Left Greenwich, Ct., to take train to New York. Our horse being lame, I walked to the depot, carrying a valise and bundle weighing about forty pounds. The morning was clear and pleasant, sufficiently cool to make exercise enjoyable. I met Clarence Mead at the depot, who is to go with me. Reached the Grand Central Depot, New York City, about 9 A.M. There we met Clarence's father, Mr. Frederick Mead, who accompanied us on the 42d street cars to 10th avenue. At this point Clarence's mother and sister met us and accompanied us on the cars to the Pacific Mail Steamship Company's pier, near Canal street, where we were to embark for San Francisco, on the ship Colon, by way of Aspinwall and Panama. Found the agent of the Pacific Mail line, who weighed our baggage and conveyed it to our stateroom. The ship was to sail at 12 M., but the time was extended to 1 P.M. Our stateroom, which had been selected some days previous, was room No. 13, on the main deck, which was quite comfortable, and convenient to other parts of the ship. It had three berths--the lower one we found convenient to store our baggage in. The price paid for passage was seventy dollars each. This included baggage of two hundred pounds each, as well as transportation. The cabin passengers numbered about forty-five, and there were about twenty-five or thirty in the steerage. Many friends of the passengers were on the wharf to see the vessel sail and to express 65 65 their best wishes for a pleasant voyage. To prevent accidents, a rowboat patrolled the waters around the ship and dock. At 1 P.M. the ship moved from the pier and began her voyage, passing numerous vessels in the harbor, the imposing Statue of Liberty on Bedloe's Island, the shores of Staten Island and Long Island, and the coast of New Jersey, which was somewhat dreary with its snowdrifts. The atmosphere was cold, and overcoats were needed when on deck. I observed several villages on Staten Island, with their church spires rising above them. Soon after leaving Sandy Hook, our vessel came to a full stop. Looking around for the cause, I observed the pilot leaving the wheel and proceeding to the side of the ship. He climbed over the rail in the direction of the stairs, and at the same time expressed most cordial wishes for a pleasant voyage. He proceeded down the stairs to the water's edge. After waiting there a few minutes, a pilot-boat made its appearance, and a yawl containing two men left the pilot-boat and made its way to the ship. On this the pilot was transferred to the schooner, waving his hand to us as he left. His occupation is very dangerous, and the pilots frequently lose their lives. A boat of this kind was lost in the late storm, with all on board. As the pilot passed over the rail, I noticed that one of the ship's officers handed him an envelope. We were told by the captain that it contained his fee of eighty dollars for piloting the ship out. After this stop of about ten or fifteen minutes, the ship proceeded on her way, with more regard for safety and comfort than for speed. Observed, as we passed along, the rows of buildings at Long Branch and Ocean Grove. At half-past 2 we had lunch. The evening sky was red and gorgeous as the sun sank into the sea, and as the shades of evening came on we passed the revolving light at Barnegat. The officers of the ship placed a white light at the front of the ship, a green light on one end of the captain's bridge and a red 66 66 light on the other. Dinner was served about 6 P.M. We were favored with a smooth sea and a bright, cold, moonlight night. The remainder of the evening was spent in the saloon. In the course of the evening I observed a man with a line and short rod of metal making his way to the rear of the saloon, where, taking up a round cap, he let the line down; this I was told was the carpenter, whose duty it was to sound the water in the hole at regular intervals, I think, of one hour. The three berths in our room were occupied as follows: the first by our baggage, the second by myself, and the third by Clarence.

As usual, I arose early and went on deck in time to see the sun rise. I found the hands clearing up and washing down the deck. Yesterday was a busy day with them, making everything ready for the sea. To-day, at 1 p.m., the captain said, we have made 236 miles, which is at the rate of 10 or 11 miles per hour. He has the reputation of being one of the best navigators in the Pacific Mail service. In talking with me, he said he had followed the sea 45 years. Breakfast was served this morning at 9 o'clock. A cup of coffee can be had by those who desire something earlier. Much of our time has been spent on the upper deck, where I have jotted down most of this journal. After breakfast I observed sea fowls, or gulls, in large numbers, picking up bits that were thrown overboard. Some of the bolder birds would fly near the stern of the vessel in order to obtain an advantage over their fellows in picking up the best pieces. After finishing their meal they mostly disappeared. In conversation this morning with the first officer of the ship, I spoke to him about my son, who went out in this same ship last April. He asked me his name. I told him it was Mead. He at once replied that he remembered him well, and said he was a fine fellow, too. He charged me to give him his best respects. I spoke to him regarding my son's attempt to carry some maple 67 67 sugar with him to California, which, on account of the heat and moisture of the climate, he was unable to keep. Yes, he said, and the sailors had a good time eating it. The sea to-day has a dark green color, resembling green ink. The atmosphere is growing hazy. Now, at 3 p.m., we have sighted but one or two vessels, and they at considerable distance. There are comparatively few passengers on the ship, several of whom are business men, with their families, from Aspinwall and Panama, who have been on to New York and are now returning. They are very gentlemanly and polite, but at the same time very wide-awake. They speak English well, but in their conversation among themselves they speak Spanish, showing their animation and enthusiasm by their gesticulation, as well as by their words. From them I obtained considerable information concerning their native cities. The ship's chambermaid, who is the only female employed on the vessel, informs me that she has been in the service twenty years, and during this time has made over 100 trips without being wrecked. Though we have been out but two days, I have been very much impressed with the system and order with which everything is done, and that where there are so many departments, employing from 75 to 100 men. The commands of the officers are obeyed without comment and with speed and precision. Regularly at 12 m. each day, the captain takes his reckoning for the past 24 hours, giving the number of miles run, the longitude and latitude we are in, etc., posting a record of the same in a certain place, where all the passengers can see it. The reckoning of to-day gave a running distance of 247 miles; latitude, 32 degrees N.

Up to this time we have experienced light winds and very smooth sea. I have known worse seas in Long Island Sound. But, as we have now entered the Gulf Stream, the vessel has a considerable roll, so that we have to use much 68 68 care in keeping our dishes on the table at meal time. In going on the spar-deck this morning, I found the sailors, under command of the first officer, busily engaged in bending the sails. Eight of them manned the yard arms, with great dexterity. Previously the wind has been dead ahead, but now it has changed to the east, and is blowing strong and steady; the captain has taken advantage of it, which quite perceptibly increased the speed of the ship, as well as helped to steady it. We are already past the Bermuda Islands, and have crossed the Gulf Stream, though we have not seen the islands or any other land since we left the Jersey coast. The atmosphere having become soft and balmy, most of my time during the day is spent on the spar-deck in company with the rest of the passengers, in reading, conversing or writing. The air is gradually growing softer and milder as we proceed on our way southward. I apprehend that when we reach the tropics we shall find that Winter there is not greatly different from our pleasantest Summer weather at the North. The cold, snowy weather which we were experiencing at home we have now left behind us for many months. At 11 a.m. we passed at a distance a large steamer bound north. The wind of which we spoke continues to blow stronger and stronger, in consequence of which the sea runs higher and higher. We also passed a schooner, which, with all her sails set, almost seemed to fly. The effect of the gale was such that, at 6 p.m., many of the passengers were seasick, and in this way the gale continued during the night.

There has been no abatement of the gale, and not more than half the passengers appeared at the breakfast table. The waves seem to resemble snow-clad hills, which give the effect of light and shade, reflecting the light from their tops, and seemingly disclosing patches of bare earth in the valleys. At 12 m., as usual, the captain took his reckoning, finding the run for the last 24 hours to be 260 miles; latitude, 28 degrees N. 69 69 The sky is clear; the wind has somewhat subsided, but there has been no perceptible lessening of the waves. The gentleman who regularly sits at my left at table had his cup of tea thrown up his coat sleeve. One of the passengers, who is on his way to South America to sell lumber, says the company he represents has 600,000 acres of pine land in Florida, and 86 sawmills. We have just passed a large three-masted schooner, headed to windward. It seems rather remarkable that we have seen so few vessels since we started. The thermometer registers 76 degrees, so that Winter clothing begins to be a burden; must soon begin to lay them aside.

Last night the roll of the ship was heavier than at any time during our voyage, in consequence of the course of the ship being in the trough of the sea. I saw a rainbow this morning which, for size and brilliancy, was perfect; it extended from horizon to horizon, surpassing incomparably anything of the kind I have ever witnessed. Its brightness was such that it cast the reflection of another, almost its equal, directly under it. The gale has subsided for some time, so that the ship now rolls much less. At 11 a.m. the captain read the Episcopal service in the saloon, at which about one-third of the passengers were present. Showers are frequent, but short, and the air is very moist. We have just seen land for the first time. It is Watkins Island, belonging to England, about 10 miles by 5, of coral formation, supporting a few inhabitants. A lighthouse is building on the highest point, which the captain says is greatly needed. At 12 m., we have run 240 miles; latitude, 24 degrees N.; thermometer, 77 degrees. At 9 p.m. we passed Birds Island light. There is a group of three islands of that name, extending about 40 miles. They belong to England. Most of these West India Islands extend north and south. We also passed one named Castle Island. While running between these islands the sea is quite smooth and the heavy roll of the ship has ceased.

Went on deck at 5 o'clock, and observed two men on the lookout at the bow and an officer on the bridge. Some were hoisting sails and some putting up awnings to protect the passengers from the sun. We saw a large schooner at some distance. Sea smooth. Vessel proceeding without much rocking. The past night has been the best, for sleeping, that we have had during the voyage. Wind about east; sails set. 8.30 a.m., thermometer, 79 degrees. We are passing Cuba on our right. This island is 700 miles long by 300 wide, extending northwest and southeast. Much of the island is quite high, and some of it which we saw seemed to be unimproved. 10.30, we ran quite close to the island, and observed a lighthouse on the shore. Latitude to-day, 20 degrees N.; longitude, 74 degrees W.; distance run, 272 miles. At 2 p.m. we passed the Pacific Mail steamer Acapulco. Since last evening Clarence has been somewhat indisposed with a sore throat. At 10 p.m. we passed Navassa Island on the west and Hayti on the east, but too far distant to be distinctly seen in the night.

We have now entered the Caribbean Sea. We have the benefit of the trade winds, blowing steadily from the east. Have a moderately rough sea, and more rolling of the ship than we have had for the last 48 hours. The sky is overcast by drifting clouds, such as are produced by heat, wind and water acting together. 7 a.m.--The sailors are engaged in unfurling and adjusting the sails, to take advantage of the trade winds. 11 a.m.--The sun has dried up the clouds. Clear and smooth sea. At 11 a.m. each day the passengers have access to their baggage stored in the hold. Latitude at 12 m., 16 degrees N.; longitude, 75 degrees W.; distance run, 257 miles. A fire drill was gone through with this afternoon. The fire alarm was the quick, sharp ringing of the bell for a short time, when all the men attached to the ship hastened to their position in line-- 71 71 line--offices, surgeon and all. Streams of water were poured forth on the ocean. The men remained in their positions for a few moments, when, at a signal from the steam whistle, they all returned to their former duties. About 9 p.m. a party gathered in the saloon and had music and dancing, with much jollity and fun. The captain's consent must first be obtained for entertainments of this sort. An Italian boy, who was attached to the ship in some capacity, furnished good music on the violin, receiving a collection in return for his services. The passengers are made up of several nationalities, mostly from the higher walks of life, intent on enjoying themselves. Not a vessel seen during the last 24 hours. The course of this steamship line appears to be out of the regular path of other vessels. Nothing to be seen but sky, water, stars and ship.

I left the warm, uncomfortable stateroom at 5 o'clock, and went on deck. I found one person stretched out on chairs, where he had spent the night. The air on deck, though warm, was pure and balmy. There is a steady, strong breeze blowing from the east--the trade wind, which continues to blow steadily for months. This wind is a great aid to sailing vessels. The chief engineer on this vessel informed me that the revolutions of the wheel had averaged 50 1-10 revolutions per minute. He calculates how much coal and water it takes to make a pound of steam. Notice is put up that all check baggage in staterooms must be removed to the baggage-room before 3 o'clock to-day. Latitude, 12 degrees 9 minutes N.; longitude, 78 degrees 19 minutes W.; distance run, 279 miles, the longest distance made in any one day during the voyage. No vessels seen from dawn till night. I have looked this evening, to find the north star, but without success, for I find we are too far south, and that where we are it is below the horizon.

