%images;]> rbbr-0004 Journal of a voyage to Brazil, and residence there, during part of the years 1821, 1822, 1823.: a machine-readable transcription. rbbr Selected and converted.American Memory, Library of Congress.

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Plate I. Val Longo, or Slave Market at Rio..to front the Title Page 6

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LONDON: PRINTED FOR LONGMAN, HURST, REES, ORME, BROWN, AND GREEN, AND J. MURRAY, ALBEMARL.STREET. 1824

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PREFACE 9

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INTRODUCTION 15

INTRODUCTION. SKETCH OF THE HISTORY OF BRAZIL. I JUDGEn it necessary to prefix the following sketch of the history of Brazil to the journal of my voyage thither, in order that the political events to which I was an eye-witness might be the better understood. The early part of the history is almost entirely taken from Mr. Southey. It would have been easy for me to have referred to the Portuguese authors, as I have read nearly all that are to be found in print of Mr. Southey's authorities, and some that he does not mention; but Mr. Southey had been so faithful as well as judicious in the use he has made of his authors, that it would have been absurd, if not impertinent, to have neglected his guidance. From the time of the King's arrival in Brazil, or rather of his leaving Lisbon, I am answerable for all I have stated: it is little, but I hope that little is correct. The circumstances of Spanish and Portuguese America were very different in every stage. In Mexico, in Peru, in Chili, the con- querors encountered a people civilised -and humane; acquainted with many of the arts of polished life; agriculturists and mechanics; knowing in the things belonging to the altar and the throne, and waging war for conquest and for glory. But the savages of Brazil were hunters and cannibals; they wandered, and they made war for food: few of the tribes knew even the cultivation of the mandioe, and fewer still had adopted any kind of covering, save paint and feathers for ornament. The Spanish conquests were more quickly B

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* The hal with the pictres of the viceroys was filled: there would be no room in it for Lacera. This prophecy was recorded by Garelaso e la Vega; nod it is said, that the copies of his Inas were bought up, and am edition printed, omitting the prophecy.

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But in Brazil, what was once gained was not likely to be lost by' the efforts of the natives, or at least by any recollection of their's, pointing to a better or more glorious time. They have been either exterminated, or wholly subdued. The slave hunting, which had been systematic on the first occupation of the land, and more especially after the discovery of the mines, had diminished the wretched Indians, so that the introduction of the hardier Africans was deemed necessary: they now people the Brazilian fields; and if here and there an Indian aldea is to be found, the people are wretched, with less than Negro comforts, and much less than Negro spirit or in. dustry. Hence, while the original Mexicans and Peruvians form a real and respectable part of the assertors of the independance of their country, along with the Creole Spaniards, the Indiass are no- thing in Brazil; even as a mixed race, they have less part among the different casts than in the Spanish colonies; and therefore jea- lousies among the Portuguese themselves could alone at this period have brought affairs to their present crisis. These jealousies have taken place, and though they did not arise principally out of the causes of the emigration and return of the Royal family, they were at least quickened and accelerated by them. In 1499, Brazil was discovered by Vicente Yaiez Pincon, a native of Palos, and one of the companions of Columbus. He and his brothers were in search of new countries, and after touching at the Cape de Verd Islands, he steered to the south-west, till he came to the coast of Brazil, near Cape St. Augustine, and coasted along as far as the river Maranham, and thence to the mouth of the Oronoon. He carried home some valuable drugs, precious stones, and Brazil wood; but had lost two of his three ships on the voyage. He made no settlement, but had claimed the country for Spain. Meantime Pedro Alvarez Cabral was appointed by Emanuel, King of Portugal, to the command of a large fleet, destined to follow the course of Vasco de Gama in the east. Adverse winds, however, drove the expedition so far to the westward, that it fell in with the coast of Brazil, and the ships anchored in Porto Seguro on Good- B 2

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l I te nau amlmau ~ OL& ........ U . ..... rt .......... in collecting volunteers for his new colony; sixty fidalgoes and men of the royal household accompanied him. The adventurers had a prosperous voyage. On their arrival they built a fort, which they called N. S. da Victoria, and established four sugar-works. - Coutinho returned to Lisbon for recruits and implements for mining, the settlers having now obtained some indications of gold and jewels to be found in the country. The adjoining captaincy of Porto Seguro was given to Pedro de Campo Tourinho, a nobleman and a navigator. He sold his posses- sions at home, and raised a large body of colonists, with which he established himself at Porto Seguro, the harbour where Cabral had L: It

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first taken possession of Brazil. The history of the settlement of Porto Seguro, like that of all the others, is stained with the most atrocious cruelties; not such as soldiers in the heat of war commit, but cold calculated cruelties, exterminating men for the sake of growing canes, so waiting patiently for thefruit of crime.* RIheo, so called from its principal river, which has three islands at the mouth, was settled by Jorge de Figueredo Correa, who had a place in the treasury, under Joam III., between 1531 and 1540, and speedily became flourishing, being remarkably favourable to the sugar culti- vation. Bahia de Todo os Santos was, with its adjacent territory, given to Francisco Pereira Coutinho, a fidalgo who had made himself a name in India. He fixed his abode at Villa Velha, where Caramuru had formed his little settlement, and two of his followers married the daughters of Caramuru. The bay, or reconcave of All Saints, is a magnificent harbour: the entrance appears to be a league in breadth; but on the right hand, on entering, there is a shoal dangerous to large vessels, called that of St. Antonio da Barre; and on the left, coral reefs running off from Itaporica The country that surrounds it is so fertile, that it must always have been an object of desire whether to savage or civilised inhabitants; and it is not surprising that three revolutions, that is, three changes of indwellers, driven out by each other, should have been, in the memory of the Indians, before the settlement of Coutinho. That nobleman, whose early life had been passed in the East-Indian Portuguese wars, imprudently and cruelly disturbed the peace of the rising settlement, by the murder of a son of one of the chiefs. The I hope the folowig tale is not true, though my authority is good. In thi very captainey, within these twenty years, an Indian tribe had been so troublesme, that the Capitam M6r resolved to get rid of it It ws attacked, but defended itself s bravely, that the Portuguese resolved to desist from open warfare; but with unnatural ingenuity exposed ribnd. and toys infected with smallpox matter in the places where the poor sages were likely to find them: the pla succeeded. The Indians were so thinned, that they were easily overome

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INTRODUCTION. 11 under Don Pedro de Mendoza, who founded Buenos Ayres, had begun to settle on the shores of the Plata, not without opposition from the Portuguese, and a more obstinate and fatal resistance from the Indians. The tribes in this neighbourhood appear to have been more civilised than those of the coast of Brazil, and consequently more formidable enemies to the rising towns. Orellana had also made his daring voyage down the mighty river that is sometimes called by his name. He had afterwards perished in an attempt to make a settlement on its shores, and nearly the same fate had attended Luiz de Mello da Silva, who made a similar attempt on the part of Portugal. Cabeza de Vacca had also made his adventurous overland journey from St. Catherine's, and after settling himself in the goven- ment of Assumption, had conducted various expeditions of dis- covery, always in hopes of finding an easy way to the gold countries. In one of these he found traces of the adventurer Garcia, a Portuguese, who,. under the orders of Martim Affonso de Souza, had, with five companions, undertaken to explore the interior of South America. This man had by some means so conciliated the Indians, that he was followed by a very considerable army, and is said to have penetrated even into Tarija. He is believed to have perished by the hand of one of his own followers, but no particulars were ever known of his fate. During the next ten years, nothing remarkable occurred with re- gard to Brazil, except the founding of the city of St. Salvadors, by Thome de Souza, the first Captain General of Brazil, who carried outwith him the first Jesuit missionaries. For the site of his new town De Souza fixed upon the hill immediately above te deepest part of the harbour of Bahia, which is defended at the back by a deep lake, and lies about half a league from the Villa Velha of Coutinho and Caramuru. The temporal concerns of the new colony, derived inestimable advantage from the friendship and assistance of the patriarch Cara- muru: as to the spiritual, it was indeed time that some rule of faith and morals should find its way to Brazil. The settlers had hitherto c 2

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that no authentic accounts of cannibals have ever been brought from Africa; whereas, none of the early writers on Brazil and its inhabi- tants have failed to dwell upon their love of human flesh, as charac- teristic of the people. The year 1552 is distinguished by the arrival of the first bishop in Brazil. His see was fixed at St. Salvador's, or, as it is generally called, Bahia. In the next year, Thome de Souza retired from his govern- ment, and was succeeded by Don Duarte da Costa, who was accom- panied by seven jesuits, among whom was the celebrated Anchiets.* The chief of the order, Loyola, was still alive, he erected Brazil into a new province, and appointed Nobrega and Luis de Gran, who had been principal at Coimbra, joint provincials. From that moment the labours of the fathers for the real good of the country commenced. And whatever may be the opinions entertained,. as to their politics and ultimate views, there is not a doubt but that the means they employed to reclaim and civilise the Indians, were mild, and there- fore successful; that while they wrought their own purposes, they made their people happy; and that centuries will not repair the evil done by their sudden expulsion, which broke up the bands of hu- manised society which were beginning to unite the Indians with their fellow creatures. In 1553, the first school was established in Brazil, by Nobrega, in the high plains of Piratininga, about thirteen leagues from the colony of San Vicente. Anchieta 'was the school-master. The school was opened on the feast of the conversion of St. Paul, and the establishment, and the infant colony rising round it, received the *Anhieta was not only amanof eraordinary firmnles of mind and real piety, but a politician of no Ocmmon cast, and his civil aervies to the Portuguese government were qual to oe of the greatest captains, while his labours as a missionry and teacher were beyond those of any individnal of whom I have ever read. His merito s a a hist apostle and a man of literatore, have disamed even Mr. Southey of his osual rancour against the Roman Catholic faith. That t t writer' book on Brail is spoilt by intemperate language on a subject on which human feeling I least patient of direct cn- tradiction, so that the general circultion of it is rendered impossible, and the good it migl otherwise do in the country for which it is written fustrated. Oh, that Mr. Southey would remember the quotation which he himself brings forward from Jereary Taylor! Zeal against an error is not always the best instrment to find out truth."

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* MamTaluc. These were the Creole Portuguese, who had most of them interarried with the naties.

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* Among these w Jean de Lery.

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easy to re-establish and perhaps revenge himself. But his bad faith deterred the Hugonots from joining him, the civil war prevented the government from assisting him, and the French colony was lost In 1564, Estacio de Sa, nephew of Mem, was sent out from Por- tugal to form a settlement in Rio, but finding his means inadequate to contend with the Indians, led on by the few remaining French, he went to San Vincente for reinforcements; these, however, only enabled him to keep up the war,- and to maintain himself in a post he had fortified *, not far from the entrance of the harbour, and near the Sugar-loaf mountain, a bare and inaccessible rock, which, from' a base of about four hundred feet, shoots up to a thousand in perpendicular height, on the west side of the bar. He therefore applied to his uncle for succour, who, collecting what force he could, led them in person, and arrived in the harbour on the 18th of January, 1567. On the 20th, St. Sebastian's day, the Indians and French were attacked in their strongest hold, then called Urayumiri, and having obtained a decisive victory, the French embarked in the four ships they still possessed, and fled to the coast of Pernambuco, where they attempted to form a settlement at Recife, but were dislodged by the Portuguese of Olinda. Mem de Sa now founded the city of St. Sebastian, more commonly called the city of Rio; and for its security the Jesuits, with their Indians, fortified both sides of the entrance to the harbour, which is about four miles distant from the city across the bay. Before these works, however, or the walls of the town were completed, the French made a vigorous effort to disturb the rising colony; but it ended in their defeat, and their guns were made use of to fortify the mouth of the harbour. Driven from Rio, the French attempted to form a settlement at Paraiba the next year; but the Indians, with the Jesuits at their head, Mr. Southey says this spot is called Villa Velhs. But there is no plaoe existing in the neighbourhood of that name, nor coul d I fiany person at Rio de Janeiro who remembered uch a place. It a, however, most probably on the site of the present St. Joan, or of the fort of Prays Verelha, which anwers exactly to the description. D

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kingdom for ever to his crown, offered Brazil, with the title of King, to Braganza if he would give up his claim to the crown of Portugal. But it was reserved for his descendant to achieve the independence of Brazil, and he refused it. The colony was at this period most flourishing, though not alto. gether able to do without occasional supplies from the mother country. But already the original mud-cottages, supported by frame. work and thatched with palm-leaves, of the first settlers, had given way to well built and handsome houses of stone and brick, covered with tiles as in Europe. The reconcave of Bahia had sixty-two churches, and upwards of seventy sugar-works: the land was well stocked with cattle, all the kinds of orange and lime trees introduced by Europeans had flourished. The country abounded in excellent native fruits, and the mandioc furnished never-failing stores of bread. Olinda partook of all these advantages, and was itself the best built and most populous town in Brazil. Rio de Janeiro had become a place only inferior in importance to the other two, its natural advan- tages being still greater, and the climate milder; nor were the other captaincies less prosperous. But the transfer of the crown into foreign hands changed the aspect of affairs in Brazil. Inferior to the Spanish American countries in mines, it was considered only of consequence as being occupied by Spanish subjects, and so forming a barrier against the intrusion of other nations. By this time the English had begun to trade on the coast of Brazil, and in 1577 Drake had passed through the Straits of Magellan in his memorable voyage round the world. His appearance in the southern seas alarmed Philip the Second, now King of Portugal as well as of Spain, and consequently Lord of Brazil. He attempted to form a colony and maintain a fort in the Straits, in order to prevent future navigators from passing; but of it nothing is left but the name, Port Famine, which attests the miserable fate of the colonists. The English commerce was also cut off in Brazil. Some vessels trading peaceably at San Vincente: were attacked in the harbour by the n2

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Every precaution was taken against him by the governor. Four large slips with men and artillery were placed to intercept him; but in his single ship, the rest of his squadron not being able to come up with him, ran in between two of them, sunk one, and compelled several others to strike: his own ship, however, grounded, and he burnt her. He added four ships to his own fleet, loaded four others with prize-goods, and burnt the rest. 'Nor was this his only success; for although the Dutch had been baffled in several attempts on the coast, they sent hpme prizes enough to be of national importance. But a conquest of infinitely more consequence was shortly made; that of Olinda, which, in 1630, was taken after a feeble resistance on the part of Matthias de Albuquerque. The Dutch general-in-chief was Henrik Loncq, the admiral was Peter Ardian, and Wardenburg commanded the troops. The latter landed at Pao Amarello, three leagues to the north, while the ships kept up a regular fire opposite to the place; consequently the Portuguese were surprised, and the towns and forts easily taken. But the country around continued to be the theatre of a most cruel predatory war, during which atrocious cruelties were committed by both parties, but chiefly by the Dutch; and while these things were going on, a number of negroes had escaped from time to time into the great palm-forests, about thirty leagues inland, and had multiplied so that they are said to have amounted to upwards of thirty thousand. These men were governed by a chief whom they called Zombi: they had some laws, a shadow of the Christian religion, and were agricul- turists. They harassed the Portuguese, and added, by their depre. dations to the general misery. At length the Dutch government sent out Count Maurice of Nassau, to take the command at Pernambuco. He arived in 1587, and carried on the war so vigorously that the Portuguese retired out of the province. He also set about reforming the abuses which existed among the Dutch themselves at Recife, and having estab- lished himself firmly there, he sent one of his officers, Jan Koin, over to the coast of Africa, who took possession of St. Jorge da Mina, by

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* The following is ml etract from one of the letters of thi Creole Negro: " Faltamo a obediena, qu.e nos oCupov no certm de Bahia, por naS faltardmo a obrigasoen d patr ; peitando primeiro as leys d nalurea, que as do imperio." Casrioto Lisana.i

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I5TRODUCNON. 29 unwearied labour and great sacrifices. Their conduct on the re- storation of Portugal had evinced a desire of more than the freedom of a colony, and their neighbours were little less disposed for inde- pendence than themselves. Santos, and even Rio, had joined them, and had shewn a disposition to depose the governor appointed by the crown and nothing but the unimpeachable character and firm conduct of Salvador Correa de Sae Benevides (1658) prevented him from falling a sacrifice to that disposition. Bahia continued to be the capital of the Brazilian states, and its inhabitants proceeded to beautify it with churches, and convents, and nunneries, while they defied the spirit of Christianity by the importation of African, as well as the kidnapping Indian slaves. Pernambuco was still undergoing the miserable effects of the long and desultory war it had sustained; all the bands of government had been loosed during that disastrous period; law and justice had fallen into disuse; and had there not been a redeeming virtue in the free spirit that lived on in spite of the evils among which it had sprung, its very emancipation from a foreign power might have been regretted. The negroes who had escaped to the Palmares, and whose depredations had been disre- garded in comparison with the evils of a foreign government, had be- come a real source of ill to the Pernambucans. Although they cul- tivated maize, and mandioc, and plaintains, they wanted every other supply. They therefore robbed the Creoles of their cattle, their sugar, their manufactured goods, and even of their Mulatto daughters and female slaves; till at length the government resolved to free the country of them, and called in the aid of a Paulista regiment for the purpose. Ten thousand of the negroes bearing arms had assembled in their chief city, which was surrounded by wooden walls, leaving the lesser ones uninhabited. But their enemies had the advantage of cannon against them, and of supplies of every kind; yet once the negroes beat off their assailants. But numbers overpowered them, and being weakened by famine, their city was forced, and the inmates seized as slaves. Zombi, however, and the most resolute of his fol- lowers, threw themselves from a high rock when they perceived their

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and forty miles from the city, and thence e marched upon it with about one thousand marines. The governor, Francisco Castro de Moraes, made no attempt to stop- him until his arrival at the city. There the first check the enemy met was from F. Francisco de Menezes, a Trinitarian friar, who appeared every where, and did what the governor, who remained quietly intrenched in a flat space, where the place of the Rosario now is, between two hills, ought to have done. The French having divided, one party attacked the palace, but the students of the college defended it successfully; and after a short, but desperate struggle, the French were overpowered, and the victory disgraced by the inhuman conduct of the Portuguese. Du- clerc and his people were imprisoned and harshly treated. Duclerc himself is said to have been murdered in his bed. The neit year drew on Rio de Janeiro a signal punishment for these proceedings. The famous Duguay Trouin undertook to inflict it; and accordingly, in August, 1711, one year after Duclerc's adventure, he arrived off the coast, and taking advantage of a fog, entered the bay, notwithstanding the fire of the forts. The Portuguese government had notice of his design, and had sent out stores and ammunition to meet the attack, and had ap- pointed Gasper da Costa commander of the troops. But the sud- den appearance of the French actually within the harbour, seems to have palsied the understanding of every person on shore, whose business it should have been to oppose them, and the forts and the city were given up almost without a struggle. It would; however, have been impossible for the French to main- tain themselves in Rio; therefore Duguay Trouin, after refreshing his people, ransomed the city for 600,000 cruzadoes. Bad weather alone prevented him from laying waste the reconcave of Bahia, as he had done Rio: but he had fulfilled the ostensible purpose of his voyage by avenging the treatment of Duclerc and- his people, and returned to France early in 1712. These cireunstances had awakened the greatest anxiety on account of Brazil in the cabinet of Lisbon: and at the peace of Utrecht, 1713,

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were horrible, their oppressions atrocious; but let them have justice: the stimulus was great; urged on by it, they performed great things, they braved cold, and hunger, and fatigue, and persecution, and death; they persevered, :they opened the way to unknown lands; they laid the foundations for future civilisation in countries which will have reason to bless their discoveries, when the effect of their evil deeds, as well as the memory of the brutal customs of the savages they so unjustly oppressed, shall have passed away. But I have neither space nor inclination to follow their adventures, and must refer to Mr. Southey's elaborate and excellent account of them. Daniel Defoe alone could have so handled the subject as to make delightful so dull and so sad a tale. I am but a looker on to whom the actions of the present are more interesting than the past, but yet am not insensible to the influence that the elder days have had upon us. Pernambuco had during the half century which had elapsed since the expulsion of the Dutch hadtime to recruit. The sugar plantations had reappeared, and the commerce of Recife had become extremely important The merchants, and especially those from Europe, had settled there, and the town had increased till it became the second of Brazil; while Olioda gradually declined, having few inhabitants besides priests and the representatives of the old families of the pro- vince, who might be called its nobility: still Recife was but a village until, in 1710, it solicited and obtained the royal assent to its becoming a town, and having a camera or municipal council to govern its in- ternal affairs. The jealousy of the people of Olinda and the other old Brazilians was violently excited by this concession, which they conceived would raise the plebeian traders and foreigners to an equality with themselves. After several tumultuous meetings on the subject, three of the ten parishes belonging to Olinda were assigned to Recife, and the governor, fearing to set up the pillar which marks a township openly, had it erected in the night. Fresh disturbances ensued, in which some of the magistrates were con- cerned, and there were not wanting voices to exclaim that thePernam- F

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INTRODUCTION. a5 for a time. Its importance, however, was soon forgotten in the disturbances caused by the treaty of division between Spain and Por- tugal, which forcing the Indians who had been reclaimed to emigrate, roused them to a vigorous but short and useless resistance, which only began the evils that the Jesuit missions were destined to perish under. The Portuguese government, under the administration of Carvalho, afterwards Marquis of Pombal, had begun to attend to, and attempt to reform the abuses which existed throughout Brazil, but particu- larly in the newly founded captaincies and settlements, when the war with France and Spain broke out in 172. For a time defence against a foreign enemy superseded every other consideration. The first act of hostility in the western world was the seizing of the Por- tuguese settlement of Columbia, in the Plata, by the governor of Buenos Ayres, before the squadron despatched by the governor of Brazil, Gomez Freyre, could arrive to protect it. That squadron con- sisted of the Lord Clive, of 64 guns, an English.ship commanded by Capt. Macnamara; the Ambuscade, of 40 guns, in which Penrose, the poet, served as lieutenant; and the Gloria, of 88 guns. The Spanish ships retired before Macnamara, and he ran urderthe guns of the forts of Colonia, in order to retake the place. He had nearly succeeded in silencing the batteries, when, by accident or negligence, the ship took fire; the enemy renewed their fire; three-fourths of the crew of the Lord Clive, among which was the captain, were drowned. The other ships were nearly destroyed and obliged to retreat; but owing to the neglect of the Spaniards, they were able to refit and return to Rio. And this was the most remarkable action of the war beyond the Atlantic, and the first in which the English distinguished them- selves in the defence of Brazil. Pombal, meantime, having resolved on the suppression of the order of Jesuits, overlooked, in the ardour with which he pursued that measure, the important services they had rendered, and were daily rendering, to one of his favourite objects, namely, the improvement of the condition of the Indians. Their plan of discipline, indeed, 2

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under their unmerited sufferings forms not the least honourable trait in their chacter. The history of Brazil, for the next thirty years, is composed of the mismanagement and decay of the Jesuit establishments ; the en- largement of the mining districts, particularly in the direction of Mato Grosso; some disputes with the French on the frontier of Cayenne; and the more peaceful occupations of opening roads, and the introduction of new branches of commerce, and the improve- ment of the old. This tranquillity was foi a moment interrupted by a conspiracy in the province of Minas Geraes, headed by an officer named Joaquim Jose de Silva Xavier, commonly called Tiradentes. The project of the conspirators was to form an independent republic in Minas, and, if possible, to induce Rio de Janeiro to unite with it. But their measures were most inadequate for the end proposed, and their con- duct so imprudent, that, although there was a pretty general feeling of discontent on account of the taxes and some other grievances, the conspirators were all seized before they had formed anything like a party capable of resistance, much less of beginning the meditated revolution. The direct effects upon Brazil of the first thirteen years of the revo- lutionary war in Europe were confined to some slight disputes re- garding the boundaries of the Portuguese and French Guiana, and concerning the limits of which, there was an article in Lord Corn- wallis's negotiations with France, or rather the peace of Amiens in 1802. The indirect effects were greater. Being a good deal left to' themselves, the colonists had leisure to discover what sort of culti- vation and crops suited best with the climate, and were fittest for the market; and some branches of industry were introduced, and others improved, to the great advantage of the province.. Foreign ships, and even fleets, had also begun to resort thither* : so that, though That under Sir H. Popham, on Sir D. Baird's expediti to the Cape of Good Hope, for intance, in 1805, and tha of the French admiral, Guillaumez, in 1806.

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de la Plata, nor did he ever afterwards lose sight of it. Some cir- enmstances occurred in December, 1804, to draw his attention, par. tinclarly towards the subject, inasmuch as he had intelligence that France was about to attempt to seize on one of the Spanish set- tlements on the first opportunity. But we were then at peace with Spain, and however willing to prevent such an aggression on the part of France, and to assist General Mirnda in his in- tended expedition to South America, it was impossible to co-operate with him, as he earnestly pressed the ministry to do, although the advantage to Englandof securing such a market for her manufa-e tures was clearly perceived, Among the officers who had been most confidentially consulted by Mr. Pitt, on the practicability of obtain- ing a settlment on the La Plata, was Sir Home Popham; and it was probably his knowledge of the views so long entertained by that minister, that induced him to takethe hazardous step, of leaving the Cape of Good Hope so soon after it had been occupied by the Eng- lish forces, in 1806, and taking Buenos Ayres, without orders to that effect. His immediate motive was, the intelligence he had procured, that the squadron of the French admiral, Guilaumez, had intentions of touching on the .coast of Brazil, entering the La Plata, ad ifpos- sible, seizing, or forming a settlement there; and some North Americans whom he had met, encouraged the undertaking, by ob- serving, that to throw open the ports of South America would be a common benefit to all commercial nations, but particularly to England.' In 1806, the demonstrations of hostilities against Portugl on the part of France were so evident, that Lord Roslyn was despatched thither on a special mission, in which Lord St. Vincent and General Simcoe were joined with him. His instructions from Mr. Fox, then prime minister, were to lay before the ministry of Lisbon, the imminent danger which threatened the country,and to offer assistance For the pol'i l av d er t-l .iwsh egard o the saisting Mirada o obtaining for Engld a port in Souh America, see Lord Mlville's evi- denon OD the ort m artisl oe Sir Home Poplr.

