Having shipped my goods on board the Warrington, captain Hinkley, bound from Greenock to Savannah, I set out from Glasgow for Greenock by the stage coach, on Saturday, the 8th of March, 1806. There are two roads from Glasgow to Greenock, the one direct, by Renfrew, the other by Paisley. The stage took the latter route, which lies through a level, well-cultivated country, and pretty fertile, to Paisley.

Paisley is 7 miles distant from Glasgow, and is an irregularly built town, the streets mostly narrow, and not very clean. It contains upwards of 30,000 inhabitants; and the principal manufactures are fancy muslins and threads, with silks and gauzes. The people are very industrious, and there is more elegance and taste displayed in the fancy goods of that town than in any other that I have seen. From Paisley towards Greenock, the country continues level for two miles, and then the road rises for about five miles, with a gradual ascent, to Bishoptown, where there is a very fine view. To the west is a full view of the river Clyde, which expands to the breadth of seven miles, having Greenock and Port Glasgow on its left bank, and its borders studded with elegant villas, surrounded by well cultivated fields and plantations. To the north, is Dunbarton, an irregularly built little town, at the mouth of the river Leven, and having considerable manufactures of glass. Near this stands Dunbarton castle, well known in ancient story, on a singularly insulated rock, the evident effect of some great eruption of the earth. To the north is the beautiful river Leven, celebrated in verse by Smollett, who was born on its pleasant banks, two miles above Dunbarton. The banks of the river are elegantly adorned with villas 4 0026 26 and cultivated fields, and there is more machinery upon it than any river in the west of Scotland. This little river is the outlet of Loch Lomond, a lake singularly beautiful and romantic, on the east side of which stands Ben Lomond, one of the highest mountains in Scotland; and the view is terminated to north and west by mountains innumerable, the tops of which are generally lost in the clouds.

From the summit of the eminence where this view is seen, the road proceeds by a winding descent to the banks of the river, and keeps close along shore for five miles to Port Glasgow, a small town containing about 3000 people. It was intended to be a port to Glasgow, as its name implies, and has a little shipping trade; but it is altogether eclisped by Greenock, which possesses superior advantages as a port. Three miles beyond this is Greenock, and on reaching it, I found that the vessel would not sail for several days.

Greenock is an irregularly built town, containing about 18,000 inhabitants, and enjoys a very large portion of the commerce of the west of Scotland, which employs an extensive mercantile capital. Besides the coasting and Irish trade, of which it has a large share, it employs numerous shipping to Canada, to the West Indies, and to the continent of Europe; and it is the seat of nearly the whole of the American trade with Scotland. There are three or four vessels in the New-York, and as many in the Charleston trade; besides occasional vessels for Boston, Savannah, Norfolk, &c. This trade is wholly carried on in American vessels; and they generally perform two voyages in the year. The country round Greenock has a singular and even romantic appearance. The Clyde is here seven miles broad; but a few miles below, it makes a sudden bend to the southward, and contracts to the breadth of two miles. On the opposite side is Hellensburg, and two miles below, on this side, is Gourock, which are celebrated watering-places, and much frequented by the citizens of Glasgow in the summer season; and on the west is situated Roseneath, a seat of the duke of Argyle. It was lately burnt down, but it is now rebuilt in an elegant style, and commands a fine view of the Firth and its shipping. The whole country round rises into high lands, and the view is terminated to the north and west by lofty mountains.

From this configuration of the country, connected with the 0027 27 winds which blow across the Atlantic Ocean, we may account for the frequent rains with which this place, and indeed the greater part of the west coast of Scotland, is inundated. The wind blows from the south-west for eight or nine months in the year, and is particularly prevalent in the winter season. In its course from the warm latitudes, over the vast expanse of water in the Atlantic Ocean, it is highly impregnated with vapour; and, arriving on the high lands on the west of Scotland, it is suddenly condensed, and falls down in torrents of rain. From these circumstances, the winters are mild and rainy. There is comparatively little snow, and it never lies long; but it has been frequently observed to rain for forty-two days successively. I cannot better illustrate this, than by relating an anecdote of an English traveller, and a waiter at one of the public inns. The traveller had arrived there for the first time. On the morrow, he intended to transact his business, but was prevented by the rain; and so successively, for four or five days. At last, accosting the waiter, “What, my lad,” says he, does it always rain here?” “O na,” says the waiter, it sometimes snaws.”

No material occurrence happened during my stay in Greenock, and I went on board the Warrington, on Wednesday, the 12th of March. A Mr. Ballard, of Boston, was my fellow-passenger in the cabin; and a Mr. Miller and a Mr. M'Kenzie were passengers in the steerage.

We set sail at 3 o'clock in the afternoon, accompanied by the Factor, Caldwell, of New-york; but the wind was light, and we made little progress. Both these vessels were very fast sailers, and had excited considerable interest which would sail best. Among others, I had a small bet depending on the success of our vessel. By dint of towing, we had got a little ahead of the Factor, and were brought to and boarded by the crew of the tender, which was at the Tail of the Bank, who made a search for British seamen, and conducted themselves with all the insolence of arbitrary power; but all was found correct, and we were suffered to depart.

In the mean time, a small breeze having sprung up, the Factor, feeling it first, came up with us very fast, took the wind out of our sails, and fairly passed us, to the great joy of the one ship's company and mortification of the other. We felt the breeze in our turn, and kept right astern of the Factor fifteen 0028 28 miles, to the Cumbraes, where she hove to, to discharge the pilot, and we passed her; and she again passed us, while we were discharging ours.

Five miles below Greenock is the Clough light-house, where the river contracts, and makes the sudden bend to the south before noticed; a little beyond which it spreads out into a spacious firth, and embosoms several islands, the chief of which are Arran, Bute, and the Cumbraes. It is bounded with high lands on both sides, and the islands are generally rugged and lofty. Arran, in particular, rises into very high mountains. The channel is very safe, and is navigable, at all seasons, for vessels of any burden.

It was dark when we discharged the pilot, and I retired to rest. When I rose in the morning, I found we had passed the island of Arran, and were abreast of that singularly insulated rock, in the middle of the channel, celebrated in song by the favourite Scottish bard, Burns—

“Meg was deaf as Ailsa Craig. ”

Here we had a very extensive view of the Scottish and Irish coasts. The Factor was a few miles ahead.

The wind continued light and variable, so that we did not get out of the channel until the afternoon, when we passed the Mull of Cantyre, soon after which we passed Rathlin Island; and on the morning of the 14th, we found ourselves in the Atlantic Ocean, and had a most extensive view of the north-west coast of Ireland, and the Western Islands of Scotland. In the afternoon, we were abreast of Tory Island, from whence we took our departure, and, bestowing my benediction on the British islands, I committed myself to the waters of the Atlantic, hoping for a speedy and pleasant passage, and a safe arrival on Columbia's shore.

The wind continued very variable, accompanied with cold, stormy weather, with rain, hail, and snow, occasionally, until the 16th, when it got more settled. During all this time, we had kept sight of the Factor, but she was generally ahead. We now took a fair, strong breeze from the eastward, at the commencement of which the Factor was ahead fully twelve miles, and the ships had now a good opportunity for trying their full speed. We soon found that we gained upon the Factor very fast, and finally passed her on the morning of the 17th, to the great mortification of her captain, who tried her on all tacks, but with 0029 29 ?out success; and he finally shaped his course more to the northward, and we lost sight of the vessel during the day.

This breeze continued, wafting us along at the rate of nine or ten miles an hour, until the afternoon of the 20th, when we were to the westward of the Western Islands, and congratulating ourselves on the prospect of a speedy passage.—But, lo! a sudden reverse took place. The wind, which was blowing from the south-east, increased into a furious gale, and the ship was brought from topgallant and studding sails, to foresail and close-reefed main top-sail. The gale increased, the ship laboured hard, and shipped a great many heavy seas; but at 1 o'clock, on the morning of the 21st, it lulled into a perfect calm. It was now that we felt the most disagreeeble effects of the gale; for the sea had risen mountains high, and the ship, having no sail to steady her, partook of the motion of every wave, and rolled so sharp, that she threatened to toss her masts overboard. This state of things was, however, of short duration. At 2 o'clock, the wind shifted to the north-west, blowing most furiously, till about sunrise, when it became a little more moderate, and we made sail; although the cross tumbling sea, occasioned by the contrary gales, made our sailing intolerably uneasy.

We had now a series of head winds, and disagreeable weather, which will be best described by giving an extract from my sea journal.

March 22. First part, strong gales and clear weather, Middle and latter part, strong gales, with rain and hail, a very heavy sea, and the ship labouring hard.

23. Strong gales and thick weather all these twenty-four hours, a very heavy sea, and the ship labouring hard. At 9 o'clock in the evening, the ship was struck with a very heavy sea, which carried away the bulwarks, and split the starboard plank sheer nearly the whole length of the main deck, washed the cambouse-house out of its place, and nearly carried the cabin-boy overboard. At 12 o'clock at night, shipped another very heavy sea.

24. Commences with strong gales and a heavy sea. Middle part more moderate, but a heavy sea, and the ship labouring hard. Latter part moderate, and all hands employed in repairing the damages of the gale.

25. First part, fresh breezes and clear. Middle, tremendous squalls. Latter part, light airs, inclining to a calm.

26. First part, light winds. Middle and latter part, fresh breezes and cloudy.

27. First part, fresh breezes, and thick hazy weather. Middle part, the breeze increased to a most tremendous gale, and at 11 o'clock at night, the ship was struck with such a sea, as made her quiver to her centre. My fellow-passenger was thrown out of his birth with the violence of the shock, and the cabin was nearly filled with water. There was no making sail in this weather, and the ship was hove to. Latter part, very strong gales, with furious squalls, a very heavy sea, running, and the ship leaking much in her upper works.

This, and those of the 21st and 23d, were the only severe gales we encountered, but we had a series of head winds, gales, and squalls with occasional showers of rain, hail, and snow, till the 22d of April, when I find the following remarks in my Journal: “Being now out forty-one days, and little more than two-thirds of the passage, the wind right against us, and no appearance of shifting, we apprehend a long passage, and the ship's company are put on short allowance of water. I am much afraid our goods will be too late for the Savannah market.”

The head winds continued, but we had more moderate weather, though occasional gales, till the 26th, when we spoke a sloop out two days from Bermuda. Being now near these little islands, I may step out of my course to describe them, though I did not see them.

They are four in number, and were discovered by John Bermudas, a Spaniard, in 1527; but the Spaniards neglecting them, they were again discovered by Sir George Sommers, who was shipwrecked on them in 1609. Of these islands, the chief is St. George, having a capital of the same name, consisting of about 500 houses, built of soft free-stone. St. George contains about 3000 inhabitants, and the whole islands perhaps about 9000, of whom nearly, two-thirds are slaves. The people are chiefly occupied in building small craft, with which they trade to Canada and the West Indies; and they are said to be very expert at the business of privateering. The civil government is vested in a governor, council, and general assembly. The religion is that of the church of England, and a native of Perth, in Scotland, is minister.

The head winds still continued, but the weather was moderate; and after crossing the gulf stream, we made the land on the 7th of 0031 31 May, supposed to be cape Look-out, on the coast of North Carolina. But the head winds still continued, and we were to use a sea phrase) jammed in betwixt the gulf stream and the coast, so that we could make no progress whatever till the 10th, when, to our great joy, we got a fair wind, which wafted us briskly along, and we made Tybee Light-house early on the morning of the 12th of May, after a turbulent, disagreeable passage of 61 days.

The breeze continuing favourable, we soon approached the bar, where, having got a pilot, we waited half an hour for the tide, and then made sail up Savannah river; which I found perfect contrast to the Clyde, the banks being low and muddy, and the country round a perfect level. In our passage up we saw a good many fishes and alligators; which last are frightful-looking animals, but they are by no means so dangerous as generally represented. At 2 o'clock we passed a bend in the river called Four Mile Point, and at 3 came to anchor at Five Fathom Hole; where having dined on board, for the last time, we set out in the small boat for Savannah, which, we reached at 5 o'clock.

The most material circumstances which happened on board, are recorded in the foregoing chapter; but the passage may admit of the following general remarks.

The Warrington was a good stout vessel, of 318 tons burden, remarkably handsome and well found, and a very fast sailer: but her cargo was light, and all at the bottom, so that she was not well trimmed for sea; and her motion was sharp, and intolerably uneasy.

Captain Hinkley, the commander, was bred a sailor on board of this same vessel, and raised himself by his own merit to the rank he now holds. His scientific knowledge did not seem to be great, but he was an excellent seaman, and very careful in the management of the vessel.

He was provided with an excellent mate, in Mr. Arnold; who to a thorough knowledge as a seaman, joined a correct knowledge of the theory and practice of navigation, and sciences connected 0032 32 with it: he was moreover a very agreeable, intelligent man, and I received much information from his remarks.

Mr. Ballard, my fellow passenger, was an intelligent, good-natured young man. With the steerage passengers I had of course less connection, but they were agreeable; and the sailors behaved themselves with propriety during the passage.

The motion of the vessel was too great to permit us to amuse ourselves at any game; and I devoted my time pretty closely to the study of navigation, geography, astronomy, and chart drawing; in which I flattered myself that I made tolerable proficiency. The study of chemistry took up part of my time, and so also did general literature and music. To the principles of merchandize in general, and the trade between Glasgow and Savannah in particular, I, paid much attention, and drew up an essay on the shipping trade between the two places, and the best method of prosecuting it; but circumstances have since occurred which render it of little importance to the general reader, and I omit it, and substitute in its place the following reflections on the prevailing winds and currents, with other phenomena, in the Atlantic; and an inquiry as to the best courses across that ocean at different seasons of the year.

I. OF THE WINDS OF THE ATLANTIC.

The trade wind prevails between the tropics, that is, from 23 ½° S. to 23 ½° N. latitude being 47 degrees in breadth; and is a constant motion of the air from east to west, having a little variation near the extremes, that is, towards the southern tropic it inclines to the south-east, and towards the northern tropic it inclines to the north-east. The cause of this current of air is supposed to be the action of the sun, which is always vertical at one point or another between the tropics; combined with the diurnal motion of the earth, which has greater velocity here than at any other point. The action of a vertical sun rarefies and expands the air, in consequence of which it rises; and the motion of the earth sweeping from under it at the rate of more than 1000 miles an hour to the eastward, causes a constant current of air to the westward. The velocity of this current is various; but when I sailed in it, in my voyage to the West Indies, it was very strong, and regular, carrying a heavy sailing vessel at the rate of 8 miles an hour, and it never shifted a point from due east.

A little attention to the nature of this wind may be useful, as it illustrates the theory of the variable winds, and bears with considerable force upon the theory of the climate of the United States.

From the tropic of Cancer, in 23 ½°, to about 28° north latitude, the wind generally blows from the north-east, and is a branch of the trade wind, partaking of its nature. Between the latitudes of 28° and 32° north, the winds are very irregular; and that being the region between the trade and variable winds, it is subject to frequent calms, Between the latitudes of 28° and 50° north, westerly winds are by far the most prevalent, particularly in the winter and spring, during which they frequently rise to furious gales and squalls. Beyond 50° north, I had not occasion to remark, but I believe they are most prevalent from the north-west.

II. OF THE GULF STREAM.

This stream is a consequence arising from the trade winds. By an inspection of the chart of the Atlantic Ocean, it will be seen, that the vast quantity of water of which that ocean is made up, must be affected by a constant current of air sweeping along it in one direction. This must necessarily give a small degree of motion to the water, which being slanted off by the direction of the coast of South America, has, towards the southern extremity, a north-west motion, and proceeding through the West India islands, raises the waters in the gulf of Mexico beyond the level of the Atlantic or Pacific Oceans. The current being stopt by the isthmus of Darien, winds along the northern coast of the gulf of Mexico, in search of a level, and finds an outlet through the gulf of Florida, between the island of Cuba and the south point of East Florida. From thence it proceeds in a north-east direction, sweeping the American coast, at the distance of 60 or 70 miles from the land, until it reaches cape Hatteras, where it approaches within 20 or 30 miles of the coast; here it tends more to the eastward, until it reaches the coast of Nova Scotia, when it takes a course nearly due east. It continues this course until it reaches the Great Bank of Newfoundland, where it seems to be materially affected, and diverging to a greater breadth, is finally lost towards the Azores and Madeira islands.

The breadth of this stream, in the gulf of Florida, is about 5 0034 34 30 or 40 miles. It encreases as it proceeds to the north-east: opposite cape Hatteras it is about 150 miles; off the coast of Nova Scotia it is about 4 degrees; and at the Bank of Newfoundland it is about 5 degrees; from thence diverging to 6 or 7.

The velocity of the current is, in the gulf of Florida, about five or six miles an hour. but it decreases as it proceeds to the north-east. Opposite cape Hatteras it is about two miles; off the coast of Nova Scotia it is about one and a half; and at the banks of Newfoundland it is about one mile.

The probability is, that its course is directed to the eastward by the influence of the rivers issuing from the coast of America, particularly the great river St. Lawrence, opposite to which it seems to make the greatest bend; and it is also probable that the confluence of these waters and another stream proceeding from Davis' Straits, has contributed to raise the Banks of Newfoundland.

The temperature of this stream is different from that of the surrounding ocean, and partakes of that of the waters in the gulf of Mexico, being generally 10 or 12 degrees warmer than the other parts of the ocean. Hence it affects the temperature of the air above it, which is frequently subject, particularly in the spring, to calms, fogs, whirlwinds, water spouts, and storms of thunder and lightning. The heavy fogs, which hover over the Banks of Newfoundland, seem to arise from this warm fluid, mixing with the cold atmosphere generated by the stream from Davis' Straits.

The next phenomenon which I shall notice, as bearing on this subject, is, that islands of ice, sometimes numerous and of great extent, are carried by the stream from Davis' Straits, in the spring season; and before they are dissolved by the warmth of the Atlantic, they sometimes extend as far south as the latitude of 45° or 40°, and as far east as the longitude of 48° or 50°. Vessels sail!ng to and from America have been frequently entangled amongst them, and some have been totally lost.

A correct knowledge of these circumstances is of considerable importance to our inquiry, and the following practical deductions may be of service to those interested in the result.

1st. Ships bound from Britain to the West Indies should shape their course from the channel to St. Mary's, one of the Azores; from thence to where the longitude of 40° intersects the latitude of 23 1/2°; and from thence run down the trades for the intended 0035 35 port. Ships bound from Europe to the gulf of Mexico, should keep the same course. The return from the West Indies and Mexico to Europe is different, according to situation, as a few degrees of longitude make an important variation. Generally speaking, it is best for vessels to bear to the northward until they get into the variable winds, and then keep along with them in the nearest way to their intended port.

2d. Vessels bound to the southward of the capes of Virginia in the United States, should, in the spring, shape their course for St. Mary's, as aforesaid; from thence to about where the longitude of 35° intersects the latitude of 28°, where they will, at that season, most likely meet with an easterly wind, failing which they are sure to fall in with it a few degrees farther south; run down with it due west till they arrive on the confines of the gulf stream; and then bear away for the intended port. By taking this southern course, at this season, they will avoid several difficulties. 1st. The danger of falling in with islands of ice. 2dly. The necessity of passing the gulf stream where it is four or five degrees broad, and at that season subject to much bad weather And 3dly. The chance of meeting with a series of head winds. In the autumn there is no ice to be dreaded, the weather is more mild, and the westerly winds less prevalent, while the latitudes between 28° and 32° are much subjected to calms, so that it is best, upon the whole, to run for the intended port.

3d. Ships bound to the northward of the capes of Virginia should shape their course direct for the intended port. They have no occasion to cross the gulf stream, and, as to the ice, it may be prudent to keep a little to the southward, as they approach the Banks of Newfoundland.

4th. Vessels bound to Europe from any port of America, cannot do better than run direct for the intended port.

The first objects that attracted my attention on my arrival in Savannah, was the sallow appearance of the inhabitants, and the extreme warmth of the weather; the thermometer being at 91°. I naturally concluded that as the season advanced the heat would 0036 36 increase, and would soon be almost intolerable. This opinion was strengthened by some of the inhabitants who are in the habit of alarming strangers concerning the climate; but I was afterwards informed by a judicious medical gentleman, that there would be few days warmer than this, and that the weather would be, upon the whole, much cooler. This opinion I found to be correct, for in a few days the thermometer fell below 70°, and it seldom rose above 85° while I continued in Savannah.

The next circumstance that made a forcible impression upon me was the great difference between this place and any other I had seen before. There was no distant view—no external object to amuse the fancy—the whole country round, north, south, east, and west, was one dull scene which excited no interest; and the music of the birds of heaven was exchanged for the dull croaking of the bull-frog, and the shrill treble pipe of the musquetoe. Nevertheless, I soon got familiarized to the place, and even fond of it. My business, which was well organized, was succeeding to my wish, and the inhabitants, whom I found very obliging, became every day more amiable in my eyes.

Savannah is situated in 328 3' north latitude, on a high sandy bank, or bluff on the south side of the Savannah river, 17 miles from the sea. The city is laid out on an elegant plan, and is about a mile in length from east to west, and about a quarter of a mile in breadth. It consists of 30 streets, 16 squares, and 6 lanes, containing about 1000 houses, and 5500 inhabitants; of whom about 2500 are slaves. The public buildings are a court-house, jail, academy, bank-office, and five places for public worship. There has lately been built a very handsome exchange, with a spire and observatory, from whence vessels may be seen out at sea 10 or 12 miles. The situation of Savannah is favourable both for health and commerce. The bluff on which it is built is from 50 to 70 feet high, so that there is a fine descent to the river. This bluff is a bed of very fine sand; and by digging wells about 60 or 70 feet deep, a supply of excellent water is procured, probably a filtration from the river. The streets are broad and airy, and the city, being only 17 miles from the sea, frequently enjoys a sea breeze, which is cool and refreshing in the summer season.

The trade of the city is considerable, and employs 13 regular ships to Britain; 15 packet brigs and schooners to New York; two or three to Philadelphia, Baltimore and Boston; two or three 0037 37 sloops to Charleston; and four or five vessels to the West Indies. Besides these, there are a number of vessels that come from the northward, annually, to take freight for Britain, and the continent of Europe.

The country in the vicinity contributes but little to the supply of the city. To the south it is sandy and barren for a considerable distance; to the north, east, and west, considerable crops of rice are raised; but it is thought that the rice fields contribute to make the city unhealthy. Cotton and rice are the staple commodities of the state; and Savannah being the only shipping port in it, is, of course, the general mart for the disposal of these articles. The sea-island cotton of this state is reckoned superior to any in America. The principal islands where it is raised are St. Symons and Cumberland; but it is planted and comes to maturity in all the other islands along the coast from Charleston southward, as well as on other places of the seaboard, and is thence called seaboard cotton , or, as some of my Scots friends would have it, “ seabuird woo. ” The exports from the state amount to above two millions of dollars annually; besides what is carried coastwise, which is not entered at the custom-house, and which may probably amount to as much more. The great value is in cotton, and the whole centres in Savannah. The imports are from Europe, the West Indies, and the northern states, and consist of dry goods, hardware, groceries, flour, &c.; and it is presumed they are nearly equal in value to the exports. Supposing the aggregate to be 8,000,000 dollars, and allow 7 per cent. commission to the Savannah merchants, the result will be 560,000 dollars, as the annual income of Savannah, which may perhaps be pretty near the truth.

Savannah river is one of the most important in America. Its head waters consist of two small rivers which rise near the mountains, and form a junction about 220 miles from the sea; from thence it runs a south-east course, and falls into the ocean 17 miles below Savannah. It receives several small streams in its progress, and is the boundary line between Georgia and South Carolina, during its whole course. It is navigable for ships of any burden to within three miles of Savannah; for ships of 250 tons to Savannah; and for boats of 100 feet keel to Augusta. Above Augusta are the Rapids, and, after passing them, the river can be navigated 80 miles higher, in small boats, to the junction of the head waters. It may be remarked that through the medium of this river a considerable 0038 38 part of produce of South Carolina is carried to the Savannah market.

The river abounds with fish, and the water is soft and good; but the country on its banks is by no means healthy, especially in the lower part of the state.

Having arranged my affairs in Savannah, and confided the management of the business to a trusty assistant, I resolved, in pursuance of my original plan, to make a tour to the upper country, for the purpose of acquiring information, and forming connexions. The season was far advanced for travelling, in that country, but I trusted to a good constitution und temperate habits; and finding a gentleman about to go to Augusta, I resolved to avail myself of his company. I accordingly purchased a horse, for which I paid 118 dollars, saddle and bridle included, and, having every thing prepared, we set out at mid-day on Friday, June 27th. We took the Augusta road, and at two miles from Savannah, we passed the branch which leads to Louisville. A little beyond this there is a fine spring of pure water, much frequented by the inhabitants of Savannah in the summer season. Seven miles from Savannah we met two travellers, who informed us that the creeks. * were all swelled to a great height, and the bridges broken down, so that we could not possibly get along. The road was, indeed, far from inviting. There had been a long series of rainy weather, and the afternoon was very sultry; but we resolved to go through, if possible, and accordingly kept on our course. Two miles from where we met the travellers, we reached the first obstacle, called Pipemaker's Creek. The bridge was nearly gone, but we adjusted the rafters a little, and with some difficulty led our horses over. After travelling three miles more, we reached Austin's Creek, and here, the bridge being entirely, gone, we swam our horses across. A mile further on we reached Black Creek, the largest and most dangerous of the three. It had swelled to a great extent; in the middle the current

* This term is, in the United States, applied to streams or rivulets.

Leaving Hely's, we travelled two miles, when my fellow-traveller stopped to point out the spot where two negroes were executed for killing an overseer. The one was hanged, and the other was burnt to death. I was informed that this mode of punishment is sometimes inflicted on negroes, when the crime is very flagrant, to deprive them of the mental consolation arising from a hope that they will after death return to their own country. This may be good policy as respects the blacks; but, in mercy to the white people, I wish it could be avoided. When I looked at the scorched tree where the man had been tied, and observed the fragments of his bones at the foot of it, I was horror-struck; and i never yet can think of the scene without a pang. What feelings must have been excited in those who saw the execution! Thirteen 0040 40 miles beyond this we reached Berry's tavern, 28 miles from Savannah, and here we stopt for the night.

The afternoon was sultry, and, in consequence of the heavy rains, the road was very bad. The first 13 miles we were quite enveloped in thick pine woods, with very little brush-wood. The soil is poor and sandy, so that there are few settlements. The last 15 miles were rather more pleasant, and there are more settlements; but the country is level, abounding with marshes, musquetoes, and bull-frogs; and the soil continues poor and sandy.

Saturday, 28th June, we rose at 3 o'clock and settled our bill, which amounted to one dollar and thirty-one cents each; and travelled through a barren, swampy, unpleasant tract, 10 miles, when we stopped to breakfast at the house of a Major King. We were detained a long time here: but we were well compensated by getting an excellent breakfast, and the view of the place was far superior to any thing we had seen since we left Savannah. It is situated on an eminence, the ground cleared for a considerable way round, and there is a clear rivulet in the neighbourhood, a thing uncommon in the low country; such streams being generally choaked up by brush-wood, and converted into swamps.

After leaving King's, the country rises a little, but it is still poor and sandy. We travelled 10 miles to Scrogg's , and the day being exceedingly hot, we stopped here for dinner. Hearing the noise of a wheel up stairs, which was the first I had heard in America, I went to see what was going on. Here I saw a black girl carding cotton, and a daughter of the landlord spinning the rolls on the large wheel. They were quite busy, and appeared to be industrious and happy. After coming down stairs I entered into conversation with the mistress of the house, whom I found to be a sensible woman, and sufficiently communicative. She informed me, that they, as well as all the other families in the neighbourhood, spun cotton all the year round, and got the yarn woven into every article necessary for family use; such as sheeting, shirting, toweling, table-cloths, gowns, petticoats, aprons, caps; pantaloons, vesting, and summer coats for the men's use; besides sofa-clothes, fringes, tassels, hosiery, &c. I examined the yarn and cloth, and found the fabrics substantial and durable. The cloth was neatly manufactured, and some of the articles were handsome. I saw that this family was “independent of 0041 41 commerce;” and this was the first impression that I received as to the importance of the domestic manufactures of America. The idea was novel, and its tendency was to militate against my interest as an importer; yet I cannot say but that the feelings excited by it were of the pleasing kind. Self-interest is a proper principle, but it should be so regulated as not to blunt the feelings of humanity, nor to make us repine at the well-being of others.

Leaving this comfortable cabin we travelled two miles, when, coming to a grocery store, we lighted to quench our thirst; the afternoon being excessively hot and sultry. Here we saw a lady from Savannah, who, having lost two children in that city, had retired here with the third, the only one she had left. The child appeared to be thriving, and I hope will live to reward the mother for her maternal care. The Georgian ladies appear to be very fond of children, and, in the country at least, they seem to be sufficiently prolific; for we hardly ever passed a house without seeing a cluster of young ones: and often a child at the breast of a mother, whom, judging from external appearance, I would have reckoned past child-bearing.

We travelled eight miles further, through a country nearly similiar to that we had passed, to Pearce's; and here we stopped for the night.

This is one of the most pleasant places I had yet seen in Georgia. There are three plantations adjoining, so that the country is cleared for a considerable way round; and being a little elevated, it is free from swamps, and tolerably healthy. Here we saw a number of starlings, and heard several mocking-birds, whose notes were very delightful. We retired to rest at nine o'clock; but I was so overcome with fatigue, that I enjoyed little repose.

Sunday, 29th June. We set out at five o'clock in the morning, and travelling 11 miles through pine woods, and a barren sandy soil, we passed Beaverdam creek by a wooden bridge, and arrived at the village of Jacksonborough. It is situated on the north side of the creek, and consists of about 12 dwelling houses, a church, and jail. The situation is unhealthy on the creek, but the land is considerably elevated behind the town, and is said to be quite healthy. The view was gratifying to me, being the first rising ground I had seen in the United States.

We travelled nine miles beyond this to Burrel's, to breakfast. The country is completely barren, and covered with pine trees, 6 0042 42 without any brushwood, the whole way, but the air was elastic and agreeable. It is a common remark in Georgia, that the pine lands are healthy; and the circumstance may probably be accounted for by supposing, that the resinous particles of the pine may contribute to increase the oxygen of the atmosphere; while, the woods being generally on barren ground, no pernicious gases are generated uncongenial to the human system. A great portion of the subsistence of the human body, is received by breathing. The atmosphere is principally composed of two fluids, oxygen and azote, in the proportion of nearly three-fourths of the latter to one-fourth of the former. It is the oxygen that supports animal life. In respiration it is absorbed by the lungs, and combines with the blood, which gives it its florid colour; while the azote is thrown out by the return of the breathing. There are other fluids which mingle occasionally with the atmosphere, the principal of which is hydrogen, which is generated freely by the decomposition of vegetable and animal matter in water; and this fluid is not simply unfit for respiration in a negative sense—it is positively noxious. Hence that state of the atmosphere which contains oxygen in the proper portion, and where there is no other gas, except azote, must be the fittest for respiration; and, from a consideration of these circumstances, we may see the reason why high hilly countries, or well-drained low countries, are healthy—while crowded cities, abounding in filth, and low marshy situations in the country, are the reverse.—From this reasoning we may draw the following practical deductions.

Having breakfasted, we pursued our journey 11 miles through a country nearly similar to that already described, but rather in an improving state, to where the road forks; the right branch leading to Augusta, the left to Waynesborough. We took that towards Waynesborough, on which the country improves rapidly. In place of pine barrens, swamps, and muddy creeks, we had now an elevated dry road, agreeably uneven, and adorned on each side with natural woods, consisting of pine, oak, hickory, and black-jack. The underwood was pretty thick and bushy; indicating a considerable degree of fertility. Seven miles from where we left the Augusta road we reached widow Laseter's, where we stopped to dinner, and were hospitably entertained. The healthiness of the place was visible in the countenances of the family, among whom were two pretty little girls.

A little before we reached this place we passed a church, which we were informed belongs to the methodists. This sect has been long established in Georgia, and the zeal with which they have propagated their opinions, and enforced the principles of morality amongst their votaries, does them credit. They have been of considerable use in society, and I wish them success in every good work. But I cannot see the propriety of some of their proceedings. Their camp meetings may be very well meant, and may be calculated to do some good; but they are a species of “holy fair” at which “grace” is not the only commodity to be purchased; and, from the mode in which they are frequented by the profane and the profligate, it is questionable whether the evil attending them does not overbalance the good. And I can see as little sense in the practice they often have of thumping and making a noise in the time of divine service, thereby converting the temple of the Lord into a scene of confusion and discord, exciting the laughter of the profane, and distracting the serious. We were informed that a little before we reached this place, a poor girl was so affected, that she fell down in a fit; and that a black female preacher, of the name of Dorothy Ripley, frequently attended, and had the art of playing upon the passions so effectually, that she would sometimes trip half a dozen of her hearers. “Let all things be 0044 44 done decently and in order,” says the apostle. Let the methodists go and do likewise.

While we were speaking, we saw a crowd of men, women, and children, who had been at a baptist camp meeting. The baptists are said to be one of the most numerous and influential religious societies in the state. They are also zealous in propagating their opinions, and are pretty austere in their manners; but I did not hear of any excesses in their camp meetings or churches.

Leaving Mrs. Laseter's, we travelled four miles to Waynesborough, and lodged at the house of Mr. Wynne; who to the business of tavern-keeper joins that of post master.

Waynesborough is built principally on one street, and consists of about 40 dwelling houses, church, jail, academy, and courtrooms. It contains 220 inhabitants, of whom above one half are slaves. The land in its vicinity is pretty good; is cultivated a considerable way round; and there are in its neighbourhood some very wealthy planters. It is distant from Savannah river 12 miles, and has a considerable trade in dry goods and groceries.

Having spent a day in this place, and parted with my fellow-traveller, who took the road to Augusta, I set out for Louisville on Tuesday the 1st of July, at five o'clock in the morning. Five miles from Waynesborough I came to a fine spring, and descended a considerable way by a stony path to a rivulet, on which I heard the sound of several mills. The sound of machinery is always grateful to my ear, and the view of the stones excited no small degree of interest; being the first that I had seen in the United States. After travelling nine miles, further, through a barren country, I came to a deserted church, where the road forks. I took the wrong road, which led me out of my course among a number of plantations. I found the inhabitants were principally Irish people, by one of whom I was informed of my mistake, and got directions as to the best method of rectifying it. The family were at breakfast, consisting of pork, potatoes, and coffee; and I was hospitably invited to partake, but I declined it; and, pursuing the directions received, I soon reached the waggon road from Savannah, and arrived at Louisville, at 10 o'clock.

Louisville is the present capital of the state of Georgia, and is situated on the north-east bank of the Ogechee river, 70 miles from its outlet, and 100 miles west from Savannah. It consists of about a hundred dwelling houses, and contains about 550 inhabitants, of whom nearly one half are slaves. It is built on an elevated situation, and there is a pretty extensive view to the westward; but considerable marsh effluvia is generated on the banks of the river, which renders the place rather unhealthy. The country in the neighbourhood is well cultivated; and Louisville contains a civil, well-bred society. There are ten dry-goods and grocery stores in the place, and they have a considerable inland trade. Louisville is at present the seat of government, but it is about to be removed to Milledgeville, a new settlement, about 50 miles distant.

It was my intention to go further up the country, and I had every thing prepared for that purpose; but in the evening I was suddenly seized with a fever, which defeated my object, and at one time threatened very serious consequences. The day had been uncommonly hot and sultry; the thermometer stood as high as 93½° in the shade. In the evening there was a cool thunder gust, and the night got very close and sultry. I went to bed early; but I had scarcely lain down when I found the fever come on with extreme violence. I was in danger of suffocation, and ran to the window to get fresh air; but all was still—there was not a breath of air stirring. I observed three beds in the room, empty, and thought I would try an experiment: I wrapped myself up in a blanket, and taking all the clothes of the three beds, I threw them over me. I had a small bottle of Madeira wine prepared for the journey, of which I took a little, and laid it at my head. My pulse rose to 130, and I suffered the most excruciating pain for about half an hour, when a profuse perspiration broke out and relieved me. I partook freely of the wine, and kept up the perspiration until morning, when the fever was quite gone; but I was debilitated to such a degree that I could hardly stand.

On getting up, I judged it expedient to take medical advice and applied to a Dr. Powell who prescribed some medicine, and 0046 46 advised me to decline going further up the country at present, the season being quite too far advanced for travelling. He recommended to stop two or three days in Louisville, and then to cross over to Augusta by the way of Richmond Springs, where I could stop a few day, and in case I found I could not travel from Augusta on horseback, I could take the stage. This advice I resolved to follow, and made my arrangements accordingly.

Having, in consequence of this determination, a little time to spare, I wished to apply it to the best advantage, and I was kindly assisted by my friend Dr. Powell. He invited me to his house, and introduced me to Mrs. Powell, a very sensible judicious lady, by whom I was treated with marked attention.

The doctor and his lady gave me every information that could be desired, and I was finally invited to take a bed at their house, by which means I was relieved from the bustle of a public tavern, and the still more disagreeable sting of the musquetoes with which the bedrooms in it were infested.

On Friday, the 4th of July, I had quite recovered from my indisposition, and walked out in the morning to see the state-house. It is a good building of brick, about 50 feet square, and consists of two stories, having three apartments each, and a large lobby. The house of representatives meet in an apartment on the lower floor, and the other two are occupied as the secretary's office, and the land office. The upper story consists of the senate chamber, the executive office, and the treasury. The offices were all shut except the land office; I went into it, and saw a map of the newly acquired territory, or purchase , as it is called; concerning which the legislature had recently passed an act that was the subject of considerable animadversion in the state.

This territory is situated between the Oakmulgee and Oconee rivers; and was lately acquired in exchange with one of the Indian tribes. The land is said to be rich and valuable; and it is very extensive, consisting of about 100 tracts, of 12 miles by 8. It is to be disposed of by lottery, in which every citizen of the United States who has resided three years in Georgia, is entitled to a draw for 200 acres; and those who get the prizes have to pay 12 dollars, being the expence of surveying only.

This I regard as a very improper way of disposing of public property, and it is peculiarly baneful to practise it under the representative system. Property, when public, belongs to every member 0047 47 of the community, and no alienation ought to take place without securing alike the rights of all; but this can never be done by a lottery, which is a game of chance,—and all cannot be gainers. To the gainer it is more than well—he gets an advantage over his neighbour, and is satisfied; but who indemnifies the loser?

