Boundaries.]

Bounded north, by Pennsylvania; east, by Delaware State and the Atlantic Ocean; south and west, by Virginia.

Civil Division and Population.] This State is divided into nineteen counties, eleven of which are on the Western, and eight on the Eastern shore of Chesapeak bay. Counties.

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[Map]

0014 465 3O Western Shore Counties. No. Inhabitants Hartford 14,976 Baltimore 25,434 Do. Town & Precints 13,503 Ann Arundel 22,598 Frederick 30,791 Allegany 4,809 Washington 15,822 Montgomery 18,003 Prince George 21,344 Calvert 8,652 Charles 20,613 St. Mary's 15,544 Total 212,089 Eastern Shore Counties No. Inhabitants. Cecil 13,625 Kent 12,836 Queen Ann 15,463 Caroline 9,506 Talbot 13,084 Somerset 15,610 Dorchester 15,875 Worcester 11,640 Eastern Shore 107,639 Western Shore 212,089 Total in the State 319,728

Number of Slaves in the State 103,036.

Each of the countries sends four representatives to the house of delegates, besides which the city of Annapolis, and town of Baltimore, send each two.

Bays and Rivers.]

Chesapeak bay, as we have already hinted, divides this State into the eastern and western divisions. This bay, which is the largest in the United States, was particularly described in the general account of the United States. It affords many good fisheries and is remarkable for the excellence of its crabs, and also for a particular species of wild duck, called “canvas back.” In a commercial view, it is of immense advantage to the State; it receives a number of large rivers. From the eastern shore, in Maryland, among other smaller ones, it receives Pocomoke, Nantikoke, Choptank, Chester, and Elk rivers. From the north, the rapid Susquehannah; and from the west Patapsco, Severn, Patuxent, and Patomak, half of which is in Maryland, and half in Virginia. Except the Susquehannah and Patomak, there are small rivers. Patapsco river is but about thirty or forty yards wide at the ferry, just before it empties into the bason upon which the Baltimore stands; its source is in York county in Pennsylvania; its course is southwardly till it reaches Elkridge landing, about eight miles westward of Baltimore; it then turns eastward, in a broad bay-like stream, by Baltimore, which it leaves on the north, and passes into Chesapeake.

The entrance into Baltimore harbour, about a mile below Fell's Point, is hardly pistol shot across, and of course may be easily defended against naval force.

Severn is a short, inconsiderable river, passing by Annapolis, which it leaves to the south emptying, by a broad mouth, into the Chesapeak.

Patuxent is a larger river than the Patapsco; it rises in Ann Arundel county, and runs south-eastwardly, and then east into the bay, fifteen or twenty miles north of the mouth of Patomak. There are several small rivers, such as Wighcocomico, Eastern Branch, Monocasy, and Conegocheague, which empty into Patomak river from the Maryland side.

Face of the Country, Climate, Soil, and Productions..]

East of the blue ridge of mountains, which stretches across the western part of this State, the land, like that in all the southern States, is generally level and free of stones; and appears to have been made much in the same way; of course the soil must be similar, and the natural growth not remarkably different. The

0015 466

The ground is uniformly level and low in most of the counties on the eastern shore, and consequently covered in many places with stagnant water, except where it is intersected by numerous creeks. Here also are large tracts of marsh, which during the day, load the atmosphere with vapour, that falls in dew in the close of the summer and fall seasons, which are sickly. The spring and summer are most healthy.

The soil of the good land in Maryland is of such a nature and quality as to produce from twelve to sixteen bushels of wheat, or from twenty to thirty bushels of Indian corn per acre. Ten bushels of wheat, and fifteen bushels of corn per acre, may be the annual average crops in the State at large.

Wheat and tobacco are the staple commodities. Tobacco is generally cultivated in sets by negroes, in the following manner: The seed is sown in beds of fine mould, and transplanted the beginning of May; the plants are set at the distance of three or four feet from each other, and are hilled and kept continually free of weeds: when as many leaves have shot out as the soil will nourish to advantage, the top of the plant is broken off which prevents its growing higher: it is carefully kept clear of worms, and the suckers, which put out between the leaves, are taken off at proper times, till the plant arrives at perfection, which is in August: when the leaves turn of a brownish colour, and begin to be spotted, the plant is cut down and hung up to dry, after having sweat in heaps one night. When it can be handled without crumbling, which is always in moist weather, the leaves are stripped from the stalk, and tied in bundles, and packed for exportation in hogsheads containing 800 or 900 pounds. No suckers nor ground leaves are allowed to be merchantable. An industrious person may manage 6000 plants of tobacco, (which yield 1000lb.) and four acres of Indian corn.

In the interior country, on the uplands, considerable quantities of hemp and flax are raised. As long ago as 1751, in the month of October, no less than sixty waggons, loaded with flax-seed, came down to Baltimore from the back country.

Two articles are said to be peculiar to Maryland, viz. the genuine white wheat, which grows in Kent, Queen Ann's and Talbot counties, on the eastern shore, and which degenerates in other places, and the bright kite's foot tobacco, which is produced at Elkridge, on the Patuxent, on the western shore.

Among other kinds of timber is the oak, of several kinds, which is of a straight grain, and easily rives into staves, for exportation. The blank walnut is in demand for cabinets, tables, and other furniture. The apples of this State are large, but mealy; their peaches plenty and good: from these the inhabitants distil cyder, brandy, and peach brandy.

The forests abound with nuts of various kinds, which are collectively called mast; on this mast vast numbers of swine are fed, which run wild in the woods: these swine, when fatted are caught, killed, barrelled, and exported in great quantities. This traffic formerly was carried on to a very considerable extent; Douglas says, that “in the year 1733, which was a good masting year, one gentleman, a planter and merchant in Virginia, salted up 3000 barrels of pork.”

Population and Character.]

The population of this State is exhibited in the foregoing table: by that it appears, that the number of inhabitants in the State, including the negroes, is 319,728, which is nearly twenty-three for every square mile. The inhabitants, except in the populous towns, live on their plantations, often several miles distant from each other. To an inhabitant of the middle, and especially of the eastern States, which are thickly populated, they appear to live very retired and unsocial lives. The effects of this comparative solitude are visible in the countenances, as 0016 467 3O2 as well as in the manners and dress of many of the country people. You observe comparatively little of that cheerful sprightliness of look and action, which is the invariable and genuine offspring of social intercourse; nor do you find that attention paid to dress which is common, and which decency and propriety have rendered necessary among people who are liable to receive company almost everyday: unaccustomed, in a great measure, to frequent and friendly visits, they often suffer too much negligence in their dress. As the negroes perform all the manual labour, their masters are left to saunter away life in sloth, and too often in ignorance. These observations, however, must, in justice, be limited to the people in the country, and to those particularly whose poverty or parsimony prevents their spending a part of their time in a populous towns, or otherwise mingling with the world; and with these limitations, they will equally apply to all the southern States. The inhabitants of the populous towns, and those from the country who have intercourse with them, are, in their manners and customs, genteel and agreeable.

That pride which grows on slavery, and is habitual to those who, from their infancy, are taught to believe and to feel their superiority, is a visible characteristic of the inhabitants of Maryland; but with this characteristic we must not fail to connect that of hospitality to strangers, which is universal and obvious. Many of the women possess all the amiable, and many of the elegant accomplishments of their sex.

The inhabitants are made up of various nations of many different religious sentiments; a few general observations, therefore, of a characteristical kind will apply: it may be said, however, with great truth that they are in general very federal, and friends to good government. They owe little money as a State, and are willing and able to discharge their debts: their credit is very good; and although they have so great a proportion of slaves, yet a number of influential gentlemen have evinced their humanity and their disposition to abolish so disreputable a traffic, by forming themselves into a society for the abolition of negro slavery.

Chief Towns.]

Annapolis (city) is the capital of Maryland, and the wealthiest town of its size in America: it is situated at the mouth of Severn river, on a healthy spot, 30 miles south of Baltimore: it is a place of little note in the commercial world. The houses, about 260 in number, are generally large and elegant, indicative of great wealth: the number of inhabitants does not exceed 2000. The design of those who planned the city was to have the whole in the form of a circle, with the streets like radii, beginning at the center where the State House stands; and thence diverging in every direction. The principal part of the buildings are arranged agreeably to this aukward plan. The State House is an elegant building.

Baltimore has had the most rapid growth of any town on the continent, and is the fourth in size and the fifth in trade in the United States*. It lies in latitude 39° 21′, on the north side of Patapsco river, around what is called the Bason, in which the water, at common tides, is about five or six feet deep. Baltimore is divided into the town and Fell's point by a creek, over which are two bridges; but the houses extend, in a sparse situation, from one to the other. At Fell's point the water is deep enough for ships of burden; but small vessels only go up to the town. The situation of the town is low, and was formerly unhealthy; but the increase of houses, and, of course, of smoke, the tendency of which is to destroy or to dispel damp and unwholesome vapours, and the improvements that have been made, particularly that of paving the streets, have rendered 0017 468 rendered it tolerably healthy. The houses were numbered in 1787, and found to be 1955; about 1200 of which were in the town, and the rest at Fell's point: the present number is about 2300. The number of warehouses and stores is 164, and of churches nine, which belong to German Calvinists and Lutherans, Episcopalians, Presbyterians, Roman Catholics, Baptists, Methodists, Quakers, Nicolites, or New Quakers. The number of inhabitants in the town and precincts, according to the census of 1790, was 13,503. There are many very respectable families in Baltimore who live genteelly, are hospitable to strangers, and maintain a friendly and improving intercourse with each other; but the bulk of the inhabitants, recently collected from almost all quarters of the world, bent on the pursuit of wealth, varying in their habits, their manners and their religions, have yet their general character to-form.

* In point of size, towns in the United States may be ranked in this order—Philadelphia, New York, Boston, Baltimore. Charlestown, &c. In point of trace, New York, Philadelphia, Boston, Charlestown, Baltimore, &c.

Market-street is the principal street in the town, and runs nearly east and west a mile in length, parallel with the water: this is crossed by several other streets loading from the water, a number of which, particularly Calvert, South, and Gay-streets, are well built. North and east of the town the land rises and affords a fine prospect of the town and bay. Belvidera, the seat of Colonel Howard, exhibits a fine landscape—the town—the point—the shipping, both in the bason and at the Fell's point—the bay, as far as the eye can reach—rising ground on the right and left of the harbour—a grove of trees on the declivity at the right—a stream of water breaking over the rocks at the foot of the hill on the left—all conspire to complete the beauty and grandeur of the prospect.

Georgetown stands on the bank of the River Patomak, about 160 miles from its entrance into Chesapeak Bay. The ground on which it stands is very broken, being a cluster of little hills, which, though at present elevated considerably above the surface of the river, were, probably, at some former period overflowed, as at the depth of eight or ten feet below the surface marine shells have been found. Dr. Martin concludes an account of the climate and diseases of this town, in the following words:

“Upon the whole, Georgetown and its vicinity may be considered as a healthy part of America; and in any disputes about the propriety of the seat of the general government being fixed here, no objection can be urged against it on account of its diseases.”

Fredericktown is a fine flourishing inland town, of upwards of 300 houses, built principally of brick and stone, and mostly on one broad street: it is situated in a fertile country about four miles south of Catokton mountain, and is a place of considerable trade it has four places for public worship; one for Presbyterians, two for Dutch Lutherans and Calvinists, and one for Baptists; besides a public gaol and a brick markethouse.

Hagarstown is but little inferior to Fredericktown, and is situated in the beautiful and well-cultivated valley of Conegocheague, and carries on a considerable trade with the western country.

Ellton is situated near the head of Chesapeak bay, on a small river which bears the name of the town. It enjoys great advantages from the carrying trade between Baltimore and Philadelphia. The tides ebb and flow to this town.

The city of Washington, in the territory of Columbia, was ceded, by the States of Virginia and Maryland, to the United States, and by them established as the seat of their government, after the year 1800. This city, which is now building, stands at the junction of the rivers Patomak and the Eastern branches, latitude 38° 53′ north extending nearly four miles up each, and including a tract of territory, exceeded, in point of convenience, salubrity, and beauty, by none in America; for although the land in general appears level, yet, by gentle and gradual swellings, a variety of elegant prospects are produced, and a sufficient descent formed for conveying off 0018 469 off the water occasioned by rain. Within the limits of the city are a great number of excellent springs; and by digging wells, water of the best quality may readily be had. Besides, the never-failing streams, that now run through the territory, may also be collected for the use of the city. The waters of Reedy branch and of Tiber creek may be conveyed to the President's house. The source of Tiber creek is elevated about 236 feet above the level of the tide in said creek. The perpendicular height of the ground on which the capital is to stand, is 78 feet above the level of the tide in Tiber creek: the water of Tiber creek may, therefore, be conveyed to the capital, and, after watering that part of the city, may be destined to other useful purposes.

The Eastern branch is one of the safest and most commodious harbours in America, being sufficiently deep for the largest ships for about four miles above its mouth, while the channels lies close along the bank adjoining the city, and affords a large and convenient harbour. The Patomak, although only navigable for a small craft, for a considerable distance from its banks next to the city (excepting about half a mile above the junction of the rivers) will nevertheless afford a capacious summer harbour; as an immense number of ships may ride in the great channel, opposite to and below the city.

The situation of this metropolis is upon the great post road, equi-distant from the northern and southern extremities of the Union, and nearly so from the Atlantic and Pittsburg, upon the best navigation, and in the midst of a commercial territory, probably the richest, and commanding the most extensive internal resources of any in America. It has therefore many advantages to recommend it, as an eligible place for the permanent seat of the general government; and as it is likely to be speedily built, and otherwise improved, by the public-spirited enterprize of the people of United States, and even by foreigners, it may be expected to grow up with a degree of rapidity unparalleled in the annals of cities.

The plan of this city appears to contain some important improvements upon that of the best planned cities in the world, combining, in a remarkable degree, convenience, regularity, elegance of prospect, and a free circulation of air. The positions for the different public edifices, and for the several squares and areas of different shapes as they are laid down, were first determined on the most advantageous ground, commanding the most extensive prospects, and from their situation, susceptible of such improvements as either use or ornament may hereafter require. The Capitol will be situated on a most beautiful eminence, commanding a complete view of every part of the city, and of a considerable part of the country around. The President's house will stand on a rising ground, possessing a delightful water prospect, together with a commanding view of the Capitol, and the most material parts of the city. Lines, or avenues, of direct communication, have been devised to connect the most distant and important objects. These transverse avenues, or diagonal streets, are laid out on the most advantageous ground for prospect and convenience, and are calculated not only to produce a variety of charming prospects, but greatly to facilitate the communication throughout the city. North and south lines, intersected by other running due east and west, make the distribution of the city into streets, squares, &c. and those lines have been to combined as to meet at certain given points, with the divergent avenues, so as to form, on the spaces first determined, the different squares or areas. The grand avenues, and such streets as lead immediately to public places, are from 130 to 160 feet wide, and may be conveniently divided into footways, a walk planted with trees on each side, and a paved way for carriages. The other streets are from 90 to 110 feet wide.

In order to execute this plan, Mr. Ellicott drew a true meridional line by celestial observation, which passes through the area intended for the Capitol. This line he crossed 0019 470 crossed by another, running due east and west, which passes through the same area. These lines were accurately measured, and made the bases on which the whole plan was executed. He ran all the lines by a transit instrument, and determined the acute angles by actual measurements, leaving nothing to the uncertainty of the compass.

Mines and Manufactures.]

Mines of iron ore, of a superior quality, abound in many parts of the State. Furnaces for running this ore into pigs and hollow ware, and forges to refine pig iron into bars, are numerous, and worked to great extent and profit. This is the only manufacture of importance carried on in the State, except it be that of wheat into flour and curing tobacco.

Trade.]

The trade of Maryland is principally carried on from Baltimore, with the other States, with the West Indies, and with some parts of Europe. To these places they send annually about 30,000 hogsheads of tobacco, besides large quantities or wheat, flour, pig iron, lumber, and corn; beans, pork, and flax seed in smaller quantities; and receive in return, clothing for themselves and negroes, and other dry goods, wines, spirits, sugars, and other West India commodities. The balance is generally in their favour.