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Lisbon, he was ordered to go by sea to London, and thence to Por- tugal, but he chose to perform the journey by way of Paris, where he saw and conversed both with Napoleon and Talleyrand. There cannot be the least doubt but that he was duped by those able men. Many considered him as a traitor. But the vanity of the Conde, who always said he had gone to judge of these men by his own eyes, though it makes him weaker, makes him less wicked, and was, perhaps, the true spring of his actions. He it was who carried the measures for the detention of the English, the confiscation of their property, and the shutting the ports against English commerce: adopting, in short, the whole of the continental system. The very day before Junot was to reach Lisbon, however, a Paris newspaper, written in anticipation of the event, announced that " The House of Bra- ganza no longer reigned," and that its members were reduced to the common herd of ex-princes,&c., giving no very favourable description of them, and holding out no very flattering expectations for the future. This completely opened the Prince Regent's eyes, and he consented to that step, which D. John IV. and Don Jose had con. templated, namely, the transferring the seat of his empire to his Transatlantic possessions. This was in the month of November, 1817, but the events of that month, the most interesting that had occurred to Portugal since the revolution that had placed Braganza on the throne of his ancestors, will be best understood by the following extracts from the despatches received by the British ministry from Lord.Strangford and from Sir Sydney Smith at the time. On the 29th November, I07, HisLordship writes, after mentioning the Prince's departure forBrazil:- ( I had frequently and distinctly stated to the cabinet of Lisbon, "that in agreeing not to resent the exclusion of British commerce "from the ports of Portugal, His Majesty had exhausted the means "of forbearance; that in making that concession to the peculiar cir- "cumstances of the Prince Regent's situation, His Majesty had done "all that friendship and the remembrance of ancient alliance could "justly require; but that a single step beyond the line of modified G

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- I resolved, therefore, to proceed forthwith to ascertain " the effect produced by the blockade of Lisbon, and to propose to "the Portuguese government, as the only condition upon which *' that blockade should cease, the alternative (stated by you) either "of surrendering the fleet to His Majesty, or of immediately em- ploying it to remove the Prince Regent and his family to the Brazils."-

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"I accordingly requested an audience of the Prince Regent, together "with due assurances of protection and security; and upon receiving "His Royal Highness's answer, I proceeded to Lisbon on the 27th, "in His Majesty's sloop Confiapce, bearing a flag of truce. I had "immediately most interesting cmmunications with the court of "Lisbon, the particulars of which shall be detailed in a future des- "patch. It suffices to mention in this place, that the Prince Regent "wisely directed all his apprehensions to a French army, and all his "hopes to a British fleet: that he received the most explicit assur- ances from me that His Majesty would generously overlook those "acts of unwilling and momentary hostility to which His Royal "Highness's consent had been extorted; and that I promised to "His Royal Highness, on the faith of my sovereign, that the British "squadron before the Tagus should be employed to protect his re- "treat from Lisbon,and his voyage to the Brazils. " A decree was published yesterday, in which the Prince Regent "announced his intention of retiring to the city of Rio de Janeiro "until the conclusion of a general peace, and of appointing a regency "to transact the administration of government at Lisbon, during "His Royal Highness's absence from Europe." Sir Sydney Smith writes on the first of December the following letter to the admiralty:- " His Mjesty's Ship Hiberni, 2 leagues west of the Tagus, Dec. . 1807. $; SlB, "In a former despatch, dated 22d November, with a postscript of "the 26th, I conveyed to you, for the information of my Lords Com- "missioners of the Admiralty, the proofs contained in various docu- "ments of the Portuguese government, being so much influenced by "terror of the French arms as to have acquiesced to certain demands "of France operating against Great Britain. The distribution of the "Portuguese force was made wholly on the coast, while the land side "was left totally unguarded. British subjects of all descriptions "were detained; and it therefore became necessary to inform the 2

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48, In need qf thorough r qair (broke up at Bahia). *4, Do. Do. ( Do at Lisbon). 44, Do. Do. ( Do at Lisbon). 40, Past repair. o, Past repair. Hulk Ria.

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These were the Visconde de Rio Seco, who managed all; the Marquis de Vagos, gentleman of the bed-chomber; Conde de Redondo, who had the charge of the royal pan- tis; Manoel d. Cunha, adsiral of the fleet; the Padr Jose Eloi, who had the care of the valuabls eloging to the paiarchal church.

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INTRODUCTION. 47 Such is the picture of the hasty embarkation, given by some of the attendants on the royal family. The fleets had no sooner got off the land than they encountered a violent gale of wind, but by the 5th of December they were all collected again; on that day Sir Sidney Smith having supplied the ships with every thing necessary for their safety, and having con- voyed them to. lat. 387 47' north, and long. 14s 17' west, left them to go on under the protection of the Marlborough, Capt. Moore, with a broad pennant, the London, Monarch and Bedford.* They pro- ceeded without firther accident to the coast of Brazil, and landed at Bahia on the 21st of January, 1808.t The Conde da Ponta was at that time governor of Bahia, and is said to have been very popular4: he had married a lady of high family who was not less so, and she possessed, besides the manners of the court, a considerable portion of both beauty and talent. The reception of the royal party was rendered so agreeable to the Prince by the governor and his lady, that he remained at St. Sal- vador's a month, every day being a festival, and then left it with regret. In commemoration of the visit, a spot was cleared near the fortress of St. Peter's, and commanding a fine view over the whole of the beautiful bay, and there an obelisk was erected with an inscription, stating its purpose, and the surrounding ground was planted and converted into a public garden. But, however agreeable a residence at Bahia might have been to His Royal Highness, the place is too insecure for the purposes for which lie emigrated. If it is besieged by sea, and the smallest land * On the removal of the family of Bragan to Brzil, Sir Samuel Hood and Gneral Beresford took possession of Madeira in trust for Prtugal, till a estoration should toke place. t The Raiha de Portugal, and the Conde Henrique with the Prhcess Dowager and the younger Pincesses arrived straight at Rio, on the 15th of Janary. The Mardt de Fritas nd Gofiho arrived on the 15th at Bshia fr supplies, sailed for Rio on the 24th, and arrived on the s0th. t The Conde died in May, 1809, at the age of 3, leaving ten hildren, and an embarrassed estate.

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consisted of Don Rodriguez de Souza Continho, Don Juan d'Al- meida, the Visconde d'Anadia, and the Marquez d'Aguiar. The first measure of the court was to publish a manifesto, setting forth the conduct of France towards Portugal, from the beginning of the revolution; the efforts of the government to preserve its neu- trality; and detailing all the events which had led immediately to the emigration of the royal family. The manifesto also denied having, as the French government alleged, given any succours to the English fleet or troops in their expedition to the River Plate; and it states, that the French government having broken faith with that of Portugal, His Royal Highness considered himself at war with France, and declared that he could only make peace by consent of, and in conjunction with, his old and faithful ally the king of England; and this was all the direct interference of the Prince in the affairs of his ancient European kingdom, where a junta of five persons was appointed to govern, and where, before the end of the year (1808), the battle of Vimiera had been fought, and the conven- tion of Cintra had been signed. The first sensible effect of the arrival of the royal family in Brazil was the opening of its numerous ports *; and in the very first year (1808) ninety foreign ships entered the single harbour of Rio, and a proportional number, those of Maranham, Pernambuco, and Bahia. The effect of the residence of the court was soon felt in the city of Rio de Janeiro. It was before 1808 confined to little more than the ground it occupied when attacked by Duguay Trouen in 1712; and the beautiful bays.above and below it, formed by the harbour, were un- occupied, except by a few fishermen, while the swamps and morasses which surrounded it rendered it filthy in the extreme. A spot near the church of San Francisco de Paulo had been cleared for a square, but scarcely a dozen houses had risen round it, and am uddy pond filled up the centre, into which the negroes were in the habit of throwing all the impurities from the neighbourhood. This was now filled up. On one side of the square a theatre was begun, not inferior to those 28th January, 10s. H

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The numbers of the royal family furnished birthdays for frequent galas, the foreigners vied with the .Portuguese in their feasts, so that Rio presented a scene of almost continued festivity. On the 17th of December, the birthday of the queen, six counts were created, that is, Luiz de Vasconcellos e Souza was made Conde de Figuerio, Don Rodrigo de Souza Continhoj Conde de Linhares, the Visconde d'Anadia, Conde d'Anadia, D. Joao d'Almeida de Mello e Castro, Conde das Galveas, D. Fernando Jose de Portogal Conde d'Aguiar, and D. Jose de Souza Continho, Conde de Redondo. The Papal Nuncio, Sir Sidney Smith, and Lord Strangford*i were honoured with the order of the Tower and Sword; six English officers were named commanders of the order of the Cross, and five others were made knights of the same. The beginning of 1809 was marked by an event of some import. ance. By the treaty of Amiens, Portuguese Guiana had been given up to France, and was now, together with French Guyana and Cayenne, governed by the infamous Victor Hughes. It was long since France had been able to send out succour to these colonies. The fleets of England impeded the navigation, and the demands at home were too urgent and too great to permit much to be hazarded for the sake of such a distant possession. The court of Rio, therefore, resolved to send a body of troops under Colonel Manoel Marquez, to the mouth of the Oyapok. The English ship of war, Confiance, commanded by Captain Yeo, accompanied him, and their combined attack forced the enemy to surrender on the of 12th January. .The terms were honourable to both parties: and among the articles I pb- serve the 14th, by which it is stipulated, that the botanic garden, called the Gabrielle, shall not only be spared, but kept up in the state of perfection in which it was given up. War is so horrible, that a trait like this, in the midst of its evils, is too pleasing to be Over-looked. The rest of the year passed in Brazil in quiet though important Sir Sydney Smith bad followed the Portuguese court to Rio, les s commander of the British naval force in those seas, than at the protector of the Brans. Lord Strangford had resumed his character of ambssdodr. H2

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Souto, a bold.and;enterprising inan; who was far from being the only ecclesiastical partisan. On the 2d of May, a vigorous attack.was made on Serinhaemj by the..famous Pernambucan division.:of the south, which had'hitherto received no check; but the assailants were repulsed with.the.loss of their artillery and baggage, and a column under Martins coming up met with the same fate, on which .he drew off his people with those of the south, to the ngenio of Trapicbe. On the 6th of May they left that position, and meeting the royalists under Mello, suffered a complete defeat. Their chiefs were either killed or taken; and of the latter some were exiled, others impri- soned, and three, Jose Luiz Mendonua, Domingos Jose Martins, and the priest, Miguel Joaquim de Alameida, were hanged in Bahia. At this juncture Luiz do Rego Barreto was appointed by the government at Rio to the office of captain.general of Pernambuco. He was a native of Portugal, and had served with distinction under Lord Wellington. Of a firm and vigorous mind, and jealous of the honour of a sodier, he was perhaps too little yielding to the people and the temper of the times. The severe military punishments inflicted on this occasion certainly produced irritation, which though it did not break out immediately, was the cause of much evil afterwatds, and brought an odium upon that gallant soldier himself, from which his high character in other situations could not shield him. This year the ministry underwent a complete change. The Mar, quis d'Aguiar, who had succeeded to the Conde de Linhares, died in January, and the Conde da Barca in June; when the Conde de Palmela became prime minister, Bezerra became president of the tresury the Conde dos Arcos secretary for transmarine and naval affairs, the Conde de Funchal counsellor of state, and Don Tomas Antonio de Portogal secretary to the house of Braganza. - I cannot pretend to speak of the character or measures ofthese or any other Portuguese or Brazilian ministers. My opportunities of information were too few; my habits as a woman and a foreigner never led me into situations where I could acquire the necessary knowledge. I wish only to mark the course of events, and in as 2

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Secreiaries.Subetisti O Coronel Francisco Saraiva da Costa Refoios. O Deiembargador Joa6 Josa de Mendon9a. These persons were all anxious to retain the IKirigif Brazil. 'Most of them Brazilians, they had felt the advantage of having the seat of government fixed among themselves, and though the King's fo- reign allies and his Portuguese subjects had pressed him to return to Europe, his own dread of the Cortes of Lisbon, together with their natural desire to detain him in Brazil, produced on the fist a manifesto, describing His Majesty's affection and reliance on his Bra- zilian subjects, and stating, that he was resolved to send the Prince Don Pedro to Lisbon, with full powers to treat on his behalf with the Cortes, whom he seems to have considered as subjects in rebellion. The Prince was also to consult with the Cortes concerningthe drawing up of a constitution, and the King promised to adopt such parts of it as might be found applicable to existing circumstances

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opportunity of the assembling of the electors on the 21st of April, to choose the deputies to the Cortes, to submit to them the plan for the government of Brazil which he had laid down, in order to 2

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shocking event, however, seems to have quickened the King's re- solution to leave Brazil. That very day he made over the govern- ment of that country to the Prince, with a council to be composed of The Conde dos Arcos, Prime Minister. Conda da Louca, Minister of Interior. Brigadier Canler, Minister of War. And in case of the prince's death, the regency to remain in the hands of the Princess Maria Leopoldina. The next day the King publicly addressed the troops, recommend- ing to them fidelity to the crown and constitution, and obedience to tie Prince Regent, and as a royal boon on leaving the army, pro- mising a great increase of pay to all, and that the Brazilian officers should be put on the same footing as those of the Portuguese army. The ministers who advised this step, acted cruelly towards the government they left behind. The treasury was left empty at the King's departure, yet increase of pay beyond all precedent was promised, as well as other burdens on the prince's revenue. His Majesty published on the same day, a farewell to the inhabit- ants of Rio; and it cannot be imagined that he could leave the place which to him had been a haven of safety, during the storm in which most of his brother monarchs had suffered, without feelings of regret, if not affection. The Prince also addressed the Brazilians on assuming the govern- ment by a proclamation, which, as it sets forth his intentions, I shall give literally: "Inhabitants of Brazil; The necessity of paying attention to the general interests of the nation before every other, forces my august father to leave you, and to intrust me with the care of the public happiness of Brazil, until Portugal shall form a constitution, and confirm it. " And, as I judge it right, in the present circumstances, that all should from this time understand what are the objects of public administration which I have principally in view, I lose no time !in

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* It was flittle aail at the time. But as son as it was possible, his royal highnesss government began payments by intalments, which are stil going on, notwithstanding the total change of government. This is highly honourable.

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Brazilian troops were under arms in the city, violent jealousies had arisen between them, and it required all the authority and al the popularity of the Prince to restore order. On the morning of the 17th His Royal Highness called together the officers of both nations, and in a short speech he ordered them as soldiers, and recommended to them as citizens, to preserve the subordination of the troops they commanded, and union among those troops, bidding them remember that they had sworn to support the constitution, and that they were to trust to that for the redress of their grievances. Meanwhile the more distant provinces had acknowledged the authority of the cortes, and had sworn to support the constitution. But Maranham in its public acts took no notice whatever of the Prince, professing only to recognise the government of Lisbon. At Villa Rica, when the constitution was proclaimed, the troops refused to acknowledge the Prince, accusing him of withholding the pay promised by the King. At St. Catherine's, though the measures were less violent, yet the refusing to admit a new governor who had been sent, was decidedly an act of insubordination; but the political agitations at St. Paul's were not only of a more serious nature, but had more important results than those of any other province. The ostensible cause of the first public ferment in that city was the discontent of the Casadores at not receiving the promised augmentation of pay, which, indeed, it was not then in the power of the Prince to bestow on them. The regiment, however, took up arms on the 3d of June, and de- clared they would not lay them down until they received the pay demanded, and were proceeding to threaten the municipal govern- ment of the city, when they were stopped by the good sense, and presence of mind of their captain, Jose Joaquim dos Santos. But though the ferment was soothed for the time, it continued to agitate not only the troops, but the people, to such a degree, that the magistrates and principal inhabitants thought it necessary to take some steps at once, to rule and to satisfy them. They took ad- vantage of the occasion furnished by the assembling of the militia, L

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to the house of Jos6 Bonifacio, to install him formally as president, and thence to the cathedral where a e Deum was sung. At night the theatre was illuminated as for a gala, the national hymn was sung repeatedly; and from that moment all remained quiet in the city, and resolved to maintain the constitution, and the Prince Regent, for whom they expressed unbounded attachment. Nothing could have been so important to the interest of the Prince at that time. The Paulistas are among the most hardy, generous, and enlightened of the Brazilians. Their country is in the happiest climate. The mines of St. Paul's are rich, not only in the precious, but in the useful metals. Iron, so rich as to yield 93 per cent. and coal abound. The manufactures of that pro- vince are far before any others in Brazil. Corn and cattle are plenty there, as well as every other species of Brazilian produce. Agriculture is attended to, and the city by its distance from the sea, is safe from the attacks of any foreign power, while it is totally independent of external supplies. Unfortunately, the port of Santos presented a different scene during the first days of June. The first battalion of the Caadores assembled before the government house, and, accusing the governor and the camara of withholdingtheir pay, seized and imprisoned them, in order to force them to give the money they demanded. Several murders were committed during the insurrection, and various rob- beries, both in the houses and the ships in the harbour. Some armed vessels were, however, speedily despatched from Rio, and a detach- ment of militia from St. Paul's. Fifty of the insurgents were killed, and two hundred and forty taken prisoners; after which, every thing returned to a state of tranquillity; and as the most conciliatory mea- sures were adopted towards the people, the peace continued. The next three months were spent almost entirely in establishing provisional juntas in the different capitals. Many of the captaincies had, upon swearing to maintain the constitution, spontaneously adopted that measure. Others, such as Pernambuco, had been re- strained by their governors from doing so, until the Prince's edicts of , 2

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VIGNETTE I. That at the head of the Journal, page 77., represents two young Dragon Trees; that with a single head is twenty years old, and had not, when I saw it, been tapped for the Dragon's Blood. The other is about a century old, and the bark is disfigured by the incisions made in it two procure the gum.. to face Page 77 91 0077

back to lmoutn y a eavy gale or wlmu. Ur w-e - ruu-u-. " the llth of August, when, with colours half-mast high, on account of the death of Queen Caroline, we finally left the channel, and on the 18th about noon came in sight of Porto Santo. We passed it on the side where the town founded by Don Henry of Portugal, on the first discovery of the island, is situated, and regretted much that it was too late in the day to go in very near. it.

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midshipmen on shore to enjoy the young pleasure of walking on a foreign land. To them it was new to see the palm, the cy- press, and the yucca, together with the maize, banana, and sugar- cane, surrounded by vineyards, while the pine and chesnut clothe the hills. We mounted the boys on mules, and rode up to the little parish church, generally mistaken for a convent, called Nossa Senhora da Monte. My maid and I went in a bad sort of palankeen, though convenient for these roads, which are the worst I have seen; however, the view made up for the difficulty of getting to it. The sea with the Desertas bounded the prospect: below us lay the roadstead and shipping, the town and gardens, and the hill clothed with vineyards and trees of every climate, which deck the ashy tufa, or compact basalt of which the whole island seems to be composed. Purchas, who like Bowles, believes the story of the dis- covery of Madeira by the Englishman Masham and his dying mis- tress, says, that shortly after that event, the woods having taken fire burned so fiercely, that the inhabitants were forced out to sea to escape from the flames. The woods, however, are again pretty thick, and some inferior mahogany among it is used for furniture. The pine is too soft for most purposes. In the gardens we found a large blue hydrangea very common: the fuchsia is the usual hedge. Mixed with that splendid shrub, aloes, prickly pear, euphorbia, and cactus, serve for the coarser fences; and these strange vegetables, together with innumerable lizards and insects, tell us we are nearing the tropics. We spent a very happy day at the hospitable country house of Mr. Wardrope, and our cavalcade to the town at night was delightful. The boys, mounted as before, together with several gentlemen who had joined us at Mr. W.'s, enjoyed the novelty of riding home by torch-light; and as we wound down the hill, the voices of the mule- teers answering each other, or encouraging their beasts with a kind of rude song, completed the scene. The evening was fine, and the star-light lovely: we embarked in two shore boats at the custom- house gate, and, after being duly hailed by the guard-boat, a strange

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Plate II. Represents the Great Dragon Tree of Oratava, of which Humboldt has given so interesting an account. He saw it in all its greatness; I drew it after it had lost half it top.to face Page 85 100

lier- - -7 - wir ur - .. ;rlk L- -~~~~~~~~~~~~~"""~~"" ~ ~~

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tree in its vigour; it is now a noble ruin. In July, 1819, one half of its eaormous crown fell: the wound is plaistered up, the date of the misfortune marked o iti and as much care is taken of the venerable vegetable as will ensure it for at least another century. I sat down to .ake a keth of it; and while I was drawing, learned from Mr. Galway the following history of the family of its owner, which a little skillin language and a little adorning with sentiment might convert into a modem novel.- About the year 1760, the Marquis Franqui, upon sume diegst' made over his estates in trust to his brother, and emigrated to Fance where he remained until 1810, regularly rceiv- ing.the iproeeas fom his estates in Teneriffe. Meantime, during the early eriod of the revolution, he married and his only child, a daughter,waasboa.' This marriage, however, was only a civil con- tract, suc being then the law of Franee, and with a woman divorced from another, who was still living. But neither the validity of the union nor the legitimacy of s ehild wasver questioned- and the Marquis Franqua returning to his native eountry, brought with him his daughter, introducing and treating her as his heiress. She appeared to be reived as such by his family and at his death he appointed trustworthy guardians to her and her estates, oae of whom is her husbands father. No oner, however, was the Marquis dead, than his brother claied his property, alleging that the church had never sanctioned the Marquis's marriage, and that the daughter conse- quently, as an illegitimate child, could have no claim on his estates. He therefore comraneed a wit against her-and her guardians, and the slt p ng. Meantime thecourt receives the rents the gaie, the chefoamneat of the town, i running wild, and the house ieserted The a tsw is the slowest of growth among vegetables; it seems alo to be aowest in decay. In the lath century, that of Oratava had attained the height and sie which it boasted till 1819. It may have beea n its priee for centuries before; and scarcely less than a thousand years muhst hrv ased before it attained its fill siae Excepting the dragon trees at Madeira, the only many-

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JOURNAL: THE VOYAGE 107 0091

THE VOYAGE. 91 astronomical observations, study of history and modern languages, and nothing permitted to pass without observation, fill our time completely. Lord Bacon says, " It is a strange thing that in sea voyages, where "there is nothing to be seen but sky and sea,men should make diaries; " but in land travel, wherein so much is to be observed, for the most "part they omit it, as if chance were fitter to be registered than observ- "ation." However, for once, his lordship has only seen, or perhaps only spoken, in part. Sea and sky must be observed before we can know the laws by which their great changes or chances are regulated. Observations on the works of man, as cities, courts, &c. may be omitted, for we know their authors, and can have recourse to them, their motives, and their history, whenever we please but the great operations of nature are so above us, that we must humbly mark them, and endeavour to make their history a part of our experience, in order that we pass safely through their vicissitudes. Hence it is, that the commonest details of the early navigators, their sunkrise and sun-set, their daily portionings of food and water, are read with a deeper interest than the liveliest tour through civilised countries and populous cities; that Byron's passage through Chiloe continues to excite the most profound sympathy; while Moore's lively view of society and manners in France or Italy, are now seldom or languidly read. The uncertainty, the mystery of nature, keep up a perpetual curiosity; but I suspect that if we knew the progress and dependance of her operations, as well as we do those of an architect or brick- layer, the history of the building of a theatre or a dwelling-house might vie in interest with that of a sea voyage. The books we intend our boys to read are,-history, particularly that of Greece, Rome, England, and France; an outline of general history, voyages, and discoveries; some poetry, and general literature, in French and English; Delolme, with the concluding chapter of Black- stone on the history of the law and the constitution of England; and afterwards the first volume ofBlackstone, Bacon's Essays, and Paley. We have only three years to work in; and as the business of their life N 2

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VIGNETTE II. Part of Pernambuco, seen from Cocoa-nut Island, with in the Reef..97 113 0097

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town, and have been quite enough amused in observing the curious little boats, canoes, catamarans and jangadas, that have been sailing, and paddling, and rowing round the ship. The jangada resembles nothing I have ever seen before; six or eight logs are made fast to- gether by two transverse beams; at one end there is a raised seat, on which a man places himselfto steer, for they are furnished with a sort of rudder; sometimes the seat is large enough to admit of two sitters, another bench at the foot of a mast, immense for the size of the raft, holds clothes and provisions, or an upright pole is fixed in one of the logs, to which these things are suspended, and a large triangular sail of cotton cloth completes the jangada, in which the hardy Brazilian sailor ventures to sea, the waves constantly washing over it, and carries cargoes of cotton or other goods, or, in case of necessity, letters and despatches, hundreds of miles in safety. About three o'clock a large canoe with two patriot officers came along side, to ascertain if we were really English; if we had come, as was reported, to assist the royalists, or if we would assist them: so apt are men, under the influence of strong feeling themselves, to doubt of perfect indifference in others, that I question much whether they believed in the strict neutrality we profess. They left us, how- ever, without betraying any particular anxiety, and made a very circuitous passage home, in order to avoid the Recife cruizer, which was looking out for straggling boats or vessels of any description belonging to the patriots. Monday, the 24t.-Col. Patronhe arrived early this morning, to request that the English packet might put into Lisbon with the Go- vernment despatches. We felt glad that the strict rules of service prevented the captain from giving any such order to the master of the packet. It would be at once a breach of that neutrality we profess to observe, and, in my opinion, an aiding of the worst cause. The colonel, adverting to the town being in a state of siege,.and the un- certainty of the next attack as to time and place, advised me strongly to stay altogether on board; but I had never seen a town in a state of siege, and therefore resolved to go ashore. Accordingly, Mr. Dance, o2 3

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turned short round, and found ourselves within a marvellous natural break-water, heard the. surf dashing without, and saw the Ipray, but we ourselves were sailing along smoothly and calmly, as if in a mill-pond The rock of which the reef is formed, is said to be coral; but it isso coated with barnacle and limpet above barnacle and limpet, that I can see nothing but the remainder of these shells for many feet down, and as deep into the rock as our hammers will break. It extends from a good way to the northward of Paraiba to Olinda, where it sinks under water, and then rises abruptly at Recife, and runs on to Cape St. Augustine, where it is interrupted by the bold granite head, that shoots through it into the ocean; it then re- appears, and continues, interruptedly, towards the south.. The breadth of the harbour here between the reef and the main land varies from a few fathoms to three quarters of a mile; the water is deep close to the rock, and there the vessels often moor. There is a bar at the entrance of the harbour, over which there is, in ordinary tides, sixteen feet water, so that ships of considerable burden lie here.* His Majesty's brig Alacrity lay some time within the reef; and two feet more water on the bar, would have enabled the Doris to have entered, though, as far as I have seen, there would be no room to turn about if she wished to go out again. The reef is cer- tainly one of the wonders of the world; it is scarcely sixteen feet broad at top. It slopes off more rapidly than the Plymouth break- water, to a great depth on the outside, and is perpendicular within, to many fathoms. Here and there, a few inequalities at the top must formerly have annoyed the harbour in high tides or strong winds, but Count Maurice remedied this, by laying huge blocks of granite into the faulty places, and has thus rendered the top level, and the harbour safe at all times. The Count had intended to build warehouses along the reef, but his removal from the government prevented his doing so. A small fort near the entrance defends it, and indeed always must, so narrow and sudden is the pas- * In 1816, under the governor, Mnte Negro, the harbour was cad re d d deepened, and particularly the bar.