Rising as usual and going on deck, I find we are nearing land and Aspinwall Bay. Reached the wharf about 7 a.m. Several sea vessels of different nationalities were moored in the bay, and others were lying at their wharves, receiving and discharging their cargoes. After breakfast we went ashore. Aspinwall is built on low, flat, marshy ground, little higher than the sea, said to have been formed by the sea. A very large proportion of the inhabitants are negroes. It contains but few women or children. It is a place where few care to live, except as business draws them. About all the business comes comes the railroad, which transports freight and passengers across the Isthmus, from ocean to ocean. At Aspinwall the tide rises three feet; at Panama twenty feet. There is considerable business done by this railroad, for all nations, in transporting freight. The building of the ship canal at the present time brings a large amount of business. Most of the laborers on this canal, it is said, come from Jamaica and Cuba. While walking in Aspinwall, we called on Mr. Stavey, who holds the position of paymaster in the Panama Railroad Company, and who received us with the greatest hospitality and kindness, conducting us about the portion of the city belonging to the railroad company, which is very handsomely improved, and is used for shops, etc., and residences for the employees. This city is named from its founder, a man from New York. The life of the city is entirely dependent upon the railroad. I saw, for the first time, cocoanut trees with the fruit growing upon them, and other tropical products. We spent seven hours in the city, from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m., when our train started for Panama. In crossing the Isthmus, we pass nearly all the way through low, wet, marshy ground, covered with dense vegetation; one continuous jungle. I saw some of the most miserable habitations I ever set my eyes upon, and their occupants correspondingly miserable. 73 73 The railroad and the canal doubtless furnish them employment from which they derive means to supply their wants, which are very few. They evidently belong to the lowest grade of civilization. No duties are levied on merchandise here; neither are licenses required for saloons, which are very numerous. The effects of strong drink are said to be much less severe, on account of the perspiration caused by the excessive heat. A great portion of the way, the canal was plainly in view, on which considerable work has already been accomplished. Short branches of railroads have been constructed to carry the excavated earth from the canal. We observed many temporary villages along the canal, the population on the line of which is estimated at 100,000, being mostly employed on the canal and railroad, together with their families. We reached Panama about 5 p.m., and were at once conducted to the wharf of the railroad company. There we embarked on a tug, which took us to our ship, the Colima, which was lying some distance out in the harbor. When we got on board it was about dark. There was some delay and confusion on the steamer, the purser being considerably under the influence of liquor. Our stateroom was finally assigned us, and we settled down again. Soon after this, supper was served. In the meantime the ship got under way. The trip across the Isthmus is of great value, on account of the suggestions and instruction a person may derive from it. Going on deck after supper, we found the air of the Pacific Ocean to be sweet, balmy and pleasant. The ship proceeds in a southern direction in order to get out of the harbor. I retired somewhat earlier than usual.

Arose early, as usual. The coast of Central America here is bordered by ranges of high mountains. Observed seven head of fat steers and eight or ten fine, fat sheep, beside large coops of turkeys, fowls and ducks, to be killed as needed, to supply the ship with fresh meat and poultry. To-day's 74 74 reckoning shows the latitude to be about 7 degrees N.; and longitude 81 degrees W.; distance run, 187 miles. Passed an island called Montosa, not very large and of oval shape, the surface rising from every side to the centre, where it appeared to be of considerable height. It was situated some distance from any other land, and has no inhabitants. In accordance with the regulations of the company, the fire drill was practiced.

Clear and a fine, steady breeze. The surface of the ocean smooth, and the air balmy. The regular routine of daily morning work is to wash down and polish up the ship. Cleanliness is carefully attended to. The ship's crew appear to be all Americans, except the waiters, who are Chinese. This ship, the Colima, is larger than the Colon, and is very roomy; a fine, noble vessel. She is somewhat old, runs quite steadily and smoothly, and makes but about ten miles per hour. Perfect discipline and order prevail here, as was the case on the Colon. This ship has but one cat, while the Colon had four. The coast is still lined with mountains. Honduras and the other Central American States are all being passed on our right. At 11 a.m. the sailors are at work tarring the rigging. They are distributed over all parts of it, from the masthead to the deck. There seems to be no time for idleness or loafing for them on shipboard. They are painting, cleaning, mending sails or ropes, together with the regular routine duties, which devolve on them, day and night, in their regular watches. At 1 p.m. a large volume of smoke is seen issuing from the peak of a high mountain in Costa Rica. If it were in the night, I think fire could be seen, as well as smoke. The reckoning to-day shows latitude 9 degrees 22 minutes N.; longitude 85 degrees 17 minutes W.; distance run, 264 miles.

Sunday. Arose and went on deck about a half hour before sunrise, in order to avail myself of the sweet air of the Pacific in this tropical climate, and to greet the sun as it 75 75 arose. We have now left behind us Costa Rica, with its mountain-lined coast. Since last evening the wind has increased perceptibly, which adds to our comfort. It is somewhat remarkable that on the way from New York to Aspinwall we found the wind blowing mostly from the south, and now, from Panama to San Francisco, we find it blowing from the north, both being head winds. Our course is west by north. Off the coast of Nicaragua, somewhere near here, it has been proposed that a ship canal should be built from ocean to ocean, by way of a lake. Schools of flying-fish are frequently seen flying from the bow of the vessel, having the appearance of flocks of chippy-birds, such as I have observed on the land; they fall back to the surface of the water again, after flying a few rods, and then disappear from sight in the water. The captain of the Colima says this is the pleasantest season of the year on the Pacific Ocean. The spacious promenade deck is protected from the sun by awnings, while the air has free circulation underneath, and the view in either direction is unobstructed. At noon the officers of the ship are taking their reckonings from the sun, by means of their instruments. We passed large schools of porpoises. We also frequently see large sea turtles floating on the water, appearing to go together in companies. It is truly impressive to see how full the ocean is of animate life. The land and the ocean are alike in this respect, but each is filled with creatures adapted to their respective spheres of life; in the ocean, from the whale down to the smallest particle which has animate being; on the land, from the now extinct mastodon to the smallest insect, how full is the Universe of God, as seen in His works! Those who do not thus see Him are without excuse. Latitude to-day, 11 degrees 56 minutes N.; longitude, 83 degrees W.; distance run, 271 miles. I have to-day learned the captain's name; it is J. M. Coperley, and the first officer's name is Dow; purser's, Kelley; doctor's, 76 76 Fisher. To-day I saw evidence of the accommodating disposition of a sea turtle, in his giving a large sea fowl a ride on his back. The sky at the horizon, usually beautiful, was rather more strikingly so at sunset to-night.

This morning we are sailing off the coast of Guatemala. Its coast, like that of the other Central American States which we have passed, is bordered by mountains. The Central American States, I am informed, are all independent of each other, and the mass of the people are poor, illiterate, and governed mostly by chiefs, called presidents, who rule with unlimited power. Legislators are elected by the higher classes, but suffrage is not allowed to the masses. The thermometer has recently averaged about 80 degrees. The mountains of Guatemala are much higher on the coast than any I have observed as we have passed the other Central American States. Clouds resting on them give the appearance of smoke. On passing a certain port at 11 a.m., our vessel hoisted its colors. A large business is done here in the coffee trade by the Pacific Mail steamships, the coffee being carried both to New York and San Francisco, by way of Panama. It is a rule on these ships that the children shall take their meals, under charge of the chambermaid, before the adults. Latitude to-day, 14 degrees N.; longitude, 92 degrees W.; distance run, 239 miles. Course is northwest.

It is said that in passing across the Gulf of Tehuantepec a gale is met three times out of four. It began blowing last evening about 6 o'clock, and the gale has continued up to the present time, 6 a.m. We found the change from the monotony which we have had for some days previous rather pleasant than otherwise. No expense or pains seem to have been spared by the company in providing for the safety and comfort of the passengers. Each stateroom is amply provided with life-preservers for each inmate, in case of sudden 77 77 emergency. There are no less than eight open boats on the deck or hanging on the davits, each having water casks fastened securely under the scats. These casks have a capacity of fifteen gallons each, and are filled regularly on leaving port. The bung-hole passes through the seat, and a faucet is placed in the end of each cask. Fastened in the same manner, under another seat, is a metallic bread chest. At each end of the boat there is an air-tight compartment, rendering it impossible for the boat to sink. There are also sails, mast and six oars, wrapped up in canvas, lying lengthwise in the centre of the boat. So the boat is ready to put to sea at any moment, thus providing safety for any emergency. For lighting and other uses, kerosene is not allowed on the ship, but oils of other kinds are used. The employees on the ship form a fire company, which has a weekly drill. Large quantities of water can be thrown by steam power. In regard to the boats, I omitted to state that each of the boats has its number conspicuously painted upon it, and that each of the crew is assigned to his own particular place, thus saving much time and confusion in case an emergency should arise. Temperature today, at 9 a.m., 72 degrees, and yesterday it was 80 degrees. It is growing somewhat cooler. The Mexican coast has been constantly in view since yesterday noon. A range of mountains, with some lofty peaks, lines the coast. The wind and sea have much subsided since we have crossed the Gulf of Tehuantepec. The great diversity in the shapes of the rocks and the hues of the foliage, and peculiar forms of the mountains in Mexico, as seen from our ship, might furnish an artist a fine opportunity to exercise his skill. Latitude, 15 degrees N.; longitude, 95 degrees W.; distance run, 247 miles.

With the exception of a few small showers near Aspinwall we have met with no rain since leaving Greenwich. The atmosphere now seems to have more moisture in it. 78 78 Saw, a few miles distant from us, two or three whales, their large backs rising considerably above the surface of the water. Latitude at noon, 16 degrees N.; longitude, 99 degrees W.; distance run, 247 miles. We are now nearing the harbor of Acapulco. The shores are very rocky and mountainous, and indicate poor soil, having but a stunted growth of shrubbery. In entering the harbor we pass through a narrow, short inlet. The harbor and town are well protected from wind by the mountains which surround it, leaving at their feet only room enough for a moderate sized bay. At the base and on the sides of the mountains nestles the old Spanish town of Acapulco--how old I do not know. From its appearance, I judge there has been very slight advance and improvement since its first existence. Streets narrow and rough everywhere. No vehicles or wheeled conveyances used, but in their place the backs of men and mules and the heads of women are employed for carrying. Nearly all buildings are constructed of adobe or stone, one story high, and are without taste, symmetry or order. The roofs are made of tile or thatch. People appear to be happy and contented in their mode of life, with few wants, and those easily supplied, subsisting much on fruit and fish. I also noticed some fowls and pigs. The people need very scanty clothing and comparatively no fuel, and they dwell in slightly built houses. There seems to be good order in the place. On one side of the town is an old fort, which is now used partly as a penitentiary and partly as a hospital. This we visited, and on our way we met the convicts being marched down to the town for some purpose. They were guarded by police or soldiers on either side, armed with guns and bayonets, while one mounted on a white horse brought up the rear. We halted as they passed us, and observed their movements to be as regular as drilled soldiers. We found the penitentiary rather an unsavory place, and made but a short stop. Passed several armed 79 79 guards as we entered the gate, but as we had a permit we were allowed to pass in, with a nod. These people appear to be smart in their way, but are bigoted Roman Catholics, and are so much under the priests that a few years ago they murdered some Protestant missionaries who were sent to them. The market place is in keeping with the other buildings in the place. Bought some lemons at a very reasonable price. Tropical fruits are plenty and cheap. The town has no wharves. The ships anchor off the town. All communication or transportation is done by boats and lighters. The rowboats are generally canoes or dugouts. I counted 25 rowboats and 4 scows. The latter brought water, coal, sacks of coffee and freight. These belong to the Pacific Mail Company. The rowboats nestled about the ship, filled with all sorts of tropical fruits, shells, flowers, fowls, eggs, parrots and other tropical birds. The occupants of these boats consisted of men, women and children, who manifested a pleasant rivalry among themselves in trying to dispose of their wares to the ship's passengers. So, too, there was quite a pleasant strife among them to see who should carry the passengers ashore, for which they received 50 cents for the round trip. There is a lighthouse on an island at the entrance of the harbor. After a stay of about seven hours, our ship got under way and proceeded out to sea, at 10 p.m. We were soon on the Pacific Ocean again, and shortly after I retired for the night.

At 10 a.m. we passed the Pacific Mail steamer Guatemala, bound for Panama. Latitude, 17 degrees N.; longitude, 101 degrees W.; distance run, 137 miles.