Dols. Cts. The total amount of exports from Baltimore from Oct. 1, 1789, to Sept. 30, 1790, was 2,027,777 64 Value of imports for the same time 1,945,899 55 Exports from Oct. 1, 1790, to Sept. 30, 1791 3,131,227 55

During the last mentioned period, the quantity of wheat exported was 205,571 bushels; Indian corn, 205,643 ditto; buck wheat, 4,286 ditto; peas, 10,619 ditto; besides 151,445 barrels of wheat flour; 4,325 ditto, Indian meal; 6,761 ditto, bread; and 3,104 kegs of crackers.

Religion.]

The Roman Catholics, who were the first settlers in Maryland, are the most numerous religious sect. Besides these, there are Protestant Episcopalians, English, Scotch, and Irish Presbyterians, German Calvinists, German Lutherans, Friends, Baptists, Methodists, Mennonists, Nicolites, or new Quakers; who all enjoy liberty of conscience.

Seminaries of Learning, &c.]

Washington academy, in Somerset county, was instituted by law in 1779: it was founded and is supported by voluntary subscriptions and private donations, and is authorized to receive gifts and legacies, and to hold 2000 acres of land. A supplement to the law, passed in 1784, increased the number of trustees from eleven to fifteen.

In 1782, a college was instituted at Chestertown, in Kent county, and was honoured with the name Washington College, after President Washington. It is under the management of 24 visitors or governors, with power to supply vacancies and hold estates, whose yearly value shall not exceed 6000l. current money. By a law enacted in 1787, a permanent fund was granted to this institution of 1250l. a year, currency, out of the monies arising from marriage licenses, fines, and forfeitures on the Eastern shore.

St. John's College was instituted in 1784. to have also 24 trustees, with power to keep up the succession by supplying vacancies, and to receive an annual income of 9000l. A permanent fund is assigned this college, of 1750l. a year, out of the monies arising from marriage licenses, ordinary licenses, fines and forfeitures, on the western shore. This college is to be at Annapolis, where a building is now prepared for it. Very liberal subscriptions were obtained towards founding and carrying on these seminaries. The two colleges constitute one university, by the name of “the University of Maryland,” whereof the governor of the State for the time being is chancellor, and the 0020 471 1 the principal of one of them, vice-chancellor, either by seniority or by election, as may hereafter be provided for by rule or by law. The chancellor is empowered to call a meeting of the trustees, or a representation of seven of each, and two of the members of the faculty of each, (the principal being one) which meeting is stiled, “The Convocation of the University of Maryland,” who are to frame the laws, preserve uniformity of manners and literature in the colleges, confer the higher degrees, determine appeals, &c.

The Roman Catholics have also erected a college at Georgetown, on Patomak River, for the promotion of general literature.

In 1785, the Methodists instituted a college at Abingdon, in Harford county, by the name of Cokesbury College, after Thomas Coke, and Francis Ashbury, bishops of the Methodist Episcopal Church. The college edifice is of brick, handsomely built, on a healthy spot, enjoying a fine air, and a very extensive prospect.

The students, who are to consist of the sons of travelling preachers, the sons of annual subscribers, the sons of the members of the Methodist society and orphans, are instructed in English, Latin, Greek, Logic, Rhetoric, History, Geography, Natural Philosophy and Astronomy; and when the finances of the college will admit, they are to be taught Hebrew, French, and German languages.

The college was erected and is supported wholly by subscription and voluntary donations.

The students have regular hours for rising, for prayers, for their meals, for study, and for recreation: they are all to be in bed precisely at nine o'clock. Their recreations, (for they are to be “indulged in nothing which the world calls play”) are gardening, walking, riding, and bathing, without doors; and within doors, the carpenters, joiners, cabinet-makers, or turner's business. Suitable provision is made for these several occupations, which are to be considered, not as matters of drudgery and constraint, but as pleasing and healthful recreations both for the body and mind. Another of their rules, which though new and singular, is favourable to the health and vigour of the body and mind, is, that the students shall not sleep on feather beds but on mattresses, and each one by himself. Particular attention is paid to the morals and religion of the students.

There are a few other literary institutions, of inferior note, in different parts of the State, and provisions is made for free schools in most of the counties; though some are entirely neglected, and very few carried on with any success; so that a great proportion of the lower class of people are ignorant; and there are not a few who cannot write their names. But the revolution, among other happy effects, has roused the spirit of education, which is fast spreading its salutary influences over this and the other southern States.

Natural Curiosities.]

There are several remarkable caves in the western part of this State, but particular and accurate descriptions of them have not been received.

Expenses of Government and Taxes.] The annual expenses of government are estimated at about 20,000l. currency. The revenue arises chiefly from taxes on real and personal property.

Constitution.]

The legislature is composed of two distinct branches, a Senate and House of Delegates, and stiled. The General Assembly of Maryland. The senators are elected in the following manner: On the first of September, every fifth year, the freemen choose two men in each county to be electors of the senate, and one elector for the city of Annapolis, and one for the town of Baltimore. These electors must have the qualifications necessary for county delegates; they meet at Annapolis, polis, 0021 472 or such other place as shall be appointed for convening the legislature, on the third Monday in September, every fifth year, and elect by ballot fifteen senators out of their own body, or from the people at large. Nine of these must be residents on the western shore, and fix on the eastern; they must be more than twenty-five years of age; must have resided in the State more than three years next preceding the election and have real and personal property above the value of a thousand pounds. The senate may originate any bills, except money bills, to which they can only give their assent or dissent. The senate choose their president by ballot. The house of delegates is composed of four members for each county, chosen annually the first Monday in October. The city of Annapolis and town of Baltimore send each two delegates. The qualifications of a delegate are, full age, one year's residence in the county where he is chosen, and real and personal property above the value of five hundred pounds. Both houses choose their own officers, and judge of the election of their members: a majority of each is a quorum. The election of senators and delegates is viva voce, and sheriffs the returning officers, except in Baltimore town, where the commissioners superintend the elections and make returns. The stated session of the legislature is on the first Monday in November. The qualifications of a freeman are full age, a freehold estate of fifty acres of land, and actual residence in the county where he offers to vote, property to the value of thirty pounds in any part of the State, and a year's residence in the county where he offers to vote.

On the second Monday in November, annually, a governor is appointed by the joint ballot of both houses, taken in each house respectively, and deposited in a conference room; where the boxes are examined by a joint committee of both houses, and the number of votes severally reported. The governor cannot continue in office longer than three years successively, nor be re-elected until the expiration of four years after he has been out of office. The qualifications for the chief magistrate are, twenty-five years of age, five years residence in the State next preceding the election, and real and personal estate above the value of five thousand pounds, one thousand of which must be freehold estate. On the second Tuesday of November, annually, the senators and delegates elect, by joint ballot, five able and discreet men, above twenty-five years of age, residents in the State three years next preceding the election, and possessing a freehold of lands and tenements above the value of a thousand pounds, to be a council for assisting the governor in the duties of his office. Senators, delegates, and members of council, whilst such, can hold no other office of profit, nor receive the profits of any office exercised by another. The governor with the advice of his council, appoints the chancellor, all judges and justices, the attorney-general, naval and militia officers, registers of the land office, surveyors, and all other civil officers, except constables, assessors, and overseers of the roads. A court of appeals is established for the final determination of all causes which may be brought from the general court* of admiralty, or of chancery.

* In some of the eastern States the legislature is called the General Court. In some of the southern, the General Court is the Supreme Judicial Court.

This constitution was established by a convention of delegates, at Annapolis, August 14, 1776.

History.]

Maryland was granted by king Charles I. to George Calvert,†, baron of Baltimore, in Ireland, June 20, 1632. The government of the province was, by charter, 0022 473 3P charter vested in the proprietary; but it appears, that he either never exercised these powers alone, or but for a short time; for we find, that in 1637 the freemen rejected a body of laws drawn up in England, and transmitted by his lordship, in order to be passed for the government of the province. In the place of these, they proposed forty-two bills to be enacted into laws, by the consent of the proprietary: these were, however, never enacted; at least they are not on record.

† George Calvert, lord Baltimore, the founder of Maryland, born in 1582, was educated at Oxford university, was knighted in 1617, by James I, and two years after was appointed one of the principal secretaries of state, which he discharged with great industry and fidelity, and was rewarded by the King with a pension of a thousand pounds a year. Having enjoyed this office about five years, he resigned it in 1614, freely owning to his Majesty, that he was become a Roman Catholic. This honest confession to affected the King, that he continued him privy counsellor during his reign, and in 1625, created him (by the name of Sir George Calvert, of Danbywiske in Yorkshire, knight) baron of Baltimore, in the county of Longford, in Ireland. While he was secretary, he obtained a patent of the province of Avalon in Newfoundland, where he built an house, and spent 25,000l. in advancing this new plantation; but finding it exposed to the French, was obliged at last to abandon it. Upon this he came over to Virginia, and having taken a view of the country returned to England, and obtained from Charles I, who was his friend, a patent, to him and his heirs, for Maryland*. He died in London, April 15, 1642. “Though he was a Roman Catholic, yet he kept himself sincere and disengaged from all interests; and was the only statesman that, being engaged to a decried party, managed his business, with that great respect for all sides, that all who knew him applauded him; and none who had any thing to do with him complained of him.” He was a man of great abilities and candour. Judge Popham, and Lord Baltimore, though agreed in the public design of foreign plantations, differed in the manner of managing them. The former was for extirpating the original inhabitants, the latter for converting them; the one sent the vicious and profligate, the other the sober and virtuous, to the plantations; one was for present profit, the other for reasonable expectation, wishing to have but few governors, and those not interested merchants, but disinterested gentlemen; granting liberties with great caution, and leaving every one to provide for himself by his own industry, and not out of a common stock.†

* See a copy of this patent in Hazard's Historical Collection, page 327.

† See Carey's Museum, Vol. 6, page 402.

The honourable Leonard Calvert, Esq. Lord Baltimore's brother, was the first governor, or lieutenant-general. In 1638 a law was passed, constituting the first regular House of Assembly, which was to consist of such representatives, called Burgesses, as should be elected pursuant to writs issued by the governor. These burgesses possessed all the powers of the persons electing them; but any other freemen, who did not assent to the election, might take their seats in person. Twelve burgesses or freemen, with the lieutenant-general and secretary, constituted the assembly or legislature. This assembly sat at St. Mary's, one of the southern counties, which was the first settled part of Maryland.

In 1642, it was enacted, that ten members of the assembly, of whom the governor and six burgesses were to be seven, should be a house; and if sickness should prevent that number from attending, the members present should make a house.

In 1644, one Ingle excited a rebellion, forced the governor to fly to Virginia for aid and protection, and seized the records and the great seal; the last of which, with most of the records of the province, were lost or destroyed. From this period, to the year 1647, when order was restored, the proceedings of the province are involved in obscurity.

In July, 1646, the House of Assembly, or more properly the burgesses, requested that they might be separated into two branches—the burgesses by themselves, with a negative upon bills. This was not granted by the lieutenant-general at that time; but in 1650, an act was passed dividing the assembly into two houses: the governor, secretary, and any one or more of the council, formed the Upper House; the delegates from the several hundreds, who now represent the freemen, formed the Lower House. At this time there were in the province but two counties, St. Mary's and the Isle of Kent, 0023 474 Kent, but Ann Arundel was added the same session. This was during the administration of Governor Stone.

In 1654, during Cromwell's usurpation in England, an act was passed, restraining the exercise of the Roman Catholic religion. This must have been procured by the mere terror of Cromwell's power, for the first and principal inhabitants were Catholics. Indeed the power of Cromwell was not established in Maryland without force and bloodshed. His friends and foes came to an open rupture, an engagement ensued, Governor Stone was taken prisoner, and condemned to be shot: this sentence, however, was not executed, but he was kept a long time in confinement.

In March 1658, Josiah Fendall, Esq. was appointed lieutenant-general of Maryland by commission from Oliver Cromwell: he dissolved the upper house and surrendered the powers of government into the hands of the delegates.

Upon the restoration in 1660, the honourable Philip Calvert, Esq. was appointed governor; the old form of government was revived; Fendall, and one Gerrard, a counsellor, were indicted, found guilty, and condemned to banishment, with the loss of their estates; but, upon petition, they were pardoned.

In 1689, the government was taken out of the hands of Lord Baltimore by the grand convention of England; and in 1692, Mr. Copley was appointed governor by commission from William and Mary.

In 1692, the Protestant religion was established by law.

In 1699, under the administration of Governor Blackiston, it was enacted, that Annapolis should be the seat of government.

In 1716, the government of this province was restored to the propriety, and continued in his hands till the late revolution, when, though a minor, his property in the lands was confiscated, and the government assumed by the freemen of the province, who formed the constitution now existing. At the close of the war, Henry Harford, Esq. the natural son and heir of Lord Baltimore, petitioned the legislature of Maryland for his estate, but his petition was not granted. Mr. Harford estimated his loss of quit-rents, valued at twenty-five years purchase, and including arrears, at £.259,488:5:0, dollars at 7f6—and the value of his manors and reserved lands at £.327,441 of the same money.

List of Governors, with the dates of their appointments.

Hon. Leonard Calvert, Esq. appointed governor,1637

Thomas Green, Esq.1647

William Stone, Esq.1649

The government remained in the hands of the parliament commissioners during the time of Oliver Cromwell's usurpation,1654

The commissioners, by certain articles of agreement then entered into, delivered up the government into the hands of Jonah Fendall, Esq. then governor1658

Hon. Phillip Calvert, made governor1660

Charles Calvert, Esq.1662

Upon the death of Cecilius, the government descended to Charles, Lord Baltimore, who came into the province1675

Thomas Notly, Esq. governor1678

Who continued till his Lordship returned a second time to the province in1681 King

0024 475 3P2

King William and Queen Mary took upon them the government, and appointed Lyonel Copley, Esq. governor1692

Francis Nicholson,Esq.1694

Upon the death of Queen Mary, the government was altogether in the hands of King William III.1696

Nathaniel Blackiston, Esq. governor1699

By the death of King William III. Queen Ann took upon her the government—and the same governor was continued1701–2

Thomas Finch, Esq. president1703

John Seymour, Esq. governor1704

Edward Lloyd, Esq. president1704

John Hart, Esq. governor1714

Upon the death of Queen Ann, King George I. took upon him the government—and the same governor was continued1715

The government was restored to Charles, Lord Baltimore, who issued a new commission to John Hart, Esq.1716

Charles Calvert, Esq. governor1720

Benedict Leonard Calvert, Esq. governor1727

The Proprietor came into the province in1733

And returned to England1734

Samuel Ogle, Esq. governor1737

Thomas Bladen, Esq. governor1742

Samuel Ogle, Esq. governor1747

By the death of Charles, Lord Baltimore, the province descended to his son Frederick.—Governor Ogle died the same year1751

Benjamin Tasker, Esq. president1751

Horatio Sharp, Esq. governor1753

Robert Eden, Esq. governor1769

Frederick, Lord Baron of Baltimore, died1771

Robert Eden, Esq. governor1773

Some of the governors since the revolution have been—

Thomas Johnson, Jun.William Small Wood,

William Paca,John Eager Howard,

Thomas Sim Lee.George Plater.

Boundaries.]

Bounded north, by Maryland, part of Pennsylvania, and Ohio river; west, by Kentucky; south, by North Carolina; and east, by the Atlantic ocean. Civil

Civil Divisions and Population.]

