%images; ]> calbk-149 Notes of a voyage to California via Cape Horn, together with scenes in El Dorado, in the years of 1849-'50. With an appendix containing reminiscences ... together with the articles of association and roll of members of "The associated pioneers of the territorial days of California." By Samuel C. Upham. With forty-five illustrations: a machine-readable transcription. "California as I Saw It": First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress. Selected and converted. American Memory, Library of Congress

Washington, DC, 1993.

Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.

For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.

 rc01-827 Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress. Copyright status not determined; refer to accompanying matter.

The National Digital Library Program at the Library of Congress makes digitized historical materials available for education and scholarship.

This transcription is intended to have an accuracy of 99.95 percent or greater and is not intended to reproduce the appearance of the original work. The accompanying images provide a facsimile of this work and represent the appearance of the original.

 1994/01/15 2000/11/01
1

2 3

NOTES OF A

VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA

VIA CAPE HORN,

TOGETHER WITH

SCENES IN EL DORADO,

IN THE YEARS 1849-'50.

WITH AN APPENDIX

Containing Reminiscences of Pioneer Journalism in California—California Day at the Centennial Exhibition, Philadelphia, Sept. 9th, 1876—Re-Unions and Banquets of the Associated Pioneers of California, in New York, January 18th, 1877 and 1878—Celebration of Admission Day, at Long Branch, N. J., Sept. 8th, 1877—

Reception to GENERAL JOHN C. FREMONT, Aug. 1st, 1878 and to Hon. PHILIP A. ROACH, June 19th, 1876—Dedication of the Lick Monument at Fredericksburg, Pa., April 22d, 1878—Extracts from the Manuscript Journal of the “KING's ORPHAN,” in the year 1843—Pioneer and Kindred Organizations;

TOGETHER WITH THE

ARTICLES OF ASSOCIATION AND ROLL OF MEMBERS

OF

“THE ASSOCIATED PIONEERS OF THE TERRITORIAL DAYS OF CALIFORNIA.”

By SAMUEL C. UPHAM.

WITH FORTY-FIVE ILLUSTRATIONS. “ALL OF WHICH I SAW, AND PART OF WHICH I WAS.”

PHILADELPHIA:

PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR.

1878.

4

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1878, by

SAMUEL C. UPHAM,

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C.

PRESS OF

FRANKLIN PRINTING HOUSE,

38 HUDSON STREET.

5

TO THE

PIONEERS OF CALIFORNIA,

WHO ENCOUNTERED DANGERS BY FLOOD AND FIELD,

AND WHOSE

BRAVE HEARTS AND WILLING HANDS

HAVE CAUSED THE ARID PLAIN AND THE WILDERNESS TO

“BLOSSOM AS THE ROSE,”

THIS VOLUME IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED BY

THE AUTHOR.

6 viii
ACKNOWLEDGMENT.

To his esteemed personal friends, MR. FRANCIS D. CLARK and HON. JEREMIAH SHERWOOD, of New York; MR. COLIN M. BOYD, MR. WILLIAM WINTER, HON. PHILIP A. ROACH and DANIEL NORCROSS, Esq., of San Francisco, for their efforts in behalf of this volume; to the HON. DEMAS STRONG, of Brooklyn, N.Y., for his proffer of pecuniary aid; to the proprietors of the Examiner and the Golden Era, of San Francisco; The Pioneer, of San José, and the News, of San Diego, Cal., who published in their respective journals the Prospectus of this book, and especially to the following-named gentlemen, who had the courage to read the manuscript, comprising six hundred closely-written pages, the author returns his grateful acknowledgments:

Having been residents of California during the years 1849-'50, we cheerfully indorse the work written by Mr. Samuel C. Upham, of Philadelphia, and consider the volume in all respects a truthful and creditable history of that period in California, and of such a character as should especially interest all who formed a part of her population in those days of excitement and experience.

H. G. GIBSON, Brevet Brig.-Gen'l, U.S.A., Fort Wadsworth, N.Y.

THOS. W. SWEENY, “ “ “ 314 East 120th Street, N.Y.

DEMAS STRONG, 67 Broadway, Brooklyn, E.D.

JOHN SICKELS, 25 Pine Street, N.Y.

EDWARD F. BURTON, Deputy Surveyor, Custom-House, N.Y.

JOHN GAULT, 71 Broadway, N.Y.

BEVERLY C. SANDERS, 71 Broadway, N.Y.

W. C. ANNAN, 160 Fulton Street, N.Y.

WM. M. WALTON, 19 Dey Street, N.Y.

STEPHEN L. MERCHANT, 53 Broadway, N.Y.

ROBERT W. DOWLING, 105th St. and Eleventh Ave., N.Y.

A. T. GOODELL, 451 East 57th Street, N.Y.

GEO. F. SNIFFEN, Sec'y Knickerbocker Life Ins. Co., N.Y.

7 ix
PREFACE.

PREFACE—the last part of a book written and the first read. A book without a preface is like a coach without horses—an engine without steam.

When the news of the discovery of gold in California reached the Atlantic States, in the summer of 1848, I held a somewhat lucrative situation in the counting-house of a mercantile firm in the city of Brotherly Love. The early reports were of so vague a character as scarcely to be credited by the most enthusiastic, and were pronounced by the skeptical as visionary—schemes gotten up by the powers at Washington to encourage emigration to California and Oregon. But when, in the fall of that year, the dispatches of Commodore Jones, Colonel Mason and Thomas O. Larkin were officially announced by President Polk's Cabinet, and their statements indorsed by the President himself, soon after, in his message to both Houses of Congress, the existence of the gold-mines of California was acknowledged a fixed fact, and thousands started at once for the new El Dorado, and among them the reader's humble servant. When I resigned the quill for “the pick and the spade,” it was my intention to have gone to California via the Isthmus of Panama, but on the eve of my departure, a communication appeared in the New York Herald, in which the writer depicted in such vivid colors the “hair-breadth 'scapes” by that route, that 8 x I abandoned my original intention and engaged passage via Cape Horn.

My time, during the two weeks prior to my departure, was mostly employed in making the necessary arrangements for the voyage. Expecting to remain at least one year in the gold-diggings, I purchased and shipped the requisite provisions for my subsistence during that time. I also stowed away in a large camp-chest, purchased expressly for that purpose, sundry dozens of flannel and “hickory” shirts, several pairs of inexpressibles, half a dozen hats, of the latest California styles, one of Krider's incomparable rifles, a six-shooter, with ammunition to match, and last, though not least, one of those indispensable articles in a new country—an Arkansas “tooth-pick.” As I was on the eve of starting, I added to my outfit a chest of medicine, accompanied by a book containing directions, which, if strictly adhered to, would cure all the ills which flesh is heir to. My mining implements consisted of a pick, spade and crowbar, a nest of sieves, a large tin pan and three patent gold-washers, each of a different pattern—first-class humbugs! I also purchased an India-rubber water-proof suit—which was anything else than what it purported to be—consisting of coat, cap, long boots and gauntlets, together with a tent of the same material, another proof of the old adage—a fool and his money are soon parted. But I was not alone in my folly. Many of my fellow-voyagers were equally burthened with “traps,” which, on their arrival in California, proved to be quite as useless.

I do not claim for these Reminiscences any great literary merit, nor do I expect to “put money in my purse” by their publication. They have been written amid the hurly-burly of a busy mercantile life, from notes taken at the time the incidents treated of transpired—their principal merit being a narration of facts, not fancies. I have devoted considerable 9 xi space to the early history of Sacamento City, where, during the spring and summer of 1850, I was engaged in the publication of the Sacramento Transcript, and from the columns of that journal I have made frequent drafts. Should the reader become weary of the monotony of the long sea-voyage, let him turn to the portrayal of scenes in Rio de Janeiro or Concepcion, or to the more stirring events in Sacramento City, during the Squatter riots in the month of August, 1850. In conclusion, permit me to say, should anything in this volume add to the hitherto unwritten history of California, my labor will not have been in vain; and I will also state, that throughout these pages my chief aim has been to “A round, unvarnished tale deliver, Nothing extenuate, nor set down aught in malice.”

SAMUEL C. UPHAM.

Philadelphia, October 5 th, 1878.

10 11 xiii
CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I. The departure—Scramble to get on board—Last night on terra firma —Names of passengers—Departure from the Break-water—Discharge the pilot—Paying tribute to old Neptune—Storm at sea—Deck-load thrown overboard—Humorous incident—Brandy vs. Pilot-bread—Dissatisfaction among the steerage passengers—Captain Fairfowl shows his teeth—One of the sailors flogged—Mother Cary's chickens. 23 CHAPTER II. Cruising in the tropics—Cabin passengers have a jollification—Cross the equator—Visit the bark Croton —Dissecting a shark—Passengers present a petition to Captain Fairfowl—A duel in embryo—Celebration of Washington's Birthday—Steerage passengers on short allowance—Gambling on board—Welcome visitors—Land, ho!—Enter the harbor of Rio de Janeiro—Impressions on beholding it—First hour on shore. 40 CHAPTER III. City of Rio de Janeiro—Visit to the market—Mode of nursing children in Rio—The Passeio Publico—Rare plants and flowers—Butchery of Santa Lucia—View of the city from Telegraph Hill—The Theatre San Januaria—Trick of the manager—A night on a dilapidated sofa—Emperor's church—Interior decorations—Yankee mercantile house in Rio—Visit to Praya Grande—The Frenchman and his orange grove—Visit to the Navy Yard—Scene at the guard-house—Convent of St. Benedict—Funeral ceremony—Mode of interment. 61

12 xiv

CHAPTER IV. Visit to the museum—Precious stones, medals, etc.—Observance of the Sabbath in Rio—Washerwomen of the Campo Santa Anna—Visit to the Academy of Fine Arts—Paintings and sculpture—The Strangers' Burial-ground—Hot-corn women—American ladies bound for California—The Emperor's palace and garden—Visit to the latter—The Emperor's juvenile sports—Second night at the theatre—Dom Pedro II and Donna Therese—Slaves in Rio—Arrival of gold-dust from California—Arrival of the steam-ship Panama—News from home—California-bound vessels in Rio. 76 CHAPTER V. Departure from Rio—Vessels bound for El Dorado—Auction sale at sea—A pampero —Its consequences—Putting a little whisky where it would do the most good—Hail-storm—Raffle for a monkey—Melee between a passenger and the steward—School of porpoises—Sudden change in the atmosphere—Its effects—All hands on an allowance of water—Horrors of a passage around Cape Horn subsiding—All-Fools' Day—“The Perseverance Mining Company”—Articles of agreement. 92 CHAPTER VI. Another gale—Salt-water coffee—Cabin stove broken—Another hail-storm—Terra del Fuego—Staten Land by moonlight—Double Staten Land—Death of Jocko, the sailors' pet—Furious gale off Cape Horn—The cook's galley cap-sized—Cabin passengers on a jamboree—Another gale—Drifting about in the region of icebergs—Raw pork and hard-tack—Fresh provisions all gone—Novel method of obtaining fresh grub at sea—Double Cape Horn—Boxing the compass—Passengers volunteer to stand watch—Capture of an albatross. 107 CHAPTER VII. Another severe gale—Swollen limbs—Is it scurvy?—Captain and mate have a growl—Fight between two passengers—One of the passengers celebrates his birthday—Gambling on board, and the Captain's mode of suppressing it—Fair 13 xv wind once more—Passengers again on deck—Punishing a ship's boy—Passengers object to putting into Talcahuana—Anchors gotten over the bow—Passengers watching for land—Make the coast of Chili—Head-wind—Driven out to sea. 123 CHAPTER VIII. Put into the wrong harbor—Passengers go ashore—Reception by the natives of De Chatta—Deserters—Dine with the Alcalde—Ascertain our whereabouts, and start for Talcahuana—Scenery en route —Chilian peasantry—Their respect for the dead—Primitive wine-press and threshing-machine—Quarter of a century later—Henry Meiggs—His arrival in Chili—Brief sketch of his eventful life—Peace to his ashes. 139 CHAPTER IX. Arrive at Tome—Dog-meat vs. mutton—Embark in a whale-boat for Talcahuana—The Red Lion and its landlord—The Señoritas —A night on a dining-table—The market—Coal mines—Feast on muscles—Funeral of a whaleman—Chilian fandango—Chilians, male and female—Females making their toilet—Passengers arrive from De Chatta—Arrival of the Osceola in the harbor of Talcahuana—Breach of the Marine Laws of Chili—Threatened confiscation of the brig—Visit to the city of Concepcion—California-bound vessels in Talcahuana—Funeral procession—Visit to the Paps. 153 CHAPTER X. Description of Talcahuana—Theft of a water-cask—Punishment of the culprit—Our indebtedness to Captain Finch—The American consul—Departure from Talcahuana—Scene in the harbor—Gambling on board—Salt-water dumplings—Becalmed—Increase in the price of mining implements—General washday—Magnificent scene—Passengers on an exploring expedition—Set-to between the Captain and cook—First knockdown for the cook—Sugar served out pro rata. 167

14 xvi

CHAPTER XI. Sunday at sea—Light and baffling winds—Man-of-war birds shot—Fresh pork—Canchalagua pills—Passengers on their muscle—Crossing the equator—Old Neptune initiates one of the sailors—Bed-bugs and fleas—Our old skipper under the weather—Fourth of July at sea—Jolly time and no whisky—Ship ahoy!—Visit from the passengers of the ship Pacific —We treat them to salt pork and hard-tack—Later news from the land of gold—Captain Fairfowl has the dumps. 183 CHAPTER XII. Our last porker slaughtered—Cold weather in the tropics—Off Lower California—The Captain predicts a fair wind—Will wine vinegar inebriate?—Provisions and water scarce—Head-winds—First mate ordered below—Encounter a squall—The cook and cabin steward have a free fight—Fog and Scotch mist—Drift-wood—Brig ahoy!—Visit from the mate of the brig Spencer —Land ho!—Farallone Islands—Come to anchor outside the Golden Gate. 199 CHAPTER XIII. Pass through the Golden Gate and come to anchor in the harbor of San Francisco—Visit the town—The Bank-Street dry-goods dealer—Recapitulation of the voyage—Scene at the post-office—Happy Valley—Leave the Osceola —Intelligence from the mines—San Francisco as it was—Crime and its punishment—The Parker House and its gambling-tables—Climate of San Francisco—Start for the mines—Mosquitoes and tules —Arrival at Stockton—Stockton in '49— En route to the mines. 214 CHAPTER XIV. First day and night on the road—Digger Indians—The surprise—Badly frightened—“Song of the Gold-Digger”—The wrong road—Arrival at the “diggins”—Commence operations—The result—Rich “diggings” reported—Start on a prospecting tour—Return disgusted—Discovery of a rich bar—Commence operations—Sickness of the Author—Return to Stockton—Leave Stockton for San 15 xvii Francisco—Changes wrought in two months—Canvass for a newspaper route—The Pacific News —Its early history. 239 CHAPTER XV. First State election—The winning candidates—“Fire! fire! fire!”—A million dollars' worth of property destroyed—“Big Ames's” report of the conflagration—An eccentric judge—Muddy streets—First vocal entertainment in San Francisco—Early theatricals—“Them literary fellers”—Terrence McVerdant—“A rallying song for the gold-diggers.” 262 CHAPTER XVI. Locate in Sacramento City—The Sacramento Transcript —First election in Sacramento—Three tickets in the field—Names of the city and county officers elected—Meeting of the Council-elect—Demas Strong chosen President—He makes a speech—Adjourned meeting of Council—Mayor Bigelow's message read and accepted—First message of the first Mayor of Sacramento City. 275 CHAPTER XVII. First conflagration in Sacramento City—Amount of property destroyed—Collation given to the fire department by Mayor Bigelow—Henri Herz, the French composer and pianist—His concerts in Sacramento City—First negro minstrel performance in Sacramento—Rowe's Olympic Circus—Grand soiree—Rival politicians—First meeting of the I.O. of O.F. in Sacramento City—The Masons and Odd Fellows establish a hospital—Sutter Lodge of Ancient York Masons—Private hospitals—First public marriage in Sacramento—The Placer Times —Colonel Joseph E. Lawrence. 289 CHAPTER XVIII. Commercial advantages of Sacramento City—New buildings—First daily issue of the Transcript —The Placer Times follows suit—Sell my interest in the Transcript to Mr. G. C. Weld—Death of Mr. Weld—Tribute to his memory—Captain John A. Sutter—Sutter's Fort—Attack on the Fort by the Indians—They are repulsed—Hock Farm. 307

16 xviii

CHAPTER XIX. Grand entertainment given at Hock Farm by Captain Sutter—Full report of the affair—Letter from Thomas O. Larkin—Mr. Francis D. Clark and others resolve that one man is as good as another, provided he behaves himself—The glorious Fourth—Its first celebration in Sacramento City—“The Ancient Order of Bricks” and the Sons of Temperance publish their programmes of exercises—A jolly Fourth of July. 323 CHAPTER XX. Land-titles in Sacramento City—The squatters organize and mean business—Buildings erected by the squatters demolished—The squatters hold incendiary meetings and declare war to the knife—Assessor Woodland and Sheriff McKinney killed and Mayor Bigelow dangerously wounded—Burial of Assessor Woodland and Sheriff McKinney—The citizens organize military companies—Relief for the overland emigrants—Farewell to Sacramento City. 333 CHAPTER XXI. Down the Sacramento on the steamer Senator —San Francisco in the fall of 1850—Farewell, San Francisco—Homeward bound—The steamer Columbus —Captain Peck—Incidents on board—Arrival at Acapulco—Scenes on shore—Conflict of authority—Overland emigrants via City of Mexico—Arrival at Panama—Go ashore pig-a-back—Immersion without the benefit of clergy—Panama in 1850—Two of the Columbus's passengers die of cholera. 354 CHAPTER XXII. Leave Panama—To Cruces on mule back—Down the Chagres River in a bungo —Deaths by cholera en route —Mr. and Mrs. Gillingham—Go on board the steamship Falcon —Deaths by cholera—Burial at sea—Arrival at Havana—An afternoon and night on shore—Take passage on the steamship Ohio for New York—Arrival at New York—Departure for Philadelphia—Home again. 370

17 xix

APPENDIX. PIONEER JOURNALISM IN CALIFORNIA. The Pacific News —Its editors and proprietors—“Boston,” alias”Big Ames”—First newspaper published in California—The Alta California—Sacramento Transcript and Placer Times —The Golden Era —Bret Harte, Mark Twain and Prentice Mulford—San Francisco Picayune, Courier and Herald —Marysville Herald —Stockton Times —Sonora Herald. 385 “CALIFORNIA DAY” AT THE CENTENNIAL EXHIBITION. Preliminary meeting in New York—Committee appointed—Rev. Albert Williams addresses the meeting—Programme of exercises—'Forty-niners and other Californians present—Distinguished guests—Addresses by Hon. Rodman M. Price, Generals H. G. Gibson and Joe Hooker, Governor Curtin, General Sutter, Governor Hartranft and Colin M. Boyd—“Song of the Argonauts”—The banquet—Fire! fire!—Telegrams sent to San Francisco. 398 SECOND ANNUAL RE-UNION AND BANQUET OF “THE ASSOCIATED PIONEERS OF THE TERRITORIAL DAYS OF CALIFORNIA.” Committee of Arrangements—Report of Secretary and Treasurer Clark—Election of officers—The banquet—President Gibson's address—Addresses by General Thomas D. Johns, Joseph S. Spinney, Clark Bell, Colonel James M. Turner, Samuel C. Upham and Colonel John A. Godfrey. 424 CELEBRATION OF “ADMISSION DAY” AT LONG BRANCH, N. J. Programme of exercises—Pioneers present—The banquet—General Gibson's address of welcome—Introduction of General Sutter—Letters of regret—Mayor McKune's address—General Sutter's response—Poem—“The Land We Adore”—Bayard Taylor speaks a piece—“Song of the Argonauts”—Hop in the evening in honor of General Sutter—Telegram sent to California—The reply. 438

18 xx

THIRD ANNUAL RE-UNION AND BANQUET OF “THE ASSOCIATED PIONEERS OF THE TERRITORIAL DAYS OF CALIFORNIA.” Secretary and Treasurer Clark's report—President Gibson's annual address—Election of officers for the current year—The banquet—Programme of exercises—General H. G. Gibson's address of welcome—Letters of regret—Prentice Mulford's address—Speeches by Judge Pratt, Colonel T. B. Thorpe, Colonel Edward F. Burton, Clark Bell, J. J. McCloskey, Colonel Joe Lawrence, Hon. Demas Strong, Joseph S. Spinney, Francis D. Clark and General Thomas D. Johns—“Ye Ancient Yuba Miner”—Notables present—“Song of the Argonauts”—Good-night. 456 RECEPTION TO GENERAL JOHN C. FREMONT. Formal reception by General Fremont—Notables present—Decorations of the hall—The banquet—Vice-President Gibson's address of welcome—General Fremont's response—Letters of regret read by the Secretary—Speeches, etc. 482 RECEPTION TO HON. PHILIP A. ROACH. The banquet—General H. Gates Gibson's address of welcome—Senator Roach's response—Letters of regret—Notables present—Speeches, etc. 497 DEDICATION OF THE LICK MONUMENT AT FREDERICKSBURG, PA. En route to Fredericksburg—Reminiscences of the town—Genealogy of the Lick family—The house in which James Lick was born—The old graveyard—Cedar Hill Cemetery—Unveiling and dedication of the monument—Addresses by Colonel J. P. S. Gobin, of Lebanon, and Samuel C. Upham, of Philadelphia—Knights Templar inauguration ceremonies. 504 Making and raising the “Bear Flag.” 563 Pioneer Organizations. 566 “Truckee,” the Indian Guide. 568 “The Land We Adore,”—Song and chorus. 570 A tribute to Gen. Jno. A. Sutter, and a touching reply. 573 History of the inauguration and organization of the Associated Pioneers of the Territorial Days of California. 575

19 xxi
ILLUSTRATIONS.

*

The illustrations in this volume are from Original Sketches, Daguerreotypes, Photographs, the “Annals of San Francisco,” and “California Illustrated.” The two latter were published soon after the discovery of gold in California, and are now nearly out of print. Dr. John H. Gihon, a Philadelphian, and one of the authors of the “ Annals of San Francisco,” died in one of the Southern States, three or four years ago. Frank Soulé and James Nisbet, his associates, are, I believe, still living in San Francisco. Mr. J. M. Letts, author of “ California Illustrated,” is a resident of Staten Island, N. Y. The illustrations of San Francisco, Sacramento City, Stockton and the mining scenes were re-drawn and enlarged by Mr. F. E. Lummis, and engraved by David Scattergood. The Portraits were engraved by David Scattergood and C. H. Reed.

Portrait of the Author, Preceding Frontispiece.

1. Portrait and Autograph of Gen. Sutter, Frontispiece.

PAGE

2. Harbor of Rio Janeiro, 57

3. Mode of Nursing Children in Rio, 62

4. General View of Rio Janeiro, 65

5. Portrait of Dom Pedro II, Emperor of Brazil, 85

6. The Osceola in a Gale off Cape Horn, 113

7. Portrait and Autograph of Henry Meiggs, 143

8. Entrance to the Golden Gate, 215

9. Beach of Yerba Buena Cove, 1849, 219

10. Post-office, 1849, 219

11. The “Hounds” on a Rampage, 223

12. Parker House and Dennison's Exchange, 1849, 227

13. Interior of El Dorado Saloon, 1850, 227

14. Sutter's Saw-Mill, Coloma, 1849, 231

15. City of Stockton, Fall of 1849, 235

16. On the Road to the Mines, 241

20 xxii

17. Miners at Work, 1849, 247

18. Mining Scene, 1849, 251

19. San Francisco, Winter of 1849-'50, 255

20. “Old Adobe” Custom-house, 1849-'50, 263

21. Old School-house, opposite the Plaza, 269

22. Muddy Streets, Winter of 1849-'50, 269

23. Encampment at the “ Embarcadero,” Sacramento, 1849, 305

24. Sacramento City, 1850, 311

25. Sutter's Fort, 1849, 319

26. East Side Plaza, 1850, 355

27. Departure of a Steamship, Fall of 1850, 359

28. Pacific Coast Centennial Hall, 401

29. Portrait and Autograph of Mr. Francis D. Clark, 433

30. Ye Ancient Yuba Miner of the Days of '49, 475

2 Silhouette Illustrations of Ye Ancient Yuba Miner, 476

2 “ “ “ “ “ “ 477

2 “ “ “ “ “ “ 478

1 “ “ “ “ “ “ 479

38. Portrait and Autograph of James Lick, 507

39. “ “ John H. Lick, 511

40. Lick Monument, Fredericksburg, Pa., 517

41. Fort and Port of San Francisco, 1843, 539

42. Military Barracks of San Francisco, 1843, 543

43. Town and Port of Yerba Buena, in San Francisco Bay, 1843, 553

44. Russian Fort Ross, Bodega, California, 1843, 557
21 23
CHAPTER I.

The departure—Scramble to get on board—Last night on terra firma —Names of passengers—Departure from the Break-water—Discharge the pilot—Paying tribute to old Neptune—Storm at sea—Deck-load thrown overboard—Humorous incident—Brandy us. Pilot-bread—Dissatisfaction among the steerage passengers—Captain Fairfowl shows his teeth—One of the sailors flogged—Mother Cary's chickens.

Monday, January 15, 1849.—

Carried my baggage on board the brig Osceola, Captain James Fairfowl, bound from Philadelphia to San Francisco, California. At eleven o'clock, P.M., bade adieu to wife, child and friends, and went on board the brig to spend the night, expecting to sail early the next morning. The weather being cold, and no fire in cabin or steerage, I slept very little during the night. Two brothers of the name of Kelly, companions en voyage, accompanied me on board.

Tuesday, Jan. 16.—

At eight o'clock, A.M., the City Ice-boat made fast to the Osceola, and we were soon passing slowly down the Delaware. In consequence of the early hour at which we got under way, not more than one-half of our passengers were on board when the Ice-boat made fast to us. We had not, however, gotten fairly into the stream, before the belated passengers might be seen at different points along the wharves, swinging their hats and 22 24 caps, and yelling at the highest pitch of their voices for the Osceola to slacken her speed and take them on board. One of the passengers, a corpulent individual, whom I shall designate as the Doctor, went shouting along the wharves until his safety-valve collapsed, and his steam and gas having become exhausted, he availed himself of the facilities offered by a boatman and came on board wheezing like a person afflicted with the asthma. Passengers came off to the brig at different points along the Delaware between Race Street and the Navy Yard, and at the latter place the last straggler arrived.

The following is a list of the Osceola's passengers: Dr. Cassady, William Bassett, W. H. Bunn, Wm. Freed, H. W. Gillingham, C. H. Bennett, J. Slaughter, A. Mecartney, W. McPherson Hill, George Guier, Jr., M. D., John A. Lessig, Pat. Langton, George W. Hart, C. W. H. Solinsky, Abram Powell, Wm. H. Graham, John E. Wain-wright, G. H. Weaver, T. P. Kleinhaus, W. Wack, T. P. Dougherty, T. B. Butcher, Wm. Butcher, T. H. Russell, S. K. Harman, Samuel Christ, H. B. Good, J. J. Cowden, J. A. Banks, Samuel C. Upham, Amos S. Kelly, Chas. S. Kelly, J. W. Folwell, T. J. Folwell, J. M'Clelland, David L. Munns, E. Boehme, Henry Prior, H. Shoenfield, H. Courvoisier, F. Dekirt, W. Arnold, J. Falls, John A. McCoy, J. Kellum, William Beenkin, C. Beenkin, F. Miller, J. Kimmell, J. Moore, J. Kepheldt, F. Kline, H. Limberg, J. Hortsman, Hugh Brady, J. Hewdegan, George Dreka, John Heyberger, T. S. Berger, Wm. Fetters, George Wilson, 23 25 H. K. Cummings, R. M. Patterson, Charles Welding, Henry Hyde—65 passengers: Captain, mates and crew, 15, making together 80 souls on board.

At seven o'clock, P.M., we arrived at New Castle, Del., where we made fast alongside the wharf for the night. During the evening a majority of the passengers went on shore for the purpose of having a jollification, prior to a six months' cruise at sea. They came on board about two o'clock next morning as mellow as peaches, and several of them will remember for a long time the last night on terra firma previous to leaving for San Francisco. Moderate breeze from S.W. Weather clear and cold.

Wednesday, Jan. 17.—

At seven o'clock, A.M., the Ice-boat got under way, and we proceeded down the river. At seven o'clock, P.M., we cast off and came to anchor inside the Delaware Break-water, with thirty-five fathoms of chain. The Ice-boat, in coming alongside with Captain Fairfowl, ran into us and stove our larboard main-rail badly. Passengers have been busily engaged during the afternoon writing letters to their wives, sweethearts and friends, with a view to sending them on shore by the pilot, who is expected to leave us to-night. After several efforts, I finally succeeded in scribbling a note to my wife, using my hat-box for a writing-desk. Weather cloudy and very cold. Wind S.W.

Thursday, Jan. 18.—

At half-past eleven o'clock, A.M., weighed anchor and stood out to sea, and at twelve o'clock, M., discharged the pilot. On 24 26 leaving the brig he received three hearty cheers from the passengers, and when his boat receded from our view the last link that bound us to terra firma was severed. A fine breeze springing up toward night enabled us to lay our course and scud along at the rate of the rate of ten knots an hour. Strong breeze from N.W. Clear and cold.

Friday, Jan. 19.—

Wind still fair, but the weather is cloudy and cold. Of the sixty-five passengers, all are sea-sick with the exception of three. The lee-rail is completely lined with demoralized passengers, who are paying their tribute to old Neptune. Those who are not able to pay their respects to the deity of the great deep over the rail, are casting up their accounts in buckets, wash-basins and spittoons. In consequence of the coldness of the weather, I remained in my berth all day. Considerable excitement was caused to-day in consequence of the man at the wheel being found slightly inebriated. This led to an investigation of the matter, and in searching the forecastle a jug of whisky was found in the chest of one of the sailors, which the Captain ordered thrown overboard. Distance sailed, 184 miles. Latitude 37° 47'.

Saturday, Jan. 20.—

This morning wind light and baffling, being barely sufficient to keep the brig steady. At ten o'clock, A.M., passed the ship St. Louis, bound west. Sea-sick passengers look better this morning. Those that are able to crawl out of their berths are on the poop-deck taking the benefit of a little sunshine. D. L. 25 27 Munns and S. C. Upham were to-day appointed by the Captain to divide the steerage passengers into messes. They were accordingly arranged into four messes of nine persons each—two occupying the starboard and two the larboard side of the steerage. Several squalls during the afternoon, accompanied by hail. Distance sailed, 109 miles. Lat. 36° 41'. Thermometer at M. 25°.

Sunday, Jan. 21.—

Eight o'clock, A.M. The wind has been blowing a perfect gale from S.S.E. since midnight; brig laboring and straining very much, and shipping heavy seas. Owing to the rough weather, the passengers are nearly all sea-sick again. No cooking and but little eating done to-day in consequence of the galley having been unshipped by a heavy sea. Distance sailed, 128 miles. No observation. Therm. at M. 27°.

Monday, Jan. 22.—

Wind still continues blowing fresh from S.S.E., accompanied by rain. Cook's galley fitted up to-day; started a fire, and the cook commenced operations in the culinary line. The steerage passengers complain bitterly of a scanty allowance of food, also of the manner in which it is cooked. A small codfish and two dozen potatoes were served up to-day for dinner for thirty-six steerage passengers. This circumstance being reported to the Captain, he promises that all shall be right on this score hereafter. Distance sailed, 116 miles. Lat. 35° 53”. Therm. at M. 26°.

Tuesday, Jan. 23.—

Seven o'clock, A.M. Fine breeze from the N.E., which enables the brig to lay her course and make about eight knots an hour. 26 28 Have had several light showers during the day, but the atmosphere is delightful. The passengers have nearly all recovered from their sea-sickness, and are lounging about the decks amusing themselves in various ways. They have not yet gotten their sea-legs on, consequently, cannot walk about the decks very readily. Passed a brig to-day, bound west, but could not make her out. Distance sailed, 176 miles. Lat. 34° 23'. Therm. at M. 25°.

Wednesday, Jan. 24.—

Wind from the north; brig rolls lazily over the water, making little headway. Have been visited to-day by rain and sunshine, alternately. Several of the steerage passengers have spread their mattresses and blankets on deck for the purpose of drying them in the sun. Owing to the leaky condition of the deck, the upper tier of steerage berths have been saturated with water since leaving Philadelphia. The Captain and second mate had an altercation this morning, in which they called each other everything but gentlemen. This war of words ended by the Captain sending the mate below and putting him off duty. Passed three vessels during the day. Distance sailed, 157 miles. Lat. 34° 11'. Therm. at M. 28°.

Thursday, Jan. 25.—

Fine breeze from the N.E. and weather clear. All sails set by the wind. The steerage passengers still complain of their accommodations. They have been grossly imposed upon by Burling & Dixon, owners of the brig. A large portion of the steerage is occupied with freight and luggage belonging to the cabin 27 29 passengers. Bills of lading having been executed for the freight it should have been stored in the hold of the brig or left on shore. A flying-fish was found on deck this morning, it having flown on board during the night. It was cooked and eaten by one of the passengers. Distance sailed, 143 miles. Lat. 32° 41'. Therm. at M. 27°.

Friday, Jan. 26.—

Throughout the last twenty-four hours heavy squalls accompanied by rain. Brig laboring and straining very much, and shipping heavy seas. The jib was split to-day during a severe squall. The steerage passengers assisted the crew in shortening sail. The Osceola left Philadelphia without a full crew, having only six men and two boys before the mast to work a brig of two hundred and seventy-six tons burthen, around Cape Horn. Distance sailed, 140 miles. Lat. 31° 21'. Therm. at M. 33°.

Saturday, Jan. 27.—

Gale still continues with increased violence. Top-sails double-reefed; sea running very high and brig straining badly. In the afternoon, the crew commenced shifting deckload, which was somewhat wet and damaged. Found that the water in one cask had entirely leaked out, and another cask was only one-third full. Burling & Dixon, in their hurry to get the brig to sea, caused the water-casks to be filled without having the hoops tightened, hence the result. If the casks in the hold are in the same condition as those on deck, we shall most certainly be on a short allowance of water in the tropics. Distance sailed, 72 miles. Lat. 30° 41'. Therm. at M. 36°.

28 30

Sunday, Jan. 28.—

Morning, wind light and baffling; meridian, wind has died away and it is nearly a dead calm. Afternoon, light squalls accompanied by rain. For several days past, a few of the steerage passengers have been in favor of having their rations weighed out, while others have opposed the measure. This morning the Captain gave the first mate orders to serve out naval rations to the steerage passengers until further orders. Passengers and crew served with water this morning—three quarts to each person. This afternoon the crew removed the “iceboards” from the bow of the brig. Distance sailed, 31 miles. Lat. 30° 52'. Therm. at M. 40°.

Monday, Jan. 29.—

At daylight this morning the wind suddenly increased to a gale. We were compelled to hard-up the helm in order to get the canvas off the brig. At eight o'clock, A.M., hove to under close-reefed maintop-sail and stay-sail, with a heavy sea running, which caused the brig to strain very much. to add to our peril, the forward cabin now began to work with the strain of the deck-load. The safety of the brig compelled the Captain to give orders to heave overboard the principal part of the deck-load to ease her. With the exception of a few ship's stores, it belonged to the passengers, and consisted of provisions, brandy, house-frames and gold-washers. Unfortunately, several of the passengers had their entire freight on deck, consisting of provisions for their subsistence in California. Poor fellows! they will be in a sad plight on arriving in San Francisco, almost 29 31 penniless and without provisions. The throwing overboard a cargo at sea for the purpose of saving the ship is anything but agreeable when nothing but a plank separates one from eternity. During the gale the following ludicrous incident occurred: While all hands, passengers and crew, were busily engaged staving in the heads and throwing overboard brandy, molasses and vinegar casks, a fellow-passenger, who had “Done the State some service”

during the late war with Mexico, and being withal a great lover of whisky, caught up from off the deck both hands full of a mixture of brandy, molasses, vinegar and salt water, and after taking a hearty swig, exclaimed, “ Jimminy, boys, this is first-rate swankey.” the same individual, during the destruction of the brandy casks, labored extremely hard to preserve one from the general wreck, which on being broached, proved to be, to his great chagrin, a brandy cask filled with pilot-bread.

While the casks composing the deck-load were waltzing to one of the tunes of old Boreas, the two ship's boys and one of the passengers had their propellers slightly injured. Distance sailed, 116 miles. Lat. 31° 45'. Therm. at M. 44°.

Tuesday, Jan. 30.—

Went on deck at six o'clock this morning and found the gale still raging; brig under close-reefed sails. The main-hatch was broken out to-day for the purpose of getting at the water, all on deck having been used. In consequence of the leaky condition of the casks, 30 32 one-third of the water was found to have leaked out of each of the five casks broken out. We shall most certainly suffer for the want of fresh water before reaching Rio de Janeiro.

Owing to the crowded state of the brig, the accommodations in cabins and steerage are miserable. The passengers belonging to the latter, in particular, have been shamefully imposed upon by the owners, as the following facts will fully demonstrate:—

When the steerage berths were taken, a table was fitted up for the use of the passengers, at which thirty persons could be comfortably seated, and the steerage was tolerably well lighted by skylights. When the Osceola was on the eve of leaving the port of Philadelphia, the table and seats were removed by order of the owners of the brig, and the space occupied by them stowed with cases chests and trunks, a large portion of which belonged to the cabin passengers; consequently, the steerage passengers have been compelled to mess on chicken-coops, pig-pens, water-casks and trunks, subjected to almost every imaginable inconvenience. In fact, the brig has been a perfect Hades since she sailed from Philadelphia. The steerage of the brig contains less than six hundred and fifty superficial feet, and there are forty-four souls, including mates, stewards and cooks, who sleep in it, which is twelve persons more than is allowed by the laws of the United States to passenger vessels passing through the tropics. Distance sailed, 124 miles. Lat. 31° 07'. Therm. at M. 49°.

Wednesday, Jan. 31.—

Went on deck this 31 33 morning at seven o'clock and found the brig jumping through the water at the rate of eight knots an hour, with starboard studding-sails all set. This is the most delightful day experienced since leaving Philadelphia. We had a partial break-out in the steerage to-day, which has added very much to the convenience of the passengers. The Captain ordered the boody-hatch removed for the purpose of more thoroughly ventilating the steerage. The brig has no wind-sails on board, but the Captain has promised to have one made for the steerage at once. Distance sailed, 49 miles. Lat. 30° 44'. Therm. at M. 56°.

Thursday, Feb. 1.—

Eight o'clock, A.M., fine breeze from W.S.W. and clear. Studding-sails set below and aloft, and brig making eight knots an hour, which is all we can get out of the old tub. This being duff-day, the flour and raisins were served out last evening to the caterers of the steerage messes for their duff. The ingredients were accordingly mixed and taken to the cook last evening in order that they might be put into the coppers early this morning to boil for dinner; but the boys, on going to the galley for their coffee, were taken all aback by the cook's presenting them with their duff for breakfast, piping hot, a mistake chargeable to the misplaced zeal of the son of a sea-cook! The circumstance was reported to the Captain, who gave the cook orders in future not to boil duff for breakfast! Distance sailed, 158 miles. Lat. 30° 55'. Therm. at M. 63°.

Friday, Feb. 2.—

This is my birthday. Thirty 32 34 years old to-day. Have been a rolling-stone all my life, consequently have gathered no moss. Am now in search of “the golden fleece,” and may return shorn. Nous verrons! At eleven o'clock last night the wind commenced blowing a gale from N.N.E. At twelve o'clock split foretop-sail; soon after sent down royal-yards and hove the brig to. At eight o'clock this morning repaired top-sail and let the close reef out of the maintop-sail. At meridian, the storm abated somewhat, but the sea is still running very high, causing the brig to labor heavily and ship an occasional sea. Commenced reading to-day a work entitled “WHAT I SAW IN CALIFORNIA,” by Edwin Bryant, in which I am deeply interested. Mr. Bryant traveled the overland route to California, via Independence, Missouri; and I regret very much that I did not take the same route in preference to this, via Cape Horn. Descriptions of a “life on the ocean wave” read very prettily on shore, but the reality of a sea voyage speedily dispels the romance. Distance sailed, 84 miles. Lat. 29° 55'. Therm. at M. 68°.

Saturday, Feb. 3.—

Went on deck at six o'clock this morning, found the reefs all let out and the light sails set; brig sailing six knots an hour. The wind continuing fair in the afternoon, the Captain ordered the larboard topmast and top-gallant studding-sails set, which caused the brig to bound merrily over the water, shortening the distance between us and the golden land to which we are bound. God grant that we may have a safe and speedy passage to our port of destination, and that, on our 33 35 arrival, our most sanguine expectations may be realized. Distance sailed, 166 miles. Lat. 30° 17'. Therm. at M. 71°.

Sunday, Feb. 4.—

To-day, wind light and baffling, but the weather is delightfully pleasant. Being religiously inclined I borrowed a Bible from a fellow-passenger—not being provided with one my-self—read a chapter, and cogitated in my mind a sermon suited to the occasion. I regret exceedingly that I did not bring a Bible and Prayer-Book with me, for I expect to do my own preaching during the next two years. California will probably be better supplied with mosquitoes than ministers. Distance sailed, 125 miles. Lat. 29° 55'. Therm. at M. 67°.

Monday, Feb. 5.—

Fine breeze from W.S.W., weather clear and pleasant. Passengers assisted the crew in breaking out the main-hold for water and provisions. Found the water in two of the casks nearly half leaked out, which fully confirms in my mind a previously-expressed opinion that we shall run short of fresh water before reaching Rio de Janeiro. Several of the passengers have already become weary of a sea voyage, and have been talking very strongly to-day of leaving the Osceola at Rio, crossing the Andes to Valparaiso, and awaiting there the arrival of the brig, thus avoiding the passage around Cape Horn. I consider the project an insane one, one which I would not attempt for any earthly consideration, and shall use my best endeavors to dissuade others from hazarding their lives in an undertaking so futile and foolhardy. 34 36 The distance across from Rio to Valparaiso is far greater than at any other point on the continent of South America, and the journey would be attended with incredible hardship and suffering. Having paid my passage to San Francisco on board the brig Osceola, I intend, if my life be spared, to remain by her until she reaches that port or goes to Davy Jones's locker. Distance sailed, 92 miles. Lat. 28° 27'. Therm. at M. 78°.

Tuesday, Feb. 6.—

This morning, at daylight, weather fair with a fresh breeze from N.N.E. The brig is making nine knots an hour, which is something remarkable for her, and all hands, including the cook, feel jolly. At ten o'clock, A.M., we exchanged signals with a French brig steering N.N.W. The crew, assisted by the passengers, broke out the main-hold again to-day in search of water. More leaky casks found, in consequence of which the Captain has put all hands on an allowance of five pints of water to each person. Yesterday, we struck the “trades,” in longitude 37° 20'. Distance sailed, 182 miles. Lat. 26° 31'. Therm. at M. 71°.

Wednesday, Feb. 7.—

Throughout to-day, fresh breeze from N.E., with occasional squalls and light rain. The cabin passengers have been growling for some time about their miserable accommodations, and to-day have declared war to the knife. They have resolved to hold an indignation meeting, and on their arrival at Rio de Janeiro to report the proceedings with their grievances to the American consul at that port, and ask his interference in the 35 37 matter. they swear by all the saints in the calendar that the Osceola shall not leave Rio until matters are adjusted to their entire satisfaction. Both cabin and steerage passengers have much cause for complaint, and I sincerely hope that justice may be done to all on board before the Osceola leaves Rio. Distance sailed, 190 miles. Lat. 24° 22'. Therm. at M. 69°.

Thursday, Feb. 8.—

We crossed the Tropic of Cancer to-day and may expect excessively hot weather until we cross Capricorn. Last evening an altercation occurred between the Captain and first mate, Mr. Howell, in relation to the pumps, which resulted in the latter being put off duty. During the controversy they were not very choice in their selections from the King's English. The opinions of the passengers, in relation to this matter, appear to be about equally divided, although I am inclined to the belief that were a vote of all on board registered, a majority would be found in favor of the mate. To-day we have been favored with a fair breeze from the north-east, and all drawing sails have been set. Distance sailed, 176 miles. Lat. 22° 15'. Therm. at M. 71°.

Friday, Feb. 9.—

The weather this morning is as clear and balmy as a May morning in Philadelphia, and the brig is gliding along at the rate of eight knots an hour.

In consequence of the first mate being off duty, the first watch last night was kept by one of the passengers, who in early life had served on board a man-of-war. There is nothing, in my opinion, 36 38 more essential to the safety of a vessel and the lives of her passengers than harmony among her officers. The Captain and mates of the Osceola have been at loggerheads since leaving Philadelphia, and God only knows how much longer this asperity of feeling will continue to exist between them.

A brig, supposed to be the Oniota, bound for San Francisco, which sailed from Philadelphia five days ahead of the Osceola, has been on our weather-quarter, five miles distant, during the afternoon, but we are now rapidly leaving her astern. We are to-day in the latitude of the Cape de Verde Islands, and about thirty hours' sail, Osceola time, to the westward of them. Distance sailed, 174 miles. Lat. 19° 53'. Therm. at M. 72°.

Saturday, Feb. 10.—

Went on deck at seven o'clock this morning, and found the weather delightfully pleasant. The brig is being wafted along by the trade-winds at the rate of eight knots an hour. The Captain flogged one of the sailors this morning for a trifling misdemeanor, and the passengers have been gathered in knots about the deck, during the forenoon, discussing the matter. The majority appear to be opposed to corporeal punishment, but are willing to admit that the safety of the brig depends on the maintenance of strict discipline.

During the twenty-four hours ending at twelve o'clock, M., to-day, the Osceola has sailed 205 miles, being a greater distance than she has made during any previous day since leaving the Capes of the Delaware. Three cheers for the Osceola! She 37 39 certainly smells land. Several flying-fish came on board during last night. I have preserved one of their wings as a memento of the tropics. Lat. 16° 52'. Therm. at M. 75°.

Sunday, Feb. 11.—

Although it has been hazy to-day, the weather has not been oppressive in consequence of the trade-winds, which in this latitude are bracing and invigorating. This morning, Mr. Howell, the first mate, presented me with a Bible, for which I feel very grateful. Law and physic have several votaries on board the Osceola, but divinity has not a single representative. During the day I have noticed several flocks of “Mother Cary's chickens” flying around the brig and skimming over the surface of the water. These little messengers of the deep are of the size and color of a swallow, and are regarded by most sailors with feelings of superstition and reverential awe. Some mariners fully believe them to be the winged spirits of their departed comrades, and consider it a great sacrilege to attempt to capture or kill them. Distance sailed, 202 miles. Lat. 13° 53'. Therm. at M. 76°.

38 40
CHAPTER II.