The sun arose this morning at 6.40. At 7 a.m. the ship is entering the port of Manzanillo. This town, like Acapulco, is built at the foot of mountains, on the shore of the bay. It appears to be more advanced in modern improvements than Acapulco. There is a railroad entering the town 80 80 through a gorge in the mountains about wide enough to admit the road, running back into the country about 40 miles. The City of Mexico is distant from this place about 250 miles. The trees on the mountains are much larger and of more luxuriant growth than I have yet observed on the Pacific coast, giving the town a more beautiful appearance than any I have yet seen. On the peak of one of these mountains, which overlooks both the coast and the town, is a humble looking building, with a mast surmounted by a cross set up near it. I was told that this is a place sacred for prayer and intercession for the sins of the people, and, that there might be no interruption, night or day, the priests take turns. No one is allowed to intrude upon this place; but it is kept sacred as a place of humiliation and prayer. Near the foot of this mountain of prayer is a neat, modest looking church. Standing about near it, without much appearance of regularity, were neat-looking houses, which seems to be the fashionable part of the town. Extending to the east, in a semi-circular shape, runs the bay, the railroad entering near the circle. The poorer classes seem to have their dwellings in the rear, but in close proximity to the town. The ship is discharging a large amount of merchandise, which is brought from New York, consisting of boxes, bales, coils of barbed wire for fencing, etc. The only means of transferring freight from the ship is in lighters, as there seem to be no wharves on this coast. The tide at this port is said to rise and fall ten feet. I observed but one other sea vessel in the harbor. This was a very handsome Danish brig, named Doran Fano. Numbers of the natives came on board, some to sell their wares and trinkets, others, of the better classes, to see the ship. Among these I observed a gentleman, with his wife and two or three children, all richly dressed in silks and jewels, evidently those of first standing in society. The ship was no doubt a great curiosity 81 81 to them. A grampus, or young whale, made its appearance near the ship. His spouting above the water, as well as his size, attracted considerable attention. People of the class described continue coming to see the ship. Schools and seminaries of learning receive considerable attention in Mexico. The language taught, of course, is Spanish. Among other freight, the ship is receiving on board square logs of manogany, cedar and lignum vitae--common timber in Mexico. Most of this timber was floated out to the ship, but some, being too heavy to float, was brought in scows. Young Mexicans, without clothing on them except short pants, swim in the water and fasten ropes to them, by diving and coming up on the other side, so that they could be hoisted into the ship. They displayed much skill and dexterity in this business. Coffee also, in large quantities, is being hoisted into the ship. All freight received and discharged from these ships is done by steam power. The rapidity with which it is handled by this means is remarkable. A handsome young deer was brought by one of the natives in a rowboat for sale. One of the passengers purchased it to take to San Francisco. Some San Francisco papers were obtained at this port, dated the 15th of the month. These contained some items from New York--the first news I have had from the East since the 8th of December. At 8 p.m. the ship hoisted anchor and left for the port of Manzanillo, and proceeded to sea.

We passed a large number of peculiarly repulsive looking fish, which some of the crew called devil-fish. I had a conversation with a German Jew, with whom I formed a pleasant acquaintance, and whom I found to be a genial, kind-hearted man, evidently a person of strong mind. He is on his way to his family, in San Francisco, where he spends part of the year. The rest is spent in Panama, where he has a jewelry store. His name is Broma. We were seated together 82 82 at the table, which gave me a good opportunity to become acquainted with him. I had frequently thought of asking his views concerning Christ, and as it is Christmas, I took the opportunity. He said Christ came to be a reformer, but came before the world was ready to receive Him; that He was no greater man or reformer than Moses; that all which is said concerning the Holy Ghost and the resurrection is fictitious, and was made up long after His death; in fact, that He was a remarkable man, but nothing more than human. I then spoke to him about the Messianic prophecies in Isaiah. He replied that they were very deep, and required much investigation and study, but they didn't refer to Christ, at any rate. He said he didn't believe the present body would be resurrected, because it is a body of sense, but that the resurrected body would be entirely different. I asked him if he thought friends here would know each other after the resurrection. He thought not, but he believed that all would finally be made happy. Latitude 21 degrees N.; longitude 105 degrees W.; distance run, 160 miles. At 3 p.m. we reached San Blas harbor. As we entered the harbor we passed, on our left, two white-coated rocks of singular formation. The Health Officer of the port, with his aids, came on board the ship, as some contagious disease had been brought into the place by the landing of passengers from some ship. They conducted a careful examination in regard to the health of the passengers on board. At this port, as at others, large numbers of natives came out with tropical fruits and boxes of cigars in their boats, for sale. The cigar business seems to be very flourishing here. Many of the passengers and crew bought of them, for the reason that they can be bought cheaper here than in America, on account of the duty. On the coast at this place valuable pearls are found. One recently taken near a large rock is said to be worth several thousand dollars. Valuable gold and silver mines exist in Mexico. An instance was 83 83 related to me to-day of a certain man who owns one of these mines of special value. He has constructed his house directly over it, and only takes out the ore as he needs, from time to time. While he receives no interest his capital is secure. I am told that on Christmas morning the bells are rung early. Afterward, at 5 a.m., early mass is said, and after that hour the bells are rung quite lively, but no more through the day. Every one is supposed to enjoy himself in his own way, and most of them become intoxicated. I am told that President Diaz makes a very good official, and does the best he can; that Protestantism is tolerated by the government. Although there may be outbreaks similar to those against the Chinese in the United States, yet the government does the best it can to protect them. I am also informed that, while the soil on the coast is comparatively worthless for agricultural purposes, there is in the interior of the country a large extent of high tableland, 6,000 or 7,000 feet high, the soil of which is very fertile and productive, and the climate very salubrious and healthful, and that a system of railroads is now being built by northern capital, the termination of which is to be at El Paso, in Texas. This will promote the interests, not only of agriculture and manufacture, but also the mining interests. I understand that there are very few Protestant churches in Mexico. There are four Protestant churches in the City of Mexico--a Methodist, Baptist, Presbyterian and Episcopalian, with a total of about 400 members, very few of which are natives. The greatest success of the mission work has been in educating orphan children. The orange crop is said to be large in Mexico this year.

The natural world here is beautiful. The village, the sky, the air and water, all combine to raise the thoughts of man to that Being whose goodness is over all His works. The work of discharging the cargo into lighters continues the same on this day as on any other, and there is 84 84 nothing in the arrangements on the ship to lead one to suspect it is Sunday. The captain appears to attend strictly to his duties as commander of the ship, but the passengers consider him rather a grouty man. My observation leads me to conclude that there is little African blood in Mexico, but almost entirely a mixture of Indian and Spanish, but in Central America there is much more African mixture with the Indian and Spanish. At 3.30 p.m. the ship weighed anchor. The anchor is raised by steam, thus saving manual labor and giving more expendition. On remarking to the first officer of the ship that I understood that an island had recently been discovered which was unknown hitherto, he said that such discoveries were of frequent occurrence at the present time. We occasionally see rocks which are painted white to make them conspicuous at night. This is said to be the work of the coast survey. At 4 p.m. we passed, on our right, a very large whitish rock, isolated at some distance in the ocean, on which we saw congregated a great many sea fowls, evidently a favorite resort for them. We passed, at some distance on the left, several small islands. Pearls are said to be found on the beach, and one very valuable one was found on the big white rock, which brought $1,700 here, and $3,500 in Europe.

Just before the sun arose we entered the harbor of Mazatlan. At the entrance there is a large, cone-shaped rock called the "Lion's Head Rock," from its resemblance to a lion's head. There is a lighthouse, and other high and prominent rocks on either side of the entrance of the harbor. At 9 a.m. I set off in a rowboat, with a number of others, to visit the town, which is situated about three miles distant. The price of the round trip is 75 cents Mexican money, which is equivalent to 60 cents United States money. We went through several of the principal streets of the town. We found this place much in advance of anything we have seen in Mexico. Among other 85 85 manufacturing establishments there is a large foundry. There is quite an imposing theatre. We visited a large cathedral, which has been building for about fifteen years, but is now nearing completion. It has a lofty ceiling, and its pillars and arches give it quite an imposing appearance. The buildings in the town are mostly made of brick coated over with cement. The streets are paved with cobblestones, but are quite rough. Here we saw wheeled conveyances for the first time. In Mexico the animal employed is the burro, a cross between the jack and the mule. The city is supplied with water brought in from the country on the backs of these animals. There is a framework supported across the back, which carries a water jar on either side, each containing several gallons. The water is sold about the place much as milk is sold at home. From the number of animals I saw thus loaded I concluded that this is quite an extensive business. The better class wear shoes, but most of the people wear sandals or go barefooted. There is an ancient church in use at present, which, I presume, will be superseded by the new cathedral. As is the custom here, they have no floor, but the ground is paved instead. By permission of the sexton we entered the church. We found a row of wooden seats around the sides--the only seats in the church. We observed several females kneeling on the pavement, as the worshipers are expected to do. In the centre of one side a priest sat in a box, so fully inclosed that only his legs and hands were visible. On either side of the box there was a small opening, at which we saw women in private communication with the priest. Numbers of others seemed to be kneeling and waiting their turn. We remained seated, unnoticed, until we chose to retire. Observed cocoanut and banana trees in the place, in courtyards and parks. There were also seats in the parks for those who might choose to rest. Whatever the cause may be, the fact is very plainly brought out here, as I 86 86 believe it is in all Roman Catholic countries, that they are far inferior to Protestant countries in improvements of all kinds, and in all which goes to make society enjoyable.

I observed a larger number of the African race in this place than I have seen anywhere since leaving Panama. At 3 p.m. the ship again hoisted her anchor and got under way, having now made the last port before reaching San Francisco, which place we expect to reach next Monday. Our course now is due west, on which I understand we are to run for six or seven hundred miles, after which our course will be about due north.

I have observed that since we have passed the tropics we have heavier dews. At 10 a.m. passed Cape St. Lucas. We saw several whales at a distance. The coast of Lower California appears to be a barren, sandy, rocky coast. The thermometer to-day stands at 70 degrees, and the atmosphere is very comfortable for sleeping at night. The instrument used to take the reckonings is called the sextant. Latitude 23 degrees N.; longitude, 110 degrees W.; distance run, 218 miles.

Strong headwind all day. No land or anything worthy of note sighted during the day. Latitude, 25 degrees N.; longitude, 113 degrees W.; distance run, 232 miles.

The sky, which has been clear for so long, has now become overcast with clouds, reminding us that we are approaching a change in climate. Witnessed a rainbow this morning; not brilliant as those seen in the tropics, but resembling those at home. At midday the clouds are gone.

Latitude, 25 degrees N.; longitude, 115 degrees W.; distance run, 207 miles. The past twenty-four hours we have had a strong headwind.

The wind has abated. Latitude, 31 degrees N.; longitude, 118 degrees W.; distance run, 227 miles. 87 87 Passed an island near the coast, said to be used largely for goat raising.

As we are sailing along the coast we see the coast range of mountains, which extend about the whole length of California. For the last few days an instrument called a log has been attached to the stern of the vessel. It consists of an instrument on the end of a long cord, which keeps revolving with varying rapidity, according to the speed of the vessel, and records the speed on a dial placed at the stern. Observed the sea gulls about the ship in much larger numbers than heretofore. They fly quite close to the ship, as no one is allowed to molest them. Latitude, 34 degrees N.; longitude, 121 degrees W.; distance run, 255 miles.

During last night we had a strong wind and a heavy sea. The ship rolled quite heavily. Thick fog this morning. The ship stops occasionally and runs at slow speed. The captain was on the bridge all night. At 8 a.m. the vessel stopped. A fog horn was heard to our left, said to be on an island off the coast. At 9 a.m. a pilot was taken on board. He came from the island in the direction of the fog horn sound. Passed a lighthouse on our right, likewise the Seal Rocks and Clift House. Also passed a fort on our right while sailing through the Golden Gate. The fog has lifted now so that objects on the shore are more discernible. The sea gulls which have accompanied us in very large numbers now, as we come to the wharf, light on the roof of the building which covers it, and almost conceal it, evidently without any fear of molestation, and as tame as our pigeons. We landed at 10 a.m. Our first business was to find a boarding place for our short stay in San Francisco. Our baggage was inspected by a custom house officer. As we emerged from the covered dock we were beset by runners from the different hotels. After some time spent in looking about 88 88 we decided to stop at the Marlborough House, corner of Second and Fulsome streets. Took dinner at 4 o'clock, after which we set out to take a walk until it was time for evening service. We found the First Congregational Church in time for evening service. This church, of which Rev. C. D. Barrows, D.D., is pastor, is at the corner of Post and Mason streets. Observing a notice of a meeting of the Young People's Christian League, three-quarters of an hour before the regular service time, in the parlors of the church, we passed in with others. The rooms were soon filled with more than could find seats. A large number took part in very short addresses or prayers, interspersed with singing. At the close of the meeting we repaired to the audience room above. Dr. Barrows preached with much force and power. The words of his text were: "Be ye sure of this, the kingdom of God has come nigh you." He pointed out some of the ways in which the kingdom of God had come nigh his hearers. The singing was very fine. Some of the selections were sung by a quartet, and others by the whole congregation, who sang with much animation. I missed the deep voice which I heard here four years ago, but the present one was very good. The services closed with the hymn, "One Sweetly Solemn Thought." After this we returned to our rooms.