This State is divided into eighty-two counties, and by another division into parishes, which, with the number of inhabitants, according to the census of 1790, are mentioned in the following

Counties. Slaves. Total Inhabitants. West of the Blue Ridge. Ohio 281 5212 Monongalia 154 4768 Washington 450 5625 Montgomery, Wythe, Botetourt 2087 23752 Greenbriar, Kanawa 319 6015 Hampshire 454 7346 Berkley 2932 19713 Frederick 4250 19681 Shenandoah 512 10510 Rockingham 772 7449 Augusta 1222 10886 Rockbridge 682 6548 Between the Blue Ridge and the Tide Waters. Loudoun 4030 18962 Fauquier 6642 17892 Culpepper 8226 22105 Spotsylvania 5933 11252 Orange 4421 9921 Louisa 4573 8467 Goochland 4656 9053 Flavania 1466 3921 Albermarle 5579 12585 Amherst 5296 13703 Buckingham 4168 9779 Bedford 2754 10531 Henry 1551 8479 Pittsylvania 2979 11579 Halifax 5565 14722 Charlotte 4816 10078 Prince Edward 3986 8100 Cumberland 4434 8153 Powhatan 4325 6822 Amelia, Nottaway 11307 18097 Lunenburg 4332 8959 Mecklenburg 6762 14733 Brunswick 6776 12827 0026 477 3 Between James river and Carolina. Greensville 3620 6362 Dinwiddie 7334 13934 Chesterfield 7487 14214 Prince George 4519 8173 Surry 3097 6227 Sussex 5387 10554 Southampton 5993 12864 Isle of Wight 3867 9028 Nansemond 3817 9010 Norfolk 5345 14524 Princess Ann 3202 7793 Between James and York rivers. Henrico 5819 12000 Hanover 8223 14754 New Kent 3700 6239 Charles City 3141 5518 James City 2405 4070 Williamsburg, York 2760 5233 Warwick 990 1690 Elizabeth City 1876 3450 Between York and Rappahannoc rivers. Caroline 10292 17489 King William 5151 8128 King and Queen 5143 9377 Essex 5440 9122 Middlesex 2558 4140 Gloucester 7063 13498 Betw. Rappahannoc and Patomak rivers. Fairfax 4574 12320 Prince William 4704 11615 Stafford 4036 9588 King George 4157 7366 Richmond 3984 6985 Westmoreland 4425 7722 Northumberland 4460 9163 Lancaster 3236 5638 East Shore Accomac 4262 13959 Northampton 3244 6889

TABLE

The following are new counties:

Counties. Slaves. Total Inhabitants. Campbell 2488 7685 Franklin 1073 6842 Harrison 67 2080 Randolph 19 951 Hardy 369 7336 Pendleton 73 2452 Russell 190 3338 Total amount 292,627 454,983 The whole number of inhabitants 747,610

Kentucky,

0027 478

Kentucky, which till lately belonged to this State, contains 73,677 inhabitants, which added to 747,610, makes 821,287.

In the year 1781, a very inaccurate census was taken, several counties made no return: but supplying by conjecture the deficiencies, the population of Virginia was then computed at 567,614; the increase then is 258,673, and is as 9 to 13 in ten years.

The increase of slaves, during those ten years, has been less than it had been observed for a century before. The reason is, that about 30,000 slaves perished with the small-pox or camp fever, caught from the British army, or went off with them while Lord Cornwallis was roving over the State.

Climate.]

In an extensive country, it will be expected that the climate is not the same in all its parts. It is remarkable that, proceeding on the same parallel of latitude westerly, the climate becomes colder in like manner as when you proceed northwardly. This continues to be the case till you attain the summit of the Allegany, which is the highest land between the ocean and the Mississippi. From thence, descending in the same latitude to the Mississippi, the change reverses; and, if we may believe travellers, it becomes warmer there than it is in the same latitude on the sea side. Their testimony is strengthened by the vegetables and animals which subsist and multiply there naturally, and do not on the sea-coast. Thus catalpas grow spontaneously on the Mississippi, as far as the latitude of 37°, and reeds as far as 38°. Parroquets even winter on the Scioto, in the 39th degree of latitude.

The south-west winds, east of the mountains, are most predominant. Next to these, on the sea-coast, the north-east, and at the mountains, the north-west winds prevail. The difference between these winds is very great. The north-east is loaded with vapour, insomuch that the salt manufacturers have found that their chrystals would not shoot while that blows; it occasions a distressing chill, and a heaviness and depression of the spirits. The north-west is dry, cooling, elastic, and animating. The east and south-east breezes come on generally in the afternoon. They have advanced into the country very sensibly within the memory of people now living. Mr. Jefferson reckons the extremes of heat and cold to be 98° above, and 6° below 0, in Fahrenheit's thermometer.

That fluctuation between heat and cold, so destructive to fruit, prevails less in Virginia than in Pennsylvania, in the spring season; nor is the overflowing of the rivers in Virginia so extensive or so frequent at that season, as those of the New England States; because the snows in the former do not lie accumulating all winter, to be dissolved all at once in the spring, as they do sometimes in the latter. In Virginia, below the mountains, snow seldom lies more than a day or two, and seldom a week; and the large rivers seldom freeze over. This fluctuation of weather, however, is sufficient to render the winters and springs very unwholesome, as the inhabitants have to walk in almost perpetual slop.

The months of June and July, though often the hottest, are the most healthy in the year. The weather is then dry and less liable to change than in August and September, when the rain commences, and sudden variations take place.

On the sea coast, the land is low, generally within twelve feet of the level of the sea, intersected in all directions with salt creeks and rivers, the heads of which form swamps and marshes, and fenny ground, covered with water in wet seasons. The uncultivated lands are covered with large trees and thick underwood. The vicinity of the sea, and salt creeks and rivers, occasion a constant moisture and warmth of the atmosphere, so that although under the same latitude, 100 or 150 miles in the country, deep snows, and frozen rivers frequently happen, for a short season, yet here such occurrences currences 0028 479 2 are considered as phenomena; for these reasons, the trees are often in bloom as early as the last of February; from this period, however, till the end of April, the inhabitants are incommoded by cold rains, piercing winds, and sharp frosts, which subjects them to the inflammatory diseases, known here under the names of pleurisy and peripneumony.

Rivers and Canals.]

An inspection of the map of Virginia will give a better idea of the geography of its rivers, than any description in writing. Their navigation may be imperfectly noted.

Roanoke, so far as it lies within this State, is no where navigable, but for canoes, or light batteaux; and even for these, in such detached parcels as to have prevented the inhabitants from availing themselves of it at all.

James River, and its waters, afford navigation as follows: The whole of Elizabeth river, the lowest of those which run into James river, is a harbour, and would contain upwards of 300 ships. The channel is from 150 to 200 fathoms wide, and at common flood tide, affords eighteen feet water to Norfolk. The Strafford, a sixty-gun ship, went there, lightening herself to cross the bar at Sowell's Point. The Fier Rodrigue, pierced for sixty-four guns, and carrying fifty, went there without lightening. Craney island, at the mouth of this river, commands its channel tolerably well.

Nansemond River is navigable to Sleepy Hole, for vessels of 250 tons; to Suffolk, for those of 100 tons; and to Milner's, for those of twenty-five. Pagan Creek affords eight or ten feet water to Smithfield, which admits vessels of twenty tons. Chickahominy has at its mouth a bar, on which is only twelve feet water at common flood tide. Vessels passing that, may go eight miles up the river; those of ten feet draught may go four miles farther, and those of six tons burthen twenty miles farther.

Appamattox may be navigated as far as Broadways, by any vessel which has crossed Harrison's bar in James river; it keeps eight or nine feet water a mile or two higher up to Fisher's bar, and four feet on that and upwards to Petersburg, where all navigation ceases.

James River itself affords harbour for vessels of any size in Hampton Road, but not in safety through the whole winter; and there is navigable water for them as far as Mulberry island. A forty-gun ship goes to Jamestown, and, lightening herself, may pass to Harrison's bar, on which there is only fifteen feet water. Vessels of 250 tons may go to Warwick; those of 125 go to Rocket's, a mile below Richmond; from thence is about seven feet water to Richmond; and about the center of the town, four feet and a half, where the navigation is interrupted by falls, which in a course of six miles descend about 80 feet perpendicular: above these it is resumed in canoes and batteaux, and is prosecuted safely and advantageously to within ten miles of the Blue Ridge; and even through the Blue Ridge a ton weight has been brought; and the expense would not be great, when compared with its object, to open a tolerable navigation up Jackson's river and Carpenter's creek, to within twenty-five miles of Howard's creek of Green Briar, both of which have then water enough to float vessels into the Great Kanhaway. In some future state of population, it is possible that its navigation may also be made to interlock with that of Patomak, and through that to communicate by a short portage with the Ohio. It is to be noted, that this river is called in the maps James river, only to its confluence with the Rivanna; thence to the Blue Ridge it is called the Fluvanna; and thence to its source, Jackson's river. But in common speech it is called James river to its source.

The Rivanna, a branch of James river, is navigable for canoes and batteaux to its intersection with the south-west mountains, which is about twenty-two miles; and may 0029 480 may easily be opened to navigation through those mountains, to its fork above Charlottesville.

York River, at Yorktown, affords the best harbour in the State for vessels of the largest size. The river there narrows to the width of a mile, and is contained within very high banks, close under which the vessels may ride. It holds four fathom water at high tide for twenty-five miles above York to the mouth of Poropotank, where the river is a mile and a half wide, and the channel only seventy-five fathom, and passing under a high bank. At the confluence of Pamunkey and Mattapony, it is reduced to three fathom depth, which continues up Pamunkey to Cumberland, where the width is 100 yards, and up Mattapony to within two miles of Frazier's ferry, where it becomes two and a half fathom deep, and holds that about five miles. Pamunkey is then capable of navigation for loaded flats to Brockman's bridge, fifty miles above Hanovertown, and Mattapony to Downer's bridge, seventy miles above its mouth.

Piankatank, the little rivers making out of Mobjack Bay and those of the Eastern shore, receive only very small vessels, and these, can but enter them. Rappahannock affords four fathom water to Hobb's Hole, and two fathoms from thence to Fredericksburg, 110 miles.

Patomak is seven and a half miles wide at the mouth; four and a half at Nomony Bay; three at Aquia; one and a half at Hallooing Point; one and a quarter at Alexandria. Its foundings are seven fathom at the mouth; five at St. George's Island; four and a half at Lower Matchodic; three at Swan's Point, and thence up to Alexandria; thence ten feet water to the falls, which are thirteen miles above Alexandria. The tides in the Patomak are not very strong, excepting after great rains, when the ebb is pretty strong; then there is little or no flood; and there is never more than four or five hours flood, except with long and strong south winds.

The distance from the Capes of Virginia to the termination of the tide water in this river is above 300 miles; and navigable for ships the greatest burthen, nearly that distance. From thence this river, obstructed by four considerable falls, extends through a vast tract of inhabited country towards its source. These falls are, 1st, The Little Falls, three miles above tide water, in which distance there is a fall of thirty-six feet: 2d, The Great Falls, six miles higher, where is a fall of seventy-six feet in one mile and a quarter; 3d, The Seneca Falls, six miles above the former, which form short, irregular rapids, with a fall of about ten feet; and 4th, The Sheuandoah Falls, sixty miles from the Seneca, where is a fall of about thirty feet in three miles; from which last, Fort Cumberland is about 120 miles distant. The obstructions which are opposed to the navigation above and between these falls are of little consequence.

Early in the year 1785, the legislatures of Virginia and Maryland passed acts to encourage opening the navigation of this river. It was estimated that the expense of the works would amount to 50,000l. sterling, and ten years were allowed for their completion. The president and directors of the incorporated company have since supposed that 45,000l. would be adequate to the operation, and that it will be accomplished in a shorter period than was stipulated. Their calculations are founded on the progress already made, and the summary mode established for enforcing the collection of the dividends, as the money may become necessary.

According to the opinion of the president and directors, locks* will be necessary at no more than two places, the Great and the Little Falls; six at the former, and three at 0030 481 3Q at the latter. At the latter nothing had been attempted in 1789. At the Great Falls, where the difficulties were judged by many to be insurmountable, the work is nearly or quite completed. At the Seneca Falls the laborious part of the business is entirely accomplished, by removing the obstacles and making the descent more gradual; so that nothing remained in 1789 but to finish the channel for this gentle current in a workmanlike manner. At the Shenandoah, where the river breaks through the Blue ridge, though a prodigious quantity of labour has been bestowed, yet the passage is not yet perfected. Such proficiency has been made, however, that an avenue for a partial navigation has been opened from Fort Cumberland to the Great Falls, which are within nine miles of a shipping port.*

* A lock is a bason placed lengthwise in a river or canal, lined with walls of masonry on each side, and terminated by two gates, placed where there is a cascade or natural fall of the country; and so constructed, that the bason being filled with water by an upper sluice, to the level of the waters above, a vessel may ascend through the upper gate; or the water in the lock being reduced to the level of the water at the bottom of the cascade, the vessel may ascend through the lower gate; for when the waters are brought to a level on either side, the gate on that side may be easily opened. But as the lower gate is strained in proportion to the depth of water it supports, when the perpendicular height of the water exceeds twelve or thirteen feet, more locks than one become necessary. Thus, if the fall be seventeen feet, two locks are required, each having eight feet fall; and if the fall be twenty-six feet, three locks are necessary, each having eight feet eight inches fall. The side walls of the locks ought to be very strong. Where the natural foundation is bad, they should be founded on piles, and platforms of wood: they should likewise slope outwards, in order to resist the pressure of the earth behind.

* The author has been disappointed in receiving an account of the present state of the Virginia canals and improvements.

As soon as the proprietors shall begin to receive toll, they will doubtless find an ample compensation for their pecuniary advances. By an estimate made many years ago, it was calculated that the amount, in the commencement, would be at the rate of 11,875l. Virginia currency, per annum. The toll must every year become more productive; as the quantity of articles for exportation will be augmented in a rapid ratio, with the increase of population and the extension of settlements. In the mean time the effect will be immediately seen in the agriculture of the interior country; for the multitude of horses now employed in carrying produce to market, will then be used altogether for the purposes of tillage. But, in order to form just conceptions of the utility of this inland navigation, it would be requisite to notice the long rivers which empty into the Patomak, and even to take a survey of the geographical position of the western waters.

The Shenandoah, which empties just above the Blue mountains, may, according to report, be made navigable, at a trifling expence, more than 150 miles from its confluence with the Patomak; and will receive and bear the produce of the richest part of the State. Commissioners have been appointed to form a plan, and to estimate the expence of opening the channel of this river, if on examination it should be found practicable. The South Branch, still higher, is navigable in its actual condition nearly or quite 100 miles, through exceedingly fertile lands. Between these on the Virginia side are several smaller rivers, that may with ease be improved, so as to afford a passage for boats. On the Maryland side are the Monocasy, Antietam, and Conegocheague, some of which pass through the State of Maryland, and have their sources in Pennsylvania.

From Fort Cumberland, (or Wills' Creek) one or two good waggon roads may be had (where the distance is said by some to be thirty-five and by others forty miles) to the Youghiogany, a large and navigable branch of the Monongahela, which last forms a junction with the Allegany at Fort Pitt. But,

0031 482 O

But, by passing farther up the Patomak than Fort Cumberland, which may very easily be done, a portage by a good waggon road to Cheat river, another large branch of the Monongahela, can be obtained through a space which some say is twenty, others twenty-two, others twenty five, and none more than thirty miles.

When we have arrived at either of these western waters, the navigation through that immense region is opened by a thousand directions, and to the lakes in several places by portages of less than ten miles; and by one portage, it is asserted, of not more than a single mile.

Notwithstanding it was sneeringly said by some foreigners, at the beginning of this undertaking, that the Americans are fond of engaging in splendid projects which they could never accomplish; yet it is hoped the success of this first essay towards improving their inland navigation, will, in some degree, rescue them from the reproach intended to have been fixed upon their national character, by the unmerited imputation.

TheGreat Kanhawa is a river of considerable note for the fertility of its land, and still more, as leading towards the head waters of James river. Nevertheless, it is doubtful whether its great and numerous rapids will admit a navigation, but at an expence to which it will require ages to render its inhabitants equal. The great obstacles begin at what are called the Great Falls, ninety miles above the mouth, below which are only five or six rapids, and these passable, with some difficulty, even at low water. From the falls to the mouth of Green Briar is 100 miles, and thence to the lead mines 120. It is 280 yards wide at its mouth.

The Little Kanhawa is 150 yards wide at the mouth. It yields a navigation of ten miles only. Perhaps its northern branch, called Junius' Creek, which interlocks with the western waters of Monongahela, may one day admit a shorter passage from the latter into the Ohio.

Mountains.]