Cruising in the tropics—Cabin passengers have a jollification—Cross the equator—Visit the bark Croton —Dissecting a shark—Passengers present a petition to Captain Fairfowl—A duel in embryo—Celebration of Washington's Birthday—Steerage passengers on short allowance—Gambling on board—Welcome visitors—Land, ho!—Enter the harbor of Rio de Janeiro—Impressions on beholding it—First hour on shore.

Monday, February 12.—The weather continues close and hazy, with strong indications of rain. The trade-winds are gradually dying away, and we shall probably be becalmed before reaching the equator.

As we were nearing the head-quarters of old Neptune yesterday afternoon, a letter addressed to His Highness was thrown overboard by one of his subjects, informing him that there were several candidates for initiation on board the Osceola. Early this morning a reply was received from the old salt, stating that he would board us as we “crossed the line” of his dominions, for the express purpose of performing the “awful and terrifying” ceremonies of initiation, and requesting the candidates to be in readiness, as he could not be detained long from home, in consequence of the ill-health of Mrs. Neptune. Distance sailed, 192 miles. Lat. 11° 04'. Therm. at M. 77°.

39 41

Tuesday Feb. 13.—

The weather is as warm today as it is in Philadelphia in midsummer, and were it not for the trade-winds the heat would be very oppressive. To-day the caterers of the steerage messes made a complaint to the Captain in relation to the quality and quantity of provisions received by them from the cook. He has promised to provide the steerage passengers with a cook and galley, on the arrival of the brig at Rio. If this promise is not adhered to, a full report of our grievances will be made to the American consul. Distance sailed to-day, 225 miles! Best time yet made. Hurrah for the old tub! Lat. 7° 45'. Therm. at M. 80°.

Wednesday, Feb. 14.—

Owing to the excessive heat, I slept very little last night, and throughout the day the weather has been very oppressive. Several of the passengers remained on deck last night rather than submit to a vapor-bath in their berths. Took a salt-water bath this evening, and feel very much refreshed. Distance sailed, 184 miles. Lat. 4° 41'. Therm. at M. 82°.

Thursday, Feb. 15.—

When I went on deck, at six o'clock this morning, the wind was light and baffling, with every indication of a calm. The brig has not made more than four knots an hour during the night. At twelve o'clock, M., it was nearly a dead calm, and the sails flapped lazily against the masts. In the afternoon we had a light fall of rain, accompanied by baffling breezes. This forenoon saw a hermaphrodite brig steering south by west, probably bound for Rio de Janeiro. This 40 42 afternoon ran in a school of skip-jacks, a species of the finny tribe found in abundance in this latitude. They are about two feet in length when full grown, very plump, and of a deep purple color. The morning watch was kept by one of the ship's boys— a juvenile watch officer! Distance sailed, 134 miles. Lat. 2° 28'. Therm. at M. 81°.

Friday, Feb. 16.—

We have been becalmed all day within one hundred miles of the equator. Last night the weather was so excessively hot that a majority of the passengers slept on deck. During the night, four of the first cabin passengers, not having the fear of “ delirium triangles” before their eyes, took it into their heads to have a jollification. They made night hideous with their drunken revelry, to the great annoyance and disgust of those who were more quietly disposed. To cap the climax, one of the revelers had an attack of mania a potu this morning, which I think will have a tendency to check his bacchanalian propensities in future. Distance sailed, 58 miles. Lat. 1° 30'. Therm. at M. 86°. “Jerusalem, my happy home,” how hot it is!

Saturday, Feb. 17.—

We are still north of the equator, having been becalmed during last night and this forenoon. I slept on top of the cabin last night with nothing but the canopy of heaven for covering. Early this morning the mate caught an albicore, being the first fish caught with a hook and line during the passage, although several lines have been trailing over the stern of the brig the past ten days. During the last week we have seen small fish in 41 43 abundance, but they do not seem to be very hungry. It has been rainy and squally all the afternoon, still it remains very hot and oppressive. Distance sailed, 30 miles. Lat. 1° 13'. Therm. at M. 84°.

Sunday, Feb. 18.—

It rained incessantly throughout last night. It seemed as though the flood-gates of heaven had been opened especially for our benefit. The rain ceased at daylight, and a fresh breeze from W.S.W. has enabled us to glide along at the rate of seven knots an hour this forenoon. During the night we caught a barrel of rain-water, which has enabled the passengers to indulge in the luxury of a fresh-water wash —the first since leaving Philadelphia. This morning one of the passengers caught a bonito weighing thirty pounds, which was served up for dinner. A large school of blackfish passed us this morning to the leeward, half a mile distant. We crossed the equinoctial line about ten o'clock, in longitude 25° 40'. Neptune did not honor us with a visit, in consequence, I presume, of its being Sunday. Distance sailed, 83 miles. Lat. 0° 11' south. Therm. at M. 80°.

Monday, Feb. 19.—

Another dead calm throughout to-day. It seems as though we were never to get out of the “horse latitude.” Yesterday evening a bark was discovered to the windward heading for Rio. Early this morning we exchanged colors with her, and at ten o'clock, A.M., our stern boat was lowered and manned with passengers, for the purpose of boarding her. At one o'clock, P.M., our boat returned with a dozen passengers from the stranger, which proved to be the bark Croton, 42 44 Captain D. V. Souillard, which sailed from New York on the 16th ultimo, bound for San Francisco, with fifty-four passengers on board. During the afternoon, the boats of both vessels have been busily engaged carrying the passengers to and fro. Some fifteen or twenty of the Croton's passengers dined with us, and about the same number of our passengers partook of a collation on board that vessel. The wine bottle passed merrily around, and wit, sentiment and song imparted zest to the scene. Mirth and hilarity reigned pre-eminent, and everything went as “Merry as a marriage bell,”

until toward night one of our passengers, who had imbibed too much whisky, kicked up a row on board the Croton, which resulted in his being brought on board the brig by his shipmates and placed in durance. The accommodations of the passengers on board the Croton are most admirable. They are so much superior to ours, that one of our passengers offered $150 to any one on board that vessel who would exchange berths with him. The offer was not accepted. Distance sailed, 35 miles. Lat. 0° 28'. Therm. at M. 85°.

Tuesday, Feb. 20.—

The brig's awning was spread to-day for the first time during the passage, although for the past ten days we have, when on deck, been exposed to the broiling rays of a tropical sun. We are still within one degree of the equator, having made only five minutes of latitude during the past twenty-four hours. In consequence of the 43 45 continued calm and the low state of our fresh water, each person to-day received his allowance of water separately, which called into requisition all the empty bottles, jugs and jars that could be found on board the brig.

This morning one of the passengers caught a shark seven feet in length, and in less than twenty minutes after having been landed on deck, he was literally “used up.” Never was a shark more thoroughly dissected. His vertebræ were cut out and divided among the passenger, each receiving a joint as a memento of his sharkship. Distance sailed, only eight miles! Lat. 0° 33'. Therm. at M. 84°.

Wednesday, Feb. 21.—

Since sunrise we have been favored with a light but fair breeze from E.S.E. God grant that it may continue until we reach Rio. Yesterday morning, I was appointed one of a committee of three to present to Captain Fairfowl a petition signed by fifty-one of our passengers, protesting against the first mate's watch being kept by incompetent persons, thereby endangering the lives of all on board; also requesting in respectful terms the restoration of the first mate to duty. This afternoon a written reply was received from the Captain, stating that he hoped to reach Rio in safety, but would not comply with our request in relation to the mate, refusing in positive terms to restore him to duty so long as he (the Captain) “breathed the breath of life.”

The sun being obscured to-day, the old skipper 44 46 was unable to take an observation. Distance sailed, as per log, 45 miles. Therm. at M. 80°.

Thursday, Feb. 22.—

Last night, at twelve o'clock, we made the south-east “trades,” and to-day we have been skimming along at the rate of six knots an hour. In consequence of the excessively hot weather, and want of exercise, two of the first-cabin passengers have had an attack of the rabies, and not having the fear of man before their eyes, have concluded to have coffee and pistols for two served up on their arrival in Rio. A challenge has been given and accepted, and all the preliminaries arranged by the seconds, to the apparent satisfaction of both parties. “It has a strange, quick jar upon the ear, That cocking of a pistol, when you know A moment more will bring the sight to bear Upon your person, twelve yards off, or so; A gentlemanly distance, not too near, If you have got a former friend or foe; But after being fired at once or twice, The ear becomes more Irish, and less nice.”

To-day being the anniversary of the birth of Washington, the ensign and pennant of the Osceola have been flying in the breeze since daylight this morning. At meridian, a salute with small-arms was fired by the passengers in honor of the day, and several National airs were played by the “El Dorado Band.” During the afternoon, speeches appropriate to the occasion were delivered by five of the passengers. The jubilee was kept up until 45 47 a late hour in the evening. Distance sailed, 120 miles. Lat. 3° 32'. Therm. at M. 84°.

Friday, Feb. 23.—

Fair wind continues. Brig making seven knots an hour. In compliance with the Captain's request, I have to-day written out a list of provisions for thirty-six steerage passengers for seventeen weeks, as per scale of U.S. Naval rations, and, on our arrival at Rio, he has promised to purchase such provisions as are deficient, in order to complete the list. An altercation occurred this morning between the Captain and several of the steerage passengers in relation to their ration of Irish potatoes. The Captain and steerage passengers are continually at loggerheads. Scarcely a day passes without a shindy being kicked up between them. Saw two vessels to-day to leeward; one a brig bound south, the other a Belgian bark homeward bound. Distance sailed, 200 miles. Lat. 5° 43'. Therm. at M. 84°.

Saturday, Feb. 24.—

The atmosphere is clear to-day, and the weather as balmy as a June day in Yankee land. The trade wind is wafting us along at the rate of eight knots an hour. The skirmish that commenced yesterday between the Captain and the steerage passengers, in relation to potatoes, assumed a more warlike aspect this morning, and the old skipper has given orders to the cook to cook no more potatoes for the steerage passengers. He also said he would throw the potatoes overboard rather than have them served to the steerage messes. This last straw has broken the camel's back, and a spirit of indignation prevails throughout the brig in 46 48 regard to Captain Fairfowl's treatment of the steerage passengers. He is a sea-tyrant, and totally unfit to command a passenger vessel. The dinner for the steerage passengers to-day consisted of boiled codfish and hard tack —all told! If a more rascally dinner was ever placed before a like number of Christians when on a short allowance of water in a tropical climate, with the thermometer at 85° in the shade, and when surrounded with provisions in abundance, I have yet to learn what it consisted of. The truth of the matter is, there is the d—to pay, and no Irish potatoes to cancel the debt! Distance sailed, 173 miles. Lat. 8° 21'. Therm. at M. 85°.

Sunday, Feb. 25.—

The trade winds continued throughout last night and this forenoon. Sunday has proved a very lucky day to me ever since leaving Philadelphia. Two weeks ago to-day, I was presented with a Bible, and to-day a fellow-passenger of the name of Patterson, a relative, I presume, of Billy P. of pugilistic memory, presented me with an Episcopal Prayer-Book, which I have been reading nearly all day. Should I have the good luck to obtain a Hymn Book before reaching California, I shall, on my arrival in that far-off land, possess the requisite documents for commencing the profession of itinerant preacher. This afternoon, one of the steerage passengers shot a ganet as it was flying over the brig, but it fell overboard and was lost. The ganet is of the fish-hawk genus, and in size and color of plumage resembles that bird very closely. The potato war that raged with so much 47 49 fury yesterday, has gradually subsided. Distance sailed, 163 miles. Lat. 10° 33'. Therm. at M. 84°.

Monday, Feb. 26.—

Our water, which has been remarkably good until within the past few days, is undergoing the process of fermentation, which renders it very unpalatable. The potato war broke out again to-day, in consequence of no dinner being cooked for the steerage passengers. The circumstance was reported to the Captain, who imputed the fault to the cook, and he in return swore point-blank that he had received no orders to cook dinner for the steerage passengers! The dinner, however, was ordered to be cooked, and, at the fashionable hour of four o'clock, P.M., we dined on bean soup and pork, confident in the belief that a late dinner was better than no dinner at all. The brig has been steering her course to-day at the rate of seven knots an hour. During the day we have sighted four vessels; two bound north-east, and with one, an American whaler, homeward bound, we exchanged colors. One of the other vessels was bound south-east, for the Cape of Good Hope; the other was a bark, bound north-east, with her we exchanged colors, but could not make out her nationality. Distance sailed, 170 miles. Lat. 12° 50'. Therm. at M. 84°.

Tuesday, Feb. 27.—

The wind has been very light to-day, causing the brig to “make haste very slowly.” During the last three days all hands have been elated with the idea of reaching Rio on Sunday next, but we shall most certainly be disappointed unless favored with a stronger breeze than 48 50 that of to-day. We are at this time 900 miles north-east of Rio, yet an eight-knot breeze would waft us there in five days very easily. Some old sails have been spread above our heads to-day as a substitute for an awning, and the passengers have been amusing themselves by playing cards, dominoes, backgammon, checkers, and reading, writing, singing, fiddling and dancing. The Captain being asleep and the first mate off duty, no observation was taken at meridian to-day! To relieve the tedium of the voyage, the passengers have introduced a new game this afternoon—pitching pennies, and while I am writing, the pennies are rattling on the deck over my head. Distance sailed, per log, 170 miles. Therm. at M. 86°. Shades of Lucifer! it has been hot to-day. If I could only divest myself of flesh and sit in my bones for an hour or so, wouldn't it be altogether lovely?

Wednesday, Feb. 28.—

Last day of February and fifty-three days at sea! Rio not reached yet. Since sunrise, this morning, the brig has been rolling lazily along, scarcely making three knots an hour, which does not look much like reaching Rio this week. Captain Fairfowl has experienced a very sudden change of heart! Yesterday afternoon full naval rations, with the exception of cheese, were served to the steerage passengers, for the first time since leaving Philadelphia. We received no cheese for the very best of reasons—there was none on board the brig. The Captain has promised the steerage passengers full naval rations when they arrive at Rio, if the articles of which we are 49 51 deficient can be had in that port. Among the rations served out yesterday, were butter, pickles and vinegar, the first tasted during the passage.

Our cook is possessed of a devil as large as a ground-hog. The soup for the steerage passengers was served up to-day in the following novel manner: A large boiler, from the galley, was placed in the lee gangway, exposed to the broiling rays of the sun, and the passengers were called to help themselves as best they could. This scene reminds me of one witnessed in a Spanish barracks, at Port Mahon, in the Mediterranean, where the soldiers were marched up to a large kettle of soup, and the foremost after partaking of three spoonfuls fell back, and the person next to him advanced for his share of the spoils, and so on in turn, until all were served.

This morning, a committee of three, consisting of Dr. George Guier, Jr., T. B. Butcher and S. C. Upham, was appointed by the passengers to wait on Captain Fairfowl, state their grievances, and request that they be remedied by him on the arrival of the Osceola in Rio. At three o'clock, P.M., the committee had an interview with the Captain, and he acceded to the following propositions:

On the arrival of the Osceola in Rio, a waiter shall be shipped to attend to the wants of the first and second cabin passengers; a galley shall be erected and a cook shipped exclusively for the steerage passengers; a table shall also be fitted up in the steerage for their especial use and benefit, and stores shall be purchased to complete the full 50 52 naval ration, which shall be served regularly thereafter. Potatoes shall be served alike to cabin and steerage passengers. The committee are to be allowed the privilege of seeing that the stores purchased for the vessel are of a good quality, and that the other arrangements are carried into effect before sailing from Rio. Distance sailed, 169 miles. Lat. 16° 55'. Therm. at M. 85°.

Thursday, March 1.—

During yesterday and to-day the Osceola has been bowling along with square yards, and studding-sails set below and aloft. Gambling has again broken out on board the brig—this time, in the form of an epidemic. Poker, monté and “rattle-and-snap” have been the order of the day during the past week, and to-day, by way of change, two raffles came off, one for a gold guard-chain, and the other for a gold watch. Both prizes were won by the “gentlemen of honor,” who are to partake of pistols and coffee for two on their arrival in Rio. The forward cabin and steerage passengers have been playing cards and dominoes for dinners, oranges and monkeys, to be purchased in Rio by the losing parties. If the bets are all paid, there will be a scarcity of the raw material in the monkey market. A vessel was reported from the maintop this morning, bound north. Distance sailed, 173 miles. Lat. 19° 21'. Therm. at M. 87°.

Friday, March 2.—

This morning the rain poured down in torrents, accompanied by thunder and lightning. Just before the storm commenced two jack-o'-lanterns paid us a visit. One was stationed on the maintop-gallant-yard-arm, and the other 51 53 on the fore-truck, where they remained until vanquished by the rain-storm. The storm has been succeeded by a calm, and disappointment is depicted in the countenances of all on board.

Early this morning a brown butterfly and a small land-bird came on board, and their visit was hailed with pleasure by all hands. The butterfly was retained a prisoner, but the little bird, after fluttering about the masts and rigging a few moments, bade us adieu, and turning his head in the direction of the land, was soon lost to view. During to-day the surface of the water has been covered with a green substance, not unlike that which may be seen on a frog-pond. The sperm-whale is said to subsist on this floating scum. If so, I imagine they will never be troubled with dyspepsia or gout in consequence of high diet. This afternoon a sail was reported on our weather-bow, heading the same direction with us. Distance sailed, 130 miles. Lat. 21° 15'. Therm. at M. 82°.

Saturday, March 3.—

Another severe rain-storm at three o'clock this morning. At the commencement of the rain several of the passengers were asleep on top of the after-cabin, but they were compelled to take up their beds and walk. The storm was succeeded by an eight-knot breeze, which we have carried all day. Should this breeze continue until eight o'clock to-morrow morning, we shall make Cape Frio, which is seventy miles to the northward of Rio de Janeiro.

Two of the passengers, carpenters by profession, have been engaged during the day constructing a 52 54 galley for the use of the steerage passengers, which, when completed and manned by a competent cook, will add much to their comfort. Distance sailed, 116 miles. Lat. 22° 28'. Therm. at M. 82°.

Sunday, March 4.—

A dead calm prevailed throughout last night and to-day. Went on deck this morning at six o'clock and saw Cape Frio directly ahead, about thirty miles distant. To the leeward of us lie the Papagayos, Anchor and St. Ann's Islands, Cape Busios, St. John's Hill and Cape St. Thomas. Cape Frio, looming up in the distance, recalled vividly to mind recollections of my boyhood's home, in consequence of its close resemblance to the Camel's Hump, one of the highest peaks of the Green Mountain range.

During the afternoon the brig has drifted so near the shore that the light-house on Cape Frio can easily be discerned without the aid of a glass. A half-dozen vessels can be seen from our deck, standing in the same direction with us. A large green turtle was seen on our weather-bow early this morning, about thirty yards distant, making toward us with head erect. When within fifteen yards of the brig he bade us adieu by shaking his head and “Diving down below, down below.”

Distance sailed, 35 miles. Lat. 23° 03'. Therm. at M. 80°.

Monday, March 5.—

Last night a light breeze sprang up from the north-west, which enabled us to double Cape Frio. At daylight this morning 53 55 the wind died away, and during the day we have been rolling about within thirty miles of the harbor of Rio, surrounded by half a dozen vessels similarly situated. The highlands and mountains of Brazil can be seen along the horizon in the direction of Rio, as far as the eye can scan, and from our main-royal-yard can be seen the Sugar Loaf, a high conical-shaped promontory near the entrance to the harbor.

The passengers have been busily engaged to-day, shaving, shearing and clipping, which has called into requisition all the razors, scissors, hair-dyes, oils and pomades that can be mustered. They are all desirous of captivating the dark-eyed señoritas on their arrival in Rio. In consequence of the disappointment occasioned by the Osceola's not reaching Rio to-day, two of our passengers have adopted the whisky treatment in order to drown their sorrows. Whether they will succeed in calming their troubled spirits remains to be seen, but they have succeeded in making themselves uproariously drunk.

We spoke a Brazilian brig this afternoon, bound out of Rio for Pernambuco, with an assorted cargo. Distance sailed, six miles! Lat. 23° 09'. Therm. at M. 82°.

Tuesday, March 6.—

At nine o'clock last night we made the light on Razor Island, at the entrance of the harbor of Rio. We continued our course toward the light until two o'clock this morning, when the wind died away and left us within three miles of a rock-bound shore, which was being lashed 54 56 furiously by the angry waves. Fortunately, the tide set us off shore, and at daylight the roaring of the breakers was scarcely audible, although the coast for many miles in extent was distinctly in view. Soon after daylight a light breeze sprang up, which enabled us to steer direct for the entrance to the harbor of Rio, which we entered at four o'clock, P.M., and after passing Fort Santa Cruz on the right and the battery at the base of the Sugar Loaf on the left, we dropped anchor about one and a half miles below the principal landing of the city, at five o'clock, P.M. While passing up the harbor, we spoke the bark Elvira, of Boston, bound out for San Francisco, with sixty-three passengers. Suspended from her main-stay, were several bunches of bananas, which looked very inviting, as I had not tasted fruit of any description for more than forty days. As we passed Fort Santa Cruz, we were hailed in broken English by a Portuguese official, who thrust his curly head above the ramparts and bellowed through a dilapidated tin trumpet in a Boanergean voice. What he said, we knew not and cared as little, and the reply of our Captain was probably received with like indifference. The custom of hailing vessels from this fort is “More honored in the breach than in the observance.”

The scene presented from the deck of a vessel on entering the harbor of Rio de Janeiro is unrivaled. The most romantic imagination can picture nothing more magnificent than this beautiful harbor, 55 57

HARBOR OF RIO JANEIRO

56 57 59 surrounded by innumerable conical hills clothed to their summits with luxuriant tropical verdure, and the valleys dotted with beautiful white villas standing out in bold relief and contrast with the eternal green of the hills. Our anchor was scarcely down, before the news-boat came alongside. Soon after, we were visited by the Port Physician and the Custom-house officer. They had scarcely left us, before half a dozen shore-boats were alongside manned by half-naked negroes and Portuguese. The boats were soon filled to their utmost capacity by the passengers—scarcely a dozen remaining on board—and the word vamose being given, we soon passed the guard-ship and were landed on shore at the foot of Palace Square.

Immediately after landing, I went by invitation to the counting-house of Mr. Philip Hue, grocer and wine merchant, No. 14 Rua Direita, where I wrote letters to my friends in the United States. A mail-bag was to leave on the following day, on board the bark Hope, Captain Hall, bound for Philadelphia. Having finished my correspondence, I repaired to the Hotel Pharoux, accompanied by three friends, and ordered supper for four. The supper, consisting of cold chicken, coffee and rolls, was soon dispatched and the bill called for, which was presented by a very pretty French bar-maid. On examining the bill, I was thunder-struck! It footed up, as I supposed, seven dollars and eighty cents! I handed the bill to my companions, who exclaimed, simultaneously, “robbers! pirates! villains!” I inquired for the proprietor of the hotel, 58 60 for the purpose of ascertaining the price of chickens by the dozen. If they were two dollars each cooked, I desired to learn the price of the raw material! The landlord soon made his appearance, and an explanation followed which soon placed matters in their true light. Our bill was four millreis and 780 reis, instead of $7.80, being about sixty-two cents each, but enough for cold chicken and coffee. There are at the present time in Rio fully one thousand Americans belonging to California passenger vessels, which has caused the boatmen, hotel and livery-stable keepers to increase their tariff of prices fully one hundred per cent. Not wishing to pay fifty cents for the privilege of sleeping on the soft side of a billiard table, I went on board the brig at eleven o'clock, P.M., not overly elated with life in Rio.

59 61
CHAPTER III.

City of Rio de Janeiro—Visit to the market—Mode of nursing children in Rio—The Passeio Publico—Rare plants and flowers—Butchery of Santa Lucia—View of the city from Telegraph Hill—The Theatre San Januaria—Trick of the manager—A night on a dilapidated sofa—Emperor's church—Interior decorations—Yankee mercantile house in Rio—Visit to Praya Grande—The Frenchman and his orange grove—Visit to the Navy Yard—Scene at the guard-house—Convent of St. Benedict—Funeral ceremony—Mode of interment.

Wednesday, March 7.—Went on shore at eight o'clock, A.M., and after breakfasting at the Hotel Pharoux, visited the market-house, situated on the north side of Palace Square. The walls of the market are composed of stone, rough-cast, and the interior forms a hollow square. There are three arched gateways, or entrances, the principal of which, fronting Palace Square, is surmounted by an astronomical globe bearing a crown and cross, the Brazilian coat of arms. The eastern portion of the market is occupied by the fish-mongers, and on their stalls is displayed the greatest variety of the finny tribe I have ever seen, and I question whether the fish-market of Rio is excelled in variety by any other in the world. In the northern and western portions of the market are exposed for sale tropical fruits in all their varieties, and vegetables of various 60 62 kinds. Most of the stalls are attended by female slaves, many of whom have their little ones lashed to their backs with a strip of cotton cloth. The little pickaninnies remain as quiet in this position

MODE OF NURSING CHILDREN IN RIO.

as would an American child in a cradle or baby-jumper, and allow their mammas to perform their avocations without hindrance.

After having spent two or three hours in the market, I sauntered down toward the southern part of the city and visited the Passeio Publico, a beautiful square inclosed by a substantial stone wall ten feet high. At the entrance, which is surmounted by a marble bust of the late queen, Donna Maria I, were 61 63 stationed two guards, to whom I tipped my Panama on entering, and walked leisurely about for an hour, viewing the trees, plants and flowers growing here in all their splendor. Among the trees under which I strolled were the genepa, tamarind, casuarina, bread-fruit, joboticaba and cocoa; and among the rare plants I noticed the spiral aloe unfolding its long sword-shaped leaves. The flowers, of which there were many rare and beautiful specimens, were in square beds neatly arranged, and surrounded by a light and tasteful iron railing. Between the stairs leading to the terrace, at the southern extremity of the Passeio Publico, is a granite fountain standing on the backs of two huge brazen crocodiles. The terrace was decked with numerous urns and busts, and at the fountain a little leaden angel held by the tail a turtle of the same metal, from whose distended mouth issued a stream of pure fresh water into a marble reservoir beneath. On either side of the fountain, a little to the northward, is a triangular obelisk of granite, about thirty feet high, on which is the following inscription: “ Au saudad de Rio—au amor publico.” “To the health of Rio, and to the public love.” Around the southern wall of the terrace are marble seats, the wall above being inlaid with variegated porcelain. At each end of the terrace is an octangular-shaped tower about thirty feet high; the basement and space between the two towers being a tessellated marble pavement of much beauty.

From the Passeio Publico, I went to the butchery of Santa Lucia, a block of low buildings bordering 62 64 on the harbor, about half a mile above the Passeio Publico. At this place is slaughtered all the meat for the consumption of the city and its suburbs. At the time I was at the butchery, eleven o'clock, A.M., all the beeves for that day, about two hundred, had been killed, and the knights of the knife and steel were busily engaged divesting them of their hides. The butchers were all slaves, and among them I noticed several drivers with pointed sticks, with which they prodded those that were inclined to lag behind. The beef was carried on the heads of slaves to the carts of customers waiting in front of the butchery. I next went to the Hotel de Norte, where I partook of a tolerable dinner, for which I paid seventy-five cents. After dinner, accompanied by four or five friends, I visited Telegraph Hill, from which I had a fine view of the city, harbor and surrounding country. From this elevation, the scenery, as far as the eye can scan, is the most magnificent I have ever witnessed. Groves of oranges, limes, bananas and tamarinds meet the eye in every direction and perfume the air with their fragrant odors.

The city of Rio is situated on the west side of the Rio de Janeiro, or River of January, about ten miles from its mouth or entrance into the ocean, and is surrounded on three sides by a range of conical hills, most of which are covered to their summits with fruits, flowers and luxuriant herbage. In the dim distance can be seen the Organ Mountains, raising their majestic heads far above the clouds as if eager to kiss the blue vault of heaven.

63 65

GENERAL VIEW OF RIO JANEIRO.

 64 65 67

Rio is very compactly built, and with its suburbs contains nearly as many inhabitants as New York, but does not occupy as much ground as Philadelphia. The streets, which are narrow, mostly cross each other at right angles. There are in the city several public squares, or palazas, the principal of which are the Palace Square and the Campo Santa Anna, in each of which there is a public fountain, composed of granite and surmounted by the globe, crown and cross, the Brazilian coat of arms. The Rua de Ouvidor, the Broadway of Rio, is scarcely three paces wide, without curb or sidewalks. The buildings are composed of stone, with tile roofs, the walls rough-cast, and generally two stories high. In this city, as well as in all Catholic countries, the cathedrals, convents and nunneries attract the attention of strangers. I have to-day visited several of these institutions, and the cowled monks and veiled nuns have brought vividly to mind scenes from the “Mysteries of Udolpho” and the “Children of the Abbey.” The palaces of the Emperor are externally by far the most beautiful edifices in the city or suburbs.

In the evening I visited the theatre San Januaria, for the express purpose of seeing the Emperor and Empress of Brazil; but, for reasons best known to themselves, they did not appear in their box to be gazed at by the los Americanos. The first part of the entertainment consisted of feats on the tightrope by the far-famed Ravel family, after which was performed a pantomime by the stock company, which amused me very much. The after-piece 66 68 was a comedy, in the Portuguese language, not one word of which was intelligible to me. At the close of the performance I went to a public-house near by, kept by a German, where I invested fifty cents for the privilege of trying to sleep on a dilapidated sofa until daylight.

Thursday, March 8.—

This morning, after breakfasting at the Hotel de Universe. I visited the Emperor's church, on the west side of Rua Direita, near the palace. An arched causeway or passage leads from the palace to the church, through which the Emperor, Empress and suite are admitted to mass. Externally, the church has a very dingy appearance, but its interior arrangements are more pleasing to the eye. As I crossed the threshold the first object that met my eye was one of the emperor's guards, whose complexion was a shade lighter than the ace of spades, with a musket at his shoulder, and stationed near the altar, at which were a dozen priests and friars, with shaven heads and black gowns, ducking and bobbing around a large silver crucifix, placed in front of a wax statue of Him who died to atone for the sins of the world. Worshipers of all ages, complexions and conditions were kneeling about the church and around the altar, there being no seats, saying mass. The walls and ceiling of the church are elaborately carved and handsomely gilded, and on each side are niches, occupied by statues of the various saints of the calendar. Around the church walls, near the ceiling, are suspended in gilt frames pictures of 67 69 the apostles and scriptural paintings, several of which were executed by the old masters.

At ten o'clock, A.M., at the solicitation of Mr. Howell, our first mate, I accompanied him to the office of the American consul, for the purpose of hearing the charges to be preferred against him by Captain Fairfowl. After listening to the charges and the mate's defense, the consul discharged him from the brig. The captain and passengers of the ship Pacific, from New York, now in this port, are at loggerheads, and to the great joy of the passengers, the consul has given Captain Tibbets his “walking papers.”

During the forenoon I visited the store of Messrs. Southworth & Sands, of New York, who have recently established themselves in Rio. The junior partner, is the son of Dr. Sands, of sarsaparilla fame, and their store is a curiosity-shop to the natives, it being a receptacle of all kinds of Yankee notions, from a jew's-harp to a Troy-built omnibus! With the gentlemanly proprietors of this establishment I spent an hour very agreably, examining their stock of notions and chatting about matters in the United States.

In the afternoon it commenced raining, and after purchasing a few articles of tinware, for which I paid three times their value in the United States, I concluded to go on board the brig. The market being on my route to the landing, I purchased a handkerchief full of oranges at half a cent each, which fully made up the loss incurred on tinware. On arriving at the landing I was completely 68 70 surrounded by the boatmen, anxious to row me off to the brig. I paid an old Portuguese five “dumps,” a copper coin a trifle larger than an American dollar, to take me on board the Osceola, where I remained during the remainder of the afternoon and night.

Friday, March 9.—

I went on shore at eight o'clock, A.M., and after breakfasting at the Hotel Pharoux, joined a party of friends who were about visiting Praya Grande, a delightful little village on the east side of the harbor and directly opposite the city of Rio. The preliminaries for our departure being arranged, we went to the ticket office at the steamboat pier, purchased tickets, fare two dumps, and seating ourselves on board the boat, were landed in thirty minutes at the south or lower landing of Praya Grande. On board the boat were several Brazilian ladies and gentlemen with their children and servants. After landing we strolled along the beach toward the northern part of the town, passing on the way orange groves and several beautiful cottages. From one of the latter issued the tones of a piano, which brought vividly to mind, “Home, sweet home.”

Passing a café, we were hailed in English by a dapper little gentlemen, who scraped and bowed like a French dancing-master. We entered his café, and after drinking a bottle of claret wine, engaged him as guide to accompany us during the remainder of the day. At the foot of a mountain, at the extreme northern part of the town, we entered, by invitation, the garden of a Frenchman, once a resident of the 69 71 United States, but of late years a sojourner in Brazil. Having passed through the garden, fragrant with the sweet odors of tropical flowers, we visited an orange grove attached thereto, containing upwards of a thousand orange, lime, lemon and pitanga trees, laden with ripe and luscious fruit, of which we were invited to partake freely, “without money and without price.” That scriptural order was religiously obeyed! On leaving the orange grove, we passed a wash and spring-house, in which was a lusty wench elbow deep in soap-suds, with a little yellow-skin lashed to her back, who rolled up his white eyes and grinned a ghastly smile as we passed by him.

After leaving the cottage of the Frenchman, we stopped at a café and lunched on coffee, rolls and rancid butter. Price thirty-eight cents each. Being ready to resume our peregrinations, we looked for our guide, and were informed by the proprietor of the café that he had vamosed, for the purpose of enjoying his accustomed after-dinner siesta. During the afternoon we visited St. Domingo, the southern suburb of Praya Grande, for the purpose of purchasing syrups and jellies, which we were told were manufactured by a confectioner at that place. We strolled around until nearly night before we found the syrup and jelly establishment. Every one of whom we inquired seemed to put us on the wrong track. The jelly shop was kept by a French lady who had resided in New York and Philadelphia, and who spoke the English language fluently. We purchased about twenty dollars' worth of her commodities at very reasonable prices. We now 70 72 chartered a sail-boat, and after placing our goods on board, bade the French lady adieu, and went on board the brig well satisfied with the first day spent in Praya Grande.

Saturday, March 10.—

I went on shore this morning for the purpose of visiting the Brazilian Navy Yard, convent of St. Benedict and other places of interest. At nine o'clock, A.M., accompanied by a party of friends, I passed up the Rua Direita, crossed the Rua Piscadore, entered the Navy Yard gate, and was soon in the midst of ship-carpenters, blacksmiths, boat-builders, armorers and machinists. The Navy Yard is of an oblong form and occupies about as much ground as the United States Navy Yard at Philadelphia. There is but one ship-house in the yard, where is being constructed a sloop of war which I learned had been on the stocks for three years. In the boat-shed they were building several boats, some of which were beautiful models. The building occupied by the machinists and blacksmiths appeared to have been recently constructed, and the lathes and other machinery were imported from England, the manufacturer's name and residence being stamped on each article. In the blacksmith's shop we made the acquaintance of two of the workmen who spoke the English language—one a Scotchman, and the other a German, both of whom had visited the United States. We next visited the shot and shell foundry, in which we saw several tons of shot just turned out of the moulds. In the armory, the workmen were busily engaged manufacturing fire-arms for the use of the soldiers and 71 73 marines of the Brazilian service. As we were about passing through the yard-gate on our return, my attention was arrested by two females seated on the ground, a few yards to the left, in front of a one-story stone building with grated doors and windows.

On approaching them we learned by gestures that the building was a guard-house, and two of its inmates were their husbands. I looked through the grated door and saw several prisoners lying on a rough deal table, on which was standing a jug of water, and by its side were two or three loaves of brown bread. This scene having convinced me that there were persons in this wicked world whose conditions were worse than my own, I turned from the prison and the females seated at the door, and ascending the hill of San Bempo by a crooked and roughly-paved walk, soon stood before the convent of St. Benedict.

The St. Benedict is one of the oldest convents in Rio, having been erected in 1761, as I learned from an inscription over the door of the main entrance. On entering the convent, we were accosted by a monk who beckoned us to proceed to the second floor, which we reached by a heavy, antiquated flight of stairs, and passing to the left through a long, dimly-lighted hall, entered the choir, where we met a servant dusting the seats occupied by the jolly fat friars. After examining the choir, the walls of which were nearly covered with scriptural paintings by the old masters, we went into the side galleries, from which we had a fine view of the interior of the church with its richly gilded and carved 72 74 mouldings, which lined the walls and ceiling, and displayed vines loaded with grapes and mingled with flowers. Standing in niches in the walls were statues of the saints gorgeously dressed, and from the frescoed ceiling were suspended two massive silver lamps somewhat dusty with age. From the church we passed into the courtyard, one hundred and fifty feet square and covered with granite flags, under which repose the dead. From the convent windows we had a magnificent view of the harbor, the Island of Cobras, the city, its evergreen hills, the azure mountains in the distance, and the vast ravines furrowing their sides. From the convent we descended a zigzag path to the street, and after a walk of twenty minutes, reached the Hotel Pharoux.

Casting my eyes in the direction of the Emperor's church, I noticed a hearse drawn by six plumed horses coming to a halt in front of it. Before I reached the church, the gold-laced coffin had been removed from the hearse and placed on a bier or altar in the middle of the floor, and the corpse exposed to view by opening the hinged lids. On each side of the coffin were half a dozen priests and friars in black gowns trimmed with white, holding in their hands lighted wax candles four feet long and two inches in diameter, the lower ends resting on the tile floor and the tops inclining slightly forward. There was also a long file of gentlemen dressed in black bearing blazing wax candles, on each side of the passage leading from the hearse to the bier, although it was broad daylight! During the funeral ceremony, the officiating priest sprinkled holy 73 75 water over the corpse several times from a silver instrument somewhat resembling a child's rattle; then shook over it a censer of burning incense, which diffused its odor through the church. The ceremony being over, the priests retired from the church, and the gentlemen in black extinguished their candles and placed them in a rack. Some left the church; others removed the coffin from the bier and carried it into the receptacle for the dead, a court attached to the church. An excavation had been made in the wall, before which the coffin was placed and the lids again thrown open by the sexton. Holy water and quicklime were now thrown upon the corpse by the mourners. this part of the exercises being concluded, a requiem was chanted and the corpse left to be placed in the hole in the wall by the sexton and his black attendant. Having witnessed the commencement of the ceremony, curiosity prompted me to see the finale. Despite the surly looks of the sexton, I remained behind, with five or six other Americans, for the purpose of seeing the deceased placed in his narrow cell. The coffin, on being raised to the niche, was found too large for admission, but, with the aid of a crowbar, it was quickly reduced in size by knocking in the head-board and pressing down the lid upon the breast of the corpse! It was soon adjusted to the satisfaction of the sexton, and the entrance closed by a mason.

Remained on shore during the night, and slept on the soft side of a billiard-table, all the beds in the hotel being double-banked.

74 76
CHAPTER IV.

Visit to the museum—Precious stones, medals, etc.—Observance of the Sabbath in Rio—Washerwomen of the Campo Santa Anna-Visit to the Academy of Fine Arts—Paintings and sculpture—The Strangers' Burial-ground—Hotcorn women—American ladies bound for California—The Emperor's palace and garden—Visit to the latter—The Emperor's juvenile sports—Second night at the theatre—Dom Pedro II and Donna Therese—Slaves in Rio—Arrival of gold-dust from California—Arrival of the steamship Panama—News from home—California-bound vessels in Rio.

Sunday, March 11.—This forenoon, accompanied by two friends, I visited the museum, situated on the eastern side of the Campo Santa Anna, which is open every Sunday from ten o'clock, A.M., until two o'clock in the afternoon—admission free. The museum was founded by King John VI, in the year 1821, and is a large two-story edifice, comprising a main building and two wings. The entrance is guarded by soldiers, and there are attendants inside to see that no improper conduct takes place. The museum contains eight communicating rooms. Two are devoted exclusively to minerals of the empire, which are locked in tastefully-arranged mahogany cases with glass doors.

Among the minerals in the cases are ores of gold, silver, copper, carbonates, muriates, phosphates and 75 77 sulphurets of lead, ores of iron, jasper, agate, quartz, talc, mica, coral and limestone of various kinds. There are diamonds, and also crystals of white transparent quartz two or three inches in length. The most wonderful mineral is a crystalized quartz of a hexangular shape, fifteen inches in thickness and nearly three feet in length. Its weight is not less than two hundred pounds.

The specimens of the animal kingdom belong chiefly to the empire, and consist of the gray, black and scaly ant-eater, leopard, wolf, paca, guinea-pig, besides a great variety of the monkey tribe. There is also a fine collection of sea-shells, bugs and butterflies. The collection of birds is very large, mostly natives of Brazil. Among them may be mentioned the parrot, goney, joao, grande, turdus-regius, pavao of Matogosso, crax-galiata and anherma unicorne, bemtivi, torecans and gulls. The Brazilian reptiles are also largely represented, the boa constrictor and coral-horned crotalus being the most prominent. Two live specimens of the former are at the entrance to the museum, on the first floor. The specimens of fish are all dried preparations.

In the room containing the Chinese and Indian curiosities is a cabinet of gold, silver, brass, bronze and copper coins and medals. Among the latter are likenesses of Marc Antony, Seneca, Cicero, Francis and Maria de Medicis, Cardinal Mazarin, Pope Innocent II, Henry IV of France, Marquis Cornwallis, George IV, Louis XVI, Maria Antoinette, Anne of Austria, Charles III of Spain, 76 78 Ferdinand VII, Lord Howe, and many other noted personages. In one of the rooms is the most perfect specimen of an Egyptian mummy ever exhibited.

On my return from the museum, I noticed that nearly all the stores and shops were open, and business was being transacted the same as on any other day of the week. Carpenters and cabinet-makers were shoving the plane and saw, and the sons of St. Crispin were plying the thread and bristle as briskly as ever. The inhabitants of Rio do not keep the Sabbath more holy than any other day of the week. They generally attend mass in the morning, and act as fancy dictates during the remainder of the day.

Understanding that there was to be a bull-fight in the Campo Santa Anna in the afternoon, I repaired thither for the purpose of witnessing it, but for some unexplained reason it did not take place. At the fountain in the Campo Santa Anna were a score of black wenches doing their week's washing, and the way they made the soap-suds and shirt-buttons fly was a caution to washing-machines!

Monday, March 12.—

During the forenoon I visited the Academy of Fine Arts, a large two-storied stone edifice, to which visitors are admitted free. On the first floor are six ordinary sized rooms, which lead out of a spacious hall running lengthwise of the building. The walls of three of the rooms are covered from floor to ceiling with paintings, most of which are portraits of distinguished persons and citizens. There are several 77 79 scriptural paintings by eminent artists. An equestrian picture of Dom Pedro II, the present Emperor of Brazil, and a full-length portrait of one of the Empress's maids of honor are the most artistic and beautiful specimens of modern oil painting I have ever seen. Two of the remaining three rooms on the first floor contain statuary in marble and plaster, none of which deserve particular notice. On the second floor I gained admission to two rooms, in one of which were mahogany cases with glass lids, containing the dies and medals of the empire. The other was hung with portraits of monks, and friars, and scriptural paintings, and had the appearance of being used as a studio, as I noticed several unfinished pictures on easels around the room. The unfinished pictures were all copies, and several compared favorably with the originals. Having examined everything worthy of notice, I passed the guard stationed at the door, and crossing Theatre Square, soon entered the Rua de Ouvidor, which I followed down to the Rua Direita, crossed the palace square, and reached the Hotel Pharoux, where I dined.

In the afternoon a party was made up, myself being one of the number, to visit the Strangers' Burial-ground, and the Emperor's Garden at St. Christoval. Taking seats in the St. Christoval omnibus, in about thirty minutes we were set down near the entrance to the Strangers' Burial-ground, which is situated on the southern declivity of a hill facing an arm of the bay of Rio de Janeiro. 78 80 The yard is inclosed by a substantial stone wall about ten feet high, and the principal entrance is through a ponderous iron gate, which was locked. Our guide soon found the sexton, and we were admitted. After sauntering about for an hour, viewing the tombstones and monuments of those who had fallen victims to disease in a foreign land, we passed out of the yard, and engaging a boat on the beach, were soon landed at St. Christoval. On stepping from the boat, the first object that met my eye was an old negro woman seated on the ground near a small fire roasting Indian corn. I purchased an ear, piping hot, and while eating it my thoughts reverted to Philadelphia and her hot-corn vendors. Passing along a little further, we met an American lady and gentleman returning from the Emperor's Garden. After a hearty shake of the hand all around, the lady informed us that herself and husband were passengers on board the ship Architect, from New Orleans bound for San Francisco. She also informed us that there were five other lady passengers on board the Architect, two of whom had lost their husbands by cholera since their departure from New Orleans. I requested her to console the widows with the fact that they were bound for a country where wives were scarce and husbands plenty. I have no positive proof that my message was delivered; but I had the consolation of knowing that, as one of Job's comforters, I did my duty. Each bidding the other adieu, and hoping to meet again in California, we parted, the lady and gentlemen returning to the city, and we 79 81 continuing our walk toward the garden. We soon reached the palace yard or square, in which were lounging fifteen or twenty of the Emperor's guards in undress uniform. The palace originally consisted of a main building and two wings. The main building has recently been razed to the ground for the purpose of erecting on its site another of a different style of architecture, which, when completed, will be an imposing stone structure, four stories high with a tile roof.

The garden attached to the palace is the most beautiful in the vicinity of Rio, and is about five miles in circumference. Near the palace is a small lake, on the bosom of which the Emperor, when a flaxen-haired urchin, took his first nautical lessons, and the hull of his favorite yacht is still to be seen at the east end of the lake, high and dry on terra firma. Through the centre of the garden runs a stream of water over which is erected an aqueduct of solid masonry supported by innumerable arches and piers. In the garden are beautifully graveled walks which cross each other at right angles, and in many places are shaded on either side by rows of bamboos, whose tops unite and form magnificent bowers. It also contains a great variety of fruit-trees and plants, among which are the pintanga, cardo, maracaja, guava, banana, culambota, cocoa, mango, lemon, lime, caja, breadfruit, papaw arbacate, aresa, fruto de conte, genepa, sapucaia, fig, orange, palm, espinatree, legume, coffee, tea, and many plants both rare and curious, natives of the East Indies.

80 82

There was also a great variety of roses in full bloom, which diffused a grateful fragrance through the garden. As night was fast approaching, we passed through the eastern gate and soon reached the road leading to the city. The omnibus not having arrived, we walked two miles before it overtook us, then getting on board, Jehu plied his whip to the mules in a lively manner, and we were soon rattling over the pavements of the city. After supper, four of our party, myself among the number, engaged a private box at the theatre, and took our seats early for the purpose of witnessing the entrée into the royal box of their Majesties the Emperor and Empress of Brazil. The Emperor's box is on the same floor as the second tier of boxes, and directly in front of the stage. It extends from the floor of the second tier to the proscenium, and has a frontage of about fifteen feet. In front was a damask curtain looped up on each side, and the box was surmounted by the Brazilian coat-of-arms handsomely gilded. In the box were arranged arm-chairs for the use of the Emperor, Empress and suite. At a quarter before nine o'clock, the Emperor, Empress, officers of the imperial house-hold and maids of honor made their appearance, the entire audience rising and remaining in that position until the imperial family were seated.