In this case would it not have been better for the state to have retained it, and sold it out at the market price? The funds arising from it might have been usefully applied in making roads and bridges, in improving the navigation of rivers, draining marshes, &c. Legislators have a most important trust reposed in them, and should never sacrifice great national objects to obtain temporary popularity.

This being the anniversary of American independence, the day was ushered in by the firing of great guns; and military companies had collected in Louisville, from the whole country round. On my return to the tavern, I found a considerable number of the military assembled there. I was waited on by a committee of the artillery company, and received a very polite invitation to dine with them, which I accepted with pleasure, being anxious to observe the mode of celebrating this day, so important in the annals of America.

About 3 o'clock we sat down to dinner. The captain took his place at the head of the table, the oldest lieutenant at the foot; the committee gave the different orders, and all were on an equal footing. Several of the state officers dined with them.

After dinner they drank Madeira wine to a series of toasts, one for each state, which had been previously prepared. Among the number were “The day we celebrate;” “The land we live in;” “the president of the United States;” “Memory of general Washington.” “Memory of Benjamin Franklin.” Memory of John Pierce,” &c. Each toast was followed by a discharge of artillery, and the music played an appropriate air. A number of excellent songs were sung, and the afternoon was spent with great conviviality and good humour.

Having several calls to make in the town, I left the table early, but returned again in the evening, when I found that the cordial drop had added greatly to the elevation of the animal spirits of the company. They had also received an addition to their number, by several military officers high in command, among whom was major-general Jackson. Having occasion to give a toast, I 0048 48 availed myself of that opportunity, to impross them with favourable sentiments towards my native country. America had been long regarded with a jealous eye by the councils of Britain, and an almost total alienation of affection was the consequence. I knew that Mr. Fox's administration was favourably disposed towards America, and I was inclined as far as I had opportunity, to impress the Americans with that belief. Accordingly, after thanking the company for the honour they had conferred upon me, and assuring them of my own friendly regard for the country, I proposed as a toast, “Mr. Fox, and the independent whigs of Britain. May their joint endeavours with the government of the United States be the means of reconciling the differences between the two countries; and to the latest posterity may Americans and Britons hail one another as brothers and as friends.” This was cordially received, and drank accordingly; and immediately after I was introduced to and politely received by the visiting officers.

The whole of my observations in this place tended to convince me, that the American character was very indifferently understood in Britain; and, indeed, very much misrepresented. I was satisfied from every thing I saw and heard, that there was no animosity against the British people whatever; and that the animosity against the British government was the consequence of what they conceive to be a series of injuries long persevered in, and some of them even justified on the score of privilege.

Great mistakes may be committed, by judging of the American character from what is to be seen in the seaports. Nothing can be more erroneous than a judgment so formed. The commercial cities of America are like those of other countries, and principle is often sacrificed at the shrine of commerce; while a considerable part of the commerce of the United States is carried on by foreigners, each so anxious to extend the trade with his native country, in which he is most interested, that the tone of national sentiment is often lost, or but indistinctly seen, in the conflicting opinions which are every day promulgated.

To view the American character fairly, we must go into the interior of the country, and there the first remark will probably be, that the inhabitants have a spirit of independence, and will brook no superiority. Every man is conscious of his own political importance, and will suffer none to treat him with disrespect. Nor is this disposition confined to one rank; it pervades the whole 0049 49 and is probably the best guarantee for the continuance of the liberty and independence of the country.

It has been remarked, that this disposition may encourage rudeness; but I have not yet seen it. As the people will bend to no superiority, they really affect none; and I am impressed with the belief, that it is a stranger's own fault, if he does not feel very happy among them.

Saturday, July 5th. I left Louisville at 5 o'clock in the morning, and travelled through a barren, sandy country, twenty miles to breakfast. From thence, I travelled eight miles more, through pine woods, to Richmond Springs, which I reached to dinner. Towards the springs, the country gets elevated, and agreeably uneven; but the soil is miserably poor. The springs have no other medicinal quality than what is conferred by limestone, of which there is here a considerable bed; and there is a fine rivulet, which Mr. Posner, the proprietor, has very judiciously diverted into a bathing-house; and, at a great expence, has converted the whole into bathing quarters, with ample accommodations. I staid two days at this place, and found my situation very comfortable. I had an opportunity of bathing in the pure spring water once or twice a-day, and had limestone water, pure from the rock, to drink. Our victuals were good, and the cookery excellent. My health I found re-established, and my spirits recruited; so that every thing concurred to render the place agreeable.

And yet this place, which might be so beneficial to Georgia, is neglected. Mrs. Posner is a woman of colour, and is disliked by the Georgian ladies, who will not go to her house. Where the ladies will ot go, the gentlemen will not go, and so poor Mr. Posner does not get a proper reward for his exertions, and the Georgians lose the benefit of one of the sweetest summer retreats in all the country.

I was really sorry to learn this tale, for I was exceedingly well pleased with madam Posner's attention. The old man is a sort of poet too, and, though his rhymes are not to be compared with those of Pope or Milton, yet they are humourously recited, and in a dialect that never fails to excite risibility. He favoured me with a copy of verses, which he addressed to a little swindling Jew of my acquaintance in Savannah, who, he said, had cheated him; and of which the concluding stanza will be sufficient to satisfy the reader of his poetical powers. 7

But it surely was a great sin, To send me common whisky in place of Hollands gin. The worst remains behind,— To send me common Malaga, in place of good Maderia wine.

Monday, July 7th. Set out for Augusta, at 4 o'clock in the morning. The road, which is pretty good, runs through a hilly, uncultivated tract of country, on which there are some settlements, with several creeks, and saw and grist mills. I reached Augusta, which is sixteen miles from the springs, at 9 o'clock.

Augusta is situated on a handsome plain, on the south side of Savannah River, 127 miles from Savannah, and contains about 2100 inhabitants, of whom above one-half are slaves. The public buildings are, two churches, an academy, a court-house, jail, a market-house and several public warehouses. The town is at the head of large boat navigation, and carries on a very extensive and profitable trade, both with Savannah and the back country. Many of the merchants are wealthy, and import their goods; and the greater part of the others purchase in New York. The town was orignally settled by emigrants from Scotland: but the society is now very mixed, and probably those of Irish extraction are the most numerous. The inhabitants are in general well-informed, and have a considerable taste for literature. They are affable in their deportment, and polite and hospitable to strangers.

The country round Augusta is agreeably diversified, and well cultivated. The whole plain, on which Augusta stands, is remarkably fertile; and towards the south-west, the country rises into considerable hills, interspersed with fertile plains, remarkably favourable for the culture of cotton; and the cotton plantations are in a very thriving state. This is reckoned the boundary between the high and low country. The falls in the river are three miles above Augusta, and immediately on leaving the town for the westward, the great contrast between this and the low country is seen: in place of swamps, marshes, and sandy deserts, the senses are gratified by high rising grounds, rich verdure in the woods, and clear streams of water.

I remained in Augusta, from the 7th to the 14 of July, during which period, I made several little excursions to the country, to see the cotton plantations, the greater part of which were in a thriving state. The river is here 500 yards broad, and very deep; and I found the trade upon it to exceed my expectations. The weather was hot and sultry, the thermometer, varying from 88° to 94°, though one day it fell as low as 72°. I was well pleased with the civilities of the inhabitants, and I left Augusta with sentiments of friendly regard towards them.

A Mr. Scarborough, of North Carolina, gave me a very warm invitation to visit him when I was in the upper country, and I resolved to cross the Savannah River, and return by his place. I accordingly left Augusta on the 14th of July, at 11 o'clock, and, travelling about three miles through the level plain on which the city stands, I crossed the river by a flat boat. The road rises, on the Carolina side, to a considerable eminence, but the soil is poor and sandy. At five miles from the river, I called at a very handsome plantation, belonging to a Mr. Taylor, by whom I was hospitably detained to dinner. A planter from the neighbourhood was there, and, as his plantation lay on my route, I availed myself of his company, and had a very agreeable ride, of twelve miles, to the saw-mill and store of a Scots gentleman, where I stopped for the night.

On the 15th, at day-break, I proceeded on my journey, through a low, swampy, barren country, where the road forked so often, that I travelled with difficulty; but, after missing my way several times, I reached Mr. Scarborough's at 11 o'clock, where I found a most hospitable welcome.

On my way I passed many creeks and saw-mills, and I learned that a considerable trade, in this part of the country, consists in sawing timber into boards and planks, called lumber , and floating them down the river to a market.

Mr. Scarborough has a very comfortable establishment, consisting of a good farm, a store, and saw-mill; and, being much respected, has the best trade in this part of the country. On going into the store, I was surprised to observe the vast variety of articles it contained; consisting of dry goods, groceries, hardware, earthenware, medicines, &c. I was informed, that the mode of doing business was to give a credit to the planters till the crop was ready for market, and then to take their surplus 0052 52 produce, consisting principally of cotton, in payment. The business was conducted by a discreet Englishman, and they had an excellent run; but I learned that country stores had multiplied to such an extent, that the business was overdone generally, and people would need to be very cautious in dealing with country merchants.

Having been most hospitably entertained by this family for two days, I took my departure for Savannah, on Thursday, 17th July, and rode 28 miles through a very barren country, containing few settlements, to the house of a Mrs. Dunn, where I stopped for the night.

Friday, 18th. Set out at daylight, and travelled through a more dismal country than any that I had yet seen. From Mrs. Dunn's to Sisters's ferry, on the Savannah river, 144 miles distant, there is hardly a single settlement. The country is perfectly level, except towards the river, where there are a few sand-hills; the woods are mostly pine, and I found some settlements had been attempted, and abandoned by the settlers. At one of these I met with a considerable disappointment: I came to a fork of the road, and, seeing a plantation at a distance, I rode to it, to inquire the right way; but, lo! on my arrival there, I found it inhabited by goats only.

I arrived at the river about nine o'clock, and crossed the ferry in a flat boat. The river is here about 250 yards broad, and flows with a majestic sweep. I travelled nearly a mile through a muddy swamp, in which the horse was frequently up to the knees, and I was much annoyed by musquetoes. From this swamp, the ground rises abruptly, to a considerable elevation, and bears evident marks of having been at one time the bank of the river. From hence I travelled about a mile, when I came into the Savannah road, not far from King's tavern, mentioned in the fourth chapter. I found the Savannah road now dry and good, and I travelled on with great expedition to Berry's, where the day being very hot and sultry, I proposed to remain for the night.

Towards two o'clock, the weather became cool, with an east wind, and I set out for Savannah; but I had not travelled far, when I saw all the signs of an approaching storm. To the east, the atmosphere was black and dismal; the wind was irregular, and sometimes whistled violently; I could see the lightning flash in the clouds, and heard the thunder roar at a distance; but I 0053 53 was tempted by the coolness of the air to proceed, and observing that the settlements were pretty thick by the way side, I resolved not to take shelter until there was absolute necessity. While I was meditating thus, I was suddenly and dreadfully alarmed. A stream of electric fluid, apparently as thick as a man's wrist, darted suddenly from a black cloud, almost right over my head, and dividing in the middle of the road, a few yards before me, struck the trees on each side, with a shock which made the whole woods ring. This was instantaneously followed by such a peal of thunder, as made my horse spring two or three feet high. I rode with increased speed, resolved to take shelter in the first house, but seeing no immediate appearance of rain I kept on my course to Dasher's, 20 miles from Savannah. Having stopped here some little time, I observed the storm to spend its force in the eastward, and, being satisfied it was over, set out for Savannah; and, after an agreeable ride, reached the city at seven o'clock in the evening. I travelled, this day, 52 miles; and my whole journey was about 300.

I remained in Savannah until the 27th of July. The weather was very hot and sultry, but the city continued pretty healthy. I was surprised to observe the vast emigration to the northward at this time, every vessel for New York, Philadelphia, Boston or Baltimore, being quite crowded with passengers. I had once an intention of spending a few months on the sea islands with a friend, from whom I had a very warm invitation; but, in consequence of letters from New York, I was induced to alter my determination, and go to that city.

Having arranged my business, and fixed upon a plan of correspondence with my friend in Savannah, I engaged a passage on board the brig Sally, captain Ansdell; passage money 20 dollars, and stores about 28. My fellow-passengers were a Mr. M'Gee and Mr. Enoe, of Savannah; Mr. Sayre, of New York; and a Mr. Scott, from the West Indies.

We went on board, on Sunday morning, the 27th July, at six 0054 54 o'clock, and at half past six set sail. The breeze was light, but fair; and, the tide being in our favour, we glided down the river very pleasantly; passed the lighthouse at 11 o'clock, and at 12 crossed the bar, and discharged the pilot. New York is distant from hence, by calculation, 615 geographical miles, in a direct line; but the projection of the coast at cape Hatteras obliges vessels to steer considerably to the eastward, so that they have to sail nearly 800 miles. They generally make sail for the gulf stream in going north, that they may have the benefit of the current.

We were favoured with a southerly wind, and kept a course a little to the north of east, till we reached the longitude of 78°, when we steered a course nearly parallel to the coast, about northeast. Here we were in the middle of the gulf stream, which by calculation, carried our vessel 37 miles in 24 hours, which would be a current of little more than a mile and a half an hour; but it is generally supposed that the current, at this place, is upwards of two miles.

We continued to have a favourable breeze, and made a good run, without meeting with any circumstance worthy of remark, until Saturday, the 2d August, when we experienced a very severe gale, which almost upset the vessel. The wind, which had been hitherto from the south and west, shifted to the south-east, and was accompanied by thick foggy weather. We were within 30 or 40 miles of Sandy Hook, and the wind was fair; but the gale increased, and the weather was too thick to see a pilot boat; so that the captain judged it expedient to stand out to sea. A gun-boat was a little astern, and followed our example. The gale increased almost to a hurricane, accompanied by thick rainy weather; the captain was carrying as much sail as possible, so as to weather Long Island, which, by calculation, was now but 20 miles to leeward. Being a good deal accustomed to rough weather, I was lolling in an after-birth, looking out at the cabin window, and beholding the effect of the gale on the ocean: when, all of a sudden, I found the vessel heel to leeward, and heard a great noise on deck. I started up with an intention of going upon deck, but the vessel was quite on her beam ends, and I had to swing myself along by the cabin births; and on reaching the gangway, I found the passengers all crowded into it, and in tears. I reached it just in time to hear the captain cry “cut the halliards,” and immediately the sails were shivered to pieces, and the vessel righted. But our 0055 55 danger was by no means over; the vessel had not now the necessary sail to carry her out to sea; and, the captain said, if the gale continued, we must inevitably be driven ashore on Long Island. He was much affected, and in tears. He was a pleasant little man, and I really felt for him. I had heared somewhere that south-east gales on the coast of America, seldom lasted above 10 or 12 hours; and, as this one had now continued upwards of nine hours, I endeavoured to console him with the idea, that the chance was greatly in our favour. He admitted it was so, but could not help being affected while there was any chance against us, and the vessel in her present state. While we were speaking, I chanced to look to the south-west, and observed a small speck of blue sky through the turbulent atmosphere. I pointed it out to the captain, and I never saw a man so sensibly affected with sudden joy. He affirmed the gale was over, and in a few minutes all was still and calm. The wind shifted to the north-west blowing a delightful cool breeze, and shortly after there was not a cloud to be seen in the horizon. We put about the vessel, and stood in for the land; but the wind was now right against us, and we made little progress. However we had time to patch up our sails, and made the best of our way towards our destined port. The weather continued favourable, and on the 3d of August, at daylight, we saw the high lands of Never Sink; at 10 o'clock, we saw the light-house, distant 10 or 12 miles; soon after which we had a fine view of Long Island, Staten Island, the bay, and numerous vessels inward bound. The breeze continued light, so that it was 4 o'clock before we received a pilot; after which we came to anchor five or six miles south-east of the light-house. This pilot gave us information regarding the death of John Peirce, the seaman who was killed by a shot from the Leander; and told us that he had been on board several coasting vessels himself which had been fired at by the Cambrian and Leander, on the conduct of whose officers he reflected in very bitter terms.

On the morning of the 4th we set sail, but the breeze died away in a short time, and we again came to anchor within half a mile of the beach, a little to the south of the light-house. At 11 a small breeze sprung up from the south, and we again weighed, anchor. At half past 12 we passed the light-house, and, the breeze increasing, we continued our course at a good rate, much gratified with the prospect round us. Staten Island, rising to a considerable elevation, and clothed with verdure, was right ahead. Long Island 0056 56 was on our right, with a pretty view of the Narrows between them; the high lands of Never Sink, astern, and the high lands of the Jerseys, to the westward; with the great confluence of waters, and crowded shipping formed altogether a most beautiful picture: and it probably made a greater impression upon me than it would had I arrived direct from Europe,—the dull scenery of Georgia and South Carolina acting as a foil.

At half past two we passed the Narrows, the channel between Long Island and Staten Island, about three quarters of a mile broad; and immediately after New York, distant about 10 miles, with the bay and shipping, opened to our view; which had a very fine effect. At half past 3 we arrived at the quarantine ground, which is beautifully situated on a small bay on the east side of Satten Island, and having got a pass from the health officer, we set sail for New York. I was very much gratified with the view, in our passage upward. There are several islands in the bay, and the scenery on each side is really beautiful; the city too is adorned with a number of spires, which have a fine effect, and in approaching it we passed a pretty point, planted with trees, called the Battery. But we could not land at the city. By the health laws, all cotton, after a certain season, must be landed at Brooklyn, on Long Island; at which we arrived at 6 o'clock in the evening. From thence I passed over to the city; and immediately waited on Mr. Stewart, a native of Perth, in Scotland, and an old acquaintance; from whom, and his amiable wife, I received a most friendly welcome, and a kind invitation to spend the summer with them, which was cordially accepted.

New York is situated on the south-west point of York island, at the confluence of Hudson and East rivers, in north latitude 40° 40′. The length of the city on East river is nearly two miles; and it extends along the north river nearly as much. Its average breadth is about one mile, and its circumference six. It consists of about 15,000 houses, including public buildings and ware-houses; and the inhabitants are estimated at about 80,000. By the census 0057 57 of 1800; they amounted to 60,489, but the increase has been very great since. * The houses are generally built of brick, with slated or shingled roofs; and many of them are handsome.

The plan of the city is not uniform. In the old part of the town some of the streets are crooked, and many of them are too narrow; but all the modern part is built on a good plan; and some of the new streets are uncommonly elegant. Broadway is the finest street in the city, and from its importance and great beauty it merits a particular description. It commences at the Battery, on the south-west point of the city, and runs in a north-east direction about two miles and a half, where it forms a junction with the Bowery road. The breadth of this street, including the side pavements, is about 80 feet, and it is regular, during its whole length. It is ornamented with rows of poplar trees on each side, and a number of public buildings are situated on it, particularly the Custom-house, Trinity church, St, Paul's church, the city public buildings, the Mechanics' Hall, and the Hospital. The street rises by a gradual ascent from the Battery, about half a mile, and is, at its greatest elevation, opposite the city buildings. Its course is through the highest part of the island. Greenwich-street is next in importance: it rises also at the Battery, and, running nearly due north upwards of two miles, connects the city with the village of Greenwich.—Pearl-street is one of the most important in the city, in point of trade; it rises also near the Battery, and runs nearly parallel with the East river to Cherry-street; from thence it runs to the northward, and falls into Chatham-street. † Cherry-street is a continuation of Pearl-street, and runs along the East river till it is terminated by a bend of the river.—Bowery-lane is upwards of 100 feet wide, rises at Chatham-street, and, connected with the Boston road, forms a junction with Broadway, as before mentioned. The other most important streets are Wall-street, where the most of the banks and public offices are situated, Chatham-street, where the theatre is situated, Front-street, Water-street, and Broad-street.

That part of the city which has been recently laid out on East river is constructed on a handsome plan, the streets crossing one another at right angles; and there are several public squares. Of these there are by far too few in the city, and they hardly merit notice. The Battery, before mentioned, is a pretty piece of ground, and 8 0058 58 commands all elegant view of the bay, islands, narrows, and shipping; but it is quite small, consisting of a few acres only. There is a small triangular piece of ground, called the Park, in front of the public buildings, which is very ornamental; and these are all the public walks of which New York can boast. Would it not be well, in laying out cities, to make a large reserve of public property, while land is cheap? Hyde Park at London, the Green of Glasgow, and the Inches of Perth, are instances of its utility.

The public buildings are numerous. The first in importance is the City Hall, fronting the Park; it is now erecting, of white marble, and will, when finished, be the most elegant building in America, and few in Europe will surpass it. The others are Federal Hall, Custom-House, College, Coffee-House, Mechanics' Hall, Theatre, Hospital, Prison, Bridewell. There are seven episcopal churches, five presbyterian, two Dutch, three methodist, two baptist, two quaker meeting-houses, one German, one Lutheran, and one French Calvinistic church, one seceder, one Scots reformed church, one church each for universalists, congregationalists, Moravians, and Africans, and one Jewish synagogue.

There are five public markets in the city, of which the principal is the Fly-market; and these are well supplied with wholesome provisions, vegetables, fruit and fish; and the prices are generally reasonable. A few of them may be quoted. Beef, mutton, and veal, 9 to 12 cents * per pound; a turkey 75; a goose 62; ducks and fowls about 25 each; eggs 14 per dozen; butter 22 per lb.; tea—souchong 75, hyson 125; coffee 20 per lb.; sugar 12, refined 20. Bread is regulated by flour, which is at present 8 dollars per barrel. Fish and fruit plenty and cheap. Madeira wine 2 ½ dollars per gallon; claret 3 dollars per dozen; brandy, rum, and gin, 1 ¼ dollars per gallon.

There are a number of schools in the city, and the college, in which two of the professors are Scotsmen, is reckoned a very excellent seminary of education. To the north of the city, near Greenwich, stands the state-prison, modelled upon the plan of that of Philadelphia; and it is said to be one of the most benevolent institutions ever established in any country.

The city is well situated for trade. Having a spacious harbour, and easy access to the ocean at all seasons of the year, and being in a central situation in the United States, it must necessarily always 0059 59 command a large share of the foreign trade of the country; and, having the command of Hudson's River, navigable with its branches upwards of 200 miles, and the East River, with Long Island Sound, it has a great share of the internal trade of Jersey, of Vermont, of Connecticut, of Rhode Island, and of Massachusetts; besides the whole of the fertile interior country, which, on the other hand, furnishes every kind of produce and provisions by an easy water carriage, and at a reasonable rate.

The exports from New York amounted, in 1805, to 23,582,252 dollars, of which 15,484,883 dollars was foreign produce. The imports probably amount to upwards of 25,000,000; but it is to be observed that New York exports and imports a great portion of the commodities of other states.

The situation of New York I should reckon very healthy; yet it is sometimes dreadfully afflicted with sickness; which circumstance, I am rather inclined to think, arises from a defect in the police, which does not seem to be conducted in a manner becoming the wealth and splendour of this fine city. The buildings are, in many places, too crowded: many of the wharves are ill constructed, and some of the docks project into the city, especially from the East river, to the great annoyance of the inhabitants. The common sewers are incomplete, and there is no supply of fresh water to sweeten and purify the streets; but, beyond all, they have adopted the system of sinking necessaries, which accumulates such a collection of latent filth, that the steams of it are sometimes perceptible at two miles distance.

I soon got well acquainted with New York, and was much pleased with the affability and polite deportment of the inhabitants. The gentlemen whom I had occasion to see were mostly merchants, who are distinguished as men of business; and generally so well acquainted with the nature of their own trade, that they can tell the value of a piece of goods almost as correctly as a Manchester or Glasgow manufacturer. The female society are polished and well bred; they have not, generally speaking, that florid glow of health for which the Scottish ladies are distinguished; but they are, I think, fully as handsome in their persons and features.

I heard but little politics among those with whom I associated; but I observed a good deal in the newspapers, and two of them were very coarse and scurrilous. They were on different sides of the political question, of course, and substituted abusive language 0060 60 and personal declamation for reasoning. When a person looks into a newspaper, it is to see the news of the day, of which there is generally a summary in the leading paragraph; but, contrary to every thing I had ever seen before, one of these papers began by abusing a cotemporary, and the other returned the compliment, with interest. I notice this circumstance because it made a forcible impression upon me, and because similar circumstances are often resorted to in Britain, to represent the free press in America as in the last stage of depravity. A free press is a great national blessing; but, like the best medicines, it becomes a most deadly poison by abusing it An editor of a public paper assumes a most important station in society; his sentiments spread far, and have a great influence upon the public mind; he is responsible for every word he publishes; and it is not enough that he adhere to truth himself; he is bound to take care that none other publish falsehood through the medium of his paper: a regard to the public good also requires that truth should be promulgated in decent language; and nothing should be introduced into a public paper, with which the public have nothing to do. Whenever the personal feelings of the editor have a tendency to violate this rule, they should be immolated on the altar of public decorum.

Party politics is here as well as in Britain, a noisy subject; and the question between the parties not being well defined, it is difficult to understand it. From the best account of it which I could procure, the schism seems to have taken place about the time of the adoption of the federal constitution, which gave rise to very animated discussions, in which those who were in favour of it were styled federalists , and those opposed to it antifederalists. It now receives the approbation of the whole community; but the distinction of parties continues, under the names of federalists and democrats. They equally lay claim to the title of republicans , and are, often styled federal republicans and democratic republicans. It was in vain that I looked for a satisfactory account of the matter in the New York papers which I had an opportunity of seeing: but I observed in one of them that the federalists were styled the disciples of Washington, and the democrats the supporters of Jefferson. I thought I would discover the difference in the declared opinions of these two eminent characters. I accordingly turned to general Washington's Farewel Address, and Mr. Jefferson's Inaugural Speech; but the sentiments inculcated in these two papers appeared to me to be precisely 0061 61 the same. The one recognizes popular government, and recommends union, obedience to the laws, religion and morality, and to keep party spirit within bounds; the other declares that the will of the majority, legally expressed, is the law of the land; and recommends harmony and affection, with the free exercise of reason, of religion and of the press. Professing to act under these sentiments, it is somewhat singular that there should be a difference at all; but, to use the words of one of the characters above alluded to, “every difference of opinion is not a difference of principle,” and the political question may be considered as essentially different from what it is in Britain. In Britain the question between whig and tory is whether the controuling power shall be vested in the people or in the crown. In America it is whether it shall be vested in this or that set of men.

Having merely glanced at this subject, I shall dismiss it with a fervent wish for the total extinction of all party spirit, the more to be desired in the United States, as party distinctions are apt to divert the public attention from objects of real practical utility, while the difference in principle among good men is so small, that they should be “all republicans, all federalists”

On the 20th of August, I was introduced to that celebrated character, Thomas Paine. He was confined in New York by a hurt in his leg, and lived in the house of a Mrs. Palmer, widow of the late deistical minister in that city. The gentleman who introduced me was well acquainted with Mr. Paine, and I was politely received as his friend. Paine was sitting in a small apartment, with a number of newspapers before him; and he gave one of them to my friend to read some paragraphs relative to the negociations for peace between Britain and France. In the mean time, I cast my eyes across the table, and, from some MSS. which lay on it, judged he was writing on the subject of religion. The title of one of the pieces was singular, namely, “It is I, Thomas Paine, that speaketh.” I could only see a word here and there of what followed; but, by the scope of it, I presumed that it was some sort of religious creed. I was afterwards informed that it really was so, and that he intended it should be published after his death. When my friend had finished reading the newpapers, they entered into conversation, in which Paine declared decidedly, that there would be no peace. “The war,” he observed, “must inevitably go on till the government of England 0062 62 fell; for it was radically and systematically wrong, and altogether incompatible with the present state of society.” I reminded him, that there was now a whig administration in Britain, who would institute a reform of abuses, cause the constitution to be acted on in its purity, and probably repair all the mischief that had been done by the tory administrations. He shook his head, and said that he knew the English government well, and was convinced that no man, or set of men, would ever be able to reform it; the system was wrong, and it never would be set right without a revolution, which was as certain as fate, and at no great distance in time.

Finding we differed on this point, I changed the subject, and took notice of a little essay which he had written on the yellow fever, which had been published in the newspapers, and attracted considerable attention in the southern states. He seemed to be pleased with this, and, in the course of conversation on the subject, discovered a good deal of that literary vanity of which he has been accused; but it must be acknowledged, that this little piece contains much valuable information. The arguments are ingenious—to me, indeed, quite convincing; and I have conversed with some of Mr. Paine's most strenuous political opponents, who have viewed them in the same light.

Paine is a slender man, rather tall, and has an uncommonly penetrating eye. His face is subject to a scorbutic eruption, which circumstance has probably contributed to propagate the report, that he is habitually intemperate; but I was informed by those who knew him well, that it is not correct. When he meets with a person of his own way of thinking, he will frequently indulge himself to a late hour over a glass of toddy; but seldom carries it to excess. His income is but small; but he is in independent circumstances, having a tract of land, for which he could obtain ten thousand dollars. He is pleasant in conversation, and speaks very much in the style he writes, quite clear and perspicuous.

The following table will afford an idea of the summer weather at New York.

Having judged it expedient to take a journey into the New England states, I engaged a passage on board a Providence packet, and we set sail, at four o'clock, on the afternoon of the 26th of August. Our company consisted of a gentleman and and three ladies from New York, two ladies and two children from Newport, a baptist preacher, a printer, and a major. I soon found out that the major would be an excellent travelling companion, and resolved to humour him accordingly. He was very frank and familiar, and we soon became acquainted; and on exchanging civilities, we found we would have occasion to be together for some time, which we resolved to improve to the best advantage; and we extracted not a little amusement from our adventures, as will be seen anon.

We proceeded up East River with a fine easy breeze, and had a delightful view of the banks on each side, which are well wooded, and adorned with many elegant villas, belonging chiefly to the merchants of New York. Six miles above New York, we passed Hell Gate, a very singular passage, about 300 or 400 yards in breadth, having a ledge of sunken rocks across it in an angular direction, which occasions many whirlpools and cross currents in the water. These, at certain periods of the tide, make a dreadful noise, and render a passage impracticable; but at other times the water is smooth, and a passage easy.

Soon after passing Hell Gate, we entered Long Island sound, and had a fine view. Our company seemed social, and disposed 0064 64 to be happy. The weather was agreeably warm, and we enjoyed ourselves on deck, where we had a number of fine songs, in which a Newport young lady excelled. Towards evening the breeze died away, when we were about 30 miles from New York.

August 27. Early this morning we took a fair wind, which carried us along at the rate of nine or ten miles an hour. The sound widens gradually to the middle, where it is about 25 miles broad; but the day being clear, we had a fine view on both sides of it. On the Connecticut side, the coast is lined with elegant towns, adorned with spires, and the view is very pleasing. Our ladies continued to charm us with their songs, and the major and I were much diverted by a singular courtship, in which the chief agent was a book.

We observed, that our printer paid a good deal of attention to the Newport young lady, the sweet singer. Taking advantage of her taste for poetry and music, he produced his book, and read a sentimental effusion to the lady; and while she was expressing her approbation, he let his hand touch hers, as if by accident. They turned over to another piece, and the lady read on, till she came to a passage with which she seemed to be quite delighted. “Is'nt that beautiful?” said the gentleman, laying his hand gently upon hers. “Beautiful, indeed,” exclaimed the lady. “I'll show you something,” said he, “still more forcible upon the same subject: I beg you'll be seated, ma'am.” The lady was seated. He delivered the book with one hand, and, laying hold of hers with the other, sat down beside her.—She read on. “This is really beautiful,” said she. “Most beautiful, indeed,” said he, and seized this opportunity to put one hand gently round her waist, while he helped her to hold the book with the other. Thus they went on from piece to piece, and from sentiment to sentiment, to the great vexation of the major, who was quite chagrined that the printer should engross the lady wholly to himself, and deprive the company of her agreeable songs and conversation.

About four o'clock in the afternoon, we approached the head of the bound; where, being near the Connecticut side, we had a fine view of New London, appropriately situated on a river called the Thames. Nearly opposite to New London, we passed between two very small islands, within a few yards of each other, and entered a curious passage, called the Race, being the outlet of the sound. There is a chain of islands, which runs across this outlet in an angular 0065 65 direction, and they consequently confine the water into narrow channels, so that the tide, at ebbing and flowing, runs with great violence. We passed it with a light breeze, and the current against us, and consequently we made but little progress; but we got out of it, and all danger, before dark, and proceeded with a light breeze towards Newport, now about 3C miles distant. On our arrival-at the entrance of Narraganset bay, I observed a great quantity of shipping, principally small craft, and was anxious to see this inlet, being esteemed one of the best in America; but it was now 11 o'clock, and too dark to make observations, so I retired to bed; and in the morning, found the vessel at the wharf in Newport.

Newport is situated on the south-west point of Rhode Island, in latitude 41° 29′. It extends about a mile from north to south, along Narraganset bay, and is about one third of a mile in breadth, rising, as it proceeds from the water, by a considerable ascent. The streets cross one another at right angles, and are all well paved. The number of inhabitants, by the census of 1800, was 6739, and the number of houses is about 1100, chiefly built of wood, and painted white. The public buildings are a State-House, Academy, Public Library, four baptist churches, two for congregationalists, and one each for episcopalians, quakers, Moravians, and Jews.

The situation of this city is beautiful, and the salubrity of the climate is proverbial, in consequence of which it becomes a great resort for strangers, particularly from the southern states, during the summer season. It is also noted for the excellent supply of provisions in its market, particularly of fish, of which there is said to be 50 or 60 different kinds. The packets which ply between this place and New York, and Providence, are of great service to the city, and to the public. They are generally under excellent regulations, and afford better accommodations and travelling at a cheaper rate than is to be found in most places of the world. The distance from hence to New York is about 200 miles, which we sailed in little more than SO 50 hours ; and the fare, including bed and provisions, was only nine dollars. From hence to Providence, 30 miles, it is one dollar.

Neport is a favourable situation for commerce, and has one of the most safe and commodious harbours in the world. On the opposite side of the harbour is Goat Island, on which there is a fort and military station. The trade of Newport is principally in shipping; 9 0066 66 and there is a manufactory of cotton, and one of duck, both of which are said to be in a thriving state.

I took a walk round the town with the major, who was well acquainted with it; and from the heights above it we had some fine views. After breakfast, we went on board the packet for Providence.

At half past 9 o'clock we got under weigh, but the wind being right ahead, we made little progress. The day however was fine, and the company agreeable; and, being in no particular hurry, we enjoyed ourselves very much, sailing up this delightful bay. We had all our former company, except one of the ladies of Newport and her children. The other had also intended to stop at Newport; but our printer had exerted his eloquence so effectually as to induce her to go to Providence, to see a friend, with whom she was to live during commencement. Having heard this term frequently made use of, I inquired into the meaning of it; and was informed that it is a public day, held at college, previous to the vacation, on which the students deliver their orations and receive their degrees; and it concludes with a ball, to which all the young ladies, for many miles round, are invited.

After proceeding a few miles, I found we had a state-room full of ladies, in addition to our former company. One of them came out to take the air., She was a tall elegant girl, about 16 years of age, with a complexion and features uncommonly beautiful. The major and I guessed that she would immediately attract our printer's notice. We guessed right, for while we were yet speaking, we saw him pull out his book, and make up to her. She was standing beside the object of his first regard, whom he now turned his back upon; and, under pretence of showing the fine sentimental pieces in the book, went through the whole ceremony of touching hands, and so forth. Our major was astonished, and wondered what could be about the man that he charmed the ladies so; for he was by no means handsome. One of our company remarked that there was an herb in nature, called valerian, which had the remarkable quality of charming the feline tribe; and perhaps there might be some herb which produced a similar effect upon young women, and that the printer must be in possession of it; for he could account for his remarkable success in no other way. The major swore (he was a sad swearer) that this must be the true solution, and wondered if any such herbs were to be found in Georgia, 0067 67 as he would purchase them at any expense. But it appeared that this theory could not be altogether correct, for a small quantity of valerian will charm as many cats as a room will hold, whereas it appeared the printer could only charm one young lady at a time. The Newport lady, perceiving his attention to the stranger, withdrew from him, and we enjoyed part of her agreeable conversation, during the remainder of the passage. He was but short-sighted in the exchange; for this lady, though not so beautiful as the other, had a great deal more animation, which rendered her more interesting; and she was possessed of a great deal of good sense. We had a number of fine songs and stories, and the day passed away most agreeably.

Narraganset bay, up which we sailed, is 33 miles in length, from south to north, and, towards Newport, about 12 miles in breadth, including the islands which it embosoms, of which the principal are, Rhode Island, Canonicut, Prudence, Patience, Hope, Dyer's, and Hog Island. It receives the waters of Providence, Taunton, and Patuxet rivers; and contains five harbours, besides those of Newport and Providence. Its banks are clad with settlements, and there are a number of pretty little towns, the view of which, from the water, has a fine effect.

At 6 o'clock we reached Providence, where we saw a good deal of shipping, and I was surprised to find a vessel there of upwards of 900 tons burden. I was informed that she was in the East India trade, of which there is a considerable share at this port, and that there would be a sale of India goods next day.

The major, who had often travelled this way, conducted me to a boarding-house, where having engaged lodgings, we went out to take a view of the town, with which he was well acquainted. The ground rises to a considerable elevation above the town, from whence we had a fine view; and we returned to our lodgings highly pleased with the excursions of this day.

Providence is beautifully situated on the head of Narraganset bay, and is divided into two parts by the Providence river, over which there is a good bridge, with a draw in it, to allow vessels to pass. The west side of the town is low, but the cast side rises, by a rapid ascent, to a considerable elevation. The number of inhabitants, in 1800, was 7614, and they are rapidly increasing. * The public buildings are, a court-house, market-house, a public

* By the census of 1810, they are 10,071.

Providence has a pretty extensive shipping trade, and several manufactories are establised in the town and neighbourhood, which are said to be in a thriving state.

Being now about to leave this little interesting state, I shall devote a chapter exclusively to a geographical description of it, which plan I intend to follow in the course of my travels. For the necessary information on this branch, as well as the description of cities, towns, and rivers, I must be indebted, in a great measure, to the researches of those who have gone before me; but I shall arrange the subject on a new plan,which may admit of considerable variety, and have the beneficial effect of maturing my own judgment on American geography.

To American manners and education I shall pay a little extra attention, because I begin to find that I have been labouring under considerable prejudices concerning them. It is very common for the natives of Britain to set up their own country as the model of all perfection, and to doubt the existence of equal advantages any where else; and to no country has that doubt been more extended than to the United States of America. It is really surprising to see, that notwithstanding the great intercourse between the two countries, there should be so much ignorance, or rather misinformation, in Britain, regarding America; and it is to this circumstance that I attribute my own prejudices; for as to what are called natural prejudices, I disclaim them. I have no wish to see things otherwise than as they are; and I am very glad to observe that this people have a polish of manners, and speak a style of language, which must be the result of education, at least equal to what exists in Britain. And this does not appear to be confined, to the sea-port towns: the couutry, in this quarter, is thickly settled with a civilized, industrious people.