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Plate III. View of Count Maurice's Gate at Pernambuco, with the Slave Mart. 124

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PERNAMBUCO. 109 believing that implicit obedience is due both to king and priests Brandy is the bribe for which they will do any thing; a dram of that liquor and a handful of mandioc flour being all the food they require when they come down to the port. This evening, as there are no horses to be hired here, we borrowed some from our English and French friends, and rode to Olinda by the long sandy isthmus, which connects it with Recife. This is the isthmus fortified with a palisade, by Sir John Lancaster, during his stay at Recife, which he plundered. The beach is defended by two castles, sufficiently strong when their situation is considered; on one side a furious surf breaking at their base, on the other a deep estuary and flat ground beyond, so that they cannot be commanded. The sand is partially covered by shrubs; one is very splendid with thick leaves and purple bell-shaped flowers; many are like those of the eastern world; many are quite new to me. I was surprised at the extreme beauty of Olinda, or rather of its remains, for it is now in a melancholy state of ruin. All the richer inhabitants have long settled in the lower town. The revenues of the bishopric being now claimed by the crown, and the monasteries suppressed for the most part, even the factitious splendour caused by the ecclesiastical courts and inhabitants is no more. The very college where the youths received some sort of education, however imperfect, is nearly ruined t, and there is scarcely a house of any size standing. Olinda is placed on a few small hills, whose sides are in some directions broken down, so as to present the most abrupt and pictur- esque rock-scenery. These are embosomed in dark woods that seem coeval with the land itself: tufts of slender palms, here and there the broad head of an ancient mango, or the gigantic arms of the wide spreading silk-cotton tree, rise from out the rest in the near Se Introduction, p. 20. t This was the Jesuits' college founded under the administratio of the admirable father Nobregs, and his companion De Gram. Here at eighteen years' old the celebrated Viera read ctures on rhetoric, and osed those commentaries on some of the classics, which were unfortunately lost in the coure of the civil wars.

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castles on our way back to the fort. The dogs had already begun their work of abomination. I saw one drag the arm of a negro from beneath the few inches of sand, which his master had caused to be thrown over his remains. It is on this beach that the measure of the insults dealt to the poor negroes is filled. When the negro dies, his fellow-slaves lay him on a plank, carry him to the beach, where beneath high-water mark they hoe a little sand over him; but to the new negro even this mark of humanity is denied. He is tied to a pole, carried out in the evening and dropped upon the beach, where it is just possible the surf may bear him away. These things sent us home sad and spiritless, notwithstanding the agreeable scenes we had been riding among. 29th. The feast of St. Michael's has drawn out the Portuguese gentlewomen, of whom we had not yet seen one walking in the streets. The favourite dress seems to be black, with white shoes and white or coloured ribbons and flowers in the hair, with a mantle of lace or gauze, either black or white. We have seen a few priests too for the first time. I think the edict desiring them to keep within their convent walls, is in consequence of their being among the fomentors of the spirit of independence. The appropriation of so much of the church revenue by the court of Lisbon is of course unpopular among the clergy of the country; and it is not difficult for them to represent, what indeed is truth, to the people, that the drawing of so much treasure from the country to support Lisbon, which can neither govern nor protect them now, is a rational ground of complaint. It is said, that the morals of the clergy here are most depraved. This is probably true. Men cut off by vows like those of the Roman clergy, from the active charities of social life, have only the resources of science and literature against their passions and vices. But here the very names of literature and science are almost unknown. The college and library of Olinda are in decay. There is not one book- seller in Pernambuco, and the population of its different parishes amounts to 70,000 souls! A tolerably well written newspaper, of which I have not been able to procure the first number, was set up in

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PERNAMBUCO. 113 Our welcome was most cordial. His excellency took one end of the table, and an aide-de.camp the other: I was seated between M. and Madame do Rego. He seemed happy to talk of his old English friends of the Peninsula, with many of whom I am acquainted; and she had a thousand enquiries to make about England, whither she is very anxious to go. They apologised for having so little plate, but their handsome services were packed up in an English store-house, together with her excellency's jewels and other precious things. The cookery was a mixture of Portuguese and French. After the soup, a dish was handed round of boiled lean beef, slices of fat salt pork, and sausages, and with this dish, rice boiled with oil and sweet herbs. Roast beef was presented, in compliment to the English, very little roasted. Salads, and fish of various kinds, were dressed in a peculiar manner; poultry and other things in the French fashion. The dessert was served on another table. Besides our European dessert of fruit, cakes, and wine, all the puddings, pies, and tarts, formed part of it. It was decorated with flowers, and there was a profit- sion of sugar-plums of every kind. The company rose from the dining. table; and adjourned to the other, which Madame do Rego told me should have been spread in a separate apartment; but they have so recently taken possession of their house, that they have not one yet fitted up for the purpose. The governor and his guests proposed many toasts alternately-The King of England,theKing of Portugal,the navy of England, the King of France *, Luis do Rego, and the captaincy of Pernambuco,&c.- When we all rose at once from table; some of the company went on board ship, but most adjourned to the drawing- room, a comfortable apartment, furnished with blue satin damask, where we were joined by the French naval officers of His Most Christian Majesty's ship Sappho, and several ladies and gentlemen of the city. We had some excellent music. Madame do Rego has an admirable voice, and there were several good singers and players on the piano. It was a more pleasant, polished evening than I had ex- pected to pass in Pernambuco, especially now in a state of siege. Mr. Lain, the very pleasing and gentlemanlike French onsul was present.

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The Capabaribe has a course of about fify league but is only navigable to about si mrile fm the sea, on account of rapids and flls in the upper part; it has two mouths, oe at Recife, ad the other at Os Affogados. Chor. Br. Q2

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PERNAMBUCO. 119 reasonably stigmatised as such, for he had fired on that banner. He then went off into a long harangue upon the general principles of government; but as I understood little of the language, much of it was lost upon me, as well as on my companions; but I have no doubt that it served to impress the respectable junta with a higher idea of their secretary's understanding and eloquence: altogether, the speech reminded me of some of the best written of the Carbo- nari addresses of Italy and thee was something in the air, manner, and scene, not unlike what one imagines of the Barraca meetings of those ill-guided; misused people.* We then talked a great deal in French to the secretary, who repeated..every word to the respectable junta, and at length got him to attend to:a proposal for releasing our linen, and another for supplying the ship with fresh provisions. We had been paying forty dollars per bullock in the town; they agreed that their price should not exceed ten, if we sent boats to the Rio Doce, or Paratije t for them. This is the mouth of a small stream on the northaide of Olinda. And I must not omit to mention, that they offered to allow us to take off fresh provisions for our English or French friends in the town. The junta was extremely anxious to learn if there was a probability of England's acknowledging the. independence of Brazil, or if she took part at all in the struggle; and many were the questions, and very variously were they shaped, which the secretary addressed to us on that head. They are of oarse violent in their language eon- ceming Luis do Rego, in proportion as he has done his military I regret exceedingly that I was then so ignorant of the langage. I have since leared that there were many causes of particuar griance in this province. I do no mse to spea disrespetfilly of the poplar meetirg of Brazil; they had all hirview the best objects, national indepedn divil liberty under retfoed la ws. The srst oh. ject has been secured to them by their contittional emperor, the last is growing up nder his goverment; time only can perfect it. Happy wonld it have bee for Italy, if its popular meetings had possessed the mild charater of those of Brzil, and still hap- pier, had they found in their prince a defender ad protector. t At Rio Doce, Brito Frire and Pedro Jaques landed to assist Vieyr in the recovery of Pernamnsbuo. See p. 5. of the Introduction.

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our ride, a hearty supper, and a little concert closed the day, which, upon the whole, was to me a moat agreeable one. Thursday, 4th.-Receiyed Madame do Rego, one of her daughters, Miss S., and several gentlemen, on board. Most of the party were sea-sick, from the rolling of the ship, caused by the heavy swell at the anchorage. They were, however, highly charmed with their visit, particularly with the fireworks with which we saluted the ladies, who had never been on board a British frigate before, on their departure. Friday, 5th. - According to the agreement made with the patriot officers, on Wednesday, one launch and the second cutter went to Rio Doce to receive bullocks and other provisions. The officers and men were most kindly received, and returned with many presents of fresh stock and vegetables, which the patriots forced upon them. A mili- tary band attended them on landing, and conducted them to the place of meeting with the chiefs. Messrs. Biddle and Glennie, being on shore surveying, near Cabo de Sant Augustin*, were detained as prisoners for a few hours, by a patriot detachment; but, as it appeared to be only for the purpose of.obtain- ing money, and done by some subaltern, no notice was talen of it. Saturday, 6th -The frigate got underweigh to take a cruiae, and if possible find a quieter anchorage. Mr. Dance with a party went for more provisions, to Rio Doce. The surf at the landing place was so high, that they were obliged to get into canoes, and leave the boats grappled at some distance from the beach. A guard of honour and military band attended them, as on the former day, and they were, moreover, pressed to dine with the commander of the post, which they gladly did. The diningroom was a long hut, built of wood and plaited palm leaves. In the centre, was a long table spread with a clean and very handsome cloth. The few chairs the place afforded were appropriated to the strangers, and the rest of the company stood during the meal. To the strangers, also, were given the spoons and forks, but the want of them did not appear to incom- The esternmost lad of Soath Ameica. It h to little harbors, for sma vessels, each of which is defended by a sl fort, sad has . celebrated chapel to or Lady of Nazareth. n

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Monday, 8th. -We find to-day, on anchoring, that term have been entered into with the patriots, by which their deputies are to be in the council, and take an equal share in the administration, and on the other hand, they are to withdraw the investing troops, and leave Luis do Rego at the head of the military department, until the arrival of the next despatches from Lisbon. These pacific measures were brought about by the Paraiban deputies whom we met on Wednesday. Tuesday, 9th. -Mr. Dance, Mr. Glennie, and l,were deputed to take charge of a large party of midshipmen, who had not been able before to take a run on shore, to spend the day on Cocoa-nut Island, which lies a good way up the harbour, and within the reef of Pemambuco. As we sailed along the rock, we observed that it is covered with echini, polypii, barnacles, limpets, and crusted with white bivalves less than oysters or cockles, yet containing a fish not unlike the latter in appearance, and the former in flavour. We had not exactly calcu- lated the effect of the tide so far up the harbour as Cocoa-nut Island, consequently we got aground in the outer channel, at a considerable distance from the shore. The sailors pushed me over one fat bank in the gig, and then carried me to the beach; the midshipmen waded, and the officers and boats with the crews, went in search of a deeper passage, where they might approach with our provisions. Meantime the boys and I had full leisure to examine the island. It is perfectly flat and covered with white sand ; the shore scattered with fragments of shells and coral As its name imports, it is one grove of cocoa-nut trees, excepting where the present occupant has cleared space for a market-garden and fishponds. These last are very extensive; and as they secure a supply of fish at times when the rough seas of the outer roads prevent the canoes from going out, they have answered extremely well to the speculator. The garden pro- duces European as well as Brazilian vegetables, in great perfection: Fruit-trees also thrive very well. * In the cuts for the fishponds I All the oange andlemon tribe, papas, ashew nts, melons and gourds pome- grsnats, guaas, &c. 2

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PERNAMBUCO. 125 of going all the way down the harbour, which would have kept us out beyond the time allowed us, we ran through a passage in the reef called Mother Cary's passage, because few things but the birds think of swimming there. The merchant-boat went first, our gig next, and as I sat in the stem of the large boat that was to follow, it was beautiful, but something fearful, to seethem dash through that boiling surf between the rocks and rise over the wave secure beyond it, nor was the sensation less mixed when we followed. There is at all times something triumphant in the sensation of sailing over the waters; but when they are roughened by storms, or rendered fearful by rocks or shoals, the triumph approaches to the sublime, and in it there is a secret dread, though not of ocean, and a raising of the soul to him who made the ocean, and gave man mind to master it. I am not ashamed to own, that as I looked round on my young charge, when Mr. Dance whispered " sit still and say nothing," and then stepping to the bow of the boat called aloud to the helmsman, " steady!" I had a moment, though but a moment, of exquisite anxiety. But we were through in an instant, and soon'alongside of the frigate, where we were praised for doing what few had done before, and having shown the possibility of doing that safely, which at some future time it might be of importance to know could be done at all Wednesday, loth. - We went on shore early for the first time since the armistice. The guns are removed from the streets and a few of the shops are re-opened; the negroes are no longer confined within doors, and the priests have reappeared; their broad hats and ample cloaks give them an importance among the crowd, which now is busy and active, and seemingly intent on redeeming the time lost to trade by the siege. I was struck by the great preponderance of the black population. By the last census, the population of Pernambuco, including Olinda was seventy thousand, of which not above one third are white: the rest are mulatto or negro. The mulattoes are, generally speaking, more active, more industrious, and more lively than either of the other classes. They have amassed great fortunes, in many

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* The conents are, generally speaking, the places where the more delicate preserves are made Those I bought wee of Guava, eashew apple, citron, ad lime. The cashew particlarly good. They go by the geeral name of Doc.

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to appear, and the fine oxen which draw them form no bad contrast to the half-starved bullocks of the town. 'Twas a cool evening, and the sun was just low enough to gild the edges of the palms and other tall trees, which shot up with their deep black shadows into the thin pure light, making an effect, that even Titian's landscape pencil has not reached. Our ride extended to Mr. S.'s country- house, which is, I believe, on the same plan with all the others here- abouts, and which I can only compare to an Oriental bungalow; one story very commodiously laid out, a veranda surrounding it, and standing in the midst of a little paddock, part of which is gar- den ground, and part pasture, generally hedged with limes and roses, and shaded with fruit trees, is the general description of the country sitios about Pernambuco; the difference arising from the taste of the inhabitant, or the situation of the ground, being allowed for. The low rent of these pleasant little gardens is sur- prising; but it arises in great measure from the indolence and con- sequent poverty of the holders of original grants of land here: as long as their negroes and estates maintained them, they paid no attention to the particular parts that, being 'near the town, might have been at all times productive. Now, that sugar and cotton are no longer in such demand, nearly half the fazendas or factories are ruined, and such is become the indolent temper of the people, that rather than seek to redeem their estates, they will take the smallest annuity for a portion. On our way to the sitio, we stopped at a kind of public-house or venta; it is like an nglish huckster's, and contains a little of every thing, cloth and candles, fruit and lard, wine and pimento, which are retailed at no very extravagant profit to the poor; the draught wine is really good, being port of excellent quality, without the quantity of brandy which the English market requires. By the time we repassed it on our way home, many a negro was spending his day's savings, and becoming as happy as wine could make him; and many a traveller was regaling himself with bread, garlic, and salt, and preparing to spread his mat, and lie down in the open air for the night. Night within the tropics is always a gayer and more peopled

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VIGNETTE III. Slaves dragging a Hogshead in the Streets of Pernambuco..131 149 0131

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t" Seaborn gales teir gelid wings expnd, To winnow fragrance round the milling land." tI·~ ,~SEager to seize the opportunity of walking out after our voyage, we accepted MisPennell's kind offer, to show us some of the surrounding countay before dinner, and accompanied her as far as the church dedicated to N. S. da Graga. It was the first offering of piety, I be- lieve, to Christian worship by a native Brazilian. When the famous Caramuru was wrecked, together with the Donatory Coutinho, on Itaparica, Coutinho was put to death; but, Caramuru, being beloved by the natives, was spared, and he returned to his old settlement of Villa Velha. His wife, Catherine Paraguaza, who had accompanied him to France, saw an apparition in the camp of the Indians, and believing it to be a real European female, Caramurn tbllowed in the direction his wife pointed out: he dis- covered, accordingly, in one of the huts, an image of N. S. da Graa; and according to the directions his wife had received from the vision, built and dedicated the church, and bestowed it, and a house by it,

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Plate IV. Gamella Tree at Bahia 154

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BAHIA; 133 on the Benedictines. It was at first of mud; but soon after was built of stone. Thursday I8th.-.We rode.out before breakfast, through landscape so fine, that I wished for a poet or a painter at every step. Some- times we went through. thick wild wood into bushy hollows; then emerged on clear. lawns, sprinkled with palm trees, through which country-houses, farms, and gardens were seen; and from every emi- nence, the bay; the sea, or the lake, formed part of the scene. Here and there the huge gamela tree* stands like a tower, adorned, be- sides its own leaves, with numberless parasite plants, from the stiff cactus, to the swinging air plantt; and the frequent tower of church and monastery soften and improve ihe features of the country. Mr.Pennell has most kindly given our young men a general invit- ation to his house; and accordingly, to-day several of them dined with him, and we had a party in the evening, when someof the ladies played quadrilles, while others danced. Friday,l9th.-I accompanied Miss Pennell in a tour of visits toher Portuguese friends. As it is not their custom to visit or be visited in the forenoon, it was hardly fir to take a stranger to see them. However, my curiosity, at least, was gratified. In the first place, the houses, for the most part, are disgustingly dirty: the lower story usually consists of cells for the slaves, stabling &c.; the staircases are narrow and dark; and, at more than one house,' we waited in a passage while the servants ran to open the doors atd windows of the sitting-rooms, and to call their mistresses, who were, enjoying their undress in their own apartments. When they appeared, I could scarcely believe that one half were gentlewomen. As they wear neither stay nor. bodice, the figure becomes almost indecently slovenly, after very early youth and this is the more disgusting, as they are very thinly clad, wear no neck-handkerchiefs, and scarcely The gamels, like the banyan, easily takes root i other trees, and its branche meet togeth ther the sme maer. It is the tree of which the caoes of Brazil are made, ad servesbeaides for troughs of sarious kinds. t Air-plait or Tiadsi, of which theare several sorts. TheTillandia Lingulsta is the Iurgest, sad agrees with Jaquin's plate; the thers are diferet from those deribed by him, and are much moe beautifl.

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BAHIA. 137 They marry very early, andsoo lose their bloom. I did not see one tolerably pretty woman to-day. But then who is there that can bear so total a disguise as filth and untidiness spread over a woman? Saturday, 20th. - As the charts of this coast hitherto published are very incorrect, the captain asked permission from government to sound and survey the bay: it is refused on the ground of policy; as if it could be policy to keep hidden rocks and shoals, for one's own as well as other people's ships. I walked through the greater part of the town. The lower part extends much farther than I could see the day I landed; it contains a few churches, one of which, belonging to the monastery of A cos-. cepfa6, is very handsome, but the smell within is disgusting; thk flooring is laid in squares with stone, and within each square there is a panelling of wood of about nine feet by six; under each panel is a vault, into which the dead are thrown naked, until, they'reach a certain number, when with a little quicklime thrown in, the wood is fastened down, and then another square is opened, and so on in rotation. From that church, passing the arsenal gate, we went along the low street, and found it widen considerably at three quarters of a mile beyond: there are the markets, which seem to be admirably supplied, especially with fish. There also is the slave market, a sight I have not yet learned to see without shame and indignation : beyond are a set of arcades, where goldsmiths, jewellers, and haberdashers display their small wares, and there are the best-looking shops; but there is a want of neatness, of that art of making things look well, that invites a buyer in England and France. One bookseller's shop, Frezier says of Baha, " Who would elieve it? there ae shops fui of those poor "wrethesf who are erpoed ther stark naked and bought like cattle, over whol the buyers have the same power; so that upon slight disgust they may kill them, almost without fer of pishment, or at t lst treat the elly heesor y peasy e. I know not bow such barbarity can be reconciled to the mains of relgion, which makes them " nmbers of the same body with the white, whe they have been baptired and raiser - them to the dignity of the sons of God-au sons ofsth MWos High " I here make this omparison, because the Portuguee are Christians who make a " great outward show of religion." - Voyage to the South Sea. w

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Part of the funds for supporting this ad other hospitals i derived from lotteies See advertisements in the diffnt Bhia newspapers. t Ja de Mats Aguiar, commonly called Joai de Mstinhos, from his dimlntive size, was the founder of this Recolhmento. He bequeathed 800,000 eruades for the retired women, 400,000 for the patients, one to each on leaving the hospital, and 400,000, dowry to 8 girls every year, at the period of the foundtion, 1716.

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probably the work of an amateur monk of the seventeenth century. The treatment of the sick is humane, and they are well provided with food and other necessaries; but the medicalpractice,though much improved of late years, is not the most enlightened. There is a great deal of jealousy of foreigners in the present government, hence I was not able to enter many of the public build- ings. -The government treasury was one I was desirous to see, but there were objections. The treasury here was formerly considered as subordinate to that of Rio de Janeiro, and accordingly paid a portion of its receipts to bills drawn monthly by the treasurer in the capital, upon this, and those of the other provinces. But since the revolution of the 10th of February, the provisional government has taken upon itself to refuse payment, on the grounds that it is entirely independent of Rio, until the pleasure of the cortes at Lisbon shall be known. The revenue is derived from direct taxes on land and provisions, excise upon exports and imports, and harbour dues. Land is subject to a tax of one-tenth of the whole of its produce, and since the revolution, church lands are under the same law, and the clergy are paid by the government. The taxes on provisions are annually farmed out to the highest bidder: they are imposed on beef, fresh fish, farinha, and vegetables. Each parish has its separate farmer, who pays the amount of his c6ntract into the treasury, and then makes the most he can of his dues. The import and export duties are paid at the custom-house, between which and the treasury a monthly settlement takes place. The port dues for foreign ships are 2000 reals per day, a trifle for the light house, and rather heavy charges for entering, clearing, &c Portuguese and Brazilian ships pay no anchorage, but are subject to a tonnage. We ended our perambulation of the town, by going to the opera at night. The theatre * is placed on the highest part of the city, It wa begun by the Conde da Ponte, and finished by the Condo dos Aros after the arrival of the king in Brzil. It was opened May 1 th, 1812. T2

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ever escapes pillage. In cases of riot and quarrels in the street, the colonel generally orders the soldiers to fall on with canes, and beat people into their senses. Such being the state of the police, it is, perhaps, more wonderful that murders are so few, than that-they are so many. Where there is little or no public justice, private re- venge will take its place. Sunday,2lst.-Wewent tothe English chapel, and were well pleased with the decent manner in which the service was performed. The Rev. Robert Synge is chaplain, a man of cheerful convivial manners, yet exceedingly attentive both as chaplain, and as guardian of his poorer countrymen. The chapel and clergymen are supported by the contribution fund, as are also the hospital for English sailors and others, and its surgeon, Mr. Dundas: both the hospital and chapel are under the same roof. I was surprised, perhaps unreasonably, to hear Mr. Synge pray for " Don John of Portugal, Sovereign of these "realms, by whose gracious permission we are enabled to meet and "worship God according to our conscience," or words to that effect. We were not so polite in Rome, I remember, as to pray for His Ho- liness, though it would have been but reasonable. Returning from chapel, we saw great part of the troops drawn up in inspecting order, on the little green between Buenos Ayres (the name of the hospital) and Fort Pedro. Every Portuguese is, it seems, by birth a soldier; and nothing exempts a man from military duty, but his holding a place under government. There are six corps of militia in the city of Bahia: 1st, one company of mounted gentle. men, forming the government guard of honour; 2d, one squadron of flying artillery; 3d and 4th, two regiments of whites, almost all tradespeople; 5th, one regiment of mulatoes; and 6th, one of free blacks, amounting altogether to 4000 men, well armed and equipped; but the black regiment is unquestionably the best trained, and most serviceable, as a light infantry corps. The regiments of country mili- tia, as those of Cachoera, Piaja, &c. are much stronger, and with those of the city, amount to about 15,000 men. The officers are chosen from among the most respectable families, and with the excep- tion of the majors and adjutants, who are of the line, receive no pay.