The Emperor is an intelligent, modest-looking young man, twenty-four years of age, fully six feet high, with light-brown hair and whiskers, blue eyes and florid complexion. He was dressed in a plain black suit, with no other insignia of royalty 81 83 than a star or rosette on his left breast. He is greatly beloved by his subjects, and his constant endeavors to ameliorate their condition have gained for him the encomiums of the civilized world. I am neither a prophet nor the son of a prophet, but I predict that Dom Pedro II will make a mark on the finger-board of the nineteenth century not easily effaced.

The Empress is rather below the medium size, and looks somewhat older than her liege lord. Her eyes are blue and complexion light; hair light auburn, curling beautifully around her neck and falling in graceful ringlets on her shoulders. Her nose is large, which somewhat mars her features. When walking she inclines slightly forward. She wore a black satin dress with sleeves scarcely extending to the elbows, the edges of which, as well as the neck, were trimmed with lace edging. She wore neither rings nor bracelets, and was one of the most democratic specimens of feminine royalty I ever expect to see. The toilets of her maids of honor were gotten up more elaborately. Having become weary of gazing on royalty and a Portuguese pantomime, I left the theatre at eleven o'clock, P.M., and engaged lodgings for the night at the Hotel Pharoux.

[ Twenty-seven years later. After the lapse of more than a quarter of a century since the foregoing was written, I have had the pleasure of again seeing the Emperor and Empress of Brazil (this time during the Centennial year in my own country), and I am happy to say that my early impressions and predictions have been fully verified. By his 82 84 unostentatious and gentlemanly demeanor during his brief sojourn in the United States, Dom Pedro II has won “golden opinions” from all classes of men—snobs excepted! His kindness to the California-bound passengers while in Rio will ever be held in grateful remembrance by the author of this humble tribute to a great and good man. “The rank is but the guinea's stamp, The man's the gold for a' that.”

Vive la Dom Pedro II!]

Tuesday, March 13.—

I went on board the Osceola early this morning, and found the sailors busily engaged breaking out the hold preparatory to receiving water on board. I discovered among the cargo two barrels of pilot-bread belonging to myself with their heads stove in. After coopering the bread barrels I went below and spent the remainder of the day writing to friends in the United States. I also wrote a communication for the New York Herald over the signature of “S. Curtis”—my Christian name—giving a brief history of our voyage to this port, treatment of the passengers, etc., in which I went for the owners and captain of the Osceola in a lively manner, and concluded by giving a list of the California passenger vessels lying in the harbor of Rio.

The following passenger vessels from the United States bound for California, have put into this prot for provisions and water, during the past three months:

From New York. Ships— Sutton, 55 days; 83 85

DOM PEDRO II., EMPEROR OF BRAZIL. From a Photo taken in Philadelphia, 1876.

84 85 87 Christoval Colon, 51 days; South Carolina, 39 days; Tarolinta, 50 days; William Ivey, 42 days; Pacific, 42 days; Apollo, 53 days. Barks— Josephine, 45 days; Express, 52 days; Harriet Newell, 55 days; Cordelia, 39 days; Peytona, 54 days. Brigs— Mary Stuart, 42 days; Eliza, 43 days. Schooners— Roe, 39 days; Olivia, 48 days; George Emory, 43 days; Joseph Newell, 40 days; Laura Virginia, 38 days; William G. Hackstaff, 39 days.

From Boston. Ship— Capitol, 43 days. Barks— Oxford, 47 days; Maria, 57 days; Elvira, 47 days. Schooner— Anonyma, 38 days.

From Baltimore. Ship— Jane Barker, 42 days. Schooner— Eclipse, 47 days.

From New Orleans. Ship— Architect, 45 days.

From Norfolk, Va. Brig— John Petty, 50 days.

From New London, Conn. Ship— Mentor, 38 days.

From New Haven, Conn. Schooner— Montague, 40 days.

Wednesday, March 14.—

During the forenoon I wrote several letters for the brig's cook and steward. A part of the brig's stores came on board this morning, which on examination proved to be of an inferior quality. The hams and bologna sausages were tainted and mouldy. At eleven o'clock, A.M., the government water-tank came alongside, and we soon filled our water-casks, barrels and buckets with fresh water, which I hope will last until we reach San Francisco.

A Russian bark, bound for St. Petersburg, arrived in this port to-day direct from California 86 88 and reports eight barrels of gold-dust on board, taken from the placers of the Sacramento. The intelligence received by the bark corroborates all previous accounts in relation to the extent and richness of the California gold-mines. All hands are highly elated, and every man expects soon to become a millionaire. The Brazilians have also been attacked with the gold fever, and there are now in this port several vessels up for San Francisco. Fare $250.

After dinner I went on shore and deposited my letters in the letter-bag of a vessel which will sail for New York to-morrow. While on shore I saw a negro who was afflicted with the elephantiasis, one of the most loathsome diseases imaginable, but quite common in this country. His left leg was swollen to nearly the size of his body, and from the knee downward, protruded excrescences as large as English walnuts. The skin of the diseased limb appeared rough and scaly, and several of the toes had dropped off the foot. I saw others afflicted with this disease who had lost their lips and noses.

At sundown I purchased two bottles of wine for medicinal purposes and a handkerchief full of oranges, and went on board the brig.

Thursday, March 15.—

Ship-carpenters and sail-makers have been on board to-day, caulking the deck and repairing the old sails. The mechanics here are mostly slaves, consequently they do not work very rapidly. A Yankee mechanic would perform as much labor in one day as two slaves in the same length of time. The slaves in this city 87 89 appear to be well treated and seem happy. I asked several if they would like to return to Africa. Their reply was: “ Me no like to go back to Africa among the nigger thieves!” The industrious slaves here, as in the United States, frequently save sufficient money to purchase their freedom. The free negroes in Rio wear shoes; the slaves invariably go barefooted.

I shaved myself to-day for the first time in two months, and, if my looking-glass does not deceive me, I look one hundred per cent. better than I did before performing the tonsorial operation. Before I applied the razor to my face it would have puzzled a physiognomist to determine which I resembled most, a man or a monkey.

In the early part of this week I purchased a shot-gun, which I left with Messrs. Garrett & Co., who are furnishing the sea-stores for the Osceola, and they promised to obtain a permit from the custom-house and send it off with the stores this morning. The stores were sent on board the brig but the gun did not accompany them. I engaged a boat from along-side the brig and went ashore to ascertain what had become of my gun. Mr. Garrett informed me that when the stores were sent on board the gun was forgotten, which he regretted very much, and would send it on board the next morning. Expecting to sail on the following day, I concluded to run the risk of carrying the gun on board myself. I accordingly placed it on my shoulder, walked down to the boat, was soon on 88 90 board the brig and had the gun safely deposited under my mattress.

Friday, March 16.—

It has been raining incessantly during the greater part of last night and to-day. During the storm last night two of our sailors deserted from the brig, bag and baggage. Our Captain is very unpopular with the crew, as well as with the passengers, and I am fearful he will not be able to ship men in this port to fill the vacancies occasioned by the discharges and desertions from the brig. We are now short two mates and three men before the mast.

The steerage passengers have learned that their table cannot be constructed unless they double-bank the second tier of berths and stow the lower tier with trunks and other baggage, in order to clear a space amidships for that purpose. The passengers have all agreed to this arrangement, and to-morrow the table will be rigged up.

At one o'clock, P.M., the steamship Panama, Lieutenant-Commanding Porter, twenty-six days from New York, bound for San Francisco, put into this port for the purpose of taking on board coal, water and provisions. The Panama is one of the line of Pacific Mail Steamers belonging to Howland & Aspinwall of New York, and on her arrival in the Pacific will ply between Panama and the mouth of the Columbia River, touching at Acapulco, Mazatlan, San Francisco and intermediate ports. By the Panama we received New York papers of the 17th of February, being nearly a month later than previous accounts from the United 89 91 States. The papers received were a New York Herald and a Police Gazette, which after going the round of the brig were pretty thoroughly used up. Captain Fairfowl came on board about eight o'clock, P.M., very much fatigued!

Saturday, March 17.—

I assisted in the steerage to-day, breaking out trunks and other baggage and arranging the table. On examination we find that only twenty-six persons can be seated at the table at the same time; therefore, first come first served will be the order of exercises hereafter. We have engaged one of the passengers to act in the capacity of steward during the remainder of the voyage, for which we agree to pay him one dollar each on our arrival at San Francisco. We have inaugurated our new cook and new galley. The former answers our expectations, but the latter has been tried and found wanting. The boilers are too long. They run through the plate or top of the galley so far that there is not sufficient space for fuel, and unless this defect is remedied we shall be compelled to eat badly-cooked food until we reach San Francisco. The Captain has succeeded to-day in shipping a first and second mate and one man before the mast, which will enable us to put to sea to-morrow. The following California-bound vessels, having taken on board water and provisions, sailed to-day: ships, Capitol and Jane Barker; brig John Petty, and schooner Laura Virginia.

90 92
CHAPTER V.

Departure from Rio—Vessels bound for El Dorado—Auction sale at sea—A pampero —Its consequences—Putting a little whisky where it would do the most good—Hail-storm—Raffle for a monkey—Melee between a passenger and the steward—School of porpoises—Sudden change in the atmosphere—Its effects—All hands on an allowance of water—Horrors of a passage around Cape Horn subsiding—All-Fools' Day—“The Perseverance Mining Company”—Articles of agreement.

Sunday, March 18.—At nine o'clock, A.M., we hove up anchor, got under way and stood out of the harbor with a fair but light breeze. As we passed Fort Santa Cruz, we were hailed by the sentinel for the pass-word, which being given by the Captain, we glided along past the Sugar-Loaf, Razor Island, and were soon outside ploughing along toward our port of destination. Toward night-fall I went on deck for the purpose of bidding farewell to the highlands surrounding the harbor of Rio. The Sugar-Loaf and Sir Hood's Nose were scarcely discernible, and the highlands to the southward along the coast were fast fading from view. I bade them adieu and went below to construct airy castles and picture imaginary scenes in the far-off golden land to which I am bound.

The ship Architect, bark Harriet Newell and 91 93 brig Mary Stuart, bound for California, accompanied us to sea this morning. At sundown the Architect and Mary Stuart were five or six miles ahead of us, and the Harriet Newell about the same distance astern. Distance sailed, 25 miles. Lat. 23° 05'. Therm. at M. 78°.

Monday, March 19.—

Last night a fine breeze sprang up from the eastward, which we have carried during the day. When I went on deck this morning the Harriet Newell was the only sail to be seen, the Architect and Mary Stuart had, during the night, left us far astern.

During the forenoon an auction sale was held by one of the forward-cabin passengers for the purpose of disposing of sundry lots and parcels of nuts, fruits and candies, which, as caterer, he had purchased for his mess, but several members thereof being somewhat impecunious, he was compelled to resort to this expedient to reimburse himself for the amount expended for the articles. Most of the goods sold at an advance of one hundred per cent. over their original cost, which left a large surplus in the pocket of the purchaser. I had knocked down to myself a box of raisins, five pounds of almonds and three pounds of filberts. The raisins, on examination, proved to be rather too highly spiced with bugs and worms to suit my taste, I therefore closed the box and put it up at raffle—eight chances, at twenty-five cents each. I did not envy the winner of the prize. I stowed the nuts in my hat-box, and flatter myself that for some time to come I shall have a dessert after each dinner of 92 94 salt beef and hard-tack. Distance sailed, 140 miles. Lat. 24° 26'. Therm. at M. 80°.

Tuesday, March 20.—

During last night and today we have been favored with an eight-knot breeze. Now that the steerage passengers have a table to eat off of, they are no better satisfied than when messing on pig-pens, chicken-coops and water-casks. One thinks his messmate has more elbow-room than himself at the table; another, that he is not treated by the steward with the same degree of attention as his companion; and others imagine that a seat at the head of the table is preferable to one lower down.

Early this morning the bark Harriet Newell was on our lee-quarter, distant about five miles, and at sundown she was so far astern that she was scarcely discernible by the aid of a glass. Three or four of the passengers are on the sick-list, in consequence of having lived too fast while in Rio. Distance sailed, 184 miles. Lat. 27° 20'. Therm. at M. 82°.

Wednesday, March 21.—

The breeze of yesterday continued throughout last night and this forenoon, and has placed us 200 miles nearer to San Francisco. The two mates shipped in Rio have already become dissatisfied with the Captain, in consequence of his interference with their duty while in charge of the deck. I predict that both will be relieved from duty before we arrive in California.

At three o'clock, P.M., the western horizon became suddenly overcast with black clouds, and every indication of a pampero was visible. 93 95 Studding-sails were accordingly taken in, royals and top-gallant-sails furled, top-sails double reefed, the spanker brailed up and everything made ready for the approaching gale, which was soon upon us in all its fury. The rain descended in torrents, and the wind burst upon us with such violence that every rag of canvas was taken off the brig and she was hove to under bare poles, in which condition she remained during the night. The gale was the most severe that we have encountered during the passage, and I have no anxiety to witness another of the same sort. The brig shipped heavy seas during the night, which completely deluged the cabins. The steerage was dry, but such another waltzing of trunks and boxes, crashing of crockery and jingling of tin pans, pots and spoons, I never before heard. Passengers, as well as baggage and dishes, were in commotion. Some of the former were gliding about clothed in a single garment; others in a state of nudity, genuine model artists, looking as ghastly as ghosts and trembling with fear. I remained in my berth, but as I could not sleep in consequence of the constant rolling and pitching of the brig, consoled myself by occasionally putting a little whisky where I thought it would do the most good. Distance sailed, 179 miles. Lat. 30° 02'. Therm. at M. 78°.

Thursday, March 22.—

At daylight this morning the storm having somewhat abated, the storm stay-sail was set and the brig put before the wind. Other sails were set during the forenoon, but owing to the heavy sea, we have made very little progress. The wind at the present writing is blowing very 94 96 fresh and the waves are running mountain-high. During the rough weather last night the steerage galley broke loose from its fastenings, and we have had great difficulty in placing it in its former position, in consequence of the rolling and pitching of the brig. A sail was reported on our lee bow this morning, bound northward. Distance sailed, 30 miles. Lat. 30° 28'. Therm. at M. 76°.

Friday, March 23.—

Head-winds and cross-seas during the last twenty-four hours have prevented our making much progress toward our port of destination. The pampero has been succeeded by the equinoctial storm, and we may be detained in these latitudes several days by adverse winds. By way of variety, we were treated this forenoon to an old-fashioned hail-storm. This morning, soon after the cook had kindled a fire in the galley, we shipped a sea forward which extinguished it so effectually that it could not be rekindled for several hours. This caused a late breakfast and sour looks among the passengers.

While in Rio, two of our passengers purchased a monkey in copartnership, and his deviltry has kept them constantly at loggerheads with the Captain and mates. This morning his monkeyship took possession of the nail locker, and the mate threatened him with decapitation should he visit it again. This sanguinary threat having reached the ears of his owners, they informed the mate that they would like to be present when the operation was performed! Distance sailed, five miles! Lat. 30° 23'. Therm. at M. 75°.

95 97

Saturday, March 24.—

At two o'clock this morning the wind hauled around to the north, which has enabled us to steer our course. The sea to-day has been smoother and the brig has rolled less. We are off the mouth of the River La Plata, and may expect at any moment to be visited by another pampero.

This afternoon the owners of the monkey came to the conclusion that their pet was neither as agreeable a companion nor as profitable an investment as they first imagined, therefore they put him up at raffle, and he was won by the first mate. Distance sailed, 154 miles. Lat. 32° 13'. Therm. at M. 74°.

Sunday, March 25.—

The wind to-day has been light and baffling, and the brig has headed as many different ways as there are points of the compass. The weather is becoming gradually cooler, and the breezes are bracing and invigorating. Large flocks of gulls have been flying around the brig all day.

This afternoon a large shark, a regular man-eater, was observed following the brig at the distance of about twenty yards, which caused a lively time on board. The shark-hook not being at hand, a mackerel-hook baited with pork was attached to a piece of marline and thrown overboard. His shark-ship, after swimming around the bait several times, approached it cautiously and turning quickly on his side swallowed the hook with a yard of the line and disappeared beneath the water.

Considerable excitement was occasioned this afternoon in consequence of a melee between one of the 96 98 steerage passengers, a Philadelphia b'hoy, and the second steward. The former accused the latter of mixing the duff with water from the bathing-tub, which he said was “A lie, a d—infernal lie, Upon his soul a lie!”

This somewhat excited the b'hoy's ire, and he gave the steward a blow alongside his visage which caused him to see stars at midday. Distance sailed, 139 miles. Lat. 34° 08'. Therm. at M. 68°.

Monday, March 26.—

I went on deck at seven o'clock, A.M., and found the brig gliding briskly along with all drawing sails set. Since yesterday, the water has changed from a dark green to a light blue color, but whether caused by the commingling of the water of the Rio de la Plata or other causes, I am unable to state. This forenoon, while below writing, I heard a tremendous huzzaing on deck, and hurrying up I saw a short distance ahead of the brig a school of porpoises numbering several hundred, puffing, blowing, jumping, skipping and performing all manner of gymnastics. After having amused us half an hour with their feats of agility, they made their exit, playing leap-frog over each other's backs.

At one o'clock this afternoon the brig was struck by a flaw of wind, which carried away her main-royal yard. The broken yard was immediately sent down and a new one rigged and sent up. A broken spar floated past us to-day, which had probably been lost by a vessel off Cape Horn. We have 97 99 to-day seen five vessels bound northward. Distance sailed, 115 miles. Lat. 35° 43'. Therm. at M. 67°.

Tuesday, March 27.—

During to-day we have been surrounded by a thick fog, and the weather has been quite chilly. Flannel shirts and drawers, cloth pants and coats, which have been stowed away during the past forty days, made their appearance on deck this morning, and judging from my own personal experience, they were very acceptable. During the morning we had a fair but light breeze, which died away at one o'clock, and this afternoon the brig has been rolling and the sails flapping against the masts.

An albatross, measuring probably ten feet across its wings, has accompanied us all day, occasionally resting on the surface of the water for a few moments. The Captain being in a very bad humor with himself this afternoon, and wishing to curdle the milk of human kindness in the breasts of others, has put all hands on an allowance of water. Distance sailed, 189 miles. Lat. 38° 44'. Therm. at M. 63°.

Wednesday, March 28.—

The wind to-day has been blowing fresh from S.S.W., dead ahead, and the weather has been uncomfortably cold, the thermometer having fallen twenty degrees during the past four days. If the mercury in the thermometer continues to fall in this ratio, it will be frozen in the bulb before we reach Cape Horn. Those of the passengers who did not break out their flannels yesterday, have to-day donned their red shirts and California mining boots. Owing to a strong head-wind the brig has rolled worse and shipped heavier seas 98 100 to-day than on any previous occasion during the passage, which has kept both passengers and baggage constantly rolling and sliding about.

Several of the passengers have been amusing themselves by shooting gulls, albatross and other sea-birds which have been hovering around the brig throughout the day. All the birds killed fell overboard, not one was saved. Distance sailed, 94 miles. Lat. 40° 12'. Therm. at M. 55°.

Thursday, March 29.—

The wind has been nearly dead ahead all day, which has kept the brig six or seven points off her course. The sea is smoother than it has been for several days past, but the weather is quite winterish. The crew has been engaged to-day preparing the brig for Cape Horn. The foretop-gallant-mast was condemned and sent down, and a new spar sent up in its place. Sails split and torn since leaving Rio have been repaired, and everything made ready for the coming rough weather.

A hook and line baited with pork, was made fast to the stern-boat this morning for the purpose of catching albatross. About ten o'clock, A.M., one was hooked, but broke loose before the line could be hauled in. This afternoon, a school of whales, numbering forty or fifty, was discovered on our weather-quarter, distant about three miles. They accompanied us until sundown, at about the same relative distance as when first discovered. Distance sailed, 85 miles. Lat. 39° 29'. Therm. at M. 53°.

Friday, March 30.—

Throughout to-day we have been favored with a fair wind, and the weather is 99 101 much milder. During the past four days, I have been eating salt pork and hard-tack with a relish that would astonish both Jews and Gentiles. If I carry my present appetite to California, it will be a very expensive companion, with flour at $60 a barrel and beefsteak at $1 a pound!

This afternoon, the passengers have been gathered about the deck in knots amusing themselves by playing cards, dominoes, backgammon and checkers.

A humpbacked whale made his appearance this morning within 100 yards of the brig, and after blowing several times, shook the spray from his tail and disappeared. Distance sailed, 29 miles. Lat. 39° 34'. Therm. at M. 56°.

Saturday, March 31.—

The wind freshened gradually during the night, and throughout to-day has been blowing an eight-knot breeze, which is rapidly hastening us into colder weather. The weather during the past week has been very much like that of New England in the month of October—cold, but bracing and invigorating.

At the commencement of the voyage, the thoughts of doubling Cape Horn in the winter caused “Each particular hair to stand on end, Like quills upon the fretful porcupine;”

but the nearer I approach it, the less danger I apprehend in doubling it. We are now within 800 miles of Cape Horn, and the sea is as smooth as it was off the Cape de Verde Islands. Should the sea remain smooth and the wind continue in the same quarter as now during the next 100 102 eight days, we shall have passed Cape Horn and reached the placid waters of the Pacific. Distance sailed, 128 miles. Lat. 41° 13'. Therm. at M. 54°.

Sunday, April 1.—

Throughout last night, and up to meridian to-day, the wind has been light and baffling. At one o'clock, P.M., the barometer fell suddenly, and strong indications of a storm were observable, which caused the Captain to shorten sail forthwith. The men had scarcely laid down from aloft before we were struck by a white squall, which brought the brig down to her bearings and caused the spars and rigging to creak piteously. The gale soon subsided, and we were again gliding briskly over a smooth sea.

The steerage steward informed the passengers this morning that they were to have “fritters” for dinner, which caused them to eat a light breakfast and wait impatiently for the anxiously wished-for meal. At half-past twelve o'clock, the steward took his accustomed place at the steerage hatch, and placing his arms akimbo, cried out at the top of his voice: “Steerage passengers will please lay below and get their dinner!” This summons had scarcely ceased echoing through the rigging, before two-thirds of the mess were below gazing upon an empty table. After the rattling of boots on the ladder had ceased, the steward thrust his phiz below the hatch and asked the steerage gents if they were aware that the first day of April had arrived. Some relished the joke, others preferred “fritters;” but all acknowledged themselves sold. The steward, however, soon set matters to rights by 101 103 providing each person with a panful of “fritters” well slicked over with molasses. Distance sailed, 102 miles. Lat. 42° 30'. Therm. at M. 56°.

Monday, April 2.—

I went on deck at seven o'clock this morning, and found the brig steering her course with yards square and studding-sails set below and aloft. The weather, strange to say, instead of growing colder as we approach Cape Horn, is gradually becoming milder. The thermometer has risen four degrees during the past three days. This afternoon the wind has been blowing very fresh, and the sea has been rougher than usual, which has caused the brig to roll heavily and ship frequent seas.

The brothers Kelly and myself have to-day joined the “PERSEVERANCE MINING COMPANY,” which increases its membership to seven persons. I think we are now as well prepared for mining as any company bound for El Dorado. The joint stock of the company consists of twelve months' provisions, three tents, two batteaux, with mining implements of all descriptions and of the best quality. The following are the articles of agreement:—

“Know all men by these presents, that the undersigned have associated themselves together under the name and title of the ‘PERSEVERANCE MINING COMPANY,’ for the purpose of transacting business in California, and have mutually agreed upon and adopted the following rules and regulations, by which they mutually pledge themselves to be governed:

102 104

“ARTICLE I. It is agreed that there shall be one of the company chosen, by a majority of its members, who shall be styled Director, and who shall perform the duties of President.

“ART. II. It is agreed that one other member shall be chosen as Treasurer of the company, who shall have in charge all moneys and property of the company.

“ART. III. It is also agreed that there shall be one other member chosen as Secretary of the company, who shall keep the books and accounts of the same.

“ART. IV. It is agreed that the foregoing officers shall account to the company, at all times when requested to do so, and shall also be liable to removal at any time by a majority of said company.

“ART. V. It is agreed that each member of the company shall bear his own expenses until he arrives in California.

“ART. VI. It is agreed that each member shall contribute an equal proportion of the amount required to increase the stock of mining implements, provisions, etc., for the conducting of business on their arrival in California, which shall belong to the joint stock of the company.

“ART. VII. It is agreed that any member who shall withdraw from the company, after his arrival in California, shall receive only such portion of the joint stock as may be awarded to him by a vote of two-thirds of the members of said company, and he shall also receive his share of accrued profits at the time of withdrawal.

103 105

“ART. VIII. It is agreed that in case of the death of any member of this company, the survivors shall forward to his legal representatives his share of the profits at the time of his decease, with a full and complete statement of the affairs of the company, attested by the officers thereof.

“ART. IX. It is agreed that the company shall pursue such business in California, or elsewhere, as shall be agreed upon by a majority of its members, and that the expenses of the company shall be mutually borne and the profits equally divided among them.

“ART. X. It is agreed, and we hereby pledge ourselves, to support and protect each other in case of emergency and sickness, and in all cases to stand by each other as a band of brothers.

“ART. XI. Inasmuch as the evil tendency of the use of intoxicating beverages in promoting disturbances, and in rendering persons unfit for business, and their liability to injure health, being well understood, it is hereby agreed that from and after our arrival in California, no member of this company shall use intoxicating liquors of any kind, except in case of urgent necessity.

“ART. XII. It is agreed that in case any member shall intentionally violate either of the foregoing articles, or hereafter refuse to be governed by them, he shall, after receiving his share of the joint stock and profits of the company, be expelled there-from.

“ART. XIII. It is agreed that this company shall not be increased beyond the number of seven, 104 106 unless such addition be sanctioned by a unanimous vote.

“ART. XIV. It is also agreed that all vacancies that shall occur by death, expulsion or resignation, shall be filled by persons receiving the unanimous vote of the company.

“ART. XV. It is furthermore agreed that in all matters relating to the company, the voice of its members shall be ascertained by ballot.

“JOHN HEYBERGER, “SAMUEL C. UPHAM,

“WILLIAM FETTER, “AMOS S. KELLY,

“CHARLES S. KELLY, “GEORGE WILSON,

“THOMAS S. BERGER.”

The officers of “THE PERSEVERANCE MINING COMPANY” are:

JOHN HEYBERGER, Pres't. WM. FETTER, Treas.

SAMUEL C. UPHAM, Secretary.

Distance sailed, 112 miles. Lat. 43° 17'. Therm. at M. 59°.

[“The Perseverance Mining Company,” like many others formed en route to the new El Dorado by sea and land, “vanished into thin air” soon after the arrival of its members in California. George Wilson, of San Francisco, Charles S. Kelly and S. C. Upham, both residents of Philadelphia, are the only members of the above company known to be living at this time.]

105 107
CHAPTER VI.

Another gale—Salt-water coffee—Cabin stove broken—Another hail-storm—Terra del Fuego—Staten Land by moonlight—Double Staten Land—Death of Jocko, the sailors' pet—Furious gale off Cape Horn—The cook's galley capsized—Cabin passengers on a jamboree—Another gale—Drifting about in the region of icebergs—Raw pork and hard-tack—Fresh provisions all gone—Novel method of obtaining fresh grub at sea—Double Cape Horn—Boxing the compass—Passengers volunteer to stand watch—Capture of an albatross.

Tuesday, April 3.—Throughout to-day the brig has been skimming along at the rate of seven knots an hour.

We are within 600 miles of Cape Horn, and if we are blessed with a fair wind during the next five days, the Osceola will in all probability be pointing her head toward the north pole. This afternoon a school of porpoises played around us for several hours. The harpoon was made ready, and after several ineffectual attempts, one was finally struck, but in endeavoring to hoist him on board, the harpoon drew out and he was soon run down and devoured by his fishmates. Distance sailed, 168 miles. Lat. 45° 32'. Therm. at M. 61°.

Wednesday, April 4.—

At sundown last night the wind commenced blowing very fresh, and before midnight it increased to a gale, which raged with 106 108 such fury that the brig was hove to, and remained in that position until daylight this morning. Heavy head-seas have been running during the day, and the brig has been constantly plunging her head under water and shipping seas, which have completely deluged the forecastle and turned everything in that quarter topsy-turvy. The slush-barrel broke loose and jumped out of the bow-port, and a barrel of pork and the grindstone were about to follow suit, when they were secured by the cook and second mate.

This morning, the cook not having the fear of a rope's end before his eyes, treated the cabin passengers to a pot of salt-water coffee. The circumstance being reported to the Captain, he ordered the knight of the frying-pan and ladle and his assistant aft, and administered to each a quart of salt-water, which they drank with a bad relish, judging from the contortions of their physiognomies.

We are to-day about 40 miles distant from the eastern point of Cape Blanco, on the coast of Patagonia. During the past twenty-four hours the weather has been gradually growing colder, the thermometer having fallen ten degrees. Distance sailed, 115 miles. Lat. 47° 24'. Therm. at M. 51°.

Thursday, April 5.—

Last night the wind headed us off our course five or six points, but this forenoon it hauled around fair again and since meridian we have been steering our course with studding-sails set below and aloft. The heave seas of yesterday have strained the brig and caused a slight leak forward. The sea has been quite smooth to-day and the weather cool but pleasant. A land-bird, very 107 109 closely resembling a sparrow, flew on board this morning, and after fluttering about the deck and rigging a few moments took his departure over the lee-bow and was soon out of sight. A mast floated past us this afternoon. It had probably been lost by some vessel off Cape Horn. Distance sailed, 134 miles. Lat. 49° 17'. Therm. at M. 50°.

Friday, April 6.—

During last night and the greater part of to-day we have been heading our course, but owing to cross-seas have made but little progress. The weather is so cold that I have remained in my bunk nearly all the afternoon. Through the negligence of the Captain the cabin stoves have been broken, consequently the passengers have no fires to warm themselves by, which has caused unpleasant feelings. The steerage is at present the most comfortable part of the brig, and it is filled during the day with cabin passengers, some remaining during the night, preferring to sleep on chests rather than occupy their berths in the cabin.

We are to-day passing between the Falkland Islands and the coast of Patagonia, the former being about 40 miles distant. Distance sailed, 96 miles. Lat. 51° 39'. Therm. at M. 47°.

Saturday, April 7.—

In the early part of last night we were treated to a specimen of Cape Horn weather in the shape of a hail-storm, which lasted about thirty minutes, during which time hail-stones, from the size of a pea to that of a marble, fell in abundance. After the storm had ceased, the wind freshened, and before ten o'clock it blew a 108 110 furious gale, before which we were compelled to scud all night. The brig shipped seas constantly during the night, some of which covered the deck to the depth of three feet, carrying into the lee scuppers everything movable. The deck over my berth leaked like a sieve, and every time the brig shipped a sea I received a shower-bath gratis. Owing to head-winds and cross-seas, the brig has been laboring heavily all day—not making more than three knots an hour, and continually shipping seas. The moon changes to-day, and I hope the wind will follow suit and enable us to pass around Staten Land and double Cape Horn. At sundown we made Cape St. Diego, the south-eastern point of Terra del Fuego, distant about 25 miles. Distance sailed, 143 miles. Lat. 53° 46'. Therm. at M. 44°.

Sunday, April 8.—

Last night at midnight I went on deck for the purpose of seeing Staten Land. By the aid of the moon, which was somewhat obscured by clouds, I could discern the mountains about 6 miles distant towering to the clouds, their tops covered with perpetual snow. Staten Land—rock would be the better word—is a mass of barren rocks 60 miles long by 15 miles wide. The highest peaks rise several thousand feet above the level of the ocean, and are continually covered with snow, presenting to the mariner a prospect as cheerless as they are barren and frigid.

It was the Captain's intention to have passed through the Straits of Le Maire, thereby avoiding the passage around Staten Land, but as we were 109 111 about to enter them, the wind chopped around and headed us off.

At three o'clock this morning, we passed around the eastern point of Staten Land, and at daylight were off Easter Harbor, distant 10 miles, and heading our course toward Cape Horn, which we hope to double to-morrow evening; but all human calculations are uncertain, particularly in this latitude. Before nine o'clock, A.M., we were in the midst of a furious gale, accompanied by rain and hail, which has driven us off our course and compelled us to steer toward the region of icebergs during the remainder of the day. A fair wind for twenty-four hours would place us in the Pacific to the northward of Cape Horn, but a head-wind will prevent us from reaching that point until doomsday. Several of the passengers have amused themselves to-day by catching gulls and Cape pigeons with a hook and line.

The cold weather of the past week has been too severe for the delicate constitution of our monkey. He had a chill last night, which was succeeded by a violent fever, and this morning at daylight he was so far gone that neither hot drops, quinine nor burnt brandy could save him. At ten o'clock, A.M., he bade farewell to all things sublunary, and at meridian was sewed up in a duff-bag and cast overboard. Sic transit gloria Jocko! Distance sailed, 85 miles. Lat. 54° 56'. Therm. at M. 43°.

Monday, April 9.—

During last night the wind gradually died away, and this morning at daylight we were in a dead calm, an unusual occurrence in 110 112 this latitude. At seven o'clock, A.M., a fresh breeze sprang up from the south-east, which enabled us to steer our course with all drawing sails set, and glide along at the rate of eight knots an hour.

All hands on board have been agreeably disappointed in regard to the weather which we have encountered in the vicinity of Cape Horn. Thus far it has been quite as pleasant as on the coast of North America during the month of October, and there is every prospect of a continuation of fine weather for several days. At this writing, five o'clock, P.M., we are steering our course, and the brig is bowling along at the rate of nine knots. If we can only manage to hold this breeze until meridian to-morrow, we shall most likely be to the westward of Cape Horn. Distance sailed, 94 miles. Lat. 55° 44'. Therm. at M. 44°.

Tuesday, April 10.—

The wind of yesterday increased toward night, and at ten o'clock, P.M., it blew a furious gale. The brig shipped several heavy seas during the night, one of which capsized the steerage galley and broke it in several places. At midnight a huge wave broke over the forward cabin with such force as to cause several of the passengers to jump out of their berths and commence making preparations for a speedy departure for “Davy Jones's locker.”

The fair wind of yesterday impressed all hands with the belief that we would pass Cape Horn before midnight last night, and upon the strength of this supposition several of the after-cabin passengers had a jollification which lasted all night and a part 111 113

THE “OSCEOLA” IN A GALE OFF CAPE HORN.

112 113 115 of this forenoon. The participants were as drunk as Bacchus and as merry as lords. About the time they had gotten fairly under way with a full head of steam on, the gale commenced, and, with the roaring of the elements and the carousing of the revelers, the night was rendered hideous.

This morning at sunrise the gale had somewhat subsided, but in consequence of strong head-seas we have made very little progress to-day. We are still to the south-east of the Horn, distant about 40 miles, but hope to double it to-night.

This afternoon two vessels were discovered on our weather-bow, about 5 miles distant, heading the same course as we are. One of the vessels resembles the bark Harriet Newell, which accompanied us out of the port of Rio. The other vessel is probably the ship Architect. A cold, drizzling rain has been falling all day, rendering everything on deck, as well as below, very unpleasant. The sun being obscured by clouds to-day, no observation was taken. Distance sailed, by log, 50 miles. Therm. at M. 44°.

Wednesday, April 11.—

A terrific south-west gale has been blowing all day. During the forenoon the brig lay to with her helm lashed, in which condition she behaved admirably, although the waves ran mountain-high and threatened to over-whelm her at every roll. At noon the storm-stay-sail was set, and at this time, six o'clock, P.M., we are laying to under that sail, with the wind blowing a perfect hurricane. There are persons on board the brig who have doubled Cape Horn several 114 116times, and at different seasons of the year, and they all say this is the severest gale they ever experienced in this vicinity. When the gale commenced we were so near the southern extremity of the Cape that the loom of land was visible, and, had we been favored with a fair wind eight hours longer, we would have been steering north-west over the waters of the Pacific. To-day there has been no fire in either galley, consequently all hands have been compelled to subsist on low diet—raw salt pork and hard-tack!

At meridian we were 60 miles due south of Cape Horn. This afternoon a brig was reported on our lee-bow, distant 4 miles, laying to under bare poles. Distance sailed, 148 miles. Lat. 57° 10'. Therm. at M. 46°.

Thursday, April 12.—

During last night the wind subsided considerably, but owing to cross-seas and a strong head-wind, we have made but very little progress during the past twenty-four hours. The sun arose clear this morning, and has not been obscured by a single cloud. The brig is rolling heavily, occasionally dipping her lower yards.

The steerage galley was rigged up this morning, and although in a sadly-demoralized condition, has, with attentive watching, performed its usual office quite satisfactorily.

The fresh provisions laid in at Rio for the use of the cabin passengers, gave out yesterday, and all hands on board are now placed on the same diet—salt beef, pork and hard-tack, with an occasional plum-pudding boiled in salt water for dessert!

115 117

Yesterday morning, being impressed with a desire to have something fresh for the inner man, either in the way of fish, flesh or fowl, I suggested to a friend the idea of catching a mess of Cape pigeons, which are hovering around the brig in abundance. A fishing-line was accordingly rigged by my friend, and with the hook baited with pork, he caught a half-dozen pigeons before noon. The birds were handed to me for the purpose of being cooked, which operation I performed as well as my limited knowledge of the culinary art would admit of, and at six o'clock, P.M., we sat down to a supper of roast pigeons, stuffed with pork and onions. We ate the pork and onions— the pigeons were thrown overboard! Distance sailed, 50 miles. Lat. 57° 59'. Therm. at M. 42°.

Friday, April 13.—

Throughout last night and the greater part of to-day the weather has been cold, with frequent squalls accompanied by rain, snow and hail—genuine Cape Horn weather. Since the commencement of the stormy weather, the brig has been driven back to the eastward as far as Staten Land, and so long as this head-wind continues we shall drift still further eastward. We are further south this morning than at any time since we rounded Staten Land, and judging from the coldness of the wind, I presume we are in the vicinity of icebergs and fields of floating ice. The thermometer has fallen seven degrees in the past twenty-four hours, and being without stoves or fires brings forcibly to mind scenes in the Antarctic, related to me by an officer of the U.S. Exploring Expedition 116 118 who visited that icy region in the year 1839. While becalmed on the equator, a majority of the passengers were wishing for a gale—anything rather than a calm; but since we have been headed off so frequently, and driven about in these latitudes by adverse winds, the same individuals would gladly exchange positions with a vessel becalmed in the tropics, and also willingly submit to the shaving operation as performed by Neptune and his associates. Distance sailed, 84 miles. Lat. 58° 08'. Therm. at M. 35°.

Saturday, April 14.—

Early last night the wind hauled around to the north-east, and since that time the brig has been heading her course with all drawings sails set. The wind has been fair all day and the sea quite smooth, which has enabled us to leave the frozen regions of the south pole for those of a more genial temperature, at the rate of eight knots an hour.

During the past ten days we have twice been off the pitch of Cape Horn, and have as often been driven back or headed off by adverse winds, but as there is luck in odd numbers, I hope that we shall be permitted to pass this time with flying colors. Should we be favored with a fair wind during the next twenty-four hours, we shall at the expiration of that time be so far to the northward and westward of the Horn that it will be a difficult matter for old Boreas to head us off and drive us toward the icebergs again. Distance sailed, 106 miles. Lat. 57° 34'. Therm. at M. 38°.

Sunday, April 15.—

Throughout last night wind 117 119 W.N.W., with frequent squalls accompanied by hail and snow, and to-day it has been cloudy with strong indications of more snow. At meridian, Cape Horn bore north-east, distant 125 miles; therefore we are at last in the Pacific! Three cheers and a “tiger” for the Osceola!

This morning the Captain and second mate had an altercation in relation to the duties of the latter, which resulted in his being “broken” and ordered in the forecastle to do duty before the mast during the remainder of the voyage. It now remains to be seen whether the Captain will keep the “broken” mate's watch on deck or request the passengers to perform that duty, as was the case previous to our arrival at Rio de Janeiro. Distance sailed, 112 miles. Lat. 58° 11'. Therm. at M. 42°.

Monday, April 16.—

During last night and the greater part of to-day it has been squally with frequent showers, which has kept the crew busily engaged shortening and making sail. We are still steering to the westward, which keeps us in cold weather, but shall probably commence running northward to-morrow, which will soon bring us into warmer weather.

Now that we are safely around Cape Horn, all hands are more anxious than ever to reach San Francisco, and in order to induce the Captain to carry a little more canvas on the brig, eight or ten of the passengers have volunteered their services to assist the crew in working her during the balance of the voyage. Two vessels were reported on our weather-bow this morning, standing to the 118 120 westward. A large school of porpoises paid us a visit this afternoon, and when they bade us adieu they were minus one of their number pierced with a harpoon, but in our efforts to get him on board, the iron drew out and he floated to the leeward. Distance sailed, 80 miles. Lat. 58° 14'. Therm. at M. 40°.

Tuesday, April 17.—

Throughout last night and to-day weather squally and a Scotch mist has been falling, rendering the atmosphere chilly and unpleasant. During the past twenty-four hours, the brig has completely boxed the compass. Last night she headed west; this morning, at seven o'clock, north-west; at meridian, north; at two o'clock, P.M., south-east; at five o'clock, P.M., south, and at this writing, seven o'clock, P.M., she is heading south-west by west, which course the Captain desires to run until to-morrow noon, when, the wind permitting, he will steer northward.

Our volunteers performed their duty last night to the entire satisfaction of the Captain, but the damp and chilly weather of to-day has completely disheartened them. Three of the volunteers have made up their minds not to stand watch to-night, and have already turned into their berths. Distance sailed, 148 miles, by log. No observation. Therm. at M. 43°.

Wednesday, April 18.—

Last night and to-day the rain has poured down in torrents, and the wind has been blowing very fresh, causing the brig to roll heavily and occasionally to ship a sea. We 119 121 steered a west course to-day, up to six o'clock P.M., when the Captain wore the brig, and since that time we have been heading north-west, which will soon place us in mild and pleasant weather.

During the past two days, in consequence of the cloudy state of the atmosphere, the Captain has not been able to take an observation by the sun, therefore our position is not definitely known; but I am of the opinion that we are in the neighborhood of 75° west longitude, and latitude 58° south. If the Captain ascertains to-morrow that we are in 75° west longitude, we will steer our present course during the next two weeks, wind permitting. This afternoon and evening, several of the passengers have been trying to drive away dull care by playing chess, cards and dominoes. Distance sailed, 102 miles, by log. No observation. Therm. at M. 44°.

Thursday, April 19.—

At midnight last night the brig was headed off her course by adverse winds, and during the remainder of the night and all day we have been heading south-west by west. Thus far, all our efforts to get to the northward have been futile. If by chance we get a slant of wind that enables us to run to the northward four or five hours, a head-wind invariably drives us back to Cape Horn. We certainly have a Jonah on board! During the day it has been squally, with occasional showers accompanied by hail.

This afternoon one of the passengers caught an albatross measuring across the wings from tip to tip, seven feet and two inches. It was captured with a hook baited with pork. Having been inspected by 120 122 all hands, it was placed in the chicken-coop for safe-keeping. Distance sailed, 94 miles, by log. No observation. Therm. at M. 42°.

Friday, April 20.—

At eight o'clock, A.M., we were struck by a squall which carried our foresail completely out of the bolt-rope, and the yards and masts would have gone by the board had not the passengers jumped on deck and assisted the crew in taking in sail and making things secure. The first mate had charge of the deck at the commencement of the squall, but in consequence of his tardiness in the management of the brig, he was relieved by the Captain, who immediately clewed up and furled every sail with the exception of the foretop-mast-stay sail, under which we have been laying to during the forenoon. The squall has increased to a gale, and at this time, three o'clock, P.M., the wind is blowing a hurricane, which is drifting the brig toward Cape Horn at the rate of six knots an hour. After the gale had partially subsided, the Captain called the mate aft and read him a lecture on the management of a vessel in a storm, every sentence of which was rounded off with an oath, which drove the subject home and clinched it effectually. Distance sailed, 80 miles. Lat. 57° 33'. Therm. at M. 42°.

121 123
CHAPTER VII.

Another severe gale—Swollen limbs—Is it scurvy?—Captain and mate have a growl—Fight between two passengers—One of the passengers celebrates his birthday—Gambling on board, and the Captain's mode of suppressing it—Fair wind once more—Passengers again on deck—Punishing a ship's boy—Passengers object to putting into Talcahuana—Anchors gotten over the bow—Passengers watching for land—Make the coast of Chili—Head-wind—Driven out to sea.

Saturday, April 21.—The gale of yesterday continued throughout last night, during which time I did not close my eyes, for fear of being thrown out of my berth by the continual rolling of the brig. This storm is the severest we have encountered during the passage—the barometer at one time being as low as 29°.

Early this morning the mainsail, top-sail, spanker and jib were set, a new foresail broke out of the sail-room and bent on. Throughout the day we have been steering north-west by west, but owing to a light wind and heavy cross-seas, have made very little headway. During yesterday we must have drifted at least 75 miles to the southward and eastward, which places us in about the same locality that we were this day week. This morning a brig was reported directly astern of us, distant 122 124 about 6 miles, heading north-east. Distance sailed, 64 miles. Lat. 58° 15'. Therm. at M. 42°.

Sunday, April 22.—

The breeze of yesterday continued throughout last night, which has enabled us to regain what we lost during the gale of last Friday. This morning the wind chopped around to the north-west, which has compelled us to head south-west by west all day. Last night our amateur sailors again volunteered their services, and worked like Trojans, pulling and hauling at the ropes.

My feet have been very sore the past week, and to-day they are so badly swollen that it is with great difficulty I can draw on my boots. One-third of the passengers are similarly afflicted. Whether this swelling of the feet is occasioned by chilblains or the scurvy, I am unable to state, but am inclined to the belief that it is the incipient symptoms of the latter disease. Distance sailed, 130 miles. Lat. 56° 53'. Therm. at M. 42°.

Monday, April 23.—

Fair wind all last night and to-day, which has enabled us to steer our course over the Southern Ocean at the rate of six knots an hour. Should this wind continue until to-morrow evening, we will have made sufficient longitude to warrant our steering a northwardly course. The weather is as coquettish as a maiden in her teens. At sunrise the mercury in the thermometer was down to 41°; at two o'clock, P.M., it stood at 50°; at three o'clock, P.M., 52°, and in two hours thereafter it was down to 45°.

Two vessels were in sight this afternoon; one a 123 125 bark, on our starboard-bow, distant about 8 miles, and the other a brig, on our larboard quarter, 10 miles off, both standing to the westward. They are, no doubt, California passenger vessels. Distance sailed, 118 miles. Lat. 57° 14'. Therm. at M. 48°.

Tuesday, April 24.—

The breeze which we carried throughout yesterday died away in the evening, and during the remainder of the night it was squally, causing the watch on deck to be constantly exercising the sails. To-day we have been steering a northerly course, but owing to frequent squalls and a strong head-sea, have made but very little progress. The squalls have been accompanied by rain, hail and snow—gentle reminders of Cape Horn.