Rhode Island is situated between 41° 22′ and 42° north latitude, and 5° and 5° 50′ east longitude * , being 45 miles in length, and 43 in breadth, and contains 1548 square miles, or 990,720 acres.

The face of the country is agreeably uneven, some places being hilly, but not mountainous. Narraganset, already mentioned, is the principal bay. The rivers all flow into this bay, and have been already noticed.

Iron ore is found in great plenty, and the state abounds with limestone and marble. Some copper ore and load-stone have also been found; and there are several mineral springs, but of no great importance.

The soil is various, and a great part of it good, though better adapted for grazing than for grain.

The climate is salubrious and healthy; but the winters are sometimes long and severe, commencing in November, and ending in March or April. There is a very short spring, but the summer and autumn are delightful. Volney remarks on this subject, “Were I obliged to select the most favourable spot in America as the place of my abode, my choice would fall upon the southern point of Rhode Island.”

The first settlement was commenced in the year 1636, by Roger Williams, a banished clergyman from Massachussets; and the state was chiefly peopled by emigrants from that country. In 1663, a charter was obtained from Charles II, which is the basis of the present constitution. The country suffered greatly during the revolutionary war; but it is now in a thriving state, increasing in population and wealth. It sends two senators and two representatives to congress † .

The state is divided into five counties and thirty townships, and

† Representatives are sent to congress according to the population, one for every 35,000. Each state sends two senators.

The country is well improved, abounding with towns, villages, and farm-houses. The chief towns are Providence and Newport, already mentioned. The others are, South Kingston , situated on the west side of Narraganset Bay, nearly opposite Newport, and contains 3000 inhabitants. Bristol is pleasantly situated on the bay, about half way between Providence and Newport, and contains 1678 inhabitants. It has a little shipping trade. Warren is a flourishing little town, containing about 1600 inhabitants. It is on the west side of the bay, on the Warren River, and carries on a brisk coasting and foreign trade. Little Compton, East Greenwich , and Compton , are also growing towns. The state is supplied with good roads and bridges, some of which have been constructed on an ingenious plan, and at great expense. No canals have yet been made, but several are projected.

The farms are generally well cultivated, and produce Indian corn, rye, barley, oats, wheat, (though not enough for home consumption,) fruits in great abundance, and culinary vegetables. Butter, cheese, and cyder, are made in great quantities, and of a superior quality.

The manufactures are cotton and linen goods, bar and sheet iron, steel, nails, anchors and other iron work for shipping, sail-cloth, paper, rum, &c. The cotton manufacture is extending, and I was informed that some of those engaged in it were doing well I but it is yet in its infancy, and, being subject to a competition with the organized manufactures of Britain, it must be attended with a considerable degree of inconvenience, and perhaps some risk.

This state is very favourably situated for commerce, of which it has a large share. The exports are grain, flaxseed, lumber, horses, cattle, beef, pork, fish, poultry, onions, butter, cheese, spirits, and cotton and linen goods. The value of exports is about 1,000,000 dollars annually. The imports are European and India manufactures, West India produce, and logwood.

The inhabitants of the country are generally proprietors of the farms they cultivate, and, having no landlord to make their boo to, nor rent to pay, they must be independent. The inhabitants 0071 71 of the towns are merchants, manufacturers, merchanics, seamen, and fishermen. The lands are not entailed, and hence there is no aristocracy; but independence is easily attained by labour. There is no distinction made on account of religious opinions; but every man worships God in any way his conscience dictates, without interfering with his civil rights. There are several benevolent and useful societies in the state, among which may be noticed one “for the abolition of the slave-trade, and for the improvement of the African race.” The state of education is said to be considerably behind that of the other New England states, but is improving. The chief seminary is the college at Providence, already mentioned; and there is an academy at Newport, under good regulations, besides various seminaries throughout the state.

The state legislature consists of a governor, deputy governor, ten senators, and a representative from each township. They are chosen by the pepole twice every year, and, they hold two sessions annually.

There is a rule in travelling this road, that if, on the arrival of the packet, there are three passengers going on to Boston, the stage is bound to go with them at any hour. There were four of us who agreed to go at 5 o'clock in the morning, and we constituted the major master of the ceremonies, to make the necessary arrangement with the landlord. We accordingly rose very early to take our places; but, lo! after waiting a full half hour, there was no stage to be seen, and the major began to suspect the landlord of insincerity. By-and-by he lost all patience, and began to swear most bitterly; he went in search of the landlord, but there was no landlord to be seen; nor, indeed, any of the domestics. However, it was impossible that they could be long proof against the effect of the major's lungs, for he bellowed forth the most dreadful oaths and imprecations that I ever heard, and soon alarmed the servants; but they could not satisfy the major, who

“Roar'd a horrid murder shout, In dreadfu' desperation.”

for the landlord, who at last made his appearance; and the major, with a thundering menace, demanded where the stage was. He rubbed his eyes, and was going to make a reply, but he had not time; for the major held forth fully half an hour in a strain of eloquence peculir to gentlemen of the sea or the sword, and which could hardly find a parallel in the curses wherewithal Dr. Slop cursed Obadiah, on the day in which he tied the knots on his instrument-bag. At last the storm abated a little, and the landlord got leave to speak; but he only made matters worse, for he blundered out that the stage would not go before eight o'clock. The landlord had, in truth, attempted to jockey us. An additional company was to go at eight o'clock; and he and the stage owner, between whom there was a collusion, thought that, notwithstanding the agreement with us, the stage could easily accommodate both; and a few hours, in point of time, was immaterial. But, oh! for the pencil of a Hogarth, to delineate the features of the major when this fact came out. Mercy on us! how he did fume and rage, and stamp and curse! At last he made a spring toward the landlord, and, shaking his cane over his head, swore if he did not bring the stage immediately, he would have satisfaction out of his bones. The landlord got alarmed, and ran as if the devil had been in pursuit of him, and the major, having spent his rage, stood mute. The landlord had not been long gone before a gentleman came up to the house and asked if we were going to Boston, and, on being answered in the affirmative, he told us that he had a new stage, which he would start instantly, provided there were three passengers. This was most delightful news for the major, who told him we would go, provided the stage was brought in ten minutes, so as to disappoint the landlord. An elegant new stage, with good horses, drew up before the door in a few minutes, and, having paid a very moderate bill to the landlady, who, the major observed, was the better man of the two , we got into the carriage. While we were seating ourselves, up came the landlord with the other stage, and the major detained us a few minutes to get a parting word with him. “Now, you rascal,” says he, “you thought to play a Yankee trick upon me; but this is diamond cut diamond for you!” The landlord began to enter a complaint against us for leaving the stage; but he was stopped short by the major, who exclaimed, “Oh! you rascal, I delight in disappointing you: I would not for a thousand—ay, not for ten thousand dollars have wanted this satisfaction. I know money 0073 73 will procure any thing; and I have got more than ever you saw, you vagabond.” So saying, he ordered the driver to proceed.

We travelled but slowly, owing to the road being very bad. We learned that the people of Massachusetts had offered to extend the turnpike to Providence, but the people of this state would not agree to it; and thus the road remained almost impassable. The morning was hazy, so that we could see but little of the country; but it appeared to be indifferently cultivated. We saw great quantities of fruit by the way side; and several waggons, loaded with apples, were on their way to Providence.

The salutation which the major gave the landlord occasioned a good deal of merriment; and one of our company observed that he could put him upon a plan of swearing by rule, by which means he could save him a great deal of trouble, and wear and tear of conscience, in coining oaths. He accordingly produced the anathema of Ernulphus, recorded in the Life and Opinions of Tristram Shandy, which he read aloud, to the great astonishment of the major, and diversion of the company.

About four miles from Providence, we passed Patucket river, and entered into the state of Massachusetts. Here there are very handsome falls, and a little town called Patucket, in which there is a thriving manufactory of cotton yarn and goods. The spinning works are said to be on the most approved principle, and there are several looms going by machinery.

We were informed that the cotton trade had been introduced here by a gentleman from England, a pupil of Arkwright, who had been very successful; that other people were following his example, and that this branch was likely to increase to a great extent in this district. I doubted the power of the people here to become competitors with the manufacturers of England; but I learned that they confine themselves pretty much to coarse goods, and articles of the first necessity; and on turning the whole information, relative to the subject,, in my mind, I found that they had such a number of circumstances in their favour, as were sufficient to balance, if not to overcome, the disadvantages. The principal disadvantage is the high wages which must be paid to the workmen; and it is supposed that the people have a predeliction for agriculture, which has a tendency to prevent them from settling at sedentary employments. This last circumstance is the popular opinion in Britain, and I was impressed with its 10 0074 74 reality myself; but after looking round me in this country, I rather think that it is more specious than solid; for I find there is no want of masons, carpenters, smiths, tanners, shoemakers, hatters, taylors, and other mechanics, none of which are agricultural employments. All these and other branches are organized and practised with persevering industry, because the profits resulting from them are equal to those resulting from agriculture; and other branches will be subject to the same rule. In every community there are a great number of the members who are better adapted for labour in the house than in the field; and the force of this remark is peculiarly applicable to the cotton trade, in which a large portion of the labour is performed by machinery, and the remainder principally by women and children. But all labour is better paid for in America than in Britain. The proportion is probably two to one; and if the cotton trade will afford this advance to the labourers, it will bear a competition with similar manufacturers of Britain, and prosper—not else.

The most striking circumstance in favour of the cotton manufactures is the cheapness of the raw material, which is the produce of the United States. They manufacture here principally upland cotton, and the price, including carriage to this place, is about 20 cents per pound * ; being about 12 cents lower than they can possibly have it in Britain. The next circumstance is the heavy charges to which British manufactured goods are subject before they come into the American market. These may be reckoned at least equal to 45 per cent.: namely, carriage, insurance, and shipping charges, 5 per cent; American duties, 16⅛ per cent.; importer's profit, 10 per cent; American merchant's profit and contingencies, 14½ per cent.

Now, suppose 100lbs of cotton to be manufactured into cloth, of a fabric that will sell at about one shilling sterling in Britain, the number of yards will be about 300; and by producing this in the American market, subject to these different charges, it will afford a data whereby we may calculate the price that can be, afforded to the manufacturer in America; and from thence we may determine the probable increase of the cotton manufacture. It is to be observed that the demand for cotton goods in America is immense, and there is no material competition, except with British manufacturers.

Being nearly double the price paid to the British manufacturer.

It will be observed too, by this calculation, that the cotton is taken at its extreme height, and for every cent that it falls, the proportional advantage to the American manufacturer is increased; because a great part of the difference consists in duties and charges, which are not materially affected by the fall.

It is my opinion, upon the whole, that the cotton manufacture will increase in America; and that it holds out a very good inducement for men of capital to embark in it.

We were now in the state of Massachusetts and had an excellent turnpike road, but being recently cut through a new country, we had no great variety of scenery. The face of the country was agreeably uneven, but the land rather poor and stony 0076 76 Twelve miles from Providence we stopped at the house of a colonel Hatch, the proprietor of the stage, who was along with us. The house is new and commodious, and we got an excellent breakfast, charge 50 cents.

From thence we travelled 99 miles to Dedham. The country, from the reason already stated, is but thinly settled by the road-side. The face of the country is agreeably uneven, and we had many fine distant views. The road-side abounds with fruit, of which the traveller may gather as much as he pleases. Towards Dedham the country improves, and the inhabitants appeared healthy, and in comfortable circumstances.

Dedham is a handsome little village, eleven miles from Boston, consisting of between 3 and 400 houses, and containing about 1500 inhabitants. The houses are mostly built of wood, and painted white. The public buildings are a court-house, three congregational churches, and an episcopal church. There are several grist and saw-mills in the neighbourhood; and the inhabitants carry on a considerable manufacture of shoes and wire-work.

From thence to Boston, the road goes through a beautiful country, abounding with villas and well-cultivated farms, and at a distance to the eastward are high lands approaching nearly to mountains. Wherever I turned my eyes, I was delighted with the view; and being, like the vicar of Wakefield, “an admirer of happy faces,” I was amply gratified by the appearance of the inhabitants, who were cleanly, industrious, and contented. The female part of the community, in particular, appeared to great advantage, having a glow of health, an air of cheerfulness, and a cleanliness of aspect, that I have not seen surpassed.

The country continued to improve as we proceeded towards Boston, in the immediate neighbourhood of which the buildings and pleasure-grounds are uncommonly elegant. We entered the town by the curious passage called the Neck, and drove up to the house of a Mr. Chappotin, in Summer-street, which we reached just in time for dinner. On entering the public room, I found about twenty gentlemen at the dinner-table, and I seated myself beside an elderly gentleman, in a strange dress, with a long beard, who I afterwards learned was the Tunisian ambassador. After dinner, I took a walk round the town with the major, who was well acquainted with it; called upon my fellow-passenger in the Warrington, Mr. Ballard, who was glad to see me; and spent the evening at the boarding-house, much pleased with the excursions of the day.

Boston is built on a peninsula, at the head of Massachusetts Bay, in north latitude 49° 23′. It is at one place two miles long, but the broadest part is not quite half a mile. A great part of the town lies low along the bay; but the ground rises to a considerable elevation in the middle, where the State-House is built, which gives it a very handsome appearance at a distance. The town partakes of the nature of the old towns in England, and is irregularly built, many of the streets being crooked and narrow; but the more modern part is regular, and the streets broad and well paved. The streets, lanes, and alleys amount to above 150; and there are five public squares; but none of them are of great extent, except the Mall , which is a very elegant piece of public ground in front of the State-House.

The number of dwelling-houses is above 3500, and, by the census of 1800, the inhabitants were 24,937; from the increase that has since taken place, it is presumed that the number is now upwards of 30,000. * The greater part of the houses are built of brick, and many of them are spacious and elegant.

The public buildings are the State-House, Court-House, Jail, Concert-Hall, Faneuil-Hall, Alms-House, Work-House, and Bridewell; the Museum, Library, Theatre, and nine congregational, three episcopal, and two baptist churches, with one each for Roman catholics, methodists, and universalists. The public buildings are in general very handsome, and the greater part of the churches are ornamented with spires.

The markets of Boston are well supplied with every kind of country provisions, fruit, and fish. The prices are not materially different from those of New York. Flour is generally a little higher; but cod-fish, which is the universal Saturday dinner, is lower.

Boston is well situated for foreign commerce, of which it has a very large share. The harbour is spacious, and is capable of containing 500 sail of vesels. There are many wharfs constructed, of which the most remarkable is Long Wharf , extending into the bay upwards of 1700 feet. The number of vessels that enter and clear 0078 78 out annually is immense, carrying on a trade to Europe, the East and West Indies, and China, besides a very extensive coasting trade. The exports annually from this port probably amount to upwards of 8,000,000 dollars. The principal manufactures are of iron, leather, paper and glass, which are brought to great maturity, in all the various branches; besides which, they have thriving manufactories of hats, sail-cloth, cards, soap and candles, refined sugar, spermaceti, ashes, &c. There are ten distilleries, two breweries, eight sugar-houses, and several rope-walks in and about the town; but one of the most important branches is ship-building, and the Bostonians seem generally more attached to the shipping trade any other branch. There are in Boston three incorporated banks, besides a branch of the United States' Bank, whose joint capitals amount to upwards of 3,000,000 dollars, and there are three or four insurance-offices, with capitals of 3 or 400,000 dollars each.

There are a number of public societies in Boston, among which may be mentioned the American Academy of Arts and Sciences, Massachusetts Historical Society, Boston Library Society, * Agricultural Society, Mechanic Society, Marine Society, Charitable Fire Society, Humane Society, Medical Society, Dispensary, and the Female Asylum. Public education is on an excellent footing; there are eight or nine public schools, supported at the expense of the town, which are accessible to all the members of the community, free of expense: they are managed by a committee of twenty-one gentlemen, chosen annually, and are under good regulations. Besides these, there a number of private seminaries, at which all the various branches of education are taught; and upon the whole, I believe Boston may challenge a competition on this branch with any city in Europe, Edinburgh, in Scotland, perhaps, excepted.

The fruits of this attention to the improvement of the mind, and the cultivation ofthe benevolent affections, are very apparent in the deportment of the citizens of Boston, who are intelligent, sober, and industrious; and, though much attached to the subject of religion, they are more liberal, generally speaking, than any people I have yet been amongst. The ladies of Boston are generally han 0079 79 some, with fine complexions; and, judging from the sample which I saw, they have a richness of intellect, and a cheerfulness of deportment, that makes them truly interesting. Altogether, Boston is really a fine place. It was here that the revolution originated which terminated in the independence of America: and the town is justly celebrated as being the birth-place of that great luminary in literature and science, Dr. Franklin.

During my stay in Boston, which was only a few days, I went to a number of the public places; among others the State-House State-House, from whence there is a most elegant view of the town, bay, shipping, neck, bridges, and the whole country round, to the distance of from twelve to fifteen miles in each direction, presenting most picturesque scenery, including a number of elegant villages. In one direction you can see twenty miles out at sea, and in another a mountain, said to be distant sixty miles.

The bridges of Boston merit particular attention, being works of great extent and utility, and constructed at a vast expense; a proof of the sagacity and persevering industry of this people. West Boston bridge is upwards of 3000 feet long, and a causeway is connected with it 3000 more, connecting Boston with Cambridge. Charles River Bridge is 1500 feet long, and Malden bridge is upwards of 2400 feet long: they are all built of wood, and have draws in the middle: the toll is reasonable. Long Wharf has already been noticed. The Museum contains a very good collection of natural and artificial curiosities.

Tuesday, September 2d, at 8 o'clock in the morning, I set out by the stage for Salem, distant about seventeen miles. After crossing by Charles River Bridge, already noticed, we passed through Charlestown, a handsome town, which is only separated from Boston by Charles River. It contains about 3000 inhabitants, and has two places of public worship. The United States have a navy-yard and marine hospital here, and towards the west end of the town, close by the river side, is the State-Prison, on the same principle as as those at Philadelphia and New York, and said to be under excellent management. At the north side of the town is Bunker's Hill, celebrated in the history of the American revolution.

Leaving Charlestown, and travelling little more than a mile by the sea coast, we arrived at Mystic River, which we passed by a bridge 2424 feet long, and constructed upon the same principle as those already mentioned. About four miles from thence we passed an extensive swamp, where we were assailed by musquetoes of a very 0080 80 large size. At the farther end of the swamp we passed a floating bridge, and a little after, ascending the bank, we arrived at Lynn, where we stopped to change horses at a very elegant tavern. Lynn is a pretty little town, remarkable for its extensive manufacture of shoes. From thence we travelled to Salem, about seven miles, through a very rugged stony country, but by an excellent turnpike road, made, I was informed, mostly by Irishmen. I may here take occasion to remark that the Irish emigrants are exceedingly useful in this country, and a great portion of the most rugged labour in it is performed by them. The lower orders of the Irish are generally strong, robust men, without money, and with a very slender education: hence, they are generally unfit for any kind of mercantile employment; and those who have not learned some mechanical profession get employment in various branches of labour, for which they are well adapted; and, getting good wages, they soon become independent and happy. Hence, the Irish are remarkable for their attachment to the American government, while many other foreigners, particularly those engaged in commerce, are discontented and fretful.

The morning was damp and hazy, so that the view of the country was not very agreeable; and it was with regret that I observed it began to rain just as I entered my place of destination.

Salem is, next to Boston, the lagest town in Massachusetts, and one of the earliest settled in the state. It is situated on a peninsula formed by two branches of the sea, called North and South Rivers, and consists of about 1500 houses, and contained, in 1800, 9547 inhabitants. The houses are built partly of wood, and partly of brick; and many of them are uncommonly elegant. The principal public buildings are a court-house, five congregational churches, and one each for quakers and episcopalians. Salem carries on a very extensive shipping trade, more business being done here in that line than in any town in the New England states, Boston excepted. There is a ship-yard in Salem, and a considerable manufactory of sail-cloth. A bank has been long established. The inhabitants are said to be industrious and frugal, and the appearance of the town indicates a considerable accumulation of wealth.

On my arrival, I went to see the wharves and shipping, which are very extensive. Salem is remarkable as being the residence of Mr. Gray, reputed the greatest ship owner in America, having a vast number of square-rigged vessels, many of which are in the 0081 81 India trade. One of these vessels was coming into port while I stood on the wharf, and it appeared it would be with considerable difficulty she could get into the harbour, the entrance being very shallow; and I was informed, that in consequence of this circumstance, Mr. Gray was about to remove to Boston.

On my return to the Coffee-House, I found the following sentiment in one of the Salem newspapers: “There is reason to fear that a peace will at length be concluded betwen France and Britain; and if that unfortunately be the case, the independence of the latter is gone for ever, and we may soon look for an attack upon the liberties of America.” In the course of my travels through the United States, I have frequently heard similar sentiments, principally from those professing the greatest regard for Britain; but I must say, that they appear to me to be very incorrect. I grant it is better for Britain, or any other nation, to continue in a state of war, than to make a dishonourable peace, or to submit to have their rights infringed by their neighbours; but the sentiment in question, unqualified as it is, seems to breathe a wish for eternal war. It expresses a dread of Britain making peace at all, and considers war and independence so intimately allied, that the one cannot be given up without the other. But, in my opinion, the greatest curse that ever befel Britain is the present war—one of the greatest blessings to that country would be an honourable and lasting peace. As to the supposed attack upon the liberties of America, I think it proceeds upon a very incorrect view of the subject, and implies an idea highly derogatory to the American character. It is perfectly obvious to me, from what I have seen in this country, that the Americans could maintain their liberties against the whole world combined, and no single nation, however powerful, would be mad enough to make an attack, which would infallibly end in disaster and disgrace. America contains upwards of six millions of free people , and, if invaded, could at a short notice turn out a million of fighting men. This fact is well known in Europe, and would, of course, enter into the calculation of any general who would plan an attack upon the country. He could not hope for success without at least an equal number; and we may safely presume, that an army will never be sent three thousand miles, on an expedition which, though successful, would not pay one thousandth part of the expense.

The afternoon continued wet, and rather cold. I returned to Boston in the evening by the stage. 11

Being at the extremity of my journey to the north-eastward, and in the metropolis of the New England states, I shall, before leaving it, take a view of the states of New Hampshire and Vermont.

NEW HAMPSHIRE

Is situated between 42° 42′ and 45° 13′ north latitude, and 4° 23′ and 6° 10′ east longitude. Its greatest length is 182, and its greatest breadth 92 miles. Its area is 9491 square miles, containing 6,074,240 acres.

The state has about 15 miles of sea-coast, from whence it extends in breadth, and is generally level towards the sea, rising gradually from 20 to 30 miles, when the mountains commence, and these are more lofty than in any other part of the United States; the White Mountains being visible 30 miles out at sea, and computed by Dr. Belknap at 10,000 feet, by Mr. Williams at 7800. There are large and rich valleys among the mountains, and a number of level plains along Connecticut river. There are several lakes in the state, but none of any great importance, except Winnipiseogee , near the centre, 24 miles long, and of unequal breadth, from 3 to 12 miles. It is full of islands, and, being navigable in summer, and frozen over in winter, it proves a considerable convenience to that part of the country. The principal river is Connecticut, which is the boundary line between this state and Vermont. The Piscataqua is the boundary line, for a little way, between this state and the district of Maine; and forms the harbour for the only shipping port in New Hampshire. There is a singular curiosity in the state called the Notch , which is a pass through the mountains, at one place only 22 feet wide, and, being bounded by rocks almost perpendicular, and of great height, presents a scene strikingly picturesque.

The minerals quoted are ochres, isinglass, chrystals, sulphur, free-stone, lead, black lead, and copper; but the most valuable is iron, which is found in many places, and is wrought in considerable quantities.

The soil, near the sea-coast, is in some places sandy, but near 0083 83 the banks of rivers generally good, as is likewise the case in the valleys among the mountains. The mountains are, many of them, rocky and barren, but others are fertile on the brows, and nearly all are covered with timber.

The climate is healthy, but the winters are long and severe, and there are great extremes of heat and cold. Mr. Belknap has observed the thermometer at 18° below 0°, and in summer it has risen to nearly 100°; the average is about 48° or 50°. Snow lies on the ground from three to four months, and the use of sleighs, during that period, is general. The spring is rapid; and the summer and fall are generally pleasant.

The country was first discovered in 1614. The first settlement was made in 1623. The inhabitants took an active part in the revolutionary war, and sent two delegates to congress in 1774; in 1788 they adopted the federal constitution; and the state constitution, as it now stands, was ratified in 1792. The state sends two senators and five representatives to congress.

The state is divided into six counties, and 219 townships, of six miles square each. Its population in 1800 was 183,850, being nearly 20 to the square mile.

Although this appears but a thin population, yet it is to be observed, that a great part of the state is covered by mountains, which are incapable of cultivation. The sea-coast, valleys, and fertile spots, are said to be thickly settled, and these places have kept pace in improvements with the other New England states. Portsmouth , on the Piscataqua river, two miles from the sea, is the principal town, and being the only seaport, it has a pretty good trade; it contains 5,500 inhabitants. Concord is the seat of government, and contains 2050. Dover contains 2062; Amherst, 2150; Hanover, 1920; Exeter, 1730; Keene, 1645; Charleston, 1634; Durham, 1128; there are 3 others, containing from 500 to 1000.

Small villages and farm-houses are numerous, and the country is pretty well supplied with good roads, and some elegant bridges, of which the chief is across the Piscataqua, seven miles above Portsmouth. It is 2600 feet long, and cost 68,000 dollars. Agriculture is the chief business of the state, and is welt conducted. The principal products are beef, pork, mutton, poultry, wheat, corn, and other grain; butter, cheese, flax, hemp, hops, vegetables, apples, pears, &c.

The country people generally manufacture their own clothing, and make considerable quantities of tow cloth for exportation. The other manufactures are ashes, maple-sugar, bricks, pottery, and iron ware.

A great part of the surplus produce of this state is carried to Boston, which prevents it from making a great figure in the scale of exports; the amount in 1805, was 608,408 dollars, but it seldom exceeds half a million. All the export trade centres at Portsmouth.

The inhabitants are represented as hardy, robust, and active. Education has been very well attended to. There is a college at Dartmouth, supported by a grant of 80,000 acres of land, and there are a number of academies, schools, and public libraries.

The government is founded upon a bill of rights, declaring that all men are born equally free and independent; and that all government originates from the people: that every man has a right to worship God according to the dictates of his conscience; that all elections ought to be free, and that every inhabitant of the state, having the proper qualifications, has an equal right to elect, and be elected, into office: that there shall be no hereditary rights, and that the press shall be free.

The exercise of the government is vested in a legislature, consisting of a senate and house of representatives; a governor and council to execute the laws; and a judiciary to promote justice between man and man. The senate consists of 13 members, chosen annually by the people; each member must be possessed of a freehold estate of £. 200. The representatives are apportioned according to the population, every town which has 150 rateable polls being entitled to one representative; having 450, they are entitled to two. They are also elected annually, and must be possessed of a freehold of £. 100. The governor is, in like manner, elected annually, and must be possessed of a freehold of £. 500. There are five counsellors, who are chosen annually, who must be possessed of freeholds of £. 300.

The following extract from the constitution ought to be generally known.

“Knowledge and learning, generally diffused through a community, being essential to the preservation of a free government; and spreading the opportunities and advantages of education through the various parts of the country, being highly conducive to promote this end; it shall be the duty of the legislators and 0085 85 magistrates, in all future periods of this government, to cherish the interest of literature and the sciences, and all seminaries and public schools, to encourage private and public institutions, rewards and immunities for the promotion of agriculture, arts, sciences, commerce, trade, manufactures, and natural history of the country; to countenance and inculcate the principles of humanity and general benevolence, public and private charity, industry and economy, honesty and punctuality, sincerity, sobriety, and all social affections and generous sentiments, among the people.”

Is situated between 42° 42′ and 45° north latitude, and 3° 38′ and 5° 27′ east longitude. It is 166 miles long, and its greatest breadth is 93 miles. Its area is about 10,237 square miles, or 6,551,680 acres.

This state is mostly hilly, but not rocky, and towards Canada it is level. An extensive chain of high mountains runs through the middle, nearly south and north, which abounds with elegant scenery. Among these there are beautiful and fertile valleys; and the whole is finely watered with springs. Lake Champlain and its waters divides the state from New York on the west; and the Connecticut river from New Hampshire on the east. There are several rivers towards Canada. No part of the state is on the seaboard.

Iron is found in abundance throughout the state. Lead, copperas, flint, and vitriol have been found, and the west side of the state abounds with marble.

This state, notwithstanding its mountains, contains a great deal of excellent soil.

The climate is similar to New Hampshire.

The territory composing Vermont, was long claimed by the adjoining states of New Hampshire and New York; but the inhabitants wished it to become an independent state in 1777, and the green mountain boys , as they were called, took a very active part in the war of the revolution; but they did not succeed in establishing their claim of independence till 1791, when they 0086 86 were admitted, a 14th state, into the union. The constitution was adopted in 1793, and Vermont now sends two senators and four representatives to congress.

The state is divided into 12 counties, and 245 townships of six miles square. The population, by the census of 1800, was 154,465, being upwards of 15 to the square mile.

Vermont being off the sea-coast, or, as it is sometimes termed, far from a market, there are no large commercial cities; but there are a number of little towns, few of which have more than two thousand inhabitants.

Montpellier is the seat of government, and contains 1500; Bennington 2250, Windsor 2200, Rutland 2130, Newbury 2000, Manchester 2000, Newfane 1700, St. Alban's 1400, Middlebury 1260, Burlington 1100, St. Hero 1000, Craftsbury 1000, Brunswick 1000.

The great business of the state is agriculture, in which the inhabitants are said to have made considerable progress. The soil is generally more productive than that of New Hampshire: the produce is nearly the same. The brows of the mountains answer well for grazing: they raise great stores of beef and pork, with excellent butter and cheese for market; and of late they have made great progress in raising sheep and wool.

The principal manufactures are of the domestic kind, consisting of wool and flax, for family use. Iron is manufactured; and a considerable quantity of pot and pearl ashes.

The only external trade of Vermont is with Canada, and the exports, in 1805, amounted to 169,402 dollars; but the state has a considerable commerce, through the medium of its rivers, with New York, Hartford and Boston.

The inhabitants are represented, by travellers whom I have conversed with, as being hardy, robust, full-featured, and florid in their complexions; as they are mostly all agriculturalists or mechanics, they are independent in their sentiments, and their wants being mostly supplied among themselves, they are not subject to great vicissitudes of fortune, and are generally wealthy in proportion as they are industrious. The system of education partakes of this equality: they have two seminaries for the higher branches of education; but the chief object of the legislature has been to provide for the general diffusion of knowledge, by having common schools in every township: a plan highly praiseworthy, and which every community ought to imitate.

The declaration of rights is nearly the same as that of New Hampshire; but they have an article declaring that no male born in the country, or brought over sea, can be held in bondage after 21, and no female after 18 years of age.

The plan of government is legislative, executive and judiciary. The legislative power is vested in representatives, chosen annually, every free male of 21 years and upwards, who pays taxes, having a vote. The executive is vested in a governor, lieutenant-governor, and council of 12, chosen annually, in like manner: and in order “that the freedom of the commonwealth may be kept inviolate for ever,” a council of censors is chosen once in seven years, whose duty it is to see that the constitution has been preserved inviolate; whether the taxes have been paid, and the public monies properly disposed of; whether the public servants have done their duty, and the laws been duly executed: and they are empowered, if they judge it necessary, to call a convention, to meet two years after their sitting, to revise and amend the constitution.

Having taken my leave of a number of kind friends, with whom I had associated during my stay in Boston, I engaged, a passage by the mail stage for New York, and was called to take my place on the 4th of September, at 2 o'clock in the morning. It is the practice here for the driver to call on the passengers, before setting out, and it is attended with a considerable degree of convenience to them, particularly when they set out early in the morning. The mail stages here are altogether different in construction from the mail coaches in Britain; they are long machines, hung upon leather braces, with three seats across, of a sufficient length to accommodate three persons each, who all sit with their faces towards the horse: the driver sits under cover, without any division between him and the passengers, and there is room for a person to sit on each side of him. The driver, by the post-office regulations, must be a white man, and he has the charge of the mail, which is placed in a box below his seat: there is no guard. The passengers' luggage is put below the seats, or tied on behind the stage; they put nothing on 0088 88 the top, and they take no outside passengers. The stages are slightly built, and the roof supported on pillars; with a curtain, to be let down or folded up, at pleasure. The conveyance is easy, and in summer very agreeable; but it must be excessively cold in winter.

There was an Englisman, a facetious, merry fellow, who lodged at Chappotin's, and took his passage along with me. On taking our places, we found a lady passenger already in the stage, and our company was afterwards augmented by three more, namely, a gentleman from the West Indies, one from Hudson, and a young lady. By the time we got all the passengers and the mail on board , it was 3 o'clock, at which hour we set out from Boston by West Boston bridge; and three miles beyond it we passed through Cambridge, which, at that early hour, I could not see, but I learned that the situation is handsome, and that it contains a university, which is reputed the best literary institution in the United States, It was established in 1638, and has now four large buildings, with accommodations sufficient to contain upwards of 200 students, who attend it annually, and are instructed in all the various branches of human knowledge. Attached to the institution are a philosophical apparatus, a small museum, and a very extensive library. The village of Cambridge contains about 1000 inhabitants. The houses are mostly built of wood. The public buildings are, besides the university, a court-house, an episcopal, and a congregational church.

We travelled 13 miles before we had fair day-light, during which, we passed through Watertown and Waltham, to Weston. It is to be observed, that towns, in the New England states, do not always imply a collection of houses in one place, sufficient to form a village. The whole country is divided into districts, of about six miles square each, and these are called towns, whether they be thickly settled or not. The arrangement of these towns is somewhat assimilated to the parishes in Scotland, having each a separate jurisdiction within itself, which regulates the affairs of religion and of education, and makes provision for the poor. They are also of great importance in the elections, which are conducted throughout the whole state in one day, the people voting in their respective towns, which has a tendency to prevent all bustle and confusion. In travelling through the country, you go from one town to another, and are never out of one; it is therefore, only where the towns contain villages, that I mean to notice them, and, 0089 89 in giving the population, it is to be observed, that it includes the whole of the township, that being the mode in which the census is taken. Weston, which I last noticed, contains about 1200 inhabitants. The country is said to be well cultivated and thickly settled, all the way from Boston.

We could now see one another's faces, and the morning being clear and healthy, we were in high spirits, and disposed for enjoyment. One of our lady passengers was a beautiful country girl, but we learned that she was to travel with us only 28 miles; and our facetious Englishman seemed disposed to improve the time by orations in favour of her eyes, or beautiful twinklers as he called them. They certainly were very pretty, and she had a blooming look, the indication of a blythe heart , according to the Scots proverb. The other lady, we learned, was travelling to Springfield, 80 miles; but she was quite eclipsed by her fair companion, and came in for no share of the Englishman's compliments, while the other remained with us.

From Weston, we passed through a thickly settled and well cultivated country, by Sudbury, Marlborough, and Westborough; and, 45 miles from Boston, we arrived at Worcester.

This is a pretty place, and said to be one of the largest inland towns in the state. It is the capital of a county to which it gives the name, and is situated in a pleasant valley, mostly on one street, which is broad and handsome. The houses are generally of wood, painted white; and are in number about 400. The inhabitants amount to about 2500. The public buildings are a court-house, jail, and 2 congregational churches. They have a pretty extensive inland trade at this place, and the printing business has been long established here by a Mr. Thomas, who is reputed to be the oldest printer in America. It is proposed to open an inland navigation between this place and Providence, distant about 40 miles, and if it should take place, it is supposed that it will be attended with great advantage.

From thence we passed through Leicester and Spencer, and, getting into a hilly country, we continued our course to Brookfield, about 21 miles from Worcester. This is a handsome post-town, situated on Quebang river, 20 miles above its junction with Connecticut river, and in a rich, fertile country, abounding in grain, grass, fruits, and vegetables: it contains nearly 3000 inhabitants, and has four places for public worship, 12 0090 90 The river abounds With fish, and the country round contains great quantities of iron ore.

Seven miles from hence we reached Western, 73 miles from Boston; and here day-light having failed us, my observations on the scenery of the country were terminated for the day.

This was the first inland journey I had made in the northern states, and I was highly delighted with every thing I saw, which formed a perfect contrast to Georgia; and the villages, the fields, the farm-houses, the gardens, and the orchards, far surpassed what is to be generally seen, even in “Scotia, my dear, my native soil.” The inhabitants every where appeared to be industrious, contented, and happy; and I found them always civil and well-bred, and ready to give me every information.

Our Company were lively and cheerful. Our facetious Englishman was quite in high spirits; and jocularly threatened to have me denounced as a spy. I retaliated by threatening to have him denounced as a flatterer of the fair sex, of whom he seemed determined to spare neither age, features, nor complexion; for the beauty having left us, and ceasing to allure, him by her “witching smile,” the other lady, whom I did not think handsome, came in for an extravagant share of compliment. “The night drave on wi' sangs an' clatter.” Our West Indian, who was a Yankee by birth, entertained us with a history of bundling , and we had a vast variety of songs, among which was “Yankee Doodle.”

In prosecuting our journey to Springfield, we stopped at small tavern to change horses, and in the mean time went into the house to warm ourselves, for the evening had become cold. In passing through the parlour we saw a tall, elegant girl, to whom our gentlemen began immediately to make love; but I prosecuted my way to the kitchen fire, where there sat another young girl, and she was beautiful. She was dressed in substantial homespun, but very clean, and was knitting a stocking. Her age might be about 16, and her name was Lucretia. I entered into conversation with her, and her voice was as sweet as her countenance. I was delighted with her appearance. At length in came the other passengers, with a bang ; and our facetious friend, who seemed to have reserved the very quintessence of his talent for compliment for the occasion, began an oration about fine arched eye-brows, aquiline noses, and beautiful twinklers, which probably would have lasted half an hour, had we not been called away 0091 91 to take our seats in the stage. We soon observed that all parties were not pleased, for we heard the Yankee lads grumbling as we passed them; and the Yankee lady passenger observed, with a toss of her head, that she could not see what we all had to make such a fuss about.