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BAHIA. 14S been disappointed of their dance, because the fiddlers, after waiting some time, went away, as they alleged, because they had not their tea early enough; however, some of the ladies volunteered to play the piano, and the ball lasted till past midnight. ' Tuesday, 28d.- I rode with Mr. Dance and Mr. Ricken along the banks of the lake, decidedly the most beautiful scenery in this beau- tiful -country; and then through wild groves, where all the splen- dours of Brazilian animal and vegetable life were displayed The gaudy plumage of the birds, the brilliant hues of the insects, the sie, and shape, and colour, and fragrance, of the flowers and shrubs, seen mostly for the first time, enchanted us, and rendered our little journey to the great pepper gardens, whither we were going, delight- ful. Every hedge is at this season gay with coffee blossom, but it is too early in the year for the pepper or the cotton to be in beauty. It is not many years since Francisco da Cunha and Menezes sent the pepper plant from Goa for these gardens, which were afterwards enlarged by him, when he became governor of Bahia. Plants were sent from hence to Pernambuco, which have succeeded in the bo- tanical garden. From the pepper gardens we rode on to a convent at the farther extremity of the town, and overlooking both the bays, above and below the peninsula of Bon fin, or N. S. da Monaerrat It is called the Soledad, and the nuns are famous for their delicate sweetmeats, and for the manufacture of artificial flowers, formed of the feathers of the many-coloured birds of their country. I admired the white water-lily most, though the pomegranate flower, the carnation, and the rose are imitated with the greatest exactness. The price of all these things is exorbitant; but the convents having lost much of their property since the revolution, the nuns are fain to make up by. the produce of this petty industry, for the privations imposed on them by the reduction of their rents. Wednesday, October 24th.--Mr. Pennell, his daughter, and a few other friends, joined us in an expedition to Itaparica*, a large island * Yay is th e Indian name Prtguees teate fertility of the island. On this iland Francesco Pereir Coutisho, the first donatry, was kilted by

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the saveaes. He had foauded his ity near the wtering place clled Villa Velha, by what is now the fort of Gambo, and not fr om the habitation of the adventurer Caramua. The first Christaa setlemet med here was in 1561, when he Jesuitsfounded an Aldea, and collecte d had bmaised some of the natieZ.

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BAHIA. 145 side of the road. The English gentlemen applied' to their Portu- guese companions to speak to her, and comfort her, as thinking she would understand them better; but they said, " Oh, 'tis only a black: let us ride on," and so they did without further notice The poor creature, who was a dismissed slave, was carried to the English hos- pital,'where she died in two days. Her diseases were age and hunger.* The slaves I saw here working in the distillery, appear thin, and I should say over-worked; but, I am told, that it is only in the distilling months that they appear so, and that at other seasons they are as fat and cheerful as those in the city, which is saying a great deal. They have a little church and burying-ground here, and as they see their little lot the lot of all, are more contented than I thought a slave could be. Sugar is the principal product of Itaparica; but the greater part of the poultry, vegetables, and fruit, consumed in Bahia, are also from the island, and lime is made here in considerable quantities from thema- drepores and corals found on the beach. This island used to furnish the neighbourhood with horses. When the English fleet and army stopped here, on the way to the Cape of Good Hope, the horses for the cavalry regiments were procured here. However, there is nothing remarkable in Itaparica but its fertility; the landscape is the same in character with that ofBahia, though in humbler style; but it is fresh and green, and pleasing. After dining in a palm-grove, and walking about till we were tired, we re-embarked to return; but the tide was unfavourable we drifted among the rocks, where Coutinho, the first founder of the colony of Bahia, was wrecked and afterwards mur- dered by the natives, and we were in consequence four hours in re. turning home. 26th, 27th, 28th, passed in pleasant enough intercourse with our · The cutom of epoing old, usls, or ick lsle, in isand of the Tyber, there " to tarve, seems to have been pretty oesmoan R ome; and whosevr recovered, after O beig so exposed had his liberty given hi, by an edit of the Emperor Claudius; where it w likewise.forbid to kiS im slav, mere for ae or sickness."--" e - my imagine what others would prctise, when it was the proted maxim of the elder Cato, to sell his superannuaed slaves for any prie, rather than maintain a useless o bnrden" -Discrses of the Popdoness of Anient Ntions. u

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athe ants. In the garde Rf vae, either the ants. In the grden at Boca,.every shrub of value, either for fruit or beauty, was so fenced, and there were seats, and water channels and porcelain flowerpots, that made me almost think myself in the East. But there is a newness in every thing here, a want of interest on account of wha has been, that is most sensibly felt At most, we can only go back to the naked savage who devoured his prisoner, and adorned himself with bones and feathers hee. In the East, imagin- ation is at liberty to expatiate on past grandeur, wisdom, and.polite- ness. Monuments of art and of science meet us at every step: here, every thing, nature herself, wears an air of newness, and the Euro- peans, so evidently foreign to the climate, and their African slaves, repugnant to every wholesome feeling, show too plainly that they are intruders, ever to be in harmony with the scene. However, Roa is beautiful, and all those grave thoughts did not prevent us from de- lighting in the fair prospect of l Hil and Iaey, foatin and fesh ahde;" nor enjoying the scent of oleander, jasmine, tuberose, and rose, although they are adopted, not native children of the soil. Of the Portuguese society here I know so very little, that it would be presumptuous to give an opinion of it. I have met with two or three well-informed men of the world, and some lively conversable women; but none of either sex that at all reminded me of the well- educated men and women of Europe. Here the state of general education is so low, that more than common talent and desire of knowledge is requisite to attain any; therefore the lever men are acute, and sometimes a little vain, feeling themselves so much above their fellow-citizens, and the portion of book-learning is small Of those who read on political subjects, most are disciples of Voltaire, and they outgo his doctrines on politics, and equal his indecency as. to religion; hence to sober people who have seen through the Eu- ropean revolutions, their discourses are sometimes disgusting. The Portuguese seldom dine with each other; when they do, it is on some great occasion, to justify a splendid feast: they meet every evening either at the play, or in private houses, and in the last case v2

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Under the house is generally a sort of cellar, in which the slaves live; and really I have sometimes wondered that human beings could exist in such. Friday, 2d Novmber. -Several of our people having yielded to the temptations of some worthless persons in the town, who induce sailors to desert in order that they themselves may profit by the premium given for the discovery of deserters, and having conse- quently swam on shore, the frigate has been moved up the har- bour as far as Bom Fim, and it is intended to take her up still higher. I am glad of the opportunity of seeing more of this beautiful bay, and shall endeavour to land on the Ilha do Medo, or the point of Itaparica, where the first adventurers from Europe underwent hard- ship that appear hardly credible in our modern days. We also wish to examine the harbour within the funil or passage between the two islands, and into which the river or creek of Nazareth, which supplies Bahia with great part of the mandioc flour consumed there, runs. Saturday, d November.-Our plan of proceeding fartherupthe har- bour is suspended for the present. The disputes between the European Portuguese and the Brazilians in the city, seem to be about to come to a crisis. Early this morning, we learned that troops were assem- bling from all quarters, and that therefore it was advisable, for the protection of the British property and the persons of the merchants, that the ship should return to her station opposite to the town. The first provisional junta has lost several of its members, two of them being gone as delegates to Lisbon, and others being absent on ac- count of ill health or disgust. The party opposing this junta talk loudly of independence, and wish at least one-half of the members of the provisional government to be native Brazilians. They also complain bitterly, that instead of redressing the evils they before en- dured, the junta has increased them by several arbitrary acts; and assert that one of the members who has a great grazing estate, has procured a monopoly, by which no man can supply the market with beef without his permission, so that the city is ill supplied. Such

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. 'AMA. 151 aent of so many juntas of government, each only accountable to the cobtes, must be a cause of internal disorder, if not of civil war; at no distant time.' Moday SAh. - A day of heavy tropical rain, which has forced both parties on shore to house their guns, and to desist for the present from all farther hostility. The governor, however, continues his ar- bitrary arrestations. It is curious how ancient authority awes men for surely it is the accustomed obedience to the name of the king, and the dread of the name of rebellion, that prevents the Brazilians, armed as they are, from resisting these things. Tuesday, Noe.bera6th.-The Morgiana, Captain Finlaison, came in from Rio de Janeiro. She belongs to the'African station, and came to Brazil about some prize business connected with the slave trade. Captain Finlaison tells me tales that make my blood run cold, of horrors committed in the French slave ships especially. Of young negresses, headed up in casks and thrown overboard, when the ships are chased. Of others, stowed in boxes when a ship was searched, with a bare chance of surviving their confinement. But where the trade is once admitted, no wonder the heart becomes callous to the individual sufferings of the slaves. The other day I took up some old Bahia newspapers, numbers of the Idade d'Ouro, and I find in the list of ships entered during three months of this year, ·Ave. Dead. 1 slave ship from Moyanbique, 25th March, with 313 180 1 do. - - 6th March 378 61 1 do. -- -- 0th May 293,. 19 1 do. - - - 29th June from Molendo, 357 102 1 do. - - -6th June 233 21 1574 S74 So that of the cargoes of these five ships reckoned thus accidentally, more than one in five had died on the.passage ! It seems the English ships of war on the African coast are allowed to hire free blacks to make up their complements when deficient

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* The neg of the Cr nation come to Sierra Leone from a great distance, and hire themselves out for any kind of labour, for six, eight, or tn moths, sometmrs for a year or two. They hase the earned enough to go home and live he idle gentleen, for at east twice that time, and then return to wor. Whm their ergagments on board men of war are fulfilled, they reeive rgular diag and crfictes.

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BAHIA. 153 was obliged to go back and change his dress before he could come. All this appears to proceed more from a want of police than any other cause. 16th.- Several of our young people and I myself have begun to feel the bad effects of exposing ourselves too much to the sun and the rain. Yesterday I was so unwell as to put on a blister for cough and pain in my side, and several of the others have slight degrees of fever. But generally speaking, the ship's company has been reniarkably healthy. Friday, I fih. - Captain Graham taken suddenly and alarmingly ill Towards evening he became better, and was able to attend to a most painful business. Last night a man belonging to the Morgiana was killed, and the corporal of marines belonging to the ship severely wounded, on shore. It appears that neither of these men had so much as seen'the murderer before. He had been drinking in the inner room of a venda with some sailors, and having quarrelled with one of them, he fancied the rest were going to seize him, when he drew his knife to intimidate them, and rushed furiously out of the robm. The young man who was killed was standing at the outer door; waiting for one of his companions who was within, and the murderer seeing him there, imagined he also wished to stop him, and therefore stabbed him to the heart Our corporal, who was passing by, saw the deed, and of course attempted to seize him, and in the attempt received a severe wound. It is said, I know not with what truth, that Captain Finlaison is so hated here, on account of his activity against the slave trade, that none of his people are safe, and the death of the unfortunate man is attributed to that cause; but it appears to have been the result of a drunken quarrel. The town, however, appears to be in a sad disorderly state: besides our two men, a Brazilian officer was dangerously wounded in the dark, and three Brazilian soldiers and their corporal were found murdered last night. Captain Graham had sent one of his officers to act for him on the occasion, and to apply through the British consul to the police x

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BAHIA. 155 there is one English merchant resident. It is populous" and busy.; for it is the place where the produce, chiefly cotton and tobacco, of a very considerable district, is collected, in order to be shipped for Bahia. It is divided into two unequal parts, by the river Paraguazu. Its parish church is dedicated to our Lady of the Rosary. It has two convents, four chapels, an hospital, a fountain, and three stone bridges over the small rivers Pitanga and Caquende, .on which there are very extensive sugar-works. There are wharfs on both sides of the river. The streets are well paved, and the houses built of stone, and tiled: the country is flat, but agreeable. The river is not navi- gable more than two miles above the town; it there narrows and be- comes interrupted by rocks and rapids, and there is a wooden bridge across it. About five miles from Cachoeira, there is an insulated conical hill, called that of Conception, whence there often proceed noises like explosions. These noises are considered in this country as indicative of the existence of metals. Near this place a piece of native copper was found, weighing upwards of fifty-two arobas. It is now in the museum of Lisbon. Our exploring party landed on several of the islands, on their way up the river, and were every where received with great hospitality, and delighted with the beauty and fertility of the country. 22d.-At length all the invalids, excepting myself, are better; but, with another blister on, I can do little but write, or look from the cabin windows; and when I do look, I am sure to see something disagreeable. This very moment, there is a slave ship discharging her cargo, and the slaves are singing as they go ashore. They have left the ship, and they see they will be on the dry land; and so, at the com- mand of their keeper, they are singing one of their country songs, in a strange land. Poor wretches ! could they foresee the slave-market, and the separations of friends and relations that will take place there, and the march up the country, and the labour of the mines, and the sugar-works, their singing would be a wailing cry. But that "blind- ness to the future kindly given," allows them a few hours of sad In 180 it contained 1088 hearths. x 2

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VIGNETTE V. Church and Convent of Sant Antonio da Barre at Bahia, as seen from the Roca.157 177 0157

9th.-As we sailed out of the bay, we amused ourselves with con- jecturing the possible situation of Robinson Crusoe's plantation in the bay of All Saints. Those who had been at Cachoeira chose that it should be in that direction; while such as had been confined to the neighbourhood of the city pitched on different sitios, all or any of which might have answered thepurpose. There is a charm in Defoe's works that one hardly finds, excepting in the Pilgrim's Progress. The language is so homely, thatlone is not aware of the poetical cast

VIGNETTE VI. The Sugar-loaf Rock, at the Entrance to the Harbour of Rio de Janeiro..158 178 0158

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Rio de Janeiro, Saturday, December 15th, 1821. - Nothing that I have ever seen is comparable in beauty to this bay. Naples, the Firth of Forth, Bombay harbour, and Trincomalee, each of which I thought perfect in their beauty, all must yield to this, which surpasses each in its different way. Lofty mountains, rocks of clustered co- lumns, luxuriant wood, bright flowery islands, green banks,-all mixed with white buildings; each little eminence crowned with its church or fort; ships at anchor or in motion; and innumerable boats flitting about in such a delicious climate, -combine to render Rio de Janeiro the most enchanting scene that imagination can conceive. We an- chored first close to a small island, called Villegagnon, about two miles from the entrance of the harbour. That island, however small, was the site of the first colony founded by the Frenchman Ville- gagnon, under the patronage of Coligny, whom he betrayed. The admiral had intended' it as a refuge for the persecuted Hugunots; but when Villegagnon had, by his means, formed the settlement, he began to persecute them also: the colony fell into decay, and became an easy conquest to Mem de Sa, the Portuguese captain-general of Brazil. * We moved from this station to one more commodious nearer the town, and higher up the harbour, towards the afternoon, which soon became so rainy, that I gave up all hopes of getting ashore. I was really disappointed to find that my excellent friend, the Hon. Capt. S. had left the station with his frigate before we arrived; I had, however, the pleasure of receiving a kind letter from him, and he had left me a copy of the great Spanish dictionary. Nobody that has always lived at home, can tell the value of a kindness like this in a foreign land. Sunday, 16th.-I had the pleasure of seeing on board Mr. W. May, who has long been a resident in Brazil, and with whom I had spent many happy hours in early life. The pleasure such meetings give is of the purest and wholesomest nature. It quiets the passions by its own tranquillity; and, in recalling all the innocent and amiable feel- ings of youth, makes us almost forget those harsher emotions which * See Introduction, p. 15.

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the poor, it has every form -porridge, brose, bread; and no meal is complete without it: next to mandioc, the feijoam or dry kidney- bean, dressed in every possible way, but most frequently stewed with a small bit of pork, garlic, salt, and pimento, is the favourite food; and for dainties, from the noble to the slave, sweetmeats of every description, from the most delicate preserves and candies to the coarsest preparations of treacle, are swallowed wholesale. We have hired a horse for our invalid, and I have borrowed one for myself. These animals are rather pretty at Rio, but far from strong; they are fed on maize and capim, or Guinea grass, which was introduced of late years into Brazil, and thrives prodigiously: it is cultivated by planting the joints; the stem and leaves are as large as those of barley; it grows sometimes to the height of six or seven feet, and the flower is a large loose pannicle. The quantity necessary for each horse per day costs about eightpence, and his maize as much more. The common horses here sell for from twenty to one hundred dollars; the fine Buenos Ayres horses fetch a much higher price. Mules are generally used for carriages, being much hardier, and more capable of bearing the summer heat. December 19th.--I walked by the side of Langford's horse up one of the little valleys at the foot of the Corcorado: it is called the Laranjeiros, from the numerous orange trees which grow on each side of the little stream that beautifies and fertilises it. Just at the en- trance to that valley, a little green plain stretches itself on either hand, through which the rivulet runs over its stony bed, and affords a tempting spot to groups of washerwomen of all hues, though the greater number are black; and they add not a little to the pictur- esque effect of the scene: they generally wear a red or.white hand- kerchief round the head; and a full-plaited mantle tied over one shoulder, and passed under the opposite arm, with a full petticoat, is a favourite dress. Some wrap a long cloth round them, like the Hindoos; and some wear an ugly European frock, with a most un- graceful sort of bib tied before them. Round the washerwoman's plain, hedges of acacia and mimosa fence the gardens of plantains, Y

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dWe t.their Ehtse a vte bay f Iro'Bto Fgo, perhaps the most beastifu sp t the:neighbourhood sof io, ri as it is in natural heaty; adits beauty ir _ as by the numerous and pretty coun- ttylhaoes which now surround it, These have all grown up since the arrival of the court from Lisbon; before that time, this lovely spat was only inhabited by a few fishermen and gipsies, with, it might b, a illa o two on the sloping banks by the fruit gardens Beyond the bay, we drove thstug bsautifal lane to the Lake of Rodrigo de Freitas: it.is uealdyr crlar, and about five miles in eircumferene it is surrothded by mountains and forests, except where a short sandy bar afbrda an occasional outlet to the sea, when the lake rises so high as t threaten inconvenience to the surround. ing plantations. It is impossible to conceive any thing richer than the vegetatio down to the very water's edge around the lake. We were to breakfast at the gardens, but as the weather is now hot, we resolved first to walk round them. They are laid out in con- venient squares, the. lleys being planted on either side with a very quickgrowing nut.tree, btought from Renuoolen originally, now naturalised here The nit is as good as the filbert, and larger than the walnut, and yields abundance of oil; the leaf is about the size, and not unlike the shape, of that of the sycamore. The timber also is useful. The quick growth of this tree is unexampled among tim- ber trees, and its height and beauty distinguish it from all others. The hedges between the compartments are of a shrub which I should have taken r.rmyrtle, but that the leaves though firm are not fra- grant. This garden was destined by the King for the cultivation of the oriental spices and fruits, and above all, of the tea plant, which he obtained together with several families accustomed to its culture, from China. Nothing can be more thriving than the whole of the plants. The cinnamon, camphor, nutmeg, and clove, grow as well as in their native soil The bread-fruit produces its fruit in perfec- tion, and such of the orientt fruits as have been brought here ripen as well as in India. I particularly remarked the jumbo malacca, from India, and the longona (Euphoria Longona), a dark kind of Y 2

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Plate VI. View from Count Hoggendorp's Cattage 192

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RIO DE JANEIRO. 169 aloes placed on little pedestals and on a broad low wall that sur- rounds the square. I looked at first in vain for graves; at length I observed on these low walls, and on the higher ones in the outer circle, indications of arches, each being numbered. These are the places for the dead, who are walled up there with quick-lime; and, at a certain period, the bones and ashes are removed to make room for others. At the time of removal, if the dead has a friend who wishes it, the remains are collected in urns or other receptacles, and placed in a building appropriated for them, or where the friend pleases; otherwise they go to the common receptacle, and perish totally by the addition of more quick-lime. This is, I doubt not, the wholesomest way of disposing of the dead; and, even to the sense, is better than the horrid burials at Bahia, where they must infect the air. But there seems to me so little feeling in thus getting rid at once of the remains of that which has once been dear to us, that I went away in disgust. The city of Rio is more like an European city than either Bahia or Pernambuco; the houses are three or four stories high, with pro- jecting roofs, and tolerably handsome. The streets are narrow, few being wider than that of the Corwsat;Romsi, th' Wlich one or two bear a resemblance in their general air, and especially on days of festivals, when the windows and balconies are decorated with crimson, yellow, or green damask hangings. There are two very handsome squares, besides that of the palace. One, formerly the Roa, is now that of the Constitu9ao, to which the theatre, some handsome bar- racks and fine houses, behind which the hills and mountains tower up on two sides, give a very noble appearance. The other, the Campo de Santa Anna, is eceedingly extensive *, but unfinished. Two of the principal streets run across it, from the sea-side to the extremity of the new town, nearly a league, and new and wide streets are stretching out in every direction. But I was too tired with going about in the heat of the day to do more than take a cursory view of these things, and could not even persuade myself to look at the new fountain which is supplied by a new aqueduct. It is 171 feet square. z

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Plate VII. View of Rio from the Glario Hill 195

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passing by and under us across the valley, which leads the eye to the bay below. The General entered frankly into conversation, and during breakfast, and while the shower lasted, spoke almost inces- santly of his imperial master. Early in life the Count had entered the army, a soldier of fortune, under Frederick of Prussia. On his return to his native country, Holland, he was employed by the States, successively, as governor of the eastern part of Java, and as envoy to one of the German courts. During his residence in Java, he had visited many of the English settlements on the main land of India, and had learned English, which he spoke well. On the annexation of Holland to France, he entered the French service with the rank of full colonel. He was always a great favour- ite with Napoleon, to whom his honesty and disinterestedness in money matters seem to have been valuable, in proportion as these qualities were scarce among his followers. The Count's affection for him is excessive, I should have said unaccountable, had he not shown me a letter written to him by the emperor's own hand, on the death of his child, in which, besides much general kindness, there is even a touch of tenderness I had not looked for. During the disastrous expedition to Russia, Hogendorp was entrusted with the government of Poland, and kept his court at Wilna. His last public service was performed in the defence of Hamburgh, where he was lieutenant governor. He would fain have attended the emperor into exile; but that not being allowed, he came hither, where, with the greatest economy, and, I believe, some assistance from the prince, who has great respect for him, he lives chiefly on the produce of his little farm. Most of these particulars I learnt from himself, while resting and sheltered from the rai?, which lasted nearly an hour. He then showed me his house, which is small indeed, consisting of only three rooms, besides the veranda; his study, where a few books, two or three casts from antique bas reliefs, and some maps and prints, indi- cate the retirement of a gentleman; his bedroom, the walls of which, with a capricious taste, are painted black, and on that sombre ground, skeletons of the natural size, in every attitude of glee, remind one of z 2

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Holbein's Dance of Death; and a third room occupied by barrels of orange wine, and jars of liqueur made of the grumaxama, at least as agreeable as cherry brandy which it resembles, the produce of his farm; and the sale of which, together with his coffee, helps out his slender income. The General, as he loves to be called, led us round his garden, and displayed with even fondness, his fruits and his flowers, extolled the climate, and only blamed the people, for the neglect and want of industry, which wastes half the advantages God has given them. On returning to the house, he introduced to me his old Prussian ser- vant, who has seen many a campaign with him, and his negroes, whom he freed on purchasing them: he has induced the woman to wear a nose jewel; after the fashion of Java, which he seems to re- member with particular pleasure. I was sorry to leave the count, but was afraid some alarm might be felt at home concerning us, and therefore bade himn adieu. This evening I paid him another visit, and found him resting after dinner in his veranda. We had a good deal of conversation concern- ing the state of this country, from which, with prudence, every thing good may be hoped; and then the Count told me he was engaged in writing his memoirs, of which he showed me a part, telling me he meant to publish them in England. I have no doubt they will be written with fidelity, and will furnish an interesting chapter in the history of Napoleon. I was sorry to see the old gentleman suffering a good deal; and his age and infirmities seem to threaten a speedy termination to his active life.* * Count Hogendorp died while I was in Chile. Napoleon had left hit by his will five thouand pounds erling but the old man did not live to know this proof of the reco- lection of hi old master. As he approached is end, the Emperor Don Pedro sent to him such assistance, and paid him such attention .a hi state required or admitted of, and had given orders contnig his funeral; but it was found at his death that he was a pro- teatsnt and one of the proteant consuls therefore caused him to be properly interred in the Englsh burial-grond. On undressing him after death, his body was found to be tattooed like those of the atives of the eastern islands. I never saw the count after the st of asuary.