The Osceola seems to have fallen desperately in love with Cape Horn, and appears loath to leave, judging from the manner in which she is dodging around in this region. We are no farther from Cape Horn than we were ten days ago, and God only knows when we shall be permitted to leave this locality. A strange fatality seems to hang over us! Who is the Jonah? Distance sailed, 114 miles. Lat. 57° 04'. Therm. at M. 40°.

Wednesday, April 25.—

To-day we have been steering north by west with a light wind, consequently have made very little headway. A strong head-sea has been setting down from the north all the past week, which has retarded our progress.

The Captain and mate had a growl yesterday concerning their relative positions on shipboard. 124 126 The Captain swore that his views were correct, but the mate begged leave to differ with him, which at once aroused the old man's ire, and seizing a belaying-pin from the rail, he handed it to the mate, and in language more forcible than polite, requested him to knock his (the Captain's) brains out! The mate declined to perform the sanguinary operation, and the old skipper is still left to growl whenever he feels disposed to indulge in his favorite pastime.

A homeward-bound vessel passed us this afternoon to the windward, distant about 10 miles. This evening one of the passengers shot an albatross which fell on deck. The wings were given to the steerage steward; the skin and feathers were retained by the person who killed the bird, and the carcass will be served up to-day at two o'clock, P.M., for the especial benefit of steerage mess No. 1. Thank God, I don't belong to that mess! I can eat albatross, but I don't hanker after it. Distance sailed, 110 miles. Lat. 55° 48'. Therm. at M. 41°.

Thursday, April 26.—

Last night at eight o'clock, the Captain wore ship and stood to the westward until three o'clock this morning, when it commenced blowing a gale from the north-east which continued until noon, the brig scudding before it with canvas barely sufficient to keep her steady. At one o'clock, P.M., the wind lulled and the mainsail, foresail, jib and top-sails—the latter being close-reefed—were set, and during the remainder of the afternoon the brig has been heading a northerly course, which I hope will soon carry us into warmer weather.

125 127

One hundred days since we left Philadelphia, and we are not 30 miles to the northward of Cape Horn. Should the latter part of our voyage prove as tedious and unpleasant as the first, we shall all hail with joy the land of promise to which we are bound, whether we realize fortunes or not. If ever sixty-five individuals were more heartily disgusted with a sea voyage than are the passengers on board this brig, I have yet to make their acquaintance. Distance sailed, 144 miles. Lat. 55° 04'. Therm. at M. 46°.

Friday, April 27.—

Last night at eight o'clock, the wind headed us off our course, and the Captain wore the brig and stood to the westward. At two o'clock this morning a gale crossed our path and the brig was hove to under foretop-mast-stay sail, in which position she remained until eight o'clock, A.M., when the foresail and top-sails were spread to the breeze, and since that time we have been heading northwardly and rolling over the water against a head-sea at the rate of three knots an hour. Last night it was showery, but the weather to-day has been delightfully pleasant.

An altercation occurred this morning between two of the cabin passengers, which caused a general rush toward the scene of action. During the affray one of the combatants drew a knife from his pocket, which was secured and thrown overboard before he had an opportunity of using it on his antagonist.

This afternoon a cabin passenger caught an albatross measuring ten feet four inches across the wings, 126 128 from tip to tip. Distance sailed, 98 miles. Lat. 54° 46'. Therm. at M. 46°.

Saturday, April 28.—

The brig has steered her course all day with all canvas set; the weather has been mild and pleasant.

Night before last, our amateur sailors declined to stand watch in consequence of the cook's having refused to serve them with their accustomed allowance of coffee during the morning watch. The circumstance was reported to Captain Fairfowl, who soon arranged matters to their entire satisfaction, and last night they were again on deck pulling and hauling the ropes as usual. The past week the gambling fever has again been raging fiercely on board, several of the cabin passengers having bucked away their last cent. Some of them have become so infatuated with this damnable vice that they have cut the buttons from their coats, vests and inexpressibles, for the purpose of playing button bluff. Distance sailed, 134 miles. Lat. 52° 50'. Therm. at M. 48°.

Sunday, April 29.—

Last night the brig headed N.N.E., being two points to the eastward of her course. The weather during the night was squally with occasional showers. At eight o'clock, A.M., the Captain wore the brig, and since that time we have been making a due west course. The weather has been chilly, and this afternoon a cold, drizzling rain has been falling. Three weeks ago this morning we rounded Staten Land, and at this time we are only one degree north of the Straits of Magellan.

127 129

The old skipper turned out of his berth this morning in a very bad humor, and during the day has, to use a nautical phrase, been “working up” the sailors. They have been employed all day moving the larboard chain cable aft on the quarter deck, for the purpose of bringing the brig down more by the stern, thereby enabling her toil faster and make less leeway. Sunday brings no rest for poor Jack. “Six days shalt thou labor, And do all thou art able, On the seventh, wash decks And haul aft the cable!”

Distance sailed, 101 miles. Lat. 51° 39'. Therm. at M. 46°.

Monday, April 30.—

During the past twenty-four hours the brig has been wrestling with a head-wind and cross-seas. A cold rain has been falling since morning which has caused the passengers to remain in close quarters all day.

A faro-bank has been in operation in the after-cabin this afternoon, and several hundred dollars have changed hands. At sundown the bank was closed, but after supper it was again opened, and at this writing, eight o'clock, P.M., I hear the checks rattling on the table over my head.

The sun being obscured by clouds, no observation was taken. Distance sailed, by log, 114 miles. Therm. at M. 48°.

Tuesday, May 1.—

Early last night the wind commenced blowing furiously from the north-west, and at midnight we were in the midst of a 128 130 hurricane. At daylight this morning the brig was hove to, and she has been laying in that position, under the foretop-mast-stay sail, all day.

The after-cabin blacklegs opened their faro bank again this morning, and after gambling until noon, concluded to suspend operations until the storm subsided. Distance sailed, 35 miles. Lat. 50° 56'. Therm. at M. 48°.

Wednesday, May 2.—

The gale continued to rage throughout last night with increased violence. During the night, the brig shipped several of the heaviest seas I ever saw break over the bow of a vessel. She shipped one in the early part of the evening that washed the steerage cook and a ship's boy out of the galley and carried them on an excursion down the lee scuppers as far as the companion-way, where they brought up hard and fast against a chicken-coop jambed between a water-cask and the bulwarks.

The brig rolled so heavily all night that several of the passengers on the weather-side were pitched out of their berths among the trunks and boxes. Fortunately no bones were broken.

At daylight this morning the gale subsided, the wind hauled to the south-west, and we have been heading our course with all drawing-sails set, but a strong head-sea has prevented us from making much headway. This morning all hands were put on an allowance of two quarts of water per man. This arrangement will answer very well so long as the weather continues cool, but in a warmer climate it will scarcely suffice for cooking purposes. 129 131 Distance sailed, 28 miles. Lat. 50° 44'. Therm. at M. 46°.

Thursday, May 3.—

Throughout last night the weather was squally with frequent showers. Since sunrise the wind has been on the increase, and strong indications of a gale before midnight are visible. A Scotch mist has been falling all day, and this afternoon the brig has been completely enveloped by a dense fog. One of the steerage passengers celebrated his birthday yesterday, and the result was that at least a dozen of his companions retired to their berths in a state of inebriation. The brig has been surrounded all day by gulls, goneys, albatross and other sea-birds. Distance sailed, 116 miles. Lat. 51° 01'. Therm. at M. 48°.

Friday, May 4.—

My predictions yesterday in relation to a gale were verified. When the sun set last night the wind commenced blowing a severe gale, which continued until midnight, when it suddenly lulled and soon after we were becalmed. To-day the wind has been light and baffling, which has caused the Captain to wear the brig three times since sunrise. The weather during the forenoon has been foggy, damp and chilly.

Captain Fairfowl to-day issued a pronunciamiento to the blacklegs, and also gave the mate orders to furl all the sails and lay the brig to should he witness any more gambling on board during the voyage. This order created considerable excitement among the gamblers at first, but they soon cooled down and became as docile as lambs. The 130 132 Captain says, and he is in dead earnest, that there shall be no more gambling on board the Osceola, but all hands, including the cook, have permission to pray as long and as loud as they please. Tally one for Captain Fairfowl.

Now that gambling has been squelched, the Captain predicts a fair wind within the next twenty-four hours. We shall see. Distance sailed, 72 miles. Lat. 50° 30'. Therm. at M. 49°.

Saturday, May 5.—

At eight o'clock last night the wind hauled around to the south-west, which has enabled us to steer our course, which we have been heading, with square yards, for the first time in thirty days, but the wind has been so light that we have made very little progress. The crew has been employed reeving studding-sail gear, and I hope that we shall have studding-sails set below and aloft to-morrow.

This morning I had a fine view of a finbacked whale, which I should judge would measure sixty feet in length. Distance sailed, 110 miles. Lat. 49° 34'. Therm. at M. 47°.

Sunday, May 6.—

Throughout last night we were blessed with a fair wind, which has continued today, and wafted us along toward our port of destination at the rate of nine knots an hour. Several showers of rain, accompanied by hail, have fallen to-day, which have rendered the atmosphere chilly.

The weather foretop-mast studding-sail was set this morning, and it did good service until noon, when the wind hauled slightly ahead, and it was taken in. We have not carried studding-sails 131 133 before in thirty days, in consequence of continued head-winds. The Captain hailed the setting of the studding-sails this morning as a good omen, and immediately ordered an additional pint of water to be served out with our daily allowance, which will hereafter be two quarts and one pint, and shocking bad water at that.

To-day the passengers have had their mattresses and blankets spread on deck for the purpose of giving them an airing, which they needed very much. Early yesterday morning a bark was reported on our lee-bow, distant about 10 miles, heading to the northward. We gained on her so fast during the day, that at sundown she was nearly hull down astern of us. Distance sailed, 140 miles. Lat. 47° 20'. Therm. at M. 46°.

Monday, May 7.—

During the past twenty-four hours the brig has been steering her course at the rate of nine knots an hour. The weather is becoming more mild and pleasant, and “life on the ocean wave” seems more endurable. The passengers who have been shivering with the cold weather for the past twenty days, are skipping about the deck as lively as larks, enjoying a little sunshine. The mercury in the thermometer marked 53° to-day, being the first time it has reached that point in thirty days.

All hands were very much amused to-day by a novel punishment inflicted on one of the ship's boys. A pig, weighing twenty pounds, was slung under the right arm of the culprit by a lashing that passed over his right shoulder and around the body 132 134 of the porker. Thus accoutred, he was ordered by the Captain to march around the deck twelve times, which command he obeyed to the infinite amusement of all hands, who lined the deck on either side. The scene reminded me of a Scotch piper. At every step he jerked his elbow into the side of poor piggy, at the same time pinching his ear, which caused his porkship to discourse most shrill and discordant music. Distance sailed, 184 miles. Lat. 43° 58'. Therm. at M. 56°.

Tuesday, May 8.—

We had a fair wind last night, which has continued to-day, and the brig has been gliding along at the rate of eight knots an hour. The weather still continues showery, although it is gradually growing warmer.

We have, in the last fifty hours, made nearly 500 miles on our course, which is very gratifying to all on board. Yesterday, when the latitude was reported by the Captain, all hands gave three cheers and a “tiger,” which seemed to shake the brig from stem to stern, and add fresh impetus to her speed.

A diversity of opinion prevails among the passengers in regard to the port we shall next stop at for provisions and water. When we left Rio it was generally believed that our next stopping-place would be Valparaiso, but at present a rumor is rife that the brig will put into the port of Talcahuana. The old skipper is so obstinate that he will not gratify the passengers by informing them in which port he will drop anchor. Distance sailed, 190 miles. Lat. 41° 06'. Therm. at M. 55°.

133 135

Wednesday, May 9.—

Fair but light wind during the last twenty-four hours. The weather is delightfully pleasant, and all hands are on deck indulging in a sun-bath.

The agony is over. This morning the Captain altered the course of the brig, and since that time we have been steering direct for Talcahuana, where we hope to arrive day after to-morrow. This afternoon, at the request of the Captain, I made out a list of naval rations for eighty-two persons for seventy days. The provisions will be purchased at Talcahuana, and the probability is that we shall not stop again until we reach San Francisco. This evening one of the passengers had a severe attack of the cramp colic which came very near causing him to lose the number of his mess. Distance sailed, 180 miles. Lat. 38° 54'. Therm. at M. 57°.

Thursday, May 10.—

We are still blessed with a fair wind, and are jogging along at the rate of six knots an hour. Royal yards were sent up this morning, and we have carried royals and studding-sails during the day. The anchors were gotten over the bow this afternoon, the chain cables hauled forward and shackled, and everything forward made ready for coming to anchor. During the afternoon the tops and yards have been crowded with passengers watching for land, but they have been disappointed, no land being visible at sundown.

Yesterday morning, the second mate was called aft by the Captain and restored to duty, and during the remainder of the voyage he will be entitled to the privilege of sleeping in the steerage and eating 134 136 his meals in the cabin or galley. A school of sperm-whales made their appearance yesterday afternoon and accompanied us for several hours. Distance sailed, 143 miles. Lat. 37° 50'. Therm. at M. 59°.

Friday, May 11.—

We steered our course all last night, but this morning the wind hauled around to the northward and headed us off three or four points. At meridian the Captain informed us that we were 40 miles to the leeward of Talcahuana, therefore there is little hope of reaching that port to-morrow unless the wind becomes more favorable.

This forenoon land was reported half a dozen times by different individual, but like the Frenchman's flea, when they looked the second time it was not there. At sundown, however, terra firma was really discovered on our lee-bow, distant about 30 miles. Another school of whales visited us this afternoon, and after following in our wake for an hour turned flukes and disappeared. Several of the passengers have been busily engaged skinning and stuffing albatross and other sea-birds, but whether they will ever reach the United States, remains to be seen. Distance sailed, 112 miles. Lat. 37° 12'. Therm. at M. 59°.

Saturday, May 12.—

The wind continued ahead all night, and in order to work the brig as far to the windward as possible, the Captain wore her at the commencement of each watch.

At daylight this morning, the Island of Santa Maria and the Paps of Talcahuana were distinctly in view; the latter on our weather bow, distant 135 137 about 30 miles. We continued beating toward the harbor during the forenoon, and would probably have come to anchor ere this had we not encountered a norther, which compelled us to give the land a wide berth; therefore the Captain wore the brig and stood to the westward, which course we are steering at this time, eight o'clock, P.M. A cold, drizzling rain has been falling at intervals this afternoon, which has kept the passengers in their quarters.

The Captain and first mate had another growl in relation to the duty of the latter, and during the wrangle the lie direct was given on both sides. The old skipper swears that he will discharge the first mate on our arrival in Talcahuana, and the second mate says if the Captain does not serve him in like manner he will take the liberty of discharging himself. It is probable that both mates will be discharged at that place and other officers shipped to fill the vacancies. Distance sailed, 40 miles. In consequence of being in sight of land no observation was taken at meridian. Therm. at M. 68°.

Sunday, May 13.—

The norther of yesterday continued blowing furiously until two o'clock this morning, when it suddenly abated. Two hours afterward, the wind hauled around to the northwest, and the Captain wore the brig and stood to the northward and eastward, which direction we have continued all day. During last night we were driven so far to the southward and westward that we did not make the land again until five o'clock this evening. At sundown we were about 15 miles 136 138 to the windward of the harbor of Talcahuana. Owing to the darkness of the night the Captain will not attempt to run in, but will lay off and on until morning, when, if the wind remains fair, we shall run into the harbor. The passengers have been looking anxiously for land throughout the entire day, and several have dressed themselves for shore in order to be in readiness for the first boat that leaves the brig after the anchor is down. Distance sailed, 70 miles. Lat. 36° 35'. Therm. at M. 62°.

137 139
CHAPTER VIII.

Put into the wrong harbor—Passengers go ashore—Reception by the natives of De Chatta—Deserters—Dine with the Alcalde—Ascertain our whereabouts, and start for Talcahuana—Scenery en route —Chilian peasantry—Their respect for the dead—Primitive wine-press and threshing-machine—Quarter of a century later—Henry Meiggs—His arrival in Chili—Brief sketch of his eventful life—Peace to his ashes.

Monday, May 14.—Last night about eight o'clock we came very near running aground on a reef off the harbor of Talcahuana, which caused a panic among the passengers. We hugged the land closely during the night, and at daylight this morning discovered through the fog an opening, into which we ran, the Captain supposing it to be the harbor of Talcahuana, but soon discovering his mistake, let go the anchor. When the sun had dispelled the fog, we found ourselves in a small bay, the name of which we could not determine. We could not put to sea, as a stiff breeze was blowing directly into the mouth of the bay; therefore the Captain concluded to go ashore and ascertain his where abouts. The skipper gave the passengers permission to accompany him, and the boats were soon filled and pulling for the shore with willing hands. We landed near a mud hut with a thatched roof, which was occupied by an old man and woman, who received us with a hearty welcome, and set 138 140 before us wine, bread and apples, to all of which we did ample justice, and for which our host declined to receive any remuneration. We, however, prevailed on him to accept a cigar from each of us. We endeavored by signs and gestures to ascertain the name of the bay in which the brig was at anchor and its distance from Talcahuana. To the former question he shrugged his shoulders and shook his head, and to the latter he pointed to the southward. The old man soon started over the sand-hills to the northward and beckoned us to follow. From the top of the first hill we discovered a settlement about a half-mile distant, consisting of about twenty mud huts, for which we started at full run. On our arrival in the village the men met us with fear and trembling, and the women and children took refuge in the huts and looked cautiously at us through the cracks and holes in the walls, as we passed.

Among the first party that met us at the entrance to the village were a Yankee and an Englishman, who had deserted from a whale-ship at Talcahuana and were en route to Valparaiso, where they intended to ship for San Francisco. From the Yankee, we learned that the Osceola was at anchor in the Bay De Chatta, 9 miles to the northward of the harbor, and 27 miles from the town of Talcahuana. We also learned that there was a road leading to the village of Tome, distant about 7 miles and situated on the north-east side of the bay of Talcahuana, from which place we could embark in whale-boats and reach Talcahuana before night. 139 141 The Captain assented to our proposed adventure, and, after dining at the house of the alcalde, myself and thirteen other passengers started for Tome, where we arrived at five o'clock, P.M.

The road was very muddy and slippery, caused by the rain of the previous night, yet the scenery through which it wound, and the numerous picturesque views of the Bay De Chatta and harbor of Talcahuana, doubly repaid us for the fatigue endured while performing the journey. The peasantry of Chili are the most unsophisticated and hospitable people I have ever met. During our journey across the mountains we frequently stopped at their huts for water, and they invariably offered us wine, for which they declined to receive any compensation. At one hut at which I called for a drink of water, the señora was eating a quince, one-half of which she presented to me and insisted on my eating it. I complied without much persuasion, as fruit of any kind was a luxury after having been deprived of it for forty days. On the road we passed several apple-orchards, vineyards, strawberry patches and fields of wheat. At nearly all the road crossings, I noticed rudely-constructed crosses, one of which, fashioned more smoothly than the others, was entwined with evergreens and fancifully decorated with flowers—the work, most likely, of some dark-eyed señorita, who delighted in performing this office of affection over the grave of a lover or brother.

Chilian wine possesses a peculiar flavor, which I could not account for until I had witnessed the 140 142 process of manufacture, which is decidedly primitive. A large tub is partly filled with grapes which are crushed by the naked feet of the natives, and after fermentation the juice is bottled and labeled wine. In justice to the grape-mashers, I will add, they always wash their feet—after leaving the tub.

A Chilian threshing-machine is also quite as primitive and novel as the wine-press. The threshing is executed by mule-power, without the aid of machinery. A hard-beaten path or circle, very much resembling a circus-ring, is formed around the wheat-stack, and when ready for operation the sheaves are thickly strewn around the circle, and mules of all grades, good, bad and indifferent, are turned loose into the inclosure and kept moving lively to the music of the whip until the grain is thoroughly separated from the sheaves. A Chilian threshing-machine never requires oiling, but it sometimes becomes obstinate and kicks up behind.

[With the reader's permission, I desire to digress a moment from the thread of my narrative. A quarter of a century has wrought wonderful changes in the Republic of Chili. The wooden plough, primitive wine-press and threshing-machine have been supplanted by the introduction of modern and improved Yankee appliances. The world moves, and Chili now occupies a front seat in the car of progress!

To a single man, an American, is due in a large measure her wonderful progress during the past twenty-five years, and that man was the late HENRY MEIGGS, who died at Lima, Peru, on the 29th day 141 143

From a portrait, by the National Bank Note Co., N.Y.

142 143 145 of September, 1877, aged sixty-eight years. Harry Meiggs was, in many respects, one of the most remarkable men of the present century. The following brief history of his eventful life, gleaned from various sources, is believed to be correct:

Henry Meiggs was born in Greene County, N.Y., in the year 1811. He began life in Catskill as a lumber merchant, with the late James Milliard, who at that time was one of the most extensive lumber dealers between New York and Albany. Mr. Meiggs lived in Catskill until he was twenty-five years of age, going from there in 1835 or 1836 to Williamsburgh, L.I., where he again went into the lumber trade with Minor Keith, now living near Babylon, L.I., who married his sister, Clara Meiggs. Keith was formerly from Cairo, Greene County, and brother-in-law of General George Beach, ex-State Senator, who married his sister.

Mr. Meiggs remained with Milliard several years. He was the leader of the choir in St. Luke's Church. He was well versed in the lumber trade, highly respected, a man of tremendous energy, physically a perfect athlete, good-natured and gentlemanly. Speaking of his fists—you should have seen them! But perhaps you have seen those of the late Tom Hyer—Tom's mauleys were not the smallest.

Several friends went down to the Hook with Meiggs when he sailed for California in 1849, on board the old Havre packet-ship Albany. A party of Catskill men accompanied him.

He arrived in San Francisco in July, 1849, where he sold his ship-load of lumber at twenty 144 146 times its cost, making a clear profit of $50,000 on the venture. Then, with consummate discretion, he took a subordinate position in a lumber-yard, and studied all the phases and premises of the situation before he risked a dollar of his own capital. Foreseeing the future greatness of San Francisco and the inevitable demand for lumber, he quietly matured schemes for a grand success. When everything was ready, he hired five hundred men, sent them into the forests of Contra Costa County, felled the choicest trees in that then densely-wooded region, hauled them in saw-logs to the shore of the Bay of San Francisco, built them into huge rafts, floated them to a wharf which he had constructed, converted them into lumber by the agency of a steam saw-mill which he had erected, and made $500,000 in gold by the operation.

Thenceforth until he fell, Henry Meiggs was a foremost man in California in business, in municipal politics and in social life. He had three manias—land, lumber and music. His land and lumber operations were conducted on a scale of unprecedented magnitude; and he was popularly believed to be the richest man on the western coast of America. But, when the great financial pressure of 1854 seized California with its paralyzing grip, bankruptcy came upon him like an armed man. He rose to the contest with such enormous strength and such resourceful genius, that, had he sought only to save himself, he might have come off victorious; but, with the ill-judged generosity which was a pervading element of his character, he 145 147 attempted to save all his friends, and was by them dragged down into bottomless ruin.

In the frenzy of that death-struggle Mr. Meiggs succumbed to the tempter. He was a restless, alert and enterprising man, having at the same time a great deal of good nature, frank, open, obliging, doing a good turn for others, and getting a great many favors in return. Among the pioneers he was a marked man. He was elected to the Board of Aldermen as early as 1851, and served very acceptably for two or three terms. He ranked among the better men who at that time were connected with the municipal government. During the latter part of his service as alderman he became interested in street contracts, while engaged largely in the lumber business. He built the long pier known as Meiggs's Wharf, and probably did more than any other man to develop the North Beach side of the town. He built Music Hall, on Bush Street, on a part of the site of the present Occidental Hotel. At that time Harry Meiggs was one of the most influential men of the city. His reputation was good, and although he was a venturesome man, yet he could command an almost unbounded credit.

Captain Jacob Cousins, who was master of the bark America, in which Meiggs made his exodus, says that on the 26th of September, 1854, he was in the cabin of the bark conversing with Captain Wiggins, who was then in command of the vessel, when Vickery Seaman, a warm personal friend of Meiggs, and connected with him in business, came 146 148 aboard and announced that he had bought the vessel, and asked Captain Cousins if he would take charge of her. The Captain asked where the vessel was going, to which Seaman replied, “Probably to Australia with passengers, and I want you to ballast the vessel and get ready for sea as soon as possible.”

The Captain knew that Meiggs was very much embarrassed financially, and suspected that he was to be the principal passenger, but said nothing of his suspicions, simply accepting the command. The vessel was fitted up just as any ordinary lumber coaster, as far as cabin accommodations were concerned, with very little furniture, and no carpet on the floor. The only extra expense incurred for the comfort of the expected passengers was in furnishing two small state-rooms forward for officers' quarters, and the purchase of a second-hand sofa for the cabin. On the 3d of October the Captain reported the vessel ready for sea, and about nine o'clock the same evening, Seaman came on board and told Captain Cousins that Henry Meiggs and his family were the passengers going in the ship. At midnight Seaman and the Captain went ashore in the ship's boat alone, landing at Broadway wharf, where they left the boat and went up to Mr. Meiggs's residence. They were met at the door by Mr. Meiggs, who took the Captain by the hand, saying, “Captain, this is hell, but I can't help it.” In the house, besides Mrs. Meiggs and her three children, were Ned Seaman, a young man named Gilchrist, a clerk in Meiggs's employ, John G. Meiggs, David Thayer, a cousin of Meiggs, and two servant girls. The party sat 147 149 and talked until three o'clock in the morning, during which time Meiggs spoke freely of his troubles. As the clock struck three, Captain Cousins announced that it was time they were going on board. Meiggs jumped up, put on his hat, and giving it a knock on the top, said, “I'm ready.” John Meiggs then produced a sack containing $10,000 in gold, which was emptied out on a table and divided into two equal portions, Captain Cousins taking one-half and Henry Meiggs the other. This is all the money that went on board of the vessel. The entire party then walked down to the wharf, where Gilchrist and Ned Seaman took leave, and the rest getting into the boat, the Captain sculled them out to the bark. In the morning a thick fog hung over the bay, and there was not a breath of air stirring. A tug was engaged to tow them out to sea, but the fog was so dense that they could not find their way out through the Golden Gate, and the vessel was anchored off Fort Point.

About four o'clock in the afternoon they again got under way, and were towed out as far as the North Head. After making a few tacks, the Captain found that the tide was drifting them back into the bay, and he was again forced to come to anchor. At high water, the Captain hove up anchor and drifted out with the tide in a dense fog. Toward morning a light wind sprang up from the land, and by daylight they were half-way to the Farallones.

There they lay becalmed for two days, but the fog was so thick that they felt no uneasiness about being followed. During all this time, Mr. Meiggs 148 150 was calm and cheerful, not showing the slightest sign of excitement. The story about the pistol in readiness to commit suicide the Captain pronounced absurd, as the only fire-arm on board was a revolver belonging to himself, which was never loaded. A breeze finally came, and the vessel was kept away to the southward. After getting clear of the land, Mr. Meiggs, in answer to an inquiry as to where he wished to go, said to the Captain that he might go where he pleased, but that he should like to see some of the South Sea Islands, and then go to Australia or Chili. They first went to Otahiti, where they remained thirteen days, leaving there just three days before the papers from San Francisco, with an account of Meiggs's flight, arrived. They then touched at Pitcairn Island, where they lay two days, and from there sailed for Talcahuana, Chili. Meiggs landed there and took his family up to the city of Concepcion for a short time.

He engaged as sub-contractor of bridges on a railroad then in process of construction in Chili. His remarkable executive ability drew attention to him. He was a driving man, and could get more work out of native laborers than any one else. The story of his sudden departure from San Francisco injured him in his early efforts. But soon after ex-Governor Bigler became Minister to Chili; a kind-hearted man, who was disposed to look on the better side of Meiggs's life. The fact that Bigler recognized him and was on friendly terms with him, produced a favorable impression upon the people. Meiggs could not be a very bad man, if the 149 151 American Minister was disposed to overlook his irregularities. A short time afterward, he contracted with the Chilian government to complete the Santiago and Valparaiso Railroad in four years, for $12,000,000. He completed the work in about two years, making a clear profit of over $1,300,000. Then followed other gigantic railroad enterprises, chief among which was the railroad from Arequipa to Mollindo, in Peru, completed in 1871, from which he derived a very large profit. He celebrated the completion of this road by a lavish expenditure of money for a public dinner and for gold and silver medals, the outlay being not less than three-fourths of a million dollars. He afterward contracted for six railways in Peru, most of which he completed, the longest being that which extends from Callao to the summit of the Andes and beyond, and which was intended to tap the rich valleys near the head waters of the Amazon River. It was the most stupendous enterprise ever undertaken by one man. The engineering on this railroad is one of the marvels of the world. But the road did not pay, and for two or three years Meiggs fell into financial embarrassments. He seems at all times to have had the confidence of the government, and it is understood that the Peruvian government indorsed all his railroad paper, although this did not bring him out of his difficulties. He was the financial brains of Peru. His last project was to tap some famous silver mines and make the transportation of the ores to the coast a profitable business for his road. Had he lived, he would probably have 150 152 developed a new era of silver-mining in Peru, in connection with his railroad enterprises. His financial troubles no doubt shortened his life by many years. He carried a load which finally crushed him. As a railroad builder, he stood in the front rank. He was a man, also, of considerable taste. His residence near the road, between Callao and Lima, was one of the grandest palaces occupied by any private individual in South America.

A few years ago, the friends of Meiggs in California sought to have his disabilities removed, so that he might return to that State. A bill to this effect became a law, but he never returned. He provided for the redemption of his outstanding paper in that State, and to a great extent he redeemed the great error of his early life. For that error nothing now need be said by way of palliation. It was the cloud on the life of a man whose aftercareer was an honorable record, and who was, in respect to great enterprises, the most conspicuous man of modern times.

Brave, noble, generous, chivalric Harry Meiggs! We all recollect the blazing cathedral at Santiago, and how he risked his own life to save the lives of others. That was Meiggs all over. As to his failings, let him that has none cast the first stone. Those who knew him, loved him. [ They will drop a tear to his memory.]

151 153
CHAPTER IX.

Arrive at Tome—Dog-meat vs. mutton—Embark in a whale-boat for Talcahuana—The Red Lion and its landlord—The Señoritas —A night on a dining-table—The market—Coal mines—Feast on muscles—Funeral of a whaleman—Chilian fandango—Chilians, male and female—Females making their toilet—Passengers arrive from De Chatta—Arrival of the Osceola in the harbor of Talcahuana—Breach of the Marine Laws of Chili—Threatened confiscation of the brig—Visit to the city of Concepcion—California-bound vessels in Talcahuana—Funeral procession—Visit to the Paps.

TOME contains about two hundred adobe huts with thatched roofs and earth floors, and a population of about one thousand persons. Among its residents are fifteen or twenty Americans and Englishmen connected with the flouring mills, and they are literally coining money. Dogs are as plentiful in Tome as negroes in Rio, and fleas are abundant both in and out of doors. Bow-wow meat is considered as great a delicacy with the Chilians as is rat flesh among the inhabitants of the Celestial Empire. I saw a dog on the stall of a butcher dressed ready for market, which circumstance will prevent me from eating mutton during my stay in Chili. Whistling was strictly prohibited in that market.

At sundown we chartered a whale-boat for $10 to convey us across the bay to Talcahuana, distant 21 miles, and after shivering in the night-air for four hours, arrived at our destination.

152 154

On our arrival, we repaired to the Red Lion Hotel, kept by a Yankee of the name of Keen, where we partook of a miserably-cooked supper for which we paid three reals each. After supper we informed the landlord that we wished to retire for the night, but imagine our surprise on being told that he had no beds. He informed us that lodging was not his bill of fare, boarders not being lodged at any of the hotels in town. He very politely informed us that we could be accommodated with lodgings by the señoritas about town, they being the only persons authorized to take in strangers during the night. Several of the party followed the directions of the landlord, but myself and ten others obtained permission to make a fieldbed on the dining-tables, where we slept soundly until morning, although the fleas punctured us severely.

Tuesday, May 15.—

After breakfast, accompanied by a party of friends, I visited the market, a rudely-constructed one-story frame building, resembling very much a row of sheds, inclosing a hollow square. The area or court, about eighty feet square, at the time of our visit was occupied by a squad of halfnaked natives pitching reals, a silver coin of about the value of one dime United States currency. The sheds inclosing the area were divided into stalls, in which were exposed for sale flesh, fish and fowl of various kinds, and fruit in great abundance. The pears and grapes were truly luscious.

From the market we strolled leisurely along the beach toward the southern part of the town for the 153 155 purpose of visiting the coal mines. The bituminous coal taken from these mines is of a good quality and yields a fair profit to the owner, an Englishman, long a resident of the country.

On the beach to the southward of the coal mines we discovered the bones of a huge monster, which we conjectured to be a mastodon, but I have since learned that it was the skeleton of that leviathan of the deep— a whale.

Having heard the South American muscles very highly spoken of by epicures, I resolved upon testing their quality. I accordingly repaired to the boat of a fisherman and by gestures made known my wants to the owner. A fire was soon kindled on the beach, and a quantity of bivalves placed around it, and, as fast as roasted, I devoured them with a gusto that would have caused a blush on the face of a New York alderman.

In the afternoon I attended the funeral of a young man belonging to the whale-ship Franklin of New Bedford, who was poisoned by one of the cyprians of Talcahuana during a fit of jealousy. The poison was administered in wine, and he survived the fatal drug forty-eight hours. His remains were followed from the custom-house landing to the burial-ground by a procession of over five hundred Americans, a majority of whom belong to the California passenger vessels at anchor in this port. At the grave a chapter was read from the Bible and an impressive and appropriate prayer made by the doctor of the ship Trescott of Boston. At the conclusion of the prayer the coffin was lowered into 154 156 the grave, and the “clods of the valley” soon hid from mortal ken the remains of one who, but a few months previously, had left the home of his boyhood with buoyant spirits and elated hopes to be cut down in a strange land, without father, mother, sister or brother to soothe his last moments or listen to his dying prayer; but he died surrounded by friends, and his remains were deposited in their last earthly resting-place by his own countrymen, who dropped many a tear on the grave of the young whaleman who had found a premature grave in a foreign land.

In the evening, accompanied by five or six friends, I strolled about the town for the purpose of “seeing the elephant” in Chili. We visited several fandango establishments, well filled with mixed audiences, who were “Tripping the light fantastic toe,”

to the music of the castanets and guitar. The Chilian women—those whom I have seen—are not very prepossessing. They are low in stature and inclined to corpulency, which gives them a squatty appearance. Their hair and eyes are jet black, and complexion a light copper color. Their cheekbones are very prominent, and the general contour of their faces reminds one very much of the North American Indians. They paint highly, and, like their American sisters, are passionately fond of dress, invariably preferring bright and gaudy colors. The males are somewhat taller than the females, but in complexion and general features resemble 155 157 them very much. They are generally an idle, indolent class of people, laboring only when necessity compels them to do so. The Chilians are blessed with a soil as fertile as any on which the sun shines, and their climate is a perpetual summer; yet, with all these natural advantages, they remain a poor, flea-bitten, priest-ridden people! In the cities and large towns native labor commands only one real, twelve and a half cents, per day, and in the country, scarcely half that amount. American and English mechanics receive from $3 to $10 per day, and clerks and accountants from $1,500 to $2,000 per annum.

At night, I occupied my former quarters on the dining-table at the Red Lion, with fleas here, there and everywhere, but not one could I catch.

Wednesday, May 16.—

Early this morning I visited the slaughter-house, situated on a small stream in the northern suburb of the town. During the half-hour I remained there, some six or eight beeves were killed and dressed ready for the market. Beef in Talcahuana is remarkably cheap, selling on an average at three cents per pound. On my return to town I passed half a dozen dark-eyed señoritas seated on the ground around a spring of water making their toilets. As I approached them, they arose and saluted me in the language of the country, which I could not understand, but presume it was complimentary. I therefore raised my hat, made one of my best bows and passed on.

On reaching the town, I stopped at a ten-pin alley kept by a Yankee from New Bedford, where I met 156 158 eight or ten of my fellow-passengers just arrived from De Chatta, where the Osceola lay wind-bound when they left her at three o'clock yesterday afternoon. They left the brig at so late an hour that they were benighted on the road and compelled to remain over night at the hacienda of a farmer, who treated them with great kindness and hospitality. They were feasted on eggs, bread, apples, grapes and wine during the first part of the night, and during the latter part, by way of variety, were treated to a little flea-botomy.

From the ten-pin alley we went down to the custom-house landing, and looking toward the mouth of the harbor saw a brig beating in which proved to be the Osceola, and in about two hours she came to anchor off the town. After the brig had been boarded by the Port Captain and Custom-house Officer, we chartered a boat and went on board. As soon as we reached the deck the Captain informed us that the brig, by running into the Bay De Chatta, had committed a breach of the marine laws of Chili and, he feared, would be confiscated. The Captain of the port informed Captain Fairfowl, that the Osceola with her cargo was liable to confiscation, in consequence of the passengers having landed before the vessel had been boarded by the port officers. I think we shall be able to prove to the entire satisfaction of the Chilian government that we put into De Chatta by mistake, and that no contraband goods have been landed from the brig. I fear we shall be detained in port longer than may prove agreeable, and perhaps compelled to pay a 157 159 fine; but I cannot believe that the brig and her cargo will be confiscated. If so, God help us passengers.

Having slept very little during the two previous nights, I stripped off my clothes, shook the fleas out of my pantaloons and turned into my berth with the hope of enjoying a good night's rest, and I was not disappointed.

Thursday, May 17.—

I went on shore at eight o'clock this morning and joined a party of friends who were about to start on foot for the city of Concepcion, 9 miles distant. We set out, staff in hand, and after traveling three hours over a sandy road, arrived at the city of a thousand earthquakes very much fatigued and as hungry as half-famished wolves. On the road we met several Chilians armed to the teeth, but we passed unmolested, although those Job's comforters, the Talcahuanans, informed us that we would be lassoed and robbed en route! Passing through a thicket of chaparral, we saw several of the cut-throat gentry near the road mounted on ponies, with lassos hanging in coils over the horns of their saddles. As we passed them they cried out in broken English, “California!” and spurring their animals, soon disappeared in the bushes. On our arrival in the city, we ordered dinner at a hotel kept by a Yankee from the land of baked beans and pumpkin pies, of the name of Brooks. Our dinner consisted of boiled eggs, stewed chickens, beefsteak and potatoes, with a dessert of cheese, grapes and pears, which we quickly dispatched. After dinner I had a chat 158 160 with Brooks, who informed me that he deserted from a whale-ship on this coast six years ago, and in the meantime had worked at brickmaking, shoemaking, carpentering, butchering, and had during the past four months kept a hotel, which he informed me was the luckiest move of his life. He said he was coining money. At parting I shook him heartily by the hand—for he had given us a good dinner at a reasonable price—and wished him continued success in the hotel business. He thanked me, and added, when business got dull he would pull up stakes and squat in California.

After leaving the Yankee landlord, we strolled through the city for a short time, and toward night clambered to the top of a mountain near by for the purpose of viewing the city and surrounding country. From our elevated position we had a magnificent view of Concepcion, the surrounding country and the River Biobio, winding at the base of green hills and furrowed ravines, on its way to the Pacific.

The city of Concepcion is situated on the northern bank of the Biobio, about 10 miles above its entrance into the ocean, and is built on a plain, surrounded on three sides by high hills. Concepcion, at this time, contains about thirteen hundred one-story houses and mud huts and a population of fifteen thousand inhabitants, one-eighth of whom are foreigners. In the year 1836, the entire city, with the exception of three houses, was destroyed by an earthquake, and all the buildings erected since that time, with two exceptions, the cathedral and 159 161 the residence of the governor, are one story high. Every attempt during the past hundred years to add an additional story to the former has proved abortive. Before the walls had become thoroughly dry, an earthquake shock would crack them so badly that life and limb required their removal. But hope on, hope ever, seems to be the prevailing motto with the Chilians, and I presume the process of shaking down and rebuilding will continue indefinitely. The habitations of the poorer classes are built of adobes, with thatched roofs and earth floors. The wealthier classes live in more substantial buildings, the walls being fully three feet in thickness, and in many instances constructed of kiln-burned bricks. The roofs are mostly covered with tiles composed of the same materials as the bricks, and the floors are also constructed of large oblong bricks or tiles, and in many cases covered with Brussels and Turkish carpets of rare and exquisite workmanship. The dwellings of the aristocracy are built in the form of a hollow square, the area or court in the centre answering the double purpose of house and stable-yard.

This being Ascension Day, and the inhabitants zealous Catholics, nearly all the shops and other places of business were closed; consequently, the city presented rather a sombre and gloomy appearance. In the evening we fell in with a Frenchman, for ten years a resident of Chili, who informed us that he would accommodate some of our party with lodgings. Three of us accepted his invitation and 160 162 accompanied him home, where we found good beds and few fleas.

Friday, May 18.—

We arose at eight o'clock, A.M., very much refreshed with a good night's rest, and while breakfast was being prepared, our host showed us around his premises, which would have done credit to a citizen of the land of steady habits. He carried on baking, shoemaking, tanning and last, though not least, “took in strangers” and sold aguardiente and vino. The different branches of business carried on under the same roof were all under the supervision of our host, who informed us that he was making very mooch monish, and judging from appearances he told the truth.

Breakfast was delayed until half-past ten o'clock, but what was lost in time was fully made up in variety, as the following bill of fare will attest: First course, chicken soup; second ditto, beefsteak and onions; third ditto, fried fish; fourth ditto, boiled fish, dressed with butter; fifth ditto, baked leg of mutton and celery; sixth ditto, cheese, fruit and wine. Each of us being blessed with a good appetite, the different courses disappeared rapidly, which, to use the little Frenchman's own words, pleased him very mooch. There were others present equally well pleased.

After breakfast we visited the store of a Philadelphian, of the name of Johns, who had just left for Talcahuana, therefore we did not have the pleasure of making his acquaintance. His clerk, however, introduced us to Mrs. Johns, a Chilian lady, rather above the medium size and very fleshy. 161 163 Her countenance was quite pleasing and her eyes and hair as dark as the wing of a raven. She regretted very much her husband's absence, and in broken English urged us very strongly to remain until his return, as he would be very much pleased to meet with Philadelphians. We were compelled to decline her kind invitation, but before leaving took the liberty of using for a few moments a Fairbank's scales standing in the store. I kicked the beam at one hundred and forty-five pounds, having added fifteen pounds to my avoirdupois since leaving Philadelphia. After sauntering about the city until three o'clock, P.M., we bade Concepcion adieu and started for Talcahuana, where we arrived at six o'clock.

We were overtaken on the road by two Chilians on horseback, who requested two of our party to ride behind them to Talcahuana. Mr. Butcher and I availed ourselves of their kind offer, and mounting were soon galloping over the road in advance of our companions. The horse on which my friend Butcher was astride, unfortunately for that gentleman, had a very prominent backbone, which caused the rider to sit as lightly thereon as possible. After riding about a mile, friend B. commenced screwing and turning like an eel undergoing the skinning process. He reminded me very much of a lad I once saw with a nettle in the seat of his trouserloons. At length his seat became so unpleasant that he resolved to leave it at the risk of his neck. All endeavors to induce the Chilian to stop his horse were unavailing; therefore 162 164 he watched for a soft spot in the road and slid off stern foremost over the tail of the horse. Not wishing to leave my friend alone on the road, I dismounted and, giving the Chilian a real, walked back to assist B. in adjusting his apparel, a certain portion of which was sadly demoralized.

Friend Butcher and I being too much fatigued to go on board the brig, engaged a bunk in a fandango house, into which we both bundled and slept soundly until morning.

Saturday, May 19.—

During the voyage I have grown so fleshy that it is with extreme difficulty I can wear my clothes. This morning I carried my coat to a tailor for the purpose of having the sleeves enlarged, and I hope hereafter to be able to wear it with more comfort. Afterward I went to the office of the agent of the English mail steamers, in order to ascertain the postage on a letter to the United States, via Panama, and was somewhat surprised to learn that it was $1. I went on board the brig, wrote a letter to my wife, returned to the office of the agent and mailed it for Philadelphia, where it will probably arrive in about fifty days.

During the past two weeks the following passenger vessels bound for California have put into this port for water and provisions:

From New York, ships Albany and Panama, and brig Georgiana. From Boston, ships Trescott and Leonore, bark Oxford, and brig Mary Wilder. Brig Charlotte, Newburyport, Mass.; ship Hopewell, Warren, R.I.; bark Diamond, New Bedford, Mass., and brig John Petty, Norfolk, Va.

163 165

On board of these vessels are nearly one thousand Americans bound for the gold-diggings of California. The Chilians have fitted out three vessels at this port for San Francisco; two of which have sailed and the third is on the eve of departure. Several foreigners, resident at this place, have engaged passage on board the American vessels lying in this port bound for the new El Dorado.

Saturday, May 20.—

I went ashore at eight o'clock this morning and visited the market for the purpose of treating myself to grapes and apples, and while there a pretty señorita presented me with a bouquet of flowers. Soon after leaving the market I met a party of friends on their way to the Maiden's Paps, two very high hills overlooking the town, and at their request I accompanied them.

On our way we passed a procession of children bearing, on a rudely-constructed bier, a fancifully-ornamented coffin containing the remains of an infant which they were about to consign to mother-earth. The little mourners appeared very sorrowful, and to me the scene was deeply affecting and impressive. My thoughts wandered back to a little golden-haired darling I had left behind me, and as I turned away unbidden tears dimmed my eyes.

After a fatiguing walk of an hour, we reached the summit of the higher pap, from which we had a magnificent view of the town and Bay of Talcahuana, the city of Concepcion, the Biobio winding like a silver thread among the hills and ravines, the little village of Tome nestling at the foot of the mountains on the eastern shore of the bay, and the 164 166 waters of the Pacific rolling and breaking over the reefs and dashing against the rock-bound shore. From our elevated position, every street and nearly every building in Talcahuana could be distinctly seen.

165 167
CHAPTER X.

Description of Talcahuana—Theft of a water-cask—Punishment of the culprit—Our indebtedness to Captain Finch—The American consul—Departure from Talcahuana—Scene in the harbor—Gambling on board—Salt-water dumplings—Becalmed—Increase in the price of mining implements—General washday—Magnificent scene—Passengers on an exploring expedition—Set-to between the Captain and cook—First knockdown for the cook—Sugar served out pro rata.

THE town of Talcahuana contains about three hundred adobe houses and mud huts and, perhaps, three thousand inhabitants. The present town has been built within the last thirteen years, the old town having been thrown down in 1836 by the earthquake that destroyed Concepcion. The dwellings in Talcahuana, like those of Concepcion, are only one story high, and the walls are constructed of adobes or reeds plastered with mud. The adobe walls are of immense thickness, and the roofs are mostly thatched with a species of long sea-grass. In a majority of the houses and stores there are no plank or board floors. In the dwellings of the aristocracy the floors are of tile, but the poorer classes are always on the “ground floor.” The streets are irregularly laid out, and the buildings erected without any regard to beauty or uniformity. The streets are unpaved, consequently they are very dusty 166 168 during the dry season, and in rainy weather are extremely muddy and filthy.