At 10 o'clock we reached SPRINGFIELD, said to be a handsome and thriving town, situated on the east side of the Connecticut river, 97 miles from Boston. It contains about 1500 inhabitants, who carry on a considerable inland trade; and have established a respectable manufactory of fire-arms. The public buildings are a court-house and a congregational church.

The Connecticut River, on which Springfield is situated, is one of the most considerable and important in the United States. It rises on the high lands which separate the states of Vermont and New Hampshire from Upper Canada; and pursuing a course a little to the west of south, falls into Long Island Sound; it length, including its windings, being about 300 miles. It forms the boundary line between Vermont and New Hampshire, and passes through the interior of Massachusetts and Connecticut. Its banks are highly cultivated and thickly settled, through its whole course. There is a bar at its outlet, on which there is only 10 feet water, and interiorly it is much obstructed by falls; but it is navigable for sea vessels to Hartford; and there is a great trade on the river above that place; particularly downwards, in flat-bottomed boats. The river abounds with salmon, and other fish. It is in contemplation to improve the navigation by locks at several places, and to connect it with Merrimac river, distant 50 miles, by a canal.

Having crossed this river, the road runs nearly along its west bank, 10 miles, to Suffield, in Connecticut, where we stopped for the night. Here I suspend my account of the journey, to take a short review of the interesting state of Massachusetts.

Is situated between 41° 31′ and 42° 52′ north latitude, and 3° 28′ and 7° east longitude. Its extreme length is 190 miles, and its greatest breadth 100. Its square contents is 8765 miles, being about 5,609,600 acres.

The face of the country is strikingly diversified. The coast on the east side, is indented with bays, and studded with islands, which afford ample harbours for shipping, and support a hardy race of sailors and fishermen. Toward the middle the surface is agreeably uneven, and the west swells out into mountains, some of which are of very considerable height. The state is well watered, abounding in rivers and small lakes. The principal rivers are Connecticut and Merrimac, already noticed.

The principal mineral is iron, of which the state produces a great. quantity. A copper mine has been discovered; and there are considerable quantities of clays and ochres, and slate, marble, and limestone.

The soil is various. Toward the sea-coast it is sandy and barren; in the interior it improves; and toward the western parts, where the country is hilly, it is best adapted for grazing. Wheat crops are not abundant, but it produces Indian corn, rye, barley, and oats. Vegetables and fruit come to great perfection, and are of much value in the state. Flax and some hemp are cultivated; and hops grow luxuriantly.

The climate is very much assimilated to that of Rhode Island. Toward the west, the winters are more cold and severe than on the coast, but the weather is more steady, and the whole is healthy.

Massachusetts was first settled in 1620, by a colony of puritans from Holland, who had been driven there from England, 20 years before. These arrived and settled at Plymouth; and eight years thereafter, another colony arrived from England, and settled at Salem. These colonies soon encreased, and laid the foundation for a powerful state, now one of the first in the union. The revolution originated in Massachusetts, which bore an active share throughout the war. It now sends 17 representatives and two senators to the congress of the United Sates.

Massachusetts proper, is divided into 12 counties and 279 townships. The inhabitants, by last census, amounted to 422,845, being about 48 to the square mile.

This state is well cultivated, and abounds with wealth. Boston is the capital, and the next town in importance is Salem. These, and several others, have been noticed. Of the remainder, the most important is Marblehead , a seaport, containing upwards of 5000 inhabitants. Newburyport is a handsome sea-port, containing nearly 6000 inhabitants, and has several manufactories, and a large shipping trade. Ipswich contains 3000 inhabitants; and Concord , a flourishing town on Concord river, is remarkable as being the place where the provincial congress held their deliberations during the war. Taunton, Northampton, Stockbridge, Pittsfield , and Barnstaple , are all towns of considerable note. The state is intersected in every direction with good roads, and the bridges are numerous and very important.

The greater part of the manufactures have already been enumerated in the account of Boston; but it may be noticed, that, in the interior, there is a vast variety of domestic manufactures ; and several others upon a larger scale, particularly of woollen and cotton.

The exports of the state are provisions, timber, ashes, flax-seed, bees-wax, fish, oil, saddlery, cabinet-work, boots and shoes, nails, tow-cloth, iron utensils, glass, spirits, &c. The imports are British manufactures, tea, wine, silks, spirits, coffee, cotton, &c. Commerce is pursued with an ardent spirit in the state; and it is said that Massachusetts owns more shipping than any other state in the union. The exports, in 1805, amounted to 19,435,657 dollars; but 14,738,606 dollars consisted of foreign produce, and, of the remainder, a considerable portion was that of other states. The state has very extensive fisheries, the product of which is annually of great value.

The state of society is a good deal assimilated to that of Rhode Island, described in the tenth chapter, with this essential difference, that slavery is totally abolished in all its branches. The air is, like that of Britain, “too pure for a slave to live in;” and, with regard to the white people, I think it is “more pure,” for here they are all on an equal footing, having neither nobles, nor priests, nor rents, nor tythes. The religious matters, like the state of Rhode Island, and, indeed, all the other states, are managed by each religious sect in its own way, who are not suffered to interfere with the civil 0094 94 rights of their neighbours, so that the sting is drawn out of the tail of the scorpion of religious discord. No sect is elevated above another; and all have reason to be thankful for the blessings they enjoy, in the protection of equal laws. The literary, humane, and other institutions, are numerous, and exhibit a fair trait in the character of the inhabitants.

On the subject of literature, the constitution declares that “wisdom and knowledge, as well as virtue, diffused generally among the body of the people, being necessary for the preservation of their rights and liberties; and as these depend on spreading the opportunities and advantages of education in the various parts of the country, and among the different orders of the people, it shall be the duty of the legislatures and magistrates, in all future periods of the commonwealth, to cherish the interests of literature and the sciences, and all seminaries of them; especially the university at Cambridge, public schools, and grammar-schools in the towns; to encourage private societies and public institutions, by rewards and immunities for the promotion of agriculture, arts, sciences, commerce, trades, manufactures, and natural history of the country; to countenance and inculcate the principles of humanity and general benevolence, public and private charity, industry and frugality, honesty and punctuality in their dealings; sincerity, good-humour, and all social affections and generous sentiments among the people.”

Dr. More says, “According to the laws of this commonwealth, every town having 50 householders or upwards, is to be provided with one or more schoolmasters, to teach children and youth to read and write, and instruct them in the English language, arithmetic; orthography, and decent behaviour; and where any town has 200 families, there is also to be a grammar-school set up therein, and some discreet person, well instructed in the Latin, Greek, and English languages, procured to keep the same, and be suitably paid by the inhabitants. The penalty for neglect of schools, in towns of 50 families, is £10.; those of 100 families, £20.; and of 150, £30.

The state government is vested in a senate and house of representatives, styled the General Court; a governor, lieutenant-governor, and council. The senators are 40 in number, and are elected annually in districts; and the voters must be possessed of a freehold estate of £3. or any estate of the value of £60. The representatives are elected annually, in townships: every corporate town containing 0095 95 150 rateable polls elect 1, those containing 375 elect 2, those containing 600 elect 3, and so on, making, 225 the number for every additional representative. The electors must be possessed of the same property as for senators. The governor is styled his excellency , and must be possessed of a freehold of £1000. He is elected annually by those qualified to vote for senators and representatives. The lieutenant-governor is styled his honour , and must have the same qualifications, and be elected in the same manner as the governor. The council consists of nine persons, chosen from the senators by joint ballot of the senators and representatives.

The District Of Maine is politically connected with Massachusetts, and is of great extent, being about 250 miles long by 192 broad, and contains an area of 34,000 square miles, or 21,760,000 acres.

The first settlement took place about the year 1630; and the inhabitants, who have been greatly augmented by emigration from the adjoining states, amounted, by the last census, to 151,719, being less than 4 to the square mile; but they are rapidly increasing.

There are a number of considerable towns on the coast, of which the chief is Portland, which contains nearly 4000 inhabitants, and has a great and increasing trade. York is the second in importance, and is a place of considerable business. Hallowell, Wiscasset , and Machias are considerable places, to say nothing of Passamaquoddy , a sort of Land's End in Cornwall , or Johnny Groat's House , at the very extremity of the Union, and which sends out a considerable number of small vessels.

The land on the sea-coast is stony and barren; but there are tracts of good land in the interior of the country, which produce grain and fruits, and the country is remarkably well calculated for grazing.

The principal trade consists in lumber and fish, of which the inhabitants carry great quantities to the sea-ports of America, and to the West Indies. The manufactures are principally of the domestic kind.

The state of society is nearly the same as in Massachusetts.

The face of the country is hilly, but not mountainous; and the coast is completely indented with bays and rivers. The winters are long and severe, with clear settled weather: the summers are short, but very agreeable: of spring there is hardly any; but the autumns are generally clear and healthy.

September 5. We resumed our journey this morning at 3 o'clock, and travelled towards Hartford, keeping near the banks of the river. The morning was serene and clear, but a little cold. We could see nothing of the country at that early hour; but we were informed that it was handsome, and well improved. The road is level and good. Ten miles from Suffield, we passed through Windsor , a pleasant town, situated on Windsor Ferry River, which we passed by a wooden bridge. We now had day-light, and an agreeable journey for six miles farther, to Hartford, which we reached at 7 o'clock, to breakfast.

Hartford is a handsome city, the capital of Connecticut, and is, alternately with Newhaven, the seat of legislation for the state. It is situated on Connecticut River, at the head of sloop navigation, 50 miles above Long Island Sound. It is regularly laid out, the streets crossing one another at right angles; but they are not paved, and, when I saw them, they were very muddy. The city consists of about 400 houses, and contains between 3 and 4000 inhabitants. * The public buildings are the State-House, an elegant edifice, two congregational churches, and one episcopal church. The citizens carry on an active commerce, in all the products of the state, to the southern states and the West Indies; and they have a large share of country trade. Considerable manufactures are carried on with spirit, and are increasing. The markets are well supplied with wholesome provisions, which are sold at reasonable rates.

On leaving the city, we got an addition to our company, of some students going to Newhaven, and some young ladies; and we had a great deal of entertainment from the remarks of our facetious Englishman, who began by questioning the students, why the citizens of Hartford had not paved the streets? They gave some account of it, which I do not recollect; but it was not satisfactory; and one of our company attempted to solve the difficulty, by alleging that it was probably, with a view of encouraging the 0097 97 growth of the young women. He had remarked, that the young ladies of Hartford were uncommonly tall; and as sap and soil were very necessary to the growth of vegetable substances, and the citizens of Hartford were a philosophical people, and “full of notions,” it was likely they had tried the experiment with the animal creation, and had succeeded. The students were highly diverted, and laughed heartily at what they called his odd “notion.” The ladies in the stage were too young to attract the attention of our friend; but many a remark did he make on those we passed, who, “to conceal nothing,” as Goldsmith says, “were certainly very handsome.” The weather was delightful, and the view of the country was highly gratifying. The fields were well cultivated, abounding with fruits of all sorts; and we purchased from a countryman, en passant , a whole basket full of peaches for a mere trifle, which kept us well supplied in fruit the whole way to Newhaven.

We took, as we were informed, a new road; and passing several villages of inferior note, we reached Wallingford, 26 miles from Hartford, about 12 o'clock. Here we had a delightful view, and were informed that this district was celebrated for raising onions, and that a company of young girls had cultivated that root so successfully, in a neighbouring town, that they had built a church with the proceeds. This account of the industry of the young women was highly gratifying, and we were really delighted with their blooming countenances, and the cleanly, substantial dress which they wore. It was plain and simple, but so much the better;

For loveliness Needs not the foreign aid of ornament, But is, when unadorn'd, adorn'd the most.

In our way towards Newhaven, we passed through a very elegant country, where we had a number of fine views; and we reached the great, enlightened city of Newhaven, at 2 o'clock. Here we stopped for dinner, and we had some little time to take a view of the town.

Newhaven is a handsome city. The surrounding scenery is very fine, and the situation pleasant, and favourable for commerce. It is built on a considerable bay, on Long Island Sound, and covers part of a pretty extensive plain, having a river on each side of it. The streets cross one another at right angles, and there is a square in the middle, round which are the public buildings, which 13 0098 98 have a very handsome appearance. They are the colleges, State-House, three congregational, and one episcopal church. I regretted that my time did not permit me to see the College, which is esteemed one of the best seminaries in the United States, and, by the citizens of Newhaven, is considered the very best. The city contains nearly 6000 inhabitants, who carry on a very active trade with New York and the West Indies; and they have established considerable manufactures, which are said to be in a thriving state.

We took our departure from Newhaven about 4 o'clock, and travelling thirteen miles through a pretty good tract of country, along the Sound, we reached Milford , a considerable town, having several churches, and from thence, through a country nearly similar, a few miles, we passed the Housatonic River , by a ferry. This river rises about the borders of Massachusetts, and running a south-east course, the whole breadth of the state of Connecticut, falls into the Sound a little below where we crossed it. It is navigable to Derby, twelve miles up, and above that is very important for mills and machinery; the country on its banks is said to be very romantic. Four miles from this river we passed Stratford , a pleasant town, and of considerable extent; and now day-light failed us, and terminated my observations.

We continued our course through Fairfield and Norwalk , said to be considerable and pleasant towns; and at 12 o'clock reached Stamford , 44 miles from Newhaven, where we stopped for the night. In our way, we passed a number of rivers of inferior note, and part of the country appeared to be rough, and the road very bad; but we were informed that a new line of turnpike road was in forwardness, and would soon be finished.

Is situated between 41° and 42° north latitude, and 3° 20′ and 5 east longitude. Its greatest length is 83 miles, and its greatest breadth 72. Its area is 4400 square miles, or 2,816,000 acres.

The face of the country is agreeably uneven. To the south the coast extends along the Sound the whole length of the state, and has many fine inlets, which are highly advantageous to commerce. 0099 99 Towards the north-west the country swells out into high, broken, hilly lands, but there are no mountains. This hilly country is said to be very romantic. The state is remarkably well watered, abounding in small streams. The principal rivers are Connecticut and Housatonic, already mentioned, and the Thames. This last river is formed at Norwich of two branches, called Shetucket and Little rivers; and thence runs a due south course, 14 miles, to the sound. It has a fine harbour at New London, and is navigable for small vessels to Norwich.

Iron ore is found in the state in great abundance, and lead, copper, and zinc have also been discovered, though in no great quantities. Pit-coal has been found, but, I believe, not in sufficient quantity to induce the inhabitants to dig for it. There are a number of mineral springs in the state; the most important is in Lichfield county, which is highly impregnated with carbonic acid gas, and sulphurated hydrogen gas; and is said to be very useful in curing various diseases, particularly dyspepsia, rheumatism, and those of the cutaneous kind.

The soil is various, some parts being poor and sandy, and some very fertile; generally speaking, there is a great deal of good land, and the state is remarkably well calculated for grazing.

The climate is subject to great and sudden changes, passing to the extremes of heat and cold; but it is very healthy, and the state abounds with remarkable instances of longevity.

The first settlement was made in the year 1633, by some Dutch and English traders with the Indians. In 1662, a charter was granted by Charles II. which still serves as the basis of the state government; and which, from the ignorance of the British government, at that time, of the geography of the country, has involved some singular disputes about land titles. Connecticut bore an active share in the war for independence; and now forms a very important state in the union, sending two senators and seven representatives to congress.

The state is divided into eight counties and 107 townships. The population, in 1800, was 251,002, including 951 slaves, being about 57 to a square mile.

The country is highly improved, and abounds with handsome towns, villages, and farm-houses. There are five incorporated cities, viz, Hartford, Newhaven, New London, Norwich and Middletown. The two first have been noticed. New London is handsomely 0100 100 situated on the Thames, and has an excellent harbour, and extensive trade. It contains upwards of 3000 inhabitants, and has a bank, and three houses for public worship. Norwich is on the same river, at the head of navigation, and has numerous manufactures and an extensive trade. It contains nearly 3000 inhabitants, and has a court-house, a bank, an insurance company, an academy, and three places for public worship. Middletown , situated on Connecticut river, 15 miles below Hartford, contains about 2000 inhabitants, and carries on a considerable trade. There is a bank, an insurance company, a court-house and two places for public worship in the city. Lichfield is a fine town, containing upwards of 4000 people. It is beautifully situated in an elevated part of the state, and has a court-house, meeting-house, and academy. Wethersfield is the oldest town in the state, and is remarkable for the culture of onions. The other villages are numerous, the whole state being studded with them, containing from 500 to 1500 or 2000 inhabitants; among others may be mentioned Danbury, Windham, Haddam , and Tolland. The houses are generally built of wood, on a handsome plan, and are painted white; which gives the country an air of great cleanliness and neatness. This enterprising little state first set the example of making turnpike roads in New England, and these and other good roads are so abundant, that travelling is facilitated in all directions. There are a number of bridges in the state, some of them constructed at great expence, which are of great utility.

The agriculture of the state is in a condition which speaks volumes in praise of equal laws. There is no feudal system, and no law of primogeniture; hence there are no overgrown estates on the one hand, and few of those employed in agriculture are depressed by poverty on the other. The farms are generally from 50 to 5000 acres, cultivated by a hardy industrious race, whose labour is rewarded by the blessings of heaven in “peace, and health, and sweet content.” But it is said, that all the sons of Connecticut are not thus wise. There is a superabundance of the learned professions, particularly in the law department, who keep the state embroiled in litigation. “God made man upright, but they have sought out many inventions.”—The produce of the state is wheat, rye, Indian corn, oats, barley, buck-wheat, flax, a large quantity, and some hemp, with a great variety of vegetables, and fruit. The soil is well adapted to grazing, and vast quantities of 0101 101 cheese and butter are made: much pork is cured: cyder is also made in great plenty and perfection.

The farmers of Connecticut, and their families, are generally dressed in cloth of their own manufacture, which is substantial and good; and there are considerable and very important manufactures, on a larger scale, throughout the state, viz. woollens, linens, cottons, leather of every description, hats, stockings, paper, wire, bells, soap, candles, oil, clocks and watches, earthen and stone ware, chaises, harness, &c.

The state has a very considerable coasting and foreign trade. The exports, in 1805, amounted to 1,448,729 dollars. They are principally to the West India islands, consisting of live stock, timber, grain, fruit, fish, and provisions. The imports consist of manufactured piece goods of the finer kinds, wines, and groceries.

The population of Connecticut consists of farmers, mechanics, manufacturers, ministers of religion, instructors of youth, doctors of medicine, and lawyers. There are no idle people to be seen, although it is said that too many are engaged in the learned professions; and Connecticut sends out a full proportion of luminaries annually, to enlighten other states. Education is upon an excellent footing, and the school fund is more ample than that of any other state. The college at Newhaven, which is named Yale College , has been already noticed, and academies have been established at Greenfield, Plainfield, Canterbury, Norwich, Windham, and Pomfret. The law directs that a grammar school shall be kept in every county town throughout the state; but the great, popular, and permanent advantage on this branch, arises from the establishment of shools in every township, being an arrangement similar to the parish schools of Scotland, and which produced similar effects—a general diffusion of knowledge, “steady habits,” and sobriety of manners. In religion, the form of church government is generally congregational or presbyterian, but every other form may be freely exercised. The form of government is derived from the ancient charter; by which the legislative authority is vested in a governor, deputy governor, twelve assistants or counsellors, and the representatives of the people, styled the General Assembly. They are divided into two branches, of which the governor, deputy governor, and assistants form one, and the representatives the other: and no law can pass without the concurrence of both. The governor and assistants are chosen annually, 0102 102 and the representatives, who must not exceed two for each town, are chosen twice each year. The suffrage is universal, every freeman who is of age having a vote, without regard to property.

September 6. This morning, at 3 o'clock, we took our seats in the stage. I was diverted by a dialogue between the two drivers, in which the word guess occured so frequently, that I could hardly hear any thing else. “I guess this string's not long enough.” “O yes, I guess it is.” “O yes, I guess I'll make it do.” “There,—I guess you've fixed it.” “Yes, I guess you guess right.” Leaving Stanford we passed several creeks. The morning was raw and foggy. At the dawn of day we reached a considerable rising ground, called Horseneck , and we alighted, and walked up the hill, by a winding road. Here we were told a singular anecdote of Major Putnam. A part of the British army were encamped not far from this hill, and the major went to the top of it, in a fog, to reconnoitre; just as he reached the top, the fog cleared away, and he found himself close by a corps of British cavalry, who immediately pursued him. He clapped spurs to his horse, and; not having time to keep the road, galloped right down the hill, and, strange to tell! reached the plain unhurt; and thus eluded his pursuers. A few miles from thence, we passed Byram river, and entered the state of New York.

The first township we came to in this state was Rye, containing about 1000 inhabitants. The soil appeared pretty good, but the face of the country is rough and stony. We continued our course through East and West Chester, both considerable townships; near the last is a manufacture of earthenware, said to be in a thriving state. The soil in this district seems to be poor and sandy; but we were informed it was well calculated for sheep and cattle, the flocks of which were encreasing.

Nine miles from New York, we passed into York Island, by a wooden bridge, at Harlem; and, continuing our course through the middle of the island, which abounds with numerous villas and pleasure-grounds, generally the property of the merchants of New York, we reached the city at ten o'clock. I was highly gratified by my tour to the New England states.

I continued in New York, transacting various mercantile business, until the 25th of September; during which time I again called on Thomas Paine, in company with his friend, formerly mentioned. Paine was still at the house of Mrs. Palmer, but his leg had got much better, and he was in good spirits. News had arrived that morning that a peace had been concluded between France and England; but Paine said he did not believe it, and again affirmed, that while the present form of government lasted in England, there would be no peace: the government was committed in a war system, and would prosecute it as long as they could command the means. He then turned up a newspaper, which had recently been established at New York, and, after reading several paragraphs, he observed that he could not understand what the editor was driving at. He pretended to be a great friend of Britain, and yet he was constantly writing against peace, and the best interests of the country; and in place of being guided by the plain dictates of common sense, he aimed at flowery embellished language, and glided away into the airy regions of speculative nonsense, more like a madman than the editor of a newspaper. After a good deal of general conversation, we took our leave.

A few days after, his friend handed me a piece in MS., intended for the newspapers, and requested me to copy it, and keep the original; and as Paine has made a great noise in the world, I shall here insert it, as a relic of an extraordinary political character, and as a very good specimen of the acuteness of his mind, and his turn for wit, at the advanced age of 70.

“ For the Citizen.

“It must be an inconsolable affliction to poor Mr.—'s friends. if he has any, to hear that his insanity increases beyond all hopes of recovery. His case is truly pitiable: he works hard at the trade of mischief-making; but he is not a good hand at it, for the case is that the more he labours the more he is laughed at, and his malady, increases with every laugh.

“In his paper of Thursday, September 18th, the spirit of prophecy seizes him, and he leaps from the earth, gets astride of a cloud, and predicts universal darkness to the inhabitants of this lower world.

“Speaking of the rumours of peace between France and England, he says, ‘we will not believe it till we see it gazetted (meaning 0104 104 in the London Gazette,) and then,’ says he, ‘we will aver that the sun which dawns upon that event will be the darkest that ever rose since the transgression of our first parents brought sin into the world,’ This is the first time we ever heard of the sun shining darkness. But darkness or light, sense or nonsense, sunshine or moonshine, are all alike to a lunatic.—He then goes on. ‘In a continuance,’ says he, ‘of war only, can Britain look for salvation. That star once extinguished, all will be darkness and eternal night over the face of the creation.’—The devil it will! And pray Mr.—, will the moon shine darkness too? and will all the stars twinkle darkness? If that should be the case, you had better sell your press, and set up tallow-chandler: there will be more demand for candles than for newspapers when those dark days come.

“But, as you are a man that writes for a livelihood, and I suppose you find it hard work to rub on, I would advise you, as a friend, not to lay out all your cash upon candle-making; for my opinion is, that whether England make peace or not, or whether she is conquered or not conquered, the sun will rise as glorious and shine as bright on that day as if no such trifling things had happened.”

It appeared in the sequel that Paine was correct in his opinion, and the editor was gratified in his wish—there was no peace.

This interesting state is situated between 40° 33′ and 45° north latitude, and 3° 43′ east, and 2°43′ west longitude; its extreme length, from east to west, being 340, and extreme breadth, from north to south, 317 miles; but it is very irregular. The square contents amount to about 52,125 square miles, or 33,360,000 acres; being 18,000 square miles larger than Scotland.

There is a vast variety in the face of the country. Long Island and Staten Island are situated at its southern extremity, and are interesting. The state is bounded by Connecticut on the east, New Jersey on the west, extending in breadth to the highlands, with an agreeably uneven surface. From the highlands, about 50 miles above New York, the state is hilly, in many places mountainous; and 0105 105 the hills continue to the extremity of the state northward, and to Utica westward: from thence to its western extremity, nearly 300 miles, there is a most elegant country, rich and well watered, having spurs of the Allegany mountains on the one side, and on the other the lakes Ontario and Erie, two of the finest sheets of water in the world. The lakes are so numerous that the bare mention of the names of the most important must suffice in this place. Besides the large lakes, there are Lake Champlain, Lake George, Oneida, Onondago, Skeneateless, Owasca, Cayuga, Seneca, Canandagua, and Chataughque. The principal rivers are the Hudson , the Mohawk , the Oneida , and the Genesee. The Hudson rises in the mountains, above the 44th degree of north latitude, pursues a south course about 250 miles, and forms a junction with the East River at New York. This river is navigable for sea vessels through the mountains to Albany and Troy; and for smaller vessels a considerable way above Troy: the tide flows 165 miles up this river. The Mohawk rises near Oneida Lake, and running a south-east course upwards of 100 miles, falls into the Hudson 8 miles above Albany: the navigation of this river is obstructed by the Cohoes falls, near its outlet, and the little falls about 70 miles above that; but goods and produce are carried by land between Albany and Skenectady, 15 miles; and there being a canal round the little falls, the navigation is complete to the portage near its source, where it communicates by another canal with Wood Creek, and from thence with Lake Ontario. Oneida River has its source in Oneida Lake, from whence it runs about 40 miles to Lake Ontario. It is navigable by boats to the falls, where there is a portage, from whence it is again navigable to the lake, and thence through Wood Creek and the portage, to the Mohawk River. This river is of great importance, as it forms part of the chain of communication between the Hudson and the lakes; and, through the medium of Seneca River, it may, in process of time, form also an important communication between Lake Ontario and the smaller, but very important lakes, in the interior of the country. Genesee River rises in the state of Pennsylvania, and running a northern course through the Genesee country nearly 100 miles, falls into Lake Ontario. The navigation of this river is obstructed by falls; but it abounds with mill-seats, and has rich fertile banks. The great River St. Lawrence bounds the state on the north, to the east of Lake Ontario, and receives several important streams in that district: and on the west is the Niagara River , the communication 14 0106 106 between Lake Erie and Lake Ontario, on which are the Falls of Niagara, one of the greatest wonders in the world. This river is navigable to within 9 miles of the falls; and again, from 2 miles above the falls, to Lake Erie. The portage round the falls is 10 miles; and, were a canal cut, it would complete the navigation between the lakes, and open an inland navigation of greater extent than is to be found in the world. The head waters of the Allegany, Susquehan na, and Delaware Rivers, are in the southern part of this state.

The state abounds with iron ore and lead; copper and zinc have been found in various places. Silver has been found, but in no great quantity. Marble abounds, and is of an excellent quality. Freestone and slate are in plenty. Plaster of Paris is found in great variety, and is used with good effect as manure. Isinglass and sulphur are common in many places: and coal has also been found, but in no great quantity.—The salt-springs at Onandago are very strong, and produce an immense quantity of that useful article. There are many sulphur-springs, and several air-springs, which last are probably the gas arising from the combustion of pit coal: there is a medicinal spring at Lebanon, which affords a pleasant bath, at the temperature of 72°, and is much frequented; but the most remarkable springs in this state, or indeed in the United States, are those of Ballston and Saratoga. These waters are highly medicinal, and are of great efficacy in dyspepsia and other complaints; and are much frequented in the summer season.

The soil, in such an extent of country, must be various. The southern and eastern part is a dry gravel, mixed with loam, and is not very rich; the mountainous part is pretty well adapted for grazing, and there are rich valleys on the rivers. The whole of the northern and western part is rich and fertile, except a small portion bordering on the state of Pennsylvania, which, however, is interspersed with fertile lands.

The climate is also various. In that part which lies to the south of the highlands, it is remarkably changeable; it experiences all the vicissitudes of heat and cold, and sometimes a change of 30 degrees in the course of 24 hours. Among the mountains, and along Lake Champlain, towards Canada, the winters are long and severe, and the summers are sometimes very sultry and hot. In the western district, the climate is more temperate, and the winters are subject to a good deal of rain; but the whole country is healthy, the neighbourhood of ponds and undrained morasses excepted. 0107 107 The winter commences about Christmas, and ends with February; but March and April are sometimes cold months.

Captain Hudson, a Dutch navigator, discovered Hudson's River, in the year 1609, and about the year 1615, the Dutch took formal possession of the country, and formed a settlement at the mouth of Hudson's River, called New Amsterdam, and another 160 miles up the river, called Fort Orange. In 1664, Charles II. made a grant of the country to his brother, the duke of York, and an army of 3000 men was sent to take possession of it, which they easily accomplished, and changed the name of New Amsterdam to New York , and Fort Orange to Albany. In 1774, New York took an active part in the revolutionary war, and sent four delegates to the general congress. The state constitution was framed in 1777, and revised, as it now stands, in 1801. The state sends two senators and 17 representatives to congress.

The state is divided into 43 counties, and about 300 townships. The population in 1800 was 586,203, including 20,613 slaves; being about 11 to the square mile.

This state has progressed rapidly in population, wealth, and improvements. There are four incorporated cities, of which New York, already noticed, is the chief. The others are Albany, Hudson , and Skenectady.

Albany is the seat of government, and contained, by the census of 1800, about 7000 inhabitants; but they have since much increased. It is a place of considerable trade, and fast rising into importance.

Hudson is situated at the head of ship navigation, and, though only laid out in 1784, such has been the rapidity of its growth, that it contained, by the census of 1800, nearly 3000 inhabitants. They have here a very considerable trade, and elegant packets to and from New York.

Skenectady is a handsome, well-built city, on the Mohawk river, 16 miles from Albany, and, by the census of 1800, contained 5289 inhabitants. It is a place of considerable trade, and has a bank, college, and three places for public worship.

The other most important towns and villages are Newburg, Poughkeepsie, Troy, Lansingburgh , and Waterford , on the Hudson; Utica, Herkimer , and Rome , on the Mohawk; and Skeneateless, Geneva, Canandagua , and Buffalo , to the westward. The houses are generally substantially built, and are a good deal similar to 0108 108 those in the New England states. The roads, bridges, and canals are numerous, and of great importance.

The agriculture of the state is far advanced. The staple commodity is flour, of which a vast quantity is made annually for exportation; and the state raises all the other kinds of produce mentioned in the account of the New England states.

The manufactures of the state are considerable, and increasing; particularly the articles of glass, ashes, iron-ware of various descriptions, leather of all kinds, hats, carriages, paper and printing, pottery ware, umbrellas, mathematical and musical instruments. The commerce of the state is exceedingly extended, and has been alluded to in the account of New York; besides which, there is a great commerce on the lakes and the St. Lawrence, with Canada.

The society in this state is very much mixed. The city and southern part of the state, and along the Hudson and Mohawk rivers, are mostly of Dutch, Scottish, and Irish extraction. To the west, the majority are New Englanders; but the whole harmonise and unite in this free country, and will soon form one mass of republicans. Education was, for a time, considerably neglected; but it is now well attended to, considerable funds being appropriated to the support of it. There are several colleges in the state, and many academies: a taste for knowledge is increasing, and with it will increase the good sense of the community, and every useful art.

The government of the state is vested in a governor, lieutenant-governor, senate, and house of representatives. The governor and lieutenant-governor are elected for three years; the senators for four; and the assembly-men are chosen annually. The necessary qualifications for the electors, are six months residence in the state previous to the election; the possession of a freehold of £20 value, or to have rented a tenement of the value of 40 shillings yearly; and to have been rated on the polls, and actually paid taxes to the state.

The funds of this state are reported to be in a most flourishing situation; and such is the increase in wealth and population, that it is considered one of the most important states in the union.

Wednesday, September 34. Having finished my business in New York, I took leave of my friends, and crossed Hudson's river, at 8 o'clock in the morning. The day was dull and cloudy, so that I could see but little; but being quite in the humour for making inquiries regarding this extensive country, I took my place on the fore-seat beside the driver. It surprised me to observe how well informed this class of people are in America. In my journey through the New England states, I was highly gratified by the prompt and accurate answers which they made to my questions; and I resolved to follow the same plan of obtaining information throughout my tour.

We took our departure at 9 o'clock, from a little town called Jersey, which is the landing-place from New York, and travelled a few miles through a country rather stony and sandy, to Bergen , a small village, having a church, and said to be inhabited mostly by Dutch people. A little further on, we reached Hackensack river, which we passed by a toll-bridge, and immediately entered into a very extensive swamp, through which the road is cut at a considerable expence. This swamp is said to be 50 miles long, and about four broad, and abounds with grass of a very strong kind, but it must be difficult to gather it. We saw, however, that it had been all cut during the summer. We were much molested with musquetoes of a very large size, during our passage through it; soon after which we passed the Passaic river, and arrived at Newark, nine miles from New York.

Hackensack river rises in New York state, and running a southeast course, falls into Newark bay, a little below where we crossed it. It is navigable 15 miles up the country. Passaic river rises in the interior of the country, and running upwards of 50 miles, by a very winding course, falls into Newark bay. It is navigable about 10 miles; and, about 14 miles from its outlet, there are falls on it of 70 feet perpendicular, which form one of the greatest curiosities in the state, and constitute a fine situation for mill-seats, at which a cotton manufactory has been recently established.

Newark is a beautiful village, regularly laid out in broad streets, on a fine plain, and contains nearly 2000 inhabitants. The public buildings are two places for public worship, a court-house, and academy. Considerable manufactures are carried on here, particularly of leather. The inhabitants have likewise a pretty extensive inland trade; and have a bank to facilitate their commercial operations. The country is well cultivated in the neighbourhood, and Newark is remarkable for the goodness of its cyder, of which a large quantity is made annually.

Six miles beyond Newark is Elizabethtown, containing two churches and an academy. It is a pretty little place, and the land in its neighbourhood is fertile, and well cultivated.

Ten miles from thence, through a pretty fertile country, we reached Woodbridge , a small village, where we stopped for dinner, at 1 o'clock. The day was rainy and disagreeable, so that there was no great pleasure in viewing the country; and as to amusement in the stage, I could get none, for there was a surly-looking man from Charleston, who engrossed all the conversation, and his whole talk was about cotton, and he spoke as if nobody knew any thing of the matter but himself.

At half-past three o'clock, we reached Brunswick, 36 miles from New York, where we crossed the Rariton River, by a wooden bridge. This is one of the most considerable rivers in New Jersey. It rises about 30 miles above this, and, running a southeast course, falls into Rariton Bay at Amboy. It is navigable to this place, by which means a great trade is carried on with New York.

Brunswick is an incorporated city, containing about 3000 inhabitants. The greater part of it is low, and it is not very handsome, but seems to be improving. It was originally settled mostly by Dutch people, and there are three Dutch churches. The other public buildings, worthy of notice, are the Court-House and Academy; which last is said to be a very thriving seminary. The lands in the neighbourhood appear rough and rocky; but we were informed that they raised pretty good crops, particularly of grass, which had, throughout the whole of this district, flourished very much of late, in consequence of the application of plaster of Paris.

The afternoon continued wet, and the road was very bad, through a level country, about 14 miles, when we passed a small place called Kingston ; from whence the road is much improved, and proceeds through a fine country, and by an easy ascent, about 0111 111 three miles to Princeton , which we reached a little after dark. We should have stopped here for the night; but there was a Commencement ball at the stage-house, and we were informed that we must move on to Trenton, albeit the night was wet and dark, and we were sufficiently tired. I was mortified at this decision, for I wished very much to see the ball.

During the short time we stopped, I went into the ball-room, where the dance was going on, and almost the first object that saluted my eyes, was Miss Gibbons, a dashing belle from Savannah. I thought myself at home. But I can't say I was so much pleased with the appearance of the “fair ones,” as I was in Yankee-land. There was a great number of “elegant forms,” and “handsome faces;” but the dress was, generally speaking, showy, not neat— the indication of a bad taste; and the most of them had large, three inch diameter sort of rings in their ears, called by some of the students, not inaptly, “Cupid's chariot wheels.” Nor did the dancing please me. The music was a French cotillion, to which they “ sprawled and sprauchled ,” and le tout ensemble was the very contrast to those soul-inspiring reels and strathspeys which animate our Scots girls, and set them in motion, “their feet as pat to the music as its echo.” I entered into conversation with some of the students and young ladies who were by-standers, who answered my enquiries with much affability; and I left the room with regret when I was called to take my passage in the stage.

Of the town of Princeton I could, of course, see nothing at that late hour, but I learned that it is handsomely situated on elevated ground, from whence there is a very fine view, through a well cultivated adjoining country. The number of dwelling-houses is about 100, and the college is reputed one of the best seminaries in the United States.

Having got a number of the students as passengers, the stage was crowded; and, on our way to Trenton, it broke down by one of the braces giving way. It is customary in Britain to provide against an accident of this kind, by having an iron chain to supply the place of the brace; and the contrivance being a very simple one, I thought it would have been adopted here; but to my surprise there was no chain, and the defect was supplied by breaking down an honest man's fence, and thrusting a rail under the carriage, while the passengers stood almost up to the ancles in the mud, holding it up. Being fixed in this way, we jolted on to Trenton, which we reached near 12 o'clock at night.

Trenton is the capital of New Jersey, and is situated on the Delaware river, 30 miles from Philadelphia, and 66 from New York. It is a handsome little town, containing about 200 houses. The public buildings are the state-house, a court-house, an episcopal church, a presbyterian church, a quaker meeting-house, and methodist meeting-house.

Is situated between 39° and 41° 20′ north latitude, and 1° 30′ and 3° 5′ east longitude. Its length is 145 miles, and its breadth 60. It contains 7920 square miles, being 5,068,800 acres.

The state extends along the sea-coast upwards of 100 miles, which, with the exception of the highlands of Never Sink, is low and sandy; but it is more elevated and more diversified towards the interior. The northern part swells out into high lands, and, towards the extremity of the state, there are considerable mountains. The principal rivers have been already noticed, and there are no other of any note, though small streams are numerous, and supply the state abundantly with mill-seats.