Went out to make some calls on some people I knew. At the request of Mr. Fosdick, I called on Maim & Winchester, 220 Battery street. I bought a copy of Van Dyke's "Southern California" to present to my son. We made inquiries concerning the best way to go to Southern California. Took extensive walks with Clarence about the city. Being desirous of finding some New York papers, we went in search of them in the evening, and were informed that they could be found at the Mercantile Library and Reading Room, which is in Brush street, near Kearney, over the California Theatre. We found here a 89 89 very large room, well filled with people, who were reading books and newspapers. At first we found no New York papers until we inquired for them of the librarian. He politely invited us inside the railing which inclosed his desk, and took from a desk copies of the New York Tribune and Herald. They were only six or seven days old. We were invited to take seats at the Librarian's desk, and for an hour or two we read these papers. They were the first New York papers we had seen for nearly a month. We returned to our room about 9.30, and retired to rest. We were somewhat tired, having spent most of the day in walking about the city.

After due consideration we decided that it would be best to take the coast line steamer, which sails to-morrow morning at 9 a.m. At the office of the company we bought our tickets for $15 each. We returned to our rooms at 11 a.m. After dinner I took a walk with Clarence about the city; went into the Stock Exchange. The excitement seemed to equal that in the New York Stock Exchange. The exchange is near Nevada Block. After this we walked up California street, ascending some very high and steep hills, over which the cable roads run with perfect success. Saw several fine residences, with grounds and lawns beautifully laid out. We packed our baggage for tomorrow's passage on the steamer, which leaves at the foot of Broadway at 9 a.m. It stops at several ports on the California coast, as far as San Diego. The passage includes board. I am told that the present season is the coldest of the year, and it is just comfortable to walk without overcoats. The people appear to enjoy fine physical health as I observed them passing about, owing, no doubt, to plenty of exercise in the open air, and not having to be shut up in heated rooms in Winter time.

Took breakfast at 7 a.m. Left our hotel at 8 a.m., with baggage in hand. Having some distance to walk to 90 90 the steamer, the "Ancon," Captain Ackley, we required some time. This steamer is not the regular steamer on the line, but is used as a substitute, and is rather an old side-wheeler. The captain says she is the safest and most comfortable steamer on the line. We were introduced to our captain at our hotel last evening, he being a boarder there. By the time we reached our vessel our baggage began to grow somewhat heavy. We reached the steamer in good time, and found quite a number of passengers going to Southern California. There was much stir and confusion in getting located in the staterooms. Our stateroom is on the land side, and has three berths. Owing to the number of passengers, we were obliged to take a third person in with us. As we were passing through the Golden Gate we had a fine view of a portion of the city, as well as of the high rocks to our right. The weather is fine and the sea comparatively smooth. Sea gulls escorted us out. On meeting incoming vessels, a part of them left us to escort them in. At 1 p.m. we passed a lighthouse. Having a fair wind, the sails are set. Our ship rides the sea buoyantly, being made of wood, and being a side-wheeler, she rolls less. I am surprised at the number of passengers who are seasick. At 7 p.m. we passed a lighthouse. In the evening we had some singing, accompanied by a piano. On each of the three steamers we have been in there has been a piano in the saloon. There have been passengers on each who could play on them, thus relieving the monotony of sea traveling. We retired about 10 p.m., and had a fine night's rest.

About daylight this morning we reached the port of San Luis Obispo, 200 miles from San Francisco. We landed at a commodious wharf, with vast storehouses to correspond. Freight was discharged and received at this port. Spent less than an hour's time, after which the ship moved out of the harbor and proceeded on her way. Noticing the healthy 91 91 condition of several children on board, I remarked this to one of the parents. He said that the children were healthier and stronger here than at the East, and it is easier to raise them. I also inquired of him concerning the different complaints which children are subject to in the East. He said these complaints were thought little of here, as they came in a lighter form. We dined at 1 o'clock. At 1.30 p.m. we passed Point Conception, where there is a lighthouse. Beyond this, on the shore, we saw herds of cattle, also a wharf for whalers. Whales are said to come near the shore about here. This is in Santa Barbara County. The method of catching the whales is to shoot a harpoon, with rope attached, from a gun on board the boat. I noticed a gull standing on the topmast apparently taking observation of what was passing on deck, besides getting a free ride. There are two kinds of these fowls, one of much darker color than the other. We passed inside of several islands, the largest of which, I understand, is named Santa Rosa. I observed on the coast now, at the foot of the mountains, patches of ground recently plowed and cultivated. At a point off Santa Barbara oil rises to the surface from a well under water. There are other wells on shore also. On this point there is a lighthouse. We found the wharf in the harbor very long and large. As our boat was to remain here two hours, and the evening was bright and moonlight, we took a walk to see the town. This is the county seat, and the main avenue is a mile or two in length. It appears to be a place of considerable size and much business. In addition to its advantages by sea, a railroad is being constructed into it. I observed numerous stores, a large hotel and several churches. Real estate is held at very high prices. This is an incorporated city of six or seven thousand inhabitants. The long pier is owned by one individual. The steamer left this port at 9 p.m. The moon shone brightly on the sea. Retired shortly after.

At daybreak we reached Wilmington and San Pedro, the port where we landed. Our breakfast was kindly furnished at an early hour. This appears to be quite a business place, being the seaport of Los Angeles. Started on the cars for Los Angeles about 7 a.m., which place is about thirty miles distant. The railroad runs for considerable distance on piers and low ground, and across the bay on spiles. From Wilmington we proceed at a more rapid rate of speed. We pass through fields where the stalks of last year's corn crop are still standing. Our train stopped at Compton, which appears to be quite a village. Saw plowing going on, and considerable quantities of alfalfa growing along the railroad, also extensive rows of evergreens. Reached Los Angeles at 8.30 a.m.. Here Clarence and I were to go in different directions, he to take the train to Orange, I to go on to San Gorgonio on the Southern Pacific. His train was to leave at 9.30 a.m., giving him time to get his baggage changed and to purchase his ticket. As the train on the Southern Pacific didn't leave till 2.40 p.m., I had to wait until that time. While waiting some five hours in the depot, I met with a number of others who were going to different points in Southern California. Some go on account of their health, to find a more genial and salubrious climate, and some to better their condition in places where the comforts and requirements of life are easily met. After leaving, at 2.40 p.m., the first village of any importance was Pomona. We passed through some fields of dry mustard stalks. The next place we came to was Ontario. This is a large place, and is well laid out. It contains a fine hotel, and is fast improving, promising to become a favorite place. Next place was Colton, where a branch road to Riverside intersects and a branch road runs to San Diego. After leaving this place we ran up a steep grade at a low rate of speed. We reached San Gorgonio between 6 and 7 p.m., the place where we were 93 93 to leave the cars and ride by stage for twelve miles to San Jacinto. We found the stage waiting, ready to receive passengers. I found the stage well filled with trunks, three mail bags, and two passengers besides myself. Arranged thus, we started for San Jacinto. Our way was mostly through a rough, mountainous country, with short turns on the edge of high precipices, on the side of the mountains, which, I presume, in the night, none but a careful driver and one who is well acquainted with the road could follow. From his conversation, I should judge that he had been a resident of California for a long time. He told us, during our night ride, of stage robberies and murders which had been committed on this route, one of which had happened within a year, pointing out the spots as we passed. Surely, no more sequestered or favorable spots for such deeds could be found than those which we passed through. We arrived at the end of our route in safety, about 9 or 10 o'clock p.m. I put up at the Glendale Hotel, kept by Mr. Rowell. This hotel is a new, well-kept, temperance house.

Took a walk around to see the place and to find Mr. Edwin Mead's residence. I soon found it, without any difficulty, situated about a quarter of a mile from the village, on Central avenue. As I approached the house, I saw a carpenter at work outside, whom I found to be Mr. Mead's son-in-law, Mr. MacBeth. Knowing each other by reputation, we felt like old friends. He invited me into the house, where I met Mrs. Mead and her daughter, Sarah, from whom I received a very cordial reception. Mr. Mead came in soon after, and he, with Mr. MacBeth, invited me to take a walk around the village, during which they introduced me to many of the inhabitants. As I then wished to go to my son's place, a man in the village very kindly offered to take me out. It is a distance of about three miles out, on what is called the mesa land. After proceeding part of the 94 94 way, we met my son, Mr. A.N. Mead, with his family, in his carriage, on his way to the village. The gentleman who was conveying me out refused any compensation for his services, and I changed my seat for one in my son's carriage. I returned with him to his house, which I found to be a very comfortable home, pleasantly situated, with good, convenient outbuildings. He soon after drove me around a 140-acre tract, the boundary of which was marked by a furrow. After dinner, I wrote a letter home, to Emma, and also one to Clarence, at Orange. We also drove quite extensively in the valley during the afternoon.

Last night was cool. Ice formed about the thickness of a window pane. In the morning I attended a union service of the Congregationalists and Methodists, held in the latter's church. Miss Miller, an evangelist, is holding protracted meetings in this place. She is a person of very winning manners and of much zeal and ability. She came from the East. The Rev. Mr. Palmer, who was formerly a settled preacher here, but has now become a local preacher, delivered a sermon. His text was, "It must needs be that offenses come, but woe unto that man by whom they come." There are three churches in the place--Methodist, Congregationalist, and a Holiness church. I was introduced to the Congregational minister, Mr. McCunn, and several others after the service.

Rode with my son to see the tract of land, consisting of 3,000 acres, belonging to the Fairview Land and Water Company. This tract is also called "Florida." The company furnishes water to all those buying land of it. The tract is partially divided up into town plots, and the rest of it divided into 20-acre farms. To any one who will put up a house of a certain value, on certain town lots, they will give the lot, in order to start the town. This tract is near the mountains, from which the water is brought down through a ravine. The water is 95 95 conveyed in iron pipes over the tract. This is about eight miles from San Jacinto. As we passed up the ravine into the mountains, we saw immense flocks of quail. My son regretted very much that he hadn't his gun with him. The company is a stock company, the stock of which is in the market.

Rode to the village and to various other points in the valley with Abie. Met many people of the place, whom I found very sociable and agreeable.

Rode with Abie to Mr. MacBeth's, who, with Mr. Edwin Mead, accompanied us to the Fairview tract. There we found the only orange orchard which I have seen in the valley. It looked thrifty, and the trees had a fair quantity of oranges on them. It was situated in a gorge of the mountain and well protected.

Rode most of the day with Abie. Received a letter from Mr. Frederick Mead. Observed on the plain many holes in the ground, the homes of gophers and coyotes. These animals are considerable of a pest and annoyance. The gophers gnaw the roots of trees and the coyotes take fowls, etc., and are usually heard at night near the house. My son's two dogs keep them off. A still more annoying and destructive animal is the jack-rabbit, which also lives in holes in the ground. They are about three times as large as the cotton-tail. They do great damage at certain seasons by gnawing the bark off young trees, which have to be protected from them. They are so swift that scarcely any common dog can overtake them in a fair race. But one man, who owns several greyhounds, makes quite a sport of catching them.

Rode to the village in the morning. In the afternoon, I went out with Abie to get a load of dry wood, in the timber belonging to the box factory, which is given for the getting. So many had preceded us in this that we found very meagre 96 96 picking. This box factory has bought the timber on several hundred acres of land, with five years' time to take it off and work it up into lumber and into slabs of thicknesses from 1-16 of an inch to 1 inch. It is used for making raisin and orange boxes, etc. I bought a 40-acre tract of land in section 160, and also 160 acres in section 163.

Went to the hot springs this morning with Abie. They are situated some two miles from the village, on the side of the mountains. These springs are much resorted to for bathing. The water is quite warm as it comes from the mountains. To me the water was too warm to be comfortable, but it became very comfortable as I became accustomed to it. The water is impregnated with borax, iron and sulphur, which is said to be beneficial for many complaints. The land around the spring, about 100 acres, has been purchased by two or three individuals, for the purpose of putting up a hotel. In going to the spring, the bed of a wide river, which is now dry, must be crossed. We returned home about 7 p.m.

Sunday. Attended the Congregational Church in the morning. A commodious hall is now used as a place of worship. The congregation has no church edifice of its own, it being at present under the Home Missionary Society. The pastor, Rev. Mr. McCunn, preached from the text, "Who is on the Lord's side?" The church has 22 members and two deacons, Edwin Mead and Mr. Barber. The Sunday-school has about 50 members.

The appearance of much-needed rain has passed. There was some frost last night. Went with Abie to Mr. Edwin Mead's this morning. Stopped on our way to see a well belonging to Mr. Olmstead, said to have the greatest flow of any well in the valley. He is carrying water by a nine-inch iron pipe on to the mesa land, to be run into a reservoir, the surface of which is to be 1 square acre. It is to be 9 feet deep.

Rode to the village with Abie, and from there we went to the timber portion of the valley, to look at a ten-acre piece of timber belonging to a man named Carpenter. Had the refusal of it at $67.50 per acre. A fire to-day burned over some of the land I have bought.

Busy most of the day on Abie's place. Edwin Mead called in the afternoon. Abie began harrowing, in preparation for plowing.