It is worthy notice, that the mountains are not solitary and scattered confusedly over the face of the country; but commence at about 150 miles from the sea coast, are disposed in ridges one behind another, running nearly parallel with the sea coast, though rather approaching it as they advance north-eastwardly. To the south-west, as the tract of country between the sea coast and the Mississippi becomes narrower, the mountains converge into a single ridge, which, as it approaches the Gulph of Mexico, subsides into plain country, and gives rise to some of the waters of that gulph, and particularly to a river called Apalachicola, probably from the Apalachies, an Indian nation formerly residing on it. Hence the mountains giving rise to that river, and seen from its various parts, were called the Apalachian Mountains, being in fact the end or termination only of the great ridges passing through the Continent. European geographers, however, extended the same northwardly as far as the mountains extended; some giving it after their separation into different ridges, to the Blue Ridge, others to the North Mountains, others to the Allegany, others to the Laurel Ridge, as may be seen in their different maps. But none of these ridges were ever known by that name to the inhabitants, either native or emigrant, but as they saw them so called in European maps. In the same direction generally are the veins of lime-stone, coal, and other minerals hitherto discovered; and so range the falls of the great rivers. But the courses of the great rivers are at right angles with these. James and Patomak penetrate through all the ridges of mountains eastward of the Allegany, that is broken by no watercourse. It is in fact the spine of the country between the Atlantic on one side, and the Mississippi and St. Lawrence on the other. The passage of 0032 483 3Q2 the Patomak through the Blue ridge is perhaps one of the most stupendous scenes in nature. You stand on a very high point of land. On your right comes up the Shenandoah, having ranged along the foot of the mountain an hundred miles to seek a vent; on your left approaches the Patomak, in quest of a passage also: in the moment of their junction they rush together against the mountain, rend it asunder, and pass off to the sea. The first glance of this scene hurries our senses into the opinion, that this earth has been created in time, that the mountains were formed first, that the rivers began to flow afterwards; that in this place particularly they have been dammed up by the Blue ridge of mountains, and have formed an ocean which filled the whole valley; that continuing to rise they have at length broken over at this spot, and have torn the mountain down from its summit to its base. The piles of rock on each hand, but particularly on the Shenandoah, the evident marks of their disruption and avulsion from their beds by the most powerful agents of nature, corroborate the impression: but the distant finishing which nature has given to the picture, is of a very different character. It is a true contrast to the fore ground; it is as placid and delightful, as that is wild and tremendous. For the mountain, being cloven asunder, presents to the eye, through the cleft, a small catch of smooth blue horizon, at an infinite distance, in the plain country, inviting you, as it were, from the riot and tumult roaring around, to pass through the breach and participate of the calm below. Here the eye ultimately composes itself; and that way too, the road actually leads. You cross the Patomak above the junction, pass along its side through the base of the mountain for three miles, its terrible precipices hanging in fragments over you, and within about twenty miles reach of Fredericktown and the fine country round that. This scene is worth a voyage across the Atlantic. Yet here, as in the neighbourhood of the Natural Bridge, are people who have passed their lives within half a dozen miles, and have never been to survey these monuments of a war between rivers and mountains, which must have shaken the earth itself to its center. The height of the mountains has not yet been estimated with any degree of exactness. The Allegany being the great ridge which divides the waters of the Atlantic from those of the Mississippi, its summit is doubtless more elevated above the ocean than that of any other mountain. But its relative height, compared with the base on which it stands, is not so great as that of some others, the country rising behind the successive ridges like the steps of stairs. The mountains of the Blue ridge, and of these the peaks of Otter are thought to be of a greater height measured from their base than any others in Virginia, and perhaps in North America. From data, which may be found a tolerable conjecture, we suppose the highest peak to be about 4000 feet perpendicular, which is not a fifth part of the height of the mountains of South America, nor one third of the height which would be necessary in our latitude to preserve ice in the open air unmelted through the year. The ridge of mountains next beyond the Blue ridge, called the North Mountains, is of the greatest extent; for which reason they are named by the Indians the Endless Mountains.

The Ouasioto mountains are fifty or sixty miles wide at the Gap. These mountains abound in coal, lime, and free-stone; the summits of them are generally covered with a good soil, and a variety of timber; and the low, intervale lands are rich and remarkably well watered.

Face of the Country, Soil, Productions, &c.]

The whole country below the mountains, which are about 150, some say 200 miles from the sea, is level, and seems from various appearances to have been once washed by the sea. The land between York and James rivers is very level, and its surface about forty feet above high water mark. 0033 484 mark. It appears, from observation, to have arisen to its present height, at different periods far distant from each other, and that at these periods it was washed by the fear, for near Yorktown, where the banks are perpendicular, you first see a stratum, intermixed with small shells resembling a mixture of clay and sand, and about five feet thick; on this lies horizontally, small white shells, cockle, clam, &c. an inch or two thick; then a body of earth similar to that first mentioned, eighteen inches thick; then a layer of shells and another body of earth; on this a layer of three feet of white shells mixed with sand, on which lay a body of oyster shells six feet thick, which were covered with earth to the surface. The oyster shells are so united by a very strong cement that they fall, only when undermined, and then in large bodies, from one to twenty tons weight. They have the appearance of large rocks on the shore.*

* General Lincoln.

These appearances continue in a greater or less degree in the banks of James river, one hundred miles from the sea; the appearances then vary, and the banks are filled with sharks' teeth, bones of large and small fish petrified, and many other petrifactions, some resembling the bones of land and other animals, other vegetable substances. These appearances are not confined to the river banks, but are seen in various places, in gullies at considerable distances from the rivers. In one part of the State for seventy miles in length, by sinking a well, you apparently come to the bottom of what was formerly a watercourse. And even as high up as Botetourt county, among the Allegany mountains, there is a tract of land, judged to be 40,000 acres, surrounded on every side by mountains, which is entirely covered with oyster and cockle shells, and, from some gullies, they appear to be of considerable depth. A plantation at Day's Point, on James river, of as many as 1000 acres, appears at a distance as if covered with snow, but on examination the white appearance is found to arise from a bed of clam shells, which by repeated plowing have become fine and mixed with earth.

The soil below the mountains seems to have acquired a character for goodness which it by no means deserves. Though not rich it is well suited to the growth of tobacco and Indian corn, and parts of it, for wheat. Good crops of cotton, flax, and hemp are also raised; and in some counties they have plenty of cyder, and exquisite brandy, distilled from peaches, which grow in great abundance upon the numerous rivers of the Chesapeak.

The planters, before the war, paid their principal attention to the culture of tobacco, of which there used to be exported, generally, 55,000 hogsheads a year. Since the revolution they are turning their attention more to the cultivation of wheat, Indian corn, barley, flax, and hemp. It is expected that this State will add the article of rice to the lift of her exports; as it is supposed a large body of swamp, in the easternmost counties, is capable of producing it.

Horned or neat cattle are bred in great numbers in the western counties of Virginia, as well as in the States south of it, where they have an extensive range, and mild winters, without any permanent snows.—They run at large, are not housed, and multiply very fast.—“In the lower parts of the State a disease prevails among the neat cattle which proves fatal to all that are not bred there. The oxen, from the more Northern States, which were employed at the siege of Yorktown, in October 1781, almost all died, sometimes forty of them in a night, and often suddenly dropped down dead in the roads. It is said that the seeds of this disease were brought from the Havannah to South Carolina or Georgia in some hides, and that the disease has progressed northward to Virginia. Lord Dunmore imported some cattle from Rhode Island, and kept them confined in a small pasture, near his seat, where no cattle had been for some 0034 485 some years, and where they could not intermix with other cattle, and yet they soon died.*

* General Lincoln.

The gentlemen, being fond of pleasure, have taken much pains to raise a good breed of horses, and have succeeded in it beyond any of the States. They will give 1000l. sterling for a good seed horse. Horse-racing has had a great tendency to encourage the breeding of good horses, as it affords an opportunity of putting them to the trial of their speed. They are more elegant, and will perform more service, than the horses of the northern States.

An intelligent gentleman, an inhabitant of Virginia, informs, that caves among the mountains have lately been discovered, which yield salt petre in such abundance, that he judges 500,000 pounds of it might be collected from them annually.

This State does not abound with good fish. Sturgeon, shad, and herring are the most plenty; pearch, sheepshead, drum, rock fish, and trout are common; besides these they have oysters in abundance, crabs, shrimps, &c.

Cascades, Curiosities, and Caverns.]

The only remarkable cascade in this State is that of Falling Spring, in Augusta. It is a water of James river, where it is called Jackson's river, rising in the warm spring mountains about twenty miles south-west of the warm spring, and flowing into that valley. About three quarters of a mile from its source, it falls over a rock two hundred feet into the valley below. The sheet of water is broken in its breadth by the rock in two or three places, but not at all in its height. Between the sheet and rock, at the bottom, you may walk across dry. This cataract will bear no comparison with that of Niagara, as to the quantity of water composing it; the sheet being only twelve or fifteen feet wide above, and somewhat more spread below; but it is half as high again.

In the lime-stone country, there are many caverns of very considerable extent. The most noted is called Madison's cave, and is on the north side of the Blue ridge, near the intersection of the Rockingham and Augusta line with the south fork of the southern river of Shenandoah. It is in a hill of about two hundred feet perpendicular height, the ascent of which, on one side, is so steep that you may pitch a biscuit from its summit into the river which washes its base. The entrance of the cave is, in this side, about two thirds of the way up. It extends into the earth about three hundred feet, branching into subordinate caverns, sometimes ascending a little, but more generally descending, and at length terminates in two different places, at basons of water of unknown extent, and which appear to be nearly on a level with the water of the river. It is probably one of the many reservoirs with which the interior parts of the earth are supposed to abound, and which yield supplies to the fountains of water, distinguished from others only by its being accessible. The vault of this cave is of solid lime-stone, from twenty to forty or fifty feet high, through which water is continually exudating. This, trickling down the sides of the cave, has incrusted them over in the form of elegant drapery; and dripping from the top of the vault, generates on that, and on the base below, stalactites of a conical form, some of which have met and formed massive columns.

Another of these caves is near the North Mountain, in the county of Frederick. The entrance into this is on the top of an extensive ridge. You descend thirty or forty feet, as into a well, from whence the cave then extends, nearly horizontally, four hundred feet into the earth, preserving a breadth of from twenty to fifty feet, and a height of from five to twelve feet. After entering this cave a few feet, the mercury, which in the open air was at 50°, rose to 57° of Fahrenheit's thermometer. At

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At the Panther gap, in the ridge which divides the waters of the Cow and the Calf pasture, is what is called the Blowing Cave. It is in the side of a hill, is of about one hundred feet diameter, and emits constantly a current of air of such force, as to keep the weeds prostrate to the distance of twenty yards before it. This current is strongest in dry frosty weather, and in long spells of rain weakest. Regular inspirations and expirations of air, by caverns and fissures, have been probably enough accounted for, by supposing them combined with intermitting fountains, as they must of course inhale the air while the reservoirs are emptying themselves, and again emit it while they are filling. But a constant issue of air, only varying in its force as the weather is drier or damper, will require a new hypothesis. There is another blowing cave in the Cumberland mountain, about a mile from where it crosses the Carolina line. All we know of this is, that it is not constant, and that a fountain of water issues from it.

The Natural Bridge is the most sublime of nature's works. It is on the ascent of a hill, which seems to have been cloven through its length by some great convulsion. The fissure, just at the bridge, is by some admeasurements, two hundred and seventy feet deep, by others only two hundred and five. It is about forty-five feet wide at the bottom, and ninety feet at the top; this of course determines the length of the bridge, and its height from the water. Its breadth in the middle is about sixty feet, but more at the ends, and the thickness of the mass at the summit of the arch about forty feet. A part of this thickness is constituted by a coat of earth, which gives growth to many large trees. The residue, with the hill on both sides, is solid rock of lime-stone. The arch approaches the semi-elliptical form; but the larger axis of the ellipsis, which would be the cord of the arch, is many times longer than the transverse. Though the sides of this bridge are provided in some parts with a parapet of fixed rocks, yet few men have resolution to walk to them and look over into the abyss. You involuntarily fall on your hands and feet, creep to the parapet and peep over it. If the view from the top be painful and intolerable, that from below is delightful in an equal extreme. It is impossible for the emotions arising from the sublime, to be felt beyond what they are here: so beautiful an arch, so elevated, so light, and springing as it were up in Heaven, the rapture of the spectator is really indescribable! The fissure continuing narrow, deep, and straight, for a considerable distance above and below the bridge, opens a short but very pleasing view of the North mountain on one side, and Blue Ridge on the other, at the distance each of them of about five miles. This bridge is in the county of Rockbridge, to which it has given name, and affords a public and commodious passage over a valley, which cannot be crossed elsewhere for a considerable distance. The stream passing under it is called Cedar Creek. It is a water of James river, and sufficient in the driest seasons to turn a grist mill, though its fountain is not more than two miles above.* There is a natural bridge similar to the above over Stock Creek, a branch of Peleson river, in Washington county.

* Don Ulloa mentions a break, similar to this, in the province of Angaraez, in South America. It is from sixteen to twenty-two feet wide, one hundred and eleven deep, and of one mile and three quarters continuance, English measure. Its breadth at top is not sensibly greater than at bottom.

Mines and Minerals.]

Virginia is the most pregnant with minerals and fossils of any State in the Union. A single lump of gold ore has been found, near the falls of Rappahannock river, which yielded 17 dwt. of gold, of extraordinary ductility. No other indication of gold has been discovered in its neighbourhood.

On the great Kanhawa, opposite to the mouth of Cripple Creek, and also about twenty-five miles from the southern boundary of the State, in the county of Montgomery, mery, 0036 487 are mines of lead. The metal is mixed, sometimes with earth, and sometimes with rock, which requires the force of gunpowder to open it; and is accompanied with a portion of silver, too small to be worth separation under any process hitherto attempted there. The proportion yielded is from 50 to 80 lb. of pure metal from 100 lb. of washed ore. The most common is that of 60 to the 100 lb. The veins are at sometimes most flattering; at others they disappear suddenly and totally. They enter the side of the hill, and proceed horizontally. Two of them have been wrought by the public. These would employ about fifty labourers to advantage. Thirty men, who have at the same time raised their own corn, have produced sixty tons of lead in the year; but the general quantity is from twenty to twenty-five tons. The present furnace is a mile from the ore bank, and on the opposite side of the river. The ore is first waggoned to the river, a quarter of a mile, then laden on board of canoes and carried across the river, which is there about two hundred yards wide, and then again taken into waggons and carried to the furnace. This mode was originally adopted, that they might avail themselves of a good situation on a creek, for a pounding mill; but it would be easy to have the furnace and pounding mill on the same side of the river, which would yield water, without any dam, by a canal of about half a mile in length. From the furnace the lead is transported one hundred and thirty miles along a good road, leading through the peaks of Otter to Lynch's ferry, or Winston's, on James river, from whence it is carried by water about the same distance to Westham. This land carriage may be greatly shortened, by delivering the lead on James river, above the Blue Ridge, from whence a ton weight has been brought in two canoes. The Great Kanhawa has considerable falls in the neighbourhood of the mines. About seven miles below are three falls, of three or four feet perpendicular each: and three miles above is a rapid of three miles continuance, which has been compared in its descent to the great fall of James river; yet it is the opinion, that they may be laid open for useful navigation, so as to reduce very much the portage between the Kanhawa and James river.

A mine of copper was opened in the county of Amherst, on the north side of James river, and another in the opposite county, on the south side. However, either from bad management or the poverty of the veins, they were discontinued. A few years ago there were six iron mines worked in this State. Two of them made about one hundred and fifty tons bar iron each; the others made each from six hundred to one thousand six hundred tons of pig iron annually. Besides these, a forge at Fredericksburgh, made about three hundred tons a year of bar iron, from pigs imported from Maryland; and a forge on Neapsco of Patomak, worked in the same way. The indications of iron in other places are numerous, and dispersed through all the middle country. The toughness of the cast iron of some of the furnaces is very remarkable. Pots and other utensils, cast thinner than usual, of this iron, may be safely thrown into or out of the waggons in which they are transported. Salt pans made of the same, and no longer wanted for that purpose, cannot be broken up in order to be melted again, unless previously drilled in many parts.