The state abounds with minerals; producing iron, lead, copper, gypsum, coal, and slate; and there are several useful clays and ochres.

About one-fourth part of the state is sandy and barren; there are in the southern parts extensive pine barrens, and cedar swamps. Large tracts of salt meadow run along Delaware bay, and the rivers which fall into the Atlantic. Along the rivers and small streams in the interior of the state there is much good land; and the hilly district abounds with fertile valleys.

The climate is strikingly different in the different sections of the state. In the northern part there is clear settled weather, and the winters are excessively cold, but the whole is very healthy: in the southern part, particularly towards the extremity, the climate approaches to that of the southern states, and is subject to very sudden changes.

New Jersey was first settled by the Dutch, in 1618; but falling into the hands of the English, it was granted, along with New York, by Charles II., to his brother, the Duke of York. It was among 0113 113 the first states that acceded to the union, and sent five delegates to congress, in 1774. It bore a very active part in the contest for independence, and was long the theatre of war in which it suffered great losses and privations. It now sends two senators and six representatives to the congress of the United States.

The state is divided into 13 counties and 100 townships, and contains 211,149 inhabitants, including 12,422 slaves; being upwards of 26 persons to the square mile.

The principal towns have been already mentioned, besides which there are Burlington and Bordentown , two considerable places on the Delaware, and Salem and Patterson , in the interior; which last is a manufacturing town, at the falls of Passaic, already noticed, and is rising fast into importance. The country is pretty well improved by thriving farms, and the roads and bridges are numerous. I did not hear of any canals, but I learned there was one projected across the country from Brunswick to Trenton, which, if carried into effect, will certainly be a great improvement, as it will complete the inland navigation between New York and Philadelphia.

New Jersey is settled with frugal industrious farmers. The produce of the state is wheat, rye, barley, oats, Indian corn, potatoes, and other vegetables, and a vast quantity of fruit; and butter and cheese are made in great quantites, for the supply of the New York and Philadelphia markets.

The inhabitants of New Jersey, except in the towns, make the greater part of their clothing, and there are several manufactories of cottons and woollens, on a large scale. Of iron, the manufactures are very extensive, and the quantity is considerable of leather, glass, and paper. The state has hardly any foreign commerce, nearly the whole being carried on through the medium of New York and Philadelphia. The principal sea-port is Amboy, but the direct exports, annually, amount to only a few thousand dollars. The state is supplied with foreign goods through the large cities already mentioned.

The general dissemination of knowledge through the state has not been attended to according to its importance. There are numerous seminaries for the higher branches of literature; but the state seems defective in common schools. I keep the parish schools in Scotland constantly in my mind, and I regret when the system for the instruction of the mass of the people does not come up to that standard. 15

The government of this state is vested in a governor, legislative council, and general assembly. The council consists of one member, and the assembly of three members, from each county, chosen annually by the people. The governor is chosen annually by the council and assembly. The qualification for a voter is £. 50. The state is prospering, and increasing in population and wealth.

Thursday, September 25th, we set out from Trenton, at 6 o'clock in the morning, and crossed the river Delaware by Trenton bridge. This bridge was finished in February last, and being one of the most elegant in the United States, and different in construction from any I have seen before, it merits a particular description. It consists of five arches of 194 feet span each, built of white pine, and supported on strong stone piers; the whole length is 970 feet; the breadth 36. The arches are elevated over had by substantial rafters, and the platform, or carriage-way, is suspended by these arches, and forms a plane the whole length of the bridge. Above the top of the arches the roof is covered in, so as to secure the whole from the weather; and the carriage-way is divided into two sections, each of which is apropriated to travellers in one direction. At the entrance, passengers are directed to take the road on the right hand. Upon the whole, this is a very elegant piece of architecture. It was commenced in 1804, and is the plan of a mechanic of the name of Burr.

The Delaware is a noble river. Its head waters are in New York state, from whence it pursues a south-east course, forming the boundary between that state and Pennsylvania, about 60 miles, and thence forms the boundary between Pennsylvania and New Jersey, upwards of 100 more to this place, where there are falls, but of no great height. From hence it increases in breadth, during a course of 36 miles, to Philadelphia, where it is a mile broad. As it proceeds downwards it gradually increases, and, 40 miles below Philadelphia, at Newcastle, it is two miles broad, thence it spreads out into a spacious bay, and falls into the Atlantic 0115 115 ocean 70 miles below Newcastle, its outlet being 25 miles wide. It is navigable for vessels of any burden to Philadelphia; for sloops and other small craft to Trenton, where it is obstructed by the falls; but above them it is navigable for boats upwards of 100 miles.

Immediately after passing this river we were in the state of Pennsylvania; and among the first houses that attracted my notice was Morrisville, the seat of general Moreau. It is a fine house, with elegant grounds about it; and I have no doubt but the general finds it a happy retreat from the turbulent scenes of Europe. I could not pass this place without a great variety of reflections. General Moreau bore an active part in the French revolution, and supported a character in arms, rivalled only by that of Bonaparte himself. He fought for republican principles, and braved every danger to establish them in his native land. His reputation rose with his extraordinary merit, and he was in the full tide of popularity in the republic, which he had served to establish, when, by a sudden transition of fortune, that republic vanished from the earth: his great rival in arms was elevated to a throne; and he was exiled to the banks of the Delaware. But happy, in my mind, is he who is thus exiled. A republican finds here A REPUBLIC, and the only republic on the face of the earth that ever deserved the name: where all are under the protection of equal laws; of laws made by THEMSELVES: where every man “sits under his vine, and under his fig-tree, and none to make him afraid;” and where, far removed from the turbulence and din of maddened Europe, he can enjoy “health, and peace, and sweet content.”

From Trenton bridge we travelled 10 miles, to Bristol. The road was good, and passes partly by the river side, through a level country, but the soil is rather sandy. The banks of the river are very beautiful, and adorned with many elegant villas. Bristol is a handsome village, on the banks of the river, and contains probably 100 houses, many of them elegant. A few miles beyond Bristol we passed a considerable creek, and continuing our course near the river side, through a very fine country, we passed through Frankford , five miles from Philadelphia. This is an elegant village, containing about 100 houses, and is a place of considerable resort for the inhabitants of Philadelphia in the summer season. A little beyond this we passed a rising ground, called Prospect 0116 116 Hill, where we had the first view of Philadelphia. The road here is broad, and well metalled with broken stones, which renders travelling pretty rough, but it is good upon the whole. The country is now rich and level, abounding in gardens and orchards; and exhibits every appearance of the approach to a great city. On entering the city, I was quite delighted with the regularity of the streets, and beauty of the buildings. The stage drove nearly a mile through the city, and I took up my residence at the Mansion-House Hotel, in Third-street.

This city is situated between the Delaware and Schuylkill rivers, about four miles above their junction. It is laid out on an elegant plan, with streets crossing one another at right angles, and extends between the two rivers, being upwards of two miles in length, from east to west, and a little more than one mile in breadth. There are large suburbs to the north and south, on the Delaware river, called the Northern Liberties, Kensington, and Southwark; and these extend upwards of a mile to the north, and half a mile south of the city, making the extreme length on the Delaware river nearly three miles. But the city is closely built to the westward only about a mile; the buildings on the remaining part, towards the Schuylkill, being very thinly scattered. It is however rapidly filling up in that direction. High or Market-street is about 100 feet broad, and running the whole length of the city, is terminated by the Schuylkill bridge to the west. A street of equal breadth, called Broad-street, crosses it in the middle, where there is a large area, called Centre-Square, on which the water-works are built. The streets running parallel to High-street are named after various trees said to have been found on the ground on which they are laid out. To the north, are Mulberry, Sassafras , and Vine; to the south, Chesnut, Walnut, Locust, Spruce, Pine , and Cedar. The cross streets are numbered according to situation from the rivers, thus, Front, Second, Third, and so on, to Thirteenth, on the Delaware side; and from Front to Eighth, on the Schuylkill side. Mulberry 0117 117 street is 60 feet wide, and all the other streets are 50. It was the intention of the benevolent projector of the city that Front-street, on the Delaware, should have been the eastern boundary, and that the space between that and the river should have been converted into public ground, useful and ornamental to the city; but this elegant plan has given way to the avidity for commercial gain, and this spot is now thickly built up with wharves, warehouses, and dwelling-houses; which form a street on the low ground along the margin of the river, called Water-street. In the original plan there were a great number of public squares, but several of them have also been infringed upon, though there are still many left, which are very ornamental to the city.

This city contained, by the census of 1800, 81,000 inhabitants, and, as there has been a great increase since, they are now estimated at upwards of 90,000; * and the buildings at upwards of 14,000.

The city is composed almost wholly of brick houses, covered with slate, or shingles; and they are generally ornamented with marble steps, with soles and lintels for the doors and windows; which form an elegant contrast with the brick, and add much to the beauty of the buildings. Some of the public buildings are wholly composed of marble, and others are much ornamented with it, which gives the city an elegant and even magnificent appearance.

The public buildings are very numerous. The bare mention of a few of them will be sufficient to convey an idea of the importance of this city. The State-House, with the Court-Houses and Philosophical Hall adjoining, the Dispensary, Alms-Houses Hospital, Jail, Carpenter's Hall, College, Academy, Library, two theatres, four banks, five quaker meeting-houses, six presbyterian churches, three episcopal churches, four Roman catholic churches, three methodist churches, and one each for German Calvinists, German Lutherans, Swedish Lutherans, Moravians, baptists, Jews, and universalists. †

The State-House is remarkakle as being the place from whence the independence of the United States was first proclaimed; and the legislature of the United States held their meetings in the adjoining buildings, while Philadelphia was the seat of the general 0118 118 government. When the legislature of Pennsylvania continued at Philadelphia, they held their meetings in the State-House; but the seat of government has been removed to Lancaster, and that building now contains Peale's Museum.

There are three market-houses in the city, the principal of which is in High-street. It is a very handsome building, about a quarter of a mile in length, and is well suplied with provisions. The price of provisions is somewhat cheaper than in New York. Beef, mutton, and veal may be quoted at from 6 to 8 cents per pound, and, generally speaking, all other articles of domestic production may be quoted as one-fifth cheaper than in the latter city.

The manufactures of this city are rising into great importance. The principal are leather of every description, a great variety of wood and iron work, ships, ropes, fermented and distilled liquors, earthenware, tin plate, hats, stockings, and a vast variety of cloths of various descriptions. The printing business is better established here than in any other place on the continent, and gives employment to a great number of paper-mills, and all classes connected with the book-trade: printers, type-founders, engravers, bookbinders, and booksellers and stationers.

The whole export trade of the state is carried on through this city. The exports are grain, flour, and provisions, flaxseed, timber, various iron utensils, cordage, bark, skins, hosiery, gun-powder, ashes, candles, cyder, &c. The imports consist of British manufactures to a great amount, West India produce, India goods, China produce, &c. The exports of the state, in 1805, amounted to 13,762,252 dollars, of which 4,365,240 dollars was the produce of the state; and the imports may be reckoned at considerably more, as Philadelphia supplies the inhabitants of an immense back country with manufactured goods, who find an outlet for their produce by another channel, and remit in domestic produce or specie, neither of which is exhibited in the custom-house returns.

This city is under great obligations to the quakers, who have given a tone to the manners of the people, different from what is to be found in most other places of equal extent. They are industrious and sober; and, though sufficiently commercial, they do not conduct their business in the same dashing style which is done by some commercial cities; but confine themselves within 0119 119 bounds, and secure what they gain. Education is on an excellent footing: besides the larger seminaries already noticed, there are numerous academies and schools throughout, the city. The arts and sciences have been long cultivated. A Philosophical Society was established in the year 1769, and they have published several volumes of their transactions. The Library Company was established as early as the year 1731.—The other societies of greatest importance are the College of Physicians, instituted for the purpose of promoting medical, anatomical, and chemical knowledge; the Pennsylvanian Society for promoting the Abolition of Slavery, and the relief of free Negroes unlawfully held in bondage; the Pennsylvania Academy of Fine Arts; the Agricultural Society; Premium Society; a Society for alleviating the Miseries of Public Prisons; Humane Society; Marine Benevolent Society; St. Andrew's Society; Scots Thistle Society; St. Patrick's Society; Hibernian Society; St. George's Society; Welsh Society; French Benevolent Society; German Society. The Grand Lodge of Pennsylvania is established here, and there are 15 or 16 lodges of free-masons.

The police of the city is said to be better regulated than that of any other on the continent. It appears to be much better than New York. There are public scavengers, who clean the streets at stated times, and the side pavements are generally washed every morning. These are broad, and generally well paved with brick, and, the streets being lined with rows of treees, a walk through the city in a summer morning is delightful. The city is elevated 50 or 60 feet above the river, in consequence of which there is an ample descent for the water; and the streets are well supplied with common sewers, which serve to carry off all the filth; and they are kept sweet by the supply of fresh water from the water-works, which is constantly pouring into them from every part of the city. This supply of water also keeps the streets pure by running along the gutters, so that almost every street has a little stream on each side of it; and this circumstance, though apparently trivial, is probably of more importance than is generally imagined.

They have here, as well as in New York, adopted the plan of sinking necessaries; but I was informed that those in Philadelphia must be regularly cleaned, and I did not observe the smell to be near so offensive as at New York: both cities, however, in my 0120 120 opinion, would admit of great improvement in this important branch of police. *

The inhabitants generally have fresh complexions, the indication of temperance and health. Their dress and manners are pretty much assimilated to those of New York, although there is a considerable sprinkling of the quaker habits diffused through the city, which may at first view, to a stranger, appear more forbidding and austere; but, on the other hand, the attention they do pay, being the result of consideration, may probably be more sincere, and their friendship of a kind that will wear well.

The two first days of my stay in Philadelphia were wet and stormy, so that I could see but little. I took a ride, in company with a friend, to the floating bridge on the Schuylkill river, near its junction with the Delaware. The river is here about 300 yards broad, and the country between it and Philadelphia is level, rich, and well cultivated.

On the 27th, I went to see the water-works. The building which contains the reservoir is in the Centre-Square, being the most elevated ground in the city. It occupies a square of 60 feet; from the middle there is a circular tower, 40 feet in diameter, and 60 feet high, which contains the reservoir; and this tower is terminated by a dome, which gives it a very handsome appearance. The water is conveyed to this building from the Schuylkill, a distance of nearly a mile, through a circular brick tunnel, of six 0121 121 feet diameter, having a fall of six inches toward the Schuylkill. The water is received from the Schuylkill into a substantial basin and canal, and from thence is raised by a steam-engine to the level of the aqueduct, which conveys it to the Centre-Square. It is there received into another basin, and thence, by another steam-engine, is elevated to the circular tower, from whence it issues through wooden pipes, in all directions, to supply the city.

The whole expence of the works was about 150,000 dollars (£.33,750 sterling.) The work was undertaken by the corporation, who raised the funds partly by a tax, and partly by loan, allowing the subscribers to the loan six per cent. interest for their money, and the use of the water free for three years, for every 100 dollars subscribed.

The city is supplied with water by contract, and the contractor is obliged to supply three millions of gallons per day if required. The annual expense is six thousand dollars for one million of gallons per day, and for any additional quantity, up to two millions, the expense is at the rate of half that sum. The engine is 40 horse power, and can raise, if necessary, four millions and a half of gallons per day; so that the supply must be abundant for every purpose.

The water is soft and good; but it is not filtered, and is, of course, sometimes muddy, though never so much so as to render it unfit for use; and it is always wholesome. It is of great importance to these works that they are the property of the public, and not subject to individual speculation, in consequence of which the supply is liberal, and there are fountains in every street, to which the whole public have access. The water can be used for watering the streets, or extinguishing fires, as often as may be necessary; while every householder, by paying a reasonable compensation, can have a hydrant in any part of his premises that he pleases, even to the attic story. In short, this water is a great luxury, and is, in my opinion, of incalculable advantage to the health, as it certainly is to the convenience and comfort of the community.

The supply of cities with water is a subject of great importance; and it is to be hoped that the inhabitants of other places in the United States will profit by the laudable example set them by the citizens of Philadelphia, and the happy effects which have resulted from it. The power of the steam-engine, properly applied, can send water to any city, and cities are generally sufficiently opulent to bear the expense. All that is wanting is a proper plan, put in motion by 16 0122 122 some of the leading men. On this branch I have to notice that a great saving can be made from the application of the forcing pump, by which means the water can be conveyed to any reasonable height and distance, by one engine. The conductor must, in that case, be constructed of metallic tubes, which can be made of any diameter, according to the supply of water wanted; and they must be furnished with valves, to prevent the reaction of the water.

I shall also notice in this place that filtration of the water is a great improvement, and it can be easily done, to any extent whatever, by the application of a plan, the invention of a very ingenious mechanic in Scotland, which I shall here communicate.

I shall describe it from the model which I saw; the application to any scale is easy. The model consisted of a cask, in which was inserted a false bottom, about three inches above the real bottom; the false bottom was perforated with small holes, and in the middle was a tube, elevated a little above the top of the cask, and which formed a communication through the false bottom to the space below: the cask was filled with gravel of a proper kind for filtration. The water was conveyed through the tube into the space between the two bottoms, where it deposited the greater part of its sediment, and rising upwards through the gravel, on the principle of a spring, ran over the top of the cask, pure and transparent. The effect was as complete as could be imagined. The water that he used was very muddy, and was, by this simple contrivance, rendered perfectly pure; the contrast being so great, that when it was exhibited in the different states in clear wine-glasses, the one, to use the inventor's expression, was like punch, the other like pure spirits.

He informed me that the gravel answered better at the time I viewed it than it did at first, probably in consequence of the mud already deposited attracting that in the water. He had not used it long enough to ascertain the period at which it would get too much choaked up by the mud; but he had a contrivance to obviate the effect of it, equally simple and efficacious with all the rest. It consisted in opening a stop-cock below, and letting the water filter downwards, by which means it would wash all the sediment along with it.

I have seen different filters, some of them upwards, some downwards, and some lateral; but I never saw any so simple and so complete as this.

The best mode of applying the plan upon a large scale would, I 0123 123 think, be this: to have a reservoir of from 10 to 20 feet deep, and of any dimensions that might be wanted for the purpose intended; have it lined and bedded with hewn stone, and divided into three apartments; let one of these receive the water, where it will deposite its sediment; from thence let it run into the second, containing the filter; and from thence be conveyed into the third, clear for use.

It is to be observed that the first of these apartments must be elevated a little above the second, and the second above the third; and the elevation may be great or small, according to the rate at which the water is required to circulate from the one to the other.

From the Water-works I went, accompanied by a friend, to see the State Prison. I was introduced to one of the inspectors, who was also one of the founders of the institution. He accompanied us, and explained the whole system very much to my satisfaction.

This benevolent institution owes its origin to the enlightened citizens of Philadelphia. Its object is to receive the vicious, and, if possible, to reclaim them to virtue; and is an admirable constrast to the sanguinary punishments of old governments, who, for even pecuniary offences, send them off to the other world to be reclaimed there. This institution does not admit offenders till after conviction, when they are received from the different parts of the state. It is hence called the State-Prison. When a criminal is received, his name is put upon record, or, to use a commercial idea, he becomes a partner in the concern, and an account is accordingly raised for him in the books. Inquiry is then made what he can do; if he can work at any trade, he is taken to the apartment where that branch is carried on, and has his task assigned him. If he can work at no trade he is sent to saw marble. As a stimulus to industry, the convicts get credit in the books for the proceeds of their labour, and are debited with the expense of their board and clothing, which however is not very expensive, as every thing is conducted upon an economical plan, and when they are released, should their earnings be more than the expence of maintenance, the balance is paid to them.

Almost every trade is carried on in the prison; and the institution is so organized that every necessary of life is attended to by the convicts themselves: baking, cooking, scrubbing the rooms, and so on; and every thing is kept remarkably clean. The food is wholesome and nutritive, consisting of Indian meal, bread, and meat. The drink is molasses and water; and no spirituous liquors are admitted within the walls of the prison.

There is a separate apartment for the reception of female convicts, where the various parts of female labour are carried on, and it is otherwise under the same system of management as that for the males.

I visited every apartment, and was highly pleased with the order and economy of the whole establishment. In the course of our visit, one of the convicts came up to our conductor, and solicited very strongly for his recommendation in his favour. Upon making enquiry what he meant by this, I was informed, that, as the object is purely to protect society from the inroads of the vicious, and to reclaim the vicious to civilized life, the governor has the power of mitigating the punishment, and of pardoning the offenders, upon receiving satisfactory evidence that the applicant is fit for civil society; and the best evidence being the opinion of the inspectors of the prison, the criminals are, of course, anxious to procure it in their favour. This is a very happy stimulus to good behaviour. Our conductor observed that it was a very sacred trust, and to be used with great caution. He did not think this chap was yet ripe for a release,—he must wait a little.

The whole institution is under the direction of competent managers; and, to insure proper discipline, there is a gradation of punishments within the prison, consisting chiefly of solitary confinement in cells.

I notice this subject particularly, because it is, so far as I know, of pure American origin, and is happily adapted to the genius of the government of the country, mild, just, and merciful. Some of the other states already noticed, have imitated the example of Pennsylvania; and I was informed that the plan was likely to be generally adopted throughout the Union.

We next visited the Library, the account of which I shall transcribe from the Continuation of the Life of Dr. Franklin.

“The promotion of literature had been little attended to in Pennsylvania. Most of the inhabitants were too much immersed in business to think of scientific pursuits; and those few whose inclinations led them to study, found it difficult to gratify them, from the want of sufficiently large libraries. In such circumstances the establishment of a public library was an important event. This was first set on foot by Franklin, about the year 1731. Fifty persons subscribed forty shillings each, and agreed to pay ten shillings annually. The number increased, and, in 1742, the company was 0125 125 incorporated by the name of ‘The Library Company of Philadelphia.’ Several other companies were formed in this city, in imitation of it; and these were all, at length, united with the Library Company of Philadelphia, which thus received a considerable accession of books and property. It now contains about 8000 volumes on all subjects, a philosophical apparatus, and a good beginning towards a collection of natural and artificial curiosities, besides landed property of considerable value. The company have lately built an elegant house in Fifth-street, in the front of which will be a marble statue of their founder, Benjamin Franklin.

“This institution was greatly encouraged by the friends of literature in America and in Great Britain. The Penn family distinguished themselves by their donations.—Among the earliest friends of this institution must be mentioned the late Peter Collinson, the friend and correspondent of Dr. Franklin. He not only made considerable presents himself, and obtained many others from his friends, but voluntarily undertook to manage the business of the company in London, recommending books, purchasing and shipping them. His extensive knowledge, and zeal for the promotion of science, enabled him to execute this important trust with the greatest advantage; and he continued to perform these services for more than 30 years, and uniformly refused to accept of any compensation. During this time, he communicated to the directors every information relative to improvements and discoveries in arts, agriculture, and philosophy.

“The beneficial influence of this institution was soon evident. The cheapness of the terms rendered it accessible to every one. Its advantages were not confined to the opulent. The citizens in the middle and lower walks of life were equally partakers of them. Hence a degree of information was extended among all classes of the people, which is very unusual in other places. The example was soon followed. Libraries were established in various places, and they are now become very numerous in the United States, particularly in Pennsylvania. It is to be hoped that they will be still more widely extended, and that information will be every where increased. This will be the best Security for maintaining our liberties. A nation of well-informed men, who have been taught to know and prize the rights which God has given them, cannot be enslaved. It is in the regions of ignorance that tyranny 0126 126 reigns. It flies before the light of science. Let the citizens of America, then, encourage institutions calculated to diffuse knowledge amongst the people; and among these, PUBLIC LIBRARIES are not the least important.”

The library has been since removed to the building alluded to in the above extract. It is elegant and commodious, and has a statue of Franklin in front, the donation of the late Mr. Bingham. The library now consists of more than 14,000 volumes, in all the various departments of literature. It is divided into shares of 40 dollars each; but the number is unlimited. The subscribers are at present upwards of 500. Besides the purchase of the share, each subscriber pays two dollars annually, to the support of the institution.

The library is open every day, except Sunday, from 2 o'clock to sunset, and the subscribers may either read in the library, or be accommodated with books to read in their houses. The rule relative to strangers and non-subscribers is very liberal. They may have the use of the books in the library, while it is open, free of expense, or, on depositing the value, may borrow books and peruse them at home, on paying a small sum for the use of them.

I may take occasion to remark here that I consider 40 dollars of entry to a library too high, and two dollars of annual subscription too low. The great object of a library is to disseminate knowledge. To secure that object, the library should be within the reach of every member of the community. But every one cannot afford to give 40 dollars at once, while the greater part of those who wish to read can afford more than two dollars a year. The class of people to whom an institution of this kind is the most valuable is young men entering into the world, many of whom could not, or would not willingly, advance 40 dollars, but who would cheerfully give four or five dollars a year. Would it not be a wise regulation to accommodate such?

The most flourishing library, in point of funds, that I have heard of, is one in London, where the entry is one guinea, and the annual subscription is the same. It is entirely public, unclogged with any idea of stock, or shares. The subscribers are above 1000, and the income is, of course, above 1000 guineas a year.

The Glasgow public library is on a similar plan, but with more 0127 127 limited funds, and is the most thriving institution of the kind that has ever come under my observation. *

From the library we passed to Peale's Museum, which is a very excellent collection, principally of subjects in natural history, and does honour to the ingenuity and taste of the proprietor. Among other curiosities it contains an entire skeleton of the mammoth, well worth the attention of the naturalist.

I took a walk to the Schuylkill bridge, which is an elegant structure, consisting of three arches, built of wood, supported by strong stone piers, and covered in on the top. The length of the bridge is 550 feet, besides the abutments and wing walls, which are 750 more. The span of the middle arch is 198 feet, that of the other two 150 each. It is 42 feet wide. The footways on each side occupy five feet each, and the carriage-way, which is divided into two parts, 32. The bridge, which was six years in building, was finished last year, and the expence was 235,000 dollars.

September 28. Having visited every thing I wished to see in the city, I was invited by a party of friends to take a jaunt in the country. We crossed Schuylkill by the foresaid bridge, and travelled four or five miles, to see a flax spinning-mill, belonging to a gentleman from Dundee. The mill was not at work, but we were informed that the business was doing very well; the produce was mostly twine. Being joined by the Dundee manufacturer, we passed on to the Falls of Schuylkill, where, at a very pleasant situation on its banks, we stopped for dinner.

The Schuylkill river rises in the mountains, about 120 miles north-west of Philadelphia, and is navigable from Reading downwards to the upper falls, three miles above where we stopped. The tide rises to the lower falls, where the river is about 150 yards broad. The falls are much broken by huge masses of stone, with which the bed and banks of the river abound. The banks are highly romantic, and are ornamented with many elegant country seats.

While dinner was preparing we had a dish of politics, in which, frequent appeals were made to me; but I declined taking any share in the argument, for I did not fully agree with either party. Indeed I saw pretty plainly that self-interest was at the bottom of it, and that the party names they assumed were merely 0128 128 other terms for importers and manufacturers , who conceiving that their interests were opposed to each other, blamed the government of the United States—the one party for doing too much in support of domestic manufactures, and the other for doing too little. But all was discussed in good humour.

After dinner we returned, through a pleasant, well-cultivated country, by an excellent turnpike road, and in our way stopped at Harrowgate, where there is a medicinal spring, which is a good deal frequented in the summer season. We returned to the city in the evening. The day was clear and pleasant, and the air cool and healthy.

This fine state is situated between 39° 43′ and 42° north latitude, and 2° 20′ east, and 3° 30′ west longitude. It is 320 miles long, from east to west, and 162 miles broad; and contains 49,390 square miles, being 31,609,600 acres.

The face of the country is remarkably diversified. The south-east part, to the distance of about 60 or 70 miles from Philadelphia is an undulating country, swelling in some places into considerable hills; but it is not mountainous. The mountainous region then commences, and extends across the country about 120 miles. The mountains are generally in long chains, running north-east and south-west. Between the chains, the country is rough and hilly, but there are many fine valleys, and the whole abounds with picturesque scenery. To the north and west of the mountains, the country is elevated, abounding with hills, valleys and rich scenery; which continue about 120 miles, to the extremity of the state.

The country is remarkably well watered. Lake Erie is situated on the north-west, and the Delaware bay on the south-east, by both of which there are fine outlets, the one affording direct and speedy communication with the Atlantic Ocean, the other communicating with it by the more circuitous course of the river St. Lawrence; while it is a link in the chain of an inland navigation, extending through the lakes upwards of a thousand miles. To 0129 129 the south-west, the state communicates with the Ohio, having an outlet through the Mississippi, to the Gulf of Mexico; and from the middle there is an outlet through the Susquehannah to the Chesapeak bay.

The rivers Delaware and Schuylkill have been already mentioned. The most important of the others I shall notice in their order from east to west.

The Lehigh rises among the mountains, between the Delaware and Susquehannah, and running a very crooked passage, emerges from the mountains about 50 miles from its source, and from thence runs through a fine country 30 miles, during which it is navigable, to Easton, where it falls into the Delaware.

The Susquehannah is a noble river, and appears on the map like a large crooked tree, with numerous branches. The head waters of the eastern branch are numerous, and rise in the state of New York, not far from the waters of the Mohawk river. Passing into the state of Pennsylvania, it makes a remarkable bend, called appropriately the Big Bend; from thence it makes a stretch into New York, and passing to the westward, about 40 miles, turns again to the southward, and passes into the state of Pennsylvania, where it forms a junction with the Tioga river at Tioga point. It then runs a south-east course, about 70 miles; when making a sudden bend, at a right angle, it runs a south-west course, about 80 miles, and unites with the western branch, at Northumberland. The river is now nearly half a mile broad, and flows through the mountains, nearly a south course of 40 miles, to where it receives the Junita river. From thence it makes a considerable bend to the eastward, and running about 10 miles, it emerges from the mountains, above Harrisburg; and keeps a south-east course about 80 miles, when it falls into the Chesapeak bay.

The Tioga river has its head waters partly in Pennsylvania, and partly in New York, where some of the streams approach within a few miles of the waters of the St. Lawrence. These all unite in New York state, towards the Painted Post, and run a south-east course of nearly 40 miles, to the junction with the Susquehannah.

The western branch of the Susquehannah is formed by many streams, beyond the Allegany mountains, some of them approaching within a few miles of the waters of the St. Lawrence, and others 17 0130 130 within a few miles of the waters of the Ohio and Mississippi, and runs a very circuitous course, upwards of 200 miles, principally among the mountains, to its junction with the east branch.

The Junita river rises on the Allegany mountains, near the head waters of the Conemaugh, a branch of the Ohio, and passing through the mountains to the eastward, by a very serpentine course, it falls into the Susquehannah as aforesaid, its length being nearly 200 miles.

The length of the Susquehannah, from the Chesapeak bay to the head of the eastern branch, is upwards of 450 miles; and the whole river, including its branches, waters a country nearly 200 miles square. It is navigable for large vessels only a few miles, and there are many islands, rocks, and falls, which obstruct the navigation for boats; but it is presumed that these can be removed, and that, by the aid of some locks and canals, it can be rendered navigable, almost to the source of the eastern branch. The western branch is navigable, for boats, nearly 150 miles, and the Junita river nearly 120. From this short account, the importance of improving the navigation of this fine river will be readily inferred.

The Allegany River rises on the highest land in the state, to the westward of the mountains, within a few miles of the head waters of the Genesee River, and the western branch of the Susquehannah. It is here called Oswaya Creek, and runs a north-west course into the state of New York, and, passing again into the state of Pennsylvannia, it receives the waters of Conewongo Creek and Chataughque Lake. From thence it runs a winding course, but generally south-west, to Franklin, where it receives the waters of French Creek. From thence it runs a circuitous course about 100 miles, receiving in its progress many tributary streams, particularly Toby's Creek and Kishkemanetas River, and at Pittsburg forms a junction with the Monongahela, which together constitute the Ohio.

The Allegany is a navigable river, and the navigation is continued through French Creek to Waterford, from whence there is a portage of only 14 miles to Lake Erie. The navigation is extended into the country 20 or 25 miles, by the Kishkemanetas River.

The Monongahela rises in Virginia, near the Laurel mountains, and, running by a meandering course about 70 miles, passes into 0131 131 this state; soon after which it receives the waters of Cheat River. From thence it continues, by a serpentine course, but nearly in a northern direction, about 60 miles, where it forms a junction with Yoxhiogeni, and thence runs north-west about 14 miles to Pittsburg. It is navigable in large boats to Brownsville and Morgantown, 100 miles from its mouth; and from thence by small boats 40 miles farther. The western branch is also navigable in high water.

The Yoxhiogeni rises in Maryland, and runs a course east of north, about 40 miles, before it passes into this state. From thence it runs a north-west course, and, passing the Laurel Hill and Chesnut Ridge, forms the junction with the Monongahela above mentioned; its whole length being about 100 miles.

This state is well supplied with iron ore, and coal abounds in many places, particularly in the western country. Slate is found in several places; and marble and freestone, of an excellent quality, are found in great abundance. Limestone is also in great plenty, and some copper and lead have been found, but not in sufficient quantity to be wrought. There are many mineral springs in the state.

The soil to the east of the mountains is generally good, and a considerable part of it is bedded on limestone. Among the mountains, the land is rough, and much of it poor; but there are a great many rich and fertile valleys. To the west of the mountains, the soil is generally excellent.

The climate is very various. On the east side of the Allegany mountains it is pretty similar to Jersey, already described. It is, in common with the other countries east of the mountains, subject to great and sudden changes; but it is considered more settled than immediately on the sea-board, and is perfectly healthy. The winter commences about the 20th of December, and the spring sets in about two weeks earlier than at New York. Among the mountains there is a sharp atmosphere, with a clear, settled sky. There is frost almost every month in the year in some places; and the extremes of heat and cold are considerable. The winters may be reckoned a month longer than to the east-ward. The whole region is very healthy.—The country beyond the mountains has a temperate climate, with a considerable portion of cloudy weather; and the winters are more humid and mild than on the Atlantic.

The state was first settled by the Swedes and Finlanders in 1627, and afterwards by the illustrious Willian Penn, in 1681; and from the liberal principles which he adopted, and the encouragement held out to settlers of all denominations, the country experienced a rapid progress. The state took an active part in the revolutionary war, during great part of which Philadelphia was the seat of congress. A state constitution was framed at an early period of the war; but a new one was adopted in 1790. The state now sends two senators and eighteen representatives to congress.

Pennsylvania is divided into 37 counties, and upwards of 500 townships. The population, in 1800, was 602,365, including 1150 slaves, being about 12 persons to the square mile.

The state has made rapid progress in national improvements, and abounds in all the conveniences, and many of the luxuries of life. The accumulation of property since the close of the war is very great; and, exclusive of Philadelphia, the state contains 12 towns, in which there are from 1000 to 4500 inhabitants, among which Lancaster, York, Reading, Carlisle, and Pittsburg are the most conspicuous. Besides these, there are upwards of 20 villages, each containing from 100 to 1000 inhabitants, and the greater part, if not the whole of those towns and villages are increasing in wealth and population. The farm houses are mostly comfortable, many of them elegant, and there are fine barns and other buildings. The state is well improved by turnpike roads and bridges; and lately a great degree of attention has been paid to canals. Many turnpike and canal companies have been formed.

The agriculture of the state has progressed rapidly, and is in an advanced state. The staple article is wheat, of which the quantity manufactured into flour annually is immense. It is reckoned the best in the United States, and surpassed by none in the world. The mountainous district is pretty much applied to raising stock. The breed of horses is reckoned the best in the United States. Sheep have of late greatly increased, and thrive remarkably well. All the grains, grasses, and roots common to the other states thrive here. The stock of fruit, particularly peaches, is excellent; and some progress has of late been made in the cultivation of the vine.

Pennsylvania is said to be one of the greatest manufacturing states in the Union. Domestic manufactures are general throughout 0133 133 the state; but there are many manufacturers on a large scale, some of which may be enumerated. Of iron there are above thirty furnaces, besides numerous forges, slitting mills, and trip hammers. Of wood, all sorts of furniture, and implements of husbandry. Of leather, boots, shoes, saddles, bridles, harness, &c. Of wool, a variety of cloths, stockings, and hats. Together with a variety of other articles, such as malt liquors, spirits, glass, ashes, maple-sugar, musquets, powder, shot, balls, cannon, bells, &c. &c.

The exports consist principally of grain, flour, iron utensils, flaxseed, soap and candles, lumber, beef, pork, &c. The amount of exports, in 1805, was 13,762,252 dollars, of which 4,365,240 dollars was domestic produce. The principal articles of export to Britain are grain and flour, and some cotton from the southern states. The imports consist of East and West India and China goods; wine, gin, &c. from the continent of Europe; and manufactures from Britain; of which the quantity imported is immense, and is yearly increasing. The value of imports is about 12,000,000 dollars annually, of which those from Britain are a full half; from whence we may infer the utility of the trade to both countries, and the importance of a good understanding between them.

The state of society may be pretty much inferred from the preceding remarks. The inhabitants have every external appearance of ease and affluence, and they are remarkably civil and industrious. There are no beggars to be seen here. Indeed, I have not yet seen any in the United States, which is a remarkable contrast to Europe, and bears testimony to the prosperity of the country.

The civil government is vested in a legislature, consisting of a senate and house of representatives. The senators are chosen for four years, and the representatives annually, by the people. The executive authority is vested in a governor, who is also elected by the people, and holds his office for three years. The constitution declares, “That all men are born equally free and independent;— that all power is inherent in the people;—that all men have a natural and indefeasible right to worship God according to the dictates of their own consciences, and no man can of right be compelled to attend, erect, or support any place of worship, or to maintain any ministry against his consent;—that no human authority can, in any case whatever, controul or interfere with the rights of conscience, and that no preference shall ever be given, by law, to any religious establishment, or modes of worship;—that elections 0134 134 shall be free and equal;—that trial by jury shall be inviolate;— that no law shall ever be made to restrain the liberty of the press; —that the people shall be secure against all unwarrantable searches, and excessive bail shall not be required;—that the legislature shall provide by law for the establishment of schools throughout the state, in such a manner as the poor may be taught gratis;— the arts and sciences shall be promoted.”

Tuesday, September 30. Having engaged a passage on board a packet-boat bound to Newcastle, 40 miles below this city, 1 went on board this morning at 7 o'clock. The packet was called the Hope, and was one of a line of boats that run between Philadelphia and Newcastle; from thence there is a communication by stages across the state of Delaware to the Chesapeak bay, where another line of boats, connected with this, proceeds to Baltimore: the whole called, appropriately, Land and Water Stages. The distance by this route is about 120 miles, and the fare, including board, is about three dollars.