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January 8th, 1822.-The only variety in my quiet life since the first, was afforded by a large and pleasant party at Miss Hayne's. There I saw abundance ofjewels on the heads and necks of the elderly Portuguese ladies, and a good deal of beauty, and some grace, among the younger ones, whom I begin to understand pretty well. We had some good music, and there was a great deal of dancing, and not a little card-playing. To-day we left the house on shore, and are again at home on board the Doris, with all our invalids much better. Having settled every body comfortably, I went ashore to the opera, as it is the benefit night of a favourite musician, Rosquellas, whose name is known on both sides of the Atlantic. The theatre is very handsome; in size and proportion, some of our officers think it as large as the Hay- market, but I differ from them. It was opened on the 12th of October, 1813, the Prince Don Pedro's birth-day. The boxes are commodious, and I hear, that the unseen part of the theatre is com- fortable for the actors, dressers, &c.; but the machinery and decor- ations are deficient. The evening's amusements consisted of a very stupid Portuguese comedy, relieved between the acts by scenes from an opera of Rossini's by Rosquellas, after which, he wasted a great deal of fine playing on some very ugly music. Wednesday, January 9th. - To-day is expected to be a day of much importance to the future fate of Brazil. But I must go back to the arrival of a message from the cortes at Lisbon, intimating to the Prince their pleasure, that he should forthwith repair to Europe, and begin his education, and proceed to travel incognito through Spain, France, and England. This message excited the most lively indignation not only in His Royal Highness, but in the Brazilians from one end of the kingdom to the other. The Prince is willing to obey the orders of his father and the cortes, at the same time he cannot but feel as a man the want of decency of the message, and . being thus bid to go home; and especially forbidden to carry any guards with him, as it should seem, lest they might have contracted too much attachment for his person. The Brazilians regard this step as preliminary to removing from this country the courts of justice,

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QUILITY!! * Expressions truly sublime, and which contain the " whole philosophy of politics. Without UNION you cannot be strong, " without strength you cannot command TRANxQULLITY. Portuguese ! " Citizens! You have a Prince who speaks to you with kindness of "your own work; who invites you to rally with. him round the "constitution; who recommends to you that moral force which " embraces justice and is identified with reason, and which can alone " accomplish the great work we have begun. To-day you burst the "bonds which threatened you with suffocation. To-day you assume "the true attitude of free men. But yet all is not done. Intrigue and discord, muttering furies, perhaps even now meditate fresh "plans, and still endeavour to sow division, and to overthrow the "trophies you have just raised to glory and to national honour. "The same enthusiasm, ill directed, might produce the greatest crimes. Fellow citizens! UNION and TRANQUILLITY. The giddiness "of party is unworthy of free men. Fulfil your duties. Yield to "the gentle exhortation of your august Prince;...... but in return say "to him ' Sire! ENERGY and VI.ILASCE. Energy to promote good, - " Vigilance to prevent evil. The whole world has now its eyes " fixed on you. The steps you are about to take, may place you in "the temple of memory, or confound you among the number of "weak princes, unworthy of the distinctions which adorn them. " Perhaps you may influence the destinies of the whole world. "Perhaps even Europe, anxiously and on tip-toe, reposes her hope " upon you ! PRINCE ! ENERGY and VIOILANCE. Glory is not incom- " patible with youth, and the hero of the 26th February may become " the hero of the 9th January. Unite yourself with a people which loves you, which offers you fortune, life, everything. Prince! " how sweet is it to behold the cordial expansion of the feeling of " free men! but how distressing to witness the withering in the bud "of hopes so justly founded! Banish, Sire, fir ever from Brazil, " multiform flattery, hypocrisy of double face, discord with her , viperous tongue. Listen to truth, submit to reason, attend to justice. Be your attributes frankness and loyalty. Let the con- * Referring to a speech of the Prince on determining to slay in Brail. A 2

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"stitution be the pole-star to direct you: without it there can be "no happiness for you nor for us. Seek not to reign over slaves, " who kiss the chains of ignominy. Rule over free hearts. So shall "you be the image of the divinity among us; -so will you fulfil our " hopes. ENEsGY and VIGILANCE, and we will follow your precept, " UNION and TRANQUILLITY.'" A priest, one of the favourites of the people, was called on to speak repeatedly. The national hymn was sung again and again, and the Prince and Princess, who were observed to be chiefly surrounded by Brazilian officers, were again loudly cheered. And everything in the city, which was brilliantly illuminated, went off in the utmost harmony. Nothing can be more beautiful of the kind than such an illumi- nation seen from the ship. The numerous forts at the entrance to the harbour, on the islands, and in the town, have each their walls. traced in light, so they are like fairy fire-castles; and the scattered lights of the city and villages, connect them by a hundred little brilliant chains. To-day our friends the merchants are under fresh alarm, and have made a formal request to the captain to stay. With that petty spirit whichpassesfor diplmoatic,the deputy-consul and merchants,instead of saying what they are afraid of, only say, " Sir, we are afraid, circum- " stances make us so, and we hope you will stay till," &c. &c.; as much as to say, "You are answerable for evil, if it happens," although they are too much afraid of committing themselves to say why. I do not trouble myself now about their official reports,which I perceive are large sheets of paper, and large seals, without one word that might not be published on every church wall, for their milk and water tenor, but which I con- sider as absurd and mischievous, because they tend to excite distrust and alarm where no danger is. The truth is now, that there might be some cause of fear, if they would openly express it. The language of the Portuguese officers is most violent. They talk of carrying the Prince by main force to Lisbon, and so making him obey the Cortes in spite of the Brazilians; and both parties are so violent, that they ^ Composed by the Prince.

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will probably fight. In that fight there will doubtless be danger to foreign property; but why not say so ? why not say such is the case? However, the wisest of the sons of men in modern times *, has long ago set in the second place those who could not afford to be open and candid in matters of business; so I may leave them alone. 1 th. - I went ashore last night to the opera, as it was again a gala night, and hoped to have witnessed the reception of the Prince and Princess. The Viscondea do Rio Seco kindly invited meto her box, which was close to theirs; but, after waiting some time, notice arrived that the Prince was so busy writing to Lisbon, that he could not come. The double guard was withdrawn, and the play went on. I had, how- ever, the pleasure of seeing the theatre illuminated, of hearing their national hymn, and of seeing the ladies better dressed than I had yet had occasion to do. There is a great deal of uneasiness to-day. The Portuguese com- mander-in-chief of the troops, General Avilez, has demanded and received his discharge. It is said, perhaps untruly, that his remon- strance to the Prince against his remaining here has been ungentle- manlike and indecent. I hear the troops will not consent to his removal, and they are particularly incensed that the choice of a suc- cessor should fall on General Curado, a Brazilian, who, it is said, will be called from St. Paul's to succeed Avilez. He is a veteran, who has commanded with distinction in all the campaigns on the southern frontier, and his actions are better known among his countrymen than those distant battles in Europe, on which the Portuguese officers of every rank are apt to pride themselves here, however slight the share they had in them, to the annoyance of the Brazilians. 12th. - Yesterday the military commission for the government of the army here was broke up, and Curada appointed commander-in- chief, and minister of war. The Portuguese General Avilez made his appearance at the barracks of the European soldiers to take leave of them; they were under arms to receive him, and vowed not to part with him, or to obey another commander, and were with difficulty reduced to such order as to promise tolerable tranquillity for the day * Bacon, Essy o Dissimulation and Simultien.

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at least. It is said, that as it had been understood that they had expressed some jealousy, because the guard of honour at the opera- house had been for the two last evenings composed of Brazilians, the Prince sent to the Portuguese barracks for the guard of last night, but that they refused to go; saying, that as His Royal Highness was so partial to the Brazilians, he had better continue to be guarded by them. I am not sure this is true, but from the circumstances of the day it is not improbable. The opera-house was again brilliantly lighted. The Prince and Princess were there, and had been received as well as on the ninth, when, at about eleven o'clock, the Prince was called out of his box, and informed that bodies of from twenty to thirty of the Portuguese soldiers were parading the streets, breaking windows and insulting passengers in their way from barrack to barrack, where everything wore the appearance of determined mutiny. At the sametime, a report of these circumstances having reached the house, the spectators began to rise for the purpose of going home; when the Prince, having given such orders as were necessary, returned to the box, and going with the Princess, then near her confinement, to the front, he addressed the people, assured them that there was nothing serious, that he had already given orders to send the riotous soldiers, who had been quar- relling with the blacks, back to their barracks, and entreated them not to leave the theatre and increase the tumult, by their presence in the street, but remain till the end of the piece, as he meant to do, when he had no doubt all would be quiet. The coolness and pre- sence of mind of the Prince, no doubt, preserved the city from much confusion and misery. By the time the opera was over the streets were sufficiently clear to permit every one to go home in safety. Meantime the Portuguese troops, to the number of seven hundred, had marched up to the Castle-hill, commanding the principal streets in the town, and had taken with them four pieces of artillery, and threatened to sack the town. The field-pieces belonging to the Brazilians, which had remained in the town after the 26th of February, had been sent to the usual station of the artillery, at the botanical gardens, no longer ago than last week, so they entertained no fear of

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RIO DE JANE1RO. 185 In the open part of the Campo were straggling soldiers, or whole companies, escaped from the heated crowd of the enclosure: horses, mules, and asses, many of all lying down from sheer fatigue. In all directions, negroes were coming, laden with capim or maize for the horses, or bearing on their heads cool drink and sweetmeats for the men. In one corner, a group of soldiers, exhausted with travel and watching, lay asleep; in another, a circle of black boys were gambling: in short, all ways of beguiling the time while waiting for a great event might be seen; from those who silently and patiently expected the hour, in solemn dread of what the event might be, to those who, merely longing for action, filled up the interval with what might make it pass most lightly. I was well pleased with the view I had of the people in the Campo, and still better as the day wore away, for I staid sometime, to feel assured that all was to pass with- out bloodshed, beyond the two or three persons killed accidentally during the night. On our return to the ship, we were stopped for some time in the palace square, by a great concourse of people assembled to witness the entrance of the first Brazilian guard into the palace, while the last Portuguese guard marched out, amid the loud huzzas of the people; and on reaching the stairs, where we were to embark, we found the last of one regiment, and the first of another, about to sail for the Praya Grande, so that the city may sleep in security to-night. The inhabitants generally, but especially the foreign merchants, are well pleased to see the Lisbon troops dismissed; for they have long been most tyrannically brutal to strangers, to negroes, and not unfrequently to Brazilians; and, for many weeks past, their arrogance has been disgusting to both prince and people.* The appearance of the city is melancholy enough: the shops are shut up, guards are parading the streets, and every body looks an- xious. The shopkeepers are all employed as militia: they are walking about with bands and belts of raw hides over their ordi- he heavy step of the Portuguese infanty has earned for them the nickname o Pedcao, or leden foot; now applied to all prtisans of Portugal. B B

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1Sih. - Our ball went off very well: we had more foreigners than English; and as there was excellent music from the opera-orchestra, and a great deal of dancing, the young people enjoyed it much. I should have done so also, but that Captain Graham was suffering with the gout so severely, that I could have wished to put off the dance. I had commissioned the Viscondega do Rio Seco and some other ladies to bring their Portuguese friends, which they did, and we had a number of pretty and agreeable women, and several gentle- manlike men, in addition to our English friends. A dance on ship-board is always agreeable and.picturesque: there is something in the very contrast afforded, by the furniture of the deck of a ship of war to the company and occupation of a ball that is striking. "The litte ,warike world within, . .The, well-reeved guns and netted caopy,", all dressed with evergreens and Powers, waving' over the heads of gay girls and their smiling partners, furnish forth combinations in which poetry and romance delight, and which one must be stoical in- deed to contemplate without emotion. I never'loved dancing my- self, perhaps because I never excelled in it; but yet,'a ball-room is to me a delightful place. There arb happy faces, and hearts not the less happy for the little anxious palpitations that arise now and then, and curiosity, and hope, and all the amiable feelings of youth and nature; and if among it a little elderly gaiety mingles, and excites a smile, I, for my part, rather reverence the youth of heart which lives through the cares and vexations of this life, and can mingle in, without disturbing, the hilarity of youth. 17th. -Nothing remarkable yesterday or to-day, but the perfect quiet of the town. The Prince goes on discharging the soldiers. 19th.--This day the new ministers arrived from St. Paul's; the chief of whom in station, as in talent, is Jose Bonifacio de Andrada e Silva. According to the opinion 'entertained of him by the people here, 1 should say that Cowper had described him, when he wrote a B 2

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10th.--We went ashore yesterday. The advance of the season has ripened the oranges and mangoes since we left Bahia, and has in- creased the number, of insects, so that the nights are no longer silent, The hissing, chirping, and buzzing of crickets, beetles, and grasshop- pers, continue from sunset to sunrise; and all day long the trees and flowers are surrounded by myriads of brilliant wings. The most destructive insects are the ants, and every variety of them that can hurt vegetable life is to be found here. Some form nests, like huge hanging cones among the branches of the trees, to which a covered gallery of clay from the ground may be traced along the trunk: others surround the trunks and larger branches with their nests; many more ive under ground. I have seen in a single night the most flourishing orange-tree stripped of every leaf by this mischievous creature. 16th. - We sailed from Bahia, finding every thing, to all appear- ance, quiet*; and no apprehension being entertained by the English, a ball at the consul's, another at Mrs. N.'s, and a third at. Mrs. R.'s, at each of which, as' many of our young men as could get ashore were present, made them very happy, and we had some very pleasant rides into the country. I had intended, if possible, visiting a huge mass, said to be so similar to the meteoric stones that have fallen in different parts of the world as to induce a belief that it is also one of them, although it weighs many tons, and I hoped to get a piece of it; but I find it is near Nazareth de Farinha, on the other side of the bay, and too far off for this present visit to Bahia. The first time we were at Bahia, I could not even learn where it was, so incurious are my countrymen here about what brings no profit. 24th. Rio de Janeiro.-Nothing remarkable occurred on our passage here from Bahia. The school-room proceeds exceedingly well; both with the master and the scholars; and as we are all in tolerable health, we look forward with no small pleastre to our voyage to Chile, for which we are preparing. Very shortly after e sailed, I believe within a dy or two, those disturbances broke out t Bahia, which lasted until the 2d of July, 182s.

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During our absence, the Prince Don Pedro has been very active, and has dismissed all the Portuguese troops. On the ships being pro- vided to transport them to Europe, they refused to embark, on which His'Royal Highness caused a heavy frigate to anchor opposite to their quarters, and went on board himself the night before the morning appointed by him for their sailing. The steam-vessel at- tended for the purpose of towing the transports, in case of necessity; and several gun-vessels were stationed so as to command the barracks of the refractory regiments, while a body of Brazilian soldiers was stationed in the neighbourhood. The Prince was, during the greater part of the night, in his barge, going from vessel to vessel, and disposing every thing to make good his threat, that if the Portuguese were not all on board by eight o'clock the next morning, he would give them such a breakfast of Brazilian balls as should make them glad to leave the country. This he had been provoked to say, by a mes- sage from the officers and men, insolently delivered that very night, desiring more time to prepare for their voyage. Seeing His Royal Highness in earnest, which they could hardly be brought to believe he was, they thought it most prudent to do as they were bid; and accordingly embarked, to the no small joy of the Brazilians, who had long cordially hated them. Friday, March Ist. -The weather is now excessively hot, the thermometer being seldom under 88°, and we have had it on board at 92° Fahrenheit. Capt. Graham has had a slight attack of gout, for which reason I have not been ashore since our return from Bahia; but as he is a little better to-day he has insisted on my accompany- ing a party of our young men in an expedition up the harbour to see a country estate and factory. At one o'clock, our friend, Mr. N. called for us, with a large boat of the country, which is better for the purpose than our ship's boats. These vessels have a standing awning, and two very large triangular sails: they are managed according to their size, by four, six, eight, or more negroes, besides the man at the helm: when rowing, the rowers rise at every stroke, and then throw themselves

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back on their seats. I think I have heard that within the memory of persons now in the navy it was the fashion to row the admiral's barges so in England. The boatmen are here universally negroes; some free, and owners of their boats; others slaves, who are obliged to take home a daily fixed sum to their masters, who oftep pass a life of total indolence, being fed in this way by their slaves. The place we were going to is Nossa Senhora da Luz, about twelve miles from Rio, up the harbour, near the mouth of the river Guaxin- diba, which river rises in the hills of Taypu; and though its straight course is only five miles, its windings would measure twenty or more: it is navigable, and its banks are astonishingly fertile. The evening was charming, and we sailed past many a smiling island and gay wooded promontory, where gardens and country- houses are thickly scattered, and whence provisions in innumerable boats and. canoes cross the bay every morning for the city. Our first view of N. S. da Luz presented such a high red bank, half covered with grass and trees, overhanging the water in the evening sun, as Cuyp would have chosen for a landscape; and just as I was wishing for something to animate it, the oxen belonging to the fac- tory came down to drink and cool themselves in the bay, and com- pleted the scene. The cattle here are large and well-shaped, some- thing like our own Lancashire breed, and mottled in colour, though mostly red. On doubling the point of the bank, we came .upon a small white church, with some venerable trees near it; beyond that was the house, with a long veranda, supported by white columns; and still farther on, the sugar-house, and the pottery and brick-work. We landed close to the house; but as the beach is shallow and muddy, we were carried ashore by negroes. Nothing can be finer than the scenery here. From the veranda, besides the picturesque and do. mestic fore-ground, we see the bay, dotted with rocky islands; one of these, called Itaoca, is remarkable as having, in the opinion of the Indians, been the residence of some divine person: it is connected with the traditions concerning their benefactor, Zome, who taught them the use of the mandioc, and whom the first missionaries here c c

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cool refreshing breeze of evening, after a day of all but intolerable heat, render the night indeed the season of pleasure in this climate: nor were the rude songs of the negroes, as they loaded the boats to be ready to sail down the harbour with the morning's land-breeze, unpleasing. As we were looking over the bay, a larger boat appeared: it neared the shore; and our host, Mr. Lewis P., who superintends the fazenda, landed, and kindly received our apology for coming without previous notice. The visit had long been talked of; but now our time at Rio was likely to be so short, that had we not come to-day, we might not have come at all. He led the way to the gar- den, where we passed the time till supper was ready. The midship- men found more oranges, and better than they had yet met with, and did full justice to them. The fruit and vegetables of Europe and America, of the temperate and torrid zones, meet here; nor are their flowers forgotten: over against the little parterre, an orange and a tamarind tree shade a pleasant bench; close to which, in something of oriental taste, the white stucco wall of the well is raised and crowned with flower-pots, filled with roses and sweet herbs. 2d-I rose at daylight, and rode with Mr. N. through the estate, while Mr. Dance, my cousin Glennie, and the two boys, went to shoot in the marsh by the river side. Every turn in our ride brought a new and varied landscape into view: beneath, the sugar-cane in luxuriant growth, above, the ripen- ing orange and the palm; around and scattered through the plain enlivened by the windings of the Gazindiba, the lime, the guava, and a thousand odorous and splendid shrubs, beautified the path. - But all is new here. The long lines of fazenda houses, that now and then take from the solitariness of nature, suggest no association with any advance either of old or present time, in the arts that civilise or that ennoble man. The rudest manufactures, carried on by African slaves, one half of whom are newly imported, (that is, are still smarting under the separation from all that endears the home, even of a savage,) are all the approaches to improvement; and though cc2

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fazenda; clean shirts and trowsers were given the men, and shifts and skirts to the women, of very coarse white cotton. Each, as he or she came in, kissed a hand, and then bowed to Mr. P. saying, either " Father, give me blessing,' or " The names of Jesus and Mary be praised !" and were answered accordingly, either " Bless you," or " Be they praised." T'his is the custom in old establishments: it is repeated morning and evening, and seems to acknowledge a kind of relationship between master and slave. It must diminish the evils of slavery to one, the tyranny of mastership in the other, to acknow- ledge thus a common superior Master on whom they both depend. As each slave passed in review, some questions were asked con- cerning himself; his family, if he had one, or his work; and each received a portion of snuff or tobacco, according to his taste. Mr. P. is one of the few persons whom I have met conversant among slaves, who appears to have made them an object of rational and hu- mane attention. He tells me that the creole negroes and mulattoes are far superior in industry to the Portuguese and Brazilians; who, from causes not difficult to be imagined, are far the most part indo- lent and ignorant The negroes and mulattoes have strong motives to exertion of every kind, and succeed in what they undertake ac- cordingly. They are the best artificers and artists. The orchestra of the opera-house is composed of at least one-third of mulattoes. All decorative painting, carving, and inlaying is done by them; in short, they excel in all ingenious mechanical arts. In the afternoon I attended Mr. P. to see the negroes receive their daily allowance of food. It consisted of farinha, kidney-beans, and dried beef, a fixed measure of each to every person. One man asked for two portions, on account of the absence of his neighbour, whose wife had desired it might be sent to her to make ready for him by the time he returned. Some enquiries which Mr. P. made about this person, induced me to ask his history. It seems he is a mulatto boatman, the most trusty servant on the estate, and rich, because he is industrious enough to have earned a good deal of private property, besides doing his duty to his master. In his youth, and he is not now

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was among the Indians of Brazil; and probably the slaves, though baptized, dance to the moon in memory of their homes. As for the instruments, they are the most inartificial things that ever gave out musical sounds; yet they have not an unpleasing effect One is simply composed of a crooked stick, a small hollow gourd, and a single string of brass wire. The mouth of the gourd must be placed on the naked skin of the side; so that the ribs of the player form the sounding- board, and the string is struck with a short stick. A second has more the appearance of a guitar: the hollow gourd is covered with skin; it has a bridge, and there are two strings; it is played with the finger. Another ofthe same class is played with a bow; it has but one string, but is fretted with the fingers. All these are called Gourmis. There were, besides, drums made of the hollow trunks of trees, four or five feet long, closed at one end with wood, and covered with skin at the other. In playing these, the drummer lays his instrument on the ground and gets astride on it, when he beats time with his hands to his own songs, or the tunes of the gourmis. The small marimba has a very sweet tone. On a flat piece of sonorous wood a little bridge is fast- ened; and to this small slips of iron, of different lengths, are attached, so as that both ends vibrate on the board, one end being broader and more elevated than the other. This broad end is played with the thumbs, the instrument being held with both hands. All these are tuned in a peculiar manner, and with great nicety, especially the marimba*; but, as I am no musician, I cannot explain their methods. The simplest of these sri instrmie ts and two kinds of manrimbu, have found plae in the Jesuit Bonnanis' Gabineto Armonic, printed at Rome, 1722, and dedicated to Holy King Dasid. The great marimb consist, of large wooden frame; in which a number of hollow caes, abot nine inches long, are placed, with the mouth upwards; cross these open ds are Ildd pieces of sonorous wood, which being struck with aother yield a pleasant sound, like the wden armonieas of Malacc The whole is suspended round the neck, like the old mann' psaltey in the Dance of Death. Each nation of negroe hasits own pecliar instrument, whih its exiles have introduced here. A king of each tribe is annually elected, to whom his people are obedient, something in the way of the gipsy monarchy. Before 1806 the election took plaer with great ceremony and festing, and sometimes fighting, in the Campo de Sta. Anna; nd the king of the whole was seated during the day in die centre of the square under a huge state umbrella. This festiel is now abolished.

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VIGNETTE VII. The End of an Island in the Harbour of Rio de Janeiro, drawn for the sake of the variety of Vegetation..201 227 0201

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I am sorry we have passed so far out of sight of the Falkland Islands, Sir John Hawkins's maiden land. The idea of seeing a town left standing as it was, by all its inhabitants at once, and of the tame animals becoming wild, had something romantic. It seemed like a realisation of the Arabian tale of the half-marble prince, and in real interest comes near the discovery of the lost Greenland settle- ments. I do not know any thing that gratifies the imagination, more than the situations and incidents that by bringing distant

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periods of time together, places them, as it were, at once within our own reach. I remember some years ago spending a whole day with no companion but my guide at Pompeii, and becoming so intimate with the ancients, their ways, and manners, that I felt, when I went home to Naples, and its lazaroni, and its English travellers, as I suppose, that one of the seven sleepers to have done, who went to purchase bread with money five centuries old. As to the marble cities of Moorish Africa, when we consider their exposure to the sirocco, and read Dolomieu's Experiments on the Atmosphere, during the prevalence of that wind at Malta, we shall find but too probable a reason for their existence as reported. 25th. -Latitude 51° 58' S., longitude 51° W., thermometer 41°. Strong south-westerly gales and heavy sea. Just as our friends in England are looking forward to spring, its gay light days and early flowers, we are sailing towards frozen regions, where avarice' self has been forced to give up half-formed settlements by the severity of the climate. We are in the midst of a dark boisterous sea; over us, a dense, grey, cold sky. The albatross, stormy petrel, and pin- tado are our companions; yet there is a pleasure in stemming the apparently irresistible waves, and in wrestling thus with the ele- ments. I forget what writer it is who observes, that the sublime and the ridiculous border on each other; I am sure they approach very nearly at sea. If I look abroad, I see the grandest and most sublime object in nature, -the ocean raging in its might, and man, in all his honour, and dignity, and powers of mind and body, wrestling with and commanding it: then I look within, round my little home in the cabin, and every roll of the ship causes accidents irresistibly ludicrous; and in spite of the inconveni- ences they bring with them, one cannot choose but laugh. Some- times, in spite of all usual precautions, of cushions and clothes, the breakfast-table is suddenly stripped of half its load, which is lodged in the lee scuppers, whither the coal-scuttle and its contents had adjourned the instant before: then succeed the school-room dis- tresses of capsized ink-stands, broken slates, torn books, and lost D D 2

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VOYAGE ROTND CAPE HORN. l. April lt.-Latitude 57' 4 ; the weather much more mild and moderate. Our young men have caught a number of birds, prini- pally petrels; the P. Pelagica, or Mother Cary's chicken, is the least; the P. Pintado is gayest on the water; but the P. Glacilis, or fir mer, is most beautiful when brought on board: I cannot enough ad- mire the delicate beauty of the snow-white plumage, unwet and unsoiled, amid the salt waves. The poets have scandalised both the arctic and antarctic regions as A beaO eopanse, Shagg'd o'er with wary rockl, heerless and oid Of eyf Z~ " yet, on Capt. Parry's approach to the north pole, he found the soli. tude teeming with life; and the farther south we have sailed, the more life we have found on the waters. Yesterday the seawas covered with albatrosses, and four kinds of petrel: the penguin comes near us; shoals of porpoises are constantly flitting by, and whales for ever rising to the surface and blowing along-side of the ship. With the thermometer not lower than 30', we feel the cold ex- cessive. Yesterday morning the main rigging was cased in ice; and the ropes were so frozen after the sleet in the night, that it was diffi- cult to work them. I never see these things but I think of Thomson's description of Sir Hugh Willoughby's attempt to discover the north- west passage, when , He with his hapless crew, Each full eerted at his several task, Froze into states; the cordage glued The saior, mnd the pilot to helst: I was glad to-day, when the dead-lights were removed, to see the bright, blue, but still boisterous sea, spreading with ample waves curled with snowy tops, in the sunshine; it is many days since we have seen the sun, and the white birds flying and chattering, or wrest- ling on the water, while the ship, like them, sometimes bravely mounts the very top of the wave, and sometimes quietly subsides with it These are the things we behold " who go down to the sea in ships, "and occupy our business in the great waters." No one can imagine,

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We passed anather onethhe , whih Glene calculated to be 410 feet high; it was ear enough for us to see the waes break on it. In eonversing on this subject with the offcers sine,-for at the time I ws indeed unable tothink of it,-I find ther is rason to hik that, insteadof anieberg, we saw nd on the sth. It was een in he ltitde and logitde ofan an i d visited by Drake, marked in the old chart.