In the western part of the State we are told of iron mines on Chestnut Creek, a branch of the Great Kanhawa, near where it crosses the Carolina line; and in other places.

Considerable quantities of black lead are taken occasionally for use from Winterham, in the county of Amelia. There is no work established at it, those who want, going and procuring it for themselves.

The country on both sides of James river, from fifteen to twenty miles above Richmond, and for several miles northward and southward, is replete with mineral coal of 0037 488 1 of a very excellent quality. Being in the hands of many proprietors, pits have been opened, and worked to an extent equal to the demand. The pits which have been opened lie 150 or 200 feet above the bed of the river, and have been very little incommoded with water. The first discovery of the coal is said to have been made by a boy, digging after a cray-fish; it has also been found on the bottom of trees blown up. In many places it lies within three or four feet of the surface of the ground. It is conjectured that 500,000 bushels might be raised from one pit in 12 months.

In the western country, coal is known to be in so many places, as to have induced an opinion, that the whole tract between the Laurel Mountain, Mississippi, and Ohio, yields coal. It is also known in many places on the north side of the Ohio. The coal at Pittsburgh is of a very superior quality: a bed of it at that place has been on fire since the year 1765. Another coal hill on the Pike Run of Monongahela has been on fire ten years; yet it has burnt away about 20 yards only.

I have known one instance, says Mr. Jefferson, of an emerald found in this country. Amethysts have been frequent, and chrystals common; yet not in such numbers any of them as to be worth seeking.

There is very good marble, and in very great abundance, on James river, at the mouth of Rockfish: some white and as pure as one might expect to find on the surface of the earth; but generally variegated with red, blue, and purple. None of it has ever been worked: it forms a very large precipice, which hangs over a navigable part of the river.

But one vein of lime-stone is known below the Blue Ridge: its first appearance is in Prince William, two miles below the Pignut ridge of mountains; thence it passes on nearly parallel with that, and crosses the Rivanna about five miles below it, where it is called the South-west Ridge: it then crosses Hardware, above the mouth of Hudson's creek, James river, at the mouth of Rockfish, at the marble quarry before spoken of, probably runs up that river to where it appears again at Ross's iron works, and so passes off south-westwardly by Flat creek of Otter river: it is never more than 100 yards wide. From the Blue ridge westwardly the whole country seems to be founded on a rock of lime-stone, besides infinite quantities on the surface, both loose and fixed: this is cut into beds, which range, as the mountains and sea coast do, from south-west to north-east.

Medicinal Springs.]

There are several medicinal springs, some of which are indubitably efficacious, while others seem to owe their reputation as much to fancy, and change of air and regimen, as to their real virtues. None of them have undergone a chemical analysis in skillful hands, nor been so far the subject of observations as to have produced a reduction into classes of the disorders which they relieve; it is in my power to give little more than an enumeration of them.

The most efficacious of these are two springs in Augusta, near the sources of James river, where it is called Jackson's river. They rise near the foot of the ridge of mountains, generally called the Warm spring mountain, but in the maps Jackson's mountains. The one is distinguished by the name of the Warm Spring, and the other of the Hot Spring. The warm spring issues with a very bold stream, sufficient to work a grist mill, and to keep the waters of its bason, which is 30 feet in diameter, at the vital warmth, viz. 96° of Fahrenheit's thermometer. The matter with which these waters is allied is very volatile; its smell indicates it to be sulphureous, as also does the circumstance of turning silver black: they relieve rheumatisms: other complaints also of very different natures have been removed or lessened by them. It rains here four or five days in every week. The

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The hot spring is about six miles from the warm, is much smaller, and has been so hot as to have boiled an egg. Some believe its degree of heat to be lessened: it raises the mercury in Fahrenheit's thermometer to 112 degrees, which is fever heat: it sometimes relieves where the warm spring fails. A fountain of common water, issuing within a few inches of its margin, gives it a singular appearance. Comparing the temperature of these with that of the hot springs of Kamschatka, of which Krachininnikow gives an account, the difference is very great, the latter rising the mercury to 200 degrees, which is within 12 degrees of boiling water. These springs are very much resorted to, in spite of a total want of accommodation for the sick. Their waters are strongest in the hottest months, which occasions their being visited in July and August principally.

The sweet springs are in the county of Botetourt, at the eastern foot of the Allegany, about 42 miles from the warm springs. They are still less known. Having been found to relieve cases in which the others had been ineffectually tried, it is probable their composition is different: they are different also in their temperature, being as cold as common water; which is not mentioned, however, as a proof of a distinct impregnation. This is among the first sources of James river.

On Patomak river, in Berkeley county, above the North Mountain, are medicinal springs, much more frequented than those of Augusta: their powers, however, are less, the waters weakly mineralized, and scarcely warm. They are more visited, because situated in a fertile, plentiful, and populous country, provided with better accommodations, always safe from the Indians, and nearest to the more populous States.

In Louisa county, on the head waters of the South Anna branch of York river, are springs of some medicinal virtue; they are, however, not much used. There is a weak chalybeate at Richmond, and many others in various parts of the country, which are of too little worth, or too little note to be enumerated after those before mentioned.

We are told of a sulphur spring on Howard's creek of green briar. In the low grounds of the Great Kanhawa, seven miles above the mouth of Elk river, and 67 above that of the Kanhawa itself, is a hole in the earth of the capacity of 30 or 40 gallons, from which issues constantly a bituminous vapour, in so strong a current, as to give to the sand about its orifice the motion which it has in a boiling spring. On presenting a lighted candle or torch within 18 inches of the hole, it flames up in a column of 18 inches diameter, and four or five feet in height, which sometimes burns out in 20 minutes, and at other times has been known to continue three days, and then has been left burning. The flame is unsteady, of the density of that of burning spirits, and smells like burning pit coal. Water sometimes collects in the bason, which is remarkably cold, and is kept in ebullition by the vapour issuing through it; if the vapour be fired in that state, the water soon becomes so warm that the hand cannot bear it, and evaporates wholly in a short time. This, with the circumjacent lands, is the property of President Washington and of General Lewis.

There is a similar one on Sandy river, the flame of which is a column of about 12 inches diameter and three feet high. General Clarke kindled the vapour, staid about an hour, and left it burning.

The mention of uncommon springs leads to that of Syphon fountains: there is one of these near the intersection of the Lord Fairfax's boundary with the North Mountain, not far from Brock's gap, on the stream of which is a grist mill, which grinds two bushels of grain at every flood of the spring. Another near the Cow Pasture river, a mile and a half below its confluence with the Bull Pasture river, and 16 or 17 miles from 0039 490 from the Hot Springs, which intermits once in every twelve hours. One also near the mouth of the North Holston.

After these may be mentioned, the Natural Well on the lands of a Mr. Lewis, in Frederick county: it is somewhat larger than a common well; the water rises in it as near the surface of the earth as in the neighbouring artificial wells, and is of a depth as yet unknown. It is said, there is a current in it tending sensibly downwards; if this be true, it probably feeds some fountain, of which it is the natural reservoir, distinguished from others, like that of Madison's cave, by being accessible: it is used with a bucket and windlass as an ordinary well.

Population.]

See table.

Militia.]

Every able-bodied freeman, between the ages of 16 and 50, is enrolled in the militia. Those of every county are formed into companies, and these again into one or more battalions, according to the numbers in the county: they are commanded by colonels, and other subordinate officers, as in the regular service. In every county is a county lieutenant, who commands the whole militia in his county, but ranks only as a colonel in the field. They have no general officers always existing: these are appointed occasionally, when an invasion or insurrection happens, and their commission determines with the occasion. The governor is head of the military as well as civil power. The law requires every militia-man to provide himself with the arms usual in the regular service. But this injunction was always indifferently complied with, and the arms they had have been so frequently called for to arm the regulars, that in the lower parts of the country they are entirely disarmed. In the middle country a fourth or fifth part of them may have such firelocks as they had provided to destroy the noxious animals which infest their farms; and on the western side of the Blue Ridge they are generally armed with rifles.

The intersection of Virginia, by so many navigable rivers, renders it almost incapable of defence: as the land will not support a great number of people, a force cannot soon be collected to repel a sudden invasion. If the militia bear the same proportion to the number of inhabitants now, as in 1782, they amount to about 68,000.

Chief Towns.]

They have no townships in this State, nor any towns of consequence, owing probably to the intersection of the country by navigable rivers, which brings the trade to the doors of the inhabitants, and prevents the necessity of their going in quest of it to a distance.

Williamsburgh, which till the year 1780 was the seat of government, never contained above 1800 inhabitants, and Norfolk, the most populous town they ever had in Virginia, contained but 6000. The towns, or more properly villages or hamlets, are as follows: On James river and its waters—Norfolk, Portsmouth, Hampton, Suffolk, Smithfield, Williamsburg, Petersburg, Richmond, the seat of government, Manchester, Charlottesville, New London.—On York river and its waters, York, Newcastle, Hanover.—On Rappahannock, Urbanna, Port Royal, Fredericksburg, Falmouth.—On Patomak and its waters, Dumfries, Colchester, Alexandria, Winchester, Staunton.

There are places at which, like some of the foregoing, the laws have said there shall be towns, but nature has said there shall not; and they remain unworthy of enumeration. Norfolk will probably become the emporium for all the trade of the Chesapeak Bay and its waters; and a canal of eight or ten miles, which is contemplated, and will probably soon be completed, will bring it to all that of Albemarle found and its waters. Secondary to this place, are the towns at the head of the tide waters, to wit, Petersburg on Appamattox, Richmond on James river, Newcastle on York river, Fredericksburgh dericksburgh 0040 491 3R2 on Rappahannock, and Alexandria on Patomak. From these the distribution will be to subordinate situations of the country. Accidental circumstances however may control the indications of nature, and in no instances do they do it more frequently than in the rise and fall of towns.

To the foregoing general account, we add the following more particular descriptions:

Alexandria stands on the south bank of Patomak river in Fairfax county: its situation is elevated and pleasant; the soil is clay. The original settlers, anticipating its future growth and importance, laid out the streets upon the plan of Philadelphia. It contains about 400 houses, many of which are handsomely built, and nearly 3000 inhabitants. This town, upon opening the navigation of Patomak river, and in consequence of its vicinity to the city of Washington, will probably be one of the most thriving commercial places on the continent.

Mount Vernon, the celebrated seat of President Washington, is pleasantly situated on the Virginia bank of the river Patomak, where it is nearly two miles wide, and is about 280 miles from the sea, and 127 from Point Look-out, at the mouth of the river. It is nine miles below Alexandria, and four above the beautiful seat of the late Colonel Fairfax, called Bellevoir. The area of the mount is 200 feet above the surface of the river, and, after furnishing a lawn of five acres in front, and about the same in rear of the buildings, falls off rather abruptly on those two quarters. On the north end it subsides gradually into extensive pasture grounds; while on the south it slopes more steeply in a shorter distance, and terminates with the coach-house, stables, vineyard, and nurseries. On either wing is a thick grove of different flowering forest trees. Parallel with them, on the land side, are two spacious gardens, into which one is led by two serpentine gravel walks, planted with weeping willows and shady shrubs. The mansion house itself (though much embellished by, yet not perfectly satisfactory to the chaste taste of the present possessor) appears venerable and convenient. The superb banquetting room has been finished since he returned home from the army. A lofty portico, 96 feet in length, supported by eight pillars, has a pleasing effect when viewed from the water; the whole assemblage of the green-house, school house, offices and servants' halls, when seen from the land side, bears a resemblance to a rural village; especially as the lands on that side are laid out somewhat in the form of English gardens, in meadows and grass grounds, ornamented with little copses, circular clumps, and single trees. A small park on the margin of the river, where the English sallow-deer, and the American wild deer are seen through the thickets, alternately with the vessels as they are sailing along, add a romantic and picturesque appearance to the whole scenery. On the opposite side of a small creek to the northward, an extensive plain, exhibiting corn-fields and cattle grazing, affords in summer a luxuriant landscape; while the blended verdure of woodlands and cultivated declivities, on the Maryland shore, variegates the prospect in a charming manner. Such are the philosophic shades to which the late Commander in Chief of the American armies retired from the tumultuous scenes of a busy world, and which he has since left to dignify, by his unequalled abilities, the most important office in the gift of his fellow citizens.

Fredericksburgh, in the county of Spotsylvania, is situated on the south side of Rappahannock river, 110 miles from its mouth, and contains about 200 houses, principally on one street, which runs nearly parallel with the river, and 1500 inhabitants.

Richmond, in the county of Henrico, is the present seat of government, and stands on the north side of James river, just at the foot of the falls, and contains between 400 and 500 houses, and nearly 4000 inhabitants. Part of the houses are built upon the margin 0041 492 2 margin of the river, convenient for business; the rest are upon a hill which overlooks the lower part of the town, and commands an extensive prospect of the river and adjacent country. The new houses are well built. A large state-house, or capitol, has lately been erected on the hill. The lower part of the town is divided by a creek, over which is a convenient bridge. A bridge between 300 and 400 yards in length, has lately been thrown across James river at the foot of the fall, by Colonel Mayo. That part from Manchester to the island is built on fifteen boats. From the island to the rocks was formerly a floating bridge of rafts, but Colonel Mayo has now built it of framed log piers, filled with stone. From the rocks to the landing at Richmond, the bridge is continued on framed piers filled with stone. This bridge connects Richmond with Manchester; and as the passengers pay toll, it produces a handsome revenue to Colonel Mayo, who is the sole proprietor.

The falls above the bridge are seven miles in length. A noble canal is cutting and nearly completed on the north side of the river, which is to terminate in a bason of about two acres, in the town of Richmond. From this bason to the wharves in the river will be a land carriage of about a mile. This canal is cutting under the direction of a company, who have calculated the expense at 30,000l. Virginia money: this they have divided into 500 shares of 60l. each. The opening of this canal promises the addition of much wealth to Richmond.

Petersburgh, 25 miles southward of Richmond, stands on the south side of Appamattox river, and contains upwards of 300 houses in two divisions; one is upon a clay, cold soil, and is very dirty, the other upon a plain of sand or loam. There is no regularity and very little elegance in Petersburgh, it is merely a place of business. The Free Masons have a hall tolerably elegant. It is very unhealthy,* being shut out from the access of the winds by high hills on every side. This confined situation has such an effect upon the constitutions of the inhabitants, that they very nearly resemble those of hard drinkers; hence, in the opinion of physicians, they require a considerable quantity of stimulating aliments and vinous drinks to keep up a balance between the several functions of the body.

* It is asserted, as an undoubted fact, by a number of gentlemen well acquainted with this town, that, in 1781, “one child only born in it had arrived to manhood, and he was a cripple.”

About 2200 hogsheads of tobacco are inspected here annually. Like Richmond, Williamsburgh, Alexandria, and Norfolk, it is a corporation; and what is singular, Petersburgh city comprehends a part of three counties. The celebrated Indian queen, Pocahonta, from whom descended the Randolph and Bowling families, formerly resided at this place. Petersburgh and its suburbs contain about 3000 inhabitants.

Williamsburgh is 60 miles eastward of Richmond, situated between two creeks; one falling into James, the other into York river. The distance of each landing place is about a mile from the town, which, with the disadvantage of not being able to bring up large vessels, and want of enterprize in the inhabitants, are the reasons why it never flourished: it consists of about 200 houses, going fast to decay, and has about 1400 inhabitants: it is regularly laid out in parallel streets, with a square in the center, through which runs the principal street, E. and W. about a mile in length, and more than 100 feet wide. At the ends of this street are two public buildings, the college and capitol: besides these, there is an episcopal church, a prison, a hospital for lunatics, and the palace; all of them, extremely indifferent. In the capitol is a large marble statue, in the likeness of Narbone Berkley, Lord Botetourt, a man distinguished for his love of piety, literature, and good government, and formerly governor of Virginia: ginia: 0042 495 it was erected at the expense of the State, some time since the year 1771. The capitol is little better than in ruins, and this elegant statue is exposed to the rudeness of negroes and boys, and is shamefully defaced.