We set sail with a light wind, and almost right against us; but the tide was in our favour, and we made tolerable progress till we reached six miles below Philadelphia, where we got aground on a place called the Horse-Shoe, where we lay nearly two hours. After getting off, we sailed about four miles, when we were obliged to come to anchor, the wind and tide being both against us. Having stopped here till three o'clock in the afternoon, we weighed anchor, and sailed eight or ten miles; but the wind was right ahead, and had increased too much to beat down, so we were obliged again to come to anchor. We once more set sail at 11 o'clock at night, and next morning at 5 o'clock, we reached Newcastle.

The river at Philadelphia is about a mile broad, and it widens as you proceed downwards. At Newcastle it is two miles broad; from thence it spreads out into the Delaware bay. The banks of the river are level, and covered with wood; and the lands rise to a considerable height at a distance, affording in some places pretty good views. The only rivers of note that join the Delaware between 0135 135 Philadelphia and Newcastle, are the Schuylkill and Brandywine creek. The post-road to Baltimore runs along the western bank, and passes through Derby and Chester in Pennsylvania, and Wilmington in the state of Delaware; which last is a large town, and has a very pretty appearance when viewed from the river. On the east side, in Jersey, are Gloucester, Woodbury, and Swedesborough.

Newcastle, where we stopped, is a small town containing about 200 houses, some of them handsome. It carries on a considerable trade, principally in wheat.

October 1st. Having taken an early breakfast, at a very good tavern, we set out in the stage for the head of Elk river. The road passes 13 miles through the state of Delaware, and 11 miles through Maryland; and I found the whole distance a perfect level, without a single object to excite attention, or gratify the imagination. The road was very bad, the lands alternately sandy and marshy; and the people had a sallow sickly colour: the whole indicating a country somewhat similar to the low lands of Carolina and Georgia. But I was informed that this was a sort of bye-road, which had been taken by this line of stages, and that it led through the very worst part of the country.

The state of Delaware is situated between 38° 29′ and 39° 47′ north latitude, and to 15′ and 1° 56′ east longitude. Its greatest length is 100 miles, and greatest breadth about 37; its area being about 2200 square miles, or about 1,408,000 acres.

The face of a great part of the country is level, abounding with swamps and stagnant water; but toward the northern part it is more elevated, and near its extremity there is a considerable chain of hills.

There are numerous creeks in the state, but no rivers of consequence. The principal one is Brandywine creek, which falls into the Delaware at Wilmington, and on which there are numerous mills and manufactories.

The state is well supplied with iron, but I did hear of any other mineral.

The soil, in the southern part, is low and sandy, and entirely free of stones; in the northern part, it is more diversified, and mixed with clay and loam.

The climate partakes Of the configuration of the country. The southern part has a humid atmosphere, often foggy and unwholesome; but is mild and temperate in winter. The northern part is agreeable and healthy.

The settlement of this state was coeval with that of Pennsylvania. It took an active part in the revolution, and sent two delegates to the first congress. The state constitution was adopted in 1792. It now sends two senators and one representative to congress.

Delaware is divided into three counties and 24 districts, called hundreds. The population, in 1800, was 64,273, including 6143 slaves; being about 29 to the square mile.

The state of Delaware is considerably improved, and, besides many towns and villages of inferior note, contains several of considerable size. The most important are,—Wilmington, already mentioned, a large thriving town, built on the plan of Philadelphia, consisting of 500 houses, a court-house, jail, and four places for public worship; it carries on a very considerable trade. Newcastle has been noticed. DOVER is the seat of government, and contains about 600 inhabitants. Lewistown contains about 750; and Georgetown about 200.

A canal was projected across this state and part of Maryland, to form a junction between the Delaware and Chesapeak, and it is partly cut; but the work was stopped for want of funds. It may probably be well that it is so; for it was projected on too small a scale, and, in process of time, will probably give way to one that will admit of sloop navigation. I never observed a finer situation for a canal. The distance between the Delaware and Chesapeak is only about 18 or 20 miles, and the county is nearly level, so that few locks will be requisite; and were a canal cut, it would form a connexion between two of the finest rivers in America, and be a link in the chain of an internal navigation of vast extent.

The greater part of the inhabitants of this state are devoted to agricultural pursuits, and they have rendered it very productive. The principal produce is wheat, rye, Indian corn, barley, oats, and flax. Grasses are abundant, and thrive very luxuriantly, furnishing food for many cattle; and every sort of vegetable, common to the states already described, thrive well here. The staple produces wheat, of which a great quantity of flour is made for export.

Flour is the principal manufacture carried on in the state. The mills on Brandywine creek are in great perfection, giving employment to upwards of 600 hands; and they manufacture upwards of half a million of bushels annually. The other articles consist principally of iron, paper, and lumber. In these a very extensive trade is carried on, principally with the other states and the West Indies. The exports in 1805 amounted to 358,383 dollars, of which 280,556 Was foreign produce. The principal trade with Britain is carried on through the medium of Philadelphia.

A very considerable fund is appropriated by the state to the support of schools, which are pretty numerous, and there are two flourishing academies; one at Wilmington, and the other at Newark.

The constitution guarantees equal rights to all the citizens, without regard to property or religious opinions. The government is vested in a governor, a senate, and house of representatives, which are elected by ballot, and “every white freeman, of the age of 21, who has resided in the state two years next before the election, shall enjoy the right of an elector. The sons of persons so qualified shall, betwixt the ages of 21 and 22, be entitled to vote, though they have paid no taxes.”

On the first of October, 1806, the day being clear and beautiful, we arrived at Elk river, a branch of Chesapeak bay, here about two miles broad. At one o'clock we stepped aboard the packet, and immediately set sail with a fair wind; and enjoyed our situation very much after the dull scenery we had passed, and the disagreeable jolting in the stage.

Having sailed about two miles, we passed a pretty large creek, called Bohe river, and, at half past 3 o'clock, reached the Chesapeak bay. The view here was extensive and sublime. The bay is about six or seven miles broad, and its banks abound in rich scenery, while its waters were animated with a great variety of small vessels. To the north-west is the entrance of the fine river Susquehannah, about a mile broad, and its banks swell out into hills of considerable magnitude, which terminated our view in that direction. 18

To the east the country is low, and the soil appears poor and sandy.

The wind shifted to the eastward, which considerably retarded our progress; but this afforded me more leisure to survey the scenery, which was every where pleasant. The number of small vessels that we saw was very great, indicating a considerable commerce.

October 2d. Having gone to bed last evening early, I rose this this morning at 1 o'clock, when I found it clear and cold; and a considerable breeze blowing from the north-west. I thought at first that this was in our favour; but I soon found that we had in the night passed the branch that leads to Baltimore, and were nearly as far down as Annapolis. We had therefore to beat up all the way to Baltimore, now distant about 20 miles: however, the vessel sailed remarkably well, and we made good progress. During the passage upwards we had a very fine view. We arrived at Baltimore at 6 o'clock in the morning.

Having taken lodgings at Evans' tavern, I called on a friend to whom I had a letter of introduction, and he politely offered his services to faciliate my enquiries at Baltimore. On my return to the tavern to breakfast, I was astonished to see the number of well-dressed men who sat down to table, amounting to about 80, and I was told the number was seldom under 40 or 50. This is partly accounted for by Baltimore being the great thoroughfare between the northern and southern states; and the number of people passing to and fro, on business and pleasure, is immense. I learned that a great number of strangers were in the city at this time; among others my old friends and fellow-travellers, the Georgian major, and the facetious Englishman. They lodged at Bryden's tavern, a house nearly or altogether as much frequented as Evans'.

Accompanied by my friend, I went to see the market-house, which is handsomely fitted up, and well supplied with provisions; the prices, I was told, were reasonable, and nearly the same as at Philadelphia. From thence we went to the coffee-house; on our way my friend pointed out, through a window, a very handsome lady, with her child, who he informed me were the wife and child of Jerome Bonaparte. The coffee-house is small, but commodious, and is well supplied with newspapers from every part of the United States. From the coffee-house we went to the library, which contains a very excellent collection of books, and is under good management; the annual subscription is four dollars. The whole city 0139 139 exhibited a very handsome appearance, and the country round abounds in villas, gardens, and well cultivated fields.

In the afternoon I went to view the ship-yards, and saw a three-masted schooner launched. I was informed that a great many of these vessels are built at Baltimore, and that they are reckoned the fastest sailing vessels in the United States.

I spent a very pleasant evening at Bryden's, along with my friend, in company with the major and the Englishman. The major related a number of marvellous adventures he had met with in his journey, and concluded by informing us that he was to drive tandem all the way to Georgia, and was to be accompanied by an elegant lady, and her husband, whom he had engaged as a clerk. To accommodate his suite, he was to take a Jersey waggon, in which he politely offered me a passage; but I preferred travelling in my own way, and declined it. The Englishman informed me that he was to leave Baltimore next morning by the stage for Cumberland, and was from thence to travel through the interior of the country to New Orleans, availing himself of land or water conveyance as he might find it most suitable and expeditious.

Baltimore is situated on a branch of the Patapsco river, called the Basin, 15 miles from the Chesapeak bay, and 160 miles from the Atlantic ocean. At the commencement of the American war, it was but an inconsiderable village; but such has been the rapidity of its growth, that it is now the fourth commercial city in the United States: it contains upwards of 6000 dwelling-houses, and, by the census of 1800, the inhabitants amounted to 26,514, of whom 2843 were slaves: the houses are mostly built of brick, and many of them are elegant; the principal public buildings are 13 places of public worship, a court-house, a jail, three market-houses, a poor-house, the exchange, theatre, observatory, assembly rooms, and library. The manufactures of Baltimore are considerable, and consist chiefly of ships, cordage, iron utensils, paper, saddlery, boots and shoes, hats, wool and cotton cards, &c. In the adjoining country there are numerous mills, furnaces, and forges, which contribute much to the trade of the city.

The state of Maryland, in point of foreign trade, ranks the fourth in the union, and as a very great portion of it centres in Baltimore, it must necessarily add greatly to its wealth and importance. A great portion of the export trade is flour, much of which is received from the state of Pennsylvania, through the medium of the Susquehannah 0140 140 river; and the citizens have a brisk trade in importing and reshipping foreign articles, particularly West Indian produce— rum, sugar, and coffee. A great portion of the imports are manufactured goods from Britain, and, having the supply of an immense back country, this is an increasing trade. I learned too that many of the people in the western states give Baltimore the preference to Philadelphia; it is 50 miles nearer to Pittsburg than the latter city, which has a natural tendency to secure a preference; and the inhabitants of Maryland, who seem to appreciate the importance of this trade, have acted with a laudable zeal in making good roads. Upon the whole, I was highly pleased with the commercial importance of Baltimore, and regretted that I did not fix upon this place for my commercial establishment, in place of Savannah. The trade of Baltimore is facilitated by three banks, having all ample capitals. One is a branch of the bank of the United States.

The affairs of the city are under the management of a city council, consisting of two branches, and a mayor. The police seems to be under good regulations, and the streets are kept very clean, which secures good health to the citizens. Education is pretty well attended to; and the citizens are said to be hospitable and industrious: the men rank as correct men of business; and as to the ladies, I saw but little of them, and can only say, in the language of the quaker, “they look well,”

This state is situated between 38° and 39° 43′ north latitude, and 2° east and 2° 30′ west longitude. Its extreme length from east to west is 212 miles, and its extreme breadth from north to south is 123; but it is very irregular. It is computed to contain about 14,000 square miles, or 8,960,000 acres, of which about one fourth is water.

The face of the country is remarkably variegated. It is bounded on the south-west by the river Potomac to its extremity; and the fine Chesapeak Bay, with its numerous waters, passes through the middle of it. On the east side it presents a coast of about 35 miles to the Atlantic ocean: the eastern shore is low, level and sandy. The country continues to rise by a very gentle ascent, but is generally 0141 141 rally level to Baltimore; it then swells out into a hilly country, and the western part stretches across the mountains.

The Chesapeak Bay has already been noticed; but it merits a more particular description, from its vast importance to this state, and indeed to the United States generally. This bay is formed by the outlet of the Susquehannah River, where it receives French Creek, and a number of smaller streams; it is there about 7 miles broad, and so continues to near the branch that leads up to Baltimore; from thence it assumes various breadths, from 10 to 15 miles, during a course downwards of about 70 miles, to near the Potomac River: from thence it stretches out to 25 of 30 miles, during a passage of 90 miles more, and finally passes into the Atlantic Ocean by an outlet of 20 miles broad: the whole course, from north to south, is nearly 200 miles, and it receives in its passage the whole waters of this state, nearly the whole of the eastern part of Virginia, a great part of those of Pennsylvania, and some of Delaware; exhibiting, upon the whole, a greater confluence of waters than is to be seen in the United States, or almost in the world. The principal rivers in Maryland that run into this bay, besides the Susquehannah and Potomac, are the Patapsco and Patuxent, on the west side; and on the east side, Elk River, Sassafras, Chester, Choptank, Nanticoke, and Pocomoke, the last of which issues out of Cyprus Swamp. There are numerous islands in the bay, and the waters abound with various kinds of fish: the state is generally well watered, and abounds with mill-seats.

Maryland is well supplied with iron ore, and some coal has been found; but not in sufficient quantity to make it an object of importance.

The soil is very various, and a great portion of it is but poor: towards the eastern shore it is low and sandy, abounding with swamps; in the interior there are many fertile spots; but the greater part of the land is poor until you pass the first ridge of mountains, where there is a fertile valley of 12 or 14 miles broad: from thence the soil is pretty much assimilated to the mountainous district of Pennsylvania.

The climate is as various as the soil: the eastern part is pretty similar to Delaware, indicated by a pale sickly colour in the inhabitants. It improves as the land gets hilly, and among the mountains is delightful, the summers being cooled by fine breezes, while the winters are tempered by a southern latitude, which renders them much more mild than to the northward.

The country was first settled by Lord Baltimore, a Roman Catholic, who evinced the liberality of his religious principles, by providing for the free exercise of all other religious opinions in the colony. At the commencement of the revolutionary war, the state was declared to belong to the citizens, who delegated five of their number to the first congress. The state constitution was framed in 1776, which, with a few trifling amendments, still continues. The state now sends two senators and nine representatives to congress.

The state is divided into 19 counties, and contained, by the census of 1800, 241,885 white persons, and 107,707 slaves; being, in the whole, about 25 persons to the square mile of territory; but, when the proportion of water is subtracted, it makes the amount to each square mile nearly 35.

National improvements have kept pace with the industry and perseverance of the inhabitants, and the towns, cultivated farms, roads, and bridges are all so many proofs that the citizens of Maryland are possessed, in a high degree, of these qualifications.

Of the cities, Baltimore, already described, is the chief. Annapolis is the seat of government, and is situated on the Severn River, about two miles from its entrance into Chesapeak Bay. The houses, built of brick, are about 300 in number, and the city contains about 2500 inhabitants. The State-House is one of the most superb buildings in the United States. There is a college, a theatre, and two places of public worship in the city. It has a harbour, though no great commerce; but, being a pleasant place, it is the residence of a great many wealthy people. Frederick-town is a large inland town, containing a court-house, jail, academy, market-house, and seven places of public worship. The inhabitants are about 6000; and the town has considerable manufactures and inland trade. Hagers-town , situated beyond the first range of mountains, contains 2100 inhabitants. Besides these, there are a great number of smaller towns and villages, containing from 100 to 1000 inhabitants. A great number of the farm-houses are built of wood, and they are not so substantial, nor so elegant, in general, as those in Pennsylvania.

This is the first state in which there is a material difference of agriculture from the northern states; still, however, the staple crop is wheat; but they raise a considerable quantity of tobacco 0143 143 and some cotton, though none of the latter for exportation. All the other grains, grasses, and roots, that grow in the northern states, flourish here; and the sweet potatoe, a root belonging to a warm climate, comes to considerable maturity.

The principal manufactures of the state have been noticed in the account of Baltimore; and so has the foreign trade. The exports from the state, in 1805, amounted to 10,859,480 dollars, of which 7,450,937 dollars was foreign produce; and the imports are about equal in value, of which a great part consists in dry goods from Britain.

There are considerable funds appropriated to the support of education. There are five colleges, and a number of very respectable academies in the state, and common schools in every county.

The civil government is vested in a governor, senate, and house of delegates, all chosen annually. The qualification to vote for delegates is a freehold of 50 acres of land, or property to the value of £.30 currency. The principles of government are similar to those of Pennsylvania.

On the third of October, at eight o'clock, I set out in the mail stage for Washington. We travelled eight miles through a hilly, well-wooded, and healthy country, and arrived at Patapsco creek, 25 miles above its junction with the Chesapeak. It is navigable thus far, but the navigation is obstructed by the falls half a mile above. We travelled eight miles more through a similar country, when we stopped to change horses. The land seemed but poor, and little cultivated; the principal woods were oak, hickory, and pine. The air was sweet and pure, and having intelligent company in the stage, the travelling was very agreeable. At 19 miles from Patapsco creek, we stopped again to change horses, on an elevated situation, where we had a fine view of the adjacent country; and, in one direction, not less than 20 miles distant.

From thence we travelled 16 miles, through a country rough and uneven, and by a road no less so, when we came to an agreeable plain; and two miles further we passed through a little scattering 0144 144 village called Bladensburg, situated on the east branch of the Potomac; from thence we travelled nine miles more to Washington city; the whole distance being 44 miles. The country appeared generally poor and sterile; and the season had been uncommonly dry, in consequence of which all the grass and herbs were parched, and the face of nature every where exhibited a scorched-like appearance. I noticed, however, several thriving fields of tobacco.

Being told that we were entering Washington city, I continued looking for the houses for some little time; but seeing none, I thought I had misunderstood the gentleman who made the remark, and turning round for an explanation, he told me, laughing, that we were almost in the very middle of it, and asked if I did not see the Capitol a little before us. I did, indeed, see a stately edifice, but no other appearance of a city. Soon after this, the stage stopped, at Steele's hotel, nearly opposite the Capitol, where I took lodgings.

On walking out to the Capitol Hill, I had a fine view of the whole scite of the city, which is very large, extending a mile and a half in each direction north and south of the Capitol; to the east two miles; and to the west nearly two miles and a half. The buildings, though numerous, being scattered over this large space, give it more the appearance of a thickly-settled country than a city; and, very few of them extending in the direction we came, we had travelled a good way into the city before I saw it.

The view from the Capitol is really superb. The whole country round is handsomely settled, with elegant houses; and the view is terminated to the west, south-west, and north-west, with highlands. To the south, is the river Potomac, with Alexandria pleasantly situated on its banks. The navy-yard and shipping, and the barracks, are seen to the south-east and eastward; and to the west is the president's house, a stately edifice, about a mile distant; beyond which, handsomely situated on the brow of the hill, is Georgetown. The Pennsylvania avenue runs between the Capitol and the president's house, and being ornamented with trees and walks on each side, forms a very pleasing prospect. It is in this direction that the city is making greatest progress.

The evening was clear and pleasant, and the reflection of the setting sun added lustre to the scenery.

Washington, October 4. Having been furnished with a letter of introduction to a gentleman in the treasury office, I called this morning, when I was politely received, and got every information calculated to facilitate my inquiries. My friend carried me to the different departments in the office, which are all spacious and commodious; but this being a time at which there was no public business, there was little to be seen. From thence we went to the post-office, which has no great appearance exteriorly, but it seems to be very well arranged in the interior to answer the purpose for which it was designed. I was informed that both these departments were under excellent management.

I was then introduced by my friend to the gentleman who has the charge of the Capitol, and went with him to see that edifice. It is an elegant building of hewn stone, and consists of two wings and a portico in the middle. The north wing was quite complete, and the whole legislative business was transacted in it for the time. The senate-chamber occupies the ground floor, and is an elegant apartment, with handsome furniture; it is adorned with full length portraits of the late unfortunate king and queen of France. The house of representatives meet in an apartment up stairs, which, I was told, was ultimately destined for the library room. It was fitted up with commodious seats for the members, but no way ornamented. The only things in it which merited notice, were two very elegant views of the falls of Niagara. From thence we went to the south wing, where a great many workmen were employed; and I was told they were making great exertions to have it finished in time for the next congress. The apartment for the house of representatives is a large oval room, occupying nearly the whole building up stairs, and will, when finished, be very superb.

From the Capitol I went to see the barracks. They are large and convenient, and were garrisoned by 250 men, being a portion of the United States' army. I was informed that they were found in every thing, besides their pay of six dollars per month. This, however, does not bear a proportion to the wages of the other 19 0146 146 classes in America, who, on an average, may be found in every thing, and have twelve dollars per month. The consequence is, that the few military that are wanted will probably not be, generally speaking, equal in respectability to the other citizens. It is probable they will be composed of indolent men, who are not willing to labour, or of vicious men, who have become obnoxious to society. This should, if possible, be guarded against. No set of men should be more respectable than those to whom are committed the national defence; and measures should be devised to place them on a footing with their brethren in regard both to industry and pecuniary means. Would it not be wise in a nation to plan works of public utility, and employ a portion of the time of the military in executing them? This would not only improve the country, but would keep the men in active employment, and afford them wages equal to the other classes in society.

From the Barracks I went to the Navy-Yard, where I saw eight or ten frigates, the most of them undergoing repair. I went on board one, which, I was informed, was the Chesapeak. She carries 44 guns, and appears very large for that metal.

Having seen the most material places in Washington, I procured a horse, and took a ride to Georgetown, three miles distant from the Capitol. The view is very elegant the whole way, and, in the vicinity of Georgetown, there is a romantic chasm, in which there is a pretty large stream of water, called Rock Creek. Having passed this by a wooden bridge, I entered the town, which I found regularly laid out, and compactly built. It stands on the side of a hill, having a considerable descent to the river, of which it has a fine view. It contains about 300 houses, and 4,500 inhabitants. Most of the houses are built of brick, and some of them are elegant. The public buildings are five places for public worship, an academy, and a bank. It is a place of considerable trade, which, in consequence of the rapid settlement of the back country, is yearly increasing.

The River Potomac, which is nearly a mile broad opposite Washington, contracts here to less than a fourth of that distance; and it is proposed to build a bridge across it, which, if executed, will add much to the convenience of this part of the country.

This river merits particular notice, and I cannot any where introduce it with more propriety than here.

The Potomac rises from a spring on the north-west side of the 0147 147 Allegany mountains, and runs a north-east course of about 60 miles, to Cumberland, where it makes a bend, and, by a serpentine course, nearly south-east, runs about 18 miles, to where it receives the south-west branch. It then turns to the north-east, and runs a very serpentine course of about 45 miles, in which it receives a considerable number of tributary streams, to Hancock's Town. Here it makes another bend to the south-east, and 9 miles from thence it receives the waters of Licking Creek, and passes the North Mountain into a fine limestone valley, which it waters by a very winding course, and principally a south-east direction, for about 45 miles. In this valley it receives a considerable number of small streams, particularly the Conecocheague Creek, at Williamsport in the middle of the valley; and at the extremity it receives the waters of the Shenandoah from Virginia; and, by a singularly grand passage, issues through the Blue Mountain. It thence passes on, nearly in the same direction, about 30 miles, where, by two different falls, in the course of 8 or 10 miles, it descends above 140 feet to the level of tide-water, which it meets at Georgetown. The river now increases to about a mile broad, and, passing Alexandria and Mount Vernon, it runs a course a little to the west of south, to 35 miles below Alexandria, where it makes a great bend of nearly 15 miles to the north-east. It now gradually increases in breadth, and running 50 miles below this bend, flows into the Chesapeak Bay, by a passage about 10 miles broad. This is one of the most important of the Atlantic rivers, and, from its intersecting the country in a central situation, has excited great attention in the United States; more especially since Washington was fixed on as the seat of the general government. It is navigable for ships of any burden to Alexandria, a distance of about 100 miles, and about 180 from the Capes of Virginia; and from thence for vessels of considerable burden to Georgetown, at the head of tide-water. There is a lock navigation, constructed at great labour and expence, round the first falls. Considerable improvements have been made further up the river; and it is presumed, that, by following up these improvements, the river can be made fit for boat navigation to Cumberland, 180 miles above tide-water, the elevation being 700 feet above the level of the sea.

Connected with this important subject, I may here notice, that a road has been laid out, by order of congress, from Cumberland, across the mountains, to Brownsville on the Monongahela, a distance 0148 148 of 72 miles, on which the angle of ascent is no where greater than 5 degrees. From Brownsville there is an easy navigation to Pittsburg on the Ohio.

I returned from Georgetown to dine with my friend; and after dinner was introduced to a number of gentlemen of Washington, who vied with one another in showing me attention, and in giving me information.

Among others, I saw Mr. Smith, the editor of the National Intelligencer, a shrewd, sensible man; and, having a desire to be correctly informed of the measures of the general government during my stay in America, I ordered a copy of that paper to be sent to Savannah. I had frequently seen and admired it for its liberality of sentiment, and freedom from personal abuse; and, from the access which the editor must necessarily have to the best sources of information, I was satisfied that the intelligence contained in it might be generally relied on.

In the evening I was informed by my friends, that the president had unexpectedly arrived in the city, and I was advised to call upon him before I left it. I wished very much to have an opportunity of seeing the president; but I was informed at New York and Philadelphia, that he would not be at Washington until late in November, in consequence of Which, I was not furnished with a letter of introduction. But they informed me, that it was altogether unnecessary; Mr. Jefferson was a man of no ceremony, and I could introduce myself as a stranger, and would be attended to as such, and would see more of the president than I could in any other way.

This advice I resolved to follow, and the result of it shall be communicated in the next chapter.

Washington, October 5. In pursuance of the recommendation of my friends, I set out, this morning, at 8 o'clock, for the purpose of waiting on Mr. Jefferson. On my arrival at the president's house, I delivered my address to a servant, who in a few minutes returned with an answer, that Mr. Jefferson would be with me presently, and showed me into an elegant apartment. 0149 149 Mr. Jefferson soon entered by an inner door, and requesting me to be seated, sat down himself; and immediately, and very frankly, entered into conversation, by asking where I had landed, and how long I had been in the country. Having informed him, he remarked that I would probably be travelling to the northward; I replied that I had been to the north, and was now travelling to the southward. “And how do you like New York?” “Very much,” said I; “it is one of the finest sea-ports I have seen, and, I presume, will always continue to be the first commercial city in the United States.” He observed that he found that idea generally entertained by strangers; that New York was a very fine situation, and would unquestionably continue always to be a great commercial city: but it appeared to him that Norfolk would probably, in process of time, be the greatest sea-port in the United States, New Orleans perhaps excepted. He pointed out the circumstances of the vast confluence of waters, that constituted the outlet of the Chesapeak bay, on which Norfolk is situated, and remarked that these rivers were as yet but partially settled; but they were rapidly settling up, and, when the population was full, the quantity of surplus produce would be immense, and Norfolk would probably become the greatest depôt in the United States, except New Orleans.

The conversation next turned upon the climate and season; on which the president remarked, that the country had this summer been remarkably healthy; that no case of epidemical sickness had come to his knowledge, some few of bilious fever and fever and ague excepted, at the foot of the mountains on James' river, not far from where he lived; and which country was never known to experience any cases of the kind before. As this appeared singular, I inquired whether there was any way of accounting for it. He replied, that the way he accounted for it was this: “In ordinary seasons, there is a sufficiency of water to keep the rivers in a state of circulation, and no more; but this season there has been a long and severe drought, which, in many places, has dried them up. The water has stagnated in pools, and sends out a putrid effluvia to some distance; which, being lighter than the atmosphere, ascends even some little way up the mountains, and reaches the abodes of those who thought themselves heretofore free from attack.”

I was struck with the force of this remark, and applied it to a circumstance that had come under my observation at Washington. The Capitol Hill is elevated above the river upwards of 70 feet. 0150 150 Between this and the river there is a low meadow, about a mile broad, abounding with swamps and shrubbery. In the autumn these swamps send out an effluvia, which often affects the health of those who live on the hill. I noticed this circumstance, and the president remarked, that it was exactly in point. He said he had frequently observed from his windows, in the morning, the vapour to rise, and it seemed to have sufficient buoyancy to carry it to the top of the hill, and no further; there it settled, and the inhabitants coming out of their warm rooms, breathed this cold contaminated vapour, which brought on agues and other complaints. He said he had frequently pointed out this to the people, and urged them to drain the swamp, but it was still neglected, although they had, besides suffering in their health, probably expended more in doctor's bills than it would have cost. “But, indeed,” he continued, “mankind are exceedingly slow in adopting resolutions to prevent disease, and it is very difficult to convince them where they originate; particularly when the reasoning applied is the result of philosophical deduction.”

The transition from this subject to that of the yellow fever was natural, and I introduced it by noticing Paine's essay on the subject. The president observed, that it was one of the most sensible performances on that disease, that had come under his observation. The remarks were quite philosophical, and, not being calculated to excite any party feeling, they might have a very useful tendency. *

He then made a few remarks on the nature of the yellow fever itself. He observed, that it evidently arose from breathing impure air, and impure air may be either generated in the country or imported. A case had come under his observation where it was imported. A vessel arrived at Norfolk, and the air in her hold was so pestilential, that every person who went into it was affected, and some of them died; but, on the discovery being made, the vessel was purified, and the fever did not spread. This was a local circumstance, he observed, and there may be many others, which are pernicious as far as they go, and care should be taken to prevent them. But a ship can never import a sufficient 0151 151 quantity of impure air to pollute a whole city, if that city be otherwise healthy, and therefore the origin of the yellow fever, on an extended scale, must be sought for in an impure air, generated from filth collected in and about great cities; and it was very expedient that this view of the subject should be enforced, in order to induce mankind to attend to one of the most important concerns in life—cleanliness.

I took notice of the bad state of the road between Baltimore and Washington, and expressed my surprise that it should remain in this state, so near the capital of the United States. The president observed, that the removal of the seat of government was a recent measure, and the country was so extensive, that it would necessarily be a considerable time before good roads could be made in all directions, but as it was a most important subject, it would be attended to as fast as circumstances would permit; and the road to Baltimore, being the great thoroughfare to the northern states, would probably be one of the first that would undergo a thorough repair. He then informed me, that both this subject and that of internal navigation by canals, were under consideration at the present time, upon a very extended scale, and probably a report would soon be published relative to them; and he had little doubt, but that in less than 20 years turnpike roads would be general throughout the country; and a chain of canals would probably be cut, which would complete an inland navigation from Massachusetts to Georgia; and another to connect the eastern with the western waters.

I remarked that these would be most important improvements, and would greatly facilitate internal intercourse; and as to manufactures, I presumed it would long continue to be the policy of the country to import them. He replied, that this, like other branches, would of course find its level, and would depend upon the genius of the people; but it was astonishing, the progress that had been made in manufactures of late years. It would hardly be believed, he said, by strangers, but he had it on the best authority, that the manufactures of Philadelphia were greater in value annually, than were those of Birmingham 20 years ago; and he had no doubt but that manufactures of articles of the first necessity would increase until they became quite general through the country.

As the non-importation act was then in dependence, I was naturally anxious to ascertain, whether matters were likely to be 0152 152 adjusted with Britain, and, as modestly as possible, endeavoured to turn the conversation that way. I was urged to this by two considerations. I was not sure but that part of our fall importation would come under the operation of the non-importation act, if it took place; and being fully satisfied of the friendly disposition of the whig party in Britain towards America, I would gladly have availed myself of an opportunity of expressing that opinion to the president. But on this subject Mr. Jefferson was, of course, reserved; though, from the few observations he made, I concluded that matters would ultimately be amicably adjusted. I was highly gratified by the expression of his opinion, on the character of my great favourite statesman Mr. Fox. Accounts had that morning reached Washington, that Mr. Fox was in the last stage of his illness.—I noticed the circumstance. “Poor man,” said Mr. Jefferson, “I fear by this time he is no more, and his loss will be severely felt by his country: he is a man of the most liberal and enlightened policy—a friend to his country, and to the human race.”

A gentleman then called upon him, I believe general Eaton, and I took my leave, highly pleased with the affability, intelligence and good sense of the President of America.

This district is 10 miles square, and was ceded to the United States by the states of Virginia and Maryland; and in the year 1800 became the seat of the general government. It is in north latitude 38° 54′, and the American geographers have adopted it as the first meridian of longitude, which I have followed in my descriptions of the states, so as the reader may know at a glance how far, they are removed from the capital. The face of the country around it has been noticed: the soil appears poor and sandy: the climate is the same as the middle district of Maryland, and, judging from the countenances of the people, I should infer it is not very healthy: it is high and dry; but the whole flat country of Virginia and North Carolina lies to the south of it; and, when a south wind blows, it must waft a great deal of marsh effluvia along with it, of which the people in this district will receive a full share.

The district lies on both sides of the Potomac river, and is divided 0153 153 into two counties, one on each side. The population, when I was there, was supposed to be about 17,000, including those of Georgetown and Alexandria; and it was rapidly encreasing.

The general improvements in this district have been already noticed. Besides the settlements scattered over the district, it contains two principal towns, and the capital; of these, Georgetown has been already mentioned; and as I shall have occasion to notice Alexandria in a subsequent article, it only remains here to give a general account of the federal city.

WASHINGTON

Is situated in the centre of the district of Columbia, and is bounded on the south-east by the eastern branch of the Potomac river, to the south-west by the western branch, to the north-west by Rock creek, and to the north-east by the open country. Its extreme length from north-west to south-east is a little more than four miles and a half, and its medium breadth from north-east to south-west about two miles and a half, being nearly the dimensions of the city of London, including Westminster and Southwark.

An elegant plan of this city has been published, on which I counted 37 squares, 17 grand avenues, named after the different states, and 103 streets crossing one another at right angles, and running the whole length and breadth of the city. On this plan I find the following observations:

“The grand avenues, and such streets as lead immediately to public places, are from 130 to 160 feet wide, and may be conveniently divided into foot-ways, walks of trees, and a carriage-way. The other streets are from 90 to 110 feet wide.

“In order to execute this plan, Mr. Ellicott drew a true meridional line by celestial observation, which passes through the area intended for the capitol; this line he crossed by another, due east and west, which passes through the same area: these lines were accurately measured, and made the basis on which the whole plan was executed. He ran all the lines by a transit instrument, and determined the acute angles by actual measurement, and left nothing to the uncertainty of the compass.

“The positions for the different, edifices, and for the several squares or areas of different shapes, as they are laid down, were first determined on the most advantageous ground, commanding the most extensive prospects, and the better susceptible of such improvements as either use or ornament may hereafter call for. 20

“Lines or avenues of direct communication have been devised to connect the separate and most distant objects with the principal, and to preserve through the whole a reciprocity of sight at the same time. Attention has been paid to the passing of these leading avenues over the most favourable ground for prospect and convenience.

“North and south lines, intersected by others running due east and west, make the distribution of the city into streets, squares, &c.; and those lines have been so combined as to meet at certain given points with those divergent avenues, so as to form on the spaces first determined, the different squares or areas.”

There are three creeks delineated on the plan, above the city, on which I find the following observations:

“The perpendicular height of Tiber creek above the level of the tide in said creek, is 236 feet, 7 inches: the water of this creek may be conveyed on the high ground where the Capitol stands, and after watering that part of the city, may be destined to other useful purposes. The perpendicular height of the ground where the Capitol is to stand is above the tide of Tiber creek 78 feet.

“The perpendicular height of the west branch above the tide in Tiber creek, is 115 feet, 7 inches.

“The water of Reedy creek, and that of the Tiber, may be conveyed to the president's house.”

A most elegant plan indeed, and a very animated description. It only wants 40,000 elegant buildings, and a corresponding population, to constitute the American capital one of the handsomest cities in the world! However, it is to be recollected that every thing must have a beginning; and the time was when London was not.

The city now probably contains about 700 houses, and 5000 inhabitants: the buildings are all of brick, three stories high, and agreeable to a given plan; there are many scattering huts and wooden buildings throughout the district, but they are only temporary. The greater part of the public buildings have been already noticed: there are, besides, two or three churches, three market-houses, and a jail. The markets are tolerably well supplied with provisions; but every article is dear; the prices may be reckoned one-third higher than at Philadelphia,—a circumstance that will probably operate against the progress of population.

The principal manufactures are those calculated for domestic consumption, boots, shoes, hats, &c. There is a considerable retail trade; but very little of any other: the shipping trade is carried on at Alexandria, and the inland trade at Georgetown.

The inhabitants are a collection from all quarters of the union, and there are many foreigners among them: they are reputed to be orderly and correct in their morals, and have bent their attention very much to the subjects of education and internal improvement.

The district of Columbia, west of the Potomac, is subject to the laws of Virginia, and east of the river to those of Maryland; but the whole is under the special direction of the government of the United States, and the internal police is managed by a corporation, of which the president of the United States appoints the mayor: the other members are elected by the people.

There is a circuit court of the United States within the district, consisting of a chief judge and two assistants, and they hold four sessions annually.

A few general remarks shall close this chapter, and my account of the capital of the United States.

Having, in the course of my travels, heard a great many conflicting opinions about British influence and French influence, and federalism and democracy, and the supposed enmity of the American government to Britain and British trade, and of a partiality for the French and Bonaparte, I determined to take no share in the argument, but to hear all the evidence on both sides, as it came in my way, and to judge for myself.

The result of this judgment I shall now communicate.

I was satisfied, from all that I had seen and heard, that there is bona fide British influence in the country, of a very powerful nature, great in extent, and arising from very obvious causes: the principal of these are the identity of language, the similitude of manners and habits, and the extensive commerce between the United States and Britain. To prove the influence arising from these, it is unnecessary to go beyond my own person. I landed in America a stranger: I travelled through the country, associating every where freely with the people: I was uniformly received as a friend. I waited on the chief magistrate of America, altogether in an unpre-meditated manner: I sent up my address as “a native of Britain:” his conduct and conversation have been faithfully recorded in the preceding chapter, and the public can judge of it. Did it look like prejudice against Britain, or British people?—I say no.

In regard to French influence, it stands upon a footing exactly the reverse: the natives of France have a different language, and different manners and habits: when they arrive in this country 0156 156 they have a language to learn; they never can earn to speak it with the fluency of a native; and they have few ideas in common , so that there really is little whereon to ground a free interchange of sentiments and of friendship. Accordingly it is found that the French natives in the country are generally a quiet peaceable people, who associate mostly among themselves, and pay little or no attention to politics, or to public concerns. I cannot illustrate this subject better than by a quotation from M. Talleyrand. He had travelled extensively in the United states, and had paid very close attention to the manners of the people. He closes a series of observations with this sentiment: “In all my travels through the country, I never saw an Englishman that was not treated as a native; I never saw a Frenchman that was not treated as a stranger.”