Abie began plowing. Some rain has fallen which has made the ground suitable for tilling. Sent a letter of eight pages to Mr. Frederick Mead. Rode to the village in the afternoon. Mr. Webster came to see about renting some of Abie's land for pasture for four months, at 30 or 40 cents per acre. The Webster family consists of a mother, a daughter and three or four sons. They own large numbers of cattle and large tracts of land.

Spent part of the time in looking over land which I have recently bought. Went to look at some timber land about two and a half miles from the village. Received a letter from Augustus I. Mead.

Clear and cool. A light rain last night, but no rain to amount to anything has fallen since last Spring, about ten months ago. The present year has proved one of the driest known in California, and the Winter one of the coldest, ice having formed one-fourth of an inch thick in San Jacinto. The frost soon disappears after sunrise. The frost is heavier in this place than in those of lower altitude. The altitude of San Jacinto is 1,400 feet, and it is situated fifty miles from the coast; it is nearly surrounded by mountains, whose tops are more or less covered with snow, in plain view. Attended the Congregational Church in the morning. Reached the village in time for Sunday-school, which was taught both by the minister and 98 98 other teachers. The teaching seemed to be clear and good. The subject of the sermon was on the duty of praising God with the heart. The preacher said that meditation on His works, providence and words leads us to praise Him. He said we should praise Him by our lives and by our voice.

Drove to town to take Lillian to school. Assisted Abie in making a hayrack for his wagon. The hopeful signs of rain have failed again. There have been but two moderate rains in ten months, and in this time every day has been a good day for outdoor work.

Ice again this morning. Abie is drawing alfalfa hay, which he bought of Mr. Inwall.

Assisted Abie in drawing dirt to fill up around the house. Received a letter from Emma.

In my walk to-day I found a dead jack-rabbit, caught in the picket fence of the vineyard. He was caught while trying to get into the vineyard. Witnessed the operation of baling hay. It is pressed into a small compass quite hard, and bound with wire. It is done by two-horse power. There are four or five men working on it. Six tons are an ordinary day's work. Abie raises water by a windmill, which is so constructed as to afford him two good rooms, one above the other. The lower room is used for storing provisions, and the upper as a storeroom, but might be used as a bedroom.

The day spent in observing the Messrs. Todd repair the windmill. Frost last night. Sent a letter to Emma.

Went to the hot springs and took a bath. Received deeds for land bought on the mesa tract. Abie is making a sewer, or drain.

Attended the Congregational Church. The pastor being absent, an Episcopal clergyman named Mr. Anderson read the Episcopal service, and preached. 99 99 His text was Pilate's question to Christ, "What is truth?" There were enough Episcopalians in the congregation to carry on their responsive readings. Mr. Anderson is the president of the bank and a real estate agent. The day has been very clear and the atmosphere invigorating. "As the mountains are round about Jerusalem, so the Lord is round about them that fear Him."

Observed Webster's cattle, consisting of some 500 head, which are daily in view. At night they are shut up, but during the day they are kept in limits by horsemen and dogs. Abie cemented the room under the windmill.

In the morning I drove to the village. In the afternoon I walked to see the excavation for a new reservoir, which is being made by Mr. Olmstead. It is for irrigating the mesa land.

At the request of Mr. Kerr, I went to see his place, of about 130 acres, all fenced in. He has a brick house, with all the modern improvements, and a windmill for raising water. Two-thirds of the property is in alfalfa land, and there is some timber along the river. His price for the place, stock and implements, is $24,000. Visited Edwin Mead and took dinner with him.

Worked with Abie, building a chicken yard. One of Abie's horses cut his hind leg by jumping over a barbed wire fence.

Abie's colt Dixie was wounded on the knee by a kick from one of Webster's horses. Webster has sixty horses on the plain, where they live on the wild grass. Dixie got among them. The grass is very nutritious and abundant. Cows do well on it, and their milk makes fine butter, which makes Abie's butter much sought for by families in the village, who are regular customers and pay an extra price. I visited Mr. Warner's place, about a mile from Abie's, but in plain view. He has extensive orchards and vineyards set out. No one in the valley appears to 100 100 be more intelligent or to be better informed about the different kinds of fruit adapted to the valley, and about the manner of setting out and cultivating them. I extended my walk from there to Edwin Mead's vineyard of twenty acres, which is in the same neighborhood. The next place I visited was the Olmstead reservoir, the excavation of which is nearly finished. It is to be hoped that he will be successful, for as yet no flowing well has been obtained on the mesa land, though two attempts have been made to get it from artesian wells. From here I walked straight across the plain to Abie's house, a distance of about a mile and a half.

Some frost last night. Call from Mr. Thurston to take me to see a tract of land, consisting of 440 acres, which he wishes to sell at $17 per acre. Abie and I went with him around the whole tract. At the corners of the piece he has placed good-sized stones. It is between one and two miles west of Abie's, and runs up to the mountains. We returned about noon. Mr. Thurston stayed to dinner. In the afternoon I took a walk with Abie to Mr. Warner's, to consult him about the selection of trees for setting out. We found him very cordial and willing to give his advice. He has about forty acres in fruit and vineyard. We walked with him to see Mr. Edwin Mead's vineyard, which is but a short distance from his place. We returned home about 5 p.m.

Some rain fell last night, which, as usual, falls in the form of snow on the mountains, on which there is more now than we have observed at any time during the Winter. In the afternoon Mr. and Mrs. MacBeth called at the house and took tea.

Rain through most of the day, came in showers, but not enough to prevent Abie from plowing. Walked to the village. Called at Mr. Edwin Mead's and borrowed an umbrella of them. Had my account balanced at the bank.

Rode to the village in the morning. Lillian is to board at Mr. Edwin Mead's for a week or so, as Abie is too busy plowing to take her to school. Made a number of calls in the village, and returned about 1 p.m.

A rainy night, followed by a rainy day. This is the first day which has been stormy enough to prevent one from working outdoors for the last nine months.

Clear, after yesterday's rain. Started to walk to the village, but Mr. Fairchild overtook me, and I had a ride with him part of the way. After spending several hours in the village, I returned through Mr. Estidillo's land and woods. I reached Abie's about 4 p.m. Called at the new house, which is building opposite Mr. Edwin Mead's, and asked the cost of such a house, consisting of two stories, and found that it was $1,900. Received a letter from Emma, and likewise one from Clarence, from Orange, where he is at work, and seems to be doing well. Also received a paper from San Francisco.

Spent the day in sowing wheat and barley for Abie. I did a good, full day's work, in order to help along. Was thoroughly tired. A man, who has come out to get things ready to bring his family from Iowa, is building a house west of Abie's and setting out a vineyard. He expects to bring his family out next Fall. He returns to Iowa in the Spring to improve a farm which he owns there. Observed a new method of sowing grain. It is to ride in the back of a wagon and sow the grain; a person in the front drives the wagon. It was John Mead. He sowed twenty acres in one day. There is a great deal of snow on the mountain tops, which is very beautiful, as contrasted with the grotesque-shaped rocks protruding from it.

Walked west across my land to the new house being built by the Iowa man, and made a call on him. Mr. Ryan, the furniture dealer, came out from town to have a 102 102 hunt for jack-rabbits with his three greyhounds. They captured three rabbits. The race between the hounds and rabbits is quite interesting and exciting to witness. In the afternoon I went to the hot springs and took a bath. Received a letter from Cristy. Sent a letter to Emma, with check. When we reached home it was after dark, and Abie could not find his cows, so they were not milked that night, the first time such a thing has happened.

Considerable rain fell during the past night. Attended church in the morning. The text was: "Whatsoever thy hand findeth to do, do it with thy might." After church we made a call at Mr. MacBeth's. Abie and I took dinner there, and Mrs. Mead and Lillian at Mr. Edwin Mead's. Reached home about sundown. The roads are quite muddy in places.

More rain during the night. Walked to the village. Met Mr. Kerr, Mr. Thurston, Mr. Barber, Mr. Green, Mr. Kerr and Rev. Mr. Anderson. Rode back with Mr. MacBeth, who went with me to see a tract of twenty acres of land adjoining mine, which I bought at $45 per acre, he to have the crop of barley now growing on it.

Heavy rain fell last night, with a strong wind from the southeast. The earth is now thoroughly saturated with moisture, and much snow rests on the mountains. Rode to the village. Called on Mr. Barber, and took dinner with him. Received a letter from Emma. Abie received a letter from Jas. Rundle, of South Norwalk, Conn.

Rainy weather still continues. Rode out with Mr. Thurston to look at land. Wrote letters to Cristy, Emma and Clarence.

Weather clear and cool after the rain. Started to walk to the village, but got a ride part of the way. Observed that Mr. Olmstead had started the engine to pump 103 103 water from his well to the reservoir on the mesa land. Received two newspapers from Emma. Walked all the way back, in a direct line. In the afternoon I called on Mr. Warner, and on my way had a talk with Mr. Gaston, who was plowing. He is a man who is much esteemed here.

Spent the day in sowing barley. Sowed about six acres.

Clear and cool. In the morning I rode to the village with Abie. In the afternoon I walked out to the west on the mesa land.

Some frost. Abie's horses needed rest, so we didn't go to church to-day.

Walked to the village and back, a distance of three miles each way, which took me three and a half hours. Found the Tribune, from Emma, in the postoffice. In the afternoon I walked out on the mesa land, and toward evening I saw such large flocks of wild geese flying northward as I have never seen before.

Sowed barley in the forenoon. After dinner walked over to see some land belonging to Mr. Mitchel, which is being plowed. Stopped on my way to see the Iowa man. A Mrs. Seaman and daughter called on Mrs. Mead, also Sarah Mead, daughter of Edwin Mead.

Walked to the village and back. Abie hard at work plowing.

Busy about the place. Called at Mr. Butler's. Noticed the clouds resting below the mountain tops, obscuring them from view.

In the morning I walked to the village and back. In the afternoon I walked over to one of the mountains and climbed to its top. Part of the mountain is included in land that I own. Observed on its sides quails in great 104 104 quantities. While in the village this morning, I met Mr. MacBeth on his way to the cemetery to select a plot of ground for a man to bury his brother in. Mr. MacBeth is one of the committee. The cemetery is about two miles west of the village. I must have walked eight or ten miles during the day.

Assisted in work about the place. In the afternoon I rode to the village and met several real estate agents, who had land to sell in larger or smaller quantities.

Attended church in the morning. Mr. McCunn preached on "Sowing the Seed." The subject was probably suggested by the season, which is the sowing time for this part of the country. He preaches in Paris, about sixteen miles distant, on Sunday evenings, and he gave out notice that a church was to be formed there to-day. Afternoon and evening I rested at home. The weather is getting quite dry again. Smallpox has broken out in Los Angeles, and a man took it there and died about eight miles from this place. It has caused some alarm.

Walked to the village. Took dinner at the Glendale Hotel. Bought two lots, with a house on one of them, in the village, each 60x150 feet; price, $500; near the centre of the village.

Sowed six acres of barley. Finished about 3 p.m. Mr. Ryan came out again to-day, with his greyhounds, in a wagon, after jack-rabbits. Abie is harrowing in barley. The roads are growing quite dusty. Received two newspapers from Emma. In sowing barley to-day I came across a large snake stretched out in one of the furrows. He was of beautiful colors. Having no means of making a successful combat with him, I told him that if he would not molest me I would not molest him, so I passed on sowing barley. But when I came in calling distance of Abie, I told him to bring some weapon, which 105 105 he did, and killed the snake. It did not turn out to be a rattlesnake.

Walked to the village. Rode out with several real estate agents to look at different pieces of land which they had to sell. My time was thus occupied from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Abie bought a span of three-year-old black mares somewhere below the village, with a good double harness, for $375. I rode with Dr. Merchant to see a tract of woodland which runs down to the box factory. There is a flowing well on it, and it is fenced in. There is another tract, which was a part of this, lying on the south. This is also for sale. It has a house on it, with some fruit.

Signs of rain have failed. Abie is trying his new team at the plow. Two of the Websters rode from their large herd of cattle to the house for a drink of water. They were accompanied by their six dogs, which not only keep the cattle together, but also catch jack-rabbits. They had two which were caught that day. A Mr. Barrett, who was with us to-day, says that the best hotel in San Diego is the Commercial. In my walk to-day I saw large quantities of white sage bordering the mountains. It is from the flower of this that the bees are said to make their best honey, for which Southern California is noted. Its excellence I can attest to from experience. It is often as low here as 4 cents per pound.

Walked to the village in the morning. Mr. Warner called on me to-day to see if he couldn't borrow some money. There seems to be considerable activity in the sale of real estate at this time, caused, no doubt, by a rumor of a railroad coming into the place. This is uncertain, and may be a premature report, but it all helps the sale of real estate, which is the leading business of the place.