This afternoon the town seems to be overrun with los Americanos. There are at least five hundred California passengers on shore, and to use a nautical phrase, they are putting the town “in stays.” Being foot-sore and weary, at five o'clock, P.M., I hired a boat and went on board the Osceola.

Monday, May 21.—

After breakfast I went ashore and purchased a hamper of apples, a Chilian cheese, two dozen loaves of bread and twenty pounds of flour—private stores for the balance of the voyage. After carrying my provisions on board the brig, I returned with my rifle for target practice. Having obtained permission from the Captain of the port to use fire-arms on shore, I repaired to a ravine in the suburbs of the town and practiced until noon. I fired some twenty shots, at the distance of eighty yards, and, strange to say, the target was not injured in the least. On my return to the brig, I learned from one of our sailors at the ship's watering-place that one of the water-casks belonging to the Osceola had been stolen by a native and found secreted in his hut. The circumstance was reported to the Captain of the port, and in about an hour afterward the culprit was arrested and compelled to march before a guard of soldiers to the watering-place, with a rogue's cap on his head and a ladder on his shoulders. On arriving at the place where the theft was committed, he was lashed to the ladder and while in that position received on his bare back twenty-five lashes 167 169 with the end of a lasso, well laid on by a drummer. He received the first dozen lashes without a murmur, but as each remaining lash fell upon the quivering flesh, he howled like a savage. On being released, he went among the crowd with his hat and took up a collection amounting to upwards of $3. He received the money with great delight, and I have no doubt he would have willingly submitted to another flogging for a like sum. At sundown I went on board the brig.

Tuesday, May 22.—

After breakfast I went on shore with my fowling-piece for the purpose of shooting ducks. I walked along the beach for several miles without seeing any game worth bagging. I then struck off to the right, crossed over a hill and entered a ravine where I found robins and other small birds in abundance. I soon killed a dozen robins and returned to town. From a fellow-passenger I learned that it was currently reported about town, that the Chilian government intended to seize the Osceola for an infringement of their marine laws in landing passengers at De Chatta before being boarded by the port officers. The Captain and passengers are very much excited about the matter. This morning a hearing was had before the Captain of the port, witnesses examined, etc., but no decision was reached, and the case will most likely be sent to a higher tribunal at Concepcion. Mr. Wainwright, our supercargo, was dispatched to headquarters this morning, for the purpose of setting matters in their true light before the officials. He returned at sundown without bringing 168 170 a decision, the judges having gotten matters so badly mixed that they are unable to decide definitely. They will dream over the matter to-night and wrestle with it again to-morrow.

The American consul at this port—Crosby, from Ohio—although appointed by a Democratic President, is a dyed-in-the-wool “ Know Nothing.” Had he performed his duty promptly in this matter, nothing serious would have grown out of it. Either through ignorance, fear or connivance with the Chilian government, he has rendered us no assistance.

I went on board the brig at four o'clock, P.M., and had broiled robins for supper.

Wednesday, May 23.—

I have resolved not to go ashore again while we lay in this port, unless compelled by the Chilian government to do so. Have been engaged during the forenoon mending my clothing. In the afternoon I repaired a gun-lock, cleaned and oiled my fire-arms and laid them aside ready for use on my arrival in California.

No decision in the Osceola case having been received by our Captain, Captain Finch, a merchant of this place, has volunteered his services to go up to Concepcion and urge a speedy settlement of the matter. He will return to-morrow morning, and should the decision be adverse, we have resolved to slip our cable and put to sea. The guns at the fort have been double-manned to-day, and should we attempt to take French leave we shall probably receive a few shots, but we are fully determined to make the attempt and abide the consequences.

169 171

Both of our mates have been discharged, and the Captain is again without officers. We have had four mates since we left Philadelphia, and God only knows how many more we shall have before we reach California. Two sailors came on board the Osceola to-day and volunteered to work their passage to San Francisco, and the offer has been accepted by Captain Fairfowl. Our provisions and water are now all on board, and if we had our clearance papers we should sail without mates.

Thursday, May 24.—

Last night the wind blew very fresh from the north, and every indication of a norther was visible. In the early part of the evening the sailors went ashore, and the brig was left entirely to the care of the passengers. Chain was paid out several times during the night for the purpose of preventing the brig from dragging her anchor.

Yesterday afternoon Captain Fairfowl went ashore, and during his peregrinations about town took too much “wine for his stomach's sake.” In his endeavors to get on board the brig, the boat swamped and he lost his hat and got thoroughly drenched with salt water. About eight o'clock, P.M., one of our passengers came across the old skipper pacing the beach in front of the custom-house, bareheaded. He was taken to a hotel and persuaded to remain there during the night. In the morning, dry clothes were sent on shore to him, and after making his toilet he came on board the brig looking rather crest-fallen. He says the wine he drank was drugged.

170 172

Captain Finch returned from Concepcion to-day with the news that we will be permitted to depart from Talcahuana in peace, provided we pay the expenses incurred in the case, amounting in the aggregate to fifty dollars. Our Captain will acquiesce in this decision, and we shall probably sail to-morrow.

The Captain shipped a first mate to-day, which means business. One of our passengers came on board this afternoon as tight as bricks and as noisy as a demon.

Friday, May 25.—

Last night the wind commenced blowing from the north, and toward morning rain began to fall, and it has been blowing and raining throughout the day, causing a heavy swell in the harbor and a tremendous surf on the beach. Our new mate and the sailors took “French liberty” last night—not one remaining on board—and the Captain was compelled to call on the passengers to keep anchor-watch.

Captain Finch went up to Concepcion again today and made a final settlement of our case. We are promised our clearance papers this evening or to-morrow morning, and shall sail as soon as the wind will permit.

All hands are anxious to be on the wing again. Had the weather permitted, the Americans belonging to the California passenger vessels would have marched in procession through Talcahuana to-day. During the afternoon our passengers have been coming on board laden with fruit, nuts and bread, preparatory to sailing. The old skipper has been 171 173 sampling drugged wine again. He came on board this evening as merry as a lark.

Saturday, May 26.—

The rain is still pouring down, and a stiff breeze has been blowing into the harbor all day, which has prevented us from getting under way and putting to sea. Our new mate has already become dissatisfied with the Captain, and is just going over the side of the brig with his bag and baggage. Another first mate was shipped this evening, but I fear we shall lose him unless we sail soon. The Captain has been “working up” the sailors to-day, by causing them to scrub paint-work in the rain. We are now ready for sea, and are waiting for a fair wind to take our departure.

Sunday, May 27.—

The rain poured down in torrents all last night, and early this morning we were completely enveloped by a dense fog. At sunrise the fog disappeared, and the day has been delightfully pleasant.

After breakfast the anchor was hove short, and at ten o'clock, A.M., we received our clearance papers from the Port Captain, got under way, and at meridian passed the Island of Quiriquina, at the entrance to the harbor, and were soon at sea, gliding merrily along over the swelling billows of the Pacific.

At the mouth of the harbor we spoke the California passenger ship Christoval Colon, of New York, bound in for a supply of provisions and water. The American brig Mary Wilder, bound for California, got under way about an hour before 172 174 us, but we passed her in the harbor, and at this time, six o'clock, P.M., she is fully 10 miles astern of us. As we passed the Christoval Colon, cheers were exchanged, and our band, consisting of a bugle, cornet and trombone, struck up the “Star-Spangled Banner,” which was cheered at intervals by the passengers of the Colon and Mary Wilder, until their voices were drowned by the dashing of the waves against the prow of the Osceola.

As soon as we were outside the harbor, studding-sails were set below and aloft, and the coast of Chili rapidly disappeared in the distance.

Monday, May 28.—

During last night and today the Osceola has been gliding along before a delightful breeze with all studding-sails set. This morning at daylight the Mary Wilder was about 10 miles astern of us, and at sundown she was nearly hull down. The weather has been very pleasant, and I hope it will continue so during the remainder of the passage.

This morning angry words passed between the after-cabin and steerage passengers in relation to their rights on shipboard. One of the former intimated that the steerage passengers had no right to promenade the quarter-deck. This brought the steerage boys out in full force, and a long controversy ensued, in which both parties took an active part. The matter was finally referred to the Captain, who decided that the steerage passengers had the same right to the use of the quarter-deck as their aristocratic neighbors of the cabin. The opinion among the steerage passengers to-day is, 173 175 that Captain Fairfowl's head is perfectly level. Distance sailed, 147 miles. Lat. 34° 55'. Therm. at M. 58°.

Tuesday, May 29.—

Throughout last night the wind continued fair, but this morning it hauled ahead, and the Captain wore the brig and stood to the westward. At eleven o'clock, A.M., the wind hauled around fair again, and since that time we have been running before a light breeze with the sea as smooth and placid as a mill-pond. At meridian we were off the Island of Juan Fernandez, once the abode of “poor old Robinson Crusoe.”

This morning the Captain reprimanded the steerage cook for using too much salt pork in a lobscouse he was preparing for breakfast. From this time forward, the steerage passengers will insist on having their allowance of meat weighed out daily. This afternoon the weekly allowance of tea, sugar, butter, cheese, molasses and vinegar was served out by the mate for the use of the steerage passengers. Distance sailed, 91 miles. Lat. 33° 31'. Therm. at M. 64°.

Wednesday, May 30.—

During last night and today the wind has been ahead, consequently we have made very little progress. We hope soon to fall in with the south-east “trades,” which will waft us to the equator in a short time. The weather is daily becoming milder, which has brought the passengers on deck attired in their summer costumes. Flannel shirts and other woolen clothing have been stowed snugly away for future use.

Yesterday the after-cabin gamblers, not having 174 176 the fear of Captain Fairfowl's mandate before their eyes, commenced operations again. The game during the day was “ keno,” not before played on board. The game being new, the green ones bet heavily with the never-failing result—the more they put down the less they took up! Distance sailed, 94 miles. Lat. 32° 01'. Therm. at M. 65°.

Thursday, May 31.—

Have been becalmed all day with the sails flapping lazily against the masts. We were not looking for a dead calm in this latitude; but during our pilgrimage in this world of woe, we must take things as they come and thank God they are no worse.

Steerage mess No. 1 furnished the cook with apples for dumplings which were served at dinner, but they were very unsavory in consequence of of having been boiled in salt water.

The blacklegs have been busily at work again to-day. Toward night they came to grief. One of the boys won $300, which bursted the bank! At sundown this evening, a passenger reported from the maintop-sail yard a sail on our lee-bow, distant about 20 miles. Distance sailed, 41 miles. Lat. 31° 13'. Therm. at M. 68°.

Friday, June 1.—

The calm still continues, and during last night and to-day the brig has not made 10 miles on her course. The weather has been plesant and the sea smooth. I have been perusing a file of Boston papers brought on board by our first mate. They contain several letters written by the passengers of the steamer Crescent City on her first trip to Chagres. The letters were 175 177 written at Cruces, Gorgona and Panama, and the writers all state that the climate is unhealthy, provisions scarce and sickness very prevalent—three cases of Asiatic cholera having occurred at Cruces. They regret having taken the Isthmus route, and recommend their friends who are about to start for California to go by the way of Cape Horn. My opinion is, that those who go by the way of Cape Horn will wish they had taken the Isthmus route! Distance sailed, 24 miles. Lat. 37° 07'. Therm. at M. 64°.

Saturday, June 2.—

We are still in the “horse latitudes,” and the wind has been blowing a “Paddy's hurricane” during the past twenty-four hours. This is the first month of winter in this latitude, and the weather is as mild and balmy as midsummer in the United States. As we approach our port of destination, fire-arms and mining implements increase rapidly in value. Twenty-five dollars has been offered and refused for revolvers that cost $10 in Philadelphia. A gold-washer that cost $6 was sold to-day for $15, and I refused an offer of $3 for a hand-pick that cost me only fifty cents. I am waiting for an advance in the market before I unload. At meridian the sun was obscured by clouds, therefore no observation was taken. I imagine, however, that we are in the neighborhood of 30° south latitude. Distance sailed, by log, 23 miles. Therm. at M. 64°.

Sunday, June 3.—

Head-wind and very little of that. Our expectations of reaching the equator in fifteen days from Talcahuana have already 176 178 vanished like a dream. One week has elapsed since we left that port and we have made scarcely one-third of the distance. When the Osceola sailed from Philadelphia, we expected to reach San Francisco in five months at the farthest. That time has nearly expired, and we are still nearly 6,000 miles from the land of promise. It is now a fixed fact that our voyage will not be completed in less time than six months, with the chances in favor of its being prolonged beyond that time. Verily, the way of the California-bound passenger is hard. Distance sailed, 30 miles. Lat. 29° 46'. Therm. at M. 65°.

Monday, June 4.—

Early last evening the wind died away, and during the remainder of the night and this forenoon we have been becalmed. At one o'clock this afternoon a fresh breeze sprang up from the south, which wafted us along at the rate of seven knots an hour until sundown, when we were again becalmed. The brig is rolling lazily; the sails are flapping against the masts and rigging, and the yards and booms are creaking and moaning fearfully. Distance sailed, 70 miles. Lat. 28° 41'. Therm. at M. 70°.

Tuesday, June 5.—

The wind has been very light during the past twenty-four hours, barely sufficient to keep steerage-way on the brig. This forenoon I tried my hand at washing soiled unmentionables, socks and towels, and succeeded beyond my most sanguine expectations. I was less fortunate in the drying process, there being no clothes-line on which to hang my “wash.”

A convoy of Cape pigeons has followed the brig 177 179 from Staten Land, but the hot weather of the past few days is rapidly decreasing their number and driving them back to the icy region of Cape Horn.

This afternoon the cabin passengers have amused themselves by playing monté and faro, and the steerage passengers have killed time by firing their rifles and pistols at porter and wine bottles suspended from the yards. Distance sailed, 55 miles. Lat.27° 51'. Therm. at M. 70°.

Wednesday, June 6.—

The weather to-day has been delightful, but the calm continues, and we are not happy. This morning I witnessed one of the grandest scenes of my life, and one that I shall probably never again behold. I beheld at the same moment the god of day lift his golden head above the waves of the ocean to resume his diurnal course, and the goddess of night, after having performed her wonted task, sink into the embrace of the great deep. It was a scene of great sublimity, and every soul on board gazed upon it with feelings of reverence mingled with admiration. During the forenoon the stern-boat was lowered and manned by the passengers for the purpose of towing the brig. A line was made fast to the bowsprit and attached to the stern of the boat, and the boatmen plied their oars merrily for a couple of hours, but the brig moved so slowly that they became disheartened, and, casting off the line, gave three hearty cheers, and started on a private pleasure excursion. In about two hours they returned and the boat was soon filled with another party, who started on an exploring expedition to the windward. In about an hour they returned 178 180 and informed us that during their voyage of discovery they had fallen in with the carcass of a sperm-whale, surrounded by myriads of boobies, gulls and Cape pigeons. The odors inhaled from his whaleship as he floated past us were not as pleasant and odoriferous as those wafted from “Ceylon's Isle.” The carcass was escorted by a body-guard of sharks, and a retinue of sea-birds screaming like devils incarnate. Distance sailed, 49 miles. Lat.27° 13'. Therm. at M. 69°.

Thursday, June 7.—

Last night, at eight o'clock, a light but fair breeze sprang up from the south, which we have carried all day with studding-sails set below and aloft.

Last evening the passengers mustered on the quarter-deck for the purpose of having a dance. The “El Dorado Band” played a variety of lively airs, which were accompanied by the “light fantastic toes” of a majority of the passengers. At nine o'clock, P.M., Captain Fairfowl spread a collation in the after-cabin, to which all hands were invited. Distance sailed, 82 miles. Lat. 26° 03'. Therm. at M. 64°.

Friday, June 8.—

During last night and to-day we have been favored with a fair wind, and the brig at this time, six o'clock, P.M., is making five knots an hour.

The weather has been cloudy all day, with strong indications of rain. Last night the steerage cook was ordered by the Captain to keep watch, which so exasperated him that he did not turn out this morning at the usual hour to commence his 179 181 culinary duties. The old skipper called him aft and asked him why he had not kindled a fire in the galley, as usual. He informed the Captain that he would not perform the duties of both cook and sailor—he shipped as cook, and would perform that duty only. He was ordered by the Captain to go forward and commence operations in the galley at once, but being rather dilatory in his movements, the old skipper seized a rope and commenced plying it briskly over his back and shoulders, at the same time ordering him to go forward, which command he obeyed very reluctantly. In a few moments he was again called aft by the Captain, who ordered the mate to seize him up in the main rigging for punishment. The cook informed the Captain that he was not on board a man-of-war, and would not submit to a flogging. The old skipper did not wait upon the order of going, but went for the knight of pots and kettles immediately, and for a few moments there was a lively time on board the Osceola, with the following result: Captain knocked down and the cook placed in irons. At eleven o'clock, A.M., the Captain relented—hunger will tame a crow—released the cook and ordered him to resume his duty, and in future to behave himself like a man. The cook nodded assent, and will not knock the old skipper down again until he makes another attempt to flog him! Distance sailed 94 miles. Lat. 24° 01'. Therm. at M. 68°.

Saturday, June 9.—

Throughout last night and to-day the brig has been skimming over the water 180 182 at the rate of eight knots an hour, with square yards and all studding-sails set.

Our prospects of reaching California by the 20th of next month are now very promising. If we are not becalmed on the “line,” we shall make an average run between Talcahuana and San Francisco. The weather to-day has been damp, with an occasional sprinkling of rain. We are now in the tropics, having crossed Capricorn this forenoon. This afternoon all the sugar on board the brig was taken aft and served out in equal portions to each individual on board. Each person received five and a half pounds—six weeks' allowance, according to the United States Naval ration. Since we left Talcahuanna the cabin passengers have been using the sugar rather extravagantly, which caused the Captain to divide it pro rata to-day. Distance sailed, 90 miles. Lat. 23° 16'. Therm. at M. 65°.

181 183
CHAPTER XI.

Sunday at sea—Light and baffling winds—Man-of-war birds shot—Fresh pork—Canchalagua pills—Passengers on their muscle—Crossing the equator—Old Neptune initiates one of the sailors—Bed-bugs and fleas—Our old skipper under the weather—Fourth of July at sea—Jolly time and no whisky—Ship ahoy!—Visit from the passengers of the ship Pacific —We treat them to salt pork and hard-tack—Later news from the land of gold—Captain Fairfowl has the dumps.

Sunday, June 10.—

During the last twenty-four hours we have been gliding along over a smooth sea, at the rate of nine knots an hour. A Scotch mist has been falling at intervals throughout the night and to-day.

The day has passed away very quietly—something unusual for Sunday. The sailors rigged themselves out in their Sunday toggery, and most of the passengers turned over a new leaf by putting on a “biled” shirt. At dinner, the steerage passengers were treated by the cabin steward to mince-pies for dessert, and I will do the old darkey the justice to say they did him great credit. No observation. Distance sailed, by log, 168 miles. Therm. at M. 68°.

Monday, June 11.—

A ten-knot breeze during the past twenty-four hours has rendered all hands 182 184 happy. The “trades” were light at first, but they have gradually increased to a ten-knot breeze, and should they continue ten days, we shall be north of the equator. The weather has been warm and hazy, reminding me of Indian Summer in Pennsylvania. This afternoon all the cheese on board the brig was served out in equal portions to the passengers, each receiving about two weeks' allowance. Distance sailed, 161 miles. Lat. 19° 59'. Therm. at M. 68°.

Tuesday, June 12.—

Last night we made an unusually good run, but to-day the wind has been light and baffling. Strong indications of another calm are visible. This forenoon the members of the “Perseverance Mining Company” commenced work on a sail for their batteaux, which will save them many a tug at the oar.

At one o'clock this afternoon, one of the passengers in the maintop reported a sail on our weather-bow, distant about 15 miles. The stranger is heading the same direction we are, and is most likely a California passenger vessel. Distance sailed, 150 miles. Lat. 19° 05'. Therm. at M. 70°.

Wednesday, June 13.—

All last night the wind was light and baffling, and before daylight the brig completely “boxed the compass.” At eight o'clock, A.M., a light breeze sprang up from the south-west, which we have carried the balance of the day, but have made very little progress. For some unexplained cause, the south-east “trades” have left us in the lurch, which is a great disappointment. We expected they would waft us to the equator. Two vessels heading north have been in sight all 183 185 day. Distance sailed, 40 miles. Lat. 18° 44'. Therm. at M. 70°.

Thursday, June 14.—

Last night the wind continued light and baffling, and early this morning it died away to a dead calm. At nine o'clock, A.M., a rain-squall suddenly sprang up from the south-west, and we have carried a five-knot breeze during the remainder of the day. The weather has been hazy and showery. One of the sailors who had the wheel during the morning watch, thinking that the time passed away rather slowly, removed the watch from the binnacle and undertook to move the hands ahead, but being more accustomed to handling a marline-spike than a timepiece, he broke both hands. The watch was a gold lever belonging to one of the passengers, who read jack-tar a lecture in very forcible language. Distance sailed, 70 miles. Lat. 17° 38'. Therm. at M. 69°.

Friday, June 15.—

Fair wind and plenty of it during last night and to-day. The brig has been flying over the water before a ten-knot breeze. The yards are square and every drawing sail set—a sight that a sailor's eye delights to dwell upon, and one that is not unpleasing to a landsman after having been five months at sea. The weather has been mild and pleasant. Distance sailed, 170 miles. Lat. 16° 03'. Therm. at M. 70°.

Saturday, June 16.—

The continued fair wind has sent the Osceola jumping through the water at the rate of ten knots an hour. If we are fortunate enough to escape a calm on the equator, and are blessed with this wind for thirty consecutive 184 186 days we shall be at anchor in the harbor of San Francisco.

The passengers are now organizing companies in order to be ready for action immediately upon their arrival in California. There are several professional gentlemen on board who, when they left Philadelphia, informed their friends that they were going to California to practice their professions; but they, too, have recently joined mining companies, believing that they can put more money in their purses by handling the spade and pick, than by perusing musty law books or serving out potions of jalap, calomel and quinine. Several “man-of-war” birds were shot this afternoon by one of the cabin passengers. Distance sailed, 191 miles. Lat. 14° 52'. Therm. at M. 74°.

Sunday, June 17.—

We are still blessed with a fair wind and delightful weather, and are gliding rapidly along toward the land of promise.

This morning the Captain expressed his intention of crossing the equator between 112° and 115° west longitude. Should we cross the line as far west as 115° we shall not be to the northward of it before this day week. This has been one of the most quiet Sabbaths passed on board the Osceola since she left Philadelphia. During the first four months of the voyage a growl on Sunday between the Captain and passengers or crew was looked for regularly, and I regret to state that we were seldom disappointed. Captain Fairfowl is one of those old sea-dogs who cannot survive without an occasional growl. 185 187 Distance sailed, 172 miles. Lat. 13° 36'. Therm. at M. 74°.

Monday, June 18.—

We have carried an eight-knot breeze throughtout last night and to-day, and the weather has been delightfully pleasant. All hands, including the cook, are in good humor. Now that we are on the last quarter of our voyage, the passengers are busily engaged overhauling their tents and mining utensils. One of our mining companies has been employed during the past two days making a tent of material purchased at Rio de Janeiro. Not being accustomed to the use of the palm and needle, they have made but very little progress. Distance sailed, 164 miles. Lat. 12° 01'. Therm. at M. 76°.

Tuesday, June 19.—

A favorable wind during the past twenty-four hours has wafted us along at the rate of nine knots an hour. The weather is gradually becoming warmer—this being the hottest day experienced since we doubled Cape Horn. We shall in all probability soon have occasion to use the awnings and wind-sails, as the weather must necessarily be hot at this season of the year north of the equator.

This afternoon the Captain opened his heart and ordered a hog killed, a portion of which will be made into a sea-pie to-morrow for the steerage passengers. Distance sailed, 161 miles. Lat. 10° 21'. Therm. at M. 77°.

Wednesday, June 20.—

The wind continues fair, but is gradually growing lighter as we approach the equator. This has been general washday with the 186 188 passengers. Lines stretched across the deck are loaded with wet clothes, as also are the stays, rigging and spanker-boom. Salt-water soap is just now in great demand among the washermen —some exchanging shaving soap of a superior quality for the same bulk or weight of salt-water soap. One of the passengers, not being overstocked with discretion, offered to sell his traveling-bag for two bars of salt-water soap, but he did not find a purchaser.

I have been engaged to-day making a knapsack, which will no doubt be of great service to me in the gold diggings. Distance sailed, 160 miles. Lat. 8° 52'. Therm. at M. 79°.

Thursday, June 21.—

During last night and to-day the “trades” have wafted us along at the rate of eight knots an hour. We have carried the trade-winds for the last fifteen days, and hope to hold them until we pass the equator. The sky has been cloudless and the weather hot, but not oppressive.

Last night several of the passengers “took up their beds and walked” on deck, where they slept until morning, undisturbed by bugs or fleas. This morning I treated myself to a dose of Captain Fairfowl's famous Canchalagua pills, but what effect they will have remains to be seen. The Captain believes them to be a sovereign balm for all the ills that flesh is heir to. Distance sailed, 172 miles. Lat. 7° 28'. Therm. at M. 80°.

Friday, June 22.—

The wind throughout last night and to-day has been very light, and I fear that we shall be becalmed before we reach the equator. The weather has been hot and sultry, 187 189 with strong indications of rain. This forenoon I did my week's washing, and this afternoon have been engaged mending my old clothes. At the commencement of the voyage I handled the needle very awkwardly, but practice and perseverance have enabled me to use it quite satisfactorily. Distance sailed, 152 miles. Lat. 5° 52'. Therm. at M. 81°.

Saturday, June 23.—

For the last twenty-four hours the wind has been fair but light, yet, with the aid of all drawing sails, we have made a very fair run. The weather has been cloudy all day. This evening a shower of rain fell, which has cooled the atmosphere considerably, and rendered the early part of the night unusually pleasant. Distance sailed, 140 miles. Lat. 4° 38'. Therm. at M. 86°. Hot as blazes!

Sunday, June 24.—

Throughout last night and to-day we have been skimming over the water before a seven-knot breeze, with studding-sails set below and aloft. The atmosphere has been rather cooler, which has rendered the day very pleasant. We have passed several schools of flying-fish, but none have been caught.

Now that the weather is growing warmer, the passengers are becoming as rabid as mad dogs. At breakfast, this morning, three altercations occurred—two in the after-cabin and one in the steerage. The steerage row commenced first, and passed off without any blows being struck. The first quarrel in the cabin resulted similarly; but in the second melee a rough-and-tumble fight ensued, in which 188 190 a little bad blood was spilled. Distance sailed, 135 miles. Lat. 3° 02'. Therm. at M. 81°.

Monday, June 25.—

The “trades” still continue, and all last night and to-day we have been ploughing through the water at the rate of seven knots an hour. The sky has been cloudless and the weather pleasant. We are now near the equator, and hope to cross it before daylight to-morrow morning. We are half-way between Talcahuana and San Francisco, with the prospect of reaching the latter place within twenty-five days.

I have been on board the Osceola so long that every plank in her deck looks like an old acquaintance; yet, as familiar as they appear, I am extremely anxious to bid them farewell forever. Distance sailed, 150 miles. Lat. 0° 59'. Therm. at M. 82°.

Tuesday, June 26.—

We carried a seven-knot breeze throughout last night and to-day, which has placed us 160 miles nearer our port of destination. The weather during the day has been delightful. We crossed the equator at one o'clock this morning, in longitude 115° 40' west.

When we crossed the dominions of Neptune, the old salt visited us, and initiated one of the crew. The passengers refused to submit to the operation. The soap used by Neptune on this occasion was highly perfumed with a compound of “villainous smells,” and his razor was as dull as a lecture on woman's rights. Distance sailed, 152 miles. Lat. 1° 06' north. Therm. at M. 82°.

Wednesday, June 27.—

All last night and to-day 189 191 the wind has been light and baffling, but the weather continues pleasant. We expected to meet with frequent showers on the equator, but thus far have been happily disappointed. During the day the passengers have been lounging about the deck in the shade of the sails endeavoring to keep cool. A few days since one of the steerage passengers resolved to dispense with the use of tobacco henceforth and forever, and this morning he disposed of his stock of pipes and tobacco at a raffle. Distance sailed, 139 miles. Lat. 3° 12'. Therm. at M. 83°.

Thursday, June 28.—

Last night the wind hauled around to the southward and westward, and since that time we have been skimming along at the rate of seven knots an hour. The heat was very oppressive, but to-day we have been fanned by a delightful breeze, which has in a slight degree counteracted the effects of the heat. Since we left Talcahuana every berth in the brig has been overrun with bed-bugs and fleas, and the past two weeks our sufferings have been intolerable. To-day several of the passengers have been figuring out the date of our arrival in San Francisco. According to their ciphering we shall arrive there on the fifteenth of next month—if figures don't lie. Distance sailed, 162 miles. Lat. 5° 26'. Therm. at M. 82°.

Friday, June 29.—

The wind has been blowing steadily from the south-west all day, and we have encountered several squalls accompanied by rain, thunder and lightning. The wind has blown so fresh this afternoon that the Captain has taken in the studding-sails, furled the mainroyal and reefed 190 192 the foretop-gallant-sail. This is the first squally weather we have encountered the past two weeks, and it has somewhat surprised us, as we did not count on meeting rough weather during the balance of the passage, but we know not what the morrow may bring forth, particularly in these latitudes. This afternoon in working the brig one of the sailors through mistake let go the wrong halyard, which caused the old skipper to go for him with a rope's end, and afterward to put him in irons. We are now in the latitude of Panama. Distance sailed, 179 miles. Lat. 8° 18'. Therm. at M. 79°.

Saturday, June 30.—

Last night the wind hauled around to the northward, and to-day it has been light and baffling. Squalls, accompanied by rain, have been frequent during the day.

I fear the next settled wind will prevent us from heading our course. If so, we must be content, for it is an ill wind that blows no one good. To-day considerable rain-water has been caught by the passengers, which will prove quite a god-send, for to-morrow is washday. Captain Fairfowl has been quite unwell all day, and has remained in his berth most of the time. There is a rumor floating about the brig that he has been sampling drugged wine again. We are off Guatemala. The sun being obscured, no observation was taken. Distance sailed, by log, 130 miles. Therm. at M. 78°.

Sunday, July 1.—

Our good luck is failing us. During last night and to-day the wind has been unfavorable, which has headed us off our course five or six points. The weather has been clear, and 191 193 the wind bracing and invigorating. The morning and forenoon passed off quietly, but this afternoon the Captain cursed the cabin passengers for insinuating that he had sampled the brandy in the doctor's medicine-chest. Liquor is getting scarce and the Captain is convalescing rapidly. In consequence of the indisposition of the old skipper no observation was taken, but I presume that we are in the neighborhood of 13° north latitude. Distance sailed, as per log, 137 miles. Therm. at M. 81°.

Monday, July 2.—

Last night the wind was light and baffling, and to-day we have been becalmed. The weather has been hot and oppressive. The next wind that crosses our track will probably be the north-east “trades,” the prevailing wind in these latitudes, and the sooner we meet with them the better; for, of all things on earth or ocean, a calm in the tropics is the most annoying.

The old skipper is on his pins again, and to-day resumed his accustomed duty. One of his first acts was to release the sailor confined in irons on the 29th ult. Distance sailed, 97 miles. Lat. 13° 18'. Therm. at M. 82°.

Tuesday, July 3.—

During last night and to-day the ocean has been as smooth as a mirror, and the weather hot and sultry.

Captain Fairfowl opened his heart this afternoon and presented to the steerage messes three turkeys, which will be served up for dinner to-morrow—the glorious Fourth! Distance sailed, 16 miles. No observation. Therm. at M. 83°.

Wednesday, July 4.—

Fourth of July and a dead 192 194 calm in the tropics, with the thermometer at 83° in the shade! This day being the seventy-third anniversary of American independence, all hands concluded to celebrate the event in a becoming manner. Accordingly, at daylight, the ensign, union-jack and pennant were spread to the breeze, a salute of small arms fired, and at ten o'clock, A.M., a meeting was organized, Dr. George Guier, Jr., presiding, supported by six vice-presidents, myself being one of the number. A secretary was appointed, and a committee selected to prepare the regular toasts for the occasion. After the reading of the Declaration of Independence, by Col. James A. Banks, another salute was fired, and the meeting adjourned until three o'clock, P.M.

Having partaken of the best dinner the Osceola could spread, we met at the appointed hour to conclude the festivities of the day. Thirteen regular toasts appropriate to the occasion were read by the president, which were loudly cheered by the assemblage. The intervals between the toasts were enlivened by appropriate music by the El Dorado band and several patriotic songs by the “O Susannah Serenaders.” The regular sentiments were succeeded by some fifty volunteer toasts, many of which were rich, rare and racy, and called down thunders of applause.

The regular and volunteer toasts having been read, Colonel Banks, in compliance with a request from the president, delivered an eloquent address, creditable alike to his head and heart. The colonel was followed by two other passengers, one of whom 193 195 recited an Ode to the American Flag, and the other attempted to make a speech but, poor fellow, he got stuck! and in order to relieve him from his awkward predicament, a friend moved an adjournment sine die, which was unanimously carried.

At sundown, when the colors were hauled down, another salute was fired and three hearty cheers given, which aroused the fishes and caused old Neptune to send back the echo; and thus ended the 4th of July, 1849, at sea! Everything passed off quietly and soberly. There was no liquor on board! Distance sailed, 20 miles. Lat. 13° 41'. Therm. at M. 83°.

Thursday, July 5.—

The calm continued last night, but this forenoon a light breeze sprang up from the north-west, and although dead ahead, was hailed with joy by all hands on board, as a breeze from any quarter is preferable to a calm. Last night I was so terribly annoyed by that lively and ubiquitous little “animile,” the flea, that I was compelled to vacate my bunk and go on deck. The rays of a tropical sun have been concentrated all day on my mattress and blankets, and I have also given the latter a salt-water douche. I hope that the sun and salt-water combined have given the fleas their eternal quietus.

This forenoon, a ship, supposed to be a homeward-bound whaler, was reported on our lee-bow, distant about 15 miles. This is the first vessel reported during four weeks. For reasons best known to the Captain no observation was taken to-day. Distance sailed, per log, 9 miles. Therm. at M. 81°.

194 196

Friday, July 6.—

During last night and to-day there has not been sufficient wind to fill the sails, consequently they have been flapping listlessly against the masts and rigging. The sky has been unclouded and the weather oppressive.

Early this morning we discovered on our lee-quarter a full-rigged ship, distant about 15 miles. About two o'clock, P.M., a small sail, in the direction of the stranger, was seen approaching us, and when distant about 4 miles, our stern-boat was lowered and manned by passengers, who pulled merrily away toward the boat, which could now be distinctly made out without the aid of a glass. In about forty minutes our boat returned, accompanied by the metallic life-boat Crusoe, belonging to and manned by seven of the passengers of the California passenger ship Pacific, which sailed from New York on the 23d of January last. We left the Pacific in Rio de Janeiro, whence she sailed on the 3d of April, touching at Callao for water and provisions, sailing thence on the 8th of June.

At the latter place intelligence from California down to the 1st of May had been received, which confirmed all previous reports in regard to the richness of the gold mines in that country.

Our guests partook of a collation of salt pork and hard-tack, lubricated with a little brandy from the doctor's medicine-chest, and at five o'clock, P.M., bade us adieu, and entering their boat, were soon gliding over the water toward their vessel, which was now distant about 10 miles. When our friends shoved off three hearty cheers 195 197 were given by us, which were returned with a will. At sundown our visitors were within a mile of their ship, which they probably reached before dark. They are a jolly, whole-souled set of fellows, and deserve success. Distance sailed, 12 miles. Lat. 14° 06'. Therm. at M. 82°.

Saturday, July 7.—

Some time during last night a breeze sprang up from the north, which we have carried throughout the day. We have been looking for the north-east “trades” during the past eight days, but have not yet found them. “Hope deferred maketh the heart sick.” Either a head-wind or a dead-calm has been the order of the day the past week, and how long this will continue remains to be seen.

The news received from California by the visitors from the Pacific has renewed the gold fever, and all hands on board are more or less affected by it. One of the sailors went aloft this morning and scanned the horizon with a glass, but not a solitary sail could be seen. Distance sailed, 47 miles. Lat. 13° 55'. Therm. at M. 80°.

Sunday, July 8.—

Last night the wind commenced hauling to the westward, and during the day we have been heading the course laid down by the Captain, and running before a strong south-west wind at the rate of six knots an hour. A strong head-sea has been running during the day, which has somewhat impeded our progress.

We are now about 1,300 miles distant from the Golden Gate, with a fair wind that would waft us there in eight days, if the brig were allowed to 196 198 head the proper course; but our Captain is afflicted with the dumps, and is as obstinate as a mule. He will steer any course in preference to the correct one, which will probably prolong our voyage another month. He informed one of the passengers to-day that we would not reach San Francisco before the 10th of August. A cold, drizzling rain has been falling all day. Distance sailed, 100 miles. Lat. 15° 20'. Therm. at M. 78°.

197 199
CHAPTER XII.

Our last porker slaughtered—Cold weather in the tropics—Off Lower California—The Captain predicts a fair wind—Will wine vinegar inebriate?—Provisions and water scarce—Head-winds—First mate ordered below—Encounter a squall—The cook and cabin steward have a free fight—Fog and Scotch mist—Drift-wood—Brig ahoy!—Visit from the mate of the brig Spencer —Land ho!—Farallone Islands—Come to anchor outside the Golden Gate.

Monday, July 9.—

The wind continued fair last night, and throughout to-day we have been steering north-west by west with all studding-sails set. The wind is gradually hauling around to the eastward, and I should not be surprised if we were to fall in with the north-east “trades” within forty-eight hours. The weather has been clear and pleasant, and the passengers have spent most of the day on deck. We are to-day off the coast of Mexico. Distance sailed, 110 miles. Lat. 17° 04'. Therm. at M. 81°.

Tuesday, July 10.—

Last night the wind hauled around to the south-east, and during the day it has changed to the north-east, from which quarter it is still blowing quite fresh. We have been heading north-west by west all day, and running at the rate of eight knots an hour.

The weather up to three o'clock, P.M., has been warm and pleasant, but from that time to the present 198 200 writing, eight o'clock, P.M., the mercury in the thermometer has fallen from 81° to 72°, and the atmosphere is damp and chilly.

The last two nights a heavy dew has fallen, which has thoroughly wet the deck and rigging. Our last porker was slaughtered to-day; therefore, we may expect a good dinner to-morrow. Our last pig is slaughtered For to-morrow's sea-stew, And we'll go for that porker Like Yankees, true blue!

Distance sailed, 139 miles. Lat. 19° 03'. Therm. at M. 72°.

Wednesday, July 11.—

Throughout last night and to-day we have been wafted along by the north-east “trades” at the rate of eight knots an hour; but the brig is still heading north-west by west, although we are two degrees to the westward of our port of destination! The weather is damp and chilly, reminding one more of fall in the United States than midsummer in the tropics. The thermometer this evening is down to 70°, and overcoats are in demand among the passengers. The past two days the members of the “Perseverance Mining Company” have been employed painting their boats, in order to be in readiness for a start up the Sacramento immediately upon their arrival in San Francisco. Distance sailed, 172 miles. Lat. 20° 50'. Therm. at M. 78°.

Thursday, July 12.—

We are still being driven to the north-west by the “trades” at the rate of 199 201 seven knots an hour. The Captain regrets not having steered a northerly course at the commencement of this week, when he had the opportunity. Should the present wind continue until we reach the latitude of San Francisco, by steering our present course we shall be some 1,200 miles to the westward of that port. Although directly under the sun, the atmosphere is quite chilly. We are this evening off Cape St. Lucas, the southern-most point of Lower California. Yesterday we exchanged colors with a Chilian ship bound to the southward. Distance sailed, 148 miles. Lat. 22° 20'. Therm. at M. 70°.

Friday, July 13.—

A head-wind to-day has prevented us from steering within six points of our course. There is a variation of the compass of about one point in our favor, but this is nearly, if not quite, overbalanced by the lee-way occasioned by a strong head-sea that has been running the past five days. The weather is so cold that the passengers have dressed themselves cap-a-pie in their Cape Horn clothers, in order to keep comfortable when on deck.

The month of October in Philadelphia is more mild and pleasant than have been the past five days in the tropics. This forenoon we crossed the Tropic of Cancer, and if we are permitted to steer our course during the next six days, we shall at the expiration of that time be at anchor in the Bay of San Francisco. Distance sailed, 134 miles. Lat. 23° 56'. Therm. at M. 68°.

Saturday, July 14.—

The wind is still north-east, 200 202 but is gradually getting lighter, and I hope will soon die away or haul around to the westward. The Captain predicts a fair wind withing the next forty-eight hours, but little faith can be placed in his opinion, in consequence of his having so often proven himself a false prophet.

The head-winds which have prevailed during the past week have given all hands the blues, and they move silently about the deck with elongated visages, reminding one very much of a disconsolate widow or a young married man with a strong-minded mother-in-law. Distance sailed, 118 miles. Lat. 25° 25'. Therm. at M. 68°.

Sunday, July 15.—

Last night the wind veered a little to the northward, and to-day we have been heading nearly a due west course. The wind has been very light, and all on board are inclined to the belief that it will haul around to the westward very soon or die away entirely. The sun has been obscured by clouds nearly all day, and the weather has been chilly and unpleasant.

This Sabbath has passed off very quietly, neither a fight nor a growl having occurred—an unusual circumstance. One of the passengers of the Irish persuasion, however, not having the fear of Father Mathew before his eyes, managed this evening to get gloriously drunk on wine vinegar, but he is very docile. This morning at sunrise the mercury in the thermometer was down to 66°. Distance sailed, 126 miles. Lat. 26° 33'. Therm. at M. 68°.

Monday, July 16.—

We are still wrestling with an adverse wind, and the weather is damp and 201 203 chilly. We are now in longitude 130° west, and the Captain says he will put the brig on another tack to-morrow and run direct for the Golden Gate.

A box of clothing belonging to one of the passengers, stowed in the hold since we left Rio, was opened to-day and its contents found to be very much injured by mould and mildew. Distance sailed, 88 miles. Lat. 27° 12'. Therm. at M. 69°.

Tuesday, July 17.—

Last night the wind hauled around to the northward and eastward, and since that time we have been heading north-west, but in consequence of being so close on the wind we have made very little progress. The wind is dead ahead, and so good-bye, San Francisco, until it changes. The sun has been obscured by clouds nearly all day, and the weather continues chilly and disagreeable. Provisions are getting scarce—some articles being entirely exhausted. The hold was broken out to-day for pork, but not a single barrel could be found. The sugar and cheese are also among the things that were but are not, and the water is nearly all gone. The truth of the matter is, we are in one of those predicaments sometimes narrated but not often experienced. Distance sailed, 87 miles. Lat. 27° 43'. Therm. at M. 68°.

Wednesday, July 18.—

Last night the wind hauled back to the northward, and this forenoon it veered still further around and resumed its old position in the north-east. This afternoon we have been heading north-west, but owing to a head-sea have made very little progress. If the wind continues in the north-east during the next eight days, we shall be 202 204 compelled to run as far westward as 140° before we tack the brig and run for our port of destination.

The weather this forenoon was quite winterish. At meridian the clouds that have shrouded the sky the past week broke away, and the sun shone brightly for about two hours. The latter part of the day has been squally, with occasional showers. The crew has been employed to-day painting the brig. Distance sailed, 84 miles. Lat. 28° 53'. Therm. at M. 68°.

Thursday, July 19.—

During last night and today the wind has been blowing steadily from the north-east, and we have been sailing as closehauled as possible. The weather has been cloudy, damp and chilly, and all hands have the dumps. How long we shall be knocked about by adverse winds, is one of those things that no “feller” can find out. At meridian San Francisco bore north-east by north, distant 800 miles. The crew has been reeving new signal-halyards, repairing the side-ladders, and doing other odd jobs, in order to get the brig “ship-shape” before reaching port. Distance sailed, 112 miles. Lat. 30° 15'. Therm. at M. 68°.

Friday, July 20.—

The north-east trades still continue, which prevents us from heading higher than north-west by north. We did not expect to carry the trades farther north than latitude 28°, but in this, as well as in many other things, we have been sadly disappointed. I have now come to the conclusion that we are booked for a passage of two hundred days!

This morning Captain Fairfowl ordered his first 203 205 officer below. This is the fifth officer the old skipper has put off duty since we sailed from Philadelphia. Should he ever be fortunate enough to obtain command of another vessel, I would advise him to ship at least a gross of mates. He would find use for all of them before the expiration of a voyage of ninety days. Distance sailed, 100 miles. Lat. 31° 38'. Therm. at M. 68°.

Saturday, July 21.—

Last night the wind hauled a point to the eastward, and to-day we have been steering N.N.W. We shall probably be in the latitude of San Francisco on Wednesday next. The Captain will then tack the brig and stand to the eastward, wind permitting.

Last night the moon dispersed the clouds, and to-day the atmosphere has been clear and the weather cool. Three large sea-birds have followed the brig for the past three weeks, and during that time at least fifty shots have been fired at them by the passengers without effect. They appear to bear charmed lives. At all events, they are shot and bullet-proof. Distance sailed, 108 miles. Lat. 33° 11'. Therm. at M. 67°.

Sunday, July 22.—

All last night and up to six o'clock, P.M., to-day, the wind has blown steadily from the north-east, and the brig has been heading a north-by-west course. At seven o'clock this evening the wind hauled around to the south-east, which has enabled us to lay our course for the space of fifteen minutes, when it hauled back to its old quarter in the north-east, where it still remains.

The sun has been obscured by clouds nearly all 204 206 day, which has rendered the atmosphere chilly. We are now in the same latitude as San Luis Obispo, Upper California, and at meridian tomorrow we shall probably be off Monterey.

Early this morning the Captain reported a vessel on our weather-bow, distant about 15 miles, and in two hours afterward it could not be seen. It was probably a California-bound steamer. Distance sailed, 122 miles. Lat. 35° 01'. Therm. at M. 67°.

Monday, July 23.—

Last night the wind was light and baffling, and to-day the face of the great deep has been unruffled by a breeze. We have lost the north-east trades, and I hope the next wind we fall in with will be a fair one, for things are getting rather monotonous. The weather has been warmer than on any previous day the past two weeks. I availed myself of the sunshine, and washed and dried sundry shirts and towels. Several turtles have been seen floating on the surface of the water at no great distance from the brig. As we shall not run much farther to the northward, I will, during the remainder of the voyage, record longitude, as well as the latitude. Distance sailed, 72 miles. Lat. 36° 11' long. 139° 02' west. Therm. at M. 73°.