Passing over mere party-bickerings, which I leave with a great deal of pleasure to the newspapers, I shall here remark that it appeared to me there was every disposition to have an amicable adjustment of all differences with Britain, and to cultivate a friendly intercourse to every extent that the natives mutually wished, or that their wants might call for; and as to partiality for Bonaparte and the French, it was my sincere opinion, very deliberately formed, that there was none. Hence, my opinion was strengthened as to the probability of a good understanding between the two countries; for I was satisfied of the friendly disposition of the British ministry. I knew they did not all view America in the same light, and I dreaded the loss of Mr. Fox; but while a Grenville, an Erskine, and a Grey remained in the cabinet, I was convinced that the valuable trade to the United States would not be sacrificed to a crooked policy, nor to gratify the avarice of a number of unprincipled speculators. I saw, indeed, a black cloud in the rere. A most powerful tory faction pressed upon the national councils, and almost brow-beat virtue out of countenance; and this faction was strong in the good-will of the court. But, to counterbalance this, the heir apparent, the prince of Wales, was with the whig party, and I hoped for the best.

In the afternoon I took my departure, in a ferry-boat, for Alexandria, which I reached at 6 o'clock.

Alexandria is situated on the west bank of the Potomac, in the south-east corner of the district of Columbia. It is laid out on the plan of Philadelphia, the streets crossing one another at right angles, and they are broad and airy. It contained, by the census 0157 157 of 1800, 4096 free inhabitants, and 875 slaves; the population has since greatly increased. The public buildings are a court-house and jail, a bank, and an episcopal church. I observed considerable shipping in the river, and learned that the inhabitants have a pretty extensive trade, principally in flour and tobacco.

The weather, during my stay in the district of Columbia, was clear and very warm; and from the observations I made, I was satisfied that there must be a material difference of climate between this place and Philadelphia, the great change happening somewhere near the Patapsco river, agreeably to the opinion of Volney.

On applying at the mail stage-office, I found there were 10 places engaged, so that it was with some difficulty I could get accommodated; but they agreed to squeeze me amongst the number; and I retired to bed, resolved to sleep as fast as possible, with a view of getting up at 4 o'clock in the morning, the hour at which I was told the stage would set out.

Monday, October 6th, 1806, at half past 4 o'clock, I took my place in the stage, and we left Alexandria a little before 5. We travelled by a pretty rough road, 17 miles, to Occoquhan creek, where we stopped for breakfast. Part of our journey being before day-light, I could only remark that the country appeared uneven, and the soil tolerably good.

After breakfast, the company began to get a little acquainted with each other, and to exchange sentiments. I mentioned before that we were 11 in number, and it will show the nature of travelling in this country, to mention the places of destination. Three of the passengers were going to Richmond, in Virginia, 126 miles distant; two were going to Columbia, in south Carolina, distant 511 miles; one to Augusta, in Georgia, distant 596 miles; one to Fayetteville, North Carolina, 351 miles; three to different places in the interior of the country; and I was going to Savannah, in Georgia, distant 653 miles.

As we constituted a little republic, and several of us were to be many days together, we proceeded to elect office-bearers. The gentleman from Fayetteville was chosen president; the company 0158 158 conferred on me the honour of being vice-president; and thus organized we proceeded to the “order of the day.”

Our president, who was called captain, by which title I shall hereafter denominate him, was an excellent travelling companion. He sung a good song; told a good story; and was, withal, very facetious, and abounded in mirth, humour, and jollity.

He had not long taken the chair, when, with the permission of the company, he sung a humorous song, which put us all in good spirits. He then proposed that each man in his turn should, when called on by the president, sing a song, tell a story, or pay five cents; which being unanimously agreed to, was immediately carried into execution, and called forth a wonderful degree of merriment and good humour. I found myself a little at a loss, as I did not wish to part with my cents, and I had nothing but Scots stories and Scots songs; but I soon found that these were highly satisfactory, and that the name of Robert Burns was as well known, and as highly esteemed in Virginia, as in Ayrshire.

Our captain was both a son of Neptune and a son of Mars; and could adapt the technical language of these professions to the different movements of the stage, with remarkable facility. When the coach heeled to one side, he would call out “To the right and left, and cover your flanks—whiz;” and when we passed a stream by a ford, he would sing out, “by the deep nine,” accompanied with all the attitudes of heaving the lead. The day was clear, pleasant, and healthy; and in this strain of merriment and good humour, we prosecuted our journey much to our satisfaction.

From where we breakfasted, we travelled through a hilly country, and but partially cultivated, to Dumfries, a small town containing about 300 inhabitants, court-house, jail, &c.; and from thence we passed on through a hilly country, but more improved, to Fredericksburg, 25 miles, where we stopped for the night.

Fredericksburg is situated on the south-west side of Rappahannoc river. It is regularly laid out, the streets crossing one another at right angles, and consists of about 300 houses, containing about 1600 inhabitants. The principal public buildings are an episcopal church, an academy, court-house, and jail. It carries on a considerable trade, principally in flour and tobacco.

The Rappahannock river rises in the Blue Mountains, by two considerable streams, called Rapid Ann river and Hedgeman 0159 159 river; which unite about 12 miles above this place, and, running a south-east course, falls into the Chesapeak bay about 90 miles below Fredericksburg, where it is about three miles broad. It is navigable to Fredericksburg, where it has two fathoms water. *

On Tuesday, the 7th October, we started from Fredericksburg, at 1 o'clock in the morning, and travelled through an uneven country, and pretty well cultivated, to Bowling-Green, 22 miles; and a few miles further, we passed Mattapony river. This river rises about 20 miles above where we crossed it, and runs a south-east course, about 80 miles, when it joins the Pamunky river, and forms York river. It is navigable to Downer's bridge, 70 miles above its mouth. † About 15 miles from this river, we travelled through a country nearly similar to that described, but the soil rather sandy, to Pamunky river. This river is formed by the north and south Anna rivers, which rise in the north-west, about 50 or 60 miles distant, and form a junction about 15 miles above where we crossed. From thence it holds a south-east course, but with many windings, about 50 miles, when it forms the junction with Mattapony river aforesaid. It is navigable for boats about 40 miles above where we crossed it. York river is composed of these two rivers, and widening to a considerable extent, it passes into the Chesapeak bay, by a channel of about three miles. Yorktown is situated 12 miles up this river, and is the best harbour in the state for vessels of the largest size. “The river narrows to the width of a mile at York, and is contained within very high banks, close under which vessels may ride. It holds four fathoms water at high tide for 25 miles above York, where the river is a mile and a half wide, and the channel only 75 fathoms. At the confluence of the Pamunky and Mattapony it is reduced to three fathoms deep.” ‡ York is remarkable as being the place where the contest with Britain was decided by the capture of lord Cornwallis.

After crossing this river we passed Hanover court-house, and the road proceeds through a country nearly similar to that already described, 24 miles, to Richmond, the capital of Virginia, which we reached to dinner. In our way we passed Falling creek, a branch of James river, after which the country improves, and is handsomely settled. The day was very clear, and we had at one place a view of the South-west mountains.

Richmond is handsomely situated on James river, immediately below the falls. It is a large elegant city, consisting of more than 1000 houses, and contains about 8000 inhabitants. * The state-house stands on an eminence, and is considered the handsomest building in the state, having spacious apartments for the meeting of the legislature, and commodious rooms for the transaction of the public business of the state. The other public buildings are the court-house, jail, and theatre, two places for public worship, a freemason's hall, and three tobacco warehouses. Richmond is situated in a fertile healthy country, and is well supplied with provisions; and it is flourishing in manufactures and commerce. There is an armoury in the neighbourhood, said to be the best in the United States. The city is remarkably well situated for mill-seats; some of the finest flour-mills in the state have lately been erected, and the quantity of flour manufactured annually is immense. There are also rolling and slitting-mills, oil-mills, and several others; and several extensive distilleries and breweries. Richmond carries on a considerable trade, principally in tobacco and flour, with many places of the United States, particularly New York, which in return supplies it with dry goods and groceries. The inhabitants here, like those in the sea-ports, are mostly dressed in British manufactures, and are very gay. They look remarkably well, and the ladies, of whom we only had a glance as we passed through the city, appeared very handsome.

Some nails in my portmanteau having given way, I carried it to a saddler to get it repaired; and on my return to the tavern, I found a native of Perth, to whom I had sent a message, waiting for me; and what with conversation about the place of our nativity, the importunity of the stage-driver, and the humour of our merry captain, I was almost short shipt of a dinner. Having finished my repast as rapidly as I could, I took my place in the stage, and we set out for Petersburg.

Several of the passengers had left us at Richmond; but as we took up two or three gentlemen who were returning from a horse-race, the stage was still full; and we continued our regulations, which our new members assented to with great cordiality.

On leaving the city, we passed James River by a long wooden bridge, at which each of the passengers had to pay toll, a circumstance 0161 161 I never saw before, it being common to lay the toll on the carriage only. The scenery at this place was very beautiful.

James River is one of the most important in the state of Virginia. It rises near the Allegany Mountains, nearly 200 miles west from Richmond, and pursuing a course to the eastward, runs through all the other chains, passes Richmond, and receives the waters of the Appomatox about 25 miles below that city. From thence it exhibits a curious appearance, widening and contracting alernately, and, by a crooked passage of about 70 miles, falls into Chesapeak Bay, 15 miles to the westward of Cape Henry; its whole length, including its windings, being upwards of 300 miles. The principal tributary streams to this river are the Rivannah, on which is Monticello, the seat of president Jefferson, the Appomattox, the Chickahomany, the Nansemond, and the Elizabeth, on which last is Norfolk. “The whole of Elizabeth River is a harbour, and would contain upwards of 300 ships. The channel is from 150 to 200 fathom wide, and, at flood tide, affords 18 feet water to Norfolk. The Nansemond is navigable to Sleepy Hole for vessels of 250 tons; to Suffolk for those of 100 tons; and to Milner's for those of 25. Chickahomany has at its mouth a bar, on which is only 12 feet water at common flood tide. Vessels passing that, may go 80 miles up the river; those of 10 feet water may go 4 miles further; and those of 6 tons burden 20 miles further. The Rivannah is navigable for canoes and batteaux 22 miles, to the South-west Mountains, and may be easily opened to navigation through these mountains to its fork above Charlottesville.” *

“James River itself affords harbour for vessels of any size in Hampton Road, but not in safety through the winter; and there is navigable water for them as far as Mulberry Island. A 40 gun ship goes to Jamestown, and, lightening herself, may pass to Harrison's Bar, on which there is only 15 feet water. Vessels of 250 tons may go to Warwick; those of 125 go to Rocket's, a mile below Richmond; from thence is about 7 feet water to Richmond; and about the centre of the town, 4½ feet, where the navigation is interrupted by falls, which, in a course of 6 miles, descend about 80 feet perpendicular. Above these, it is resumed in canoes and batteaux, and is prosecuted safely to within 10 miles of the Blue Ridge; and even through the Ridge a ton 21 0162 162 weight has been brought; and the expence would not be great, when compared with its objects, to open a tolerable navigation up Jackson's River and Carpenter's Creek, to within 25 miles of Howard's Creek of Greenbriar, both of which have then water enough to float vessels into the Great Kanhaway. In some future state of population, I think it possible that its navigation may also be made to interlock with that of the Potomae, and, through that, to communicate by a short portage with the Ohio.” *

A company has been incorporated by the state for improving the navigation of this river with a capital of 140,000 dollars, of which the state owns 50,000; and they are bound by the charter to remove all obstructions, so as there may never be less than 12 inches of water over all the shoals from the upper end of the lower falls to Pattonborough, in the middle of the mountains, and distant from Richmond upwards of 200 miles. The company have prosecuted the business with a laudable zeal, and have expended upwards of 200,000 dollars upon it. A canal is drawn from the river at the upper end of the falls, and proceeds 200 yards, when it is lowered 34 feet, by 3 locks, and again enters the river. From thence the navigation is perfect for 3 miles, when another canal commences, and runs 3½ miles to a basin at Richmond, where the navigation terminates. It was contemplated by the charter to continue the canal to the tide water, but the plan is for the present suspended.

The basin is a mile and a half from the port of Richmond, and is 80 feet above tide-water. From the upper end of the great falls to the basin the distance is 6½ miles, and the descent 48 feet; making in all 128 feet descent in 8 miles.

The navigation of the river from above the falls to its extremity among the mountains, is considered better than that of any of the other Atlantic rivers; and it may be observed that coal is found here in great abundance, a circumstance which occurs no where else in the vicinity of tide water, in the United States.

From Richmond we travelled 25 miles to Petersburg, where we stopped for the night. The country I could see but partially, as we passed a considerable part of it in the dark. We crossed several small streams in our way, and near Petersburg the Appomattox river before alluded to.

This river rises near the mountains, and is in length upwards 0163 163 of 100 miles to its junction with James river. “It may be navigated as far as Broadway's by any vessel which has crossed Harrison's bar, on James river. It keeps eight or ten feet water a mile or two higher up to Fisher's bar, and four feet on that, and upwards, where all navigation ceases.” *

Petersburg is situated on the aforesaid river, immediately below the falls, and is a place of considerable wealth and importance, carrying on a great trade in tobacco and flour, a considerable portion of which is with New York. The population, in 1800, was 2034 free people, and 1481 slaves. The population is said to be composed principally of Irish people, and they are distinguished for frank liberal manners, and high-spirited patriotism.

The principal public buildings are, two places for public worship, a court-house, jail, and freemason's hall.

The market is well supplied with provisions; and there are numerous mills in and about the town.

It was past 11 o'clock at night before we arrived, and we learned that the stage was to set out at one o'clock next morning. We considered it therefore entirely useless to go to bed, and the captain carried me to see some gentlemen of his acquaintance. There were six or eight of them, all agreeable young men, most of them Irishmen; and the captain, being intimately acquainted with them, was welcomed with much affection, and I was cordially taken by the hand as his friend, for whom he was pleased to express a particular regard. They had a violin in the room, which was immediately adjusted to the tune of the Thistle and the Shamrock , † and we had a most harmonious concert of jigs and strathspeys , while Yankee Doodle was not forgotten. The song, the sentiment, and the toast followed. “An age could not have made us better acquainted,” and we united in opinion, that there was no country on the face of the earth like this, where people of all nations, kindreds, tongues, and languages, could with such happy facility meet and harmonize in the spirit of unity, and in the bond of peace. “But pleasures are like poppies spread.” We were in the full exercise and enjoyment of these sentiments when we were called away to take our places in the stage, and I left this little liberal circle with sentiments of friendly regard.

October 8, at one o'clock, we left Petersburg. At this early 0164 164 hour we could see nothing, but we felt that the country was hilly, and the road very rough. By the time the day dawned upon us we had travelled about 20 miles, and the country appeared pretty fertile; we saw many flourishing fields of tobacco, but, in consequence of the long and severe drought, the country exhibited a parched appearance.

At 33 miles from Petersburg we passed Nottaway river, by a wooden bridge. This river rises about 50 miles above where we crossed it, and running a south-east course, above 100 miles, it forms a junction with the Meherrin river, in North Carolina, and, through the medium of the Chowan river, falls into Albemarle sound.

At 37 miles from the Nottaway river we crossed the Meherrin. The latter part of the distance, the country was much improved, and the road good. We now occasionally saw some crops of cotton, but the principal produce was tobacco and corn. The Meherrin river rises about 60 miles above where we crossed it, and running 60 miles more, in a south-east direction, it forms a junction with the Nottaway, before mentioned.

About 12 miles beyond this last mentioned river, we passed the North Carolina line, and here I pause to take a view of the great and important state of Virginnia.

Before I proceed to give a general account of this state, I may notice, that a most important service has been rendered to its geography, by the publication of the Notes of Mr. Jefferson; a work replete with valuable information, and exhibiting in every page the marks of a vigorous intellect and a philosophic mind. This work may be justly considered as the basis of the geography of the state of Virginia; and though, from the progressive nature of the subject, it does not now contain the necessary information, on some points, yet the traveller in this state will find it a most valuable companion; and by giving it a careful perusal, will be amply rewarded for his trouble.

“The Notes were written in the year 1781, and somewhat 0165 165 corrected and enlarged in 1782, in answer to queries proposed to the author, by a foreigner of distinction (M. de Marbois, secretary of the French legation,) then residing in America.” The work is arranged on the following plan.

With three numbers of an Appendix.

It is from this valuable work that the facts exhibited in the following short sketch are chiefly taken; and wherever the brevity of the subject would admit, I have given them in Mr. Jefferson's own elegant language, although I have adhered to my original arrangement of the various subjects. It may be observed here, that since Mr. Jefferson's Notes were compiled, Kentucky has been formed into a separate state, which makes a material alteration in the dimensions of the state of Virginia.

Virginia is situated between 36° 30′ and 39° 43′ north latitude, and 1° east, and 6° 25′ west longitude. The extreme length of the state from east to west is 442 miles, and the extreme breadth from the North Carolina line to the Pennsylvania line is 235; but it may be observed that there is a small part of the state that stretches along the banks of the Ohio, to the west of Pennsylvania, about 60 miles long, and on an average 10 broad; and there is another small part, about 55 miles long and 12 broad, to the east of the Chesapeak. The area is computed at 70,500 square miles, being nearly as large as the whole island of Britain, computed at 77,243. The number of acres in Virginia is 45,120,000.

The face of the country is somewhat assimilated to Pennsylvania, including Jersey, Delaware, and Maryland. The eastern part extends along the sea coast about 115 miles, of which the outlet 0166 166 of the Chesapeak, already noticed, occupies 20; and this elegant confluence of waters, so often referred to, forms a great variety in this part of the state. From the sea coast to the head of the tide waters, about 100 miles, the country is mostly level, and abounds with swamps. From thence to the mountains it is agreeably uneven, and affords delightful prospects. The mountainous district is about 100 miles in breadth, and the ridges continue, as in Pennsylvania, to range from north-east to south-west. Beyond the mountains the country is much variegated—here swelling out into considerable hills,—there subsiding into agreeable valleys; and so continues to the Ohio, about 60 miles. The Allegany chain is the ridge which divides the waters of the Atlantic from the Mississippi, and its summit is more elevated above the ocean than that of the others: but its relative height, compared with the base on which it stands, is not so great, because the country rises behind the successive ridges like steps of stairs. The most elevated point does not exceed 4000 feet, and few amount to more than 2500.

The whole of the Atlantic rivers have been already noticed; the others are but few. The state is watered to the westward by the Ohio upwards of 240 miles, and the Great Sandy river forms the boundary, for upwards of 100 miles, between it and Kentucky. The most important river, to the westward, is the Great Kanhaway, “a river of considerable note for the fertility of its lands, and still more, as leading towards the head waters of James river. Nevertheless, it is doubtful whether its great and numerous falls will admit a navigation but at an expence to which it will require ages to render its inhabitants equal. The great obstacles begin at what are called the great falls, 90 miles above its mouth, below which are only 5 or 6 rapids, and these passable, with some difficulty, even at low water. From the falls to the mouth of Greenbriar is 100 miles, and thence to the lead mines 120. It is 280 yards wide at its mouth.” *

“The little Kanhaway is 150 yards wide at the mouth, and is navigable for 10 miles only.” †

The Shenandoah river rises in the interior of the country, and running a north-east course, of about 250 miles, through the great Limestone valley, parallel to the mountains, falls into the

† Ibid.

“The first glance of this scene hurries our senses into the opinion that this earth has been created in time; that the mountains were formed first; that the rivers began to flow afterwards; that, in this place particularly, they have been dammed up by the Blue Ridge of mountains, and have formed an ocean which filled the whole valley; that continuing to rise, they have at length broken over at this spot, and have torn the mountain down from its summit to its base. The piles of rock on each hand, but particularly on the Shenandoah, the evident marks of their disrupture and avulsion from their beds by the most powerful agents of nature, corroborate the impression.—But the distant finishing which nature has given to the picture is of a very different character.—It is a true contrast to the foreground.—It is as placid and delightful as that is wild and tremendous.—For the mountain being cloven asunder, she presents to your eye, through the cleft, a small catch of smooth blue horizon, at an infinite distance in the plain country, inviting you, as it were, from the riot and tumult roaring around, to pass through the breach, and participate of the calm below. Here the eye ultimately composes itself; and that way the road happens actually to lead.—You cross the Potomac above the junction, pass along its side through the base of the mountain for three miles, its terrible precipices hanging in fragments over you, and within about 20 miles reach Fredericktown, and the fine country around it. This scene is worth a voyage across the Atlantic; yet there are people who have spent their whole lives within half a dozen of miles, and have never been to survey these monuments of a war between rivers and mountains, which must have shaken the earth itself to its centre.*”

“The only remarkable cascade in this country is that of the falling Jefferson's Notes. 0168 168 springs in Augusta: it is a water of James river, where it is called Jackson's river, rising in the warm spring, and flowing into that valley. About three quarters of a mile from its source it falls over a rock 200 feet, into the valley below. The sheet of water is broken in its breadth by the rock, in two or three places, but not at all in its height. Between the sheet and the rock at the bottom you may walk across dry.” *

In the limestone country there are many caverns of very considerable extent. “The most noted is called Madison's cave, and is on the north side of the Blue Ridge, near the intersection of the Rockingham and Augusta line with the south fork of the southern river of Shenandoah. It is in a hill of about 200 feet perpendicular height, the ascent of which, on one side, is so steep that you may pitch a biscuit from its summit into the river which washes its base. The entrance of the cave is, in this side, about two-thirds of the way up. It extends into the earth about 300 feet, branching into subordinate caverns, sometimes ascending a little, but more generally descending, and at length terminates, in two different places, at basins of water of unknown extent, and which I should judge to be nearly on a level with the water of the river.” “The vault of this cave is of solid limestone, from 20 to 40 or 50 feet high, through which the water is continually percolating. This trickling down the sides of the cave has incrusted them over in the form of elegant drapery; and dripping from the top of the vault, generates on that and on the base below, stalactites of a conical form, some of which have met, and formed massive columns.” †

Another of these caves is near the North Mountain in Frederick county. “The entrance into this is on the top of an extensive ridge. You descend 30 or 40 feet, as into a well, from whence the cave then extends, nearly horizontally, 400 feet into the earth, preserving a breadth of from 20 to 50 feet, and height of from 5 to 12 feet. After entering this cave a few feet, the mercury, which was in the open air at 50°, rose to 57°.” ‡

“At the Panther gap, in the ridge which divides the waters of the Cow and Calf Pasture, is what is called the Blowing cave. It is in the side of a hill, is of about 100 feet diameter, and emits constantly a current of air of such force as to keep the weeds prostrate for 20 yards before it. It is strongest in dry frosty weather, and 0169 169 weakest in long spells of rain.” * “There is another blowing cave in the Cumberland mountain, about a mile from the Carolina line.” †

The Natural Bridge, in this state, is one of the most sublime of nature's works. “It is on the ascent of a hill, which seems to have been cloven through its length by some great convulsion. The fissure, just at the bridge, is, by some admeasurements, 270 feet deep, by others only 205. It is about 45 feet wide at the bottom, and 90 at the top; this of course determines the length of the bridge, and its height from the water. Its breadth in the middle, is about 60 feet, but more at the ends; and the thickness of the mass, at the summit of the arch, about 40 feet. A part of this thickness is constituted by a coat of earth, which gives growth to many large trees. The residue, with the hill on both sides, is one solid rock of limestone. The arch approaches the semi-elliptical form, but the larger axis of the ellipsis, which would be the chord of the arch, is many times longer than the transverse. Though the sides of this bridge are provided in some parts with a parapet of fixed rocks, yet few men have resolution to walk to them, and look over into the abyss. You involuntarily fall on your hands and your feet, creep to the parapet and peep over it. Looking down from this height about a minute, gave me a violent head-ach. If the view from the top be painful and intolerable, that from below is delightful in an equal extreme. It is impossible for the emotions arising from the sublime, to be felt beyond what they are here: so beautiful an arch, so elevated, so light, and springing, as it were, up to heaven! the rapture of the spectator is really indescribable. The fissure continuing narrow, deep, and straight for a considerable distance above and below the bridge, opens a short but very pleasing view of the North Mountain on one side, and Blue Ridge on the other, at the distance each of them of about five miles. This bridge is in the county of Rockbridge, to which it has given name, and affords a public and very commodious passage over a valley which cannot be crossed elsewhere for a considerable distance. The stream passing under it is called Cedar creek. It is a water of James' river, and sufficient in the driest seasons to turn a grist-mill, though its fountain is not more than two miles above.” ‡

There are a great variety of minerals and mineral springs in the state. Iron is very plenty, and several mines of lead have been

‡ Ib.

The soil in the low part of the state is sandy, except on the banks of the rivers, where it is very rich. Between the head of the tide-waters and the mountains, it exhibits a great variety, and a considerable portion is good. Among the mountains there is a great deal of poor land, but it is interspersed with rich valleys. Beyond the mountains the soil is generally rich and fertile.

The climate of Virginia is very various, and is subject to great and sudden changes. In the greater part of the country below the head of the tide-waters, the summers are hot and sultry, and the winters mild. From thence to the foot of the mountains the air is more pure and elastic, and both summers and winters are several degrees of temperature below the low country. Among the mountains, the summers are delightful, though sometimes the heat is very great. To the westward the climate is temperate, the summers being cooler and the winters warmer than on the sea coast. Except in the neighbourhood of stagnant waters, in the low country, Virginia has, upon the whole, a healthy climate.

The first permanent settlement of Virginia was by the English, in 1610. In 1613, a Mr. Rolf married Pocahontas, the daughter of Powhatan, an Indian chief, and the connexion was the foundation for a friendly commerce between the English settlers and the Indians. In 1616 the culture of tobacco became general. The same year Mr. Rolf and his wife Pocahontas visited England, where she was introduced at court, and treated with great respect. She died the year following at Gravesend, and left a son, whose descendants still survive in Virginia. In 1618 the colony amounted to upwards of 60,000 people. In 1784 Virginia appointed seven delegates to the first congress, and took a decisive part in the war for independence. The state constitution was framed in 1776, and was the first in the United States. Virginia now sends 2 senators and 22 representatives to congress.

The state is divided into an eastern and western district, and 90 counties. In 1800 it contained a population of 540,353 free persons, and 345,796 slaves, in all 886,149; being upwards of 12 to the square mile.

There are no towns of any material consequence in Virginia, which has been attributed, and probably with reason, to the circumstance of the state being so completely intersected with navigable rivers, that a market is brought almost to every man's door, and they have no inducement to establish large cities.

Norfolk is the largest town, and the most commercial in the state. It contained, by the census of 1800, nearly 7000 inhabitants, which have since greatly encreased. * It is a place of very extended commerce, principally in flour and tobacco, and its commerce and population will probably continue to encrease for a long period. Mr. Jefferson remarks, in his Notes, “that it will probably be the emporium for all the trade of the Chesapeak bay and its waters, and a canal of 8 or 10 miles will bring to it all that of the Albemarle sound and its waters.” The same sentiment was expressed in conversation with me. But it is to be observed, that the Chesapeak bay and its waters are navigable a long way into the interior of the country, in consequence of which, probably no single town or city will be the emporium for all the trade; it will be divided among many. We accordingly find numerous towns upon those waters, many of which have already been noticed; and the following may be added.

On Rappahannoc, Urbanna, Port Royal, Falmouth.

On Potomac and its waters, Dumfries, Colchester, Winchester, Staunton.

On York river and its waters, York, Newcastle, Hanover.

On James river and its waters, Portsmouth, Hampton, Suffolk, Smithfield, Williamsburg, Manchester, Charlottesville.

There is no very important town in the western part of the state. Wheeling, on the Ohio, will probably increase more than any other.

The state has of late been considerably improved by roads, but in that branch much yet remains to be done. The canal contemplated by Mr. Jefferson between the waters of the Chesapeak and Albemarle sound has been cut. It is 16 miles in length, and answers a most valuable purpose. Considerable improvements have been made upon the navigation of the Shenandoah river; and there are several very important roads and canals projected. As to the buildings, Mr. Jefferson remarks, “The genius of architecture seems to have shed its maledictions over this land. Buildings are often erected by individuals at considerable expence. To give these symmetry and taste would not increase their cost. It would only change the arrangement of the materials, and form the combination of the members. This would often cost less than the burden of barbarous ornaments with which these buildings are sometimes charged. But the first principles of the art are unknown, and there exists scarcely a model among us sufficiently chaste to give an idea of them. Architecture being one of the fine arts, and, as such, within the department of a professor of the college, according to the new arrangement, perhaps a spark may fall on some young subjects of natural taste, kindle up their genius, and produce a reformation in this elegant and useful art.” Great improvements have doubtless been made since the year 1782, particularly in the towns; but in the country the houses are mostly composed of wood, and few of them that I saw had either symmetry of design, or elegance of execution to recommend them. Upon the whole, on this branch, the Virginians seem to be far behind their northern neighbours, and there is still much room for the exercise of architectural genius.

The great mass of the population in Virginia are farmers, or, as they are termed here, planters. The principal branches of agriculture for exportation, are wheat and tobacco; and the farms produce in plenty, Indian corn, rye, barley, buck-wheat, &c. 0173 173 Hemp and flax are abundant, and considerable quantities of cotton are raised in the southern part of the state. Indigo is cultivated with success, and the silk-worm is a native of the country, though not much attended to. The fields likewise produce potatoes, both sweet and common, turnips, parsnips, carrots, pumpkins, and ground nuts; and of grasses, there are clovers, red, white, and yellow, timothy, ray, greensward, blue grass, and crab grass.

The orchards abound in fruit; apples, pears, peaches, quinces, cherries, nectarines, apricots, almonds, and plums.

The domestic animals thrive well, horses, cows, sheep, hogs, poultry; and there is a great variety of wild game.

The manufactures of the state are mostly of the domestic kind. I have not heard of any established upon a large scale. Hence the quantity imported annually from Britain must be immense. The principal port in the state being Norfolk, it carries on a vigorous trade with Europe, in the surplus produce of the state, and imports largely of dry goods; but a great portion of the trade of the state is carried on through the medium of other places, particularly New York.

The exports of the state, in 1805, amounted to 5,606,620 dollars, of which the greater part was domestic produce; but as no part of the produce sent to other states is included in the custom-house returns, I should be inclined to estimate the surplus produce at nearly double that amount, and their imports, principally of manufactures, at nearly as much, of which probably one half is from Britain.

The Notes on Virginia contain ample information on the state of society. Mr. Jefferson considers that it is materially affected by the existence of slavery. “There must doubtless,” says he, “be an unhappy influence on the manners of our people by the existence of slavery among us. The whole commerce between master and slave is a perpetual exercise of the most boisterous passions, the most unremitting despotism on the one part, and degrading submissions on the other. Our children see this, and learn to imitate it; for man is an imitative animal. This quality is the germ of all education in him: from his cradle to his grave, he is learning to do what he sees others do. If a parent could find no motive, either in his philanthrophy or his self-love, for restraining the intemperance of passion towards his slave, it should always be a sufficient one that his child is present. But generally it is not sufficient. The parent storms, the child looks 0174 174 on, catches the lineaments of wrath, puts on the same airs in the circle of smaller slaves, gives a loose to the worst of passions, and thus nursed, educated, and exercised in tyranny, cannot but be stamped by it with odious peculiarities. The man must be a prodigy who can retain his manners and morals undepraved by such circumstances. And with what execration should the statesman be loaded, who, permitting one half of the citizens thus to trample on the rights of the other, transforms those into despots, and these into enemies, destroys the morals of the one part, and the amor patriœ of the other. For if a slave can have a country in this world, it must be any other in preference to that in which he is born to live and labour for another; in which he must lock up the faculties of his nature, contribute as far as depends on his individual endeavours to the enslavement of the human race, or entail his own miserable condition on the endless generations proceeding from him. With the morals of the people their industry also is destroyed. For, in a warm climate, no man will labour for himself who can make another labour for him. This is so true, that of the proprietors of slaves a very small proportion indeed are ever seen to labour. And can the liberties of a nation be thought secure when we have removed their only firm basis, a conviction in the minds of the people that these liberties are the gift of God? that they are not to be violated but with his wrath? Indeed I tremble for my country when I reflect that God is just; that his justice cannot sleep for ever; that considering numbers, nature, and natural means only, a revolution of the wheel of fortune, and exchange of situation, is among possible events; that it may become probable by supernatural interference! The Almighty has no attribute that can take side with us in such a contest.—But it is impossible to be temperate, and to pursue this subject through the various considerations of policy, of morals, of history natural and civil. We must be contented to hope they will force their way into every one's mind. I think a change already perceptible, since the origin of the present revolution. The spirit of the master is abating; that of the slave rising from the dust, his condition mollifying, the way, I hope, preparing, under the auspices of Heaven, for a total emancipation; and that this is disposed, in the order of events, to be with the consent of the masters, rather than by their extirpation.”

This elegant extract, which I could not think of abridging, 0175 175 does honour to the head and heart of its author; and it is probable, from the great reputation which he holds among his countrymen, that it may have produced a considerable effect in assuaging the evils of slavery. Virginia has long since prohibited the importation of slaves, and has by her members in congress, always supported the question for a total prohibition of that branch, the most odious feature in it. And it is but justice here to observe, that the introduction of slavery in this, and in the other states, was a part of the policy of the COLONIAL SYSTEM. Had it not unfortunately taken place before the revolution, it is probable it never would have taken place; for almost every person, with whom I have conversed on the subject, have expressed their opinion, that it is not only hurtful to public morals, but contrary to every maxim of sound policy. But it exists; it is incorporated with the whole sytem of civil society; its influence has extended through every branch of domestic economy; and to do it away must be a work of time.

There are two colleges in the state; one of them the college of William and Mary, very liberally endowed. There are several academics, and schools in each county; and there are numerous teachers in private families, as tutors. The means, in short, for educating the wealthy are ample, and extensively applied; but the sytem seems to be defective, so far as the mass of the people are concerned, and that important branch deserves the early attention of an enlightened legislature.

At the period of the revolution, Virginia being the first state that drew up a new constitution, it was necessarily crude and undigested; and much of the old leaven remained. The subject of religion, in particular, was not placed on that footing of perfect freedom which is the natural heritage of man, the gift of nature's God; and the subject affords Mr. Jefferson scope for the following remarks: “By our act of assembly of 1705, c. 30, if a person, brought up in the Christian religion, denies the being of a God, or the Trinity, or asserts there are more Gods than one, or denies the christian religion to be true, or the Scriptures to be of divine authority, he is punishable for the first offence by incapacity to hold any office or employment, ecclesiastical, civil, or military; on the second, by disability to sue, to take any gift or legacy, to be guardian , executor, or administrator, and by three years imprisonment without bail. A father's right to the custody of 0176 176 his own children being founded, in law, on his right of guardianship , this being taken away, they may, of course, be severed from him, and put, by the authority of a court, into more orthodox hands. This is a summary view of that religious slavery, under which a people have been willing to remain, who have lavished their lives and fortunes for the establishment of civil freedom. The error seems not sufficiently eradicated, that the operations of the mind, as well as the acts of the body, are subject to the coercion of the laws. But our rulers can have authority over such natural rights only as we have submitted to them. The rights of conscience we never submitted, we could not submit. We are answerable for them to our God. The legitimate powers of government extend to such acts only as are injurious to others. But it does me no injustice for my neighbour to say, there are twenty Gods, or no God. It neither picks my pocket, nor breaks my leg. If it be said, his testimony in a court of justice cannot be relied on, reject it then, and be the stigma on him. Constraint may make him worse, by making him a hypocrite; but it will never make him a truer man. It may fix him obstinately in his errors, but will not cure them. Reason and free inquiry are the only effectual agents against error. Give a loose to them, they will support the true religion, by bringing every false one to their tribunal, to the test of investigation. They are the natural enemies of error, and of error only. Had not the Roman government permitted free inquiry, christianity could never have been introduced. Had not free inquiry been indulged at the era of the reformation, the corruptions of christianity could not have been purged away. If it be restrained now, the present corruptions will be protected, and new ones encouraged. Was the government to prescribe to us our medicine and diet, our bodies would be in such keeping as our souls are now. Thus, in France, the emetic was once forbidden as a medicine, and the potatoe as an article of food. Government is just as infallible, too, when it fixes systems in physics. Galileo was sent to the inquisition for affirming, that the earth was a sphere. The government had declared it to be as flat as a trencher, and Galileo was obliged to abjure his error. This error, however, at length prevailed; the earth became a globe; and Descartes declared, it whirled round its axis by a vortex. The govenment in which he lived was wise enough to see that this was no question of civil jurisdiction, or we should 0177 177 all have been involved by authority in vortices. In fact, the vortices have been exploded, and the Newtonian principle of gravitation is now more firmly established, on the basis of reason, than it would be were the government to step in, and make it an article of necessary faith. Reason and experiment have been indulged, and error has fled before them. It is error alone which needs the support of government. Truth can stand by itself. Subject opinion to coercion, whom will you make your inquisitors? Fallible men; men governed by bad passions, by private as well as public reasons. And why subject it to coercion? To produce uniformity. But is uniformity of opinion desirable? No more than the face and stature. Introduce the bed of Procrustes then, and, as there is danger that the large man may beat the small, make us all of a size, by lopping the former, and stretching the latter. Difference of opinion is advantageous in religion. The several sects perform the office of a censor morum over each other. Is uniformity attainable? Millions of innocent men, women, and children, since the introduction of christianity, have been burnt, tortured, fined, imprisoned; yet we have not advanced one inch towards uniformity. What has been the effect of coercion? To make one half of the world fools, and the other hypocrites; to support roguery and error all over the earth. Let us reflect that it is inhabited by a thousand millions of people; that they profess probably a thousand different systems of religion; that ours is but one of that thousand; that, if there be but one right, and ours that one, we would wish to see nine hundred and ninety-nine wandering sects gathered into the fold of truth. But against such a majority, we cannot effect this by force. Reason and persuasion are the only practicable instruments. To make way for these, free inquiry must be indulged; and how can we wish others to indulge it, while we refuse it ourselves? But every state, says an inquisitor, has established some religion. No two, say I, have established the same. Is this a proof of the infallibility of establishments? Our sister states of Pennsylvania and New York; however, have long subsisted without any establishment at all. The experiment was new and doubtful when they made it. It has answered beyond conception. They flourish infinitely. Religion is well supported; of various kinds, indeed, but all good enough: all sufficient to preserve peace and order. Or, if a sect arises, whose tenets would subvert morals, good sense has fair play, and 23 0178 178 reasons and laughs it out of doors, without suffering the state to be troubled with it. They do not hang more malefactors than we do. They are not more disturbed with religious dissentions. On the contrary, their harmony is unparalleled, and can be ascribed to nothing but their unbounded tolerance, because there is no other circumstance in which they differ from every other nation on earth. They have made the happy discovery that the way to silence religious disputes is to take no notice of them. Let us, too, give this experiment fair play, and get rid, while we may, of these tyrannical laws.”