Every thing in Williamsburgh appears dull, forsaken, and melancholy; no trade; no amusement, but the infamous one of gaming; no industry, and very little appearance of religion. The unprosperous state of the college, but principally the removal of the seat of government, have contributed much to the decline of this city.

Yorktown, 13 miles eastward from Williamsburgh, and 14 from Monday's point at the mouth of the river, is a place of about 100 houses, situated on the south side of York river, and contains about 700 inhabitants. It was rendered famous by the capture of Lord Cornwallis and his army, on the 19th of October, 1781, by the united forces of France and America.

Colleges, Academies, &c.]

The college of William and Mary was founded in the time of King William and Queen Mary, who granted to it 20,000 acres of land, and a penny a pound duty on certain tobaccos exported from Virginia and Maryland, which had been levied by the statute of 25 Car. II. The assembly also gave it, by temporary laws, a duty on liquors imported, and skins and furs exported. From these resources it received upwards of 3000l. The buildings are of brick, sufficient for an indifferent accommodation of perhaps 100 students. By its charter it was to be under the government of 20 visitors, who were to be its legislators, and to have a president and six professors, who were incorporated: it was allowed a representative in the General Assembly. Under this charter, a professorship of the Greek and Latin languages, a professorship of mathematics, one of moral philosophy, and two of divinity, were established. To these were annexed, for a sixth professorship, a considerable donation by a Mr. Boyle of England, for the instruction of the Indians, and their conversion to Christianity: this was called the professorship of Brasserton, from an estate of that name in England, purchased with the monies given. The admission of the learners of Latin and Greek filled the college with children: this rendering it disagreeable and degrading to young gentlemen already prepared for entering on the sciences, they were discouraged from resorting to it, and thus the schools for mathematics and moral philosophy, which might have been of some service, became of very little. The revenues too were exhausted in accommodating those who came only to acquire the rudiments of science. After the present revolution, the visitors having no power to change those circumstances in the constitution of the college which were fixed by the charter, and being therefore confined in the number of professorships, undertook to change the objects of the professorships. They excluded the two schools for divinity, and that for the Greek and Latin languages, and substituted others; so that at present they stand thus—A professorship for law and police; anatomy and medicine; natural philosophy and mathematics; moral philosophy, the law of nature and nations, the fine arts; modern languages; for the Brasserton.

Measures have been taken to increase the number of professorships, as well for the purpose of subdividing those already instituted, as of adding others for other branches of science. To the professorships usually established in the universities of Europe, it would seem proper to add one for the ancient languages and literature of the north, on account of their connection with our own language, laws, customs, and history. The purposes of the Brasserton institution would be better answered by maintaining a perpetual mission among the Indian tribes, the object of which, besides instructing them in the principles of Christianity, as the founder requires, should be to collect their traditions, laws, customs, languages, and other circumstances which might lead to a discovery 0043 496 discovery of their relation to one another, or descent from other nations. When these objects are accomplished with one tribe, the missionary might pass on to another.

The college edifice is a huge, mishapen pile; “which but that it has a root, would be taken for a brick kiln.” In 1787, there about thirty young gentlemen members of this college, a large proportion of which were law students. The academy in Prince Edward county has been erected into a college by the name of Hampden Sydney college. It has been a flourishing seminary, but is now said to be on the decline.

There are several academies in Virginia; one at Alexandria, one at Norfolk, and others in other places.

Since the declaration of independence the laws of Virginia have been revised by a committee appointed for the purpose, who have reported their work to the Assembly; one object of this revisal was to diffuse knowledge more generally through the mass of the people. The bill for this purpose “proposes to lay off every county into small districts of five or six miles square, called hundreds, and in each of them to establish a school for teaching reading, writing, and arithmetic. The tutor to be supported by the hundred, and all persons in it entitled to send their children three years gratis, and as much longer as they please, paying for it. These schools to be under a visitor, who is annually to chuse the boy of best genius in the school, of those whose parents are too poor to give them further education, and to send him forward to one of the grammar schools, of which twenty are proposed to be erected in different parts of the country, for teaching Greek, Latin, Geography, and the higher branches of numerical arithmetic. Of the boys thus sent in any one year, trial is to be made at the grammar schools, one or two years, and the best genius of the whole selected and continued six years, and the residue dismissed; by this means twenty of the best geniusses will be raked from the rubbish annually, and instructed, at the public expense, so far as the grammar schools go. At the end of six years instruction, one half are to be discontinued (from among whom the grammar schools will probably be supplied with future matters), and the other half, who are to be chosen for the superiority of their parts and disposition, are to be sent and continued three years in the study of such sciences as they shall chuse, at William and Mary college, the plan of which is proposed to be enlarged, as will be hereafter explained, and extended to all the useful sciences. The ultimate result of the whole scheme of education would be the teaching all the children of the State reading, writing, and common arithmetic; turning out ten annually of superior genius, well taught in Greek, Latin, Geography, and the higher branches of arithmetic; turning out ten others annually, of still superior parts, who, to those branches of learning, shall have added such of the sciences as their genius shall have led them to; the furnishing to the wealthier part of the people convenient schools, at which their children may be educated, at their own expense. The general objects of this law are to provide an education adapted to the years, to the capacity, and the condition of every one, and directed to their freedom and happiness. Specific details were not proper for the law: these must be the business of the visitors entrusted with its execution. The first stage of this education being the schools of the hundreds, wherein the great mass of the people will receive their instruction, the principal foundations of future order will be laid here. The first elements of morality may be instilled into their minds; such as, when further developed as their judgements advance in strength, may teach them how to promote their own greatest happiness, by shewing them that it does not depend on the condition of life in which chance has placed them, but is always the result of a good conscience, good health, occupation, and freedom in all just pursuits. Those whom either the wealth of their parents, or the adoption of the State, shall 0044 497 3 shall define to higher degrees of learning, will go on to the grammar schools, which constitute the next stage, there to be instructed in the languages. As soon as they are of a sufficient age, it is supposed they will be sent on from the grammar schools to the university, which constitutes the third and last stage, there to study those sciences which may be adapted to their views. By that part of the plan which prescribes the selection of the youths of genius from among the classes of the poor, the State will avail itself of those talents which nature has sown as liberally among the poor as the rich, but which perish without use, if not sought for and cultivated. But of all the views of this law none is more important, none more legitimate, than that of rendering the people the safe, as they are the ultimate, guardians of their own liberty: for this purpose, the reading in the first stage, where they will receive their whole education, is proposed, as has been said, to be chiefly historical. History, by apprising them of the past, will enable them to judge of the future; it will avail them of the experience of other times and other nations; it will qualify them as judges of the actions and designs of men; it will enable them to know ambition under every disguise it may assume; and knowing it, to defeat its views. In every government on earth is some trace of human weakness, some germ of corruption and degeneracy, which cunning will discover, and wickedness insensibly open, cultivate, and improve. Every government degenerates when trusted to the rulers of the people alone: the people themselves therefore are its only safe depositories; and to render even them safe, their minds must be improved to a certain degree: this indeed is not all that is necessary, though it be essentially necessary. The influence over government must be shared among all the people. If every individual, which composes their mass, participates of the ultimate authority, the government will be safe; because the corrupting the whole mass will exceed any private resources of wealth; and public ones cannot be provided but by levies on the people: in this case every man would have to pay his own price. The government of Great Britain has been corrupted, because but one man in ten has a right to vote for members of parliament. The sellers of the government therefore get nine-tenths of their price clear.

The excellent measures for the diffusion of useful knowledge, which the forementioned bill proposes, have not yet been carried into effect. And it will be happy if the great inequality in the circumstances of the citizens; the pride, the independence, and the indolence of one class; and the poverty and depression of the other, do not prove insuperable difficulties in the way of their universal operation.

Religion.]

The first settlers in this country were emigrants from England, of the English church, just at a point of time when it was flushed with complete victory over the religious of all other persuasions. Possessed, as they became, of the powers of making, administering, and executing the laws, they shewed equal intolerance in this country with their Presbyterian brethren, who had emigrated to the northern government. The Quakers were flying from persecution in England: they cast their eyes on these new countries, as asylums of civil and religious freedom; but they found them free only for the reigning sect. Several acts of the Virginia assembly of 1659, 1662, and 1663, had made it penal in their parents to refuse to have their children baptized; had prohibited the unlawful assembling of Quakers; had made it penal for any master of a vessel to bring a Quaker into the State; had ordered those already here, and such as should come thereafter, to be imprisoned till they should abjure the country; provided a milder punishment for their first and second return, but death for the third; had inhibited all persons from suffering their meetings in or near their houses, entertaining them individually, or disposing of books which supported their tenets. If no capital execution took 0045 498 took place here, as did in New England, it was not owing to the moderation of the church, or spirit of the legislature, as may be inferred from the law itself; but to historical circumstances which have not been handed down to us. The Episcopalians retained full possession of the country about a century. Other opinions began to creep in; and the great care of the government to support their own church, having begotten an equal degree of indolence in its clergy, two-thirds of the people had become dissenters at the commencement of the present revolution. The laws, indeed, were still oppressive on them, but the spirit of the one party had subsided into moderation, and of the other had risen to a degree of determination which commanded respect.

The present denominations of Christians in Virginia are Presbyterians, who are the most numerous, and inhabit the western parts of the State; Episcopalians, who are the most ancient settlers, and occupy the eastern and first settled parts of the State. Intermingled with these are great numbers of Baptists and Methodists.

Character, Manners, and Customs.]

Virginia prides itself in being “The Ancient Dominion.” It has produced some of the most distinguished and influential men that have been active in effecting the two late grand and important revolutions in America. Her political and military character will rank among the first in the page of history: but it is to be observed, that this character has been obtained for the Virginians by a few eminent men, who have taken the lead in all their public transactions, and who, in short, govern Virginia; for the great body of the people do not concern themselves with politics; so that their government, though nominally republican, is, in fact, oligarchal or aristocratical.

The Virginians, who are rich, are in general sensible, polite, and hospitable, and of an independent spirit. The poor are ignorant and abject, and all are of an inquisitive turn. A considerable proportion of the people are much addicted to gaming, drinking, swearing, horse-racing, cock-fighting, and most kinds of dissipation. There is a much greater disparity between the rich and the poor, in Virginia, than in any of the northern States. The native inhabitants are too generally unacquainted with business, owing to their pride, and false notions of greatness. Before the revolution they considered it as beneath a gentleman to attend to mercantile matters, and devoted their time principally to amusement. By these means the Scotch people and other foreigners who came among them, became their merchants, and suddenly grew rich. The influence of slavery here is equally pernicious to the morals of the citizens as in the other southern States.

Constitution, Courts, and Laws.]

The executive powers are lodged in the hands of a governor, chosen annually, and incapable of acting more than three years in seven. He is assisted by a council of eight members. The judiciary powers are divided among several courts, as will be hereafter explained. Legislation is exercised by two houses of Assembly, the one called the House of Delegates, composed of two members from each county, chosen annually by the citizens, possessing an estate for life in 100 acres of uninhabited land, or twenty-five acres with a house on it, or in a house or lot in some town; the other called the Senate, consisting of twenty-four members chosen quadrennially by the same electors, who for this purpose are distributed into twenty-four districts. The concurrence of both houses is necessary to the passing of a law. They have the appointment of the governor and council, the judges of the superior courts, auditors, attorney-general, treasurer, register of the land office.

This constitution was the first that was formed in the whole United States. There

0046 499 3S

There are three superior courts, to which appeals lie from the courts below, to wit, the high court of chancery, the general court, and court of admiralty. The first and second of these receive appeals from the county courts, and also have original jurisdiction where the subject of controversy is of the value of ten pounds sterling, or where it concerns the title or bounds of land. The jurisdiction of the admiralty is original altogether. The high court of chancery is composed of three judges, the general court of five, and the court of admiralty of three. The two first hold their sessions at Richmond at stated times, the chancery twice in the year, and the general court twice for business civil and criminal, and twice more for criminal only. The court of admiralty sits at Williamsburgh whenever a controversy arises.

There is one supreme court, called the Court of Appeals, composed of the judges of the three superior courts, assembling twice a year at stated times at Richmond. This court receives appeals in all civil cases from each of the superior courts, and determines them finally. But it has no original jurisdiction.

All public accounts are settled with a board of auditors, consisting of three members appointed by the General Assembly, any two of whom may act. But an individual, dissatisfied with the determination of that board, may carry his case into the proper superior court.

In 1661, the laws of England were expressly adopted by an act of the Assembly of Virginia, except so far as a “difference of condition” render them inapplicable. To these were added a number of acts of Assembly passed during the monarchy, and ordinances of convention, and acts of Assembly since the establishment of the republic. The following variations from the British model are worthy of notice: Debtors unable to pay their debts, and making faithful delivery of their whole effects, are released from their confinement, and their persons for ever discharged from restraint for such previous debts: but any property they may afterwards acquire will be subject to their creditors. The poor, unable to support themselves, are maintained by an assessment on the titheable persons in their parish. A foreigner of any nation, not in open war, becomes naturalized by removing to the State to reside, and taking an oath of fidelity; and thereby acquires every right of a native citizen. Slaves pass by descent and dower as lands do. Slaves, as well as lands, were entailable during the monarchy: but, by an act of the first republican Assembly, all donees in tail, present and future, were vested with the absolute dominion of the entailed subject. Gaming debts are made void, and monies actually paid to discharge such debts (if they exceed forty shillings) may be recovered by the payer within three months, or by any other person afterwards. Tobacco, flour, beef, pork, tar, pitch, and turpentine, must be inspected by persons publicly appointed before they can be exported.

In 1785, the Assembly enacted, that no man should be compelled to support any religious worship, place, or minister whatsoever, nor be enforced, restrained, molested, or burdened in his body or goods, nor otherwise suffer on account of his religious opinions or belief; but that all men should be free to profess, and by argument to maintain, their opinion in matters of religion; and that the same should in no wise diminish, enlarge, or affect their civil capacities.

In October 1786, an act was passed by the Assembly prohibiting the importation of slaves into the Commonwealth, upon penalty of the forfeiture of the sum of 1000l. for every slave. And every slave imported contrary to the true intent and meaning of this act, becomes free.

Manufacturers and Commerce.]

Before the war, the inhabitants of this State paid but little attention to the manufacture of their own clothing. It has been thought 0047 500 thought they used to import as much as seven-eights of their clothing, and that they now manufacture three-quarters of it. We have before mentioned that considerable quantities of iron are manufactured in this State. To these we may add the manufacture of lead; besides which they have few others of consequence. The people are much attached to agriculture and prefer foreign manufactures.

Before the war this State exported, communibus annis, according to the best information that could be obtained, as follows:

Articles. Quantity. Amount in Dollars. Tobacco 55,000 hhds. of 100lb. 1,650,000 Wheat 800,000 bushels 666,666 ⅔ Indian corn 600,000 bushels 200,000 Shipping — — 100,000 Masts, planks, skantling, shingles, staves — — 66,666 ⅔ Tar, pitch, turpentine 30,000 barrels 40,000 Peltry, viz. skins of deer, beavers, otters, musk rats, racoons, foxes 180 hhds. of 600lb. 42,000 Pork 4,000 barrels 40,000 Flax-seed, hemp, cotton — — 8,000 Pit coal, pig iron — — 6,666 ⅔ Peas 5,000 bushels 3,333 ⅔ Beef 1,000 barrels 3,333 ⅔ Sturgeon, white shad, herring — — 3,333 ⅔ Brandy from peaches and apples, and whiskey — — 1,666 ⅔ Horses — — 1,666 ⅔ 2,838,333 ⅔

TABLE

This sum is equal to 850,000l. Virginia money, 657,142 guineas.

The amount of exports from this State in the year succeeding October 1, 1790, consisting chiefly of articles mentioned in the foregoing table, was 3,131,227 dollars. About 40,000 hogsheads of tobacco only were exported this year.