Tuesday, July 24.—

Throughout last night and to-day the wind has been light and baffling, and a part of the time we have been becalmed. The entire day has been a succession of variable breezes and calms. This morning at eight o'clock the brig was put about three times in about the time it requires to record the fact, and on the last tack she headed her course 205 207 twenty minutes. We find that we have only twenty-five days' water on board, which causes things to look rather squally. We are now on an allowance of two quarts of water per day, which allows us only one pint each for drinking, and if we do not soon get a fair wind this quantity will be reduced one-half. Distance sailed, 18 miles. Lat. 36° 29' long. 139° 08'. Therm. at M. 68°.

Wednesday, July 25.—

The calm of yesterday continued throughout last night. Early this morning the wind commenced hauling to the southward, and at this time, eight o'clock, A.M., it is blowing from the south-west. Although the wind has been light, by the aid of studding-sails we have managed to make about three knots an hour. Captain Fairfowl is of the opinion that the present wind will waft us into port. God grant that it may, for our water and provisions are getting very scarce, and much suffering will occur should the voyage be prolonged another month. Distance sailed, 42 miles. Lat. 37° 12' long. 139° 10'. Therm. at M. 70°.

Thursday, July 26.—

The wind increased gradually last night, and up to four o'clock this afternoon we have been heading our course at the rate of six knots an hour with studding-sails set below and aloft. This afternoon at five o'clock we encountered a squall accompanied by rain, during which the wind hauled around to the north, and is blowing an eight-knot breeze from that quarter.

This forenoon the cabin cook and steward had a rough-and-tumble fight about their relative positions, in which both parties were severely pummeled. 206 208 The cook gave the steward a whack on his cabasa with the potato-masher, and the latter returned the compliment with his fists so effectually that in a few moments the cook's figure-head was sadly disfigured—it is doubtful whether his mother would recognize him. Distance sailed, 70 miles. Lat. 37° 52'; long. 137° 57'. Therm. at M. 74°.

Friday, July 27.—

All last night we headed our course and ran at the rate of six knots an hour. At ten o'clock this forenoon the wind hauled around to the north-east which headed us off, and the Captain put the brig about and ran to the north-west until three o'clock, P.M., when the wind hauled a little more to the northward, and the brig was again put about, but on this tack she could not lay within two points of her course, in consequence of the variations of the compass and the lee-way, which were both against her. The weather during the day has been damp and chilly, the mercury in the thermometer having fallen ten degrees within the past twenty-four hours.

Yesterday all hands were very much elated with the prospect of reaching San Francisco in the course of four of five days, but the sudden change in wind and weather to-day has saddened their hearts, and they look as crest-fallen as disappointed politicians. We are on an allowance of three pints of water each. Distance sailed, 142 miles. Lat. 37° 30' long. 135° 30'. Therm. at M. 64°.

Saturday, July 28.—

At midnight last night the brig was put about, and she ran north-west by west until ten o'clock this forenoon, when she was put on 207 209 the other tack, and since that time has been heading east by north, within one point of our course. The wind is hauling slowly to the westward, and I am inclined to the belief that we will be heading our course before to-morrow morning. A fair wind would carry us into our port of destination in three days, but the wind in these latitudes is so fickle that very little reliance can be placed upon it. This afternoon a general search was made in the hold for water, and, to our great joy, we find that there are thirteen casks on board, being thirty days' allowance at the rate of two quarts for each person. Distance sailed, 87 miles. The sun was obscured at meridian, consequently no observation was taken. Therm. at M. 65°.

Sunday, July 29.—

Early last night the wind hauled to the north-west, and since that time we have been running our course at the rate of six knots an hour. A heavy head-sea has been running all day, which has somewhat retarded our progress.

The cold weather and rough sea causes reminiscences of Cape Horn to flit through the mind. Owing to the favorable wind the Captain has added a pint of water to our daily allowance. Cloudy weather; no observation. Distance sailed, per log, 86 miles. Therm. at M. 62°.

Monday, July 30.—

During last night and to-day we have been heading our course and jogging slowly along at the rate of four knots an hour.

Were it not for the strong head-sea constantly butting against the bow of the brig, our speed 208 210 would be increased at least two knots an hour. We are also close-hauled on the wind, which somewhat retards our progress.

Our hearts were gladdened this forenoon by the appearance of the sun for the first time in two days. Toward the close of the afternoon the weather became thick and foggy, and at this time, eight o'clock, P.M., a Scotch mist is falling which will probably turn into rain before morning. At meridian to-day, San Francisco bore due east, distant 383 miles. Distance sailed, 87 miles. Lat. 37° 49'; long. 130° 01'. Therm. at M. 62°.

Tuesday, July 31.—

Throughout last night and to-day the brig has been heading her course under a seven-knot breeze. The wind has gradually increased since noon, and at this time, seven o'clock, P.M., it is blowing a gale. If the atmosphere should be clear to-morrow we hope to sight land.

The weather during the day has been foggy and chilly—the thermometer at five o'clock this morning being 58°. The past two days, large quantities of drift-wood, sea-weed and kelp have floated past us—strong indications that land is not far distant. A great change in the color of the water has also been apparent within the past thirty hours; and this evening wild geese and a species of duck that does not venture far from land, flew past us. Distance sailed, 160 miles. Lat. 38° 30'; long. 127° 38'. Therm. at M. 59°.

Wednesday, August 1.—

The wind blew so fresh all night that the brig was hove to, and remained in that position until daylight this morning, when 209 211 she was put before the wind and made good headway until ten o'clock, A.M., when the wind died entirely away. This afternoon the wind has been light and baffling, and a heavy ground-swell has kept the brig rolling about like a saw-log in a millpond.

During the day we have been enveloped by a dense fog which has prevented us from seeing half a mile in any direction. The anchors were got over the bow ready to be let go should occasion require. Land-birds have been hovering about the brig all day. Distance sailed, 30 miles. Lat. 38° 28'; long. 125° 08'. Therm. at M. 58°.

Thursday, Aug. 2.—

Light and baffling winds, a dense fog and damp and chilly weather all day. At sundown the fog partially lifted, which enabled us to get a glimpse of the “land of promise,” directly ahead and distant about 10 miles. Later in the evening, the fog disappeared, and we could define the bold outlines of the coast for many miles. The Captain says we are some 15 miles to the northward of the harbor of San Francisco, therefore we shall lay off and on during the night and run into port to-morrow, wind permitting. Soon after making the land we discovered a vessel close in shore evidently bearing down toward us. When distant about 3 miles, she lowered a boat, and in three-quarters of an hour thereafter, we were boarded by her first mate, accompanied by a cabin passenger. The stranger proved to be the English brig Spencer, from Sydney, New South Wales, bound for San Francisco, with thirteen passengers 210 212 and a cargo consisting principally of provisions, spirits and clothing. The mate of the Spencer boarded us for the purpose of ascertaining his whereabouts, which Captain Fairfowl defined to his entire satisfaction. The Spencer had been becalmed and befogged since Monday last on this “blarsted” coast. Our Captain presented the mate, at parting, with a copy of the New York Herald containing a map of the harbor of San Francisco, which I hope will prove more reliable than did one of the “Gold Diggings” published in the same journal. No observation to-day. Distance sailed, per log, 60 miles. Therm. at M.60°.

Friday, Aug. 3.—

During last night the wind was very light, and to-day we have been in the midst of light breezes and calms.

The Captain took an observation at noon and found that we were 22 miles to the northward of the port of San Francisco. This afternoon we have been running slowly down the coast. Several of the passengers are so anxious to get on shore that they have been ahead in one of the boats nearly all the afternoon towing the brig.

When we tacked the brig this forenoon and stood down the coast, the brig Spencer followed us, but before two o'clock, P.M., we lost sight of her. The land was visible until eleven o'clock, A.M., when the fog hid it from our view. The fog the past week has been so dense that the sun has been obscured most of the time. During the day whales, porpoises, puffing-pigs, sea-lions, seals and sharks have been seen in all directions. 211 213 Distance sailed, 50 miles. Lat. 38° 10'. Therm. at M. 60°.

Saturday, Aug. 4.—

The wind died away last night about ten o'clock, and up to four o'clock, P.M., we have not made ten miles. This forenoon the water has been as smooth as a mirror, but the fog is so dense that we cannot see twice the length of the brig.

At half-past four o'clock, P.M., the fog lifted a little, and we discovered a sail directly ahead, about 4 miles distant. Soon after a boat left the stranger and was shortly alongside of us. The vessel proved to be the schooner John L. Day, from New York, which port she left on the 4th of March last. She is bound for San Francisco, and has twenty-two passengers on board.

At five o'clock, P.M., we made the Farallone Islands, bearing south by east, distant some 3 miles. The Farallones are a mass of barren rocks, projecting several hundred feet above the surface of the water, and are inhabited only by sea-fowl, sealions and seals. They bear west by south from San Francisco, and are about 25 miles distant from that port. At half-past five o'clock a four-knot breeze sprang up, and at this writing, eight o'clock, P.M., we are within l2 miles of the Golden Gate. We shall anchor to-night off the mouth of the harbor and run in to-morrow morning, wind permitting. Distance sailed, 31 miles. Lat. 37° 58'; long. 123° 42'. Therm. at M. 64°.

212 214
CHAPTER XIII.

Pass through the Golden Gate and come to anchor in the harbor of San Francisco—Visit the town—The Bank-Street dry-goods dealer—Recapitulation of the voyage—Scene at the post-office—Happy Valley—Leave the Osceola —Intelligence from the mines—San Francisco as it was—Crime and its punishment—The Parker House and its gambling-tables—Climate of San Francisco—Start for the mines—Mosquitoes and tulés —Arrival at Stockton—Stockton in '49— En route to the mines.

Sunday, Aug. 5—Last night we came to anchor just outside the Golden Gate, in eighteen fathoms of water, where we remained until six o'clock this morning, when we stood into the harbor, and at eleven o'clock, A.M., rounded Clark's Point and dropped anchor off the town of San Francisco.

The cable had scarcely ceased rattling over the bitts, before half a dozen shore-boats, manned by piratical-looking beach-combers, were alongside of us, which were soon filled with passengers at $2 per head. Not being overstocked with the one thing needful, I concluded to await a passage ashore in one of the brig's boats, which the Captain informed me would be ready in a few hours.

The first Philadelphian that came on board was a man named Brown, formerly a dry-goods merchant in Bank Street, in that city. Mr. Brown, like a sensible man, availed himself of the Isthmus 213 215

ENTRANCE TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

214 215 217 route in preference to a passage around Cape Horn, and although he started at the same time we did, reached California some four months ahead of us. He had already made several thousand dollars by transporting goods from San Francisco to Sacramento City, and trafficking in provisions and mining implements.

Immediately after dinner the boat was got ready, and I went ashore for letters, but on reaching the post-office I found it closed, which caused me to turn away with a sad heart. I soon returned on board the brig and commenced arranging my baggage preparatory to transferring it on shore.

The following is a recapitulation of the voyage of the Osceola between Philadelphia and San Francisco:

Sailed from Philadelphia, January 16, 1849, and arrived at Rio de Janeiro on the 6th of March following; number of days at sea, 49; distance sailed, 6,088 miles. Remained in Rio, 12 days. Sailed from Rio de Janeiro March 18, and arrived at Talcahuana, Chili, May 14; number of days at sea, 57; distance sailed, 6,156 miles. Remained in Talcahuana, 13 days. Sailed from Talcahuana May 27, and arrived at San Francisco, August 5, 1849; number of days at sea, 70; distance sailed, 7,064 miles.

Total number of days at sea, 176

“ “ “ in different ports, 25

“ “ “ from Philadelphia to San Francisco, 201

Total number of miles sailed between Philadelphia and San Francisco, 19,308

216 218

At daylight on the morning of the 6th, I went ashore in the market-boat and again wended my way over the sand-hills to the post-office, where I found some two hundred individuals already formed in file at the delivery-window anxiously awaiting the opening of the office. I filed in at the rear of the line formed at the window; at seven o'clock, A.M., the shutters were unbarred and thrown open, and the delivery of mail-matter commenced. After remaining in the line upwards of two hours, I reached the window and received three letters and a New York Herald, containing my letter written for that paper at Rio. I clutched the letters with a nervous hand and with fear and trembling broke the seals and glanced hurriedly over their contents. They contained intelligence from the States up to the month of June, and, when I learned that the loved ones in their far-away home were all well, my heart leaped with joy. On my way down to the Plaza I met several of my fellow-passengers on their way to the post-office. When I informed them that it would require half a day to reach the delivery-window, a disconsolate Dutchman, from one of the interior counties of Pennsylvania, ejaculated, “Mine Got in himmel; vat a tyfel of a country dis ish!” I consoled him with the idea that the farther he went, the worse he would probably fare.

In the afternoon I visited the encampment of the gold-diggers in Happy Valley, for the purpose of selecting a site on which to pitch my tent. On the following day I moved my luggage ashore, and 217 219

BEACH OF YERBA BUENA COVE, 1849.

POST-OFFICE, 1849.

 218 219 221 located myself among the sojourners there. My provisions and mining implements were soon landed from the Osceola, and I made the necessary arrangements for spending a few weeks in San Francisco as comfortably as possible. I learned from the experienced in such matters, that the water in the tributaries of the Sacramento and San Joaquin was too high to admit of working in the wet diggings to advantage, and that the dry diggings could not be successfully worked until late in the fall, after the rainy season had set in. I therefore concluded to remain in San Francisco until the middle of September. The limited state of my finances— six dollars and seventy-five cents, all told —would not admit of my remaining idle during the interim, therefore I immediately set out in quest of employment. Passing down Pacific Street toward Clark's Point, I saw several of my fellow-passengers engaged shoveling and wheeling dirt, at $5 per day. I applied for a situation, but was informed there was no vacancy. I soon after obtained a situation in the lumber-yard of Palmer, Cook & Co., at $8 a day, which I held until I had raised the requisite funds to defray my expenses to the mines. Some old fossil has said or written, perhaps both, that “poverty is no disgrace;” but to a person with a diaphragm and an appetite, it is very unpleasant and depressing, with the following bill of fare staring him in the face: “Beefsteak, $1; coffee, 75 cents; bread, with butter, 50 cents!”

San Francisco—formerly Yerba Buena—is a queer place. It contains at this time a dozen adobe 220 222 structures and perhaps two hundred roughly-constructed frame buildings, mostly shipped around Cape Horn. The beach, Happy Valley, for the space of two miles, is covered with canvas and rubber tents, and the adjacent sand-hills are dotted to their summits with these frail but convenient tenements of the prospective miner. The population, numbering perhaps five thousand, is as heterogeneous as their habitations. It seems as though every nation on the face of the earth had sent a representative to this place, and that they had all arrived with their credentials. Such a medley of languages and jargon of tongues the world has seldom seen. It is a modern Babel. Yet, paradoxical as it may seem, it is nevertheless true, that life and property are as secure here as in the cities of New York, Boston or Philadelphia, and fire-arms are seldom carried as weapons of defense by either citizens or strangers. The commission of a theft is a rare occurrence, although millions of dollars' worth of merchandise is “lying around loose” and unguarded. The raid by the citizens on the “Hounds,” a gang of cut-throats and thieves, and the incarceration of five of the ringleaders on board the U.S. sloop-of-war Warren, some four weeks previous to our arrival, has completely revolutionized affairs in San Francisco and placed a wholesome check on roguery. It is universally conceded in this country, that hanging is not one of the “Lost Arts,” and, so long as Judge Lynch shall continue to occupy the bench, justice will be meted out with an impartial hand.

221 223

THE “HOUNDS” ON A RAMPAGE.

 222 223 225

There are lying at anchor in the harbor of San Francisco at this time, four U.S. vessels of war and upwards of two hundred sail of merchantmen, most of the latter being without crews, the gold fever having carried them off to the mines. Rents are enormously high. The Parker House, the principal hotel in town, rents for one hundred and seventy-five thousand dollars per annum! The tenants are principally gamblers, who, in some instances, pay as high as $1,000 per month for the privilege of running a monté or faro table. The roulette, keno, rattle-and-snap and other small-fry gamblers pay less amounts, but I am inclined to the belief that they put as much money in their purses as do their more aristocratic neighbors. The gaming-tables are always crowded with those who have no better sense than to stake their last ounce of dust on the “hazard of a die.” If the fickle goddess smiles on them, well and good; if she frowns, and they lose the last farthing in their possession, they immediately hie away to the mines, and after having filled their buckskin pouches with the “dust,” return and buck against faro and monté until their purses are again depleted, and then once more to the mines to retrieve their lost fortunes. In ninety-nine cases out of every hundred, the more an individual puts down on a gaming-table the less he takes up. In the Parker House and El Dorado, full brass bands are engaged at a cost of several hundred dollars a night to draw victims into their toils— “Step into my parlor, said the spider to the fly.”

224 226

Pyramids of golden nuggets of various sizes, aggregating in value thousands of dollars, are displayed on the gambling-tables to excite the avarice and cupidity of the unwary.

Mrs. Grundy has not yet arrived here, consequently social and society lines have not been strictly drawn. One man is equally as good as another, and in some instances a little better. Every one seems fully impressed with the belief that it is either “root hog or die”—the majority root! All seem to be working harmoniously on the same plane. A graduate of Yale considers it no disgrace to sell peanuts on the Plaza, a disciple of Coke and Blackstone to drive a mule-team, nor a New York poet to sell the New York Tribune at 50 cents a copy. Mechanical labor commands from $12 to $16 per day, and common laborers receive from $6 to $8 per day. Provisions and building materials are exorbitantly high, but clothing and dry-goods are selling as low as in the States. An article in demand will sell at any price your conscience will allow you to ask for it. I sold a force-pump that cost $40 in Philadelphia to a Californian for $175, and he considered that he got it remarkably cheap, as he afterwards informed me. I assured him that I was perfectly satisfied, and that my motto in business was, quick sales and light profits.

The climate of San Francisco, though reputed healthy, is not agreeable to the unacclimated. The mornings and evenings during the spring and summer months are damp and chilly, and at meridian the thermometer is usually somewhere in the 225 227

PARKER HOUSE AND DENNISON's EXCHANGE, 1849.

INTERIOR OF EL DORADO SALOON, 1850.

 226 227 229 neighborhood of 80°. A heavy dew falls at night, which renders woolen clothing requisite during the summer months. Were it not for the heavy rains, the winter months would be the most delightful part of the year. Between the rains the atmosphere is as mild and balmy as June in the Atlantic States. I find that summer clothing is of no manner of use here. In the mines the dew, I am informed, is very light during the spring, summer and fall, and the climate approximates nearer to our own.

On the 4th of September I began to make the necessary arrangements for my departure to the mines. I exchanged my large sea-chest for a trunk, which I packed full of clothing and placed in a store-house, with the understanding that I should pay three dollars per month storage or forfeit the trunk and its contents at the expiration of six months. The only articles of clothing I selected to take to the mines were two red flannel shirts, a pair of pilot-cloth pants, a pair of long mining boots and a Mexican sombrero. I disposed of all my provisions, with the exception of a half-barrel of pork and a barrel of pilot-bread, which I concluded would serve for my subsistence until I could dig gold enough to replenish my stores. It was several days before I could determine whether to visit the northern or southern mines. I had heard nothing of the southern mines previous to my arrival in California, they having been discovered several months after the first gold was found by Marshall at Sutter's Mill. The southern mines are reported more healthy than the northern and equally rich, 228 230 therefore I concluded to give them the first trial. Accordingly, on the morning of the 6th of September, I engaged passage on board the brigantine Rambler, Captain Dunham, bound for Stockton, on the San Joaquin River, distant from San Francisco 160 miles. The Rambler belonged to Palmer, Cook & Co., owners of the lumber-yard in which I had been employed most of the time since my arrival in San Francisco, consequently they charged me only $16 passage to Stockton.

During the forenoon I struck my tent and removed it, together with my provisions, on board the Rambler. At one o'clock, P.M., accompanied by two of the Osceola's passengers, I went on board the brig, where I found some thirty adventurers en route to the southern mines. We hove up anchor at two o'clock, and at sundown the wind died entirely away, and we came to anchor in San Pablo Bay, where we remained during the night. We got under way at an early hour on the following morning, and during the forenoon passed Benicia, Boston and New York of the Pacific. The latter place was surveyed and laid out in blocks, with streets crossing each other at right-angles, by its original proprietor, Colonel J. Stevenson, of the New York Regiment of California Volunteers. It contains a solitary frame building, and I fear it will never rival its Atlantic namesake, either in population or wealth.

At two o'clock, P.M., we left Suisun Bay and entered the San Joaquin River. The wind and tide being favorable, we made a good run during 229 231

SUTTER's SAW-MILL. COLOMA, 1849.

230 231 233 the afternoon, and when the tide turned came to anchor for the night.

When the sun went down behind the tulés that night the mosquitoes rose up. They swooped down upon us like the locusts of Egypt, with a determination to devour every green thing. There were several on board the brig, and the mosquitoes seemed to know it. They didn't wait upon the order of coming, but they came in platoons, regiments and brigades, and their music made night hideous. We stood up manfully against fearful odds, and fought with a desperation worthy of a better cause. We proposed an armistice, then a treaty of peace with indemnity—anything to stop the flow of blood; but our adversaries presented their bills so often that we found it impossible to liquidate their claims, and as a last resort beat a hasty retreat into the hold of the brig and fastened down the hatches.

Either side of the San Joaquin, from its entrance into Suisun Bay to within a few miles of Stockton, is bordered by a continuous tulé marsh, and during the summer and fall all the mosquitoes in California hold high carnival here. Early on the morning of the 8th we proceeded up the river with a fair wind and favorable tide. Before night we came to the conclusion that our brig was either too large for the river, or the river too small for the brig. Our Captain knew very little about seamanship, and less about the channel, therefore the brig ran aground several times during the day. Whenever she grounded on a sand-bar or a 232 234 mudflat, a rope was made fast to the taffrail and all hands went ashore among the tulés and mosquitoes and pulled her off. Captain Dunham being of an irritable disposition, and never having experienced religion in the natural way, nor taken any stock in early piety, made things on board the Rambler extremely lively for all hands. The exercise of pulling the brig off of mud-flats became monotonous before night, and the passengers rebelled. The Captain's remarks being more forcible than polite or convincing, we refused to obey his commands, and he tied up the brig for the night within 15 miles of Stockton. In nearly every bend of the river, which is as crooked as a Virginia fence, we started a flock of ducks. I shot several during the day. At five o'clock next morning we got under way and proceeded up the river to the mouth of the slough on which Stockton is situated, where we again grounded, but got off without much difficulty, and at four o'clock, P.M., reached Stockton.

On my departure from San Francisco, I had received from Mr. George W. Wright, the junior partner of the firm of Palmer, Cook & Co., a letter of introduction to a merchant in Stockton, of the name of Leland, whose acquaintance I made immediately upon landing, and was invited by him to remove my baggage on board his store-ship, tied up at the bank of the slough, and consider it my home as long as I remained in that place. I gladly availed myself of his kind invitation, which was also extended to my two companions, the brothers Kelly, 233 235

CITY OF STOCKTON, FALL OF 1849.

234 235 237 and before sundown we were comfortably domiciled on board the store-ship, surrounded by our baggage.

The first object that met my view on landing at Stockton was that sure precursor of civilization, a rudely-constructed gallows, looming up in the distance, on which two persons had been executed for burglary a short time previous to my arrival. Their graves were between the posts of the gibbet, unmarked by head or foot-board.

Stockton is located on a slough of the San Joaquin, about 3 miles above its entrance into that river, and contains some fifty roughly-constructed frame buildings, and probably one hundred canvas tents. There are perhaps one thousand persons who claim a home in Stockton, and double that number who belong to what is termed the floating population, hombres, who are here to-day and gone to-morrow. The town is located on an “eight-league square” tract of land granted to Captain Charles M. Weber, by the Mexican government, several years prior to the discovery of gold in this country. Captain Weber had command of a company of volunteers in Commodore Stockton's battalion, during the Mexican and California war, and rendered essential service throughout that campaign. Soon after the discovery of gold at Sutter's Mill, Captain Weber laid out his model city, and gave to it the name of his old friend and companion-in-arms, Stockton. Stockton in point of population and commercial advantages is the third city in California, being rivaled only by San Francisco and Sacramento City. This thriving little city numbers among its pioneers and 236 238 prominent business men several Philadelphians, among whom are Messrs. Gillingham and Henry Hugg.

During my brief sojourn in Stockton, miners were constantly arriving from the different diggings, some in quest of provisions, and others en route to San Francisco for the purpose of returning to the States by the first conveyance. Those who had gone to the mines with the determination to give them a thorough trial before crying peccavi were generally successful; but those who had expected to realize fortunes immediately upon reaching the placers were invariably disappointed, and becoming disheartened returned to San Francisco with their hands in their breeches' pockets, and their hearts very nearly in the same place. I made it a rule to inquire of every miner I met about his success in the mines, and the best location for a green-hand to visit. Some answered my interrogatories in a satisfactory manner, and others, not being overstocked with the milk of human kindness, intimated that I had better learn from experience. I soon came to the latter conclusion, and commenced making the necessary preparations for my departure. I packed my provisions in raw-hide sacks, engaged transportation mules, and on the morning of the 13th, accompanied by the brothers Kelly, set out for the placers on the river Calaveras, distant about 40 miles.

237 239
CHAPTER XIV.

First day and night on the road—Digger Indians—The surprise—Badly frightened—“Song of the Gold-Digger”—The wrong road—Arrival at the “diggins”—Commence operations—The result—Rich “diggins” reported—Start on a prospecting tour—Return disgusted—Discovery of a rich bar—Commence operations—Sickness of the Author—Return to Stockton—Leave Stockton for San Francisco—Changes wrought in two months—Canvass for a newspaper route—The Pacific News —Its early history.

OUR first day's journey was over a level and sparsely-timbered country, thickly covered with wild oats and mustard. Owing to the excessive heat of the weather and the proverbial stubbornness of our mules, we encamped the first night 12 miles from Stockton. After the mules had been relieved of their loads and pack-saddles and securely tethered, we kindled a fire at the roots of a large oak, and, having eaten a hastily-prepared meal of broiled pork, pilot-bread and coffee, spread our blankets on the ground and turned in for the night. When I awoke next morning, the muleteers had the animals packed ready for a start, and my companions were seated around the camp-fire discussing a pot of coffee which I helped them to dispatch, then shouldering our fire-arms we resumed our journey. The heat and dust during the day were almost insupportable. The dust in our trail was as hot as the ashes 238 240 of a volcano, and curled and crisped our boots until it was with great difficulty we could travel. We bivouacked the second night under the wide-spreading branches of an oak on the north bank of the Calaveras, 20 miles from our previous night's encampment. We killed several quail and squirrels during the day, which, with the addition of hard-tack and coffee, served for our supper.

In the evening we visited the lodge of a party of Digger Indians en route to Stockton, who were encamped a few hundred yards below us. They treated us with great civility, and at parting presented us with a quarter of dried venison, which was very acceptable. I presented the chief—who, by-the-by, was one of the ugliest-looking red-skins I ever beheld—with a plug of tobacco. The Digger eats very little animal food. Like his brother, the gorilla, he is a vegetarian and subsists principally on wild berries and acorns, occasionally luxuriating on snails and grasshoppers. He cuts his hair with a sharp stone, and boils water in a basket. In the winter he burrows in the earth like a prairie dog, and emerges from his den in the spring as fat as a grizzly. His costume is decidedly primitive and airy, consisting of a breech-clout and a pair of moccasins. Since civilization has overtaken him, he occasionally dons a paper collar and a pair of Mexican spurs.

On our return to camp we placed the muleteers on guard, and wrapping ourselves in our blankets, were soon fast in the embrace of Morpheus. Just before daylight I was startled by the sharp report 239 241

ON THE ROAD TO THE MINES.

240 241 243 of a rifle and a tremendous clattering of tin pans, pots and kettles. I grasped my rifle, which was lying alongside of me, and sprang behind the nearest tree, where I found my two companions dodging about like lizards around a cabbage-tree, expecting every moment to be skewered by the arrow of an Indian. I am not easily frightened, but I will confess that I felt a little nervous. Our fears were soon relieved by one of the muleteers, who informed us that he had discharged his gun at a coyote. The “ varmint,” not having the fear of powder and lead before his eyes, had commenced depredations on one of our provision sacks. He escaped unscathed, but, in his sudden departure, had upset our coffeepot and other tinware, which impressed us with the belief that the Diggers had made an attack on our camp.

After rolling up our blankets, we set about preparing our morning repast, which being completed at sunrise, we assisted the muleteers to pack the animals and again resumed our journey. Charley Kelly and myself started ahead of the train, and being in a musical mood, I struck up the following song, to the air of “O Susannah,” and my companion joined in the chorus:

SONG OF THE GOLD-DIGGER.

I.

I came from Quakerdelphia With my wash-bowl on my knee I'm going to California, The gold-dust for to see.

242 244

It rained all night the day I left, The weather it was dry, The sun so hot I froze to death, O Anna, don't you cry! Chorus —O California! That's the land for me, I'm going to Calaveras, With my wash-bowl on my knee. II. The Osceola I did board, And traveled on the sea; And every time I thought of home, I wished it wasn't me! The brig she reared like any horse That had of oats a wealth— But she found she couldn't throw me, So I thought I'd throw myself. Chorus —O Ann Eliza! Don't you cry for me, I'm going to Calaveras, With my wash-bowl on my knee. III. I thought of all the pleasant times We'd had together, dear; I thought I ought to cry a bit, But couldn't find a tear; The pilot-bread was in my mouth, The gold-dust in my eye, And though from you I'm far away, Dear Anna, don't you cry. Chorus —O Ann Eliza! Don't you cry for me, I'm going to Calaveras, With my wash-bowl on my knee.

243 245

IV. I soon shall be in mining camp, And then I'll look around, And when I see the gold-dust there, I'll pick it off the ground. I'll scrape the mountains clean, old girl, I'll drain the rivers dry, A pocketful of rocks bring home, So, Anna, don't you cry. Chorus —O California! That's the land for me, I'm going to Calaveras, With my wash-bowl on my knee.

During the morning we killed a hare and several quail. We also saw in the trail the fresh footprint of a grizzly, and congratulated ourselves that the foot was not in it, for we had no desire to meet one of those animals, even under the most favorable circumstances. We stopped on the bank of a small stream, 12 miles from our last encampment, and awaited the arrival of our companions and baggage. After dinner, I again set out ahead of the train, and at four o'clock, P.M., arrived at Dos Agua —“double springs”—where I learned from a Sonorian that I had traveled some 4 miles beyond the trail that led to the Calaveras diggings. After partaking of a cup of coffee, for which I paid fifty cents, I retraced my steps to the Calaveras trail, and though weary and footsore, pushed on as rapidly as possible after my companions, whom I overtook at sundown, as they were entering the Calaveras cañon. I was completely exhausted, and spreading my blanket on the bank of the river, retired supperless for the 244 246 night. I awoke at an early hour next morning, and after partaking of a hearty breakfast, discharged the muleteers and commenced making preparations for pitching my tent.

I suggested to my companions the propriety of messing together, to which they readily assented. We accordingly pitched our tents under a large oak near the bank of the river, and spent the remainder of the day unpacking and arranging our stores and cooking utensils. Although our provisions were joint stock, we agreed to dig for the oro separately—each man for himself.

On the morning of the 17th, I arose at five o'clock, and dressing myself a la California, shouldered my pick, crow-bar and spade, and started, tin pan in hand, for the bar of the river, where I commenced my initiatory labors at gold-digging. I was engaged all the forenoon removing the large rocks from my claim. In the afternoon I commenced washing the earth, and at sundown I weighed my “dust” and found I had panned out a quarter of an ounce—$4 worth. On the following day I washed out $10 worth of the precious metal. Learning from a Mexican that rich diggings had been discovered by a party of Digger Indians, on a bar several miles lower down the river, I reported the circumstance to my companions, and a party was forthwith formed to visit the Indian diggings on the following day.

On the morning of the 20th of September, accompanied by a party of miners of various nationalities and colors, I started on a prospecting 245 247

MINERS AT WORK IN 1849.

246 247 249 tour to the reported rich Indian diggings. On our arrival at the encampment of the Indians, we were somewhat surprised at meeting only half a dozen squaws and papooses. We inquired for the bucks, but could obtain no satisfactory answer to our interrogatories. Being somewhat fatigued by a march of three hours over hills and through gulches and cañons, exposed to the broiling rays of the sun, we placed our fire-arms against a tree, and sat down to rest our weary limbs and chat with the squaws. We had been seated only a few moments, when the Indians commenced making their appearance from all points of the compass. Every rock in the cañon seemed to send forth a red-skin. We secured our fire-arms and again sat down. The Indians were rather shy at first, but after a little persuasion seated themselves around us, and those who could speak Spanish entered into conversation with us. After a few preliminary remarks, we informed them of the object of our visit, and asked if there was plenty of oro in the cañon. They shrugged their shoulders and informed us that the cañon was much a malo; but we placed very little reliance on what they said, and in order fully to satisfy ourselves in regard to the richness of the locality, commenced prospecting. After traveling over the cañon and bed of the river several hours, looking for gold, we came to the conclusion that the Indians had told the truth, and, bidding them good-bye, commenced retracing our steps.

Midway between the Indian encampment and our own, we discovered a bar richer than the one 248 250 we were working, and concluded to remove to it on the following day. Accordingly, at an early hour next morning, we bundled up our tents and provisions, packed them on mules, and started for the new diggings, which we reached at noon. The afternoon was spent in pitching our tents and arranging the provisions. At daylight next morning I selected what I considered a good location, and commenced operations. I labored hard two days in removing the boulders from my claim, but was amply rewarded for my labor. On the third day I reached a crevice in a rock, some four feet below the surface of the ground, and in two hours succeeded in extracting therefrom forty-five dollars' worth of gold in nuggets of the value of from one to five dollars. I did not report my good-luck to my companions, but toiled on, early and late, day after day, until I had extracted nearly four hundred dollars' worth of the precious metal from the claim. I then abandoned it, and reported progress to my fellow-diggers, all of whom had been less fortunate than myself. Some had not averaged one dollar per day; others had been more successful, yet none had met with the success they anticipated. Those who had expected to realize a fortune in a few days or weeks were sadly disappointed. I left San Francisco with the intention of remaining in the mines during the fall and winter, but I had not dug three weeks before I found my health and strength failing. On the 10th of October, I had an attack of rheumatism which doubled me up like a rainbow and put a veto on any further attempts at 249 251

MINING SCENE, 1849.

250 251 253 gold-digging. My companions advised me to return to Stockton or San Francisco and recruit my health, but I declined doing so until I had become so crippled by disease that I could scarcely hobble out of my tent.

On the morning of the 12th, I sold my provisions and mining implements by auction at ruinous rates, and packing my wardrobe, consisting of an extra flannel shirt, a pair of linsey-woolsey pants, a six-shooter and a bowie-knife, I engaged passage in a trader's cart, and, bidding my companions adieu, started for Stockton, where I arrived the following evening.

On my arrival in Stockton, I was advised by my friend Leland to place myself under the charge of a physician for a few weeks, or until I had fully recovered my health. Accordingly, I visited the City Hospital, a large canvas tent, resembling very much a circus pavilion, and inquired the price of board with medical attendance. The attending physician informed me that the charge was two ounces—$32—per day; but if I preferred being visited at my own quarters, it would be somewhat less. After having learned that I was not overstocked with the “root of all evil,” he very condescendingly informed me that he would charge me only $16 a visit, and the cost of the medicine prescribed. I left him with the promise that I would employ him if I did not get better in a day or two. On my way back to my lodgings, I recollected having purchased, before leaving Philadelphia, a bottle of opodeldoc, and I at once resolved 252 254 upon testing its virtues before purchasing medicine at California prices. I accordingly applied it freely to my swollen limbs, and on the following day I felt very much relieved. I continued the application, and when the bottle was emptied of its contents, I was a well man. I consider the twenty-five cents paid for that bottle of opodeldoc the most judicious investment I ever made. Having recovered my health, I cast about for some employment whereby I might turn an honest penny. During my sojourn in Stockton, I mixed freely with the returning and disgusted miners, from whom I learned that they were selling their mining implements at ruinously low prices. An idea struck me one day, which I immediately acted upon, for fear that another might strike in the same place and cause an explosion. The heaven-born idea that had penetrated my cranium was this: start in the mercantile line, purchase the tents and implements of the returning miners at low figures, and sell to the greenhorns en route to the mines at California prices! I purchased a large tent in which to store my goods and commenced operations. Fortune smiled on me, and I was happy. But every rose has its thorn, and “The best laid plans of mice and men gang aft aglee.”

The first rain of the season dampened my ardor and disheartened me. My bowels yearned for the flesh-pots of San Francisco, so, early in November, I bade farewell to Stockton, engaged passage on 253

SAN FRANCISCO, WINTER OF 1849-'50.

254 255 257 board a schooner, and in due course of time reached the city of the Golden Gate.

San Francisco, during my absence of two months, had become so changed that I scarcely recognized it. Substantial frame buildings had superseded frail canvas tenements, and piers had been extended many hundred yards into the bay, at which vessels from the four quarters of the globe were discharging their cargoes. I visited the gold-diggers' encampment, Happy Valley, but that too was so changed, that I could hardly recognize a familiar spot or countenance. A three-story warehouse was being erected on the spot where I had pitched my tent two months previously. The saw and hammer of the carpenter could be heard in every square, and the voice of the crier and auctioneer at the corner of nearly every street. The Plaza was covered with booths, in which could be had the merchandise of all nations.

As hotel accommodations were limited as well as expensive, I purchased for $100 a ship's galley, size four by five feet, which I located in Happy Valley and commenced housekeeping. My furniture consisted of an empty flour-barrel and a nailkeg. The former served for a table and the latter as a chair, minus a back. My cooking utensils were as inexpensive as my furniture. A second-hand frying-pan, a dilapidated coffee-pot, and a rheumatic jack-knife comprised the catalogue. My bed consisted of two blankets and a soft block of wood for a pillow. Unfortunately, I was, by actual measurement, eight inches longer than my shebang; 256 258 therefore, when “I lay me down to sleep,” I was compelled to lie bias, and I couldn't turn over without going out-of-doors. “Man wants but little here below,”

but he wants that little long enough to turn over in. With no disrespect to Happy Valley, there is one thing which, as a truthful historian, I am compelled, more in sorrow than in anger, to relate. The flea, that festive and lively little “animile,” was quite prevalent. He annoyed me sorely, yea, prodigiously! The sojourners in Happy Valley and surrounding sand-hills never required cupping or leeching, as both operations were performed by the fleas, nolens volens.

Being the owner of a house, I commenced looking about for some employment whereby I could raise the needful to keep the pot boiling. My first business venture was in the pickle line, and the following extract from my journal will illustrate the modus operandi:

“Pickles are scarce and sell at fabulous prices. The beach of Happy Valley for miles is lined with discarded pickle-jars and bottles, and I have conceived the happy idea of utilizing them. I have gathered up, cleansed and stored around my shebang, several hundred bottles ready for use. This afternoon, I boarded a vessel just arrived from Boston, and persuaded the Captain to sell me a barrel of salted cucumbers and half a barrel of cider-vinegar, to be delivered to-morrow morning.”

After supper I wrapped myself in my blankets 257 259 and laid down to pleasant dreams; but toward morning, I had a vision, and in that vision I saw—pickles. Captain Perkins delivered the cucumbers and vinegar, according to agreement, received his pay, and I immediately commenced bottling them. Before night, I had the largest stock of bottled pickles in San Francisco, and at the close of the week I struck a balance-sheet, and found that I had cleared $300 by the speculation. My next mercantile venture was a “corner” in tobacco pipes, by which I realized $150 in twenty-four hours.

Having abiding faith in the old aphorism, “change makes change,” I concluded to abandon mercantile pursuits and try my luck at the newspaper business. I resolved to commence at the lower round of the ladder, and gradually work my way upward. Suiting the action to the thought, I at once applied to the proprietors of the Pacific News, a tri-weekly, printed on a foolscap sheet, then in its infancy, for permission to canvass for a carrier's route on their journal. After a long interview, during which the project was discussed pro and con, I obtained the sole and exclusive right to canvass for subscribers, and serve the News in San Francisco and suburbs, which latter included Happy Valley and adjacent sand-hills.

Messrs. Falkner & Leland, proprietors of the Pacific News, were both Eastern men. Falkner formerly published a paper in Norwich, Conn., and Leland was one of the proprietors of the Clinton Hotel, New York. The first number of the News was issued on the 25th of August, with Falkner 258 260 as editor, and Leland, business manager. A few weeks subsequently, Charles Eames, of Washington, D.C., appointed by President Polk consul to the Hawaiian Islands, arrived in San Francisco, en route, but was prevailed upon by Falkner & Leland to forego his mission, locate in San Francisco, and assume editorial charge of their journal, at a salary of $500 per month. As the election and inauguration of Zachary Taylor, as President of the United States, had rendered the recall of Mr. Eames a foregone conclusion, that gentleman considered discretion the better part of valor, and accepted the editorship of the News.

Simultaneously with the engagement of Mr. Eames as editor-in-chief, a tall, lank, hirsute Yankee, of the name of Ames alias”Boston” alias”Big Ames,” was engaged as local reporter. A few weeks subsequently Mr. Ferdinand C. Ewer, a recent graduate of old Harvard, and a gentleman of fine literary attainments, was added to the staff of the News as assistant editor.

I experienced little difficulty in getting up a paying list of subscribers for the News. Nearly every one on whom I called gladly subscribed for it, and paid me promptly at the end of each week. I had scarcely become accustomed to my new vocation, when the situation of book-keeper was tendered to me by the proprietors of the News, with a salary of $100 a week. I sold my carrier's route for $200, my shebang in Happy Valley for $125, and accepted the situation, with the proffer of a sleeping-bunk in the office. Soon after I was 259 261 installed in my new quarters, Mr. Leland sold his half-interest in the News to Major Allen, U.S.A., for $50,000, returned to New York and resumed his former occupation, hotel-keeping.

The Pacific News was the first tri-weekly, and the third newspaper then published in California, its cotemporaries being the Alta California, published by Gilbert & Kemble, in San Francisco, and the Placer Times, published by E. Gilbert & Co., Sacramento City, and edited by Jesse Giles—both weekly sheets, and small patterns at that, the latter being foolscap size. Printing-paper was very scarce in California, but the market was overstocked with unruled foolscap, which was substituted for the former. The size of the News was a foolscap sheet, and as enlargement was a matter of impossibility, supplementary sheets were added to accommodate advertisers. The price of the News was 12 1/2 cents a copy. Steamer edition, printed on wrapping-paper of various colors and qualities, 50 cents a copy. Advertisements were inserted at $5 a square, each insertion.

260 262
CHAPTER XV.

First State election—The winning candidates—“Fire! fire! fire!”—A million dollars' worth of property destroyed—“Big Ames's” report of the conflagration—An eccentric judge—Muddy streets—First vocal entertainment in San Francisco—Early theatricals—“Them literary fellers”—Terrence McVerdant—“A rallying song for the gold-diggers.”

THE State Constitution, framed and signed by the delegates at Monterey, in October, was submitted to a vote of the people on November 13th. State officers were also voted for at the same time; and the election passed off in an orderly manner. Out of the two thousand votes polled in San Francisco only five were opposed to the Constitution, and in the whole country less than a thousand votes were cast against it, and upwards of twelve thousand for it. The following State officers, U.S. Senators and Representatives were elected:

Governor, Peter H. Burnett; Lieutenant-Governor, John McDougal; U.S. Senators, John C. Fremont, Wm. M. Gwin; Representatives in Congress, George W. Wright, Edward Gilbert; Secretary of State, Wm. Van Voorhies; Treasurer, Richard Roman; Comptroller, J. S. Houston; Attorney-General, Edward J. C. Kewen; Surveyor-General, Charles J. Whiting; Chief Justice, S.C. 261 263

“OLD ADOBE” CUSTOM-HOUSE, 1849.

262 263 265 Hastings; Associate Justices, J. A. Lyon, Nathaniel Bennett; State Senators, Gabriel B. Post, Nathaniel Bennett; Assembly, Wm. Van Voorhies, Edward Randolph, Levi Stowell, J. H. Watson, J. A. Patterson.

Late in October a Democratic meeting, the first in California, was held in the Plaza, in front of the “old adobe,” at which the following officers were chosen: President, Colonel John W. Geary,*Vice-Presidents, Dr. McMillan, Thomas J. Agnew, John McVickar, W. H. Jones, O. P. Sutton, Annis Merrill, E. V. Joyce and W. H. Jones; Secretaries, J. Ross Browne, John A. McGlynn, Joseph T. Downey and Daniel Cronin. A series of resolutions were adopted, a red-hot Democratic speech delivered by the Hon. Wm. Van Voorhies, and the meeting adjourned.

Afterward Governor of Pennsylvania.

Early on the morning of the 24th of December, San Francisco was aroused by the startling cry of “ fire! fire!” and the citizens rushed pell-mell to the scene of conflagration. The fire originated in Dennison's Exchange, adjoining the Parker House, situated on Kearney Street, opposite the Plaza, and in a few hours property valued at more than a million dollars was destroyed. The Parker House, one of the most imposing buildings in San Francisco, with its faro and monté tables and other gambling paraphernalia, was totally destroyed, as was also the El Dorado, at the corner of Washington and Kearney Streets. The blowing up of several buildings in Washington Street, near Montgomery, 264 266 by order of Alcalde Geary, arrested the progress of the fire in that direction. Nearly every building in the square bounded by Washington, Clay, Montgomery and Kearney Streets was destroyed. The controlling spirit during the progress of the fire was David C. Broderick,* a New York fireman, who worked like a Trojan, and whose stentorian voice, shrill as a trumpet, could be heard above the crashing of the falling buildings and the din of the excited crowd. Before the ground in the burnt district had become cold, the debris was removed, canvas tenements erected, and the “gay gamboliers” were again plying their vocation as unconcernedly as if nothing had occurred to interfere with their business.

Subsequently U.S. Senator from California.

That fire was a “big thing” for “big Ames,” local editor of the News. He wrote out a spread-eagle report as long as the Declaration of Independence, but when it appeared in print on the following morning, “curtailed of its fair proportions,” cut down to less than a foolscap column, he was completely demoralized. He lost his temper and swore like a trooper. All efforts to soothe his wounded feelings only added fresh fuel to the pent-up volcano raging within his breast, which erupted iron-clad oaths at every breath. He said “the News was a contemptible one-horse sheet; its proprietors might possibly run a hotel, but they didn't understand the first principles of newspaper publishing, and he'd be darned if he'd write another line for the d—d paper”—and he didn't.

265 267

During the fall the business of the Alcalde had increased to such a degree, that the establishment of another court, with civil jurisdiction only, and in cases of sums exceeding $100, was authorized by the Governor, and William B. Almond was appointed judge. His court was called the “Court of First Instance.” Almond was no paper-shell, but a decidedly hard nut to crack, as the legal fraternity who practiced in his court soon learned. He was a man of few words, and, to economize time, generally decided a case on the testimony of the first witness, without listening to the arguments of counsel. During the trial of a trivial case before his Honor, the counsel for the plaintiff called his opponent an oscillating Tarquin. The judge, in a stentorian voice, roared out: “A what?”