The experiment has been tried, and has succeeded,—An act passed the Virginia Assembly, in the beginning of 1786, in which it is declared, that, being “well aware that Almighty God hath created the mind free; that all attempts to influence it by temporal punishments or burthens, or by civil incapacitations, tend only to beget habits of hypocrisy and meanness, and are a departure from the plan of the holy Author of our religion, who being Lord over both body and mind, yet chose not to propagate it by coercions in either, &c.—Be it therefore enacted by the General Assembly, That no man shall be compelled to frequent or support any religious worship, place, or ministry whatsoever, nor shall be enforced, restrained, molested, or burthened in his body or goods, nor shall otherwise suffer on account of his religious opinions or belief; but that all men shall be free to profess, and by arguments to maintain their opinions in matters of religion, and that the same shall in no wise diminish, enlarge, or affect their civil capacities.”

The following are the outlines of the form of state government:

“The executive powers are lodged in the hands of a governor, chosen annually, and incapable of acting any more than three years in seven. He is assisted by a council of eight members. The judiciary powers are divided among several courts, Legislation is exercised by two houses of assembly, the one called the House of Delegates, composed of two members from each county, chosen annually by the citizens possessing an estate for life in 100 acres of uninhabited land, or 25 acres with a house and lot on it, or a house or lot in some town. The other, called the Senate, consisting of 24 members, chosen quadrennially by the same electors, who, for this purpose, are distributed into 24 districts. The concurrence of both houses is necessary to the passage of a law: they have the appointment of the governor and council, the judges of the superior courts, 0179 179 auditors, attorney-general, treasurer, register of the land-office, and delegates to congress.”

I have bestowed considerable pains to make myself master of the geography and political importance of this state, because from its situation and extent it must necessarily have a great influence on the body politic of the United States. It is the largest state in the Union, and has given two presidents, out of three, to the United States. It is geographically central, and from its position must necessarily include or be contiguous to the seat of the general government, while the states remain in their present united form. Perhaps, too, it may be the best situation for forming a general theory of the climate of the United States; and probably Monticello, the seat of Mr. Jefferson, may be one of the best positions in Virginia for making experiments, and contrasting them with those made in other places; and Mr. Jefferson has in a very laudable manner availed himself of this advantage.

As Mr. Jefferson's Notes are well known, and may be considered as containing authentic information on many important topics relative to this his native state, I have indulged myself by making copious extracts on the particular subjects to which they had reference; and I shall now close this article by a few more miscellaneous subjects, which I consider not only as valuable in themselves, but very important, as containing Mr. Jefferson's opinions on several points of political economy.

On Government.

The following extracts are from the draft of a fundamental constitution for the commonwealth of Virginia.

“The said state shall for ever hereafter be governed as a commonwealth.

“The power of government shall be divided into three distinct departments, each of them to be confided to a separate body of magistracy”—legislative—judiciary—and executive.

“The legislature shall consist of two branches, the one to be called the house of delegates, the other the senate—and both the general assembly.

The delegates to be elected annually the senators, biennially, and one half to vacate their seats each year.

“All free male citizens, of full age, and sane mind, who for one year before shall have been resident in the county, or shall through 0180 180 the whole of that time have possessed therein real property of the value of, or shall for the same time have been enrolled in the militia, and no others, shall have a right to vote for delegates for the said county, and for senatorial electors for the district. They shall give their votes personally, and vivâ voce.

“The executive power shall be exercised by a governor, who shall be chosen by joint ballot of both houses of assembly, and when chosen shall remain in office five years, and be ineligible a second time.

“A council of state shall be chosen by joint ballot of both houses of assembly, who shall hold their offices seven years, and be ineligible a second time. Their duty shall be to attend and advise the governor: they shall annually choose a president, who shall preside in council in absence of the governor, and who, in case of his office becoming vacant by death, or otherwise, shall have authority to exercise all his functions, till a new appointment be made.

“The judiciary shall be exercised by county courts, and such other inferior courts as the legislature shall think proper to continue or to erect; by three superior courts, to wit, a court of admiralty, a general court of common law, and a high court of chancery; and by one supreme court, to be called the court of appeals.

“The governor, two counsellors of state, and a judge from each of the superior courts of chancery, common law and admiralty, shall be a council to revise all bills which shall have passed both houses of assembly.

“The military shall be subordinate to the civil power.

“Printing presses shall be subject to no other restraint than liableness to legal prosecution for false facts printed and published.”

On the Importation of Foreigners.

“But are there no inconveniencies to be thrown into the scale against the advantage expected from a multiplication of numbers, by the importation of foreigners? It is for the happiness of those united in society to harmonize as much as possible in matters which they must of necessity transact together. Civil government being the sole object of forming societies, its administration must be conducted by common consent. Every species of government has its specific principles. Ours perhaps are more peculiar than those of any other in the universe. It is a composition of the freest principles of the English constitution, with others derived from natural right 0181 181 and natural reason. To these nothing can be more opposed than the maxims of absolute monarchies. Yet from such we are to expect the greatest number of emigrants. They will bring with them the principles of the governments they leave, imbibed in their early youth; or if able to throw them off, it will be in exchange for an unbounded licentiousness, passing, as is usual, from one extreme to another. It would be a miracle were they to stop precisely at the point of temperate liberty. These principles, with their language, they will transmit to their children. In proportion to their numbers, they will share with us the legislation. They will infuse into it their spirit, warp and bias its direction, and render it a heterogeneous, incoherent, distracted mass. I may appeal to experience during the present contest, for a verification of these conjectures.” After a few other reflections, Mr. Jefferson adds—“If they come of themselves, they are entitled to all the rights of citizenship; but I doubt the expediency of inviting them by extraordinary encouragements. I mean not that these doubts should extend to useful artificers. The policy of that measure depends on very different considerations. Spare no expense in obtaining them. They will after a while go to the plough and the hoe; but, in the mean time, they will teach us something we do not know. It is not so in agriculture: the different state of that among us does not proceed from a want of knowledge merely; it is from our having such quantities of land, to waste as we please. In Europe the object is to make the most of their land—labour being abundant: here, it is to make the most of our labour—land being abundant.”

On Manufactures, Agriculture, and Commerce.

“We never had an interior trade of any importance. Our exterior commerce has suffered very much from the beginning of the present contest. During this time we have manufactured within our families the most necessary articles of clothing. Those of cotton will bear some comparison with the same kinds of manufacture in Europe; but those of wool, flax, and hemp are very coarse, unsightly, and unpleasant: and such is our attachment to agriculture, and such our preference for foreign manufactures, that, be it wise or unwise, our people will certainly return as soon as they can, to the raising raw materials, and exchanging them for finer manufactures than they are able to execute themselves.

“The political economists of Europe have established it as a 0182 182 principle that every state should endeavour to manufacture for itself; and this principle, like many others, we transfer to America, without calculating the difference of circumstance which should often produce a different result. In Europe, the lands are either cultivated, or locked up against the cultivator. Manufacture must therefore be resorted to of necessity, not of choice, to support the surplus of their people. But we have an immensity of land, courting the industry of the husbandman. Is it best then that all our citizens should be employed in its improvement, or that one half should be called off from that to exercise manufactures and handicraft arts for the other? THOSE WHO LABOUR IN THE EARTH ARE THE CHOSEN PEOPLE OF GOD, if ever he had a chosen people, whose breasts he has made his peculiar deposit for substantial and genuine virtue. It is the focus in which he keeps alive that sacred fire, which otherwise might escape from the face of the earth. Corruption of morals in the mass of cultivators, is a phenomenon of which no age nor nation has furnished an example. It is the mark set on those, who, not looking up to heaven, to their own soil and industry, as does the husbandman, for their subsistence, depend for it on the casualties and caprice of customers. Dependence begets subservience and venality, suffocates the germ of virtue, and prepares fit tools for the designs of ambition. This, the natural progress and consequence of the arts, has sometimes perhaps been retarded by accidental circumstances: but, generally speaking, the proportion which the aggregate of the other classes of the citizens bears in any state to that of its husbandmen, is the proportion of its unsound to its healthy parts, and is a good enough barometer whereby to measure its degree of corruption. While we have land to labour, then, let us never wish to see our citizens occupied at a work-bench, or twirling a distaff. Carpenters, masons, and smiths are wanted in husbandry; but for the general operations of manufacture, let our work-shops remain in Europe. It is better to carry provisions and materials to workmen there, than to bring them to the provisions and materials, and with them their manners and principles. The loss by the transportation of commodities across the Atlantic will be made up in happiness and permanence of government. The mobs of great cities add just so much to the support of pure government, as sores do to the strength of the human body. It is the manners and spirit of a people which preserve a republic in vigour. A degeneracy in these is a canker, which soon eats to the heart of its laws and constitution.”

Two miles from where we entered the state of North Carolina, we crossed the Roanoke river by a flat-bottomed boat. The banks where we crossed were steep and well wooded; the soil rich and fertile.

The Roanoke is composed of two principal streams, the Dan and Staunton, which rise in the mountains, and unite in the state of Virginia, about 45 miles above where we crossed it. From thence it runs a pretty crooked passage, but nearly south-east, 80 miles, to where it falls into Albemarle sound, by four different channels, near the outlet of the Chowan river. It is navigable nearly 30 miles for vessels of considerable size, and for boats of from 20 to 40 tons to the falls, 70 miles from its mouth. The land is said to be very rich on the banks of this river, and many wealthy planters live on it.

We travelled 16 miles, partly along the banks of the river, to Warrenton, where we stopped for the night. The country was fertile and well improved; the weather cloudy and rather cold.

Warrenton is a neat little town, containing about 300 inhabitants, who look well, and are said to be mostly Europeans. The town stands on a high dry situation, and is said to be healthy. There is a very respectable academy, at which there are generally 60 or 70 students.

Thursday, October 9th, We left Warrenton at 5 o'clock in the morning, and travelled 25 miles, through a level, sandy country, to Louisburg, an inconsiderable village on the banks of the Tar river, which we crossed at this place.

Tar river is a considerable stream, rising about 30 miles above where we crossed it, and, running about 150 miles in a south east direction, falls into Pamlicoe sound. It is navigable about 30 miles to Washington, and from thence for flats to Tarborough, 90 miles from its outlet.

From hence we travelled 16 miles, the country sandy, and having a barren aspect, but the road pretty good, to Nuse river, which we passed by a ferry.

Nuse river rises about 40 miles above where we crossed, and, 0184 184 running a south-east course about 220 miles, falls also into Pamlicoe sound. It is navigable for sea-vessels 12 miles above Newbern, for flats 50 miles further, and for small boats nearly 200 miles from its outlet.

About eight miles, through a country a little more fertile and better improved, we reached Raleigh, and here we stopped for the night. The principal produce in the country through which we passed this day, is cotton and Indian corn. The weather was cloudy, with a shower of rain.

Raleigh, the seat of government of North Carolina, is situated in north latitude 35° 56′, and is nearly in the centre of the state, being 160 miles from the sea-coast. The plan of the city is regular, the streets crossing one another at right angles, and there is a large square in the middle for the public buildings.

Raleigh contained, by the census of 1800, 334 free persons and 335 slaves. The state-house cost above 15,000 dollars. There are no other public buildings of importance, and the greater part of the other buildings being of wood, the place exhibits no very flattering appearance. They have a little trade in cotton and tobacco.

Friday, 10th. We set out from Raleigh at 4 o'clock in the morning. The passengers had now all dispersed in different directions, except the captain and myself. We had the stage to ourselves, and were as merry as ever. But there were few objects exteriorly to excite attention, or elicit remark. The country was one continued dull scene of sand and pine barrens. Now and then we passed a few piles of wood, collected for the purpose of making tar; and the streams we crossed generally looked as if they had been at tar-making too, being nearly as black as that commodity. The elements indicated a change of weather, and recollecting the highlandman's prognostication, “long fair long foul,” I felt by anticipation a dreary tail to my journey after my agreeable friend would leave me, and we had only this day to travel in company.

In this mood I travelled 25 miles to Black river; and continuing our course through a similar country, we came to a small place called Avereysborough, soon after which we passed Cape Fear river.

Cape Fear river is the most considerable stream in North Carolina. It rises about 100 miles above Fayetteviile, and running a south-east direction, upwards of 200 miles, falls into the Atlantic 0185 185 ocean, at Cape Fear, which gives it its name. It is about three miles wide at its outlet, and there is 18 feet on the bar at high water. It is navigable for vessels drawing 10 or 11 feet, to Wilmington; by sloops 25 miles above Wilmington; and by boats to Fayetteville. Having crossed this river, we proceeded, nearly along its western bank, 35 miles to Fayetteville, which we reached about 7 o'clock.

Here my agreeable travelling companion, who was a very respectable merchant in the place, invited me to his house, and showed me every degree of hospitality. As no passengers were going on, he urged me to spend a couple of days with him, and as an inducement, promised to introduce me to a Scots highlander, who played delightfully on the bag pipes. I was, however, urgent to be home, and resisted all entreaty. But finding that my funds would not hold out till I reached Charleston, I availed myself of his friendship to get a small supply, till I could remit from thence, with which having furnished me, together with letters of introduction to some of his friends in that city, we parted with mutual good wishes.

Fayetteville contains about 1800 inhabitants, is a place of considerable trade, and is rising in wealth and importance. The public buildings are handsome; and there are a considerable number of mills, distilleries, breweries, and tan-yards. The principal produce, carried to Wilmington market, is tobacco, wheat, flour, cotton, flaxseed, and provisions.

The country round Fayetteville is generally sandy, but there are rich lands on the banks of the river, and the country is esteemed pretty healthy. A great many emigrants from Scotland are settled in the neighbourhood. Saturday, 11th. The stage started this morning at 5 o'clock, and I was the only passenger. The country became more and more dismal, and was very thinly inhabited. The day was rainy, damp, and disagreeable; the creeks swelled beyond their natural limits, which made crossing very difficult; and the people looked pale and sickly. Every thing conspired to throw me into a gloomy reverie. At one creek we found the bridge so shattered, that we had to unloose the horses and drag over the stage. On reaching Lumberton, 33 miles from Fayetteville, we stopped for the night, at the house of a very intelligent and inquisitive Yankee. 24

Lumberton, he told me, consisted of 33 houses, and contained 164 white people, and 44 blacks. He said the place was healthy; but judging from the countenances of the inhabitants, I would have thought otherwise. As to the food, it did not suit my palate at all. It consisted of bacon and brown bread, both of a very sable colour, and for drink we had new peach brandy as hot as pepper.

Sunday, 12th. It is customary for the stage to stop all Sunday; but having made a short journey yesterday, in consequence of the badness of the weather and roads, we had to make up the distance this day; and we set forward on our journey at 9 o'clock. The country became still more dismal, and the creeks were more swelled, so that we prosecuted our journey with great difficulty; and at length we met with an accident which proved fatal to one of the horses. We came to a creek, with a bridge in a very imperfect state. It was constructed of timber; three large logs were stretched across the creek, called sleepers, and these supported a number of mis-shapen pieces, called rafters, thrown on at random, without being fixed by either nails or pins. They had been disturbed by the freshet in the creek, and the driver alighted to adjust them. He then drove on; but on entering the bridge, the fore-wheels gathered the rafters in a heap, which stopped the progress of the carriage; and this happened just as the driver was in the act of whipping up the fore-horses. They sprung forward, and, disengaging themselves with a jerk, by pulling out the staple of the main swingletree, they set off full speed, the swingletrees rattling at their heels. We alighted, took out the other two horses, and dragged the stage over ourselves; when, putting in the horses, we moved forward, and half a mile from the creek we found one of the fore-horses lying nearly dead, at the side of a tree. It appeared that one was stronger than the other, and had pulled him off the road into the woods, when, dashing against a tree, the poor animal had got his death blow. I calculated that the bridge could have been put into a substantial state for five dollars; and this single accident would be a loss of at least 150.

A few miles beyond this we reached the stage, where we dined. Our dinner, as at Lumberton, was black bacon; our drink, new peach brandy. But our troubles were only beginning. A mile from where we dined we had to cross Ashpole swamp, about one-third 0187 187 of a mile in breadth; and here I met with something new. We swam across in the stage, and it was with difficulty that I preserved the mail from a very complete soaking. When I observed the fore-horseg plunge, I called out to the driver whether we must swim? “O yes,” says he, “swim away through thick and thin.” I requested that he would remove the mail to a higher seat. He was not for losing time. I insisted I might be allowed to remove my trunk; and this being granted, I prevailed on him to assist me in moving the mail also: which having done, he dashed right through the creek.

Soon after this we passed the boundary line of South Carolina, 20 miles from Lumberton, at which I gladly pause to take a general review of the state.

Is situated between north latitude 33° 47′ and 36• 30′, and 1° east and 6° 45′ west longitude. Its greatest length, from east to west, is 472, and its greatest breadth, from north to south, is 188 miles. It contains 50,500 square miles, or 32,320,000 acres.

The face of the country is much diversified. To the east, and south-east, there is a sea-coast of nearly 300 miles, indented with a great number of bays, the principal of which are Albemarle and Pamlicoe sounds, which receive the greater part of the rivers. On the outside of these sounds are some of the most remarkable capes in America, Cape Hatteras, and Cape Look-out, and to the southward is Cape Fear. The whole country below the head of tide water, about 100 miles into the interior, is low and sandy, abounding in swamps, and presents an evident appearance of having been at one period overflowed by the sea. The country from the head of the tide waters, towardsthe mountains, is agreeably uneven, and much improved in value. Among the mountains it is exactly similar to the state of Virginia; but being a few degrees to the south, the value of the country is improved, and the seasons in that district are delightful.

The state is, upon the whole, well watered. The rivers fall into the Atlantic Ocean, and have been all noticed, except some 0188 188 to the southward, which I shall have to cross in my way to Charleston.

It is supposed that this state is well supplied in valuable minerals, particularly in the mountainous district. Iron ore is very plenty, and gold has been found in considerable quantities. There are various mineral springs.

The soil of North Carolina is very similar to that of Virginia. The low part of the state, which is a considerable portion of it, is low, sandy, and barren, abounding in pine trees; and the swamps, which are very large, produce cedars and bay trees. There are, in this district, good tracts of meadow land along the rivers, which are well cultivated, and produce abundantly. From the head of the tide waters to the mountains, the soil improves, and is very various. The mountainous district is very similar to that in Virginia.

The climate in the low country is subject to great and sudden changes, and is often unhealthy in the fall. Generally, the winters are mild, but very changeable. The spring is early, but subject to occasional frosts. The summers are hot and sultry, and the autumns are serene and beautiful; but the exhalations from the decaying vegetable matter in the marshes and swamps are very injurious to health. In the upper country, the weather is more settled, and, being free from swamps, is healthy. Among the mountains, the climate is remarkably pleasant.

The history of the first settlement of North Carolina is considerably lost in obscurity. In 1710, it contained about 1200 fencible men, when the first permanent settlement was made, under the direction of the proprietors of South Carolina. In 1728, the proprietors having sold their right to the crown, it was erected into a royal government. The inhabitants took an early and decisive part in the war for independece, and the state suffered very severely. In 1774, they appointed three delegates to the first congress, and adopted a state constitution in 1776. It now sends two senators and twelve representatives to congress.

The state is divided into 8 districts and 60 counties. The population, in 1800, was 478,103, of whom 133,296 were slaves, being upwards of 10 persons to the square mile.

The state has made considerable improvements in agriculture, commerce, and national wealth; but it exhibits a barren prospect 0189 189 to the traveller. The post road runs through the poorest part of it, and, to use the language of Mr. Jefferson, “the genius of architecture seems to have shed his maledictions over the land.” The buildings are mostly of wood, some of them painted, and some not; and they exhibit a very unsightly appearance. Like Virginia, there are no large towns, and there seems to be no occasion for them. Mankind are probably better accommodated by a great number of small towns than by a few large cities.

Newbern is the chief town. It is situated at the confluence of the Nuse and Trent rivers, on a level point of land, somewhat resembling Charleston, South Carolina; and it carries on a considerable trade with other places in the state, and the West Indies. The population, in 1800, was 2467, of whom above one half were slaves.

Wilmington is the most commercial town in the state. It is situated at the junction of the two branches of Cape Fear river, 35 miles from the sea, and, being the place of depôt for a large back country, it carries on considerable trade, foreign and domestic. The town contains about 1700 inhabitants. The houses are mostly built of wood, and the town has suffered severely from fire at various times.

Edenton , on Albemarle Sound, is one of the oldest towns in the state, and was formerly the seat of the royal governors. It is favourably situated for trade, but is low and unhealthy. It contains about 750 inhabitants.

Raleigh and Fayetteville have been noticed. The others of most note are Washington, Tarborough , and Hillsborough , on the Tar river; Halifax , on the Roanoke; Salem , on the Yadkin; Morgantown , on the Catawba; and Beauford , near Cape Lookout. The population of these places is from about 300 to 700; and there are many villages containing from 100 to 300.

The roads and bridges are yet in an imperfect state, and much remains to be done to make travelling comfortable.

The inhabitants are mostly farmers, and produce on their farms every necessary of life. The principal commodities for sale are tar, turpentine, pitch, rosin, timber, bees-wax, corn, cotton, and tobacco. Almost every family in the country manufacture their own clothing, so that the British trade to this state is not great, nor important. The greater part of it is carried on through the 0190 190 medium of Charleston, or the northern states. The direct exports amounted, in 1805, to 779,903 dollars.

The state of society is somewhat similar to Virginia. Many of the planters are wealthy, frank, and hospitable; and considerable efforts have been made to place education on a respectable footing. A university has been founded, and endowed by the state; and there are several respectable academies. But the most important branch, that which has for its object the general diffusion of knowledge, has been neglected until of late. In 1808, however, an act passed the legislature to establish common schools throughout the state, which, if followed up, will produce good effects.

The legislative authority is vested in a senate and house of commons, together styled the General Assembly, and chosen annually. Senators must be possessed of 300 acres of land; representatives of 100. The electors of senators must be possessed of 50 acres of land; and of representatives a freehold in some town. The executive is vested in a governor, elected by the General Assembly, and he is not eligible to serve more than three years in six. He is assisted by a council of state, consisting of seven persons, elected by the Assembly annually. The judiciary consists of a supreme court, a court of equity, and a court of admiralty. The judges are appointed by the Assembly.

Although we had passed into a different state, we had neither a more beautiful country, nor a better road. The one was flat, swampy, and dismal; the other was bad in the extreme. We passed a small plantation, a mile from the state line, after which we had three miles of a solitary road, when we came to a methodist church, attended by a pretty decent looking congregation. Five miles from thence is Swimming creek; but we did not swim here, though we had to wade a long way. A mile farther we reached Little Pedee, where we left the stage, and crossed in a canoe to Ford's, where we stopped for the night.

The day was moist and warm, rather sultry, but on the whole not disagreeable. The country was more imminently wretched than any I had yet seen, and excited a wonder how it was inhabited at all, when there is so much good land, and so many fine climates, in other parts of the United States.

Little Pedee river rises about 80 miles above where we crossed it; it runs a south-east course about 130 miles, and falls into the Great Pedee. It is a considerable stream, and at this time was swelled by the late rains to a great extent. It is not navigable.

Monday, October 13th. On getting up this morning, at daylight, I found the driver, a young lad of about 18, was not inclined to go on with the stage, and Mr. Ford, the postmaster, seemed to be very indifferent whether he went or not. The driver alleged that there was a bridge broken on a creek about 18 miles distant, which he could not possibly get across, and it was of no use to try. I asked when it would be passable. He replied drily, “Perhaps in a month.” “And are we to wait here a month?” “I suppose so,” said he, with great sang froid. I appealed to the postmaster, but he appeared willing to leave it to the driver's discretion. Thus situated, I resolved to take a decisive course, and told them, that though I was unacquainted with the post-office regulations, yet it appeared to me that the stage ought not to be stopped, but by an unsurmountable difficulty, and, after the answers I had received, I would require to see that difficulty before I was satisfied of it. If therefore the stage was detained here, I would draw up a representation of the case, and send it to the postmaster-general. The young man said that there was a bye-path through the woods, which he could take, and perhaps get over the creek, provided he had any assistance. Another driver was in the house, who wished to go to Georgetown, and having no money, he offered to give his assistance if they would give him a passage free. This the postmaster objected to. The sum was only about three dollars, and I pointed out the impropriety of detaining the stage two days for such a trifle; but it was to no purpose; and I was obliged to become security for the payment of it before Mr. Ford would consent to let the young man go on.

Having got this matter adjusted, we travelled 15 miles to Reedy creek, the soil sandy, the woods pine, and many swamps by the way. The banks of this creek were overflowed to the breadth of a quarter 0192 192 of a mile on each side. About a mile beyond this the driver took a passage through the woods, the assistant driver acting as a pioneer; and after travelling in this way nearly three miles, we came to the creek, concerning which we had the altercation in the morning. It was not broad, but very deep, and choaked up with roots and brushwood. I did not like its appearance; but there was no alternative, we must either go through or return. Having secured the mail from the water, and taken some precautions in case of being upset, we plunged in, swam right across, reached the opposite bank in safety, and travelling about a mile more through trackless woods, we regained the road, very much to my satisfaction. I bestowed much applause on the two drivers for their good conduct, and at the first tavern we came to, treated them with a glass of grog. So our morning's scolding was forgotten, and we travelled on very agreeably through this disagreeable country.

We were hardly ever out of swamps and creeks. Six miles from our swimming creek, we reached Maple swamp; and here the bridge was also broken, and we had to get across in a flat, which detained us a considerable time. Five miles beyond this we reached the Great Pedee river, which we crossed by a ferry.

This is a fine flowing river; next to the Santee, the largest in South Carolina. It rises in north Carolina among the mountains, and has in that state the name of Yadkin river. From thence it continues a south-east course, and after being joined by large tributary streams, particularly Little Pedee, Lynch's creek, and Black river, it falls into the sea, 12 miles below Georgetown. Its whole length is upwards of 300 miles, and it waters an extensive tract of country. It is navigable for sea vessels to Georgetown, and for smaller vessels 100 miles higher up. It is about 400 yards broad where we crossed it, and flows with a strong current. Its banks are said to be fertile; but in the low country are very unhealthy.

We stopped here for breakfast, but the family were all sick with fever and ague, in consequence of which we were long detained. It was, however, at last produced, and consisted of unsightly coffee, brown bread, some bacon, and butter, which looked like “train oil thickened with salt.” I had just put the cup to my lips, when I heard a violent retching in the adjoining room, the door of which immediately opened, and out came such a smell as filled the room with a perfume somewhat different from that of Arabia Felix. I could not bear it, and urged to be gone; but the drivers seemed to 0193 193 be accustomed to these sort of scenes, and ate their coarse fare with all the composure imaginable.

We left this wretched place at half past 11 o'clock, and two miles distant came into the old post-road, which gave us a great degree of pleasure, as the road from Lumberton was all a new line, and desperately bad. However, our troubles were not over; for, a few miles after entering this road, we came to Lynch's creek, and here the bridge was not only gone, but the water was spread over the face of the earth nearly three quarters of a mile in breadth: there was a house at the other side, but the view was obstructed by the woods, and we had to halloo for half an hour before we were heard. At last, to use an Irish phrase, we heard the voice of oars plashing in the water, and soon saw two black fellows paddling a huge flat, on which we were taken across.

Passing over many creeks and swamps of inferior note, and there is hardly any thing else to excite attention in this country, we reached Blackmingo creek, at 4 o'clock in the afternoon. This creek had swelled to a great extent, and part of the bridge was gone, so that we could not get over the stage nor horses. We got across with the mail, which we delivered at the post-office, where we were informed that the Georgetown mail had not arrived; and so we were set fast, at length, at a miserable little place called Willton.

The whole city consisted of only about 15 or 20 houses; as for public buildings, there were none; but there was a tolerably good wooden building, at which I was told a Scotsman kept a dry-goods store. Aye! thinks I to myself, notwithstanding the eminent wretchedness of the place, Saunders has found out that something is to be done here. However, Paddy was not behind hand with him. The greater part of the other inhabitants were Irish people.

I took up my lodgings at the head inn, (there were two in the city) and I found my landlord a civil obliging little Irishman. I told him my adventures in the stage from Lumberton, at which he laughed heartily, observing, “By J—s, you must have had a tough time of it, and I'll warrant you have found the ground of your stomach: well, well, the old woman will have something ready presently, and I'll see to have a little bit of beef; and though it's salt, we'll have plenty of vegetables to it, and some pratees, the seed of which I got from old Ireland; and, in the mean time, we'll just have a little drop of something to drink peace and good neighbourhood. Och, now, I do like to see a countryman; and although 25 0194 194 you are not just a countryman neither, yet you are the next door neighbour to it, and that comes to the same thing.” So saying, he set off to give the necessary orders about the dinner, and soon returned with the bottle, attended by the doctor of the city , whom he introduced to me as a countryman, “and as honest a fellow as ever crossed the great sea.”

While we were regaling ourselves, the doctor was seized with an ague fit. “Och, now, doctor,” says the landlord, “what's that for? you should leave the like o' that to me, who am a trained hand at it; it's I that can rap it away to some purpose when I begin.” And he soon did begin to rap it away. He was seized with a violent fit. I felt for them at first; but when I observed their wo-begone countenances and odd gestures, I could not help comparing them, in my imagination, to Shakspeare's admirable simile of “Patience on a monument, smiling at grief,” and was obliged to burst out into a loud laugh. The landlord, forgetting his ague fit, joined me. “By my shoul,” says he, “you're a pure one. I believe, now, if you were to be here beside me, with that merry face of your own, you would do me more good than the doctor, with all his medicines. Doctor, why don't you shove that rascally ague about its business, and join me and the gentleman in the laugh?” The doctor smiled, which was all the length he could go; however, they soon got clear of their shake, and we sat down together to dinner. “Aye, this is something like civilization,” says I, putting my fork into the salt beef. “Now, would you have expected that I could have mustered you up a little bit of stuff like that?” said the landlord. “Now ate away heartily, and make yourself at home, and here's some pratees for you, and some sweet pratees, and there's some beans and turnips; take some o' that now, and some corn-bread, and some o' these cakes that was baked for you by the old woman, and ate heartily, and make your dinner, dear, for you see we don't want good fare, though we have got into a queer out o' th' world looking place.”

The officious kindness and good humour of this agreeable Irishman beguiled the time, and reconciled me to a detention of two days at this place, which would otherwise have been almost intolerable; for there was not a single external object to gratify the senses, the glorious effulgence of a bright sun excepted. The weather was clear and beautiful.

Wednesday, 15th. The Georgetown stage arrived, and the other mail from the northward; so we got relieved from our confinement 0195 195 at 5 o'clock; and, bidding adieu to the agreeable Irishman and his family, we set out in the stage.

The country continued, as before, flat and sandy, six miles, to Black river, which we passed by a wooden bridge. This bridge had been broken, which was the reason of the detention of the stage, and, though now repaired a little, it was still in a very shattered state. Black river rises near Camden, and running a south-east course, falls into the great Pedee, a little above Georgetown. The road continued pretty good, but the bridges were in very bad order, and we passed many of them; for the country is here intersected with creeks in all directions. We reached Georgetown, 20 miles from Willton, at 8 o'clock in the evening.

Here I was agreeably surprised to find a young gentleman who had been a considerable time clerk in the same house with me in Glasgow. We were mutually gratified at this meeting; the more so when we learned that we should travel together to Charleston.

Georgetown is situated at the confluence of Pedee and Black rivers, 12 miles from the sea, and contains about 2000 inhabitants. It is the only sea-port in South Carolina, except Charleston, and has a considerable trade, particularly in rice, of which it is said that the lands in its neighbourhood produce 30,000 tierces annually. The houses are mostly built of wood, and are but indifferent. The principal public buildings are a court-house, jail, an episcopal church, a presbyterian church, one for baptists, one for methodists, and a flourishing academy.

The situation is unhealthy in the fall, but the winters are mild and pleasant.

Thursday, 16th, we left Georgetown at 3 o'clock in the morning, and travelled through a level, sandy soil, about 13 miles, when we passed the north branch of the Santee. From thence there is a very muddy swamp, through which there is a causeway. But causeways here are entirely different from what they are in Britain. I naturally expected to find a pavement of stones, when the term was made use of; instead of which, I found them to consist of pieces of wood laid across the road, with a little space between them, which is filled up with earth and brush-wood; but this soon wears away, when the road becomes exceedingly rough. Over this we had to travel, jolt, jolt, jolt, jolt , for two miles, when we passed the south branch of the Santee, and had a good level road.

Santeē is the largest river in South Carolina, and is formed by two very large streams, the Congeree and Wateree, in the interior of the Country. Thence running upwards of 100 miles, in an east-south-east direction, it divides about 5 miles above where we crossed it, and falls into the Atlantic Ocean by two channels not far apart. The Wateree rises at the foot of the mountains in North Carolina, where it is denominated the Catawba, and, pursuing a south-east course, is joined by many tributary streams, and forms a junction with the Congeree, upwards of 200 miles from its source. The Congeree rises also in North Carolina, within a few miles of the Catawba, and pursues a south-east course about 70 miles, when it crosses the state line, and runs due south about 50 miles; it then runs south-east about 130 miles, and forms the junction aforesaid. In its passage through South Carolina, it receives a great many tributary streams, some of which are large rivers, particularly the Tyger, Enneree, and Reedy rivers.

Thirty miles from Georgetown, we stopped for dinner, where we had a view of the Atlantic Ocean; and this was several times repeated in our journey onward. There was no other variety, for the country is one continued sand flat, with drifting sand and pine trees. But the weather was delightful. We reached Charleston at 6 o'clock in the evening.

As it was of importance to make some arrangements at Charleston, I wrote to Savannah, and in the interim had a few days to spend with my friends.

On the evening of the 20th of October, I was invited by a friend to take a ride to the west end of the town. As we returned, a gentleman on horseback came up with us, whom my friend familiarly accosted by the appellation of Doctor, and introduced me as a stranger, recently from Britain. The doctor immediately entered into conversation on the affairs of that country. “I'm afraid,” says he, “it's all over with that empire.” “How so?” asked I. “Why,” says he, “it appears to me, that the present ministry will ruin the country.” “Why, now,” said I, “it appears to 0197 197 me, on the other hand, that they are making efforts to save it; at least, I think they have taken very important steps with that view, since they have been in power.” He replied, very dogmatically, that I did not seem to understand it;—the men were ruining the country; he was sure of it; he saw it very clearly. He was a jolly, good-looking man, with a drab coat, and a white hat; and I supposed him to be a doctor of medicine, and an American. But I was surprised at his violence, and his animosity to the whig party; for it was generally understood that they were much more favourably disposed towards America than their predecessors. When he had expressed his sentiments, I adverted to that favourable circumstance, and stated, that having been very lately in the country, I had paid a good deal of attention to public affairs, and was pretty well acquainted with the policy of the ministry; so that I ought to understand the subject at least as well as those who lived 3000 miles distant; and if he would give me leave, I would state a few particulars, which he would find to be highly in favour of the present administration. “You are entirely mistaken,” said he; “people who live here can form a much better judgment on the conduct of the British government than those who are on the spot. But what d'ye propose to tell me? can you mention a single instance in which they departed from the policy of Mr. Pitt? Can you mention one? I defy you to mention one.” I instanced the attempt to give peace to their country; to restore religious freedom to the Roman catholics; to conciliate foreign powers; but, above all, to put an end to the traffic in human flesh. He passed over all these circumstances except the last, and, fixing on it, “But Mr. Pitt,” says he, “advocated the abolition as well as Fox.” “He did so,” said I, “but in a very different manner, and with a very different effect.” “And I think the worse of him for so doing,” said he; “there, I think, he was an enemy to his country!” “I understood,” said I, “that you approved of the measures of Mr. Pitt.” “And so I did.” “Well, then, in supporting the abolition, was he an enemy to his country?” “No,” said he, “I don't think so; for I believe he was not sincere.” “Not sincere!” said I. “Sir, you place Mr. Pitt's memory in a very extraordinary point of view. If he was not sincere, he was a consummate hypocrite. If he was sincere, then, according to your opinion, he was an enemy to his country.“—”Ay, but there may be cases of expediency,” said he. “Cases of expediency!” said I. “Sir, truth is simple 0198 198 and honourable, and requires no expedients. Falsehood is base and detestable, and all the expedients in the world will not disguise it.—Besides, to apply cases of expediency to such a momentous concern as the slave trade, is monstrous.—The laws of morality require that we should do to our neighbours as we would be done by; humanity enforces it—Christianity”—I was going to say enjoins it; but our roads lay different, and we parted. “You should not have been so severe upon the doctor,” observed my friend. “who is he?” said I.—1 was astonished, and the reader will be astonished, to learn, that this approver of expedients—this supporter of the measures of Mr. Pitt—this advocate of the slave trade, was a minister of the gospel of Christ! and was sent out to Charleston on the recommendation of the late Dr. Blair of Edinburgh.

I was variously employed in Charleston until the 21st, by which time I had got all my arrangements completed, when, having no letter from Savannah, I became exceedingly impatient to be gone. I accordingly took my passage by the mail stage, and, as it was to start at three o'clock in the morning, I went to sleep in the stage-house.

I was seized with a slight fever during the night, and when the departure of the stage was announced, I found it was out of my power to proceed. I got very anxious, and sent for a doctor, who prescribed some medicine, and I believe gave me a very improper dose, to which, principally, I attribute a severe stomach complaint with which I was afterwards afflicted.

In this situation I was greatly assisted by a young Irishman, who came to lodge at the same house. He examined into my situation, told me he had been served in the same way at New Orleans, and prescribed some medicine to counteract the effect of the other, which was successful, and in all probability saved my life.

During my confinement there was a remarkable change of weather; the thermometer fell suddenly from 75° to 48°. I was told that such changes were very common there, in the spring and fall.

Charleston is elegantly situated on a point of land at the confluence of Cooper and Ashley rivers, which form the harbour, one of the most convenient in the United States. The ground on which the city is built is low, but it is open to the sea breeze, and is, upon the whole, one of the most eligible situations in the low country. The plan of the city is regular, the streets crossing 0199