Abie went to Beaumont early this morning to 106 106 get some bundles of trees for himself and for some of the neighbors. Mrs. Mead and Lillian went with him. They didn't return till after dark, on account of the load and the road lying across the mountains. Walked to the village. Received deeds of the two village lots from the parties I purchased them of, and also a mortgage deed from Mr. MacBeth on his hotel. Spent most of the day in town, and returned home about sundown.

All nature seems to raise our thoughts to the great Creator of all, especially so in presence of mountains in their grandeur. And shall not man, the noblest of all His works, praise Him? I attended church in the morning. The pastor preached from the text, "I am the Rose of Sharon," showing how Christ resembles the rose in comparison. He spiritualized the subject. Wild geese continue their flight to the north in vast numbers, taking advantage of a fair southerly wind.

Rode to the village in the morning with Abie, who brought back with him fifty posts for fencing. Wild geese continue to fly, giving warning of their approach by their peculiar quack.

Rode to the village in the morning. Took dinner at the French Restaurant. The family to whom I have rented my cottage in the village has moved in. Rode out with Mr. Kerr, the agent of the land company, to see some land which is laid out for a town on the mesa. But the expectation of securing an artesian well having failed, after sinking a drill 900 feet, the place has not built up. Rode with him to see other 20-acre plots in that neighborhood, toward the mountains.

Rode to the village and bought two more village lots. Price, $310 for the two. Spent the day in the village. Called on Mr. MacBeth and took dinner with him. After dinner I took a ride with a real estate agent, Mr. Beal, to view land 107 107 in various locations. The price of land ranges from $40 to $450 per acre. Received papers from Emma. Rode home about dusk.

Took a walk over the mountains, and also over my 160-acre tract. From the top of the mountain I had a fine view over the valley and surrounding country. Called on a man named Swope, who has a residence in one of the notches of this mountain. He came here on account of his health, which is quite poor; he appears to have consumption. He came from Missouri. His aged father and some of his sisters are with him. On his place is a spring, coming from the base of the mountain, of no very great flow, but said to be perennial. This Mr. Swope is of the opinion that the chief village of the valley will ultimately be on the mesa land. This has almost invariably happened in other places, the town changing from the lower to the higher elevation. He also thinks that the spring on his place is forced up through seams from some subterranean river. A man by the name of Dodd, from Glenview, who has bought a lot of barley and barley hay from Abie, came to-day to take a load of it. Mr. W. W. Willard, who had been staying at Compton, Cal., came to Abie's this evening. He was in poor health, and desired to make a beneficial change of locality, further from the ocean.

Sowed the lawn in front of the house this morning. Rode with Abie and Mr. Willard to the village. Mrs. Miller and Mrs. Lamb spent the day at Abie's. They are neighbors living about six miles south, in the valley. They were sociable, intelligent ladies. Rode to the village in the afternoon. A Mr. Blackman, from Kansas City, who had bought a five-acre plot of unimproved ground in the village, wishes to sell it to me.

Went with Abie to get a load of alfalfa. I loaded it, and found by weight we had 2,600 pounds. Signs of 108 108 rain have failed. In getting the hay, Abie drove the four horses together. Took a drive with Mr. Willard in the afternoon to my land near the mountains. Later in the afternoon I drove to the village. Helped plant potatoes, peas, set out strawberries, etc. Irrigated in front of the house. The water is raised by the windmill and carried around in trenches.

Mr. Willard and I rode to church together. None of the rest of the family attended. Mr. McCunn's text was, "Arise, thou that sleepeth, and Christ will give thee life." The morning is clear and cool, but grows warmer as the day advances.

Drove to the village, and spent most of the day there; walked back. Sent a letter to Augustus I. Mead. Took dinner at the Glendale Hotel. Went to see a place of five acres in a grove near the brick kilns. Mrs. Mead, in riding the horse Kate after the cows, got a fall.

Rode to the village with Abie and Mr. Willard. Came back by way of the box factory to look for firewood. Bought five acres of land in the woods, near the brick kilns, with house, barn and outbuildings on it. On the track are about 100 large forest trees. Vast flocks of wild geese continue to fly over the valley in the same direction as before.

Rode to the village in the morning. Spent the afternoon in making trenches for water around the alfalfa patch. In the evening we attended a supper given by the ladies for the purpose of paying for a plot, bought to build a Congregational church on. It was largely attended. Many who attended did not belong to that society. The ladies did themselves great credit. Price of supper, 50 cents each. The net proceeds amounted to $80.

Went to the village in the morning. Returned by way of Mr. Inwall's alfalfa stacks, to assist Abie in loading 109 109 hay. Reached home about 4 p.m. Took dinner at the Glendale Hotel. Had many pleasant interviews in the village, as usual.

Went to the village in the morning. Rode about the valley with real estate agents. Took Mr. Blackman's contract off his hands for the block in the village, at the price which he had agreed upon, $2,200. Paid $300 down, and the balance due any time before February.

Spent most of the day at the village. Took dinner at the Glendale Hotel. Returned with Abie in the evening. Mr. Willard appears to be slightly better.

Attended church in the morning. Mr. McCunn preached on the subject of the Children of Israel giving one-tenth of their income. He thought, with other requirements, this amounted to one-quarter. In the afternoon rode down with Abie and family and Mr. Willard to Mr. Lamb's.

About the place in the morning. Walked to the village, and rode back. Sent a letter to Mr. Frederick Mead. No. 1 West 58th street, New York City.

A heavy easterly gale began blowing last evening, and continued through the day with increasing strength driving the dust-like clouds through the air. It was unobstructed in its course across the plains until it reached the mountains. People mostly kept within doors, but Abie and I rode to the village and plowed a furrow on the line of my village lots, and did a little repairing on my stable. Returned about 11 a.m. Went to work with Abie to brace the roof of his barn to prevent its blowing off. Abie bought a riding plow from Mr. Gaston, for which he paid $45, and brought it home. In the evening I received a letter from the Rev. Thomas B. Palmer of Fall Brook. Saw notice of the death of Harry Peck, of Greenwich, Ct., who died suddenly on the 14th.

Yesterday's gale was the heaviest ever experienced here, according to those who have lived in the valley thirty years. The roar in the mountains, as we heard it, might be compared to several trains of cars, or thunder, as it was heard in the valley. Two or three frail barns were blown down. Abie is setting out strawberry plants, shrubbery and trees. Had the bounds of my block in the village defined. Call in the evening from Mr. MacBeth.

Signs of rain have again failed. Call from Mr. Smyers, a real estate agent, with a Mr. Tucker, from Boston. Abie is trying his second-hand riding plow. Lillian brought home a young goat, which somebody gave her in the village. Received a letter and papers from Emma. The family, with Mr. Willard, drove to the village. Mr. Willard wished to consult a doctor.

The sun looks somewhat watery. Rain is greatly needed for vegetation. Took a walk out on the mesa with Mr. Willard for about half a mile. He had to stop frequently to gain his breath. Spent some time in watering the lawn and the alfalfa.

A moist, misty morning, equal to a light shower. Busy about the place in the morning. In the afternoon drove to the village. Received a deed for my town block and paid the balance due on it. Went with Rev. Mr. Anderson to my lot in the woods to have the bounds defined.

The nights are cool, as usual, but as the sun comes up it grows warmer. Attended church in the morning Mr. McCunn preached on the character of Joseph. He said that, though he was not particularly sensitive, yet when he was quite young he could not read the story of Joseph without bringing tears to his eyes.

In accordance with a previous arrangement, 111 111 Mr. MacBeth came, with his buggy, about 10 o'clock this morning, to go with me to the village of Fall Brook, about forty-five miles on the California Southern road. Mrs. Mead and Willard drove to the village. Passed around from Abie's to the north of the mountain, and drove through the next valley, called Pleasant Valley, where there are several houses and ranches. The next valley we came to was Don Magolia's Valley. He keeps large herds and supplies San Jacinto butchers with beef cattle. Here we passed on, through a gate, in a southwesterly course, until we came to a ranch, where we found water and a barn is which to feed our horse, and eat our lunch. The man of the house treated us very hospitably. After an hour's stop we passed on our way. This place is said to be fifteen miles from San Jacinto. We drove on at a steady gait of four or five miles per hour, until we reached Temecula, which place we reached at about 3 p.m. This is a railroad station on the California Southern Railroad, and the largest and greatest business place on our line to Fall Brook. After leaving this place and traveling about two miles, we entered a narrow gorge in the mountains, extending about three miles. The road, though narrow and of short turns, was well worked. After passing through this, we reached a village of a few houses and a small schoolhouse. From this place to Fall Brook we passed, here and there, a dwelling, but previous to this we had seen immense herds of sheep and swine on our route. We also observed considerable horehound growing, and also wild flowers of various shapes and hues, and the general appearance of vegetation shows us that we have got beyond where there is frost, and where there is more moisture. The soil on this route appears to be unadapted to alfalfa, and flowing wells could probably not be obtained, but water can be obtained by digging to the depth of six to eighty feet, and from the broken, hilly character of the 112 112 country, I judge the water must be good. The soil and climate are such as, it is said, do not require irrigation, and are quite productive, even on the tops of the hills. This was corroborated by the growth of vegetation on them. About ten or twelve miles before reaching Fall Brook, we passed over a long stretch of road which was very difficult to travel, requiring great care, slow driving and much caution to avoid serious accident. It apparently has not had much attention, judging from its deep gullies, washouts and short, narrow turns. But for three or four miles, near the village, the road was good, though somewhat hilly. We reached Fall Brook at 6.30 p.m., and felt grateful for our safe arrival, after passing over such roads, unacquainted with them as we were. We found a small village, in a valley extending to the hillsides. It contains a hotel, kept by a Mr. Tomlin, who, as we afterward found, was a former neighbor of Mr. Edwin Mead in Illinois, and his wife was a boarder in Mr. Mead's family, and jtaught school in the place. They were married at Mr. Mead's house, in Illinois, probably some thirty years ago. All this made us feel quite at home. The place also has two stores, a small Methodist church, which is used by different denominations, including the Congregationalists. It also has a commodious schoolhouse, with ample grounds. It is a strong temperance place and has a weekly temperance paper. The railroad depot is about one and one-fourth miles from the village, but the road, though hilly, is well worked. About the depot there is convenient room and good accommodations. We drove to the depot, and this finished our day's experience.

I omitted to mention that we called on the Rev. Mr. Palmer last evening, who came this morning, according to agreement, with his horse and carriage, to take us to see a place about three miles distant, of 150 acres, with large quantities of fruit of all kinds; probably more extensive than any 113 113 other in this place. The fruit consists of oranges, olives, figs, apples, apricots, peaches, plums and grapes. His olive orchard was the only one of any size which I saw during my stay in California. His place was all fenced in and under considerable improvement. About forty acres of it were in fruit. He offered the whole for sale for $12,000. We then drove nearly a mile further on, to what is called Old Fall Brook, where we saw some excellent lemons growing, and visited a fine live oak grove, which we found very pleasant, being located back of the proprietor's house. We stopped again on our return at Mr. Mitchel's place, where we received a sack of oranges. In the afternoon we drove out some distance into the country, in a southeasterly direction. We found the soil and improvements better than we had expected. The country was very sparsely settled, and we were surprised to see a little schoolhouse under a large tree, far from any other buildings. We found a bright school teacher and about fifteen scholars. I could hardly see where the children came from. We had intended to go to an ostrich farm, but on account of some change in the road, we could not go. Reached the village, on our return, about 4 p.m., and walked about the village with a real estate agent. Retired at 9 p.m.

This morning we continued our walk of last evening about the place. After breakfast, took a walk with Mr. Johnson to see a forty-acre piece of land about one and one-fourth miles south of the village, on a hill. This he wishes to sell. It appears to be cheap at the price at which it was offered. After some consultation between Mr. MacBeth and myself, we concluded to purchase it. We left the place on our return to San Jacinto at 9 a.m., over the same road which we passed in coming out. Having gained some familiarity with it, it did not seem quite as bad as before. Reached San Jacinto about 6 p.m. 114 114 We had sixty-five fine oranges apiece, which we brought from Mr. Mitchel's farm, and a few lemons. Mr. MacBeth also brought a branch full of olives, from an olive tree on the same farm.

Arose as usual, not feeling at all fatigued by yesterday's journey. Went to the village in the afternoon, and found papers from Emma.

Went to the village in the morning. Sent seven deeds to San Diego to be recorded with the County Clerk. Had my bankbook balanced at the San Jacinto bank. Also sent a deed for Mr. MacBeth, and one for Mr. Underwood, from Pasadena. In the afternoon I assisted Abie in setting out fruit trees and grape settings.

Spent the day in setting out grape vines and irrigating trees, etc. Rain threatens this evening. Mr. Willard's trunk arrived from Compton. Lillian's pet kid improves finely, and is quite cunning.