In the year 1758, this State exported seventy thousand hogsheads of tobacco, which was the greatest quantity ever produced in this country in one year. But its culture has fast declined since the commencement of the war, and that of wheat taken its place. The price which it commands at market will not enable the planter to cultivate it. Were the supply still to depend on Virginia and Maryland alone, as its culture becomes more difficult, this price would rise, so as to enable the planter to surmount those difficulties and to live. But the western country on the Mississippi, and the midlands of Georgia, have fresh and fertile lands in abundance, and a hotter sun, are able to undersell these two States, and will oblige them in time to abandon the raising tobacco altogether. And a happy obligation for them it will be. It is a culture productive of infinite wretchedness. Those employed in it are in a continued state of exertion beyond the powers of nature to support. Little food of any kind is raised by them; so that the men and animals on these farms are badly fed, and the earth is rapidly 0048 501 3S2 rapidly impoverished. The cultivation of wheat is the reverse in every circumstance. Besides clothing the earth with herbage, and preserving its fertility, it feeds the labourers plentifully, requires from them only a moderate toil, except in the season of harvest, raises great numbers of animals for food and service, and diffuses plenty and happiness among the whole. It is easier to make an hundred bushels of wheat than a thousand weight of tobacco, and they are worth more when made.

It is not easy to say what are the articles either of necessity, comfort, or luxury, which cannot be raised here, as every thing hardier than the olive, and as hardy as the fig, may be raised in the open air. Sugar, coffee, and tea, indeed, are not between these limits; and habit having placed them among the necessaries of life with the wealthy, as long as these habits remain, they must go for them to those countries which are able to furnish them.

History.]

We have already given a brief historical account of the first settlement of Virginia, till the arrival of Lord Delaware in 1610. His arrival with a fresh supply of settlers and provisions revived the drooping spirits of the former company, and gave permanency and respectability to the settlement.

In April 1613, Mr. John Rolf, a worthy young gentleman, was married to Pocahontas, the daughter of Powhatan, the famous Indian chief. This connection, which was very agreable both to the English and Indians, was the foundation of a friendly and advantageous commerce between them.

In 1616, Mr. Rolf, with his wife Pocahontas, visited England, where she was treated with that attention and respect which she had merited by her important services to the colony in Virginia. She died the year following at Gravesend, in the 22d year of her age, just as she was about to embark for America. She had embraced the Christian religion; and in her life and death evidenced the sincerity of her profession. She left a little son, who, having received his education in England, came over to Virginia, where he lived and died in affluence and honour, leaving behind him an only daughter. Her descendants are among the most respectable families in Virginia.

Tomocomo, a sensible Indian, brother-in-law to Pocahontas, accompanied her to England; and was directed by Powhatan to bring him an exact account of the numbers and strength of the English. For this purpose, when he arrived at Plymouth, he took a long stick, intending to cut a notch in it for every person he should see. This he soon found impracticable, and threw away his stick. On his return, being asked by Powhatan, how many people there were, he is said to have replied, “Count the stars in the sky, the leaves on the trees, and the sands on the sea shore; for such is the number of the people in England.”

In pursuance of the authorities given to the company by their several charters, and more especially of that part in the charter of 1609, which authorised them to establish a form of government, they, on the 24th of July, 1621, by charter under their common seal, declared, That from thenceforward there should be two supreme councils in Virginia, the one to be called the Council of State, to be placed and displaced by the treasurer, council in England, and company, from time to time, whose office was to be that of assisting and advising the governor; the other to be called the General Assembly, to be convened by the governor once yearly, or oftener, which was to consist of the council of state, and two burgesses out of every town, hundred, or plantation, to be respectively chosen by the inhabitants. In this all matters were to be decided by the greater part of the votes present; reserving to the governor a negative voice; and they were to have power to treat, consult, and conclude all emergent occasions concerning cerning 0049 502 the public weal, and to make laws for the behoof and government of the colony, imitating and following the laws and policy of England as nearly as might be; provided that these laws should have no force till ratified in a general quarter court of the company in England, and returned under their common seal, and declaring that, after the government of the colony should be well framed and settled, no orders of the council in England should bind the colony unless ratified by the said General Assembly. The king and company quarrelled, and by a mixture of law and force, the latter were ousted of all their rights, without retribution, after having expended 100,000l. in establishing the colony, without the smallest aid from government. King James suspended their powers by proclamation of July 15, 1624, and Charles I. took the government into his own hands. Both sides had their partisans in the colony: but in truth, the people of the colony in general thought themselves little concerned in the dispute. There being three parties interested in these several charters, what passed between the first and second it was thought could not affect the third. If the king seized on the powers of the company, they only passed into other hands without increase or diminution, while the rights of the people remained as they were: but they did not remain so long. The northern parts of their country were granted away to the Lords Baltimore and Fairfax, the first of these obtaining also the rights of separate jurisdiction and government. And in 1650 the parliament, considering itself as standing in the place of their deposed king, and as having succeeded to all his powers, without as well as within the realm, began to assume a right over the colonies, passing an act for inhibiting their trade with foreign nations. This succession to the exercise of the kingly authority gave the first colour for parliamentary interference with the colonies, and produced that fatal precedent which they continued to follow after they had retired, in other respects, within their proper functions. When this colony, therefore, which still maintained its opposition to Cromwell and the parliament, was induced in 1651 to lay down their arms, they previously secured their most essential rights by a solemn convention.

This convention, entered into with arms in their hands, they supposed had secured the ancient limits of their country; its free trade; its exemption from taxation but by their own assembly, and exclusion of military force from among them. Yet in every of these points was this convention violated by subsequent kings and parliaments, and other infractions of their constitution, equally dangerous, committed. The General Assembly, which was composed of the council of state and burgesses, sitting together and deciding by plurality of voices, was split into two houses, by which the council obtained a separate negative on their laws. Appeals from their supreme court, which had been fixed by law in their General Assembly, were arbitrarily revoked to England, to be there heard before the king and council. Instead of 400 miles on the sea coast, they were reduced, in the space of thirty years, to about 100 miles. Their trade with foreigners was totally suppressed, and, when carried to Great Britain, was there loaded with imposts. It is unnecessary, however, to glean up the several instances of injury, as scattered through American and British history; and the more especially, as, by passing on to the accession of the present king, we shall find specimens of them all, aggravated, multiplied, and crowded within a small compass of time, so as to evince a fixed design of considering the rights of the people, whether natural, conventional, or chartered, as mere nullities. The colonies were taxed internally; their essential interests sacrificed to individuals in Great Britain; their legislatures suspended; charters annulled; trials by juries taken away' their persons subjected to transportation across the Atlantic, and to trial before foreign judicatories; their supplications for redress thought 0050 503 thought beneath answer; themselves published as cowards in the councils of their mother country and courts of Europe; armed troops sent among them to enforce submission to these violences; and actual hostilities commenced against them. No alternative was presented but resistance or unconditional submission. Between these could be no hesitation. They closed in the appeal to arms. They declared themselves Independent States. They confederated together in one great republic; thus securing to every State the benefit of an union of their whole force. They fought—they conquered—and obtained an honourable and glorious peace.

Edward Maria Wingfield, from May, 1607, to Sept. 1607 John Ratcliffe, Sept. 1607, to July, 1608 Mat. Scrivener, Vice-President, July, 1608, to Sept. 1608 John Smith, Sept. 1608, to Sept. 1609 George Percy, Governor, Sept. 1609, to May, 1610 Sir Thomas Gates, May, 1610, to June, 1610 Lord Delaware, June, 1610, to March, 1611 George Percy, March, 1611, to May, 1611 Sir Thomas Dale, May, 1611, to Aug. 1611 Sir Thomas Gates, August, 1611, to 1614 Sir Thomas Dale, 1614, to 1616 George Yeardley, 1616, to 1617 Samuel Argall, 1617, to 1619 George Yeardley, 1619, to Nov. 1621 Sir Francis Wyat, Nov. 1621, to 1624

List of Presidents and Governors of Virginia, from its first settlement to the year 1624.*

* Smith brings down the history of Virginia no farther than this period. A list of the governors since has not been received.

Boundaries.]

Bounded north-west, by the River Ohio; west, by Cumberland river; south, by North Carolina; east, by Sandy river, and a line drawn due south from its source, till it strikes the northern boundary of North Carolina. Civil

Civil Divisions.]

Kentucky was originally divided into two counties, Lincoln and Jefferson. It has since been subdivided into nine, which follow:

Counties. No. Inhab. Chief Towns. No. Inhab. Jefferson, 4,565 Louisville, 200 Fayette, 17,576 Lexington, 834 Bourbon, 7,837 Mercer, 6,941 Danville, 150 Nelson, 11,099 Beardstown, 216 Madison, 5,772 Lincoln, 6,548 Woodford, 9,210 Mason, 2,267 Washington, 462 Total 73,677 of whom 12,430 are slaves.

As most of these counties are very large, it is probable that subdivisions will continue to be made, as population increases.

Rivers.]

The River Ohio washes the north-western side of Kentucky, in its whole extent. Its principal branches, which water this fertile tract of country, are Sandy, Licking, Kentucky, Salt, Green, and Cumberland rivers. These again branch in various directions into rivulets of different magnitudes, fertilizing the country in all its parts. At the bottoms of these watercourses the lime-stone rock, which is common to this country, appears of a greyish colour; and where it lies exposed to the air, in its natural state, it looks like brown free-stone. On the banks of these rivers and rivulets, this stone has the appearance of fine marble, being of the same texture, and is found in the greatest plenty.

Sandy, Licking, and Kentucky rivers rise near each other, in the Cumberland mountains. Of these, Sandy river only breaks through the mountain. This river constitutes a part of the eastern boundary of Kentucky.

Licking river runs in a north-west direction upwards of 100 miles, and is about 100 yards broad at its mouth.

Kentucky is a very crooked river, and after running a course of more than 200 miles, empties into the Ohio by a mouth 150 yards broad.

Salt river rises at four different places near each other. The windings of this river are curious. The four branches, after a circuitous course round a fine tract of land, unite; and after running about fifteen miles, empty into the Ohio, twenty miles below the falls. Its general course is westward; its length about ninety miles; and at its mouth is eighty yards wide.

Green river pursues a western course upwards of 150 miles, and by a mouth eighty yards wide, falls into the Ohio, 120 miles below the rapids.

Cumberland river interlocks with the northern branch of Kentucky, and rolling round the other arms of Kentucky, among the mountains in a southern course, 100 miles; then in a south-western course for above 200 more; then in a southern and south-western course for about 250 more, finds the Ohio, 413 miles below the falls. At Nashville, this river is 200 yards broad, and at its mouth 300. The river in about half its course, passes through the territory south of the Ohio.

These rivers are navigable for boats almost to their sources, without rapids, for the greatest part of the year. Frequent rains in the latter end of the autumn produce floods in the Ohio, and it is an uncommon season when one of those floods does not happen 0053 506 happen before Christmas. If there is much frosty weather in the upper parts of the country, its waters generally remain low until they begin to thaw. But if the river is not frozen over, which is not very common, there is always water sufficient for boats of any size, from November until May; when the waters generally begin to subside; and by the middle of June, in most seasons, they are too low for boats above forty tons, and these must be flat-bottomed. The frost seldom continues so long as the middle of February, and immediately upon its breaking the river is flooded; this flood may in a degree subside, but for no length of time; and it is from that period until May, that the boats generally come down the river. The distance of descending is in proportion to the height of the water; but the average distance is about eighty miles in twenty-four hours, and from sixty to one hundred are the extremes; so that the mean time of going in a flat-bottomed boat from Pittsburgh to the rapids, is between eight and nine days, and about twenty days more to New Orleans; which will make a passage from Pittsburgh to that place nearly a month.

The little rivulets which chequer the country, begin to lessen in June, and quite disappear in the months of August, September, and October. The autumnal rains, however, in November replenish them again. The method of getting a supply of water in the dry season is by sinking wells, which are easily dug, and afford excellent water. The want of water in autumn is the great complaint. Mills, that may be supplied with water eight months in a year, may be erected in a thousand different places. Wind-mills and horse-mills may supply the other four months.

The banks of the rivers are generally high and composed of lime-stone. After heavy rains, the water in the rivers rises from 10 to 30 feet.

Springs.]

There are five noted salt springs or licks in this country; viz. the higher and lower Blue Springs, on Licking river, from some of which, it is said, issue streams of brinish water—the Big Bone lick, Drennon's licks, and Bullet's lick, at Saltsburgh. The last of these licks, though in low order, has supplied this country and Cumberland with salt, at twenty shillings the bushel, Virginia currency; and some is exported to the Illinois country. The method of procuring water from these licks is by sinking wells from 30 to 40 feet deep. The water drawn from these wells is more strongly impregnated with salt than the water from the sea. A strait road, 40 feet wide, has been cut from Saltsburgh to Louisville, 24 miles.

Face of the Country, Soil, and Produce.]

This whole country, as far as has yet been discovered, lies upon a bed of lime-stone, which in general is about six feet below the surface, except in the vallies, where the soil is much thinner. A tract of about twenty miles, along the banks of the Ohio, is hilly, broken land, interspersed with many fertile spots. The rest of the country is agreeably uneven, gently ascending and descending at no great distances. The angles of ascent are from eight to twenty-four degrees, and sometimes more. The vallies in common are very narrow, and the soil in them is very thin, and of an inferior quality; and that along the ascending ground is frequently not much better; for where you see a tree blown up, you find the roots clinging to the upper parts of the rock. The soil, on these agreeable ascents, (for they cannot be called hills) is sufficiently deep, as is evident from the size of the trees. The soil is either black, or tinged with a lighter or deeper vermilion, or is of the colour of dark ashes. In many places there are appearances of potter's clay, and coal in abundance. The country promises to be well supplied with wholesome, well-tasted water. In Nelson county, north-west of Rolling fork, a branch of Salt river, is a tract of about forty miles square, mostly barren, interspersed with plains and strips of good land, which are advantageous situations for raising cattle, as the neighbouring barrens; as 0054 507 3T as they are improperly styled, are covered with grass, and afford good pasturage. The lands east of Nolin Creek, a branch of Green river, are in general of an inferior quality; but the banks of Green river afford many desirable situations.

Towards the head waters of Kentucky river, which interlock with the waters of Cumberland and Sandy rivers, and the whole country eastward and southward as far as the Holstein river, is broken, mountainous, and almost impenetrable; and from the description given by hunters, it is much doubted whether it will ever be practicable to make a passable road from Kentucky across to Winchester, in Virginia, on the east side of the mountains, which, on a straight line, is not perhaps more than four hundred miles, and the way now travelled is six hundred. No country will admit of being thicker settled with farmers, who confine themselves to agriculture, than this.

Elkhorn river, a branch of the Kentucky, from the south-east, waters a country fine beyond description. Indeed, the country east and south of this, including the head waters of Licking river, Hickman's and Jessamine Creeks, and the remarkable bend in Kentucky river, may be called an extensive garden. The soil is deep and black, and the natural growth, large walnuts, honey and black locust, poplar, elm, oak, hickory, sugar tree, &c. Grape vines run to the tops of the trees; and the surface of the ground is covered with clover, blue grass, and wild rye. On this fertile tract, and the Licking river, and the head waters of Salt river, are the bulk of the settlements in this country. The soil within a mile or two of Kentucky river is generally of the third and south rates; and as you advance towards the Ohio, the land is poor and hilly.

Dick's river runs through a great body of first rate land, abounding with cane, and affords many excellent mill seats. Salt river has good lands on its head waters, except that they are low and unhealthy, but for twenty-five miles before it empties into the Ohio, the land on each side is level and poor, and abounds with ponds.

Cumberland river, so much of it as passes through Kentucky, traverses, some parts excepted, a hilly, poor country.

Green river overflows its banks a considerable way up, at the season when the Ohio swells, which is in April. This swell in Green river occasions several of its branches to overflow, and cover the low grounds with water, leaves and vegetable substances, which, in summer, become noxious and unhealthy. Its banks are fine and fertile. There is a great body of good land near the falls and rapids in the Ohio, called Bare Grass; but the climate is rendered unhealthy by ponds of stagnant water, which may be easily drained.