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VOYAGE ROUND CAPE HORN. 207 20th pril, 1822.-To-day wemade the coast of Chile. I had con- tinued to write my Journal regularly; but though nearly two years are past since I wrote it, I cannot bring myself to copy it: from the 3d of April.it became a register of acute suffering; and, on my part, of alternate hopes and fears through days and nights of darkness and storms, which aggravated the wretchedness of those wretched hours. On the night of the ninth of April, I regularly undressed and went to bed for the first time since I left Rio de Janeiro. All was then over, and I slept long and rested; but I awoke to the consciousness of being alone, and a widow, with half the globe between me and my kindred. Many things very painful occurred. But I had comfort too. I found sympathy and brotherly help from some and I was not insensible to the affectionate behaviour of my boys, as the midshipmen were called. And I had the comfort to feel that no stranger hand had closed his eyes, or smoothed his pillow. Mr. Loudon and Mr. Kift, the surgeon and assistant surgeon, never left the bed-side; and, when my strength failed, my cousin Mr. Glennie, and Mr.-Blatchly, two passed midshipmen, did all that friends could do. Mr. Dance, the second lieutenant,-though, from the illness of the first lieutenant, the whole business of the ship devolved on him,- found time to be near his friend's death-bed; and, whether at noon or midnight, was never absent where kindness could be shown. But what could any human kindness do for me? My comfort must come from him who in his own time will " wipe off all tears from "' our faces."

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SECOND VISIT TO BRAZIL 235 0209

SECOND VISIT TO BRAZIL. BEProa I begin the Journal of my Second Visit to Brazil, from which I was absent a year and three days, it will be necessary to give a short account of the principal events which took place during that year, and which changed the government of the country. The Prince Regent had in vain sent the most pressing represent- ations in favour of Brazil to the Cortes. No notice whatever was taken of his despatches; and the government at Lisbon continued to legislate for Brazil as if it were a settlement on the coast of savage Africa, The ministers who had served Don John had seen enough of the country, during their residence in it, to be persuaded that Brazil, united, was at any time competent to throw off all subjection to the mother country; the object, therefore, became to divide it. Accordingly a scheme for the government of Brazil was framed, by which each captaincy should be ruled by a junta, whose acts were to be totally independent on each other, and only recognisable by the authorities in Portugal; and the Prince was ordered home in a peremptory and indecent manner. I have mentioned in my Journal the reception those orders had met with, and the resolution His Royal Highness had adopted of staying in Brazil. As soon as this resolution became known to the provinces, addresses and deput- ations poured in on all sides from every town and captaincy, excepting the city of Bahia and the province of Maranham, which had always had a government independent of the rest of Brazil. E

JOURNAL: REVOLUTION OF BRAZIL 236 0210

In December, 1821, the King had appointed General Madeira governor of Bahia and commander of the troops. He entered on his office in February; and shortly afterwards the first actual warfare between the Portuguese and Brazilians began in the city of St. Sal- vador, on the 6th of the month, when the Brazilians were defeated with some loss.* Meantime, the province of St. Paul's had made every exertion to raise and arm troops; and early in February 1100 men marched towards Rio, to put themselves at the disposal of the Prince. Some recruits for the seamen and marine corps were raised, and a naval academy established, the object of all which was to pre- vent the carrying away the Prince by force. It was now thought advisable that the Prince should visit the two most important pro- vinces, St. Paul's and the Mines; and on the 26th or 27th of March he left Rio for that purpose, leaving the executive govern- ment in the hands of the minister Jose Bonefacio. His Royal High- ness was received every where with enthusiasm, until he arrived at the last stage, on his way to Villa Rica, the capital of the province of Minas Geraes; there he received intelligence of a party raised to 'ppose his entrance by the Juiz de Fora, supported by a captain of ont of the regiments of Cagadores. He immediately caused some troops to be assembled and joined with those which accompanied him, and then remained where he was,'and sent to the camara of the town, to say he was able to enter by force, but had rather come among them as a friend and protector. Several messages passed- the conspirators discovered that the Prince was, indeed, sufficiently atrong to overpower them; and besides, they met with no support, as they had hoped, from the magistrates or people. His Royal High- * O the 25th of May following a soemn mass was performed for the souls of those who had falen on both sides, at the expense of the Bahians resident at Rio, in the hurch of San Franocsco de Paulo. The cenotaph raised in the church was surrousded by itcriptionrs in Latin and Portugu-se one of the most striking is, " Eteral glors to those whogie their blod for their country." ( He quha dies for his cuntre 8dl herbyrit iitl hewyn be," says Bartso.) TIe day was one of those Brszila rdtafy day, when it shld enm another deluge eas coming: but the Princ and Prinseas were the frst at the erremony.

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ness, therefore, entered Villa Rica on the 9th of April, and on the magistrates and people attending to compliment him, he addressed them thus:- " Brave Mineros! The shackles of despotism, which began to be "loosened on the 24th of August in Porto, are now bursting in this "province. Be free,- be constitutional! Unite with me, and pro- " eed constitutionally. I rely entirely on you. Do you depend on "me. Let not yourselves be deluded by those who seek the ruin of "your province, and of the whole nation. Viva, The Constitutional King "Viva, Our Religion ! Viva, All honest men ! "Viva, The Mineros !' The next day the Prince held a general court, and remained eleven days at Villa Rica. The only punishment inflicted on the conspir- ators, was suspension from their offices; and this royal visit attached this province to him, .as firmly as those of St. Paul's and Rio. He returned to Rio de Janiero on the 25th, where he was received in the most flattering manner, and where he became daily more popular; and on the 13th of May, King John's birth-day, the senate and people bestowed on him the title of Perpetual Defender of Brazil, and thenceforward his style was, CoNSTITTIAL PBINCE REGENT, AND PEBPETUAL DEFENDER OF THE KINGDOM or BEAZIL. The impossibility of continuing united to Portugal had become daily more apparent. All the southern provinces were eager to de, dare their independence. Pernambuco and its dependencies had long manifested a similar feeling, and the province of Bahia was equally inclined to freedom although the city was full of Portuguese troops under Madeira, and receiving constant reinforcements and supplies from Lisbon. The Cortes seemed resolved on bringing matters to extremities; the language used in their sessions, with respect .to the Prince, was highly indecent Such commanders either by sea or land as obeyed EE 2

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OF BRAZIL. 21 an ingenious blacksmith, they were rendered serviceable; and the patriots ventured to take the field against Madeira's parties, even before the arrival of any assistance from Rio. Meantime, news of these transactions arrived at Rio, as well as notice of the decrees of the Cortes at Lisbon. The Prince and peo- ple no longer hesitated. His Royal Highness, together with the senate, issued proclamations on the 3d of June, calling together a representative and legislative assembly, to be composed of members from every province and town, to meet in the city of Rio; and on the first of August he published that noble manifesto, by which the independence of Brazil was openly asserted, the grounds of its claims clearly stated, and the people exhorted to let no voice but that of honour be heard among them, and to let the shores, from the Amazons to the Plata, resound with no cry but that of independence. On the same day, a decree was put forth to resist the hostilities of Portugal, containing the following articles:-1st, All troops sent by any country whatever, without leave obtained from the Prince, shall be accounted enemies: 2d, If they come in peace, they shall remain on board their ships, and shall not communicate with the shore; but, having received.supplies, shall depart: 3d, That in case of disobe- dience, they shall be repulsed by force: 4th, If they force a land- ing in any weak point, the inhabitants shall retire to the interior, with all their moveables, and the militia shall make war as guerillas against the strangers: 5th, That all governors, &c. shall fortify their ports, &c.: 6th, Reports to be forthwith made of the state of the ports in Brazil, for that end. This last decree had been anticipated by the Pernambucans, who had marched a body of troops to the assistance of the patriots of Cachoiera, and a most harassing warfare was commenced against the Portuguese in St. Salvador: these last had received a reintbrcement of seven hundred men on the 8th of August; but they had hardly had time to exult in their arrival, when a squadron from Rio Janeiro dis- embarked at Alagoas 5000 guns, six field-peces, 270,000 cartridges, 2000 pikes, 500 carbines, 500 pistols, 500 cutlasses, and 260 men,

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hundred men of the Cacadores, under Colonel Russel, to attempt to gain possession of the Ilha do Medo, which commands the Funil, or passage between the mainland and Itaparica leading to Nazareth; but their boats grounded, and they were obliged to wait for the tide, while the Brazilians, who are excellent marksmen, and were con- cealed among the bushes ashore, picked them off at leisure. Another expedition, equally unfortunate, was sent with a large gun-vessel to Cachoeira, and arrived off the public square, just as it was filled with people proclaiming the Emperor. The guns began to play on the mob; but the tide was low, and the shot, instead of reaching the people, only struck the quays, and did little damage. The Brazilian soldiers now crowded to the wharfs, and thence commenced so brisk a fire on the enemy, that the commander of the vessel retreated hastily without killing a man, though he lost many. In this action Dona Maria de Jesus distinguished herself; for the spirit of pa- triotism had not confined itself to the men.* The most considerable expedition sent by Madeira from Bahia was to the Punto de Itaparica, the possession of which was becoming daily more important, as the provisions in the town diminished. For this purpose 1500 men were embarked on board the Promtadao, and two other brigs of war; they were to land half on one side and half on the other of the little peninsula forming the Punto, on which there is a small fort and town, which the troops were to attack while the brigs fired on the fort. The passage from Bahia to this point is usually of six or seven hours at most, allowing for a contrary wind; but these vessels were two days in reaching it, by which time the Brazilians had thrown up heaps of sand; behind which they lay con- cealed, and deliberately fired on the Lusitanians as they passed, and committed great slaughter, without the loss of a man, though they had several wounded. This action, if it may be called so, took place on the 2d of January, 1823, and lasted from noon till sunset. Meantime the land side of the city had been harassed by continual attacks, and the troops worn out with constant watching; for the Of her, see more in the Journal.

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W

VIGNETTE VIII. Convicts carrying Water at Rio de Janeiro...217 243 0217

* My cousin Mr. Glennie invalided, fm the Doris, having broken a blood-essel F F

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none; few Brazilians are sailors at all, and. French, English, and Americans are very scarce. The Emperor is fond of the navy, and very active in looking into every department. He is often in the dock-yards by daylight, and the Empress generally accompanies him. Their Majesties appear by all accounts to be highly popular. Their youth, their spirit, the singular situation in which they are placed, are all interesting. It is seldom that a hereditary prince, ventures to stand forth in the cause of freedom or independence; and a son of the house of Braganza, and a daughter of that of Austria, leading the way to the independence of this great empire, cannot but excite the love as well as the admiration of their fortunate subjects. The weather cleared up in the afternoon, and I went ashore to see if I could find any of my old friends, or hear any news; but all the English were gone to their country-houses, and the opera, the proper place for gossip, is shut, because it is Lent; so I returned to the brig, and found Lord Cochrane ready to go ashore to wait on the Emperor, who had come in from San Cristova6 to meet him at the palace in town. His Lordship and Captain Crosbie, who went with him, did not return till late, but then well pleased with their reception. March 14th. - Another day of such heavy rain, that I have no chance of landing my invalid. Mr. May came on board, and told me I might have Sir T. Hardy's house for a few days, till I can get one for myself. He also gives us good accounts of the government, its finances, &c. An embargo has been laid on all vessels to-day, to prevent .the news of Lord Cochrane's arrival from reaching Bahia. 15th. - I went early ashore to prepare for leaving the brig. I ob- served two of the arches, under which the Emperor had passed on the day of coronation, designed in extremely good taste, and well executed. They are of course only tenporary. Some more solid works have been executed, since I last saw Rio new fountains opened, aqueducts re- paired, all the forts and other public works visibly improved, and the streets new paved. There is besides every where an air of business. FF 2

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'V,, - :, 1.11. , ":. l , 1 - 1 I .a, - 11 I I- 1 ·,3' - r "1lir-

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RIO DE JANEIRO. -g This news is, of course, interesting here, as Portugal is considered to be implicated in the disputes in Europe; and then, the part Eng- land may take, and how that may affect this country, is a subject of anxious speculation. The more domestic news is not quite agree- able. The Imperial General Lecor, in the south, has suffered some loss in an action with the Portuguese: however, it is not consider- able enough to give any serious uneasiness. The same vessel that brought the news from Lecor, also gives intelligence that the head of the Buenos Ayrian government, Rodriguez, having taken the field against some Indian tribes, who have lately committed great ravages in his territories, an attempt was made by one of the ex- chiefs to subvert his government; happily, without success. I say happily, because I am convinced that every week and month passed without change, is of infinite consequence both to the present and future wellbeing of the Spanish colonies. While they had still to struggle for their independence, while they had to amend the abuses of their old government, frequent changes were unavoidable, but natural; but now that they are independent, and that they have constitutions, which, if not perfect, contain the principles of free- dom and greatness, those principles should have time and peace to grow, and to suit themselves to the genius of the people. 15th.-Glennie has been gaining so much strength lately, that he has determined on joining the Commodore at Bahia ; and this day he left me, to sail in His Majesty's ship Beaver. After having had him to attend to for six months, and being used to constant intercourse with an intelligent inmate, I feel so very lonely, that I believe I must leave off some of my sedentary habits, and visit a little among my neighbours. 25th.-A French brig of war came in to-day from Bahia. We learn that the ships seen by the Tartar were only a frigate, with a convoy of transports, on board of which was a reinforcement for Ma- deira of 1500 men. They will but increase the distress of the garri- son, which is represented as very great, as they have brought no provisions.

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* This man is brotr o the instructor of Catalani.

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RIO D JANEIRO. 225 The music ended, and who was not sorry at its conclusion ? the dancing commenced, and then those who like myself were not dancers sat by to gossip. An Englishman who has been in this country many years, seeing me full of admiration of the beautiful and gay creatures before me, began to give me such a picture of the pri- vate morals in Brazil, as was-beginning to darken their countenances and to dim their eyes, when luckily he went a step too far, and offered to wager, (the true English way of affirming,) that there were in that room not less than ten ladies, each provided with her note to slip into the hand of her gallant, and that the married and unmarried were alike; and -referred me to my friend M- , who has long been here, and knows the people well. He looked slowly round the room, and I began to fear,--but he said, No, not here; though I do not deny that such things are done in Rio. But, Mrs. G., do not "you know, as well as I, that in all great cities, in your country "and in mine as well as in this, a certain portion of every class of " society is less moral than the rest? In some countries immorality "is more refined indeed; and when manners lose their grossness, " they are stripped apparently of half their vice. But suppose the "fact, that women, even the unmarried, are less pure here than in "Europe, remember that with us, besides the mother, there is the "nurse of the family, or the governess, or even the waiting-maid of "every young woman, who is supposed to be well brought up, and of good character and morals. These are all checks on conduct, "and form a guardianship only inferior to a mother's. But here the "servants are slaves; therefore naturally the enemies of their masters, "and ready and willing to deceive them, by assisting in the corruption of their families." Here then is another curse of slavery; and this view of the subject has opened my eyes on many points, on which I have hitherto been wondering ignorantly. There were several very pleasant French naval officers here to- night, and a few, very few English. I conversed with some sensible and well-bred Brazilians, so that I was scarcely aware of the late- ness of the hour, when I left my younger friends dancing at midnight. G6

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While at the ball, the tragic story of two lovely girls was told me. When mere children, they had accompanied their mother to some gala, and on returning at night, just as the mother advanced from the carriage, sle was shot fom the veranda of her own house. All search for, the murderer was vain: but conjecture points to two possible eanses of the crime. One, the jealousy of a woman, who it seems had been injured, and who hoped to succeed her rival as the wife of the man she loved; but he has not married again. Another con- jecture is, that she was acquainted with some political secrets, and that fear caused her death. However it was, the girls have ever since lived with their grandmother, who cannot sleep if they are not both in the room with her. The family attachments here are quite beautiful; they are as close and as intimate as those of clanship in Scotand: but they have their inconveniences, in the constant inter- marriages between near relations, as uncles with their nieces, aunts with their nephews, &c.; so that marriages, instead of widening con- nections, diffusing property; and producing more general relations in the country, seems to narrow all these, to hoard wealth, and to withdraw all the affections into too close and.selfish a circle. 80th. -I went early to town, and found that the English packet had arrived. She fell in with Lord Cochrane's squadron near Bahia, so that His Lordship must be there long ere this time; she brings re- ports that the royalist party are becoming too strong for the Cortes at Lisbon. I spent the day with Madame do Rio Secb. Her house is really a magnificent. one; it has its ball-room, and its iusic-room, its grotto and fountains, besides extremely handsome apartments of every kind, both for family and public use, with rather more china and French clocks than we.should think of displaying, but which do not assort ill with the silken hangings and gilt mouldings of the rooms. The dinner was small, as we were only three persons, but ex- cellently dressed. Soup of wild-fowl, a variety of small birds, and sweetmeats of the country, were rarities to me: the rest of the din- ner might have been English or French it was served in plate. I

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heard a great many anecdotes to-day of a great many persons of all degrees, for which M. Dutems would have given any price to enrich the saownirs of the voyageur ui se repose withal, but which I will not write, because I think it neither honest nor womanly to take the protection of the laws and the feelings of a foreign country, and record the foibles of its inhabitants so as to give others the opportu- nity of laughing at them. We know well enough the weak parts of human nature: if they are treated tenderly, they may mend. Vice indeed may require the lash, but weakness and folly should meet with indulgence. In a society rising like this, I am persuaded that men may be flattered into virtue. If a general calls his soldiers brave before the battle, it becomes a point of honour to prove so. And were it in my power, I had rather persuade the Brazilians that they have every virtue under heaven, than make them so familiar with the least of their failings, as to lose the shame of it. May lIt. - I have this day seen the Val Longo; it is the slave- market of Rio. Almost every house in this very long street is a depot for slaves. On passing by the doors this evening, I saw in most of them long benches placed near the walls, on which rows of young creatures were sitting, their heads shaved, their bodies emaciated, and the marks of recent itch upon their skins. In some places the poor creatures were lying on mats, evidently too sick to sit up. At one house the half-doors were shut, and a group of boys and girls, apparently not above fifteen years old, and some much under, were leaning over the hatches, and gazing into the street with wondering faces. They were evidently quite new negroes. As I approached them, it appears that something about me attracted their attention; they touched one another, to be sure that all saw me, and then chat- tered in their own African dialect with great eagerness. I went and stood near them, and though certainly more disposed to weep, I forced myself to smile to them, and look cheerfully, and kissed my hand to them, with all which they seemed delighted, and jumped about and danced, as if returning my civilities. Poor things! I would not, if I could, shorten their moments of glee, by G 2

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RIO DE JANEIRO. 231 venture to speak Portuguese, I am becoming intimate with the elder part of the family I was taken into the study, and for the first time saw a Brazilian private gentleman's library. As he is a judge, of course the greater part is law; but there are history and general literature, chiefly French, and someEnglish books. I was introduced to several Portuguese authors j.,and Don.Carlota, who reads remark- ably well, did me the favour to read some of Dinia's fine verses to me, and. to lend me histworks. We then returned to our station at the window, and saw the procession return in the order in which it came, when our pleasant party dispersed. Yesterday, the assembly having finished its preliminary sittings, sent a deputation, headed by Jose Bonifacio, to His Imperial Majesty, to entreat .that he would honour the assembly with. his presence at their first sitting as a legislative body, and he was pleased to name half past eleven o'clock to-day for that purpose. * * Various ordinances of the d and 19th Jne and the sd of August, 1822, and of the S0th and 22d February, 182, had been published for the assembing or regulating the election of deputies from the provinces of Brail, to form acontituent assmbly. Early in April, 1289, the greater numberof those who could be collected in the proent sate of the country had arrived in the capital. On the l4th of that month, the Emperor fixed their firt meeting for the 17th. Accordingly on the 17th of April, 182, the deputies, i number 52, entered their house of amembly t nine o'clock in themorning, and proceded to elect a temporary president and secretary, when the Right Reverend Don Jose Caetano da Silva Coutinho, bishop and grand chaplain, was elected preident, and Mnoel Jose de Sousa Francs secretary. The first act ws to name two committees; one of five members, to hold a scrutiny on the election of the deputies goerally and ther of thr, te, elai» toise of.the fiw. This neeessny businaB, and some c nsequent discins . oocupiedsthe.whoh of. the »r nd greator.part of the econd stion towaed. thee dofths laer, the formof the ot to be administered to.the members, a deidd - " I wear to fulfil, faitlfuly and truly, the obligaions of depty to the tGeeral Cons aituent and Legisltive Assembly of Brail, con-oked in rde.t finme a politica "constitutio for the oempi of Bruzil, and to smake hdiaspeable ld ,argt reforms. Mahsininog always the Roma Catheli sad Apasollg rdigion, aldrthe , integrity and independence of the enpin l withsot admitting any oher nadn whatever to any bond of union or federation whioh might oppoe thtinependen. Maeint- "ing also the c i alpi, nd t he titil i, nd t dyasty of the Lord Don Peter our fit , Emperor, and his issue." The third. essio was occupied in regulating the fors of the assmbly. The thmne to be placed at one end of the halli on the firststep on the tlghthbd sd, the President shall have his chair when the Emperor preside, otherwise the chair to b in font of the throne,

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This morning, therefore, the people of Rio de Janeiro had strewed the way with evergreens, sweet herbs, and flowers, from the bridge without the town by the street of St. Peter's, the Campo de Santa Anna, now Praga da Acclamafao, the Theatre Square, and the streets Do Ouvidor and Direita to the palace; troops lined the whole space; the houses were decorated, and the bands of the different regiments relieved each other as their Imperial Majesties passed. I observe the Brazilians never say the Emperor, but our Emperor, our Empress; and seldom name either, without some epithet of affection. In the House of Assembly, a throne had been prepared for the Emperor, and on his right hand a tribune for the Empress, the Princess, and theirladies. As soon as it was known that the Imperial party had arrived, a deputation from the assembly went to the door of the house to meet them, and conducted the Emperor, with his crown* on his head, to the throne; the Empress, Princess, and ladies, being at the same time placed in the tribune. The Emperor having deposited the crown and sceptre with the proper officer, and received the oaths of several of the deputies, spoke as follows; and it was remarked, that so far from the speech having the air of a thing read from a paper or studied, that it was spoken as freely as if it was the spontaneous effusion of the moment, and excited a feeling as free in his favour. with a small table, separate from the table of the members, and on it the Gospel a copy of the constitution, and a list of the members. When the Emperor opens the assembly, his great offiers may accompany him, and the ministers may sit on his right; proper plaes are appointed for ambassadors, and a allery is open to strangers. Some other forms as to the reception of the Emperor, or a regen, or a minister commissioned by him, were also ettled; and then the 1st of May was fixed on for the whole body of the members to go to the chapel royal, and after hearing the mass of the Holy Ghost to take their oaths. The d was appointed for a deputation to wait on the Emperor, and inform him that they were ready to proceed on the 3d, and with his asistance to open the im- portat business on which they had met. * The crown is of a purple velvet, enriched with diamonds. There was some mistke or misunderstandig about the ft of the a crown at the opening of the asembly. As the own i only a ceremonial badge of dignity, it should have bee worn during the ceremony; but oing to the mitake alluded to, it was not.