“An oscillating Tarquin, your Honor.”

The judge removed his feet from the table in front of him, leaned forward, and pointing his index finger toward the offending disciple of Blackstone, ejaculated, in a voice of thunder: “If this honorable court knows herself, and she thinks she do, that remark is an insult to this honorable court, and you are fined two ounces, and stand committed till you down with the dust.”

“But, your Honor,” replied the trembling pettifogger.

“Silence, sir; this honorable court won't tolerate cussing, and never goes back on her decisions!”

It is needless to add that the fine was paid, and the trial proceeded.

“Old Tarquin,” as the judge was afterward called, 266 268 was a decided character. On a subsequent occasion he adjourned court ten minutes in order to take a drink with one of the jurors. On another occasion he insisted on trying two separate cases with the same jury. He said the jurors understood the rulings of the court, and rendered a square verdict!

The rainy season was now at its height—that ever-to-be-remembered fall and winter of 1849—'50—and the streets were simply awful! Awful is a mild term, but I can't just now call to mind a more expressive adjective. They ran rivers of mud, and swallowed up every living thing that attempted to cross them. Water-proof suits and cavalry or long boots were in great demand, and commanded Munchausenistic prices. It was no uncommon occurrence to see at the same time a mule stalled in the middle of the street with only his head above the mud, and an unfortunate pedestrian who had slipped off the plank sidewalk, being fished out by a companion. Some good Samaritan, with a heart overflowing with the milk of human kindness, erected at the corner of Clay and Kearney Streets the following warning to the unwary:

THIS STREET IS IMPASSABLE,

NOT EVEN JACKASSABLE!

On January 8th, the anniversary of the Battle of New Orleans, another election, the second in San Francisco, was held for members of the Legislature, 267 269

OLD SCHOOL-HOUSE, OPPOSITE THE PLAZA.

MUDDY STREETS, WINTER OF 1849-'50.

 268 269 271 Alcalde and Ayuntamiento. Despite the rain, which poured down in torrents during the day, the unterrified voters turned out in full strength, and elected the following gentlemen to the offices named: State Senator, David C. Broderick; Member of Assembly, Samuel J. Clarke; First Alcalde, John W. Geary; Second Alcalde, Frank Turk; Ayuntamiento, Hugh C. Murray, A.M. Van Nostrand, M. Crooks, J. Hagan, F. C. Gray, Frank Tilford, A. J. Ellis, Talbot H. Green, Wm. M. Stewart, Samuel Brannan, W. H. Davis and James S. Graham.

Man is naturally a social being; he likes rational enjoyment, and is fond of amusement. The first vocal entertainment in San Francisco was given by Mr. Stephen C. Massett, in the school-house, fronting the Plaza, on the evening of June 22d, 1849. It was a one-man entertainment—Mr. Massett being the only performer. Front seats were reserved for the ladies, of whom there were four present. Tickets were $3 each, and the house was crowded to overflowing. During the year 1849, and the early part of 1850, circuses were established in San Francisco, first by Rowe and soon after by Foley. The following were the prices of admission: Pit, $3; box, $5; private boxes, $50. The first theatrical performance in San Francisco was given in January, 1850, by a company under the management of Atwater & Madison, in the second story of Washington Hall, on Washington Street, opposite the Plaza. The plays produced were Charles II and The Wife. Subsequently, Mr. Rowe added a 270 272 stage to his circus for theatrical performances, and the following artistes were engaged: Mr. and Mrs. Hambleton, Mr. and Mrs. Battuss, and Mr. and Mrs. McCron. Mesdames Ray and Kirby soon after joined the company.

About this time the editor of the News was sorely worried by “them literary fellers,” who abound in all communities, with their contributions on all conceivable subjects, which in most cases were consigned to the waste-basket, that receptacle of the outcroppings of unappreciated genius.

The following epistle, however, found its way into print. It was written by a disconsolate son of the Emerald Isle to his sweetheart in New York, and shows the status of matters viewed from a Hibernian stand-point:

SAN FRANSISKY, Dec. 1, 1849.

BIDDY DARLIN':—I've been to the mines, bad luck to 'em. For sivin long weeks, Biddy, acushla, I sarched the bowels of terry firmer for goold, and all I got was the dissinterry, by rasin of workin' on an empty stomick. The divil a thing to ate for brekfist, and the same for dinner, and ditto repated for supper; an' all the time throwing up mud an' wather, is mighty wakening for the insides. Pitaytees was a $1 a pound, and no mate to be had but gristly bares, which is tough customers. In cowld wether the craythurs—I mane gristly bares—comes down from the mountains, with their arums extended, as if they wantid to bid ye welkim; but the moment they're fornenst ye, they grab ye, the craythers, and squaze the breth o' life out ov ye. Some ov the byes that wint out in the same ship wid me found goold galore, but the divil as much as the vally of a weddin'-ring, Biddy, did Terry git for his thrubble. The black luck was on me, darlin', for lavin ye, a dacent, modest colleen, as ye are, to come to a kunthry where the wimin are the color of a dirthy copper-kittle, and have no 271 273 more dry-goods on their backs, savin' your prisence, Biddy, than mother Ave had before she turned manty-maker an' interduced the fashun of the vegetabul apruns.

I got back from the mines a fortnit ago, and a most unfortnit go it was for me that I ever wint there. Here I am in San Fransisky knockin' about without a rap. What's to become of me, Biddy, mavourneen, the saints only know. Only to think that I should lave the comfortable berth I had swaping the strates of New Yorick, to come to this haythen kunthry, where the strate-claning is done by the burds, and drinkin', gamblin', speckalatin' an' shooiside is the only fashionable amusements. Ye'll see it statid in the papers, Biddy, that the diggers are findin' goold in “quartz.” Biddy, it's a lie!—a base, disateful, onchristian lie! I niver seen a lump of goold yit that would fill a gill measure.

Couldn't ye raise a subskripshun, Biddy, among the strate-swapers, to pay me passidge back. If I was only back in New Yorick, dead or alive, I'd niver lave it while grass grows and wather runs. Your loving,

TERRENCE McVERDANT.

The following poem, the earliest written and published in California, appeared in the Pacific News, with the following editorial comments:

We cannot refrain from publishing the following vigorous stanzas, trusting that they will impart as much pleasure in the perusal, to our readers, as they have to ourselves. We should be happy to give the author's name, as we deem them to possess no ordinary merit:

A RALLYING SONG FOR THE GOLD-DIGGERS. To the mines! to the mines! away to the mines! Where the virgin gold in the crevice shines! Where the shale and the slate and the quartz enfold, In their stony arms, the glittering gold.

272 274

'tis in vain that ye seek any longer to hide Your treasures of gold in your rivers so wide, In your gulches so deep, or your wild cañon home, For the Anglo-American race is come. And the noise that ye hear is the sound of the spade, The pick, the bar, and the bright shining blade, Of the knife and the shovel, the cradle and pan, Brave adjuncts of toil to the laboring man! Far up in the mountain, all rugged and steep, Far down in the cañon, all foaming and deep, In the bars of the rivers—the small mountain plains, Lies the wealth that ye seek for, in numberless grains. Turn the stream from its bed—search the bottom with care, The largest, the richest, the finest is there; Dig deep in the gulches, nor stop till the stone Reveals thee its treasure, or tells thee there's none. Nor be thou disheartened, dismayed nor cast down, If success should decline thy first efforts to crown; Go ahead! Go ahead! Since creation began, “No wealth without toil,” is the record to man. Old Mammon the sound of your coming hears, And, aroused from his sleep of a million years, He gazes around him, in wild surprise, As Mexican rule from the region flies. Now hie thee, old Mammon, far over the sea! Thy long-hidden treasure all scattered shall be; For the hands that now grasp it, free, ardent and bold, Will give to the world its lost millions of gold. Then away to the mines! away to the mines! Where the virgin gold in the crevice shines; Where the shale and the slate and the quartz enfold, In their stony arms, the glittering gold!

A. R. K.

SAN FRANCISCO, March 22, 1850.

273 275
CHAPTER XVI.

Locate in Sacramento City—The Sacramento Transcript —First election in Sacramento—Three tickets in the field—Names of the city and county officers elected—Meeting of the Council-elect—Demas Strong chosen President—He makes a speech—Adjourned meeting of Council—Mayor Bigelow's message read and accepted—First message of the first Mayor of Sacramento City.

DURING the winter of 1849-'50, I made the acquaintance of Mr. George Kenyon Fitch, a practical printer, from New Orleans, who arrived in San Francisco via Isthmus of Panama, in the month of September. Before leaving New Orleans, Mr. Fitch shipped, in a sailing vessel around Cape Horn, two presses, (a hand and card press,) types, ink, and some thirty reams of printing-paper, with the view of publishing a newspaper in California, on the arrival of the material. The invoice price of the paper, types and presses was $950, but when they arrived in San Francisco, in the early part of March, 1850, they were valued at $15,000, and could have been sold for that amount in coin, as printing material was very scarce, and “sorts” were worth their weight in gold! Mr. Fitch proposed to five of the attachés of the Pacific News —F. C. Ewer, H. S. Warren, J. M. Julian, Theodore Russell and S. C. Upham—the formation of a 274 276 co-partnership, with a view to the publication of a newspaper in Sacramento City. The proposition was accepted, articles of agreement executed, and we started at once for that place.

We arrived in Sacramento immediately after the great flood, which had inundated the town, and it was in a sadly demoralized condition. We rented the second floor of a frame building, on Second Street, between J and K Streets, and on the first day of April, 1850, the initial number of the tri-weekly Sacramento Transcript was issued by Fitch, Upham & Co. It was printed on a folio sheet, in Brevier and Nonpareil type. A steamer edition, for circulation in the Atlantic States, was printed on the first of each month. The tri-weekly sold at 12 1/2 cents a copy, and the steamer edition at 50 cents a copy. Advertisements were inserted at $4 per square, each insertion. The six copartners occupied the following positions on the paper: G. K. Fitch, heavy and fighting editor; F. C. Ewer, literary editor; H. S. Warren, foreman; J. M. Julian, compositor; Theodore Russell, pressman, and S. C. Upham, local reporter, printer's devil, business manager, “dead-head,” etc.

Sacramento City being in its infancy, in a chrysalis or state of transition, just emerging from its shell, hotel accommodations were limited. We lodged in the office, and obtained our meals at different places. I paid $16 a week for two meals a day at a French restaurant, on the levee, and slept on the soft side of the office counter, with a roll of paper for a pillow.

275 277

The object and aims of the Transcript were fully set forth in the following “Introductory:”

The opening of a new paper is like the planting of a tree. The hopes of many hearts cluster around it. The anxious mind labors over it by night and by day, and the watchful eye guards it, as, in its youth, it struggles into life. Encouraging words and the helping hand of its friends fall like raindrops around it, and the approving smile of the public steals in, like the sunshine, to open its buds. In the covert of its leaves all pure principles and high aims should find a home; and from it invisible voices should rise forth from the nests of those pure principles, to delight, to warm and to instruct the world. Its shade should be free to all. It should reach forth its branches to shield the innocent from the pelting storm; and, conscious of its fearless might, men should come to it for protection, and find refreshment in its shade. It should be nurtured by no unhealthy influences; it should be propped up by no interested motives; its growth should be free and unrestrained. Perchance it may wither in its youth, and no longer be the home of healthy influences. Perhaps it may be stricken in its manhood by the storm of adversity. Perchance it may flourish through the years and grow green; but, of all dangers that assail it from without, the insidious influence of those who may cluster around it for their own private ends is the most withering, and the most to be feared. A newspaper should never be used. It is too tremendous a lever to be brought to bear for any purpose, save the good of the public.

Such is our ideal; and with such an ideal before us, do we present ourselves before the public of Sacramento City. In politics, the Transcript will sedulously maintain an independent course, endeavoring to do justice to both parties. In religion, it will be neutral. We shall earnestly advocate such measures as we deem to be for the best interests of our city. We shall urge the introduction of every class of improvements—shoot error as it flies, and watch for every injury that is stealing in upon us. We shall endeavor to present to our readers in Sacramento City and the mines, the news from the 276 278 Pacific Coast, from the States, from Europe, from China and the Islands of the Pacific. For our friends in San Francisco and abroad, we shall collect the earliest intelligence from the mines. We shall inform them of the condition of things in California during the successive stages of its rapid growth, and shall spare no labor or expense to give our sheet that variety and interest which an intelligent community demands. Every facility will be extended to our advertising friends. So soon as the want of Sacramento will warrant it, we shall enlarge our sheet and issue our paper daily.

A part of our columns will be devoted to literature, to criticism, poetry, and anything of the belles-lettres cast. We have procured not only correspondents who will keep us advised of the latest intelligence from the mines, but several from San Francisco and the States, whose papers will be of a lighter and more literary character. We shall endeavor to give the Transcript an extensive circulation in the placers. It will thus be a connecting link between the business and mining community; furnishing merchants in San Francisco and Sacramento a convenient means for communication with the mines.

Such are our aims, and to attain them we shall use our highest endeavors; trusting, as we embark in the enterprise, that our well-meant efforts will meet with support from the known liberality of the inhabitants of the city of our adoption.

The day on which the first number of the Transcript was published, in addition to being “ All-fools' Day,” was election day in Sacramento. It was the first election under the City Charter, and there were three tickets in the field. Canvassing had been going on for several weeks previously, both in the city and throughout the county, and an immense number of ballots and handbills had been circulated. The polls remained open until late in the evening, and there were lively 277 279 times around the ballot-boxes. There was no rioting, but a great deal of superfluous gas was ventilated and considerable whisky drunk. The following political advertisements, published in the Transcript on the morning of the election, will serve to show the complexion of affairs:

DEMOCRATIC NOMINATIONS.

—In pursuance of a public call, a meeting of Democratic citizens was convened at the City Hotel, in Sacramento City, on Monday evening, March 25, 1850, for the purpose of organizing the Democratic Party, and nominating a Ticket for City and County Officers, to be supported at the ensuing election. John S. Fowler was called to the chair; J. P. Rogers, H. A. Shelden and Lorin Pickering were chosen Vice Presidents, and John K. Brown and Orlando McKnight appointed Secretaries.

On motion, a committee of three was appointed by the chair to draft resolutions; whereupon L. Pickering, James McClatchy, and J. K. Brown, were appointed such committee: On motion, a committee of fifteen was appointed by the chair to report a Ticket to be supported at the coming election for City and County Officers, and the following gentlemen constituted such committee: Wm. C. Kibbe, John Ayres, Alex. Boyd, C. H. Cummings, James McClatchy, James Orchard, D. B. Milne, —McCalla, —Noulton, J. Sherwood, J. F. Thorp, Levi Hermance, J. R. Riggs, Wm. S. Jackson, J. Deming. The committee appointed to report a Ticket, having retired, reported the following— CITY TICKET. For Mayor—Thomas J. Henley. For City Recorder—Charles A. Johnson. For Marshal—N. C. Cunningham. For City Attorney—A. C. Monson. For Assessor—B. F. Moore. For Treasurer—Barton Lee. For City Council—John S. Fowler. J. Sherwood, R. W. Vansickle, Wm. Baker, Wm. C. Kibbe, J. Hardenbergh, Orlando McKnight, E. L. Brown, P. M. Dorsey. COUNTY TICKET. For Clerk Supreme Court—E. H. Tharp. District Attorney—John K. Brown. County Judge—Ansel J. McCall. County Clerk—Leander Warren. County Attorney—Lewis Aldrich. County Surveyor—J. H. Dickerson. Sheriff— County Recorder—Lewis A. Birdsall. Coroner—P. F. Ewer. County Treasurer—Eugene F. Gillespie. County Assessor—L. P. Stafford. The Committee on Resolutions reported the following preamble and resolutions: Whereas, a Government has been organized; a Constitution adopted; and a new State already, or about to be admitted into the Union: and, whereas, through the proper authorities a City Charter has been obtained for this city, it becomes all true Republicans to exert themselves in procuring wholesome laws, and the success of sound democratic principles—the only principles that can secure a proper administration of 278 280 government and equal rights and privileges among the governed—therefore, be it Resolved, That the organization of government creates a necessity for the organization of party. Resolved, That the republican principles laid down by Jefferson, the Father of Democracy, and the measures that have characterized all democratic administrations, meet with our hearty approval and unqualified support. Resolved, That in Municipal, as well as State and National Governments, the laws should be so framed as to secure equal rights to all, and special privileges to none. Resolved, That honest and honorable competition is the life of trade, and that we are opposed to fostering one branch of business at the expense of another or building up one enterprise by taxing another: but that we stand on the broad platform of “Free Trade and Sailors' Rights.” Resolved, That the practice heretofore adopted, of taxing business instead of property, and which is still authorized by section 5th of the City Charter, is neither wise nor democratic, but that all revenue necessary to defray the expenses of government should be collected by a direct tax, levied upon property. Resolved, That a fair and liberal compensation only, be awarded to office holders for their services, and not such emoluments as may induce all to become office seekers. Resolved, That as it is never too soon to advocate Democratic principles, so it is never too early to exercise our united efforts in securing their triumph. Resolved, That we now launch the good old ship of Democracy—spread her canvas to the breeze—nail her colors to the mast—and pledge our united efforts to secure the triumphant election of the regularly nominated Democratic candidates. On motion, Levi Hermance, Barton Lee, E. W. Crowell, S. W. Gregg, and J. F. Thorp, were constituted a Town Committee. On motion, The Town Committee were instructed to confer with Democrats throughout the county for the purpose of holding a County Convention and organizing the Democratic party throughout the county. On motion, the meeting adjourned. JOHN S. FOWLER, Chairman. J. K. BROWN, Secretaries. ORLANDO McKNIGHT, 1t CITIZENs' MEETING.—At a spontaneous assemblage of the citizens of Sacramento City, held at the City Hotel, on Monday evening the 25th inst., immediately upon the adjournment of the self-constituted Democratic meeting, whereat an attempt was made to organize a Democratic party, Demas Strong was called to the chair, and Jos. W. Winans appointed Secretary. After some able and eloquent addresses, in explanation of the object of the meeting, the following resolutions were unanimously adopted: Resolved, That a committee of five be appointed to draft a series of resolutions, for presentation at a subsequent public meeting of the citizens of Sacramento City, of the time and place of holding which, public notice shall be given by the chairman. Resolved, That Messrs. Nickerson, Nolan, Bullock, Winans, and Warbass, constitute such committee. Resolved, That the Chair be added to such committee as the chairman thereof. Resolved, That in the view of this meeting, any attempt at this time to effect a political organization, on party grounds, is TOTALLY UNCALLED FOR, and that the meeting held this evening, prior to the present meeting, did not, and does not represent the Democratic Party of Sacramento City. Resolved, That the Democratic Republicans here 279 281 assembled, protest against the very partial proceedings of said meeting, as being contrary to Democratic principles and usages, and recommend the electors of Sacramento City to give their franchise to such men as they may deem most suitable to fill the various offices in their gift. Resolved, That the proceedings of this meeting be published in the “Placer Times” and “Sacramento Transcript.” On motion, the meeting was thereupon adjourned. DEMAS STRONG, Chairman. JOS. W. WINANS, Secretary. 1t RANCHEROS, TO THE RESCUE!—The enemy is in the field—our bills have been mutilated, and in some instances destroyed; but let not your “angry passions rise” in consequence of the indignity. Imitate as far as in your power lies the example of your leader. Keep cool, work hard and vote early. Remember that abuse and curses, like young chickens, “will come home to roost.” When once the votes are in the ballot boxes, no appeal can be taken. HOMBRES. RANCHO TICKET. THROUGH BY DAYLIGHT! For Mayor—JOSEPH GRANT. For City Recorder—B. F. Washington. For Councilmen—T. McDowell, C. A. Tweed, Z. Hubbard, Charles O. Brewster, E. J. Feeney, D. Strong, Dr. J. F. Morse, Dr. James S. Martin, Charles H. Miller. For City Marshal—M. D. Eyre. For City Attorney—A. C. Monson. For City Assessor—Wm. F. Prettyman. For City Treasurer—Barton Lee. RANCHO TICKET—FOR THE COUNTY. “ All's well that ends well.” For Clerk of the Supreme Court—E. H. Tharp. For District Attorney—William C. Wallace. For County Judge—Edward J. Willis. For County Clerk—Presley Dunlap. For County Attorney—John H. McKune. For County Surveyor—Andrew J. Binney. For Sheriff—Joseph D. Magee, (better known as Johnny Rancho.) For County Recorder—Thomas A. Warbass. For County Assessor—D. W. Thorpe. For Coroner—Henry F. Beadle. For County Treasurer—Wm. Glaskin. 1t Capt. W. G. MARCY authorizes us to announce the withdrawal of his name as candidate for the office of Clerk of the Supreme Court, in favor of E. H. THARP, Esq., the present Clerk. TO THE PUBLIC. I am authorized to say to the friends of EUGENE F. GILLESPIE, that his business makes it impossible for him to run for or accept any office; at the same time he is grateful to his friends for their confidence manifested by the nomination of him for Councilman and County Treasurer. A. M. WINN. Sacramento City, March 29, 1850. ap 1 1t

The whole number of votes polled for Mayor was 2,493, and Hardin Bigelow, the peoples' candidate, had a majority over all others of 323. The following is a list of the city and county officers elected, 280 282 with the number of votes received by each candidate:

Mayor, Hardin Bigelow, 1,521

City Recorder, B. F. Washington, 885

“Marshal, N. C. Cunningham, 1,323

“Attorney, J. Neely Johnson, 1,697

“Assessor, J. W. Woodland, 792

“Treasurer, Barton Lee, 2,310

“Council, C. A. Tweed, 1,629

“ “ V. Spalding, 1,621

“ “ Demas Strong, 1,420

“ “ T. McDowell, 1,462

“ “ J. McKenzie, 1,182

“ “ C. H. Miller, 887

“ “ J. R. Hardenbergh, 862

“ “ Jesse Moore, 869

“ “ A. P. Petit, 804

County Treasurer, William Glaskin, 1,104

District Attorney, Wm. C. Wallace, 2,011

County” J. H. McKune, 2,021

“Judge, E. J. Willis, 1,818

“Clerk, Presley Dunlap, 1,567

“Recorder, L. A. Birdsall, 714

“Sheriff, J. McKinney, 619

“Surveyor, J. G. Cleal, 1,152

“Assessor, D. W. Thorp, 1,224

“Coroner, P. F. Ewer, 579

Clerk Supreme Court, E. H. Tharp, 1,313

A meeting of the Council elect was held at the Court-house, on the morning of the 4th of April, and, on motion of Jesse Moore, C. A. Tweed was called to the chair, as President pro tem., and on motion of Volney Spaulding, Chas. H. Miller was requested to act as Secretary pro tem. On motion of Demas Strong, the members of the Council 281 283 proceeded to the election of President of that body. Mr. Demas Strong having received a majority of the votes was declared duly elected President of the Council, and, after being conducted to the chair by a committee, returned thanks for the honor conferred on him in a brief but appropriate address. A committee was also appointed to wait upon the Hon. Hardin Bigelow, Mayor-elect, and inform him that the Council was duly organized, and ready to receive any communication he might think proper to make. The Mayor appeared before the Council and delivered a short and pertinent address. The Council then adjourned to meet on the following day at ten o'clock, A.M. The Council met the next day pursuant to adjournment, and a message from his Honor, the Mayor, was read, accepted and referred to a select committee. The regular meetings of the board were ordered to be held on Tuesday evening of each week, at seven o'clock, at the Court-house; and the board then adjourned. The following is the first message of the first Mayor of Sacramento City:

TO THE HONORABLE THE PRESIDENT AND COUNCIL OF SACRAMENTO CITY:

GENTLEMEN:—In compliance with a duty imposed upon me by our City Charter, I respectfully submit the following for your consideration.

The first great and paramount object to be accomplished the present year, and one which involves the deepest interest of the citizens of Sacramento City, is the immediate construction of a levee, to protect permanently the city from future inundation by water. By the 7th section of the Charter, the city is 282 284 restrained from raising a revenue to exceed $100,000 for the current expenses of the year, without direct authority from the people.

I, therefore, respectfully recommend the immediate passage of an order in Council directing an election at an early date to raise the necessary revenue for the completion of the work. The estimated amount of material required for the entire work, ascertained by the late survey of the City Engineer, is about 160,000 cubic yards, and the estimated cost $250,000. This sum, I believe, will exceed the actual cost of the work, but it is far safer to raise more than is required than not enough.

I would further recommend that a cheap railway track be laid along the levee or bank of the river, and the material brought from more distant points where it can be obtained of a better quality and at a cheaper rate. Such a track along the levee, of not over two miles in length, will not interfere with the business on the levee, and will afford the most ready and cheap conveyance of material to fill up the low places in the city.

I would recommend also that the present banks of the river be not disturbed, as they are bold and easy of access, and form a far more permanent barrier to the action of the water than the finances of the city will allow to be made the present year without rendering taxation at once onerous and oppressive. The grading and paving of the levee is a work that can be accomplished at a later period, when our population and taxable property shall have greatly increased, and as the necessity may arise.

Few, if any, of the commercial points along the margins of our great and navigable rivers present less obstacles to the complete success of a city than that of Sacramento, occupying, as it does, the most elevated position upon the banks of the Sacramento River above Suisun Bay, being at the immediate head of ship-navigation, and controlling nearly three-fourths of all the gold region of California—with no evident marks of periodical inundation, but subject only to those occasional and violent convulsions of water that occur in all countries, and 283 285 which have been more destructive upon the north-western Pacific Coast the present year than ever before known. But an embankment averaging two and a half feet in height along the bank of the river, or a levee, with a fifty-foot base, and a dike or embankment from the levee or high ground in the southern part of the city of about one mile in length, and the filling of two or three inlets from the American River, would have completely protected the city from the late unusual high water, and the consequent loss to the citizens. The necessity of an early commencement of the work is apparent from the fact that the material becomes very hard and compact in the extreme drought of the latter part of the season.

The three small lakes that will be included within the limits of the levee are of the utmost importance to the city, as they form natural depositories for the surplus water that may accumulate within the city limits during the winter or rainy season, or that may find its way through any porous strata during the high water.

The whole limit of the present corporation should be included within the levee, for there cannot be a doubt but the whole area will soon be covered with buildings, in view of the commanding position of Sacramento, and its relation to a constantly-increasing mining region, capable of sustaining a population of five millions by its mining and agricultural resources.

I would recommend that the fund raised for this object be raised as a separate and distinct fund from the other expenses of the city.

I would further recommend the establishment of such regulations upon the present levee as will best promote the interest of the business community and yield the greatest revenue to the city. The regulations as adopted upon the levee in the different municipalities of New Orleans, would, I think, be very applicable to this city. It will be necessary to have some wharf-ships, anchored at convenient places, for steamboat and passenger landings, under suitable rates of wharfage.

The practice of keeping powder and loaded guns in stores 284 286 and tents, generally, is one that requires immediate remedy. The accident that occurred at the late fire by the discharge of a loaded gun, and the constant explosions of powder that occur at every fire, will soon drive the citizens from saving the property of their neighbors during a fire, as their own lives are in danger.

I would, therefore, recommend the licensing of certain establishments, in safe locations, for the sale of powder, and the restraining of others.

And I especially recommend liberal appropriations for the establishment of fire companies; and that every aid and encouragement consistent be given said companies, as the only security to property in a city without insurance is in a well-organized fire department.

I would further recommend to the early attention of the Council the adoption of immediate measures for the removal of the deposit of animal matter and other nuisances within the limits of the city proper, and that a sum of $5,000 be loaned for this and other purposes so essential to the health and credit of the city.

The necessity will arise in due time, or as soon as the finances of the city will permit, for the erection of a City Hospital, to be supported by the city. Such institutions are the just pride of Americans in all our cities. Any regulations which may now be in existence for the care of the poor, should receive liberal support from the city.

The necessity for establishing a City Prison will soon arise, unless one should be established by the county which will answer both purposes. One can be obtained at very small expense, as a foreign vessel can be purchased below very cheap, which the Collector will permit to come up to this place for that purpose.

In regard to the various offices within your gift, I would recommend the appointment of honest and capable men, and hold them to the strictest accountabilities, and that the most rigid economy be practiced in all the departments of the city government.

I would also recommend that just and uniform assessments 285 287 be made upon real and personal property as the basis of taxation, with such incidental taxation as the circumstances and wants of the city may require; and that such assessments and levy of taxes be made quarterly during the current year, in order to make the burden of the people as light as possible, meet the rapid increase of real and personal property, and more justly equalize taxation. The stranger that may arrive six months hence with his capital is as much to be benefited by the improvements of the city as the present citizen. When the assessment-roll is once made out, it will require but little additional expense to correct it once in three months.

I am unable to ascertain the exact liabilities of the city; but, from the best information I am able to obtain, they will amount to $60,000, and no accruing revenue whatever. This sum, together with the current expenses of the year, cannot be less than one hundred and sixty thousand (160,000) dollars. All just liabilities of the city should, by all means, be paid, and at as early a date as the city finances will allow. I have no doubt that the sum authorized by the Charter, with such incidental revenue as can be created, will be ample and sufficient for the current expenses of the year and the payment of present liabilities. The only sum necessary to be raised by a vote of the people will be for the levee.

It will require much patriotism and forbearance on the part of the people to meet the accruing wants of the city the coming year. I believe, however, the sum can be raised so as not to be oppressive.

I would especially recommend to the Council that every aid, consistent with their authority and the finances of the city, be given to public schools.

There are other very necessary and important improvements to be made in the city, such as the grubbing and grading of the streets, the building of bridges and sidewalks, and the erection of a market-house; all of which will claim your attention in due time; but our present embarrassments and limited authority for raising money admonish us not to undertake too much.

286 288

I believe, however, that a just, energetic and economical course on our part, which will command the confidence and respect of the people, will insure a sufficient revenue for all practical and beneficial purposes.

HARDIN BIGELOW,

Mayor of the City.

SACRAMENTO CITY, April 6th, 1850.

287 289
CHAPTER XVII.

First conflagration in Sacramento City—Amount of property destroyed—Collation given to the fire department by Mayor Bigelow—Henri Herz, the French composer and pianist—His concerts in Sacramento City—First negro minstrel performance in Sacramento—Rowe's Olympic Circus—Grand soiree—Rival politicians—First meeting of the I. O. of O. F. in Sacramento City—The Masons and Odd Fellows establish a hospital—Sutter Lodge of Ancient York Masons—Private hospitals—First public marriage in Sacramento—The Placer Times —Colonel Joseph E. Lawrence.

AT one o'clock, on the morning of the 4th of April, the citizens of Sacramento City were aroused from their slumbers by the appalling cry of “fire!” The fire commenced in the store of Messrs. Hoope & L'Amoreux, and spread rapidly north and south. The buildings consumed fronted on the levee, between J and K Streets. The El Dorado, adjoining the store of Hoope & L'Amoreux on the north, soon caught and was enveloped in a sheet of flame. At the same time, the next store to the south, in which was the Express Office of Brown & Knowlton, caught and was speedily consumed. The wind was blowing from the north at the time, and Fowler & Co.'s store next became a prey to the conflagration. The fire also spread in a northerly direction from the El Dorado to the general merchandise store of Bailey, Morrison & Co.; nor was 288 290 its course stayed in this direction until the next building, occupied by Thomas Bannister as a general grocery and eating-house, had been consumed; while at the same time, at the south from Messrs. Fowler & Co.'s store, the fire passed to the General Jackson House, which was entirely destroyed. Here the progress of the flames was arrested; the drug store of Dr. Crane, the next building toward the south, having been torn down. Messrs. Jackson & Adams occupied a canvas house in the rear of Hoope & L'Amoreux's building, which was also consumed.

The loss sustained by Thomas Bannister was $2,000; Bailey, Morrison & Co., $5,000; El Dorado, owned by Geo. H. Pettybone, $14,000; James Hyslop, $3,000; Hoope & L'Amoreux, $20,000, together with the loss of books and papers; Mr. Yates Ferguson had also in this store $2,000 worth of goods and $1,000 in gold-dust; the books, drugs and instruments of Dr. Chas. Burrell burned were valued at $1,000; stock of provisions in Jackson & Adams's canvas house, $2,000; Messrs. Fowler & Co., $10,000; Frank Green, $600. A large amount of property was saved by Mr. Demas Strong, aided by the fire department. Both the engine and hook and ladder company were upon the field early and worked manfully. The hook and ladder company did good service in hauling away buildings that must have otherwise been the cause of spreading the conflagration, and the engine company spared no pains or labor to make their engine as effective as possible. There were several explosions of powder during the fire. A loaded 289 291 gun in one of the burning houses exploded, wounding Jos. M. Hancock in the hand.

After the fire, the members of the fire department were invited, with their friends, by Mayor Bigelow, to repair to the City Hotel, where a collation was spread for them on the long table, which reached from one end of the dining-room to the other. After having fortified the inner man, toasts were offered and brief speeches made by Messrs. Bigelow, Strong, Fowler, McNulty, Bailey and others, and the company adjourned in much better spirits than when fighting the fire.

On the day of the fire, before the ashes were cold on the site of the General Jackson House, Frank Green cleaned away the rubbish and erected a frame 22 by 23 feet, which he covered with canvas, and before night had his bar fully supplied with liquors, which he dispensed to the thirsty crowd at 50 cents a drink!

Henri Herz, the celebrated composer and pianist, who arrived in San Francisco on the 1st of April, gave the first of a series of three concerts in Sacramento City, on the evening of the 16th of the same month, at the New Hall, corner of M and Front Streets. The following announcement of the affair appeared in the Transcript:

THE Composer and Pianist, H. HERZ will give his first Grand Concert, vocal and instrumental, at the New Hall, corner of M and Front street, on

THIS EVENING, April 16, On which occasion Henri Herz will play several of his most celebrated pieces, and conclude the Concert with an extemporaneous performance on several American, French, Italian and German popular songs.

Mr. REED will sing several of his favorite ballads. 290 292

Mr. S. BROWN will perform two solos on the Cornet-a-Piston.

G. PETINOS will preside at the Piano Forte.

Mr. HERZ, at the earnest solicitation of many of our citizens, has agreed to give three concerts in Sacramento City, previous to his departure by the next steamer.

For further particulars, see small bills.

Tickets for the course, (three concerts,) $10; single tickets, $4 each;—to be procured at the bars of the Sutter and City Hotels; at the office of the “Transcript,” and at the door.

Doors open at 7—concert to commence at 8 o'clock. ap16-1t

The concert came off on the evening announced, but owing to the absence of Mr. Brown, who was engaged to perform two solos on the cornet-a-piston, the programme was somewhat curtailed. The piano used on the occasion, the only one in the city, contained only six octaves, which somewhat cramped the genius of the great master, but he gave an admirable entertainment, nevertheless, and the audience was delighted. As tickets of admission were $4 each, and no one was admitted without a “biled shirt,” the audience was not large, but very select. At the conclusion of the concert, Mr. Herz and several of the audience repaired, by invitation, to the cottage of Mr. P. B. Cornwall, where they “tripped the light fantastic toe” until a late hour. Mr. Cornwall, during a residence of eighteen months in California, had amassed a fortune of half a million dollars, and was on the eve of his departure for the States. During the evening, Mr. Cornwall presented to Mr. Herz a magnificent gold watch-chain, composed entirely of specimens artistically linked together. At the remaining two concerts, Mr. Herz was assisted by Mr. S. C. Massett, who was announced on the programme as follows: “The celebrated vocalist, S. C. Massett, will sing several 291 293 songs and ballads, and give comic recitations, together with imitations illustrative of the peculiarities of Yankee character.”

I will here state, that the first regular theatrical entertainment in California was given in Sacramento City, on October 18th, 1849, at the Eagle Theatre, on Front Street, between I and J Streets, by the following company: Messrs. J. B. Atwater, J. H. McCabe, T. Fairchild, Chas. B. Price, H. F. Daley, Henry Ray, A. W. Wright, J. Haines and Mrs. Ray. The Eagle Theatre, a frail structure, closed never to open again on the 4th of January, 1850, and was succeeded by the Tehama Theatre, under the management of Mrs. J. C. Kirby, an accomplished and talented actress, and widow of “wake me up when Kirby dies” Kirby. Attached to the Tehama company were Mesdames Hambleton, Mestayer and Bingham, and Messrs. Atwater, Fairchild, McCloskey, Bingham, Byers and Downie. Mr. and Mrs. Hambleton were both accomplished artistes; Mr. Hambleton was a fine comedian, “a fellow of infinite jest,” and he could also play tragic characters in an acceptable manner.

On the 23d of April, 1850, “ Donnelly's Ethiopian Serenders” gave their first entertainment at the New Hall, corner of Front and M Streets, being the first exhibition of Ethiopian Minstrelsy given in Sacramento City. The price of admission was $2, and the house was crowded. The following announcement was published in the Transcript of April 20:

292 294

DONNELLY's Ethiopian Serenaders.

MESSRS. DONNELLY, (formerly of Christy's Minstrels,) WARD, STEPHENS, KITTS, NESBET, Respectfully announce to the public that they will give a series of Entertainments at the New Hall, (adjoining the new Theatre,) corner of M and Front streets, commencing TUESDAY EVENING, the 23d inst.

Admission, $2—tickets can be procured at the bars of the principal Hotels, also at the office of the Transcript, and at the door.

Front seats reserved for ladies.

Doors open at 7 o'clock—performance to commence at 8 o'clock precisely. ap20-2t

On the evening of May 2d, Mr. J. A. Rowe opened his Olympic Circus, the first circus in Sacramento City, at the new Pacific Theatre on M Street, with the following programme:

Rowe's Olympic Circus,

At the New Pacific Theatre, on M street.

J. A. ROWE, Proprietor and Manager, has the honor to announce to the citizens of Sacramento City, that his arrangements are at length completed for the opening of a new and elegant building devoted to feats of Horsemanship. He relies with confidence on the liberal support of the admirers of the Equestrian art, assuring the public that nothing shall be wanting on his part to win their approbation.

Equestrian Director, Mr. J. Rowe; Ring Master, Mr. Westcott; Clown, Mr. Moor; Leader of the Orchestra, Mr. Smithsnyder.

PROGRAMME FOR THIS EVENING, May 2 d.—The performance will commence with an Overture from William Tell, performed by the Orchestra; followed by a Grand Star and Waltz Entree, on six horses, led by Mr. and Mrs. Rowe, embracing a variety of rapid evolutions. After which, Mr. Rowe will dance his celebrated Dancing Horse “Adonis,” to the favorite tune of Yankee Doodle. To be followed by an act of horsemanship by the Little Rising Star. Master Rafael, a pupil of Mr. Rowe's, who will execute his daring Equestrian Feats, Leaping Whip, Garters, Hoops, riding upon his head, with the horse at full speed. Mr. Rowe will then introduce his celebrated domestic Horse Adonis, in the beautiful scene of the Indian Hunter, and his Wild Charger. Mr. Burke will sing an Irish Comic Song, “You may travel the wide world over.” Mr. Rowe will appear in the circle and go through his principal Leaping Act, on his favorite charger, leaping a variety of difficult objects held over the circle, displaying many classical attitudes, with his horse at full speed. At this period of the performance there will be an intermission of ten minutes, giving the audience an opportunity of refreshing 293 295 themselves at the adjoining saloons. Part II.—Dr. Downs will introduce the laughable scene of the Peasant's Frolic, in which the Clown will take an active part on the noble horse Napoleon. Mr. Burke will dance a Sailor's Hornpipe. Mr. Rowe will represent on horseback the much admired scene of the American Tar. Intermission of fifteen minutes in order to give time for the preparation of the Afterpiece. The whole to conclude with the very laughable pantomime of The Cobbler's Daughter. Clown to the whole performance, Mr. Moor.

The Assistant Manager, Mr. Kirbey, with sufficient officers, will be in attendance to keep order and decorum.

Price of Admission.—Private boxes $5; dress circle and parquette, $3; second tier, $2.

Doors open at half past seven, and performance to commence precisely at 8 o'clock.

Tickets and private boxes can be obtained by applying at the box office from 10 A.M. to 12 M., and from 3 to 5 P.M.; also during the performance. m2

The completion of the new Pacific Theatre was celebrated by a grand ball, which came off at the theatre on the evening of the 25th of April, and was the grandest affair of its kind that had ever taken place in California. In order to make the event more attractive, invitations were extended to ladies residing in San Francisco and Stockton, several of whom were present. The following announcement of the Grand Soiree appeared in the advertising columns of the Transcript:

At a meeting of a number of citizens of Sacramento City, the following gentlemen were constituted Managers of a Grand Soiree to be given in honor of the erection and opening of the Pacific Theatre:Hon. Hardin Bigelow, Capt. Sackett, “ T. J. White, M. D., Job H. Watson, “ P. B. Cornwall, S. Brannan, Barton Lee, Almarin B. Paul, Judge Schoolcraft, J. F. Morse, Judge Thomas, Thomas A. Warbass, Eugene F. Gillespie, J. A. Blossom, C. D. Cleveland, M. D., A. Lee, Col. Winn, B. F. Washington, S. P. Dewey, D. Strong, A. P. Petit, P. Brunell, J. H. Giles, G. B. Freeland, F. C. Ewer, J. Nicholas, Col. H. A. Baker, T. McDowell, R. P. Pearis, M. D., E. R. Pratt, James Queen, W. F. Prettyman, Murray Morrison, I. B. Marshall, J. S. Fowler, R. D. Tory. At a meeting of the Managers of the Grand Soiree, held at the counting room of Messrs. Paul, White & Co., Dr. THOMAS J. WHITE was called to the 294 296 chair, and ALMARIN B. PAUL appointed Secretary. The meeting being duly organized the following resolutions were offered and adopted: 1st. Resolved, That this party shall be given on the 25th of April. 2d. Resolved, That the President shall appoint such persons as he may deem suitable to act on the following committees: 1st. Reception and Invitation. 2d. Floor. 3d. On Refreshments. 4th. On Finance. Judge Schoolcraft being called upon to perform this duty, reported the following: Committee of Invitation and Reception. Hon. Hardin Bigelow, Murray Morrison, “ T. J. White, R. P. Pearis, M. D., F. C. Ewer, Col. H. A. Baker, John S. Fowler, C. D. Cleveland, M. D., J. H. Giles, R. D. Tory. Floor Committee. Judge Thomas, Almarin B. Paul, G. B. Freeland, Thomas A. Warbass, F. C. Ewer, G. P. Dewey, A. P. Petit, W. F. Prettyman. Refreshment Committee. D. Strong, James Queen, B. F. Washington, Capt. Sackett, J. Nicholas, E. R. Pratt, J. A. Blossom. Committee on Finance. Eugene Gillespie, Barton Lee, J. F. Morse, Col. Winn, B. Brunell, Judge Schoolcraft, A. Lee. 3d. Resolved, That the duties of each committee be defined, and that the Secretary shall notify them of the same. 4th. Resolved, That the Secretary be empowered to fill all vacancies. 5th. Resolved, That the various committees be under the control of the managers, as a Committee of the Whole. 6th. Resolved, That the managers meet at the Saloon of the Theatre, to receive the reports of the various committees on Monday Evening, 22d inst., at half past 7 o'clock. 7th. Resolved, That the proceedings be published in the several city papers, and that the meeting now adjourn. T. J. WHITE, President. ALMARIN B. PAUL, Secretary.

Grand Soiree.

At a meeting of the Managers of the Grand Soiree, holden at the Saloon of the Pacific Theatre, on the afternoon of the 19th inst., the following resolutions were adopted:

1st. Resolved, That tickets of admission be issued to ladies as well as to gentlemen, and that the gentlemen be required to present them as well as their own, at the door on the evening of the Soiree.

2d. Resolved, That gentlemen desiring tickets will apply for them to the Committee of Invitation, through the secretary.

3d. Resolved, That the price of admission tickets be $25. ALMARIN B. PAUL, Sec'y.

Committee of Invitation and Reception

For the Grand Soiree to be given on the evening of the 25th April, at the Pacific Theatre.

HON. HARDIN BIGELOW, MURRAY MORRISON,

“ T. J. WHITE, R. A. PEARIS, M. D.,

F. C. EWER, COL. W. A. BAKER,

JOHN S. FOWLER, C. B. CLEVELAND M. D.,

J. H. GILES, ALMARIN B. PAUL.

ap20-3t

295 297

Sacramento City put on her best bib and tucker in honor of this affair. The parquette of the theatre was floored over, a fine band of music engaged, and a magnificent supper was served for the occasion under the supervision of Mr. John S. Fowler, proprietor of the City Hotel. Dancing was continued until the “wee small hours,” and many of the participants “didn't go home till morning, till daylight did appear.” Mr. E. C. Kemble, one of the editors of the Alta California, came up from San Francisco to attend the soiree, but on examining his apparel, found that his pantaloons were a little too seedy to pass regulation muster. His “biled shirt” and swallow-tail coat were unexceptionable, and to complete his tout ensemble, I loaned him my best black cassimeres, which had been laid away in lavender since leaving Philadelphia. The fit was a tight one; so tight in fact, that a sudden attempt to sit down would have caused an irreparable collapse of the fabric in a very undesirable and embarrassing quarter; but luck favored him, and he passed the ordeal without accident to the pants.

Mr. Charles H. Miller, one of the city fathers elected on the 1st of April, upon “sober second thought,” declined the honor conferred upon him, and an election to fill the vacancy was ordered by the President of Common Council, to take place on the 21st of May. The following patriots, anxious to serve their country, announced themselves as candidates for the office. The cards of the two Aeronauts, and that of A. D. Bell, are decidedly unique:

296 298

We are authorized to announce Dr. T. J. WHITE as a candidate for a seat in the Common Council, in the place of C. H. Miller, resigned. mll-5t

CANDIDATE FOR THE COMMON COUNCIL.—The many friends of JAMES QUEEN, Esq., propose his name to the voters of Sacramento as a candidate for a seat in the Common Council to fill the vacancy of Chas. H. Miller, Esq., resigned. NOTICE.—The undersigned having been presented to the public as a candidate to fill the vacancy in the City Council, respectfully solicits the consideration of those of his friends who think him worthy of their support. JAMES QUEEN. Election on Tuesday, May 21st. 4t At the solicitation of individuals who have the good of Sacramento City at heart, Doct. CHARLES H. MORRILL, formerly Æronaut in the States, (a permanent resident here,) is a candidate to fill the vacancy in the Council, occasioned by the resignation of C. H. Miller, Esq. Election to take place on the 21st instant. m14 4t At the solicitation of my wife Nancy, who has the good of herself at heart, and deeply interested in the successful cultivation of mutton-heads, A. D. BELL, who has made several descents in a diving bell, and late one of the floating population of this aquatic city, is a candidate for the City Council at the election to take place on the 21st inst. 1t At the earnest solicitation of numerous friends who cherish a lively interest in the welfare of Sacramento City, J. F. LUKEN, formerly Æronaut of Cincinnati in the United States, (and now permanently located here,) announces himself as a candidate for a seat in the Council. Election to take place on Tuesday, (this day) the 21st inst.