Attended church in the morning. Mr. McCunn's subject was on Nathan, the leper. Willard did not attend church this Sunday or the Sunday before. Abie's windmill brings large quantities of water, sufficient for all purposes. Much of it is conducted about in ditches, for irrigating the soil.

A moist, foggy morning. Received a letter from A. I. Mead; a paper from Clarence, and one from Emma, containing a copy of Oliver Mead's will. Abie got a load of wood.

Assisted Abie in building a post and board and wire fence, and in irrigating.

Went with Abie to the box factory to get a load of wood, which is all prepared for burning in the stove. Returned about 9 a.m. In the afternoon worked at fence and irrigating.

Received a letter from Frederick Mead. Received a deed from Mr. MacBeth for the twenty-acre piece. Irrigated trees till a shower came in the evening.

About three-eighths of an inch of rain fell last evening. Rode to the village in the morning. Sent a San Jacinto paper to Col. T. A. Mead, also one to Augustus I. Mead. Willard went to the village to see his doctor. Returned by way of the Stoddard place in order to see it. It is on Central avenue and is for sale. In the afternoon hoed potatoes and strawberries in the garden, etc. Abie put wire doors on his house to keep flies out.

Some more rain last night, which continued during the forenoon. Abie oiled harness. I overhauled papers and put things in order generally. Willard is not feeling as well as usual. Rode to the village in the afternoon. Found a letter in the office from Clarence, who is still in Orange. Left the deed from Mr. MacBeth with Mr. Kerr, to be sent to San Diego to be recorded in the county records. Bought stamped envelopes. Saw Mr. MacBeth about going to Fall Brook again, to finish up matters concerning the forty-acre tract of land we bought there together. Quite a cool snap.

Damp and chilly day. None of us went to church. Fire was kept in the fireplace, principally on Willard's account.

Yesterday's strong, damp wind has ceased but little. Signs of more rain. Abie had a fine colt added to his stock last night. Rode to the village and back this morning. Had an application to rent my cottage in the village.

Rode to the village with a Mr. Clark, who called at Abie's, and I walked back. While in town agreed on the rent of the cottage. Mr. Edwin Mead, wife and daughter Sarah, spent the day till about 3 p. m., at Abie's. Received a 116 116 letter from Emma and one from Benj. Wright, from Bridgeton, Me. Emma writes that Capt. Mayo died March 28. The coyotes were barking around the house in unusual numbers last night.

Rode to the village and repaired the roof of my barn. Drew $275 out of the bank to pay for my half of the lot at Fall Brook. Lease made out and signed for the lease of my house by W. H. Green, revokable by either of us by giving fifteen days' notice in writing. Rent, $8 per month, in advance. Returned by walking from the village. Abie is painting his house. Most of Abie's young trees are putting out buds and leaves, promising to live and grow.

Light rain last night. Left at 7 a.m. with Mr. MacBeth for Fall Brook to attend to unfinished business there. Proceeded on our way over the plains and over the same route we traveled before. Rain soon came upon us, but having a top buggy, we continued without any great discomfort, though we had the wind in our faces. The rain finally came on so hard that we turned into a barn, near a small house, in a narrow gorge in the mountains. The house was on one side of the road and the barn on the other. We put up our horse and buggy without permission. The man came out and invited us into the house, built up a good fire, which we enjoyed for an hour in drying and warming ourselves. He treated us in the usual hospitable California manner. Our horse was fed, and after eating our own lunch we proceeded on our way. This place, I judge, is about three miles from Temecula, in the mountains. We continued on our way, but the rain did not cease till we neared Fall Brook. We arrived at 4 p.m., and then went with the owner of the land to look at it more carefully than we had previously done. After this we returned to our hotel and hung up our overcoats to dry, and having a good fire and good company, made ourselves quite comfortable until about 10 p.m., when we retired.

We completed the purchase of the forty acres of land this morning. Also called on Mr. Palmer, and went to see a man who owns land near that which we bought, a Mr. Dorbin. It is quite a fine place, on elevated ground, about one mile southeast of the village. There were a good house and improvements. We then left Fall Brook on our return journey. The morning was pleasant, though there were some indications of rain. We found it necessary to use much caution and care while going over the mountains and through the mountain passes. Stopped at a place about ten miles this side of Fall Brook, called Vista, to call on Mr. Rainbow, who resides about half a mile from our route. He had a large quantity of bees, an orange orchard and some lemon trees, well lodged with fruit, olive trees, peach, apricots, apples, pears and fine vineyard of a number of acres. His wife showed us a box of excellent raisins of their own make. The vineyard is only four years from the cutting, and last year bore many tons of grapes of the best quality. Irrigation is not needed on account of the moisture which comes down from the mountains. All the suroundings and soil are peculiarly favorable for raising bees and fruits of all kinds. We can attest to the excellence of the oranges and raisins from our own experience. We spent an hour at this place. It became necessary to hasten, as we had about thirty miles to travel before night. Passed through some light showers. Finding an oak tree beside a stream of water, which runs between Vista and Temecula, we rested there for about half an hour. We gave our horse a bait of barley, ate our lunch, which consisted of cakes, cheese and canned apricots. Mr. MacBeth had brought a jar of the latter from home. From here we proceeded, making only one stop, at Mr. Carpenter's to give our horse water. This is fifteen miles from San Jacinto, and is our usual stopping place when we come this way. We reached the village of San 118 118 Jacinto about dusk, still having several miles to travel in the dark. But Mr. MacBeth being a good driver, we arrived at Abie's all right, the dogs giving warning as we neared the house.

Found that much rain had fallen in San Jacinto during our absence. In the afternoon I rode to the village and collected one month's rent, $8, from Mr. W. H. Green, for rent of house. Was told in the village that Mr. Estidillio had sold his large property, consisting of 11,000 acres of land, to a land company, most of the parties being from Louisiana, price $13,500. Returned from the village, after which I had a call from Mr. Stephen Mead, who took dinner with us. Willard is fast failing.

The damp, cloudy weather still continues. Willard seems to be sinking fast, and it was thought best to send for the doctor to see him. I made all possible haste in driving to the village for him. He came immediately, reaching Abie's nearly as soon as I did, but we found that Willard had passed away soon after I left, at 10 a.m. At 12 I left to make arrangements for the funeral, which is to be to-morrow at 2 p.m., at the house. Went first to see Mr. MacBeth, who has charge of the cemetery, to obtain a plot of ground. On my way called on Rev. Mr. McCunn, who agreed to attend the funeral to-morrow. From here we drove to the cemetery. I selected Lot No. 6, 20 feet square, price $5.00. We returned by an unusual route, across the plains, through Mr. Estidillio's gates, and arrived about 4 p.m. Mr. MacBeth came back with me, and we found his wife and Miss Sarah Mead there. Mr. and Mrs. MacBeth returned home, but left Miss Mead, who remained till after the funeral, to assist Mrs. Mead. Mr. MacBeth kindly agreed to supply conveyance for the coffin, and to attend to having the grave dug, which was done by his brothers-in-law, John and Stephen Mead. Mr. Butler, a 119 119 neighbor prepared the body for burial, and kindly offered to sit up half the night. He came accordingly, at about 8 p.m., but it was thought best to dispense with any watch, so he returned home about 10 p.m., and we all retired as usual. The deceased's name was William W. Willard, aged 25 years, and had no nearer relatives than cousins. He was a most estimable, worthy and able young lawyer of New York city. His complaint was catarrhal bronchial consumption, as pronounced by his doctor. He came to California in hope of being benefited by the climate. He had suffered from this trouble for about six years, and the disease had so fastened itself upon him that it had doubtless become incurable. On his way from New York he stopped at New Orleans for nine days, where he contracted a cold, which much aggravated his complaint, so that he was unable to speak in a louder tone than a whisper. He spent a few weeks at first in Compton, Cal. Receiving no benefit he decided to try a town further inland, and being acquainted with Abie and his wife, he wrote to them, asking if he might come there. They invited him to come. He reached there March 10th. For some weeks he seemed to grow no worse, but fully held his own while the dry, clear weather lasted. But after this, a damp, wet, chilly spell of weather came, which shut him in from walking and driving in the open air, and he gradually grew worse. This weather continued about a week or ten days, and he died on the last day. The next day of the funeral, it became clear and salubrious and continued so. His characteristics were those of a dignified, kind gentleman, always the same. Polite without affectation, with a clear discriminating mind which was well stored with legal knowledge, a person rarely to be equaled in these respects. "So fades the Summer cloud away,So dies the wave along the shore."

Last evening Miss Sarah Mead wrote several letters to different friends.

During the morning I assisted in getting ready for the funeral. The day being fine, there was a large attendance at the funeral, consisting of the best people in town. There were two deacons and a Sabbath-school superintendent. The text Mr. McCunn preached from was: "Blessed are the dead who die in the Lord, for they rest from their labors, and their works do follow them." Three hymns were sung by a quartet from the choir. One hymn was, "Nearer, My God, to Thee." The service was very appropriate. Fourteen carriages made up the procession to the grave, where we laid the body quietly to rest. A beautiful wreath and two other floral decorations were presented by the ladies and laid on the grave. We returned home about 6 p.m. On our return, and within a half mile of Abie's house, we saw a wild animal the size of a large dog. Within a few days I have seen flocks of birds which are new to me. They belong to the blackbird family and are very beautiful.

It is bright, clear weather, which promises to be permanent. Another colt was found this morning. Went to the mountain for stone to place at the corners of the tract of land near the brick yard. Also did the same with my two tracts on the mesa land.

Arose early and drove to the village to bring up a squaw, whom Mrs. Mead was expecting to wash for her, but she did not make her appearance, so I returned. About 9 a.m. I drove to the box factory with Abie, to get a load of wood, and returned at noon. As we did not succeed in getting the washer-woman we expected, Mrs. Inwall told Mrs. Mead about taking washing to the Indian village, where washing was done very nicely and satisfactorily, and she kindly offered to show us the way. So after dinner we set out together--Abie, Mrs. Mead, 121 121 Mrs. Inwall and myself, with a large bundle. On our way we crossed quite a wide river, on the other side of which the village is situated, at no great distance. The buildings in the village consisted mostly of adobe houses, with flat roofs. Saw no glass windows, except in the schoolhouse. They cultivate the soil to some extent, and have some fruit trees and vineyards. A small school at which we called is supported by the United States Government. It was after school hours, and the lady teacher invited us in. She said there were about fifty pupils on the roll. She spoke favorably of the scholarship and deportment of her pupils. She showed us some of their writing books and compositions, which were very creditable to the scholars. Both the men and women are employed as laborers by the people of the village. I suppose the land which they occupy belongs to them as a reservation. I have seen much of them about the village, but I have never seen one disorderly or intoxicated. Returned home about 6 p.m. Received a letter from Emma.

This morning I walked to the mountains where my land is, and went up to the top. Called on the man whose land joins on the south. Returned home about noon. In the afternoon I hoed in the garden, and about the trees, and puttied over the nail heads on the house, preparatory to painting.

Drove to the village to consult Mr. Kerr concerning the government section lines, and the land company's lines. He said we must go by the land company's lines. Returned about 11 a.m. In the afternoon I resumed my work of puttying. A Miss Caldwell, who lives north of the mountain, called on Mrs. Mead.

Mr. Swope came to take me to run out the line between his land and mine on the mesa. Starting at the east corner of my division, we measured 160 rods, the length of my land, in a straight line. Then, continuing on a straight line 122 122 on his division, we found at the end of his 160 rods the stake, which he had been unable to find before. So we thus settled the line between us, to the satisfaction of both parties, and relieved him of much perplexity about the matter. He brought me back to Abie's at 11 a.m., after being absent about three hours. In the afternoon I rode to the Indian village to get the clothes which I had left there to be washed. The water in the river had fallen considerably since we crossed the other day. The Spanish language is spoken by the Indians, except by the children, who are taught English. They do washing, but no ironing. Their price for washing is $1,00 per bundle of any size. Returned about 6 p.m. Called at Mr. Inwall's and Mr. Hallack's.

Attended church in the morning. Mr. McCunn's text was "The kingdom of heaven is like leaven, which a woman hid in three measures of meal till the whole was leavened." In the afternoon I called, with Mrs. Mead, on the Swopes and Caldwells, our nearest neighbors in the mountains. While we were away Mr. and Mrs. MacBeth called. Mr. Caldwell has a very fine spring in the side of the mountain, a few rods back of his house.

Drove with Abie and his wife to the Indian village, and thence to the hot spring. Stopped in the village and took dinner with Mr. MacBeth; received from the County Clerk's office the mortgage from Mr. MacBeth; also authorized him to act as an attorney for me in collecting the rent from my two lots, with houses, during this Summer.