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RIO DE JANEIRO. ft "This is the greatest day that Brazil has ever seen; a day on " which, for the first time, it may show that it is an empire, and a "free empire. How great is my delight, to behold real represent- "atives from almost every one of its provinces, consulting together "on its true interests, and on these founding a just and liberal con- "stitution to govern them ! We ought long since to have enjoyed "a national representation. But either the nation did not in time "perceive its real interests, or, perceiving them, was unable to declare "them, on account of the forces and ascendancy of the Portuguese "party; which, perceiving clearly to what a degree of weakness, "littleness, and poverty, Portugal was reduced, and to how low a "state it had fallen, would never consent (notwithstanding their "proclamation of liberty, fearing a separation,) that the people of "Brazil should enjoy a representation equal to what they themselves "then possessed. They had miscalculated their plans for conquest, "and from that miscalculation arises our good fortune. " Brazil, which for upwards of three hundred years had borne the "degrading name of a colony, and had suffered all the evils arising "fromthe destructive system then pursued,exulted withpleasure when "my Lord Don John VI., King of Portugal and Algarve, my august "father, raised it to the dignity of a kingdom, by his decree of the "16th of December, 1815; but Portugal burned with rage, and "trembled with fear. The delight which the inhabitants of this vast "continent displayed on the occasion was unbounded; but the politic "measure was not followed up, as it ought to have been, by another, "that is, by the convocation of an assembly to organise the new "kingdom. " Brazil, always frank in her mode of proceeding, and mortified at "having borne the yoke of iron so long, both before and after that ' measure echoed the cry for the constitution of Portugal, imme- "diately on the proclamation of liberty in Portugal; expecting that "after this proof of confidence given to her pseudo brethren, they "would assist her to deliver herself from the vipers that were con- "suming her entrails, and little thinking she should be deceived. H

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" peared to me that Brazil would be ruined, ifI did not attend to the "petitions; and I did attend to them. I know that this was my duty, "though at the risk of mylife; but as it was in defence of this em- " pire, it was ready, as it is now, and ever, when it shall be requisite. I had scarcely pronounced the words, 4s it isfor the good of all, and " the general happiness of the nation, tell the people that Iremain, recom- "mending to them at the same time mion and tranquillity, when I " began to take measures to put ourselves in a state to meet the attacks *" of our enemies; then concealed, since unmasked; one part among "ourselves, the rest in the Portuguese democratic Cortes; providing "for all the departments, especially those of the treasury and foreign "affairs, by such means as prudence dictated, and which I shall not "mention here, because they will be laid before you in proper time " by the different officers of state. " The public treasury was in the very worst state, as the receipts " had been much reduced; and, principally, because till within four "or five months they had been solely those of this province. On "this account it was not possible to raise money for all that was "necessary, as we had already too little to pay the public creditors, "or those employed in effective service, and to maintain my "household, which cost one-fourth of that of the King, my august "father. His disbursements exceeded four millions; mine did not " amount to one. But although the diminution was so considerable, "I could not be satisfied when I found that my expenses were so " disproportioned to the reduced receipts of the treasury; and there- "fore I resolved to live as a private man, receiving only 110,000 "milrees for the whole expenses of my household, excepting "the allowance of the Empress, my much-beloved and valued wife, "which was assigned to her by her marriage contract. " Not satisfied with these small savings in my household with " which I commenced, I examined into every department, as was my "duty, in order to regulate its expenditure, and to check its abuses. "Yet, still the revenue did not suffice; but by changing some indi- "viduals not well affected to the cause of the empire, but only to that HH 2'

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RIO DE JANEIRO. 287 "theless, there remain untouched, the gratuitous contributions; the "sequestrated property of the absentees on account of political "opinions; the loan of 400,000 milrees for the purchase of ships of ( war indispensably necessary for the defence of the empire, and ."which exists entire; and the exchequer of the administration of "diamonds. In every department there was an urgent necessity for reform; but in this of finance still more, because it is the chief spring of the "state. " The army had neither arms, men, nor discipline: with regard to arms, it is now perfectly ready; the men are increasing daily in "proportion to the population; and in discipline it will soon be per- "feet, being already in obedience exemplary. I have twice sent assistance to Bahia: first 240 men, then 785, forming a battalion "called the Emperor's Battalion; which in eight days was chosen, "prepared, and sailed. " Besides these, a foreign regiment has been raised, and a battalion , of artillery of freed men, which will shortly be completed. " In the military arsenal they have wrought diligently to prepare "every thing necessary for the defence of the different provinces; and all, from Pariba of the North to Montevideo, have received the - assistance they have requested. -' The walls of the fortifications of this city were totally ruined: "they are now repaired; and important works necessary in the i arsenal itself have been finished. ' As to military works, the walls of all the fortresses have been , repaired, and some entirely new-constructed. These are formed in "the different points fittest to oppose any enemy's force approaching "by sea ; and in the defiles of the hills, to oppose the approach of an enemy already landed, (which would not be easy,) entrenchments, forts, redoubts, abatis, and batteries. The barracks of the Carioca are built, and the other barracks are prepared. That in the Praqa da Acclamaqao is almost finished, and that ordered for the grena- "diers will shortly be so.

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RIO DE JANEIRO. 289 not touched on, the funds for these works, which in April, 1821, "owed 60 coltos of rees, now is not only out of debt, but possesses "upwards of 600,000 crusadoes. " In different departments we have made the following progress. "We have greatly increased the national typography; the public "gardens have been put in order; the museum repaired, and en- "riched with minerals and a gallery of good pictures,-someof which a were purchased, some were already in the publictreasury, andothers "were my private property, which I have ordered to be placed there. " Every exertion has been made on the Caes da Praya de Com- "mercio, so that it is nearly finished; the streets of the city have been "new-paved; and in a very short time this house for the assembly, "with all the rest adjoining, were properly fitted for their purpose. " Many works which are of less importance have been undertaken, "begun, and finished; but I omit them, that I may not render my " speech too long. " I have encouraged the public schools, as far as I could; but this " will demand some peculiar provision of the legislature. What has "been done is this - In order to augment the public library I have "bought a large collection of choice books; I have augmented the "number of schools, and increased the salary of some of the masters, "besides licensing innumerable private schools; and, aware of the "benefits of the method of mutual instruction, I have opened a " Lancasterian school. " I.found the college of San Joaquim, which had been designed by "its founders for the education of youth, employed as the hospital of the European troops. I caused it to be opened anew, for the "purposes originally intended; and having granted to the Casa de " Misericordia, and the foundling hospital, of which I will speak "farther, a lottery for the better maintenance of those useful institu- " tions, I assigned a certain portion of the said lottery to the college "of San Joaquim, that it might the better answer the useful end "which its worthy founders had in view. It is now full of students. " The first time I visited the foundling hospital, I found (and it

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"when some of them were adopted the assembly had not been con- " voked, and when others were necessary it had not yet met; there- "fore, as Brazil was totally independent of Portugal, the three powers ' then existed in fact and by right in the person of the supreme ' chief of the nation, and much the more as he was its perpetual "defender. " It is true that some measures appeared extremely strong; but as "the peril was imminent, and the enemies who surrounded us were "innumerable (and would to God they were not even now so many), "it was necessary they should be proportionate. " I have not spared myself; nor will I ever spare toil, however "great, if from it the smallest portion of happiness can be derived "to the nation. " When the people of the rich and majestic province of Minas "were suffering under the iron yoke of their mistaken governors, "who disposed of it as they pleased, and obliged the pacific and " gentle inhabitants to disobey me, I marched thither, only attended "by my servants: I convicted the government and its creatures of "the crime they had committed, and of the error in which they " seemed desirous of persisting; I pardoned them, because the crime "was more an offence against me, than against the nation, as we were then united to Portugal. " When a party of Portuguese and degenerate Brazilians attached "to the Cortes of miserable, worn-out Portugal, arose among the " brave people of the beautiful and delightful province of St. Paul's, "I instantly repaired thither, and entered the province fearlesly, ' because I ke the people loved me. I took the measures that ap- " peared to me to be necessary; and there, before any other place, "our independence was declared, in the ever-memorable plain of "Piranga. " It was at the country seat of the most faithful, and never- " enough praised Amador Bueno de Rebeira, that I was first pro- claimed Emperor. -1i

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RIO DE JANEIRO. 248 "they may never arrogate rights not their own; but shall be so or. ganised and harmonised, that it shall be impossible for them, even "in the lapse of time, to become inimical to each other, but shall "every day jointly contribute to the general happiness of the state. "In short, a constitution which shall oppose insuperable barriers to "despotism, whether royal, aristocratic, or democratic; defeat anar- "chy; and plant that tree of liberty under whose shadow the ho- " nour, tranquillity, and independence of this empire, which will be- " come the admiration of the Old and New World, must grow. " All the constitutions which have modelled themselves upon "those of 1791 and 1792, have been shown by experience to be en- "tirely theoretical and metaphysical, and therefore impracticable. " Witness those of France, Spain, and Portugal: they have not, as " they ought, produced public happiness; but after a licentious free- "dom, we see that in some countries there has already taken place, "and in others there is on the point of doing so, a despotism of one, "after that of many; and, by a necessary consequence, the people ' are reduced to the wretched state of registering and suffering all "the horrors of anarchy. " But far from us be such melancholy reflections: they darken "the joy and exultation of this happy day. You are not ignorant "of them; and I am sure, that firmness in those true constitutional Uviews, which have been sanctioned by experience, will chara- "terise every one of the deputies who compose this illustrious assem- " by. I trust, that the constitution which you will frame will merit "my Imperial assent; that it will be as wise and just as suited " to the local situation and to the civilisation of the Brazilian peo- " pe: also that it may be praised among the nations, so that even "our enemies may imitate the sanctity and wisdom of its principles, and at length practise them. " So illustrious and patriotic an assembly will have in view no "object but to cause the empire to prosper, and to fill it with happi- " ness: it will wish its Emperor to be respected, not only at home " but among foreign nations; and that its Perpetual Defender should ii2

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RIO DE JANEIRO. 245 And indeed this night that eloquence was powerful. I cannot con- ceive a situation more full of interest to both prince and people. There was nothing in the principal piece played to-night, for it was a clumsy translation of Lodoiska, without the songs. But the after-piece excited much emotion: it was called " The Discovery of Brazil." Cabral and his officers were represented as just landed: they had discovered the natives of the country; and, according to the custom of the Portuguese discoverers, they had set up their white flag, with the red holy cross upon it, whence they had first named the land. At the foot of this emblem they kneeled in worship, and endeavoured to induce the wild Brazilians to join them in their sacred rites. These, on their part, tried to persuade Cabral to reverence the heavenly bodies, and dissension seemed about to trouble the union of the new friends, when by a clumsy enough machine, a little genius came down from above, and leaping from its car, displayed the new Imperial standard, inscribed Independencia o Morte. This was totally unexpected in the house, which, for an instant, seemed electrified into silence. I believe I clapped my hands first, but the burst of feeling that came from every part of the house was long ere it subsided. Now I know nothing so overpowering, as that sort of unanimous expression of deep interest, from any large body of men. It overset me; and when I ought to have been waving my handkerchief decorously from the great chamberlain's box, I was hiding my face with it, and weeping heartily. When the house was quiet again, I looked at Don Pedro: he had become very pale, and had drawn a chair close to his own; on the back of which he leaned, and was very grave to the end of the piece, having his hand before his eyes for some time; and, indeed, his quick feelings could not have escaped what affected even strangers. At the close of the piece there were loud cries of" Viva la Patria !" "Viva o Emperador!" "Viva a Emperatriz!" "Vivao os Deputados!" all originating in the body of the house; when Martim Francisco de Andrada stepped to the front of one of the boxes of the Deputies, and cried" Viva o povo leal e fiel do Rio de Janiero !" a cry that was

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* Nearly 000 fet high.

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". "T-brar~·urrul

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ji ~ The ship has brought two or three newRspapets .o . ast. as might be expected, they. breathe t -oe M t violent.'nd live- terate spirit against the Imperil government, and.every body ern ployed by it calling the Emperor a Turkish despot, a 'sultanv &c, and Jos Bonifacio a tyrannic vrier. Lord Coch ,. of coue does not escape; and to al old cudmnies againt him,they no add that he is a coward, for which agreeable copliments they are likely to pay dearly I should think. The Spplement to.the Idade d'rOn of the 25th of April gives lists of the two squadrom, drawn upfor the purpose of inspiring confidence in the Ptgese, unde-rating the force of Lord Cochrane's ships, and representing them as so il manned,-although, according to them, the most oppressive measures were adopted to man them,-as not to be able to ficethe Portuguese. However, they have thought fit to call in all their vessels from the Funil and other stations w.he they had their sinall ships placed, in order to reinforce their fleet.* They have published a circular letter, Bos2ip . * Bilim lpl. lisof-bttle ship D. PedL L - 64 gns,realy, - rs gaun Fig stnii - - . - do. - s Frigsat Csrollna . J6 d- do 44 Frigate Seeo· - . - do. - as Cs tMa ia0i .-2 _ do. - 5 Coatne Libsd - 2. - do. - 2 Schoone Ral -16 - do. - 18 . - Nightingae - so Total 250 gsa5. - .- So0 There is besides oe fire-ship and one gun.boat.. Now Nithkriy.

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ljord ocnrne na c hosen as neau-quarters luor te squaron, me harbour behind the Moro of San Paulo, about thirty miles south of Bahia, and commanding the channel behind Itaparica; a country well watered and wooded, and in the neighbourhood of all supplies of fresh necessaries. There is good and sheltered anchorage in from seven to twenty fathoms water, and on the whole it was well adapted for its purpose. As soon as it was known that His Lordship was off

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* One ship f the line, five frigts, five corvettes, a brig, and a sbooner. xx 2

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22d, -This is the eve of St. John's, whereon the maidens of Brazil practise some of the same rites as those of Scotland do at Hallow- e'en, to ascertain the fate of their loves. They burn nuts together; they put their hands, blindfold, on a table, with the letters of the alphabet; and practise many a simple conjuration. I think I recollect long ago, to have seen the maid-servants of a house in Berkshire place an herb, I think a kind of stone-crop, behind the door, calling it Midsummer men, that was to chain the favoured youth as he entered. For me I only wish for the nucca drop of the Arab to fall this night, so I might catch it, and be relieved from my weary sickness. June 26th. - My friend, Dr. Dickson, who has attended me all this time with unvarying kindness, having advised change of air for me, he and Mr. May have pitched on a small house on Botafogo beach, having an upper story, which is considered as an advantage here, the ground-floor houses being often a little damp; and to-day Captain Willis of the Brazen brought me in his boat to my new dwelling. My good neighbours, Colonel and Mrs. Cunningham, try by their hospitality to prevent my feeling so much the loss of my friends Mr. and Mrs. May, who were every thing kind to me while at the Gloria. Botafogo bay is certainly one of the most beautiful scenes in the world; but, till of late years, its shores were little inhabited by the higher classes of society. At the farthest end there is a gorge between the Corcovado mountain and the rocks belonging to what may be called the Sugar-loaf group, which leads to the Lagoa of Rodrigo Freites, through which gorge a small rivulet of fine fresh water runs to the sea. Just at its mouth, there has long been a village inhabited by gipsies, who have found their way hither, and preserve much of their peculiarity of appearance and character in this their trans-atlantic home.. They conform to the religion of the country in all outward things, and belong to the parish of which the curate, of Nossa Senhora da Monte is pastor; but their conformity does not appear to have influenced their moral habits. They employ

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"the midst of formidable armies, measures of precaution are daily " used; because victory is not constant, and reverses should be " provided against. You may assure yourselves, that the measures- I am now taking are purely precautionary : but it is necessary to communicate them to you, because if it happens that we must "abandon the city, many of you will leave it also; and I should be "responsible to the nation and to the King, if I had not forewarned "you. (Signed) IGNACIO LUIs MADEIRA DE MELLO. " Head-quarters, Bahia, May 28. 182s." This proclamation increased the general alarm to the highest pitch. The editors of even the Portuguese newspapers use the strongest language. One of them says, " The few last days, we have witnessed "in this city a most doleful spectacle, that must touch the heart ' even of the most insensible: a panic terror has seized on all men's "minds," &c. * And then goes on to anticipate the horrors of a city left without protectors, and of families, whose fathers being obliged to fly, should be left like orphans, with their property, a prey to the invaders. These fears abated a little on the 2d of June, when a vessel entered Bahia,having on board 3000 alquieres of farinha; and the spirits of the troops were raised by a slight advantage obtained on the 3d over the patriots. But the relief was of short duration. On a rigorous search there were found in the city no more than six weeks' provisions besides those necessary for the ships, and the General proceeded in his preparations for quitting Brazil. He now allowed the magistrates to resume their functions suspended by the declaration of martial-law, and produced a letter from the King, naming five persons to form a provisional govern- ment; and though some of them were unwilling to accept of the office, he caused them to take the oaths, and enter directly on their functions. * enrio Civico of the th June.

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* On the 9th of March, an Imperial edict was published ds hig all sh as would not conformto the laws of the empie to qit it ithin two months; if they dwelt on th coast, and within four, if in-land, on pain of loss of property; and henceforth all good subjec tsowear on their ams the gree rose and gold badge, with Indepcdenleca Mrte, engraved on it, L L

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RIO DE JANEIRO. 259 intelligence to that effect, had come alone in the Pedro Primeiro to look into the harbour, on the morning of the 2d, when he saw the Portuguese squadron loose all their topsails and prepare to move. This manceuvre was not considered by the English within the bay as decisive, because it had been practised daily for some time. His Lordship, however, immediately made signals to the Maria de Gloria and Nitherohy to join him with all despatch. The Piranga, useless from her bad sailing, owing to the state of her copper, had been ordered to Rio; and she and.the Liberal, who both arrived to-day, are the bearers of the official intelligence. Lord Cochrane, whose kindness is neve-failing, writes to me as follow. I. do not like to quote, even in my journal, private letters; but this is short, and tells in few words all that can be said: - " MY DEAR MADAM, "I have been grieved to learn your indisposition; but you must "recover, now that I tell you we have starved the enemy out of "Bahia. The forts were abandoned this morning; and the men of "war, 13 in number, with about 32 sail of transports and merchant "vessels, are under sail. We shall follow (i. e. the Maria da Gloria "and Pedro Primeiro) to the world's end. I say again expect good news. Ever believe me your sincere and respectful friend; U CoCHRANE " d July, 182. "Eight miles north of Babia." I learn from the officers of the ships arrived, that the guns were all spiked, and the magazines blown up in Port Pedro, but otherwise every thing was left in good order in the town and on the marching in of the Brazilian troops not the smallest disorder took place, nor was a life lost; a circumstance highly honourable to all parties. Though the Admiral mentions only fortyfive vessels, it appears that there were many more, amounting to at least eighty, who took the opportunity of getting-out.with the fleet. When the Piranga · left the Moro, a reinforcement of men had arrived there for the LL 2

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These things, however, are capable of a favourable interpretation; and, in such stormy times, some severity may have been necessary, or, indeed, the zeal of the minister may have carried him too far.* However that may be, the resignation of Jose Bonifacio is certain; and not less so that of his brother, Martim Francisco, whose unim- peachable integrity at the head of the treasury it will not be easy to supply. The conjectures, reasonings, and reports, on these subjects, are, of course, very various. The most general idea is, that the Andradas are overpowered by a republican party in the assembly; which, though small, has a decided plan, and works accordingly; and, oddly enough, their fall is said to have been brought about by an attempt, on their part, to get rid of old monarchy men. Monis Tavares, a clever man, whose name will be remembered in the sittings of the Lisbon Cortes as an advocate for Brazil, proposed in an early sitting of the assembly, May 22, the absolute expulsion from Brazil of all persons born in Portugal. The proposal gave rise to a warm discussion, and was negatived. This defeat was the signal for all the Portuguese party, and they are not weak, to join with the republi- cans to overthrow the Andradas; and they have succeeded. Such is the view taken of this business by many intelligent persons. How- ever the fact may be, the Emperor's feeling to disclaim all tyranny or connivance at tyranny, is praiseworthy; but a well-wisher to Brazil may be permitted to desire that such able men had proved their innocence to his satisfaction, and had retained their situations. This evening the Emperor has circulated the following address to his people:- "Inhabitants of Brazil,, The government which does not guide itself by public opinion, "or which is ignorant of it, must become the scourge of humanity. The monarch who knows, not this truth will precipitate his empire * The discussions i the assembly of the 9th of May throw much light on this tras- action.

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262 aJOURNAL: "into a gulf of misfortunes, each more terrible than the preceding. Providence has granted to me the knowledge of this truth. I have founded my system on it, and to that system I will be faithful. " Despotism and arbitrary acts are detested by me. It is but a " short time since that I gave you one among many other proofs of "this. We may all be deceived; but monarchs rarely hear the "truth: if they do not seek it, it seldom appears to them. When " once they know it, they should follow it. I have known it, and I do act accordingly. Although'we have not yet a fixed eonsti- " tution to govern ourselves by, we have at least those foundations " for one, built on reason, which ought to be inviolable. These are '".the sacred rights of personal security, property, and the inviola- " bility of the home of every citizen. If these have hitherto been " violated, it was because your Emperor knew not that such despot- "isma and. acts of arbitrary power, improper at all times, and con- - trary to the system we profess, were exercised Be assured that " henceforth they shall be religiously supported: you shall live happy ' and safe in the bosoms of your families, in the arms of your tender " wives, and surrounded by your beloved children. In vain shall imprudent men try to belie my constitutional principles; they will always triumph, as the sun breaks through the darkest clouds. Rely upon me, as I on you, and you will see democracy and des- "potism annihilated by rational liberty. .- . . . " THE ErPEOR." The address has been well received; and perhaps those incidents, which, in a time like the present, bring the monarch and people more together, are really conducive to the harmony and stability of the whole political system. Meantime, JoseJoaquim Carneiro de Campos is prime minister, and Manoel Jacintho Noguerra de Gama is at the head of the treasury; a man so rich as to be above temptation, and whose character for integrity is scarcely lower than that of his predecessor.

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July 2Sd -I had for some time promised to paint a sketch of San Cristavao for the Empress, and to-day I resolved to carry it to her. So I went, and on my way breakfasted at my good friend the Viscondega do Rio Seco's; 1 then proceeded to the palace, and went up first to enquire after the Emperor's health: while I was writing my name, he, having perceived me arrive from the. window, politely sent to say he would see me, and accordingly I was ushered into the presence-chamber by the Viador Don Luiz da Ponte; there I saw ministers and generals all in state. The Emperor was in a small inner room, where were his piano, his shooting apparatus, &c.; he was in an undressed cotton jacket with his arm in a sling, but looking well, although thinner and paler than formerly: he sent for the little picture, with which he seemed much pleased; and after speaking for some time very politely in French, I made my courtesy and retired; I then went to the Empress's apartment: she was out, but I was asked to wait for her return from her walk; and in the meantime I saw the young Princesses, who are extremely fair, and like Her Imperial Majesty, especially the eldest, Dona Maria da Gloria, who has one of the most intelligent faces I have seen. The Empress came in soon, and talked to me a good while on a variety of subjects, and very kindly of my late illness. Setting aside the consideration of her high rank, it is not a little pleasing to me to meet so well- educated and well-bred a woman; and I felt quite sorry to leave her without telling her so: she is in all respects an amiable and respect- able woman. No distressed person ever applies to her in vain; and her conduct, both public and private, justly commands the admiration and love of her family and subjects: her personal accomplishments would adorn the station of a private gentlewoman; her temper, pru- dence, and courage, fit her for her high situation. On my way back to town I stopped at a country-house belonging to M. d Rio Seco it is called Rio Comprido, and is remarkable for its garden; the outer hedge of which is like a fairy bower, or rather might adorn the gar- dens ofArmida. A fence, breast-high, ofmyrtle and other evergreens,

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is surmounted by arcades of ever-blowing roses; among which a jessamine, or a scarlet or purple creeper, twines itself occasionally, en- riching the flowery cornice of the pillars between which the paths of entrance lie. The inner part one might indeed wish less stiff; but then all is kept in such order, ard filled with such rich flowers and shrubs, that one knows not how the change might be made with ad- vantage. The house is low, and pleasant for the climate; the orchard, kitchen garden, and grass fields behind, delightful; and the whole is surrounded by beautiful views. The Padre Jose, who is the chaplain, is also the overseer of the estate; a combination of offices that I find is usual here. After passing some hours there with my hospitable friends, I re- turned to town, and spent an hour with my friend Dona Carlota de Carvalho e Mello, and met a number of the ladies of her family; and among the rest, her aunt, the wife of Manoel Jacintho, the new minister of finance, one of the most pleasing women I have seen in Brazil. I had the pleasure of complimenting Dons Carlota's father, on having just received his commission as member of the assembly for Bahia, now it is free: I might, with truth, have complimented Bahia on so judicious a choice. I returned home early, notwithstand- ing the entreaties of my young friend that I would stay, as she considered the evening scarcely begun: the family is so large, that, at the house of one or the other, there is always a pleasant evening society. The men converse apart till tea-time, after which music or dancing brings at least the younger part to join the ladies; and it is seldom that they separate before midnight. July 5th. - Our society at Botafogo is enlivened by the arrival of Commodore Sir T. Hardy, who occupies the house of the disembar- gador Franca, and who is not only cheerful and sociable himself, but causes cheerfulness around him. The officers of his own ship, and those of the rest of the squadron, are of course great acquisitions to the parties at Rio; but I see little of them: my dull house, and duller self, offering nothing inviting except to the midshipmen of my

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* For this beast, which is really fit ft nothing but the riding of a invalid like myself I gave 35 milrees; a price for which, in Chile, one might buy a very fine horse. MM

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v

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"""r-""J' t"- "-"t ..I.lUO atUO5urtIc, auu ensmes wmcn

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RIO DE JANEIRO. 269 would merit the severest punishment, but for the consideration that they were suggested by ignorance, or produced by base deceptions. "Listen not therefore to those who flatter the people, or to those who flatter the monarch: they are equally base, and moved by per- sonal and low interests; and under the mask of liberality or that of servility, seek alike, only to rear their proud and precarious fortunes on the ruins of their country. The times in which we live are full of melancholy warnings. Let us use the catastrophes of foreign nations as beacons. " Brazilians! confide in your Emperor and Perpetual Defender, who seeks no legal powers; nor will he ever suffer those to be usurped which belong to him of right, and which are indispensable in order. that you may be happy, and that this empire may fulfil the high destinies suited to its boundaries of the wide Atlantic, and the proud floods of the Plata and the Amazons. Let us await reverently the constitution of the empire, and let us hope that it may be worthy of us. "May tha Supreme Disposer of the Universe grant us union and tranquillity, strength and constancy; and the great work of our liberty and independence will be accomplished " THE ExPERORo." 9th August. - The day on which the Pes de Chumbo predicted an insurrection has passed in perfect tranquillity, excepting for one me- lancholy accident. Their Imperial Majesties, as had been appointed, went to the Gloria church to return thanks for the Emperor's reco- very. They were attended by the officers of state, and of the house- hold, and as many officers of the different regiments as could attend. While the company were all on their knees, and just as the sacring- bell announced the elevation of the Host, the Chamberlain, Magal- haens, was struck with apoplexy, and died. 12th.--This day, as well as yesterday and the day before, there have been illuminations and dressed operas on account of the Em- peror's recovery; and to-night a vessel, prize to the squadron, arrived,