This country in general is well timbered. Of the natural growth which is peculiar to this country, we may reckon the sugar, the coffee, the papaw, and the cucumber tree. The two last are soft wood, and bear a fruit of the shape and size of a cucumber. The coffee tree resembles the black oak, and bears a pod, which incloses a seed, of which a drink is made not unlike coffee. Besides these, there is the honey locust, black mulberry, wild cherry, of a large size. The buck-eye, an exceedingly soft wood, is the horse chesnut of Europe. The magnolia bears a beautiful blossom, of a rich and exquisite fragrance. Such is the variety and beauty of the flowering shrubs and plants which grow spontaneously in this country, that in the proper season the wilderness appears in blossom.

The accounts of the fertility of the soil in this country have, in some instances, exceeded belief; and probably have been exaggerated. That some parts of Kentucky, particularly the high grounds, are remarkably good, all accounts agree. The lands of the first rate are too rich for wheat, and will produce 50 or 60, and in some instances, it 0055 508 1 it is affirmed, 100 bushels of good corn, an acre. In common, the land will produce thirty bushels of wheat or rye an acre. Barley, oats, cotton, flax, hemp, and vegetables of all kinds, common in this climate, yield abundantly. The old Virginia planters say, that if the climate does not prove too moist, few soils known will yield more or better tobacco. Experience has proved, that the climate is not too moist. Great quantities of this article have been exported to France and Spain, through New Orleans; and it is a well-known fact, that Philadelphia is a profitable market for the Kentucky planter, notwithstanding all the inconveniencies and expenses of re-shipment at New Orleans, under a Spanish government. What advantages then may not this country expect from a free navigation of the Mississippi, unrestrained by Spanish policy!

In the western territory is found all the variety of soil and climate necessary to the culture of every kind of grain, fibrous plants, cotton, fruits, vegetables, and all sorts of provisions. The upper settlements on the Ohio produce chiefly wheat, oats, barley, rye, Indian corn or maize, hemp, and flax. The fruits are, apples, pears, cherries, peaches, plums, strawberries, raspberries, currants, gooseberries, and grapes; of culinary plants and vegetables, there are turnips, potatoes, carrots, parsnips, cymbiline or squash, cucumbers, peas, beans, asparagus, cabbages, brocoli, celery, and sallads; besides which, there are melons and herbs of every sort. The provisions consist of beef, pork, mutton, veal, and a variety of poultry, such as ducks, Muscovy ducks, turkies, geese, dunghill fowls, and pigeons. Some considerable quantity of spirits distilled from rye, and likewise cyder, are sent down the river to a market, in those infant settlements where the inhabitants have not had time to bring orchards to any perfection, or have not a superfluity of grain to distil into spirits. The beef, pork, and flour are disposed of in the same way. The flax and hemp are packed on horses and sent across the mountain to the inland towns of Pennsylvania and Maryland.

In the rivers are plenty of buffalo, pike, and catfish, of uncommon size; salmon, mullet, rock, perch, garfish, eel, suckers, sunfish, &c. Shad have not been caught in the western waters.

Swamps are rare in Kentucky; and of course the reptiles which they produce, such as snakes, frogs, &c. are not numerous. The honey-bee may be called a domestic insect, as it is said not to be found but in civilised countries. This is confirmed by a saying, which is common among the Indians, when they see a swarm of bees in the woods—“Well, brothers, it is time for us to decamp, for the white people are coming.” Nevertheless bees, of late years, have abounded, to their amazement, even 200 miles N. and N. W. of the Ohio.

The quadrupeds, except the buffalo, are the same as in Virginia and the Carolinas.

Climate.]

Healthy and delightful, some few places in the neighbourhood of ponds and low grounds excepted. The inhabitants do not experience the extremes of heat and cold. Snow seldom falls deep or lies long. The winter, which begins about Christmas, is never longer than three months, and is commonly but two, and is so mild that cattle can subsist without fodder.

Chief Towns.]

Lexington, which stands on the head waters of Elkhorn river, is reckoned the capital of Kentucky. Here the courts are held, and business regularly conducted. In 1786 it contained about 100 houses, and several stores, with a good assortment of dry goods. It has greatly increased since, and contains about 900 inhabitants.

Washington, the shire town of Mason county, is the second town in this State, containing about 500 inhabitants. Leestown

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Leestown is west of Lexington, on the eastern bank of Kentucky river; it is regularly laid out, and is flourishing. The banks of Kentucky river are remarkably high, in some places 300 and 400 feet, composed generally of stupendous perpendicular rock; the consequence is, there are few crossing places; the best is at Leestown, which is a circumstance that must contribute much to its increase.

Louisville is at the rapids of the Ohio, in a fertile country, and promises to be a place of great trade; it has been made a port of entry. Its unhealthiness, owing to stagnated waters at the back of the town, has considerably retarded its growth. Besides these, there is Beardstown, in Nelson county; and Harrodsburg, in Mercer county; both on the head waters of Salt river. Danville, Boonsborough, and Granville, are also increasing towns.

Population and Character.]

The population of this State in 1790, is given in the preceding table. In 1783, in the county of Lincoln* only, there were on the militia rolls 3570 men, chiefly emigrants from the lower parts of Virginia. In 1784, the number of inhabitants were reckoned at upwards of 30,000. It is asserted, that at least 20,000 migrated here in the year 1787. These people, collected from different States, of different manners, customs, religions, and political sentiments, have not been long enough together to form an uniform national character. Among the settlers there are gentlemen of abilities, and many genteel families, from several of the States, who give dignity and respectability to the settlement. They are, in general, more regular than people who generally settle new countries.

* The country, it is to be remembered, has since been divided and subdivided.

Religion.]

The Baptists are the most numerous religious sect in Kentucky, There are several large congregations of Presbyterians, and some few of other denominations.

Constitution.]

By the Constitution of this State, formed and adopted in 1792, the powers of government are divided into three distinct departments; legislative, executive, and judiciary. The legislative power is vested in a General Assembly, consisting of a senate and house of representatives; the supreme executive, in a governor; the judiciary, in the supreme court of appeals, and such inferior courts as the legislature may establish. The representatives are chosen annually by the people; the senators and governor are chosen for four years, by electors appointed for the purpose; the judges are appointed, during good behaviour, by the governor, with advice of the senate. An enumeration of the free male inhabitants, above twenty-one years old, is to be made once in four years. After each enumeration, the number of senators and representatives is to be fixed by the legislature, and apportioned among the several counties according to the number of inhabitants. There can never be fewer than 40, nor more than 100 representatives. The senate at first consisted of eleven members; and for the addition of every four representatives, one senator is to be added. The representatives must be twenty-four years old; the senators twenty-seven; the governor thirty, and all of them must have been inhabitants of the State two years. The governor can hold no other office. The members of the General Assembly none but those of attorney at law, justice of the peace, coroner, and in the militia. The judges, and all other officers, must be inhabitants of the counties for which they are appointed. The governor, members of the General Assembly, and judges, receive stated salaries out of the public treasury, from which no money can be drawn, but in consequence of appropriation by law. All officers take an oath of fidelity to discharge the duties of their offices, and are liable to impeachment for misconduct. Elective officers 0057 510 officers must swear that they have not used bribery in obtaining their elections. All free male citizens, twenty-one years old, having resided in the State two years, or in the county where they offer to vote, one year, have a right to vote for representatives, and for electors of senators and governor, and are privileged from arrest, in civil actions, while attending that business. The General Assembly meets on the first Monday in November in each year, unless sooner convened by the governor. Each house chooses its speaker and other officers, judges of the qualification of its members, and determines the rules of its proceedings, of which a journal is kept and published weekly, unless secrecy be requisite. The doors of both houses are kept open. The members of the legislature, while attending the public business, are privileged from arrests in civil actions, and may not be questioned elsewhere for any thing said in public debate. Impeachments are made by the lower house, and tried by the upper. All revenue bills originate in the house of representatives, and are amendable by the senate, like other bills. Each bill passed by both houses is presented to the governor, who must sign it if he approve it; if not, he must return it within ten days to the house in which it originated; if it be not returned, or if, when returned, it be re-passed by two thirds of both houses, it is a law without his signature. The governor has power to appoint most of the executive offices of the State; to remit fines and forfeitures, and grant reprieves and pardons, except in cases of impeachment; to require information from executive officers; to convene the General Assembly on extraordinary occasions, and adjourn them in case they cannot agree on the time themselves. He must inform the legislature of the state of the commonwealth; recommend to them such measures as he shall judge expedient; and see that the laws are faithfully executed. The speaker of the senate exercises the office of governor in case of vacancy. The legislature has power to forbid the farther importation of slaves, but not to emancipate those already in the State without the consent of the owner, or paying an equivalent. Treason against the commonwealth consists only in levying war against it, or in adhering to its enemies, giving them aid and comfort.

The declaration of rights asserts the civil equality of all; their right to alter the government at any time; liberty of conscience; freedom of elections, and of the press; trial by jury; the subordination of the military to the civil power; the rights of criminals to be heard in their own defence; the right of the people to petition for the redress of grievances, to bear arms, and to emigrate from the State. It prohibits unreasonable searches and seizures; excessive bail; confinement of debtors, unless there be presumption of fraud; suspension of habeas corpus writ, unless in rebellion or invasion; ex post facto laws; attainder by the legislature; standing armies; titles of nobility and hereditary distinction.

Literature and Improvements.]

The legislature of Virginia, while Kentucky belonged to that State, made provision for a college in it, and endowed it with very considerable landed funds. The Rev. John Todd gave a very handsome library for its use. Schools are established in the several towns, and in general regularly and handsomely supported. They have a printing-office, and publish a Weekly Gazette. They have erected a paper mill, an oil mill, fulling mills, saw mills, and a great number of valuable grist mills. Their salt works are more than sufficient to supply all their inhabitants, at a low price. They make considerable quantities of sugar from the sugar trees. Labourers, particularly tradesmen, are exceedingly wanted here.

Curiosities.]

The banks, or rather precipices, of Kentucky and Dick's river, are to be reckoned among the natural curiosities of this country. Here the astonished eye beholds 300 or 400 feet of solid perpendicular rock, in some parts, of the lime-stone kind, 0058 511 kind, and in others of fine white marble, curiously chequered with strata of astonishing regularity. These rivers have the appearance of deep artificial canals. Their high rocky banks are covered with red cedar groves.

Caves have been discovered in this country of several miles in length, under a fine lime-stone rock, supported by curious arches and pillars. Springs that emit sulphureous matter have been found in several parts of the country. One is near a salt spring in the neighbourhood of Boonsborough. There are three springs or ponds of bitumen near Green river, which do not form a stream, but empty themselves into a common reservoir, and when used in lamps, answer all the purposes of the best oil. Copperas and alum are among the minerals of Kentucky. Near Lexington are found curious sepulchres full of human skeletons. It has been asserted, that a man, in or near Lexington, having dug five or six feet below the surface of the ground, came to a large flat stone, under which was a well of common depth, regularly and artificially stoned.

History.]

Though the war which took place between England and France in the year 1755, terminated so gloriously for Great Britain, and securely for the then colonies, still we remained ignorant of the whole of the fine country lying between the high hills, which rise from Great Sandy river, approximate the Allegany Mountain, and extending down the Ohio to its confluence with the Mississippi, and back to those ridges of mountains which traverse America in a S. W. by W. direction, until they are lost in the flat lands of West Florida. However, certain men, called Long Hunters, from Virginia and North Carolina, by penetrating these mountains, (which ramify into a country 200 miles over from E. to W. called the wilderness,) were fascinated with the beauty and luxuriance of the country on the western side.

A grant had been sold by the Six Nations of Indians to some British commissioners at Fort Stanwix in 1768, which comprehended this country, and which afforded the Americans a pretext for a right to settle it; but those Indian natives who were not concerned in the grant, became dissatisfied with the prospect of a settlement which might become so dangerous a thorn in their side, and committed some massacres upon the first explorers of the country. However, after the expedition of Lord Dunmore in 1774, and the battle at the mouth of the Great Kanhaway, between the army of Colonel Lewis and the confederated tribes of Indians, they were in some measure quiet. The Assembly of Virginia began now to encourage the peopling that district of country called Kentucky, from the name of a river which runs nearly through the middle of it. This encouragement consisted in offering 400 acres of land to every person who engaged to build a cabin, clear a piece of land, and produce a crop of Indian corn. This was called a settlement right. Some hundreds of these settlements were made; but, in the mean time, Mr. Richard Henderson, of North Carolina, a man of no inconsiderable abilities, and more enterprise, had obtained a grant from the Cherokee tribe of Indians for this same tract of country; and though it was contrary to the laws of the land for any private citizen to make purchases of the Indians, still Mr. Henderson persevered in his intention of establishing a colony of his own. He actually took possession of the country, with many of his followers, where he remained pretty quiet, making very little improvement, Virginia being at that time entirely occupied with the war, which had commenced between Great Britain and the confederated States. Most of the young men from the back settlements of Virginia and Pennsylvania, who would have migrated to this country, having engaged in the war, formed that body of men, called Rifle-men; which not only checked the growth of the settlement, but so dried up the sources of emigration, that it was near being annihilated by the fury of the savages. The

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The legality of Mr. Henderson's claim was investigated by the State of Virginia in 1781; and though there could be no sort of equity in it, he having acted in contempt of the State, the legislature, to avoid feuds or disturbances, (for Henderson still had influence) agreed, as an indemnification for the expense and trouble he had been at, that he should be allowed a tract of country 12 miles square, lying in the forks of the Ohio and Green rivers: a tract of his own chusing.

Virginia gave farther rewards and encouragements at this time to the first settlers, for the perils they had undergone in the establishment of their settlement, of a tract of 1000 acres, called a pre-emption right, to be laid off adjoining to the settlement of 400 acres, the grantee only paying office-fees for the same. After this period, (i.e. 1781) a land office was opened by the State, granting warrants for any quantity of unlocated land, upon condition of certain sums of the depreciated continental currency being paid into the treasure, as so much for 100 acres. The great plenty and little value of this money soon caused the whole country to be located, which was one of the material causes of its rapid population.

It was necessary, in the management of this business, that care should be taken to prevent that perplexity and litigation, which the vague manner in which that business was executed in many instances would necessarily produce. For this purpose, three principal surveyors were appointed, who were to lay or cause to be laid off, by their deputies, the different locations within the limits of their districts: this being done, and recorded in the office, the original survey was sent to the deputy register's office, there to be recorded; from which it was sent to the principal register's office at Richmond, the seat of government, there to remain twelve months, in order that any person having a claim, by virtue of a prior location, might have an opportunity to enter a caveat, and prevent a surreptitious grant from issuing. Commissioners were also sent to adjust the claims of settlement and pre-emption rights; by which means order was preserved, and the government of a district of country, detached, and separated at that time more than 200 miles from any other settled country.

The years 1783 and 1784 brought out vast numbers of emigrants from all parts of America, particularly the latter year, when it was supposed that in Kentucky alone, not less than 12,000 souls became settlers; several Europeans from France, England, and Ireland, were among the number. In 1783, 1784, and 1785, great part of the country was surveyed and patented, and the people in the interior settlements pursued their business in as much quiet and safety as they could have done in any part of Europe. Court-houses were built in the different counties, and roads were opened for carriages, which seven years before had not been seen in the country. The only roads hitherto were for single horses.

In 1785, the district had grown so considerable from the great number of emigrants which had arrived, and that respectability which it had acquired produced a disposition in the inhabitants to become an independent State, and to be admitted as another link in the great federal chain. A convention was immediately formed by sending deputies from the different counties, who met at Danville, for the purpose of taking the matter into consideration; when it was determined, after some debating, to petition Virginia for that purpose. However, this business was procrastinated; for finding, though they might separate whenever they chose, yet that it was optional with the legislature of Virginia to recommend them to be taken into the federal government (which they were not likely to do, and which it was certain could not be done without,) they were content to remain as they were for that time. The

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The federal government in the course of the year 1785, undertook to lay off the country west of the Ohio, in such manner as would answer the purpose of selling the land, and setting the country; but, owing to a variety of causes, their progress was very slow. However, some land was surveyed in 1786 and 1787, and in the latter year a settlement was formed upon the Muskingum, which may be looked upon as the commencement of the American settlements upon the western side of the Ohio. In 1788 and 1789, some farther surveying was done; but little since has been transacted in those parts, except wars between the Indians and the settlers.