Rode to the village; had bank book balanced and also left at the bank forty-three shares of stock of Fairview Land and Water Company for safe keeping. Mr. Kerr is to collect dividends, if there be any, on the same. A Mr. McKenzie, a cousin of Mr. Willard, who resides in Los Angeles, 123 123 came to Abie's this afternoon to make inquiries about the affairs of his cousin, who had recently died there. He is connected with the Young Men's Christian Association. I rode with him to the village and to the cemetery to see where his cousin was buried. We returned to Abie's, and he remained till the next morning.

Overhauled baggage and papers, putting them in shape to return East. Mr. McKenzie left on his return to Los Angeles this morning. His full name is Stuart McKenzie. Irrigated and attended to various other matters on the place. Abie is working with his team on the road for Mr. Inwall.

The morning is damp and foggy. I rode to the village for the last time before leaving. Saw Mr. MacBeth, Mr. Andersen, Mr. Parrh, Van Waters, Smith, Dr. Merchant, Kerr and others. Abie and his wife are busy to-day making preparations for their trip to Orange to-morrow. Abie and Mrs. Mead rode round to find some one to take charge of the place during their absence. After seeing several they met Mrs. Hallack and her son, with whom they made a satisfactory arrangement. They engaged board for Lillian at Mr. Edwin Mead's, which is convenient for her to the schoolhouse.

Left at 5 a.m. for Orange, by way of Riverside. Our wagon was well loaded with provisions for ourselves and feed for the horses during our absence. We drove to the north from Abie's, taking a short cut by the way of Webster's, to the right of the house, passing his copious springs of water. We passed through fields and gates rather uncertainly, but came out about right on Central avenue. We passed the house of Mr. Pico, a Mexican, I believe, which house is situated on an elevated spot. He has a large herd of cattle, some 1,200 head. We then passed a lake of considerable size, and the lime quarries and kilns, where lime is obtained for San Jacinto. Continuing 124 124 on our way we passed an immense herd of sheep, with shepherd and dogs. They belong to a man in Pleasant Valley, who is called a "greaser," because he is half Indian and half Spanish. Along our route there is very little cultivated soil, but nearly all is used for grazing purposes. We reached Box Springs, on the California Southern Railroad. From here to Riverside much more soil is under cultivation and dwellings are more frequent. It is four or five miles between the places. Soon the fine valley of Riverside, with its trees, buildings and improvements, came in sight. I observed many irrigating ditches. We reached the place about 11 a.m., thirty miles from San Jacinto. We camped here to feed our horses and eat our dinner. After dinner we walked about to see the place, and then continued on our way toward Orange. Our route lay through Magnolia avenue, which is said to be ten miles in length and 100 feet in width, with five rows of trees, one row in the centre and two rows on either side, with two driveways. The next place of any importance which we passed was South Riverside, about sixteen miles from Riverside. It is situated on one of the most beautiful plains I ever saw. It is quite a large place and has grown up within a few months, due to speculation by some land company, which has made quite a success of the enterprise. It has already a fine hotel and thirty houses, and is becoming quite popular. From here we proceeded to a place called Rincon, where we had planned to camp for the night. There was plenty of water and stable room for the horses. We reached this place a little after sundown. We found the overseer of a company in Riverside, which owns a large tract here, who received us in the usual hospitable manner. After giving proper attention to our horses and getting our supper we retired for the night.

About sunrise, after a refreshing night's rest, after caring for the horses and getting our breakfast, we started 125 125 at 8 a.m. I must mention the fact that we found another team and congenial company, who camped with us during the night. The company consisted of two doctors from Riverside, Dr. Ball and Dr. H. L. Macy. Rincon is a place with several hundred acres in vineyards, and has buildings for heating and curing raisins. Eleven thousand boxes of raisins are yearly marketed from this vineyard. As the railroad is being built from Riverside to Orange, and runs right through this vineyard, it has been laid out in town lots, which are put at high prices. Going on from this place, in sight of the Santa Ana River, which is graded on one side, our road lay on the other. It was narrow and cut through the sides of the mountains, too narrow for two carriages to pass. Occasionally turnouts have been made. The most careful driving was necessary in order to avoid accident. Within eight or nine miles of Orange we came to a large ditch leading from the river to supply the valley with water for irrigating. In this valley are the towns of Orange and Santa Ana. The water flows very slowly and steadily in this ditch. It is about twelve feet wide. Before reaching Orange we camped beside this ditch at a spot where there was plenty of grass for the horses, while we took dinner. This spot is about five miles out of the town. From here on we saw extensive vineyards along this ditch. We reached Orange about 2 p.m. After some inquiry we found the place of Clarence Mead's employer. Seeing a man at work in the fields, Abie left the carriage and found it to be Clarence. In the mean time I went in and saw Mr. Taft and his son, and was much pleased with the family and their place. Mrs. Mead, not wishing to wait, drove on to the Meads' place, about two miles distant. After spending a short time at Mr. Taft's, he took me down to the Meads' in his carriage, Clarence and Abie walking down. We found the Meads pleasantly situated, having about fifteen acres of ground under 126 126 good cultivation, mostly in vineyard and orange trees. Their place is three miles from the centre of the town, in a section of well-improved land, cut up into fifteen and twenty acre tracts, which were laid out mostly in vineyards and orange orchards, well supplied with water and free from frost.

A fine, clear morning. Did not go to church, but rode about the country most of the day with Abie and Clarence, not, however, without some hesitation. In the morning we drove to the east, up a can˜on, to an oak grove about eight miles distant, said to be a place much resorted to by picnic parties. In the afternoon we drove to Orange village.

We rode to Orange, Santa Ana and Tustin City, all fine, large villages. Santa Ana is the largest. The distance from Orange to Tustin is about nine miles. The whole country through Tustin City, which we passed, is under a very high state of cultivation, largely covered with orange orchards and vineyards. The orange trees are somewhat damaged in places by a scale bug. Occasionally a grape stand dies from what some call sour sap. An immense amount of capital has evidently been invested in the grape and orange culture in Southern California. Though the thermometer rose to 88 degrees, the weather was not at all oppressive.

Spent the forenoon on the Meads' place. David was busy trimming the dead branches from the Orange trees, and Theodore was drawing off the brush. There were about 200 orange, 2 lemon, 200 apricot, about 30 English walnut, some peach and apple trees. In the afternoon we left on our return to Riverside, over the same route by which we came. Clarence goes back with us for a week's visit with Abie at San Jacinto. Left Orange at 1.30 p.m. We proceeded on our way without any incident of special interest. Reached Rincon, the place where we stopped before, a little after sundown. After getting 127 127 our supper in a dry sluiceway, we retired for the night.

Arose before the sun and prepared our morning meal. One of our horses becoming somewhat ill, we had to proceed from Rincon at a slow rate, so that it took from 5 a.m. till 11 a.m. to travel eighteen miles. On entering the village we called on one of the doctors whom we met on our trip out. He invited us in, and as we could not stop, he picked us some oranges from his orchard and put them in the carriage. Abie put up his horses in a livery stable, and we took our dinner at the Rowell Hotel. I then hunted around and found a ticket agent, who was agent for an excursion party to start from Los Angeles. From him I bought a ticket through to New York for $62.50. After bidding good-bye to Abie and Mrs. Mead and to Clarence, I started on the train at 1.40 p.m. We reached Colton at 2.15 and had to wait till 4 p.m. for the train on the Southern Pacific Railroad. Left Colton for Los Angeles, passing through Ontario and several other fine villages until we reached Los Angeles at 7 p.m. After waiting here about an hour we left for Sacamento via the Southern Pacific Railroad. There being a large number of passengers on the train, there was some difficulty in finding berths, but all were finally accommodated.

Reached Tulare about 9 a.m. The train was one hour behind time. The train consisted of fourteen cars. We stopped here for breakfast. I unexpectedly met a Mr. Sayers and wife, from San Jacinto, with whom I was acquainted, and was much pleased to find them. They were going back to their former home in Ohio for a visit. Passed Merced about noon. The car I was in was sleeper 26, Southern Pacific Railroad. The train stopped at Lathrop at 3.30 p.m. for dinner. Reached Sacramento at 6 p.m. and left at 7 p.m. I retired at 9 p.m.

Stopped for dinner at Humboldt. There is some 128 128 sprinkle of rain and considerable snow is seen on the mountains. Stopped for supper at Reno, Nev.

Came in view of the north end of Salt Lake about sunrise. Arranged baggage for the change of cars at Ogden, from the Central Pacific to the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. Our party was made up of over 100, whose object was sightseeing and enjoyment on their excursion. They were kind and helpful toward each other. Reached Ogden at 9 a.m. We had to wait about two hours to make up a train, on account of the extra number of passengers. We left for Salt Lake City at 11 a.m. After reaching Salt Lake City we took a walk around. I observed a large concourse of people going through the gates up to the Mormons' Winter Temple. I passed along in with the crowd. I found the building packed with men, women and children. It appeared to be an annual church business meeting. Reports were made for different branches and officers appointed for the various wards and institutions of the church, Sabbath-school teachers, missionaries, etc., to the number of two or three hundred. The nominations were made by the leading members beforehand. No one nominated made any objection to serving, and no remarks were made on the nominations. The presiding officer always led the voting, which was done by uplifted hands, and there was no opposing. Women and children appeared to vote fully as much as men. The services were quite lengthy, interspersed by singing and prayer, and an address by their delegate to Congress, who said that the acts of Congress directed against them did not amount to anything. He gave an account of an interview with the President, in which the President said he did not approve of all that Congress had done. He was satisfied that the President was well disposed toward them. Left at 7.30 p.m. for Denver. We ran through the night and reached Greene River at 6 a.m.

Stopped at this place forty-five minutes for breakfast, having run 190 miles during the night, from Salt Lake City. My watch in California was three and one-half hours behind San Francisco time, but at this place it is only two and one-quarter hours behind. We reached Grand Junction about 12 midnight, 425 miles from Denver. Left at 7 a.m. We averaged eighteen miles an hour without stops. Our road followed the Grand River for a long distance. Passed Montrose in going up the Grand Can˜on. Much snow on the mountains. At 4.45 p.m. we are passing through the Black Can˜on, sixteen miles in length. It is very grand and inspiring. We now have sixteen miles in which to asend a mountain at a grade of between 200 and 300 feet to the mile, accomplishing it in a zig-zag course. There are two engines and only four cars. Stopped at Salida at 10 p.m., where we remained until next morning.

Left this place at 7 a.m. for Denver. The descent of the mountain was 3,808 feet in twenty-five miles. The party consists of 120 persons, mostly from Riverside and Pasadena. Crossed a bridge where the cars had stopped for thirty minutes to permit the passengers to get out and walk across, to see the most grand and beautiful scenery in the world. Rocks on either side rising perpendicularly for 500 feet, some even projecting over our heads, with space between them only for the Arkansas River and a narrow gauge road. The distance through the canon is ten miles, and the name of the canon is the Royal Gorge of the Arkansas. After emerging from the canon we came out to a place called Can˜on City. Noticed the State prison at the place. Here the train stopped by the side of three celebrated mineral springs, to give the company an opportunity to get out and drink of the water. I drank nearly three cups of it, and found the taste to resemble that of some of the springs at Saratoga. Snow is plenty on many of the mountains. 130 130 Vegetation is not yet much advanced. Cattle are poor. I presume that forage has been scarce and that they have passed through a hard Winter. We passed through Pueblo. Observed that the Santa Fe´ is building a parallel road from Pueblo to Denver, a distance of 114 miles. The best part of Colorado, which I have seen, lies between Can˜on City and Pueblo. I saw also some fine stone quarries. Reached Denver at 6 p.m. Changed from the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad to the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy Railroad. Left at 10 p.m. for Chicago.

Passed many flourishing towns in Nebraska, on what was once called a barren desert. The Pacific and Western States appear to produce considerable coal. Observed a large increase in villages, both in size and numbers, since I passed through four years ago. Reached the Missouri River at about 7 p.m. Crossed over and stopped at the station called Pacific Junction. Here I changed a ticket from Chicago to New York. Train left for Chicago in about thirty minutes. Retired early. Train is somewhat behind time, and runs very fast, forty-five or fifty miles per hour.

Reached Bennington at an early hour. After a short stop we crossed the Mississippi River. The country looks charming, as we pass along, from its freshness and luxuriance of vegetation. Reached Chicago at 2 p.m. Here the excursion party broke up and dispersed in different directions. We had to wait here till 6 p.m. for our train on the Lake Shore & New York Central Railroad, giving us six hours for going about the city. We left at 6 p.m. and reached Toledo at 5 a.m.

Passed through the "Western Reserve," or Northern Ohio. It has the appearance of a rich, thrifty section. Although I have had a favorable opinion of Northern Ohio, still it exceeded my expectations. We are passing through fine villages and cities. Arrived at Buffalo at 4 p.m. Immediately made my way to the New York Central cars, which left at 4.20 p.m. Reached New York city at 6 a.m.

Took the 8 a.m. train on the New Haven Railroad, and reached home after 9 a.m. Busy throughout the day.