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will be unattainable. The African curiosities are scarcely better kept, but some of them are very curious in their kind. One very remarkable one is a king's dress made of ox-gut, not in the state is valiant des cubes, but carefully cleaned and dried, as we do bladders. It is then split longitudinally, and the pieces sewed together, each seam'being set withtufta or rather fringes of purple feathers; so that the'vest is light, impervious to rain,. and highly ornamental from its rich purple stripes.' 'There is ather entirely of rich Mazarine blue feathers; a sceptre most ingeniously wrought of scarlet feathers; and acap of bark,'with a long projeetiig-beak in front, and a quantity of coloured feathers and hair behind, ornamented with beads. Besides all these things, there is the throne of an African prince of wood, beautifully carved. I could wish, since the situation of Brazil is so favourable for collecting African costume, that there were a room appropriated to these things, as they are curious in the history of man. . 15th. -The. feast of Our Lady of the Assumption, called here Nossa Senhora da Gloria, the patroness of the' Emperor's eldest child, is celebrated to-day, and of course the whole of the royal family attended Mass in the morning and evening. - I was spending the day with Mrs. May, at her pleasant house on the Gloria hill, and we agreed to go in the afternoon to see the ceremony. The church is situated on a platform, rather more than half way up a steep eminence overlooking the bay. The body is an octagon of thirty- two feet diameter; and the choir, of the same shape, istwenty-on feet in diameter. We entered among a great crowd of persons, and placed ourselves within the choir; and shortly afterwards the Imperial party entered, and I was not disagreeably surprised at being most pleasantly recognised. The salutationi as this evening's service is called, was well performed as to music, and very short, after it, for the first time, I heard a Portuguese sermon. It was of- course occasional. The text, 1 Kings, chap. ii. ver. 19.-" And " the king rose up to meet his mother, and bowed himself unto her, "and sat down on his throne, and caused a seat to be set for the

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almost grudged my gayer companions their ball,.which broke in upon that " sober certainty of waking bliss," which music. inspires into all, and especially to those who have known sorrow. I am no musician; but sweet sounds, especially those of the human voice, whether in speaking or singing, have a singular power over me. After the first dance was over, we walked all about the house, and found a magnificent dining-room as to size, but scarcely furnished to correspond with the rest of the house; the bed-rooms and dressing- rooms of the ladies are neat and elegantly fitted up with English and French furniture; and all as different as possible from the houses I saw in Bahia. I am told that they are likewise as different from what they were here twenty years since, and can well believe it; even during the twelve months of my absence from Rio, I see a won- derful polishing has taken place, and every thing is gaining an Euro- pean air. I took the liberty of remarking to one of the ladies, the extreme youth of some of the children who accompanied their mothers this evening; and saying, that in England we should consider it injurious to them in all respects. She asked me what we did with them. I told her that some of them would be in bed, and others with their nurses and governesses. She said we were happy in that: but that here, there were no such persons, and that the children would be left to the care and example of the slaves, whose manners were sp depraved, and practices so immoral, that it must be the destruction of the children; and that those who loved their children must keep them under their own eyes, where, if they were brought too forward in company, they at least could learn no ill. I love to collect these proofs of the evils of slavery - even here where it exists in a milder form than in most countries. - I left the dancers busily engaged at twelve o'clock, and I heard that they continued the ball until three. There is no peculiarity in the dancing here; the ladies of Rio being like ourselves, the pupils of the French, in that branch of the fine arts. N N

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tendant Antonio, the merriest of negroes, on a mule, with Mr. Dam- pier's portmanteau behind, and my bag before him. - We proceeded I

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Their dress is very picturesque. It consists of an oval cloak, lined and bordered with some bright colour such as-rose or apple green, worn as the Spanish Americans wear the poncho. The sides are often turned up over the shoulders, and display a bright coloured jacket below. The breeches are loose, and reach to the knee, and loose boots of brown leather are frequently seen on the better sort, though it is very common to see the spurs upon the naked heel, and no boot or shoe of any kind. The higher classes have generally handsome pistols or great knives, the others content themselves with a good cudgel. A short league from the last house of Campinha, brought us to Affonsos, where we presented our letter, and were most kindly welcomed. -The estate belongs in fact to the grand- mother of Senhor Joao Marcus, who is a native of St. Catherine's, and a widow. His mother, and sister, and brother, and two dumb cousins also reside here, but he is only an occasional visitor, being married, and living near his wife's family. The dumb ladies, no longer young, are very interesting; they are extremely intelligent, under- standing most things said in Portuguese by the motion of the lips, so that their cousin spoke in French, when he wished to say any thing of them ; they make themselves understood by signs, many of which, I may say most, would be perfectly intelligible to the pupils of Sicard or Braidwood. They are part of a family of eight children, four of whom are dumb, the dumb and the speakers being born alternately. One of them made breakfast for us, which consisted of coffee, and various kinds of bread and butter. After breakfast, as the day continued cold and showery, we were easily prevailed on by our host to remain all day at Affonsos. I was indeed glad of the opportunity of spending a whole day with a country family. The first place we visited after breakfast was the sugar-mill, which is worked by mules. The machinery is rather coarse, but seems to answer its purpose. . The estate employs 200 oxen and 180 slaves as labourers, besides those for the service of the family. The produce is somewhere about 3000 arobas of sugar, and 70 pipes of spirits. The lands extend from

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a"78~ ~ JOURNAL. Taperas the place where we met the travellers, and where 200 years ago there was an adea of reclaimed Indians, about a league to Pira- qura. There are about forty white tenants who keep vendas, and -other useful shops on the borders of the estate near the roads, and exercise the more necessary handicrafts. But a small portion of the estate is in actual cultivation, the rest being covered with its native woods; but these are valuable as fuel for the sugar-furnaces, and timber for machinery, and occasionally for sale. The owners of estates prefer hiring either free blacks, or negroes let out by their masters*, to send into the woods, on account of the numerous accidents that happen in felling the trees, particularly in steep situ- ations. The death of an estate negro is the loss of his value, of a hired negro, only that of a small fine; and of a free black, it is often the saving even of his wages, if he has no son to claim them. Wheat does not grow in this part of Brazil, though in the southern and inland mountainous districts it thrives admirably. The luxury of wheaten bread is introduced everywhere, North America fur- nishing the flour. Wherever one travels in this neighbourhood, one is sure of excellent rusk at every vends, though soft bread is rare. The sugar-canes are planted here during the months of March, April, May, and even June and July.. In the ridges between them maize and kidney-beans are planted, tle cultivation of which is fa- vourable to the sugar-cane: first the beans are gathered in, when the ground is weeded, and cleared, and loosened around the roots of the canes; then the maize is pulled, when a second weeding and clearing takes place; after which the sugar is tall enough to shade the ground, and prevent the growth of weeds. The first canes are ripe about May. The Cayenne cane yields best, and thrives in low grounds, the soil a mixture of sand and loam. The Creole cane takes the hill, and, though less productive, is supposed to yield sugar of a better quality. The cool months from May to September are the properest for boiling sugar. After October, the canes yield less juice by one- *The wages from a patac and half to two pats per day, besides food.

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eighth, sometimes by one-fourth, and nearly as much more is lost in claying by the lightness of the sugar, the pots of three arobas not returning after the operation more than two and a half at most. The clay used in refining the sugar is dug close to the mill; it feels soft and fat in the fingers. It is placed in a wooden trough, with aquantity of lie made by steeping the twigs of a small shrub, which has a taste of soda*, and worked up and down with a machine, somethipg like a churn-staff, until it is of the consistence of thick cream, when it is ready for use. I suppose that the main business of expressing the juice, boiling it, and drying the sugars, as well as cleansing them, are carried on here as in every part of the world, though probably there may be some difference in every country, or even in every sugar-work; nor can the distilling the spirits be very different. Nothing is wasted in a sugar-house; the trash that remains after the canes are pressed, when dried, assists as fuel in heating the furnaces; the sweet refuse water that runs off from the still is eagerly drank by the oxen, who always seem to fatten on it. By the time we had examined the sugar-work, and seen the garden, it was two o'clock, and we were summoned to dinner. Every thing was excellent in its kind, with only a little more garlic than is used in English cookery. On the side-table there was a large dish of dry farinha, which the elder part of the family called for and used instead of bread. I preferred the dish of farinha moistened with broth, not unlike brose, which was presented along with the bouillie and sliced saussage after the soup. The mutton was from the estate, small and very sweet. Every thing was served up on English blue and white ware. The table-cloths and napkins were of cotton diaper, and there was a good deal of plate used, but not displayed. After dinner some of the family retired to the siesta; others occupied them- selves in embroidery, which is very beautiful, and the rest in the business of the house, and governing the female in-door slaves, who * This i brought t tthe Engenhos of the ditrict from the Iake of Jaarepagu. I had no opportunity of seeing the whole plant. i

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On retiring to my room at night, a handsome young slave entered, with a large brass pan of tepid water, and a fringed towel over her arm, and offered to wash my feet. She seemed disappointed when I told her I never suffered any body to do that for me, or to assist me in undressing at any time. In the morning she returned, and removing the foot bath, brought fresh towels, and a large embossed silver basin and ewer, with plenty of tepid water; which she left without saying a word, and told her mistress I was a very quiet person, and, she supposed, liked nobody but my own people, so she would not disturb me. FrHday, August 22d.-The day as fine as possible; and after break- fast we pursued our journey to Santa Cruz, the road improving in beauty as we proceeded. " Hee lofty trees to ancient song uknown, The noble sons of potent ht, and floods Prone rushing from the clouds, rear'd high to hev'n Their thorny stems, aid bod aroud t hem threw Meridian gloom." And above all these the mountains rose in the distance, and lower hills more near, between which, long valleys stretched themselves till the eye could follow them no farther; and the foregrounds were filled up with gigantic aloes, streams, and pools, and groups of pass- ing cattle and their picturesquely clad conductors. Near Campo Grande, the scenery is diversified by several little green plains, with only an insulated tree here and there, decorated with air plants in bloom, and scarlet creepers. Beyond this lies one of the most beau- tiful spots I ever saw, namely, Viaga; where the rocks, trees, plains, and buildings, seem all placed on purpose to be admired. Having loitered a little to admire it, we rode on to the New Freguezia of Sant Antonio, where we stopped at a very neat venda to rest and feed our horses. The church is on a little hill, overlooking a very pretty country and a neat village, but the greater part of the parish is very distant. While the horses were eating their maize, we procured for ourselves some rusk, cheese from the province of Minas exactly oo

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MATA PACIENCIA. 289 Alter supper I had a great deal of conversation with Dona Mariana concerning the sugar-work, the cultivation of the cane, and the slaves, confirming what I had learnt at Affonsos. She also tells me, as I had heard before, that the creole negroes are less docile and less active than the new negroes. I think both facts may be accounted for without having recourse to the influence of climate. The new negro has the education of the slave-ship and the market, the lash being administered to drill him; so that when bought he is docile from fear, active from habit. The creole negro is a spoiled child, till he is strong enough to work; then, without previous habits of industry, he is ex- pected to be industrious, and having eaten, drunk, and run about on terms of familiar equality, he is expected to be obedient; and where no moral feelings have been cultivated, he is expected to show his gratitude for early indulgence by future fidelity. Dona Mariana tells me, that not half the negroes born on her estate live to be ten years old. It would be worth while to enquire into the cause of this evil, and whether it is general. I conversed also a good while with the chaplain on the general state of the country. He is a native of Pernambuco; of course a staunch independent. * * * It is needless to say that every thing in the manner of living at Mata Paciencia is not only agreeable but elegant. And if the stories of older travellers con- cerning the country life of the Brazilians be true, the change has been most rapid and complete. 25th August. - I was very sorry to leave Mata Paciencia this morn- ing when it was time to return; however, the hour came, and we departed for Affonsos. On the road we stopped to make some sketches, and at Campo Grande to refresh our horses; and were glad ourselves, as the day was pretty cool, to partake of a beef-steak which the good woman of the house cooked according to our directions, the first she had ever seen, regretting all the time that their own dinner was over, and that there was not time to boil or roast for us. But hospitality seems the temper of the country. P P

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pendent. He set forth the long and oppressive tyranny of Portugal; and the meanness of submitting to be ruled by so poor and degraded a country. He talked long and eloquently of the services Don Pedro had rendered to Brazil; of his virtues, and those of the Empress: so that at the last, said the girl, I felt my heart burning in my " breast." Her father, however, had none of her enthusiasm of cha- racter. He is old, and said he neither could join the army himself, nor had he a son to send thither; and as to giving a slave for the ranks, what interest had a slave to fight for the independende bf Brazil ? He should wait in patience the result of the war, and be a peaceable subject to the winner. Dona Maria stole from home to the house of her own sister, who was married, and lived at a little distance. She recapitulated the whole of the stranger's discourse, and said she wished she was a man, that she might join the patriots. " Nay," said the sister, " if I had not a husband and children, for one half of what you say I would join the ranks for the Emperor." This was enough. Maria received some clothes belonging to her sister's husband to equip her; and as her father was then about to go to Cachoeira to dispose of some cottons, she resolved to take the oppor- tunity of riding after him, near enough for protection in case of accident on the road, and far enough off to escape detection. At length being in sight of Cachoeira, she stopped; and going off the road, equipped herself in male attire, and entered the town. This was on Friday. By Sunday she had managed matters so well, that she had entered the regiment of artillery, and had mounted.guard. She was too slight, however, for that service, and exchanged into the infantry, where she now is. She was sent hither, I believe, with despatches, and to be presented to the Emperor, who has given her

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* See Southys Brazi, for the maners of the Tupayas. I a not suffciently acquainted with the filiation of the Indian tribes, to know what relation the Botocudos bear to the Tupayas.

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on their backs. Three of the women were suckling their infants, and these were dressed only in coarse cotton petticoats; the rest of the females had cotton frocks, the men shirts and trousers, given them on their arrival here. As they are usually naked in the woods, their garments seemed to sit uneasily on them: their usual motions seemed slow and lazy; but when roused, there was a springy activity hardly fitting a human being, in all they did. They begged for money; and when we took out a few vintems, the women crowded round me, and pinched me gently to attract my attention. They had learned a few words of Portuguese, which they addressed to us, but discoursed together in their own tongue, which seemed like a series of half-articulate sounds. *Perhaps all the Indians may have been so far cnnibals, as to taste of the fesh of prisoners taken in batte, or victims offred to the gods; but I cannot believe that any ever fed habitually on human fesh, for many reasons. But their traducers had their reasons for inventing and propagating the most atrocious fasehoods, as a sort of ecuse for their own barbarity in hunting nd making sltves of them. These practices, indeed, were so wicked, and so notorios, that in 1537, the Dominican Frey Domingo de Becanoo, provincial of the order in Mexico, sent Frey Domingos de Mennja to Rome to plead the case of the Indians before Paul III who having heard both side, pronounced that The " Indians of America are men of rational sou, of the same nature and species as all others, cpble of the sacraments of the holy church, and consequently free by nature, "and lords of their own actions." . .~~~~~~~ t~~~~~~

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machinery is the chief inducement to fix it here. The powder is mixed by pounding, the mortars being of rosewood, and the pestles of the same shod with copper; yet the mortar-hoops are iron, which seems to me to be a strange oversight. I do not understand these things, however; but the machinery interested me: it is ex- tremely simple, and the timber used in the construction very beau- tiful. The principal mill blew up a few months since, and is now under repair; so that we had an opportunity of seeing the water- courses, dams, wheels, &c., which we could not otherwise have enjoyed. We could not learn the relative strength of the powder. I have heard, however, that it is good. What I have seen is about as fine in grain as what we call priming powder in the navy. While we were walking about we were invited into several houses, by the overseers and other persons employed in the works, and pressed to Q q

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whatever book I ask or is brought to me, and where I have pen, ink, and paper always placed to make notes. This is a kindness and attention to a woman and a stranger that I was hardly prepared for. The library was brought hither from Lisbon in 1810, and placed in its present situation, which was once the hospital belonging to the Carmelites. That hospital was removed to a healthier and more commodious situation, and the rooms, admirably adapted to the pur- pose, received the books, of which there are between sixty and seventy thousand volumes. The greater number are books of theology and law. There is a great deal of ecclesiastical history, and particularly all the Jesuits' accounts of South America. General and civil history are not wanting; and there are good editions of the classics. There are some fine works on natural history; but, excepting these, nothing modern; scarcely a book having been bought for sixty years. But a

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312 JOURNAL " pendence of their country, and their adhesion to, and satisfaction "with, their patriot monarch,' the Emperor Peter I. (son of the "august Soverign Don John VL); under whose protection they enjoy "the glorious privileges of being free men, of choosing their own ".constitution, and of making their own laws by their represent- "atives assembled to consult on their own interests, and in their " own country. ." That the glory of such a day should not be darkened by any ex- " cess, even though proceeding from enthusiasm in the cause we have "embraced, must be the desire of every honest and thinking citizen. "It is not necessary to advise such as to their conduct: but, should "there be any individuals capable of interrupting the public tan- " quillity on any pretext, let them beware! The strictest orders are given for the chastisement of whoever shall cause any kind of dis- " order, according to the degree of the crime. To take the necessary "oaths, to choose the members of the civil government, are acts "that should be performed with deliberation: for which reason, the "first of August is the earliest day which the preparation for such " solemn ceremonies demands, will permit.-- Citizens ! let us go " forward seriously and methodically, without tumult, hurry, or con- " fusion; and accomplish the work we have in hand in such a man- " ner as shall merit the approbation of His Imperial Majesty, and shall "give us neither cause for repentance, nor room for amendment. "Viva, our Emperor ! Viva, the independence and constitution of 0' Brazil ! - O board the Pedro Primeiro, 27th July, 1823. " COCHRANE" On the 28th, the junta of government, the camara of the town, the citizens and soldiers, with Captain Crosbie to represent Lord Coch- rane, who was not well enough to attend, assembled to proclaim the independence of Brazil, and to swear allegiance to the Emperor, Don Pedro de Alcantara; after which there was a firing of the troops, and discharge of artillery, and ringing of bells, as is usual on such occasions. The public act of fealty was drawn up, and signed

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314 JOURNAL. " Imperial Majesty; to suspend hostilities throughout the province; "to cause a new government to be elected; to bring the troops of " the country into the town, and then only in sufficient numbers for the public order and tranquillity; to open communication between "the interior and the capital; to provide it with necessaries; and to "restore navigation and commerce to their pristine state: all this, S' SIm, was the work of a few days. Grant, Heaven, that this noble "Chief may end the glorious career of his political and military la- bours with the like felicity and success; and, that Your Imperial Majesty being so well served, nothing more may be necessary to immortalise that admirable commander, not only in the annals of "Brazil, but in those of the whole world !" And this, I think, is all of importance that I have learned with regard to the capture of Maranham to-day. It is true, the brig Maria, despatched by His Lordship on the 12th of August, only arrived to-day; so that much may be behind. 2d October. - A friend who was present at the Assembly to-day gives me the following account of the debate.-In the first.place, the Emperor sent notice of Lord Cochrane's success at Maranham; and Martim Francisco Ribiero de Andrada rose and proposed a vote of thanks to His Lordship. The deputy Montezuma (of Bahia) opposed this, on the ground that he was tie servant of the executive govern- ment, and the government ought to thank him. He felt as grateful to Lord Cochrane as any member of.the Assembly could do, and would do as much to prove his gratitude; but he would not vote to thank him there. Dr. Franca (known by the nickname of Franzinho) seconded Montezuma, and said it derogated from the dignity of the legislative assembly of the vast, andnoble, and rich empire of Brazil, to vote thanks to any individual. .,On which Costa Barros, in a speech of eloquence and enthusiasm, maintained the propriety of thanking Lord Cochrane.: That the triumphal road, as in ancient Rome, did not now exist; but the triumph might he granted by the voice of the national representatives. The gentleman who thought no thanks

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VIGNETTE IX. Stone Cart at Rio de Janeiro..321 355 0321

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JOURNAL: RIO DE JANEIRO 356 0322

JOURNAL: PASSAGE TO ENGLAND 357 0323

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APPENDIX 363

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Total Number of Slaves imported,

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77,940,200 108,261,640 92,154,390 66,430,-0 ................. 75,538,774 116,099,750 ................ 20,076,200 14,947,260 7,37, ................. 2,25,600 102,164,290 178,041,520 75,136,180 132,282,730 .................. 10,616,744 40,091,590 .................. 3, 5,600 2,320,000 12,091,000 .................................................. .................. 17,169,400 .... .............. ....... ........... ....... .......... ...... ............ 3,681,51,130 3,411,828,970 2,98S,022,195 1,885,250,690 1,709,760,809 2,841,179,618 1,583,612,730 27,706,200 11,797,100 6059,565 5,392,360 12,250,420 14,64,625 ................ S33,75,120 33,161,620 13,619,060 13,88,600 1405,060 2,571,520 .................. 57,456,520 49 855,700 2,041,480 28,261,380 29,723,480' 41,776,216 .................. S07,923,950 175,888,560 111,670,680 83,702,900 120,768,112 168,261,274 .................. 9,924,400 44665120 49,258,10 33,272,580 20,065,200 4,370,32 .................. 506,977,320 579,338,910 359,98S,900 212,115,710 362,556,19 420,601,896 .................. 1,746,000 0672,090 240,000 0,00 ...... 784,400 ................. 764,4 103,453,400 96,565,780 55,042,700 46,099,960 $6,879,470 70,841,748 .............. 3,663 3,966 4,579 5,263 3,292 4,578 .............. 12,826 21,868 10,196 9,219 6755 12,186 ............... 27,52 12,180 9,324 2,76 10,66 .................. 22,686 25,224 4,961 5,122 8,775 14,509 .................. 1,254,440 3,347,040 7,002,920 7,312,400 2,614,760 4,261,180 .................. 4,886,400 6,934,300 3,105,000 1,477,000 1,948,400 3,536,700 .................. 22,220000 24,240,000 23,590,000 4,020,000 9,150,920 18,534,000 ............. 10,800,000 17,400,000 6,600,000 9,800,000 2,298,400 9,920,000 .................. 288 265 303 221 111 259 657 76 109 132 269 27 124 .................. 2,047 694 1,879 2,226 1,179 1,921 1,620;1 382 442 54 204 77 227 260 40,08 5,082 52.689 45,687 20,600 42,675 62,221 2,237 5,786 1,799 1,669 541 2,485 ................| 9,624 10,455 8,187 8,751 4,891 8,28 ................. 3,398 3,621 2,717 3,541 1,427 99 ................ ...... ........... 257,858,230 .................. 352,145,615 .................1,379,412,568 .................. 132,588.568 ........... ....... 470,596,98 ................................... ................ .................. 150,145,175 247,213,751 219,786,377 158,517,700 87,1983,76 167,659,282 115,686,300 89 79 60 61 67 77 4 63 100 57 80 35 71 56 . 152 179 137 141 102 149 104 5,797 1,377 4,784 2,381 1,822 S,790 1,718 2,825 3,259 1,269 483 71 1,9 ................. 8,122 6,636 6,053 2,864 2,635 5,409 1,718 fr80 1812 to 1821, - - 45,477. ut 2 2. ;

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DTluro1. | 1812. 1819 1. 14. 1815. 1816. bbo . ... ................. ..21 ,940,6 657,262..06 850,902,45011, 6701 1 :g=n=d . 601089 s9171.060,051,156 917,05,51 , s07 845101,5271 FUTni e . ................. ..632,71999 . . ............ Diffe Port.................. 19,22, 655 6,690 1, 2, 409690 Tot oflhe Epor ... ,0699519 1,6457, 959 1,79 4,262,003 2,076,738850 34,650 E .opi, Duts!p "o C* 1 10,656,9 7 1961,016, 6 148,06,103 1066,727,40' 210,151,! lt Duti Ships sailn Cot . , , 3 51 91 6 64 Tonai Ships siled ......... 62 o

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1818. 1. 182 15 93 . 1 n . |¥S .0, 1821. 1,177,9, 025 1,012630. 550 730,509, 375 556,768,709 695 ,369, 183 976,971,161 483,451,725 309,40 0,597 3 1 16,67, 7 700 96,42, 70 ,742 13,198,73 237,200,188 012,150 1,728,402,90 2,084,502,4 1,033,142,354 1,406,996, 782 1,102,068,086 1,681,17,507 602,368,671 12,448s,3001 242214,100 000 86,879,600 6,7,6 . ...... 166.368,4M 85,13,200 .................. 7,S19,000 48,720,950 20,168,000 ................... ................ 4 ,932,000 5 ,2 6,653,400 238, 33 9,1,400 ........................... 020,250 S,5*8.862,56gp3,66967 200 2,5132,425, 212 2,237.36,30.'2,0040,279,664 s,080,604,29i 1,304,685,996 10,037,400 241,675, 800 215,5686, 000 220,30,00 170,437,441 225,730240 163,31 9,999 63 78 66 70 341 66 65 1011 133 14J 133 981 1421_ 114

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