The election came off as announced with the following result:

James Queen, 1,008

W. N. Doughty, 571

T. J. White, 337

C. H. Morrill, 36

A. D. Bell, 1

Rejected as illegal, 4

Whole number of votes polled, 1,957

Queen's plurality, 437

“ majority, 59

297 299

Queen was triumphant, and the Aeronauts went up in a balloon!

On the evening of April 4th, the members of the Independent Order of Odd Fellows, in Sacramento City, met in the Court-house, A. M. Winn, President of the Odd Fellows Association, in the chair. The chairman having explained the object of the meeting, a committee of five, with proper credentials, was appointed to apply to Lieutenant Fraser, D. D. Grand Sire for the State of California, requesting him to visit Sacramento and formally establish a lodge. About the same time, the Odd Fellows, in connection with the Masons, established a hospital, the board of trustees being elected by both orders. A series of concerts were given for the benefit of the hospital, which were liberally patronized. The managers of the Tehama Theatre and Rowe's Olmypic Circus also gave benefits for the same object. The following card of thanks to Mr. and Mrs. Rowe and the opening address delivered on the night of the benefit, by its author, Francis N. McCron, were published in the Transcript:

To the Editors of the Transcript:

GENTLEMEN:—Will you have the kindness to give publication to our acknowledgment of the liberal and humane conduct of Mr. Rowe, as manifested in the benefit which he recently gave to the Masons' and Odd Fellows' Hospital. It is due to that gentlemen and the persons composing his company to say, that they all refused to deduct anything from the proceeds of the evening, for their own services; and the interest that this gentleman exhibited in making the house a good one gives him a strong claim upon the members of these orders for a liberal reciprocal patronage and support.

298 300

We return Mr. and Mrs. Rowe, and all the individuals composing the Olympic Circus, our sincere thanks for the benefit we have received, through the efficient proceeds of their house on the 16th inst. We also reiterate our thanks to the gentlemen of the two papers for gratuitous advertisements.

Truly, yours,

J. F. MORSE,

Secretary of Board of Trustees.

SACRAMENTO CITY, May 19th, 1850.

MR. MCCRON, Dear Sir:—The Board of Trustees of the Masons' and Odd Fellows' Hospital, having been highly gratified with the very appropriate and interesting address which you prepared and delivered with so much felicity at their recent benefit given them by Mr. and Mrs. Rowe, beg the favor of a copy of the same for publication.

Yours, truly,

J. F. MORSE,

Secretary of Board of Trustees.

JOHN F. MORSE, ESQ., Dear Sir:—Your kind note, in the name of the Board of Trustees of the Masonic and Odd Fellows' Hospital, requesting a copy of my poor address prepared and delivered by me at the Pacific Theatre, on the occasion of benefit in aid of the funds of above-named establishment, is truly flattering. Enclosed, I send a copy. And allow me to remain, my dear sir, yours respectfully,

FRANCIS N. MCCRON.

Sacramento City, May 18 th.

OPENING ADDRESS. Can the striped banner, or the stars of State, That on the brave, or on the vicious wait, Such emblems with such emphasis impart, As an insignium near the Mason's heart! Hail, Sacred Masonry! of source Divine, Unerring mistress of the faultless Line: Whose Plumb of Truth, with never-failing sway, Makes the joined parts of symmetry obey.

299 301

Hail to the craft, at whose serene command The gentle arts in glad obedience stand; Whose magic stroke bids fell confusion cease, And to the finished orders yield its place— Who calls creation from the womb of earth, And gives imperial cities glorious birth! To works of art her merits not confined, She regulates the morals, squares the mind— Corrects with care the tempest-working soul, And points the tide of passions where to roll. On Virtue's tablets marks each sacred rule, And forms her Lodge an universal school, Where Nature's mystic laws unfolded stand, And sense and science joined, go hand in hand. Oh, may her social rules instructive spread, Till Truth erects her long-neglected head— Till through deceitful night she darts her ray, And beams full glorious in the blaze of day— Till man by virtuous maxim learns to move, Till all the peopled world her laws approve, And the whole human race be bound in Brother's Love.

On the evening of April 30th, “Sutter Lodge, Ancient York Masons,” was organized by Deputy G. M. John A. Tutt, under a dispensation from the Grand Lodge of California. The lodge commenced with eighteen members; among whom were the following officers: E. J. Willis, W. M.; C. E. Thorn, S. W.; Addison Martin, J. W.

In addition to the Masons' and Odd Fellows' Hospital, there were several private hospitals in Sacramento City. Their location, the names of the proprietors and tariff of prices, are fully set forth in the following advertisements, published in the Transcript:

300 302

D R. DOW's Thomsonian Hospital and Botanic Medicine Store, on K st., between 2d and 3d. Dr. D. returns his sincere thanks to his Thomsonian friends for their very liberal support during the last season, and will endeavor to merit its continuance. Having enlarged his house, and added many beds, and as he attends on patients personally, he feels confident, after a practical experience of 23 years, he shall be able to give his patients general satisfaction. Having a large stock of medicine on hand, he is prepared to supply Physicians in the mines at wholesale, cheaper than any other house in California.

Price of admission to the hospital per day, is $5, $8, $10, $15, $20, and $25, according to trouble and expense. ap10 3m

Medical Partnership.

D OCTORS T. J. WHITE and C. D. CLEVELAND have associated themselves in the practice of Medicine, Surgery and Obstetrics, and have established and extensive Hospital, that will accommodate one hundred patients, on the corner of Ninth and L streets; where one of the parties can always be found, and the other at the counting room of Paul, White & Co.

Dr. White's personal attention will, at all times, be devoted to such cases as may be entrusted to his care. ap12-3m

S UTTER's FORT HOSPITAL, inside the Fort, by Drs. James S. Martin and B. R. Carman, having been thoroughly repaired, is now ready for the comfortable accommodation of patients. The salubrity of the location is evident to every one. The Hospital being in a large adobe building, it is exempt from that extreme heat which is incident to this climate during the summer. Terms moderate.

References—Dr. T. G. Chapman, Dr. J. B. Bridgman, Dr. S. McClure, Dr. S. P. Thomas, Dr. L. A. Birdsall, Dr. Deal, Dr. W. Bryarly. ap16 3m

Besides the foregoing, Drs. Morse and Stillman ran a hospital at the corner of K and Third Streets, but either professional etiquette or excessive modesty prevented them from advertising.

About the middle of May, the élite of Sacramento City were thrown into spasms by the following marriage in high life:

Married,

On Wednesday evening, the 15th inst., by the Rev. Mr. Moorhouse, WM. C. YOUNG, Esq., of this city, to Miss LUCY A. BARNES, daughter of Henry Barnes, Esq., of Philadelphia.

301 303

The following editorial notice of the event appeared in the Transcript of May 18th:

The most genteel affair that we have as yet witnessed in California, came off in this city night before last. We have heretofore been inclined to yield to the ball given at San Francisco, in the Hall of the California Guards, the precedence over all other fashionable assemblages; but the affair night before last stands pre-eminently the first. There was nothing like effort apparent, but all was ease and gentility. The bride was dressed in white satin, trimmed with flowers. Her dark hair was braided in the most elegant style, and a beautiful white veil added its airy grace to her person. The bridegroom was tastefully dressed in black, with white satin vest and neckerchief. The bridesmaid attracted scarcely less attention than the bride. A splendid specimen bracelet, a present from the bridegroom, graced her arm, and lace caught up with flowers added to the beauty of her rich satin dress. The ceremony was the most impressive of the kind that it has ever been our good fortune to witness. The parties were married according to the Episcopal ritual. They were impressed with the spirit of the solemn act, and every response was clear, distinct and heartfelt. May the Goddess of Happiness strew their pathway with flowers.

The beautiful cottage, which has been an enigma for many weeks to some of our citizens, is tastefully and elegantly furnished. The music was excellent, and the merry hours sped swiftly and silently away. Our sincerest wish is, that “—adown life's valley, hand in hand, With grateful change of grave and merry speech, Or song, their hearts unlocking each to each, They'll journey onward to the silent land!”

On the 22d of April, our cotemporary, the Placer Times, published by E. Gilbert & Co., and edited by Colonel Joseph E. Lawrence, commenced 302 304 its tri-weekly publication on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays, alternating with the Transcript; therefore, the citizens had a newspaper on every morning of the week, Sunday excepted. Colonel Joseph E. Lawrence, Mr. Jesse Giles's successor in the editorial management of the Times, was born on Long Island, but was a resident of New Orleans when the gold fever broke out in the States, and emigrated from that city to California, on mule back, via Mexico and Lower California.

303 305

ENCAMPMENT AT THE “EMBARCADERO,” SACRAMENTO, 1849.

304 305 307
CHAPTER XVIII.

Commercial advantages of Sacramento City—New buildings—First daily issue of the Transcript —The Placer Times follows suit—Sell my interest in the Transcript to Mr. G. C. Weld—Death of Mr. Weld—Tribute to his memory—Captain John A. Sutter—Sutter's Fort—Attack on the Fort by the Indians—They are repulsed—Hock Farm.

SACRAMENTO CITY is, at this time, in point of commercial advantages and population, the second city in California. Its population is variously estimated at from five to seven thousand, including floating population. A year ago it contained scarcely half a dozen tents and shanties, and a bridle-path led from the bank of the Sacramento River to Sutter's Fort.

Its growth during the past ten months has been almost magical. Here labor asks its own price, and its beck commands capital. No chartered institutions have monopolized the great avenues to wealth; no aristocracy, grown proud from the long possession of exclusive privileges, can obtain a foothold or assert supremacy. Circumstances have established a level, in which it is honorable to be, from which every one has an equal chance to rise, and where merit is the only sure guarantee of success. Neither business nor capital can oppress labor in California. Whenever its rights are invaded, the gulches and cañons that lead down the western slope of the Sierra Nevada will furnish a safe retreat, where 306 308 labor will obtain a rich reward, until its end is gained and the powers that oppress it yield to necessity and consent to do justice.

A general independence is observable in the people here, which is the inevitable result of their mutual relation. All classes are alike dependent upon each other, and obligations are mutually incurred. The rich men of to-day were adventurers yesterday. How natural, then, that they should respect labor, by which they have accomplished their success. Few can be found who have secured a competency by their own exertions who do not feel a conscious pride in acknowledging it. Labor will continue to hold the first position in California. Rich and exhaustless as are her natural resources, they have slumbered in the bowels of the earth since creation, and the world could never be benefited by them, without the judicious application of bone and muscle— the real capital of the world.

The consciousness once spread throughout the people, that they can depend upon themselves with safety, has forcibly acquainted them with the tremendous strength that lies latent among them, which increases in them still more the feeling of self-reliance. Their opinions are heard at the corners of the streets; they stand, in all their vigor, in public assemblages; and every tone of their voices speaks of independence, of calm determination, and of self-reliance. Those who have immigrated here are, in most cases, the cream of the populace. A manly, vigorous, intelligent race of freemen, capable of meeting any emergency, have seized upon the 307 309 hills and valleys, and California will, in less than five years' time, make herself felt among the nations of the world, either directly as a free land, or indirectly by her stern independence of feeling. Her voice will be respected, her decision will be looked for. She is the most practical of communities; and yet there is genius here. The pale-faced poet has stolen in upon us, and now and then, amid the din of building towns, his fine strain is heard. The painter, the musician, the artist—all are here. Stern life brings them down to the practical, but they are here, and will, in time, make themselves felt. Female society will be here soon, and then what more can be asked for? It is not strange, then, that this feeling of self-reliance should be so strong and broadcast in the land. With a country so rich in resources; so blest in a people to manage it, the future destiny of California is one of the sublimest subjects for contemplation that can be presented to the mind.

The rapidly-increasing commerce of Sacramento City presents the strongest reasons for making it a port of entry. It is situated at the head of ship-navigation on the Sacramento River. A few miles above the city a bar stretches across the river, and the water from that point up is so shoal as to be navigable only by steamboats and vessels of light draft. From Sacramento City down to the Bay of San Francisco, navigation is unobstructed. At the very lowest stages of the water last summer and fall, vessels came up to Sacramento drawing ten feet and a half of water. The bark Undine came up late in 308 310 August last drawing ten feet. The bark Ann Welsh, 390 tons, came up last October, drawing ten feet, and the bark Strafford, lying at the Levee as a prison-ship for the city, came up in September last, drawing ten feet and seven inches of water. The latter is 314 tons, custom-house measurement, and has a capacity of 5,000 barrels. Sacramento has an excellent Levee, alongside of which ships can lie with safety, and upon which they can discharge their cargoes without the expense of lightering. When the rivers are at their very lowest point, the water immediately alongside of Front Street and the Levee of the American River is from two and one-half to three fathoms deep. The river in front of the city is a quarter of a mile wide, giving ample room for the working of vessels. The Levee for a mile along Front Street is lined with vessels, and in some places they are two deep. They number upwards of twenty ships and barks, and thirty brigs. There are also a large number of schooners and other small craft. The distance from San Francisco is 104 miles. Vessels have come up from the bay in twenty-four hours, and the passage, at the longest, seldom exceeds four days. In a short time steam-tugs will ply on the river.

Sacramento is not only at the head of ship-navigation, but it is the natural metropolis for the rich and extensive mines of the north, south and middle forks, Yuba, Feather and Bear Rivers, Deer Creek, Cosumne, Dry Creek and the Upper Sacramento, together with all the dry-diggings contiguous. From this extensive section of the mining country, excellent 309 311

SACRAMENTO CITY, 1850

310 311 313 roads, in the dry season, converge to Sacramento City as the nearest and by far the greatest entrepot and depot. Along these roads hundreds of teams toil daily, supplying this vast mining region with provisions, clothing and other necessary articles of consumption. To supply the Sacramento market, which is thus continually drained, steamers and vessels of heavy burden arrive daily from San Francisco, in which merchandise, after having been discharged there, is reshipped to Sacramento City. Already have two hundred vessels cleared from the States for Sacramento City direct; and the advantages of this move are apparent from the fact that the cost of reshipment from San Francisco to Sacramento exceeds, to a considerable amount, that of shipment from New York to San Francisco.

While the work on the Levee was progressing, improvements were going on rapidly on Second and J Streets. The former street has undergone an almost complete metamorphosis. A number of large and well-constructed buildings are completed, or rapidly approaching that point—buildings, tasty and handsome in their outward appearance, and well calculated to ornament the city. Above J Street, there are four buildings of this description. A new building on the corner above the theatre, owned by Lee & Cornwall, designed for the postoffice, is nearly finished, and stands in agreeable contrast to the ruin of the old adobe opposite; showing how rapidly the customs of our own race are doing away with those of the former occupants of the soil. The Tehama Theatre needs only a 312 314 little outside polish to give it an imposing appearance. A little nearer J Street, two other two-story houses, also owned by Lee & Cornwall, have arisen within a few days. Crossing J Street, between the office of the Transcript and the fine brick building, corner of J and Second Streets, a splendid three-story structure, fronting forty-five feet on Second Street, is nearly completed. A few steps further down, on the opposite side of the street, two large two-story buildings will be completed in a few days. A little further down the street, is the cottage of Mr. William C. Young, nearly ready for occupancy.

J Street is also making rapid strides in improvements of various kinds. Through its whole length may be seen the most gratifying evidences of the energy and enterprise of its merchants. Besides the general improvements going on, in putting up new fronts, awnings and sidewalks, twelve new buildings are being constructed. Ten of these buildings are two and a half stories high, fronting from twenty to thirty-five feet on J Street, and running back from forty to sixty feet. It is now a settled fact, that the day for doing successful business in the open air or in canvas tents, has gone by, and consequently no one thinks of putting up a new building that is not of a character to confer credit on the city. One of the finest buildings in California, in respect to dimensions and architecture, is going up between Second and Third Streets, adjoining the Humboldt. It is forty feet front by one hundred and twenty-five feet deep, and two stories high. The whole lower story will constitute a single saloon, 313 315 through the centre of which, at short intervals, are massive pillars to support the ceiling. The entire second story is designed for a dancing hall, and it will surpass anything of the kind in California. K Street is also beginning to show signs of improvement. The proprietors of the Transcript have purchased a lot on this street, above Second, on which they are erecting a fire-proof brick building, two stories high, to which they will remove their office on the 1st of July.

On the first day of June, the Transcript began its daily publication, with the following editorial announcement:

Such is the size of Sacramento City, and such has become its importance as a commercial mart, that we feel it to be due to the public, due to our patrons, due to ourselves, as the conductors of a public enterprise, no longer to remain stationary, while all else around us is improving in a truly liberal and energetic manner. Newspapers are looked to as an index by which the importance of the localities they represent may be judged. Since we could no longer do justice to the public as chroniclers of passing events, we have decided to commence with this number the issue of the “ Daily Sacramento Transcript,” the first daily newspaper in California out of San Francisco. When we remember that it is not yet five months since the first daily paper was established in California, it will be seen that Sacramento City is not far behind, if she did start after the race was well begun elsewhere.

Ten days later, June 10th, the Transcript's cotemporary, the Placer Times, came out daily in a new typographical dress.

On the first day of July, I sold my interest in 314 316 the Transcript to Mr. Gilbert C. Weld, California correspondent of the New York Journal of Commerce; and on the same day the proprietors of that journal moved into their new fire-proof brick building on K Street above Second. Although having no pecuniary interest in the Transcript, I remained in charge of the business department of the paper until the latter part of August. Soon after purchasing my interest in the Transcript, Mr. Weld was prostrated by an attack of typhoid fever. He was for a few days an inmate of Drs. Morse & Stillman's hospital, but was subsequently removed to a private boarding-house, kept by a Mr. and Mrs. Aldrich, on K Street near Fifth, where, despite the best medical treatment that could be procured and careful nursing, he passed from earth to that bourn whence no traveler returns, on the evening of the 9th of August. Mr. Weld was a ready and graceful writer and a man of decided genius. Had he lived, he would have made a shining mark in California journalism. The Transcript of August 10th was published with inverted column-rules, draped in mourning, with the following obituary of the deceased, written by Mr. F. C. Ewer:

This morning a melancholy duty devolves upon us. Death has snatched from our midst one who, though newly come among us, had endeared himself to our hearts as a brother. It is the fairest flower of our garden that is plucked. A voice that we listened to for instruction, that cheered us through the trying hours, that joined with us in our mirth, that was full of wisdom and of love, and consolation and hope, is hushed 315 317 forever. Oh, how will kindred hearts, in a land that is far away, be wrung with anguish! By our side are the miniatures of his beautiful wife and three lovely children, whose hearts must soon feel the keen pangs known only to the widow and the orphan. A lovely daughter passed away but a few months since, and nearly broke the heart of the solitary father. Now he has gone to meet her. The intelligence of his bereavement cast a gloom over his silent moments which it was impossible to shake off. It was in one of these spells that his soul burst forth, as if by inspiration, in the following gush of feeling: “Thy last sweet letter, treasured as a prize, I daily read, and think of thee, dear Mary; Of all thy beauties, all thy virtues rare, Thy lustrous, bright blue eyes, thy golden tresses, Thy matchless features, and thy seraph voice, Thy tender, loving, sympathizing heart— I think of these, and thousand other graces, And then my stubborn will, prone to rebel, Curses the hand which laid thee low in death, And robbed thy father of his choicest blessing! But thou art gone! Why should I wish thee back? Thy sufferings are ended—thou art saved! Saved from the sins, the sufferings of earth, The woes, the griefs which rack thy father's heart; Freed from temptation, trouble, care and pain! Saved with a full salvation, rich and free; Boundless as God's benevolence can give, And lasting as the Giver. “O my soul! Cease thy rebellings! God has taken my child From ills to come. What seems to thee a curse Is blessing in disguise. Assuage thy grief, For He who caused the stroke ‘doeth all things well!’ “'tis done! The bitterness of woe is past— My grief is o'er—my tears shall cease to flow! And when my spirit sinks, in days to come,

316 318

And gloom, like winter, settles o'er my soul, They mem'ry, Mary, and the blessed thought That thou art happier far than him bereaved, Will light the gloom, dispel the gathering storm, And leave the fountain in my troubled breast As peaceful as the hill-girt lake in summer. Oh! I will live, my child, as one who hopes To meet thee in a brighter, better world!”

For versatility of talent, for brilliancy of thought, for serenity of disposition, for genial, social feeling, Mr. Weld was rarely equaled. He was a man who won upon the affections mysteriously, and he had not an acquaintance that was not his friend. The career before him was brilliant. His writings were graceful, filled with the play of lively fancy, and illumined by the light of a brilliant imagination. They had gained for him an enviable fame; but the withering blast of disease came o'er him, and the high anticipations of his friends were blighted. His death was as his life, serene and hopeful. He sank as sinks the star, silent, uncomplaining, beautiful. The hearts of his many friends will be touched with grief; the spirit of his beloved wife will be bowed under the heavy bereavement; the tears of his sweet little children will flow as they remember his parting kiss. But the star, though set, is shining still in the heavens. He was a devoted Christian, and unaffectedly pious. He breathed his last at about nine o'clock last evening, “at peace with God and the world.”

Captain John A. Sutter, the first white man who settled at New Helvetia, now Sacramento City, came overland from Jackson County, Missouri, in 1838-9. At that time the country was the abode of savages and wild beasts. Here, in this distant and secluded dependency of imbecile Mexico, he determined to rear the standard of American freedom. Such was the intention and feeling of this 317 319

SUTTER's FORT, 1849.

318 319 321 veteran soldier, when he conceived the idea of uniting this land of gold, the link between Asia and America, completing a commercial chain, now encompassing the whole world. The privations, hardships, mental anxiety and peril, necessarily encountered by Captain Sutter, during this long period, cannot be adequately depicted. Repeatedly the savage foe, under various pretexts, sought his life; and to good judgment, promptness and energy, does he owe his continued existence. At one time, while conversing with a friend in the fort, at a late hour of the night, a sudden noise burst upon their ears. The savages had entered the walls of the fort. The Captain and his friends were saved by a faithful dog, that suddenly sprang at the throats of the intruders and felled them, one by one, to the ground, until several were dangerously wounded and the rest fled. The wounded Indians confessed the plot.

Captain Sutter has vacated the fort at Sacramento, removed to Hock Farm and turned his attention to farming. This farm is situated on a high and beautiful plain, on the Feather River, about 8 miles below Yuba City, and comprises about six hundred acres, around which a deep ditch has been dug. Near the bank of the river, and close to the steamboat landing, stand the residence and outbuildings of Captain Sutter. Above and below these are large gardens, which, in their appearance, give the best possible evidence that California is not altogether the barren, unproductive region it is sometimes reported. The hardy pioneer who owns this 320 322 place has heard the unfavorable report, concerning his adopted home, and he is laboring to show all who are open to conviction that the earth, even in California, will reward the husbandman for his toil. He is sanguine of success, and has good reasons for his expectations. A large variety of vegetables are in a flourishing state, while of radishes, lettuce, onions and beets, he has enough and to spare. Nearly every steamboat that touches at Hock Farm brings away a choice variety of the products of his gardens to regale his friends at a distance. Back of these gardens are large fields of wheat, and to see them is all that is necessary to convince the beholder of the adaptation of the soil and climate to the production of this important article of consumption. Here, in one field, are eighty acres, and in the best grain sections of the States it would be difficult to find a more even and healthy-looking crop. Indian corn is also receiving attention here, but thus far its appearance is not very flattering. A space of about half an acre has been thickly planted with a choice variety of the grape, and the shoots appear from almost every scion, giving the most encouraging hopes of a successful cultivation of the vine.

321 323
CHAPTER XIX.

Grand entertainment given at Hock Farm by Captain Sutter—Full report of the affair—Letter from Thomas O. Larkin—Mr. Francis D. Clark and others resolve that one man is as good as another, provided he behaves himself—The glorious Fourth—Its first celebration in Sacramento City—“The Ancient Order of Bricks” and the Sons of Temperance publish their programmes of exercises—A jolly Fourth of July.

ON June 2d, Captain Sutter gave a grand entertainment at Hock Farm, to which about one hundred ladies and gentlemen from Sacramento City were invited. The following report of the affair appeared in the Transcript two days afterward:

Day before yesterday we found ourselves in the midst of a delightful party of about one hundred ladies and gentlemen on board of the Governor Dana. The steamer left the foot of K Street about half-past eight, A.M. Hundreds of spectators stood upon the Levee and on the neighboring vessels watching her departure. The band was playing on the upper deck; the ladies and gentlemen were collected under the awnings; her flags were flying; the sun was shining brighty, while at the same time a cool breeze was blowing; in short, everything augured a pleasant time. There were two things that could be depended upon: No rough weather was to be looked for, to discompose the placidity of a hundred breakfasts and cause “noise, confusion,” etc., and no fears were to be entertained that a rain-storm would come up to mar the pleasure of the occasion. The crowd on board were congenial to each other, and commenced forthwith to enjoy themselves by taking the 322 324 proper preparatory steps. The steamer darted swiftly up the river, leaving Sacramento behind, and carrying away from it a hundred happy hearts. The usual amusing small-talk on those highly important subjects, “charming day,” “exquisite weather,” etc., passed between certain of the ladies and gentlemen, leaving behind a strikingly apparent and a semi-serio-comic dearth of other matter, while the ladies looked at the opposite bank of the river in the interim, and the gentlemen stood with smiling countenances and glistening eyes all ready to listen to any subject that any one in the vicinity might suggest. Meanwhile others, the older and more sedate, were exhausting the weightier topics of “invigorating breezes” and the distant Sierra Nevada. Editors were asked the latest news; physicians answered learnedly interrogatories as to the state of health in the Sacramento Valley; the squatter question was discussed, and the wrongs suffered by California were not forgotten. The crowd soon become acquainted with each other, and these merry meetings warm the heart and draw the mind away from the sternness of business and expand the social feeling.

The Governor Dana is an excellent boat. The river was placid and she steamed swiftly up, now grazing one bank of the winding stream and now passing under the shade of the trees upon the other. Fremont was soon reached. The towns-people were down to see the landing. The American flag was flying from the pole on the Levee, and the music of the band was heard in the interval between the cheers which, as we touched the Levee, arose from those who had come out to welcome us to their town. After a reinforcement of ladies and gentlemen from Fremont had stepped on board, we left and touched at the opposite town of Vernon. Then striking from Sacramento into the Feather, we wended our rapid way to Nicholaus. Eberhardt was ready to receive the guests, who dined at his excellent hotel.

The next place we stopped at was Plumas. This town flourishes finely, having grown up since our last trip to Marysville, some two months ago.

After passing the steamers Martha Jane and Linda on their 323 325 way from Marysville to Sacramento, both of which we saluted, we reached Hock Farm, where the great pioneer of California stood upon the bank to receive us.

The arrival at this place was one of the most interesting parts of the trip. As we rounded into sight, our coming was announced by the blowing of the whistle. This was responded to by the firing of cannon on the bank of the river in front of Captain Sutter's house. Amid the echoes, our band struck up “Hail Columbia,” and as we neared, another report from the cannon was responded to by the crowd upon our deck, who raised nine hearty cheers for the inmates of Hock Farm. Captain Sutter and his family came forth from the house and down to the edge of the bank. One more report from the cannon and the plank was thrown to the shore, and the crowd poured out of the boat, as this was their place of destination. Captain Sutter, after recognizing his old acquaintances in his usual cordial manner, stepped back into the spacious inclosure in front of his house, where he received his friends and was introduced to his other guests.

The Indians who stood in crowds upon the bank were thunderstruck, not less with the whole scene than with the music from the band. Captain Sutter informed us that this was the first time they had heard anything of the kind. A long table was set in the shade in front of the house, loaded with the delicacies of the season. The company seated themselves under the direction of General Winn, the agent of Captain Sutter, who had previously been appointed by the company Master of Ceremonies. Captain Sutter and family took seats at the centre of the long table; the ladies sat at his right and left; General Winn sat at one end, and the rest of the company seated themselves promiscuously at the table. The time was passed very sociably and at last the regular toasts came off. The first was drunk by the whole company, standing, it was—

1. To Mrs. Sutter. Captain Sutter responded on behalf of his lady and gave—

2. A hearty welcome to the ladies and gentlemen at Hock Farm.

Music, “Hail Columbia.”

324 326

After a pleasant little talk by which the Master of Ceremonies brought the company to order, the following toasts, which have been handed to us by the Secretary, were then given:

3. By Mr. Stephens—Captain Sutter first, Captain Sutter last.

4. By Mr. Morrill—To the ladies of California! God bless them.

5. By Mr. Johnson—Miss Sutter.

6. By Mr. Fendrick—To the welfare of California and Hock Farm.

7. By Mr. Hamilton—John A. Sutter, the Pioneer of California.

8. By Mr. L. E. Boren—May the despots of all nations be dethroned and Republicanism be triumphant.

9. By Mr. Gore—Captain Sutter; his hospitality will always be imprinted on our hearts and never forgotten.

10. By Mr. W. E. Moody—Hock Farm, the remembrance of which will always cause our hearts to be warm.

11. By General Winn—The World, may it all be Republican.

Two toasts were then given—one to our host and hostess and the other to the Captain of the Governor Dana.

C. H. Pierson then rose and gave—To our absent mothers and fathers, wives and children.

Bachelors and maidens all arose and drank heartily to this toast.

Mr. Sweezy then gave a toast which he read from a piece of paper. We were unable to procure it subsequently. We regret this as it was an excellent one.

A gentleman then arose in behalf of Miss F., of Yuba City, and gave—May all proprietors be as agreeable toward the ladies as the proprietors of Veazie City.

General Winn then gave a toast, which, if the Secretary understood correctly, was—May the charity of Californians equal the charitable feelings of Captain Sutter.

17. By a lady—Captain Sutter: the man who taught the Digger Indians how to dig!

325 327

18. Mr. Wilder proposed Sacramento.

19. By Genral Winn—California, may it be settled by those who have daughters and sons willing to enjoy themselves in this country!

This was a toast which breathed the spirit of a true Californian, who has set the example of his precept.

20. His eldest daughter then gave—To absent friends!

21. Mr. Buscara of China—The friends of Captain Sutter!

22. By George W. Tyler—Captain Sutter and California—the fame of the former is world-wide and inseparably connected with the latter!

The following was given by a gentleman, name unknown—The Beauties of California, the wild flowers and the tame ladies.

Colonel Grant was called upon and gave—Brigadier-General Winn, a brave and good soldier; may he, in his march through life, never be in want of good pay and plenty of rations.

Mr. Rust gave—The reunion of the family of Captain Sutter.

Mrs. Winn gave, through her husband—To the ladies now on their way to California.

Mr. Latson gave—To Peter H. Burnett, the first American Governor of California.

After it had been moved and carried by acclamation, “that the thanks of the company be given to Captain Sutter for his princely hospitality,” the party adjourned. About half-past six the company took their leave, delighted with the hospitable treatment they had received; and, after giving nine cheers for Hock Farm, the boat pushed from the shore. The band struck up “Yankee Doodle,” and we wended our way back to Sacramento.

The distance up and back was about 130 miles. The speed of the Governor Dana can be judged somewhat by this.

We are confident that we echo the feelings of every one present when we say that it will be long before the pleasuretrip to Hock Farm will be effaced from our memories.

In the month of July the proprietors of the Transcript received the following letter from Mr. Thomas 326 328 O. Larkin, for many years American Consul at Monterey. Mr. Larkin's letter is copied in order to show how a California feels when he visits the States, after becoming fairly attached to the country of his adoption:

IRVING HOUSE, NEW YORK, May 27th, 1850.

MESSRS. FITCH, UPHAM & Co., Sacramento, California,

Gentlemen:—By favor of Mr. Cornwall, I am in possession of your Sacramento Transcript. There is no improvement in California that pleases me more than the issuing of another newspaper in that young and advancing State. I owe much to California, and my last breath shall be spent in that acknowledgment. That myself and wife might visit the land of our birth, after eighteen years' absence, caused me to leave that country; and the education of the first children born there of United States' parents—rather of United States mother* —causes us to remain here for the present.

There were many of foreign fathers and California mothers.

Please put me down on your list as a subscriber—direct to New York. I am, with much respect,

THOMAS O. LARKIN.

A strong prejudice against foreign miners existed throughout the northern and southern mines. Most Americans seemed to think that a foreigner had no rights which they were bound to respect. The inhabitants of Georgetown seemed to think differently, as will be seen by the following resolutions unanimously adopted at a public meeting, and signed by Francis D. Clark, Chairman, and others:

1. Resolved, That all men shall have permission to live in this camp, without being in any way molested.

327 329

2. Resolved, That the civil law shall be sustained, and that all those under the civil law shall be supported.

3. Resolved, That two hundred and fifty copies of these resolutions be printed in English and Spanish, and distributed through the various diggings.

FRANCIS D. CLARK, Chairman.

JOHN POWERS, E. MONTGOMERY,

WILLIAM TURNER, T. JEFFERSON WELLS,

WILLIAM B. MCELVOY, JOHN F. WORTH,

P. COURTRELL, A. TURNER,

Georgetown, Tuolumne County.

During the month of June, the citizens of Sacramento City became very patriotic and set about devising means to celebrate the “Glorious Fourth” in a becoming manner. The “Ancient and Honorable Order of Bricks” held a meeting and promulgated the following order of exercises:

At a meeting of the Ancient and Independent Order of “Bricks,” held at the City Hotel, in Sacramento City, June 12th, 1850, officers present: A. M. Winn, Brigadier-General, President; Frank Bates, Esq., Vice-President; George McKinstry and J. Bawden, Secretaries. The officers being seated, and the meeting organized, on motion,

1st. It was Resolved, That we will celebrate the 4th day of July next in an appropriate manner; and for this purpose Captain J. A. Sutter and all other “Bricks” be requested to attend.

2d. It was Resolved, That one gun for each State be fired from Sacramento City, Sutter and Sutter's Fort, at sunrise, and that the American flag be hoisted at each place.

3d. It was Resolved, That Captain Sutter and his old California friends be invited to attend, and head the procession.

4th. It was Resolved, That the celebration of the 4th of July should be public and free to all, and that the ladies be invited to attend.

328 330

5th. It was Resolved, That a Barbecue and Bear Dance be provided for the occasion.

6th It was Resolved, That forty managers be nominated to superintend the celebration of the 4th of July.

7th. It was Resolved, That the Ancient Order of Free Masons, the Order of Odd Fellows, the Municipal Authorities of San Francisco and Sacramento City, and the Military and Fire Companies, the Sons of Temperance, and other benevolent institutions of Sacramento City, be invited to attend.

8th. It was Resolved, That the Attorney-General be requested to deliver the oration, and that Geo. McKinstry, Esq., read the Declaration of Independence.

9th. It was Resolved, That the Governor and his staff, the Major-General and Brigadier-Generals and their staffs of this division, be also requested to attend.

10th. It was Resolved, That Captain Sutter be added to the list of Managers, and that his name be placed at the head of the list.

11th. It was Resolved, That the captains of vessels in port be requested to hoist their flags at sunrise, and that they and their crews be invited to attend the procession in a body.

And then, according to the resolutions adopted, the following gentlemen were appointed Managers: Captain J. A. Sutter, Hock Farm; His Excellency, P. H. Burnett, Governor; J. McDougall, Lt. Governor; Maj. Gen. T. J. Green, Brig. Gen. Eastland, Brig. Gen. A. M. Winn, Col. H. E. Robinson, J. P. Rodgers, Maj. J. S. Fowler, Maj. Murray Morrison, Maj. N. E. Latson, Maj. J. P. Hughes, Maj. W. Bryarley, Maj. T. Emory, Col. G. A. Grant, Capt. W. E. Shannon, Lt. A. H. Barber, Capt. Hammersley, Maj. Justus McKinstry, Maj. P. B. Reading, Maj. Snowden, Hon. S. C. Hastings, Hon. H. Bigelow, Hon. J. Bigler, Hon. E. O. Crosby, Dr. T. J. White, Mr. D. Strong, Mr. J. McDowell, Hon. J. L. Thomas, Hon. B. F. Washington, Hon. C. E. Lackland, Hon. E. J. Willis, Dr. Frank Bates, Mr. Geo. Mckinstry, Mr. Saml. Norris, Mr. J. W. Hastings, Mr. Wm. Dowlin, Mr. J. Bowden, Mr. Samuel Brannan, Hon. T. J. Henley, Mr. Barton Lee.

On motion, it was Resolved, That the Managers be 329 331 requested to meet at the City Hotel, on Wednesday next, the 19th inst., at seven P.M.

Resolved, That the Editors of the Placer Times and Sacramento Transcript be requested to publish these proceedings.

Signed: A. M. WINN, President.

FRANK BATES, Vice Pres.

Signed:

GEO. MCKINSTRY, JOSEPH BAWDEN, Secretaries.

For some unexplained reason, the adjourned meeting of the “Bricks” did not take place, and only two of the schemes for celebrating the Fourth of July were carried out—that of the Sons of Temperance and the celebration at Brighton, on the south bank of the American River, about five miles from Sacramento City. The first Fourth of July celebration in Sacramento City passed off in a blaze of glory, in accordance with the following programmes, and the participants were happy:

FOURTH OF JULY CELEBRATION,

AT THE PAVILION, BRIGHTON.

ORDER OF EXERCISES.

Under the direction of Major A. C. Latson, one gun for each state will be fired, commencing at sunrise.

On the arrival of the procession from Sacramento, the Declaration of Independence will be read by George McKinstry, Esq., and an oration by Col. E. J. C. Kewen; after which a splendid Dinner will be served at the Pavilion for as many as desire to partake. In the evening a splendid Ball Soiree and supper will be given in the spacious saloon.

The Pavilion is unsurpassed by any public house in this country, furnishing ample accommodations for all; private rooms for families, newly furnished, and the whole house fitted for the comfort of regular or transient visitors.

A band of music will be in attendance during the day and evening.

The ball soiree will be under the direction of the following gentlemen:

Honorary Managers Acting Managers.

Capt. J. A. Sutter, Col. E. J. C. Kewen,

Hon. Hardin Bigelow, F. C. Ewer, Esq.,

Gen. A. M. Winn, Dr. W. Bryarly,

Col. J. B. Starr, J. E. Lawrence, Esq.,

D. G. Whitney, Esq., Hon. C. C. Sackett,

Geo. McKinstry, “ J. Sherwood, Esq.,

R. D. Merrill, “ A. C. Monson,

Barker Burnell, “ Col. T. A. Warbass,

J. R. Hardenbergh, Esq., Maj. J. P. Hughes,

J. A Haines, Esq., Col. John S. Fowler,

J. W. Winans, “ Col. H. E. Robinson.

Omnibuses will run from Sacramento to the Pavilion at all hours of the day. jy2-3t

330 332

FOURTH OF JULY.

At a meeting of the Pacific Star Division No.1, of the Order of the Sons of Temperance, held at their Hall on J street, June 20th, 1850, it was unanimously agreed to celebrate the coming Anniversary of our Nation's Independence, as an “Order,” in connection with the citizens of Sacramento City generally.

PROGRAMME.

The exercises will open at 10, A.M., in a suitable room—due notice will be given hereafter.

1st. Music—a National Air.

2d. Reading the Declaration of Independence—Hon. E. J. Willis, reader.

3d. Music.

4th. Oration—J. C. Zabriskie, Esq., orator.

5th. Music—Hail Columbia.

At 12, M., the procession, under the direction of Benj. B. Nickerson, Esq., Marshal, and two assistants, will move to the river, and, after a short excursion thereon, will proceed to the house of Capt. Coon, where a collation will be served up expressly for the occasion. After the cloth is removed, there will be addresses, toasts, &c.

The Mayor, Common Council, and citizens generally, are respectfully invited to participate in the exercises.

A good band of music will be secured for the occasion.

By order of the COMMITTEE OF ARRANGEMENTS.

N.B. Col. Zabriskie has consented at this late hour to prepare an Oration for the occasion, in consequence of the decease of the Rev. Mr. Kalloch, who had previously been engaged. je25 tf

BRIGADE HEAD QUARTERS,

2d Brig. 1st Div. C. M.

Sacramento City, June 29th, 1850.

ORDERS NO. 2.

Our Nation's birthday will be celebrated throughout this Brigade on next Thursday, the 4th day of July.

One gun for each State will be fired.

From Sutter's Fort, by Maj. W. Bryarly.

“ Brighton, by Maj. A. C. Latson.

“ Norristown, by Capt. Sam'l Norris.

“ Sutter, by Maj. L. W. Hastings.

“ Sac. City, by Maj. John P. Rodgers.

The first gun will be fired at sunrise, when the flags at each of these points, as well as the flags of the shipping in port, will be hoisted. Music—“Hail Columbia.”

Immediately after each regular round and simultaneous with each gun at Sacramento City, the shipping will fire their guns.

A salute of thirteen guns will be fired for Capt. John A. Sutter, from Sutter's Fort, at 12 o'clock, under the superintendence of Maj. John S. Fowler.

The members of the staff, and those intending to take part in the morning celebration, will meet at the city Hotel at 8 o'clock, on the evening of the 3d of July.

Capt. Sutter, his old California friends, and the Brigadier General and staff will join the general procession at half past 11 o'clock.

By order of Brig. General A. M. WINN, jy2 JOHN S. FOWLER, Aid.

FOURTH OF JULY.

An Oration will be delivered and a cold collation served up at Washington, opposite Sacramento City, on the Fourth of July, at the spacious Hall of Capt. M. T. Coon.

The Pacific Star Division Sons of Temperance, No. 1, will be present. The citizens of Sacramento, Fremont, Marysville, Yuba City, Eliza and Nicholaus, are particularly invited. A steamer will leave Marysville at an early hour on the morning of the 4th, to arrive at Washington in time for the festivities of the day.

Programme: 1st. A salute of thirteen guns will be fired at sunrise, when the stars and stripes will be unfurled to the breeze.

2d. At 12 o'clock, M., a salute of thirteen guns, when the Sons of Temperance will embark from Sacramento City, and on their arrival will be escorted to the dining hall, by the citizens of Washington and visitors.

3d. The exercises will commence at 3 o'clock, P.M., with

1st. Music.

2d. Reading of the Declaration of Independence, by Dr. H. A. Weeks, of Fremont.

3d. Oration by Wm, M. Zabriskie, Esq.

4th. Music: Hail Columbia.

5th. Salute of thirteen guns at sunset.

The hall will be illuminated in the evening, and the whole will conclude with a ball. A band of music will be in attendance.

jy1-2t MAHLON T. COON.

331 333
CHAPTER XX.

Land-titles in Sacramento City—The squatters organize and mean business—Buildings erected by the squatters demolished—The squatters hold incendiary meetings and declare war to the knife—Assessor Woodland and Sheriff McKinney killed and Mayor Bigelow dangerously wounded—Burial of Assessor Woodland and Sheriff McKinney—The citizens organize military companies—Relief for the overland emigrants—Farewell to Sacramento City.

DURING the summer the squatter element portended trouble. The titles to real estate in Sacramento were somewhat mixed, and the squatters contended that they had as much right to the land as those holding titles under Sutter. A squatters' organization was formed, which held frequent meetings, and its members made violent and incendiary speeches, which, at first, were considered by the Mayor and more conservative citizens, as mere vaporings; but they soon learned that the squatters were in dead earnest and meant business.

On the 21st of June, four or five persons, holding property under Sutter's title, demolished a squatter's house erected on a lot belonging to one of the party. On the following day, twenty-five or thirty persons made a raid on certain other lots of land which had been seized and appropriated by the squatters. They repaired with the proper implements to the Levee just above J Street, partially 332 334 destroyed a house belonging to a squatter, and then shoved it over on to a large tent, also owned by a squatter, which was standing on the adjoining lot. The next lot visited had been seized by a squatter and inclosed by a fence, which was soon demolished. They next commenced the work of devastation upon a house belonging to a squatter, erected on another man's land, which they completely destroyed. Quite a number of citizens witnessed the demolition of the buildings, but no opposition was offered. As the party were about dispersing, one of the gentlemen stated that he owned two lots on J Street, over the slough, upon which the squatters had seized, and that he would like to gain possession of his property. The party promptly accompanied him to his lots, and found that they had been fenced in, but no houses had been erected. The fences were torn down and thrown into the street. The object of the party having been gained, they left for the town. Several of the squatters followed them, and attracted quite a crowd by their vociferous shouting. Much excitement existed in the city.

A few days afterward, a squatter who had taken possession of a lot in the outskirts of the city, was asked by a gentleman by what authority he expected to hold the property on which he had squatted.

“By preemption, of course,” was the reply.

“Look here,” said the gentleman, “what causes the ground here to be so uneven?”

“Why, it has been ploughed,” was the answer.

333 335

“Well,” continued the former, “don't you think the man who ploughed this land has got the start of you; is he not the oldest settler?”

When the squatter learned that Captain Sutter had actually settled on the land a number of years previously, and had all the title he required to make his property secure until another government assumed jurisdiction, the squatter concluded the preemption law would not reach his case, and immediately pulled up stakes and vamosed to the mines.

On the evening of the 1st of July, the squatters held a meeting at the Herkimer House, on Fourth Street. Dr. Robinson was appointed Chairman, and Mr. Milligan, Secretary. The Secretary stated the object of the meeting, which was to make arrangements to meet the suits against them, en masse; each man was now defending himself, on his own hook; the poor could ill afford it; the meeting had been called to form a contract, raise a requisite subscription, and employ the right kind of counsel. Mr. Milligan enforced his remarks with an eloquent appeal about the sacred right of the homestead—a right which every man was bound to protect in justice to himself, etc. After he had concluded, Mr. McClatchy offered the following resolution:

“Resolved, That a committee of two be appointed to confer with the counsel, and inquire as to the terms, etc.”

Mr. Edwards thought Mr. Milligan's remarks cast reflection upon the counsel who had already 334 336 been employed; he thought their counsel were the best, and they deserved great credit.

The resolution was amended by increasing the number from two to five.

Dr. Robinson said the Common Council had undertaken to legislate in regard to public property—property on which no action can be taken except by the Legislature. He would ask “has the Mayor any right to say what is my property and what is not?” He scouted the idea of landholders making land for themselves. He would disregard the Council, notwithstanding their assumed dignity; they were destitute of common sense, and should be regarded accordingly. It has been said, “answer a fool according to his folly;” he would say “treat a fool as a fool;” and if a man showed himself too low to be respected, don't respect him. For his part he looked down on the Council—way down—down so low that he could not see them. They were far out of sight of decent men. For his part, he meant to imitate the Mayor, meant to be a big squatter! It was just as easy to squat on one hundred and sixty acres as on one acre, and what he didn't need he would give to the poor squatters who are coming along by and by. It was as easy to defend a big piece as a small piece, and far better to take it themselves than to let the big landholders get it and sell it. After Dr. Robinson had concluded his remarks, the meeting adjourned to give way for a spontaneous meeting of the whole body of squatters, and for a short time they made things lively.

335 337

In about half an hour the meeting reorganized. Dr. Robinson was again placed in the chair, and Mr. Edwards was appointed Secretary. Mr. McClatchy requested the reading of an article from the Pacific News, which was frequently interrupted with applause and stamping of feet. It was now

“Resolved, that a committee of five be chosen, whose duty it shall be to confer with counsel on the subject of land-claims on the part of the settlers, and that all persons in the County of Sacramento who have taken, and may take up land-claims, and will share in the ex